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B 


TRAVELS 


IN 


VARIOUS  COUNTRIES 


OP 


EUROPE  ASIA  AND  AFEICA 


BT 


E.  D.  CLARKE   LL.D. 


PART  THE  SECOND 

GREECE  EGYPT  ANJ>TH£  HOLY  LAND 


•         * 


SECTION  THE.SIjCONI* 


•  U     •  •  **•  .    *        <      ft  ■   « 


FOURTH  EDITION 


VOLUME   THE   SIXTH. 


LONDON 
PRINTED  FOR  T.  CADELL  AND  W.  DAVIES 

I*  TKB  BTRAXD 
BY    R.    WATTS   CROWN   COURT   TEMPLE   BAR. 

MDCCCXVII. 


•    »       • 


•  ••    • 

•  •    •• 


•      • 


»  »     •    •         •  w_  *  •  •  • 

-    «     •  ■   •      •    7^       *   • 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 

PAST  II.    SECT.  II. 

VOLUME  THE  SIXTH. 
REMARKS  ON  THE  LIBRARIES  OF  GREECE 

BY  THE  REV.  22.  WALPOLE. 

With  an  aecemmt  of  the  Catalogue  of  Books  now  preserved  in  the 
M OXA8TBBY  ef  Pathos,  at  it  was  copied/or  the  Marquis  or  Slioo. 

»■#.      .-»■•      ■  •   • 

P.  27.      '       %m      , 
COS  TO  ?AT#LQ8r:";:      :\  , 

Messenger  from  the  VizUr~B(Uani&:fa'^ir&*-Casiot 
vessel— Antient  custom  of  singing  'Vespers— Leira  and 
Lepsia  —Arrival  at  Patmos—  Critical  situation  of  a  part  of 
the  French  army — Monastery  of  St.  John — Library  — 
Ignorance  of  the  Monks— Manuscripts — Discovery  of  the 
Patmos  Plato — Other  valuable  Works — Manuscript  in  the 
hand-writing  of  Alexias  Comnenas — State  of  the  island — 
Antient  Medals — Extensive  prospect — Holy  Grotto — Din- 
ner given  by  the  French  Officers— Bart helemy—  Women  of 
the  island — Bells — Stratagem  for  obtaining  the  Greek 
Manuscripts— Fruitless  attempt  to  leave  the  island— View 
of  Samoa— Icaria — Western  port  of  Patmos — Geological 
phamomena — Plants  and  animals— 'Marble  Cippi— Depar- 
ture from  Patmos — Prognostics  oj  Greek  mariners. 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 

CHAP.  II. 

P.  82. 
PATMOS  TO  PAR08. 

Gale  of  wind — Vessel  driven  to  the  South  of  Naxos — Panormo 
— Independent  Shepherds — Appearance  of  the  island — 
Minerals — Naxian  Boccaze — Town  of  Naxos — Manu- 
scripts— Inhabitants — Population  —  Antiquities — Inscrip- 
tions— Sculpture  —  Medals  —  Gems  —  Colossal  Statue — 
Temple  of  Bacchus — Other  Ruins — Smeriglio — Arrival  at 
Paroa— Par echi a —  Castle — Inscriptions — Ship  stranded 
— Antiparos —  Grotto — its  possible  origin — mode  of  descent 
'—description  of  the  interior —Nature  of  the  Stalactites — 
manner  of  their  deposition — Paradoxical  Phamomena — 
Crystallization  of  Alabaster — Arragonite — Visit  of  the 
Yreiteh\A7flb<%$S4a\fr^0}wMs^Antient  Quarries  of  Parian 
Marble — Marpe88U8— Cawie  of  the  prevalence  of  Parian 
Marble  i n  Grecian  [Sculpture — Marvellous  skill  of  the 
Antients  19-wof  kitty  tlic  Quarries — Bas-relief—Explana- 
tion of  &J&yerij#ffi^Qiigin  of  the  work — Evidence  it 
affords — Theory  of  Crystallization. 

CHAP.  III. 

P.  146. 
PAROS  TO  ATHENS. 

Voyage  to  Syros — Affecting  Interview — Syra — Plants  — 
Remains  of  Antient  Customs— Gems  and  Medals — State 
of  the  Island — Voyage  to  Gyarus — Hydriots— Wretched 
condition  of  Jura — Voyage  to  Zia — Cartheea — Ravages, 
committed  by  the  Russians — Ruins  of  Ioulis — Medals — 
Hospitality   of  the   Modern   Greeks — Antient  Dances  — 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OP  CONTENTS. 

Produce  ofZi& — Minerals — The  Author  sails  for  Athens — 
View  near  the  mouth  of  the  Sinus  Saronicus — Sunium — 
Temple  o/'Minerva  Sunias — Anecdote  of  a  Naval  Officer — 
Patrocleia— Other  Islands  in  the  Saronic  Gu/pA—  Calaurea 
— Albanians — Elimbd^~First  Sight  of  Athens — Zoster 
Promontory— Doubtful  Story  o/Minerva's  Statue— Arri- 
val at  the  Pireeens  — Approach  to  Athens. 


CHAP.  IV. 

P.  196. 
ATHENS. 

Origin  of  the  fabulous  Contest  between  Neptnne  and  Minerva 
— Antient  Sepulchral  Monument — Excavationsat  Athens — 
View  of  the  Cecropian  Citadel — Funereal  Aspect  of  the  City 
—  Objects  in  the  perspective  State  of  the  Antiquities — 
Interesting  Relic — Remarks  upon  entering  Athens — Guil- 
letiere— Ascent  of  the  Acropolis — Relic  o/Phidian  Sculpture 
— Adytum  of  Pan— 'hpa  of  the  Greeks—  Portable  Shrines 
— Statue  of  Pan — Celebrated  Artist — Spoliation  of  the 
Temples — Comparison  between  the  Grecian  and  Roman 
Buildings — Athenian,  Posidonian,  and  iEginetan  Architec- 
ture— Cause  of  the  Injury  sustained  in  the  Sculpture  of  the 
Parthenon — Splendid  Representation  of  the  Panathensea — 
Description  of  the  Work — The  Cothurnus,  and  Petasus  or 
Pileus — Practice  of  gilding  and  painting  Sta  tues — Marbles 
used  in  the  Acropolis — Singular  Construction  of  the  Erec- 
theum — Of  the  Prytaneum — Temples  of  Pandrosus  and 
Minerva  PoKna—OftJie  Olive,  and  Well— Propylsea-  Walls 
of  the  Acropolis —Odeum  of  Regilla — General  Description 
of  the  Theatres  of Greece  -  Areopagus— Temple  of 'Theseus. 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 


CHAP.  V. 

P.  207. 
ATHENS. 

Temple  of  the  Winds—  Unknown  Structure  of  the  Corinthian 
Order — The  Bazaar — Population  and  Trade  of  Athens— 
State  of  the  Arts  -  Manufacture  of  Pictures — Monochromatic 
Painting  of  the  Antients —  Terra-Cottas —  Origin  of  Painting 
and  Pottery  among  the  Greeks — Medals  and  Gems — 
Explanation  of  the  Amphora,  as  a  symbol  upon  Athenian 
Coins — Ptolemseum — A  ntient  Marbles— Thes6um — Grave 
o/Tweddell — Description  of  the  Temple — AreopaguB — 
Piraean  Gate — Pnyx — Monument  on  the  Museum — Antient 
Walls — Theatre  and  Cave  of  Bacchus — Monument  of 
Thrasyllus — Choragic  Pillars — Remarkable  Inscription — 
Origin  of  the  Crypt — Ice  Plant  in  its  native  state — Arch  of 
Hadrian — its  origin — when  erected — Temple  of  Jupiter 
Olympius — Discordant  accounts  of  this  building — reasons 
for  the  name  assigned  to  it — IHbsus — -Town/am  Callirhoe — 
False  notions  entertained  of  the  river — Stadium  Panathe- 
naicum — Sepulchre  of  Herodes — Hadrian's  Reservoir — 
Mount  Anchesmus —  View  from  the  summit. 

CHAP.  VI. 

P.  836. 
ATHENS. 

Excavations — Great  Antiquity of tfte  Athenian  Wells— Curious 
Inscription  upon  a  Terra- cot ta  Lamp—Excursion  to  Hy- 
mettus— Temple  of  Diana— Monastery — Visit  to  the  sum- 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 

mit  of  the  Mountain— Plants — Panoramic  Survey  of  the 
Country— Return  to  Athens— Singular  Adventure  that 
befel  the  Author— Description  of  the  Ceremonies  of  the 
Bath,  as  practised  by  the  Turkish  and  Grecian  Women- 
Further  Observations  in  the  Acropolis — Inscriptions — 
Specimen  of  Cadmasan  Characters— Additional  Remarks 
upon  thePuihenon—Efect  of  Sun-set  behind  the  Mountains 
of  Peloponnesus. 


CHAP.  VII. 

P.  374. 

PELOPONNESUS. 

Departure  from  Athens  for  the  Peloponnesus — Extraordinary 
talents  o/TzCahnuck  Artist — Further  account  of  the  Pirseeus 
— the  "  Long  Walls" —  Tomb  of  Themistocles— its  situation 
— remains  of  this  monument — Objects  visible  in  passing  the 
Gulph — J£gina — Temple  of  Jupiter  Panhellenius— Anti- 
quities near  to  the  port — Anchestri  Isle — Ignorance  of  the 
i>t/o*-rEpi&da — Greek  Medals— AibutxiB  Andrachne— Ap- 
pearance of  the  Country — Ligurib  —  Description  of  a  Conak , 
or  Inn—  Coroni — Cathedra  of  a  Greek  Theatre — Hieron 
— Mountains — Temple  of  jSSsculapius — Stadium — Archi- 
tectural Terra-cottas — Temple  of  the  Corypheean  Diana— 
Temple  o/ Apollo — Circular  edifice — Theatre  o/*  Polycletus 
— Epidaurian  serpent — Aspect  of  the  Coilon — Perfect  state 
of  the  structure — Dimensions  and  detailsof  the  parts — Jour- 
ney to  Nauplia— Lessa  —Dorian  and  Egyptian  antiquities — 
Arachnaeus  Mons  —  Cyclopea  —  Nauplia —  House  of  the 
Consul*  •Turkish  Gazette — Public  rejoicings— AthleUe — 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 

Pyrrhica—  Papulation  —Air — Commerce — Gipsies — Cha- 
racteristic features  of  Grecian  Cities — Tiryns — Celtic  and 
Phoenician  Architecture — Origin  of  the  Cyclopean  style — 
History  ofTiryxiB — character  of  its  Inhabitants. 


CHAP.  VIII. 

P.  447. 
PELOPONNESUS. 

Further  inquiry  into  the  Originof  Tiryns— Road  to  Argos — 
River  Inachus — Plants  and  Minerals — Argos—  Terra-cot ta 
Vases— -Ignorance  of  their  sepulchral  use — Hecate* 8  Supper 
— Lectisternium — Probable  cause  of  depositing  Earthen 
Vessels  in  Sepulchres — Origin  of  the  Custom — Population  of 
Argos — Antiquities —  Theatre— Hieron  of  Venus — Diras— 
Cyclopes — Alcyonian  Lake  —Oracular  Shrine — Other  re- 
mains of  the  city —  Character  of  the  antient  Argives —  View 
of  the  Argive  Plain — Fabulous  Contest  between  Neptune 
and  Juno— Hieroa  of  Ceres  Mysias — Antiquity^  of  fictile 
materials  in  building — Mycenae — State  of  the  Ruins — 
Extraordinary  Sepulchre — not  the  Treasury  of  Atreus — 
Heroum  of  Perseus — Sophocles — internal  evidence  of  his 
having  visited  the  spot—  of  the  A£/xa  and  HpoicvXaia — Tomb 
of  Agamemnon — Interior  of  the  Tumulus — Enormous  lintel 
—  Use  of  the  triangular  cavity  above  the  entrance— Inner 
chamber—  Leonine  Gate — Dimensions  and  description  of 
the  Propylaea — Mythological  Symbols — Consecrated  Gates 
— Of  the  Pylagorae — ^Egyptian  characteristics— Worship 
of  the  Sun —  Walls  of  Mycenae. 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 


CHAR  IX. 

P.  510. 

PELOPONNESU8. 

Journey  to  Nemea — Defile  of  Tretus—  Cave  of  the  Nemesean 
Lion — Fountain  of  Archemorus— Temple  of  the  Nemeeean 
Jupiter — Albanians — Monument  of  Lycurgus  —  Nemeeean 
River — Apesas — Sicyonian  Plain  —  Sicyon  —  Theatre— 
Prospect  from  the  Coilon — Stadium — Temple  of  Bacchus— 
Other  Antiquities — Medals — Paved  Way — Fertility  of  the 
Land — Corinth — Fountain  of  the  Nymph  Pirene—  Sisy- 
pheum — Temple  of  Octavia — Visit  to  the  Governor — 
Odeum —  Climate  of  Corinth. 


CHAP.  X. 

P.  660. 
PELOPONNESUS  AND  ATTICA. 

Visit  to  the  Isthmus — Remains  of  the  Antient  Vallum— Canal 
o/*Nero— Lechseum — Cinerary  receptacles  in  the  rochs — 
Remarkable  Tumulus  —  Acrocorinthus  —  Ascent  to  the 
Citadel — Hiera— Prospect  from  the  Summit — Hexamillia — 
Discovery  of  the  Town  of  Isthmus — Port  Schoenus — Tern- 
pie  o/'Neptune — Theatre — Stadium — Sepulchre  o/Talaemon 
—  Trees  from  which  Victors  in  the  Isthmia  were  crowned 
— Extraordinary  Mart  for  Grecian  Medals — Dress  of  the 
Levant   Consuls— Pandaan    Horn — Cenchreae— Bath  of 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 

Helen — Convangee  — Cromyon — Manners  of  the  Peasant* 
— Scironian  Defile— Boundary  between  Peloponnesus  and 
Hellas— KAKH  2KAAA— Entrance  of  Hellas—  Causes  of 
the  celebrity  of  Megara — The  modern  town — Inscriptions 
— Journey  to  Eleusis  —  Kerata — Eleusinian  Plain — Acro- 
polis of  Eleusis—  Marble  Torso— The  Flowery  Well — 
Aqueduct  —Temple  of  Ceres — Statue  of  the  Goddess — Su- 
perstition of  the  Inhabitants —Inscription —Sudden  de- 
parture for  Athens — Via  Sacra — Fast  extent  of  Antient 
Thrace — The  Rh&ti — Eleusinian  Cephissus — Salt  Lake— 
Defile  of  Daphne — The  Rock  called  Poecile — Temple  of 
Venus — Monastery  of  Daphne  — Hieron  of  Apollo—  View 
of  Athens  at  sunset — Athenian  Cephissus — Site  of  the 
Academy — Arrival  at  Athens — Negotiation  with  the  Wai- 
wode — Return  to  Eleusis — Method  devised  for  removing 
the  Statue  of  Ceres — Difficulties  encountered— Success  of 
the  undertaking — Further  account  of  Eleusis — Long 
Walls— Of  the  Eharian  and  Thriasian  Plains — Temples  of 
Triptolemus,  o/*  Neptune,  and  of  Diana  Propylaea — Temple 
of  'Ceres — Port  of  Eleusis  —Antient  Theatre — Acropolis — 
Return  to  Athens. 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 


Appendix,  No.  I. 

P.  631. 

Temperature  of  the  Atmosphere,  according  to  Diurnal  Ob' 
serration  made  during  the  Journey ;  with  a  corresponding 
Statement  of  the  Temperature  in  England  during  the  same 
period. 


No.  II. 

P.  637.  - 

Names  of  Places  visited  in  the  Author**  Route. 


LIST 

OF 

EMBELLISHMENTS  AND  VIGNETTES 

IN  VOLUME  THE  SIXTH. 

TBI   TIOMITTES   ABE    ENO BATED   ON   WOOD,   BT   BEANS  TON. 

CHAP.  I. 

Pafe 

Map  of  Patmos ;  altered  from  Tournefart     ....        27 

CHAP.  II. 

Map  of  Parot,  Antiparos,  &c.  from  the  Voyage  Pitto- 
resque  de  la-Ghrlce 27 

CHAP.  III. 

The  First  Sight  of  Athens,  seven  leagues  distant,  as  pre- 
sented to  persons  sailing  from  Sunium  to  the  Piraeus ; 
sketched  by  the  Author 146 

CHAP.  IV. 

Plan  of  Athens,  from  a  Drawing  by  W.  Wilhins,  jun. 
Esq ,     .  196 

CHAP.  V. 

Charon  with  Mercury,  conducting  a  Female  Soul  to  the 
Shades  ;  designed  from  an  antient  Scarabesan  Intaglio 
by  Angelica  Clarke 267 

CHAP.  VI. 

View  from  the  Parthenon  at  Sunset ;  from  a  Drawing 
made  by  the  Author 336 

Headlands  viewed  from  the  Summit  of  Hymettus,  bearing 
South  and  by  West ;  after  the  Author's  Outline  done 
upon  the  spot 354 


,-     EMBELLISHMENTS  AND  VIGNETTES. 

CHAP,  VII. 

Pace 

Rained  Stractare  now  occupying  the  Site  of  the  Temple 
of  Apollo,  upon  Mount  Cynortium,  in  the  Hieron  of 
^Esculapius,  in  Epidauria ;  from  a  Drawing  made 
by  the  Anthor  on  the  spot 374 

CHAP.  VIII. 

Propybea  of  Mycence ;  from  a  Drawing  by  Sir  William 

Oell 447 

Terra-Cotta  Vessels  found  in  the  Sepulchre  of  Pelopon- 
nesus; designed  from  the  Originals  by  Angelica 
Clarke ;  etched  by  Elizabeth  Byrne      .  to  face  p.  458 

CHAP.  X, 

Map  of  the  Isthmus  of  Corinth :  shewing  the  Site  of  the 
Isthmian  Solemnities,  the  Ancient  Vallum,  the  Canal 
of  Nero,  &c. ;  from  an  original  Survey  made  by  the 
Author • 560 


REMARKS 


ON 


THE  LIBRARIES  OF  GREECE, 

BY 

THE  REV.  R.  WALPOLB,  M.A. 


WITH   AN   ACCOUNT  OF  THE 

CATALOGUE  OF  BOOKS  NOW  PRESERVED  IN  THE 
MONASTERY  OF  PATMOS ; 

AS  IT  WAS  COPIED  FOR  THB  MARQUIS  OF  8LIOO 


These  Remark*  of  Mr.  Walpolb  being  too  long  to  be  inserted  in  the 
Note*,  among  the  Extracts  from  his  MS.  Journal,  the  Author  has 
prefixed  them  as  an  appropriate  Introduction  to  this  Volume. 


m+>+*0^+*>*^im 


The  names  of  Nicholas  the  Fifth,  of  Francis  the 
First,  of  some  of  the  Medici  family,  of  Bessarion, 
Busbech1,  and  Peiresc,  are  held  in  just  esti- 
mation by  the  lovers  of  ancient  literature.  By 
their  means  the  Libraries  of  Europe  have 
been  furnished  with  great  numbers  of  valuable 
Manuscripts,  collected  with  cost  and  labour,  in 
different  parts  of  the  Levant.  The  first  of  these 
persons  laid  the  foundation  of  the  Vatican 
Library,  and  supplied  it  with  many  Manu- 
scripts from  Greece.  From  the  same  country, 
Francis  the  First,  at  the  exhortation  of  Budceus, 


(1)  In  this  manner  he  writes  his  own  name,  always.    Lamb.  1.  i.  99. 
*  1.  xi.  addit.  p.  1007. 

VOL.  VI.  B 


ON    THE    LIBRARIES    OF    GREECE. 

procured  many  also :  particularly  from  Mount 
Athos.  The  exertions  of  the  Medicean  family 
are  familiar  to  every  one.  Beesarion,  who  died 
in  1483,  had  made  a  collection  of  Manuscripts 
at  the  expense  of  30,000  crowns ;  and  his  own 
account  of  his  exertions  in  the  cause  of  Greek 
letters  is  worthy  of  notice1.  The  Manuscripts 
purchased  by  Bus  beck,  during  his  embassy,  are 
known  to  every  scholar,  from  the  account  given 
of  them  by  Lambecius.  Many  also  were  obtained 
in  the  East  by  those  whom  Peiresc*  had  sent  out ; 
they  visited  Cyprus,  Egypt,  and  Constantinople ; 
and  in  the  first  of  these  places,  portions  of  Poly- 
bius  and  Nicolaus  Damasceiius  were  found3. 


(1)  Cffitet  hm,  non  'tarn  magnum  uumerum  librorum  quam  opti- 
mos  et  excellentes,  deque  singulis  solummod6  unum  exemplum  studui 
colligere,  unde  erenit,  ut  fere  omnia  volumins  qme  in  roinis  universe 
Grttciffi  remanserant  Integra,  et  que  rlx  alibi  reperiuntur,  congeeae- 
rim."     Cam  Op.  Sub.  Cent.  3. 

(2)  Io  1631.    See  his  Life  by  Gassendi. 

(3)  At  many  Manuscripts  bad  been  collected,  at  vast  expense,  in 
Greece,  for  the  Library  at  Bud  a  (destroyed  by  tbe  Turks  in  1256)  we 
ougbt  not  to  omit  mentioning  it.  Alexander  Brasticanus  had  seen  in 
it  the  whole  of  Hyperidet  with  Scholia,  the  Works  of  many  of  the 
Greek  Fathers,  and  of  the  Classical  Writers.  Prom  this  Library 
Issued  parts  of  Polybiu*  and  Diodorus  Siculus.  A  Manuscript  of 
Heliodorut,  from  which  was  taken  the  first  edition  of  the  jEth  topics, 
was  found  by  a  soldier,  and  brought  to  Vincentius  Obsopmu* .-  it  be- 
longed to  this  Library.  Neander  thus  speaks  of  the  collection  :  "  Ex 
media  Grsecia  intestiniandis  sumptibus  emerat  Matthias  Corvinus 
rex."    Eput.p.  10. 


ON   THE    LIBRARIES   OF    GREECE. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  Constantinople  and 
At  has  have  contributed  the  greatest  number  of 
the  Manuscripts  we  possess  in  different  parts 
of  Europe.  There  were  monasteries  full  of 
learned  men  at  Byzantium,  to  a  late  period ;  arid 
every  monastery  had  its  library.  The  Turks, 
on  their  conquest,  did  not  occasion  that  indis- 
criminate destruction  which  idle  declamation 
had  sometimes  imputed  to  them.  Mahomet  the 
Second  secured  the  Library  of  the  Greek  Em- 
perors, which  was  preserved  by  his  successors, 
until  it  was  destroyed  by  Amurat  IV,4  At  JBy- 
zantium,  Constantine  Lascaris  transcribed  many 
of  those  works  which  were  afterwards  placed 
in  the  Madrid  Library.  In  this  city  were 
procured  those  Manuscripts  which  were  left  to 
the  Escurial  Library  by  Hurt  ado  de  Mendoza  ; 
and  which  had  been  presented  to  him  by 
Soliman  the  Second.  Possevin  has  given  partial 
Catalogues  of  some  of  the  Libraries  at  Constan- 
tinople ;  and  a  traveller  in  1597  mentions  a  valu- 
able collection  which  he  had  seen  in  that  citv5. 

With  respect  to  Athos,  we  find  that  two  hun- 
dred  Manuscripts  are  deposited  in  one  library 


(4)  Ilirt.  de  l'Acad.  IV.    Jortin's  E.  II.  vol.  V. 
(6)  G.  Dtnua.    It.  Const.  71. 

b2 


ON    THE    LIBRARIES   OF   GREECE. 

alone1,  brought  from  the  monasteries  on  the 
mountain  ;  and  a  great  part  of  those  at  Moscow* 
had  been  collected  by  the  Monk  Arsenius  in 
Athos,  at  the  suggestion  of  the  Patriarch  Nicon. 

We  must  add  Thessaly,  Chios,  Corfu,  Crete, 
Cyprus,  Chalce,  (the  island  in  the  Propontis), 
Rhodes,  and  Epidauria,  as  places  which  have 
supplied  some  Manuscripts8.  We  should  have 
had  much  valuable  intelligence  concerning  the 
libraries  in  the  monasteries  of  Thessaly,  if  the 
life  of  Professor  Biornstahl  had  been  prolonged. 
He  had  visited  all  of  them  ;  and  had  resided 
many  days  at  Triecala,  for  the  express  purpose 
of  copying  a  Greek  Manuscript  belonging  to  a 
monastery.  Biornstahl  was  attacked  by  a  fever 
at  the  foot  of  Mount  Olympus :  here  he  was 
obliged  to  continue  ten  days,  without  medical 
assistance ;  and  was  then  taken  to  Salonica, 
where  he  died,  in  July  1779.4 

(1)  Prof,  to  the  Catalogue  of  the  Coislin.  Library. 

(2)  In  the  Library  of  the  Holy  Synod. 

(3)  See  the  following  references:  Diar  Ital.  of  Montfaucon;  Fabric. 
Bib.  Gr.  7.  241;  Fabrotu*  Not.  Basilicorum ;  Bib.  Coislin.  p.  178; 
Crusii  Turco-QriBe.  p.  498. 

(4)  From  a  Writer  of  the  date  1557,  we  have  an  important  notice 
respecting  a  Library  on  Mount  Olympus:  "Dicitur  adhue  hodie  in 
Olympo \  Monte  AJonasterium  reliquum  ease  thesauro  optimoram 
librorum  dives  ac  celebre."  Orat.  de  Stud.  Vet.  Phil,  inter  Melanc. 
DeClam. 


ON   THE    LIBRARIES    OP   GREECE. 

Notwithstanding  our  acquisitions  are  already 
great,  we  should  not  intermit  our  researches 
in  the  Levant.  Many  Manuscripts  may  be 
saved  by  them  from  destruction.  "  I  myself," 
says  Dr.  Covell,  "  have  seen  vast  heaps  of  Ma- 
nuscripts (for  I  never  found  them  on  shelves,  or 
in  good  order)  of  the  Fathers  and  other  learned 
authors,  in  the  monasteries  at  Mount  Athos,  and 
elsewhere,  all  covered  over  with  dust  and  dirt, 
and  many  of  them  rotted  and  spoiled5."  An 
inquiry  should  be  made  into  the  truth  of  what 
was  stated  to  Hemsterhusius  by  some  Greek?, 
"that  part  of  the  Comedies  of  Menander  was 
still  in  existence."  Application  might  be  made 
to  the  Greek  Nobles  of  the  Phanar,  many  of 
whom  are  versed  in  Antient  Greek,  and  who  are 
probably  the  possessors  of  some  valuable  Manu- 
scripts. Parts  of  the  First  Book  of  the  Demon- 
stratio  Evangelica  of  Eusebius  were  printed  by 
Fabricius*  from  a  Manuscript  belonging  to  Prince 
Mavrocordato ;  and  a  copy  of  the  Greek  Orators, 
now  in  England,  was  the  property  of  a  Greek 
Noble. 


(5)  VUlouom'i  account  of  the  destruction  of  Manuscript*  at  Vat  mot 
may  be  consulted.     Proleg.  to  Homer. 
(<i)  JuL  Pollux,  p.  1272,  Note. 
(7)  Delectus  Argumeotorum. 


8  ON.  THE    LIBRARIES   OP   GREECE. 

any  of  those  subjects  which  would  lead  us  to  a 
.knowledge  of  their  respective  dates. 

There  is  one   Manuscript  mentioned   in   it, 

concerning  which  it  is  not  impossible  to   feel 

more  than  common  curiosity  :  it  i?  one  of  Dio- 

dorus  Siculus.     By  an  accurate  inspection  of 

".'?  kr  we  should  learn,  whether  the  hopes,  which 

.     -tiave  been  more-thtftr'ouoe  entertained  of  the 

•     existence   of  the  lost'  books  of*  that   historian. 

•  ••T**4rtr  in   this  instance   also  to; be   disappointed1. 

.  H.'  Stephanies  had  heard*  that  the"  forty  books  of 

Diodorus  were  in  Sicily.    This  report  arose,  pijv? . 

bably,  from  Constantine  Lascaris  having  said  in 

Sicily,  that  he  had  seen  all  these  books  in  the 

Imperial  Library  at  Constantinople.    Lascaris 

•fled  frpmthis  city,  at  the  .<&ptqr£  qf .  ^  by  the 

Turks.     In  the  turbulence  and  confusion  of  that 

period,  the  entire  copy  to   which    he  *  referred 

•  *         -might  baveibden  lost,     "  DeUm*  ttKhrort&fem," 

.. ,  *  j  •Says    Smligphtf  quanta  #  jaetfura   h reton®  Tacta 

'.     -#.     et  amigstome  libqprum,  IlKys-.-.Bibliothecae,  prse- 

oertiin  quinque   iUorunr  'qui  -seqjuebantur   post 


-t. 


quintum*."     ;  £<.  .    -.. 


»>^ c^X 


\\)  Photim,  in  tlie  ninth  century,  perused  entire  Diodorus  Sigtlus. 
(2)  In  Euteb.  Qhr/to.  cid.idcccclxvh.  *     • 


•  f  •    *Z •• 


(    9    ) 


CATALOGUE   OF    BOOKS' 

IN 

THE  PATMOS  LIBRARY. 


A. 

Aristophanes.     Three  copies. 
Ammonius4.     Two  copies. 
Aristotle.     Various  copies. 
Apollonius  Rhodius. 

Exposition  of  John  Zonaras*  on  the  Kavovts  ava- 
arao-ifjioi  of  John  of  Damascus. 

A  nastasius  of  Sinai :  his  Questions  &  Answers6.  MS* 

*Aayia  dafidTcov,  with  an  Exposition  (perhaps  by 
M.  PselluB.)     See  Lamb.  Kb.  iii.  p.  77. 

Arrian. 

Anthology  of  Epigrams. 

*A\e£av8pov  rov  i£  airopprjTWV  ypafiftarifcrj. 

'Apxrjf  kcu  curias  7repl  t&v  Svo  e/tAcA^crtW  1  i.e. 
of  the  Greek  and  Roman  Church. 


(3)  It  has  not  been  thought  necessary  to  copy  the  title  of  every  one 
of  the  printed  books  mentioned  in  the  Catalogue  :  the  names  of  all  the 
Manuscript*  are  faithfully  transcribed. 

(4)  Ammonius,  son  of  Hermias,  master  of  John  Philoponut. 

(5)  Flourished  about  1190.    See  AUatius  de  Librit  Bccles.  Qretco- 
Paris.  1646. 

(6)  Died  699.     See  Lamb.  Comm.  L  r.  p.  92. 


10  CATALOGUB    OF    BOOKS 

'  jEsop. 
'AvOoXoyta  Xefje&p  8ta<f)6pa)v.     One  volume. 
Lilian. 
Panoplia'DogmaticaofEuthymiusZigabenus.MS. 

A7r0OT0XcK0l  KOU  OVVoSlKol  KOLVOVtS. 

Athanasius. 
Athenaeus,  Deipnosoph. 

*AXe£dv8pov  'Ioi/daiTca. 

'AfiaXdcla?  /cepay. 
Appian. 

'Afi<j)i\oxloiPj  MedoSiovy  kcu  *Av8p*ov  KprJTfis, 

olt  evpiaicofuva. 

'AvTODVlOV  ^aT7](f>6pOV  ypafJLflOLTlKT/. 

* Api0fl7)TllcfjS      OVVOTTTIKTI      €pfJL7]V€ld      M7raXai>OV 

(Balanus). 

A\€J-dv8pov.  9 

AvOos  xapiT(Dv4. 

'AaQdXrj?  oSrjyia  ttjs  Kara  X/)t0TOi>  -qOiKrjS  {fi>ij$ 

* AkoXovOIo.6  tt}?  ayuxs  Altar epiirqs. 


0)  See,  for  an  account  of  this  work,  Lmnbeciut,  1.  iii.  p.  108. 

(2)  Lamb.  1.  v.  p.  230. 

(8)  Amphilockius,  bishop  of  Iconium, died  393.  Andrtw,  anh bishop 
«f  Crete,  died  720. 

(4)  See  Crtiriia,  Turco-Grec.  222.  and  Du  Cange,  A  pp.  ad  Gloss.  Gr. 
in  v.  rptAog. 

(6)**  Praeet  et  official'  AtJtarcp4»*if  (Catherine) ;  sometimes  aspi- 
rated ;  at  other  times  with  a  letus,  as  in  Du  Cange,  i.  1 140 ;  who  also 
gives  Hctcaiherina,  in  Index  Auct. 


IN   THE    PATMOS   LIBRARY.  ll 

iEschines. 
Afiufjuov  irepi. 
'Aer/ou8  larpiKov. 
* ASap.  ZoipviKaftlov. 
*A8o\€o\ia  <f>iXo0€O9. 
'AXeijavSpeia?  Trepiypatyrj. 

*Avao-K€vr)  rrJ9  tov  TZoprepov  filfiXov.       (Refuta- 
tion of  a  Work  of  Voltaire.) 
'Ap/iovia  tepoy pawner). 

8. 
Basil.     Copies  of  different  parts  of  his  Works. 
Jir)(T(Tapic0vo9  ypafifJuiTiKT). 
The  Logic  of  Blemmides7.     MS. 
BoAcra/iWj'Off8  c^yiycriy  tg>v  'upcov  Kavovtov.  MS. 
Lexicon  of  Phavorinus. 
Lives  of  Saints.     • 

A  book  call  ed  the  Pastoral  Flute,  av\o$  7roifi€vuc6s. 
Hi&Xlov  Kakovpevov  Qrjtcapa?. 
A  small  MS.  of  Prayers. 
BAa^o?. 
BovXyaplas9  aitama. 

(6)  Born  nt  Amida  ( Diarbekr ) ;  and  wrote  between  the  yean  640 
anil  550.     Fab.  ix.  230. 

(7)  BUmmides  lived  in  the  middle  of  the  thirteenth  century.     His 
logic  vat  published  in  1006,  by  Wegelin. 

(8)  Theodore  Balsamon,  of  the  twelfth  century.  Cave.  Hit*.  Lit.  500. 

(9)  Of  Theophylact.    "  Achridis  In  Bulgaria  archiepiscopus  1070 
elarns  ;  qoem  inde  Bulgariwn  Tocant."    Fab.  B.  O.  vil.  580. 


12  CATALOGUE   OF    BOOKS 

r. 

Gregory  of  Nazianzus.     Various  copies. 

Holy  Scripture. 

Tepaaipov  fiXaxpv  els  ra  ptrecopoXoyLKoL      MS. 

Galen. 

Gregory  of  Nyssa. 

Tafipi^X1  (f>iXaS€\(f>ia9  irepl  (r\iarpua.TLK&v.     MS. 

Tprjyopiov  9Ko/>€<ri'ot/  Kara  Aarlucov.      MS. 

Treatises  of  Gerasimus. 

Harmony  of  Scripture. 

TopSioVy  on  6  Hawa?*  kou  6  Mcoap,€0   eio\v   6 

*  &vriyjHOTos.     MS. 
Grammar  of  Gaza4. 

A. 

Demosthenes. 

Dio,  and  Herodian. 

Psalms  of  David. 

Ai8a<TKaXlaf  8ca(f)6pcoy  ety  ra  Kara  Kvpiatcqv. 

Diogenes  Laertius. 

Aiapjavri}  pvcrlov.     (sic.) 


(1)  Gabriel  Severus,  metropolitan  of  Philadelphia;  "  a  bare-faced 
Metousiast."    Covell.  Rise  of  Transubstantiation. 
(9)  Coresius,  a  friend  •(  Goar.    Euchol.  678. 

(3)  "That  the  Pope  and  Mahomet  are  the  Antichrist."    Uaxac, 
"  the  Pope ;"  *a*ac9   "  a  priest." 

(4)  On  which  Erasmus  read  Lectures  at  Cambridge. 

(5)  Instructions  respecting  the  Lord's  Day. 


IN   THE   PATHOS    LIBRARY.  13 

Dositheus. 

Dionysius  the  Areopagite.     MS. 
Aiaraycu  ya/wv  ^afiovrjX  iraTpidp\ov. 
AiTjyTjcri?  ftepucrj  rijf  irdkaias  ioTOpubv  (sic,),  koll 
irporacLs  <f>i\o<r6<f)ov  inrep  (perhaps  ire  pi) 

TOV  0€O/JLO)(OV  'HpCoSoV.       MS. 

Old  and  New  Testament. 

AoyfuiTiKov  'laHivvovBeKKOvK&voTavTivoTroXcwf. 

The  Grammar  of  Daniel. 

E. 

Gospels. 

Eustathius. 

Epiphanios. 

Epictetus. 

Euclid.  „ 

Etymologicon. 

Eusebius. 

Encyclopaedia.     Four  volumes. 

Selections  from  different  Fathers. 

Euchologium. 

'TZijo/JLoXoyrp-aptov .     MS. 

Tract  on  Baptism. 

TerpcuevayytXtov . 


(6)  Vteeus,  or  Btceus,  patriarch  of  Ccmtantinople. 

(7)  A  Form  of  ConJewion,  and  Direction  to  Penitent*.    CoveU,  S0O. 

(8)  See  Dm  Cmm§t  in  ▼.  *{>ajji\*or. 


]4  CATALOGUE    OF    BOOKS 


Exposition  of  the  Apocalypse. 

'Eo/DroAoy/a. 
Euripides. 

'JbirUrKtyfytf  7rpcvfiaTiKOv  wpof  aaQevi}.     Visit   of 
a  Confessor  to  a  sick  person* 


Zonaras. 

Hesiod. 
Herod  i  an. 
Herodotus. 


Z. 


H. 


e 


Themistius1,  wept  (frvaucrjf. 

Theodoret. 

Tbeophrastus. 

Theocritus. 

Theodorus  Ptochoprodromus*. 

Theodorus's   (abbot  of  Studium8)   Catechetical 

Discourses. 
Theophylact. 

(1)  Bora  in  317,  in  Paphlagonia. 

(2)  Perhaps  one  of  the  Poems  of  this  Writer  (see  Vill.  A  nee.  Gr.  ii. 
243),  or  his  Exposition  of  sacred  Hymns.  See  Lamb.  1.  t.  p.  277.  He 
lired  in  the  beginning  of  the  twelfth  century. 

(3)  A  monastery  at  Constantinople.  Theodore  was  born  in  769.  "  11 
passe  pour  an  des  grands  Saints  de  ce  si£cle-la  parmi  Messieurs  les  'Ima- 
ginairet;  qall  me  soit  permis  de  me  servir  de  ce  terme,  mille  fois  plus  dome 
quo  celui  d'lconolatret."    Bayle  Rep*  de»  Let  tret,  Mars  1086. 


IN   THE    PATMOS    LIBRARY. 


15 


Qtarpov  ttoXltlkov. 
Theotoki. 
Thomas  Magister. 


I. 


John  Chry sos torn. 

Isidore's4  y,of  Dalmatia)  Letters. 

I socrates. 

John  of  Damascus5. 

Justin  (iaTopiKOi/). 

John  Philoponus,  wept  Koarpxynrouas* 

The  same,  eh  ra  'AvaAvrucd. 

Justin  Martyr. 

Justinian,  Kavove?  t&v  ayuov  AitootqXsov. 

John  Stobaeus. 

Julius  Pollux. 

Other  Treatises  of  John  Philoponus. 

Isaac7,  bishop  of  Nineveh ;  ra  tvpeOtvra  ajcnayriKa* 

Josephus. 

'lo-fiayX*  tcard.  MS.  "Against  Mahomedanism." 


(4)  u  One  of  the  most  valuable  men  of  the  fifth  century."  Jortin, 
B.H.11.U3. 

(5)  Died  760.    The  last  of  the  Greek  Fathers. 

(6)  8ee  the  remark  of  Lambechu  on  the  title  of  this  work,  lib.  i.  p.  199. 
The  Alexandrine  Grammarian  flourished  in  the  early  part  of  the  seventh 
century  after  ChrUt.  VotsUu  gives  a  different  date :  De  PhUotopk.  She. 
e.  17.  The  name  of  John  Philoponus  was  afterwards  assumed  by  Le  CUrc. 

(7)  Lived  in  the  sixth  century. 

(8)  Cantaautmus  wrote,  in  I860,  a  work  on  this  subject. 


16  CATALOGUE    OF    BOOKS 

John  of  Damascus. 

'lcodwov1  axoXcurriKOU  rjyov^ievov  *2iva  opovs. 

Hippocrates.     Aphorisms. 

K. 

KopvSaXeco?  irepi  ^vyr)9- 
The  Logic  of  the  same* 
Cyril. 
Coresius*. 

KaTOKov{jjvov  airoXoyia  Kara  Acltiixov. 

Callimachus. 

KAeofjLrjSovs  kvkXlkt)  Oecopia. 

KvpicucoSpofjuov*. 

Ka\Acypa(f)La. 

Clemens  Alexandrinus. 

A. 

Liturgies. 

Lucian. 

Lexica. 

Treatises  against  the  Roman  Church. 

M. 
Macarius.     Homilies. 

■  ■ti    t-       K-rmu     ^ ' ri       ^if  ^t^m— — ^M^^^^n      \\m       ~i   m-mi    imt 1 fc — i ■ 

(1)  John  Cttmacus,  called  Scholastics.    This  to  probably  bis  Life, 
written  by  Daniel,  monk  of  Raith. 
(3)  A  Ctmstantinopolitan  divine  ;  and  friend  of  Goar.    Buck.  678. 
(3)  See  Du  Camge,  Gloss.  Grwc.  p.  771. 1. 


IK    THE   PATMOS    LIBRARY.  17 

Michael  Psellus4  ei?  ra  (jberatfrwriKa.     MS. 
Macarius.     Various  treatises. 
Meletias  on  the  power  of  the  Pope. 

Mc'Ai;  Troirjrpubv  kvvia. 
Melissa*. 

Mtrecp/KW  irepi  eyxcipi&iov. 

fAayacar/  rod  rjXuxfiov  kyK&ymov  6*?  'AAelpurdpov 

^ifaXBurn).  Encomium  on  Prince  Ypsilante. 
Maximus  Planudes. 
Matthew  Blastares6. 
Meletius.     Geography. 

N. 
Nectarius7. 
Nicephorus  Gregoras. 

NofUKOv  fiacriXucov.     MS. 

NofiOKovoves*. 

o. 

(Ecumenius. 

Olympiodorus  eh  ra  fxereaypa  rov  'A/mototc'Aow. 

'OfirjpoKevrpa  kou  KtvTp5>vz$. 

(4)  Of  the  eleventh  century. 

(5)  Antonua  Melissa,  Ured  about  760.    Fab.  Bib.  Qrmc.  iz.  744. 
"  a  ttodio  eoUigeodi  MiXuwa,  sire  Apis,  dictas  est." 

(6)  Of  the  fourteenth  century. 

(7)  Patria  Cretensis,  defunctus  anno  1005.    Fab.  iz.  310. 

(8)  X4nn6.LTLp.51. 

(9)  Homerid  centones. 

VOL.  VI.  C 


18  CATALOGUE    OF    BOOKS 

n. 

Acts  of  Synods. 
Plutarch. 
Pausanias. 
Pindar. 

U6\€fW9  irVtVpUOLTlKOS. 

Polyaenus. 

TJonjTcoi'  tS>v  7ra\ouordr(ov  yecopyuta,  fiovKoXitca, 

KCU  yVCDfJUKGL. 

UareptKov.     MS. 
Ucrpa  aicavSaXov. 


'PrjTOpucr)  2koi/0ou. 
'PaiTioytoS  <rTTj\iT€V(ri9. 
'PcoAtVou  rofioi —  1 5. 

2. 

Catenae  Patrum  on  the  Psalms  and  Matthew. 

Sophocles. 

Suidas. 

*2vfi€(6v  QeaaoLkovucris. 

Simplicius. 

*2vvo8iko9  vo/to?. 
j£r)/ieu»o'€i9  8i8ax&v.     MS. 

(I)  Notes  on  Homilies. 


IN   THE    PATMOS    LIBRARY.  19 


Irvvrayfia*  Kara  dtyfjuoov. 
^vfMJHDPia  rf)9  ypaxfrfjs. 
1vv€<rlov  eirioToXapiov. 
Catena  Patrum  on  the  Octateuch. 


T. 


Tf    4 
xrniKov . 


<t>. 


Photius. 
Philo  Judaeus. 

X. 

Xpv&avOov  Nora/ax. 

XpioTo<f>6pov  €y\€t,pi8iov9  on  the  Procession  of 

the  Holy  Spirit. 
Chrysostom  on  the  Psalms. 


(2)  Respecting  this  controversy  (concerning  unleavened  bread),  see 
the  note  in  Lamb.  1.  iii.  p.  65. 

(3)  Propngnaculum  Fidel.     Tab.  B.  G.  viii.  86.    It  was  edited  at 
Paris  in  1658. 

(4)  Perhaps,  Tvxlkov  rfjc  iKKXtiaiaarixijc  aKoXovBiag,  &c.    ''The 
order  of  reading  the  service."    Lamb.  I.  r.  285. 

(5)  Treatise!  of  some  of  the  Fathers. 

c  2 


20  CATALOGUE    OF    MANUSCRIPTS 

Volumes  relating  to  the  Psalms, 

a. 

'ClfceWov  Kara. 


KATAAOrOS  r£v  Iv  BEMBPANAIS1  BIBAIQN. 

A. 

Canons  of  the  Holy  Apostles. 
Athanasius,  without  a  beginning. 

%Air6aro\os. 

%  Airopovfieva  rrj?  delay  ypa(f>r)9. 

Exposition  of  the  Acts  of  Apostles. 

Anastasius  of  Sinai. 

Canons3  of  the  Apostles  and  Fathers. 

The  Panoplia4  Dogmatica  of  Alexius  Comnenus. 


( 1 )  •'  A  more  common  form  among  the  later  Greeks,"  says  Salmashu, 
"  than  VLtftpp&vatc. 

(3)  Perhaps  the  work  of  Theodoret,  entitled  Gtot&ptjrov  u'c  rd 
irropa  riJQ  QitcLQ  ypafrjc :  or  from  Maximus,  who  died  In  662.  See  the 
first  volume  of  his  Works. 

(8)  See  Lamb.X.  ir.  p.  107. 

(4)  See  Fabricitu,  ?iii.  389.    Bib.  Gr. 


IN    THE   PATMOS    LIBRARY. 

The  Exposition5,  by  Zonaras,  of  the  Canones,  or 
Sacred  Hymns,  of  Joannes  Damascenus. 

'AjTOOTO\0€lKiyY€\lOV*. 

B. 

HcuriXeuov  ircpl,  avapypv. 

HaaiXeiov  tov  fieyaXov  Soy/mrucr/  iravorirXia. 

Lives  of  Saints. 

Basil.     9  vols. 

Basil  on  the  Hexaemeron.     2  vols. 

The  same  on  the  Psalms.     2  vols. 

The  same  on  Isaiah. 

The  Ascetica7  of  the  same. 

BovXyapia? .     2  vols. 

JitfiXiov  Tovptcitcov. 

r. 

Tprfyopiq?  t$  0€o\6y<p  oyoXia  €iy  to    "  iraXiv 

'Ir/covs*  KOU  €19  to  "  X^**  ^^  ^OLfiirpav. 
Of  the  same  author.     9  vols. 


(5)  KoroVcc  &va*T&9ifu>u    See  Lamb.  1.  ill.  p.  99,  and  the  Notes. 
Z**mu  lired  in  1120. 

(6)  8ee  Du  Conge,  Glos.  Gr.  in  Toce ;  and  Goar,  Euchol.  021. 

(7)  M  BaeU  was  a  grand  promoter  of  an  ascetic  life :  all  the  monks  and 
asms  in  the  Greek  Church  are  ererywhere  of  his  order."    Covell.  p.  251. 

(8)  See  this  title  in  the  Printed  Books,  p.  1 1. 

(?)  Gregory  of  Nazianzus ; ''  col  post  Johannem  Apostolum  pro  peca- 
Haripanegyrieo,  et  ttar%  ltox$v,  Theologi  cognomen  adhaesit."  Muratori. 


21 


99 


22  CATALOGUE    OF    MANUSCRIPTS 

Of  the  same,  with  Scholia. 

Tpatfs  tvs  Oeias  ^T^pxwa. 

Tpr/yopiov1  tov  QcoXoyov  eva  (SifSXlov,  to  oiroiov 
elvou  ypd\jnfiov  tov  jSacrtAeW  'AXeljlov  tov 
ILopurqvov,  tov  ISiov  ypdtyifiov. 

Gregory  of  Nyssa. 

Exposition  of  Holy  Scripture. 

Gregory  the  Theologue.     2  vols. 

Of  the  same,  Epistles. 

Tprjyoptov  tov  QeoXoyov  Terpaxrriytov  c&fjyqo'if. 

Gregory  of  Nyssa,  and  others  of  the  Fathers, 
on  the  Lord's  Prayer. 

Orations  of  Gregory  Nazianzus. 

Exposition  on  the  Epistle  to  the  Romans. 

A. 

Demetrius    Gemistus2,     irep\    ttjs    iv     fteyakg 

eKKXrjala  tov  Traxpiapyov  XciTOvpyias. 
Aiowciov  tov  'ApciowayiTOv. 

Ato8(OpOV  *2lK€\tCDT0V  'XaTOplKOV. 

E. 

Gospels.     Various  copies. 


(1)  "A  work  of  Gregory  Nazianzus,  which  is  in  the  hand-writing  of 
the  king,  Alexius  Comnenus.    His  own  hand-writing.1 

(2)  Deacon  and  prothonotary  in  Constantinople. 


»» 


IN    THE    PATMOS    LIBRARY. 

^vctyyeXucTf  avfjtffxovia. 
Commentary  on  the  Psalms. 
Interpretation  of  the  Old  Testament. 
*E£cc7rooT€\dpia   oXov  tov  xpovov. 
Commentary  on  one  of  the  Gospels. 
Ecclesiastical  History  of  Eusebius. 

E0pcu/i4  Xoyoi  Sidxf>opoi. 


23 


QaXaacriov*  tov  afifia  kcu  9Avti6\ov. 
Theodoret  on  the  Psalms. 
Theodore,  abbot  of  Studium. 

I. 

'Igkt^00  Upvevvlov  Xoyot  8id(f)opoi. 
Theological  Enchiridion  of  John  of  Damascus. 
Exposition  of  the  History  of  Job. 
%\<oavvo\P  tov  afifia  rfyovfiivov  Trjs  'PouOov. 
The  same. 
Isidore.     Epistles. 


(3)  See  Gear,  Euchol.  p.  436. 

(4)  Bphraem,  or  Ephraim,  born  at  Nitibis  in  Mesopotamia,    See 
Lamb.  1.  i.  p.  117. 

(5)  Abbot  of  ft  monastery  in  Libya.    Cave,  Hist.  Bee, 

(6)  Lived  about  1420.    A  Byzantine  monk. 

(7)  Perhaps  the  Epbtle  of  John  the  abbot  of  Raiih  to  John  Climaus. 
Lamb.  L  It.  p.  186. 


24  CATALOGUE    OF    MANUSCRIPTS 

'Icodvin)1  rtp  QeoXoytp  TrapaKkr)<rw. 

'lacuiK   afifia  rod  TLvpov  Xoyoi  oxtkyitikoL 

'lwxxrqft  fiaaiXeco?  *\v8<ov  filo?. 

On  the  Ten  Categories. 

John  of  Damascus. 

John  Scylitza4. 

9IaTpo<ro(f>ia  .      3  vols. 


K. 

ItLavovaptov. 

A. 
Various  Discourses. 
Discourses  of  Chrysostom,  and  others,  on  Lent. 

M. 

Maxim  us,  irtpX  airopprjrav  tt}$  deca?  ypa<f>rj?. 
NLa£iftov    tou    ofioXoyrjrov     /cat    Avyovorivov, 

v  *2vfl€(DV    T€    TOV     vtoV    0€O\oyOV,     KdL   TW€9 

X  veapal  'Pgd/julvov  {SaaiXetosF. 

(1)  UapaK\rj<Ttict  Prayers.     St.  John  is   called,    in    the   Mencta, 
'Apxvy^C  TJIC  OtoXoyiag. 

(2)  Lived  in  tbe  sixth  century. 

(3)  '■  Historia  Judaica  de  Barlaamo  Eremita,  et  Josapho  rege  In- 
dia." Fab.  ix.  737. 

(4)  John  Scylitza,  a  Thraeesian  by  birth,  wrote  an  Epitome  of  His- 
tory.   Lamb,  1.  H.  p.  578. 

(5)  Collection  from  the  writings  of  Hippocrates,  Galen,  and  Meletius. 

(6)  For  an  account  of  Symeon,  see  Leo  Allot,  de  Sym.  Scriptis,  from 
p.  143  to  179.  Maximus  died  in  662.  Nfapat,  Novella,  of  Homanus: 
See  Du  Conge,  in  voce. 


IN   THE    PATMOS    LIBRARY.  25 

McAerioir  TLvprjyov  /lero^/Nurrov,  Discourses  on 

the  Twelve  Months.     14  vols. 
Imperfect  Menaeum. 
Menaea  for  the  whole  Year.     1 2  vols. 


N. 

fiurijTc?  *2*ppciv  €i9  to  Kara  *la>avyT)v. 
Nofuxoy. 

Nicola  us,  archbishop  of  Constantinople.  Letters, 
and  some  Expositions  of  Scripture. 

n. 

Life  of  Pachomius0. 
Tlarepuca.10  4  vols. 
TlavXov  rou  oftoXoyrjTov. 

Havr/yvpucov11. 

Acts  of  the  Apostles1*. 


(7)  Meletius  Syrifus,  Cretentis,  (Fab.  iz.  308.)  lived  in  1638. 

(8)  Metropolitan  of  Strrm  in  Macedonia,  about  the  year  1077. 

(9)  Died  in  the  middle  of  the  fourth  century. 

(10)  u  Varus  adhortaUonei  et  narrationes  ex  variif  scriptis  et  vitii 
Patnun."  Fab.  ix.  312. 

(11)  Liber  Ecclesiastical.  Du  Cange  in  voce.    Sec  also  Care,  l)t  Lib. 
EecL  GrtKorum. 

(12)  A  MS.  of  Paehymer,  who  lived  in  the  middle  of  the  thirteenth 
century,  is  omitted  in  this  Catalogue.  Poucvin  mention*  it.  Fab,  vii.  77(1. 


26  CATALOGUE   OF   MANUSCRIPTS,    ETC. 

2. 

Yvva£apiOTr)sl .     2  vols. 
Catenum  Patrum  on  Isaiah. 
Also  on  Pentateuch. 

^tovSItov  (perhaps  of  Theodore). 

T. 

Tpuodtov  areAey*. 

Y. 

Y7raKor}s  wept  kou  aXAcov  dpercov. 

X. 

XpvaooTOfUKa.  rofwi  42. 
Chrysostom.     8  vols. 

(1)  Synaxariorum  Scriptor.    Du  Conge  in  ?oce. 

(2)  See  Du  Cange,  Gloss,  in  yoce ;  and  Csve,  De  Lib.  Ece.  GrsBCoram. 

(3)  Perhaps  from  Theodore  of  Studium.     See  Yriarte,  Cat.  Bib. 
Matt.  p.  18. 


1.  P<rrt  of  J-o  SfU.  |  4.  Part  Mtrita.  I  7.  MomuUry  and  Town  wf 

•1.  Part  if  Sapiia.     I  fi.  Small  Wntm  Creak.  Poimoj. 

3.  Pert  Griam.  |  6.  Pari  of  Diworti.        |  8.  Cava  of  thi  Apocalypu. 


CHAP.  I. 


COB  TO  PATHOS. 


Messenger  from  the  Vizier — Botanical  Discoveries 
—  Casiot  vessel  —  Antient  custom  of  singing 
Vespers — Leiraaiuf  Lepsia — Arrival otPatmos 
— Critical  situation  of  a  part  of  the  French 
army — Monastery  of  St.  John — Library — Ig- 
norance of  the  Monks — Manuscripts — Disco- 
very of  the  Patmos  Plato — Other  valuable 
Works — Manuscript  in  the  hand-writing  of 
Alexius  Comnenus — State  of  the  island — An- 
tient Medals — Extensive  prospect — HolyGrotto 
— Dinner  given  by  the  French  Officers — Bar- 
thelemy —  Women  of  the  island — Bells — Stra- 
tagem for  obtaining  the  Greek  Manuscripts — 
Fruitless  attempt  to  leave  the  island— View  of 


30  ISLAND   OF   COS. 


chap    whether    rare    or    common,   which    preceding 
authors  have  already  described.1 


(1)  I,  A  very  curious  small  species  of  Plantain  (Plantago  Linn.),  of 
which  there  is  a  figure  and  description  in  Clusius's  "  Plantarum 
Rariorum  Historia,"  lib.  v.  cap.  16,  under  the  name  of  Catanance 
prima  Dioscoridis;  but  this  has  been  omitted  by  Linnaus,  and  by 
all  the  editors  of  his  works.  The  whole  plant  is  scarcely  an  inch 
and  a  half  in  height:  its  leaves  are  of  a  narrow  lance-shape,  and 
ciliated ;  the  flowers  in  little,  round,  upright  heads ;  and  these, 
together  with  the  short  stalks  supporting  them,  are  clothed  with 
long  soft  wool.  The  species  ought  to  be  arranged  near  the  Cretan 
Plantain  (Plantago  CretUa),  to  which  it  is  nearly  allied;  but  it 
may  be  easily  distinguished!  either  by  the  leaves,  or  by  the  heads 
of  the  flowers.  We  called  it  Plahtago  Catananchb.  Plan- 
tago foliis  lanceolata-limearibus,  ciliatis,  pilosis;  spied  subrotundk 
erectd,  scapo  brevissimo  bracteisque  lanatis.  Catanance  prima 
Dioscoridis.     Clas.  Plant,  Rar.  Hist.  2.  p.  112.  cum  tabuld. 

II.  A  non-descript  species  of  Crow-foot  Ranunculus,  with  slender  erect 

unbranched  stems,  and  single  flowers.  We  have  called  it 
Ranunculus  gracilis.  Ranunculus  cauls  simpUci,  gracili, 
ertcio:  foliis  radicalibus  quinquspartitis  tripartitisqus,  laciniis 
flabslliformibutsinuato-dentatis;  caulinis  muUipartitislaebmssub' 
Unearibus,  glabris.  Radices  tuberosa,  fasciculate.  Folia  radicalia 
circumscriptionecordato  subrotundA,  diametro  pollicario  vel  parum 
ultra  ;  petioH  longi,  pilosi :  folia  caulina  duo  seu  tres  sessUia,  supe- 
riora  subtr\fida.  Caulis  pedalis,  teres,  pubescens.  Calyx  glaber, 
reflexus.     Corolla  magnitudine  R.  repentls  flavd.    Petala  obovata. 

III.  An  elegant  non-descript  species  of  Trefoil  (Trtfolium  Linn.)  This 
we  have  named  Trifolium  orn atuk.  TrtfoUum  annuum, cauH- 
bus  ramosis  sub-erectis,  foliolis  obovatis  argutissime  serratis.  mw- 
cronatis,  glabris ;  stipulis  oppositis ;  spicis  terminations,  solitaries, 
subrotundis,  basi  bracteatis,  apice  steriHbus ;  bracteis  suboctonis, 
calycis  dentibus  subulatis  aqualibus.  Caules  striati  pilosi.  Folia 
striata  vix  semipollicaria,  summa  opposita.  Petioli  partiales  ciliati, 
brevissimi.  Spica  pedunculata  foliii ibreviores.  Bractetssubcordato* 
ovate,  nitida.    Calyx  corolld  dimidio  brevior,  basin  versus  pilosus. 

IV.  A  non- 


I5LASD  OF   COS-  31 

On    Wednesday,     October  the  tmmtk,    oar  cbap. 
interpreter,  Amiomio,  returned  from  Budritm  with 


Wefcwe  ceflal  it  Polyculla. 


cigfct  to  iboaft  tsvBti,  ftccordisg  to 
Ac  bi  vingtvrof  tfaeplaate;  the  pettfr,  isrij  oral,  vfajfe. 
We  tare  crihiit 


fax*   trt'yArrioi;  pefmlit 
.  mujmHCMlu,  wpathk  w*m>- 
pkjUi  vtatrie—i  mwmimatc  mhrnhmdi     TUt  qpeciet  k  afiied  to 

of  Cyriffi;  to  tfae  iffin «6Ur»(m of 
^tmAiothtAOmmdaMtmmofCmrfisMMdSimm.    From 

tike 


32  ISLAND   OF    COS. 

chap,   the  Governor's  chiaoux,  in  a  small  caique,  manned 


by  a  single  family  of  the  Island  of  Casos,  con- 
cert* sisting  of  four  individuals ;  viz.  a  young  widower, 
vessel.    kjg  g0Q^   kjg  brother,  and  a  very  old  man  his 

uncle.  Antonio  had  found  no  vessel  that  would 
suit  us  in  the  port  of  Btidrun ;  and  was  returning 
in  the  open  boat  which  conveyed  him,  when, 
coming  from  the  harbour,  he  beheld  the  Casiot 
bark,  coasting  slowly  eastward,  and  within  hail. 
Having  boarded  this  vessel,  he  found  that  it 
was  empty,  returning  to  Casos  for  want  of  a 
freight  He  easily  prevailed  upon  the  poor 
Casiots  to  steer  for  Stanchio,  in  the  hope  of  being 
hired  by  us,  and  we  very  gladly  availed  our- 
selves of  the  opportunity.  The  vessel  was  old, 
and  the  large  triangular  sails  were  tattered  and 
rotten.  It  was,  in  fact*  nothing  more  than  an 
open  boat :  a  man  of  middle  stature,  standing 
in  the  hatchway  with  his  feet  in  the  hold,  had 
at  least  the  half  of  his  body  above  the  deck  :  it 
was  impossible  therefore  to  contrive  any  thing 
like  a  cabin,  in  which  to  stand  upright;  but  by 


the  first  it  differs  'id  the  form  of  tbe  umbel,  which  at  once  distin- 
guishes it :  from  the  two  last,  the  difference  consists  in  the  form  of 
the  leaves,  the  few  rays  which  are  found  in  the  umbel,  the  simple 
sheath,  and  the  large  blossoms. 
VII.  The  Purple  Orchis  (Orchis  Hero'ica,  nobis).  See  Vol.  III. 
Chap.  V.  p.  145.    Octavo  edition. 


DEPARTURE    FROM    COS.  33 

clearing  and  cleansing  this  place,  we  found  we  chap. 
could  obtain  a  shelter  for  the  night,  and  during  ^vW 
the  day  we  should  of  course  prefer  being  upon 
the  deck.     Landsmen  in  harbour,  especially  in 
fine  weather,  are  easily  reconciled  to  all  chances 
in  preparing  to  go  to  sea:  without  further  con- 
sideration,  we  hired  this  vessel  at  the  rate  of 
four  hundred  and  fifty  piastres  per  month,  en- 
gaging to  find  our  own  provisions,  and  leaving 
the  crew  to  provide  for  themselves.     They  fell 
to  work  briskly,  preparing  their  vessel  for  our 
reception  ;  and  by  the  next  evening,  at  sunset, 
having  everything  necessary  on  board,  we  were 
desired  to  embark.     Mr.  Riley  went  with  us  to 
take  leave  of  the  Governor,  from  whom  we  had 
experienced   great   kindness    and   civility:    the 
Greek  Bishop,   and  the  worthy  French  Consul, 
accompanying  us  to  the  shore,  and  taking  leave 
of  us  upon  the  deck  of  our  little  bark.     At  eight 
o'clock   we  were   under  weigh:  a  land  breeze 
drove  us  smoothly  along ;  and  the  Casiots  began 
their  evening  hymn.     This  reminded  us  of  a  Aotient 

0       •  m  Custom  of 

passage  in  Long  us1,  who,   in  the  very  seas  we  ringing 
were  now  traversing,   describes  a  similar  cus- 
tom :    "  While   they   rowed,   one   of  the   crew 


(1 )  Longtu,  lib.  iii.     Paris,  1778. 
VOL.    VI.-  D 


34  COS   TO    PAT  BIOS. 

chap,  "gang  to  them  ;  the  rest,  as  a  chorus,  at  intervals 
"joined  with  him1.'9  The  Venetian  sailors  have 
a  hymn  which  they  sing  exactly  after  the  same 
manner,  the  crew  being  all  upon  deck  at  the 
time,  and  upon  their  knees9.  It  is,  in  fact,  a 
very  antient  custom,  and  is  still  common  all 
over  the  Mediterranean. 

The  next  morning,  October  the  ninth,  we  found 
ourselves  to  be  opposite  to  the  small  Isle  of 
Zerta,  bearing  s.  w.  and  by  w.  distant  eight  miles, 
the  wind  being  tranquil,  and  the  sea  calm3.     We 


(1)  Oi  $k  Xotxot,  KaOdxep  x°P^C>  bpof&vuQ 

Kard  xaipbv  rfc  tKtivov  fwviJQ  IfMtav.     Longus,  ibid. 

(2)  We  have  preserved  the  words  of  a  Venetian  Hymn,  as  we  heard 
it  song  every  evening,  when  the  weather  permitted,  in  the  Black  Sea, 
on  board  the  Venetian  brig  in  which  we  sailed  from  Russia  for  Can* 
stantinople  : 

"  O  santa  Barbara,  nostra  avocata  ! 

Che  sei  madre  de  la  Maria, 

Questa  na? e,  1'artilleria, 
Sempre  da  ?oi  lascis  guardata ! 

Cbor.        O  Santa  Barbara !  frc. 

"  O  santissimo  Sacramento ! 

Jesu  Christo,  nostro  signore ! 

Qui  che  guarda  tatti  l'hore ! 
Qui  che  sal? a  ogni  momento  ! 

Chor.         O  Santissimo!  £c." 

(3)  •'  Leva  is  nine  leagues  v.  w.  and  by  w.  from  Stanchio."  Perry's 
View  of  the  O  thorn  an  Empire,  p.  482.    Land.  1743. 


ISLE   OF    LBRIA.  35 

saw  the  monastery  and  town  of  Leraf  as  it  is  now    chap. 
called. 


This  little  island  has  three  harbours ;  and  it 
is  said  by  Dapper  to  produce  abundance  of  the 
wood  of  aloes,  so  much  esteemed  in  Turkey  as  a 
perfume4.  Dapper's  assertion  may  be  doubted ; 
for  the  enormous  price  of  this  wood  at  Constan- 
tinople seems  to  prove  that  it  is  not  found, 
abundantly,  anywhere  so  near  to  that  city. 
The  character  of  the  ancient  inhabitants  of 
Lena,  who  were  originally  a  Milesian  colony4, 
gave  rise  to  the  very  antient  epigram  of 
PhocylideSy  so  often,  in  after  ages,  parodied  and 
imitated,  but  perhaps  never  with  more  success 
than  by  our  illustrious  countryman,  Porson6: 

Kcrl  roSe  Q(jJKv\i$£a>'  Aipioi  kclkoI'  oJ^o  piv,  o?  8  ov' 
riavrcc»  irXqv  TlpoicXiovg'  Kai  TlpoicXlrig  Atpiog. 

(4)  Dapper  Description  des  Isles  de  YArchipel.  p.  183.     Anut.  1703. 

(5)  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  xiv.  p.  910.     Oxen.  1807.     Strabo  writes  the 
nine  of  thif  island  both  Aipia  and  Aepog. 

(6)  In  the  following  Epigram  npon  the  Greek  Scholars  of  Germany, 
which  the  author  has  transcribed  from  his  own  handwriting. 

Nififoc  tcrk  /icrpw//,  «  TivrOf/tc,  ovx  o  pip.  6c  o  ov 
Uaprtc,  xXqy  CPMANNOC*  o  f  eppayfjoc cfoZpa  Ttvruy. 

The  Germans  in  Greek 

Are  sadly  to  Peek, 

Not  five  in  five  score, 

But  ninety-five  more : 

All,  save  only  Herman, 

And  Hermann  a  German. 

D   2 


36  ISLAND    OF    PATMOS. 

At  half-past  eight  a.  m.  we  made  the  Island 
of  Patmos1;  and  afterwards  passing  between 
Leria  and  Lepsia,  Samos  appeared  most  beau- 
tifully in  view,  covered  by  a  silvery  mist, 
softening  every  object,  but  concealing  none. 
Lepsia  is  now  called  Lip  so.     At  eleven  o'clock 

ArriTfti  at  A' M*   we   entered   the    port  of   La   Scala*,  in 
Patmos.    pATM0S#       we    were     surprised     by     meeting 

several  boats  filled  with  French  soldiers,  fishing. 
In  order  to  prevent  bur  caique  from  being  fired 
at,  as  a  pirate  vessel  (which  she  much  re- 
sembled, and  probably  had  been),  we  had 
hoisted  an  English  flag  given  to  us  by  Captain 
Clarke,  and  recommended  for  our  use  in  the 
Archipelago.  The  Frenchmen,  seeing  this  proud 
distinction  upon  our  humble  skiff,  called  out, 
by  way  of  taunt,  "  Voila  un  beau  venez-y  voir ! 
Le  Pavilion  Anglois !  Tremblez,  Messieurs!" 
They  were  much  too  numerous  to  venture  a 
reply,  if  we  had  been  so  disposed  ;  and  as  soon 
as  we  landed,  we  found  the  quay  covered  with 
French  privates,  among  whom  were  some  of  the 


(1)  lt  Patmos  is  six  leagues  from  Lera,  n.  w.  by  tr."  Perry's  View 
of  the  Levant,  p.  483.     Lond.  1743. 

(2)  Dapper  says  it  receired  the  name  of  La  Scala  from  the  quay 
which  has  been  constructed  here ;  but  it  may  hare  been  so  called  from 
the  steep  ascent  to  the  monastery,  which  begins  at  the  landing-place  of 
this  harbour. 


l&ULXB   OF   PATMOS.  37 

inferior  officers  of  the  French  army.     These  men   chap. 


were  a  part  of  the  army  which  had  surrendered 

to  oar  troops  in  Egypt,   on  their  passage  to 

France-     The  transport  hired  for  their  convey-  gjtJSuJL 

ance  was  commanded  by  an  Algerine :  this  man  $  S^** 

had  pat  into   Patinas,   ander  the  pretence  ofj^J?? 

careening  his  vessel ;  saying  that  it  was  unsafe 

to  continue  the  voyage  until  this  had  been  done ; 

bat  it  was  feared  that  he  intended  to  seize  an 

opportunity,  after  landing  these  Frenchmen,  to 

escape  with  the  ship  and  all  the  booty  on  board* 

We  had  been  but  a  short  time  on  shore,  when 

a  petition  was  brought  to  us  signed  by  the  French 

officers,  stating  their  fears,  and  begging  that  we 

would  represent  their  case  to  our  Minister  at 

Constantinople.      They  said  they   had    already 

removed   their    trunks,   and   were   resolved  to 

return  no   more  on   board  the   Algerine;    the 

rascally    Captain    having    twice    attempted   to 

poison  their  food.     All  this  was  uttered  in  a 

very  different  sort  of  tone  from  that  in  which 

we  had  been  hailed  upon  our  coming  into  the 

harbour,   and   we    entered    warmly   into   their 

cause*     Their  situation  was,  to  be  sure,  critical. 

They  had  property  belonging  to   some  of  the 

French  Generals,  besides  their  own  effects ;  and 

all  the  cases  containing  these  things  were  lying 


38  ISLAND    OF    PATMOS. 

upon  the  open  quay.  They  were  forced  to 
appoint  a  regular  guard,  day  and  night  ;J  hourly 
dreading,  as  they  told  U9,  a  visit  from  some  of 
the  numerous  pirates  which  swarm  around 
Patmos1 :  besides  all  this,  the  mutinous  beha- 
viour of  their  own  men  made  it  impossible  for 
them  to  rely  even  upon  the  sentinels  set  over 
the  baggage,  for  they  were  constantly  in  a  state 
of  intoxication  with  the  wine  of  the  island.  As 
Mr.  Riley  was  going  to  Constantinople  we  wrote 
to  the  British  Ambassador,  briefly  explaining  the 
event  that  had  taken  place :  and  our  letter,  as 
we  were  afterwards  told,  procured  them  another 
ship.  In  the  meantime,  it  was  necessary  to 
take  some  immediate  step  for  the  security  rf 
their  baggage.  For  this  purpose  we  proposed 
making  an  application  to  the  monks  of  the 
Monastery  of  the  Apocalypse,  which  is  situate 
two  miles  and  a  half  from  the  quay,  upon  the 
top  of  a  mountain  in  the  highest  part  of  all  the 
island,  close  to  the  town  of  Patmos.  Here  it 
might  be  secure  from  pirates  ;  for  the  building  is 


(1)    Patmos  has   always  been    exposed  to  the  attacks  of  pirates, 
Tmtrnefort  relates,  tbat  the  town  was  formerly  in  the  port  of  La  Seal*; 
bat  that  the  pirates  compelled  its  inhabitants  to  abandon  it,  and  to 
retire  to  the  heights  where  it  is  now  situate,  close  to  the  Monastery  *■* 
St.  John. 


ISLAND    OF    PATMOS.  39 

strongly  fortified,  and  it  is  proof  against  any  chap. 
attack  of  that  nature2.  A  Commissary  of  the  \^v^* 
French  army  proposed  to  accompany  us  npon 
this  expedition;  and,  as  the  plan  was  highly 
approved,  we  set  off,  without  further  delay,  for 
the  Convent.  The  ascent  is  steep  and  rugged, 
bat  practicable  for  asses  and  mules ;  and  upon 
the  backs  of  these  animals  we  proposed  to 
convey  the  trunks.  When  we  arrived  at  the  Monastery 
Monastery,  we  were  quite  struck  by  its  size  and 
substantial  appearance*  It  is  a  very  powerful 
fortress,  built  upon  a  steep  rock,  with  several 
towers  and  lofty  thick  walls ;  and  if  duly 
mounted  with  guns,  might  be  made  impreg- 
nable. According  to  Towrnefort%  it  is  said  to 
have  been  founded  by  Alexius  Comnenus,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  persuasion  of  St.  Christodulug* ; 
but  Dapper  relates,  that  the  saint  himself 
founded  the  Monastery,  having  obtained  per- 
mission to  this  effect  from  Alexius,  towards  the 


(3)  "  Palme**,  Patmo  anticamente  dettm,  insula  pesta  nell'Arcipe- 
kgo :  sopra  loqoale :  S.  Joannia  Evangelista  seriate  il  sacro  Apoca- 
lypti:  easendo  stato  mandato  in  exilio  da  Domitiano  Imperat.  In 
aonoria  delqnale,  on  bellissimo  Monasterio  del  sno  nome,  da  snoi 
Dadpoli  fa  fobricato :  et  da  caloiri  hora  babitato  :  conserrandosi  da 
convi  essere  offew."  Martin.  Crui.  Turco-Gracia,  lib.  ir.  p.  302. 
Amst.  Bpist.  Macar.  Basil,  sine  anno. 

(3;  Voyage  da  Levant,  torn.  II.  p.  141.    Lyony  1717. 


40  ISLAND    OF    PATMOS. 

chap,  end  of  the  tenth  century,  when  he  retired  to 
v^k^/  Patmos,  to  avoid  the  persecution  of  the  Turk?. 
St.  Christodulus  had  been  Abbot  of  Latros,  a  day 
and  a  half's  journey  from  JEphesus,  where  he 
presided  over  twenty  convents*.  We  were  re- 
ceived by  the  Superior  and  by  the  Bursar  of  the 
Monastery,  in  the  Refectory.  Having  made 
known  the  cause  of  our  coming,  we  presented  to 
them  our  circular  letter  from  the  Capudan  Pasha : 
this,  being  written  in  Turkish,  was  interpreted 
by  Mr.  Riley.  After  a  short  consultation,  they 
acquiesced  in  the  proposal  made  for  the  French 
officers ;  and  agreed  to  receive  the  whole  of  the 
baggage  at  the  quay,  within  their  walls ;  also  a 
single  officer  to  superintend  the  care  of  it,  until 
a  vessel  should  arrive  from  Constantinople,  or 
from  Smyrna,  for  its  removal.  This  business 
being  settled,  we  asked  permission  to  see  the 
Library,  which  was  readily  granted  ;  and 
while  the  French  Commissary  went  into  the 
town  to  hire  some  mules,  the  two  Caloyers,  by 
whom  we  had  been  received,  conducted  us 
thither. 

Library.         \ye  entered  a  small  oblong  chamber,    having 


(1)  Dapper.  Descr.  des  Isles  de  VArchipel.  p.  181.    Am$t.  1708. 
(*)  Ibid. 


ISLAND    OF    PATMOS.  41 

a  vaulted  stone  roof;  and  found  it  to  be  nearly    chap. 

filled  with  books,  of  all  sizes,  in  a  most  neglected  v^v^s 

state  ;  some  lying  upon  the  floor,  a  prey  to  the 

damp    and    to    worms  ;    others   standing   upon 

shelves,  but  without  any  kind  of  order.      The 

books     upon    the    shelves     were     all     printed 

volumes :  for  these,  being  more  modern,   were 

regarded  as  the  more  valuable,  and  had  a  better 

station  assigned   them    than    the  rest,  many  of 

which  were  considered  only  as  so  much  rubbish. 

Some  of  the  printed  books  were  tolerably  well 

bound,  and  in  good  condition.      The  Superior 

said,  these  were  his  favourites;    but  when  we 

took  down  one  or  two  of  them  to  examine  their 

contents,  we  discovered  that  neither  the  Supe-  ignorance 

*       of  the 

rior  nor  his  colleague  were  able  to  read3.  They  Monks. 
had  a  confused  traditionary  recollection  of  the 
names  of  some  of  them,  but  knew  no  more  of 
their  contents  than  the  Grand  Signior.  We  saw 
here  the  first  edition  of  the  Anthologia,  in  quarto, 
printed    at    Florence,    in    capital   letters,    a.  d. 


(3)  Mont.  De  Choiseul-Govffier  (Voyage  Pittore$que  de  la  Grece, 
torn.  I.  p.  103.)  found  only  three  monks  in  Patmot  who  knew  bow 
to  read.  Somnini  speaks  of  their  extraordinary  ignorance ;  but  he  is 
mistaken  when  he  affirms  that  they  have  no  library.  "  There  is  no 
Khr,ryi"  »y»  he,  "  lo  the  Convent ;  and  of  what  utility  would  it  be, 
tmong  people  who,  for  the  most  part,  cannot  read."  See  SonninV* 
TraeeU  In  Greece,  (p.  ch.  36.  p.  473.    Lond.  1801. 


42  ISLAND    OF   PATMOS. 

mccccxciv.  a  beautiful  copy.  At  the  extre- 
mity of  this  chamber,  which  is  opposite  to  the 
window,  a  considerable  number  of  old  volumes 
of  parchment,  some  with  covers  and  some  with- 
out, were  heaped  upon  the  floor,  in  the  utmost 
disorder;  and  there  were  evident  proofs  that 
these  had  been  cast  aside,  and  condemned  to 
answer  any  purpose  for  which  the  parchment 
might  be  required.  When  we  asked  the  Supe- 
rior what  they  were  ?  he  replied,  turning  up  his 
nose  with  an  expression  of  indifference  and 
Mann-  contempt,  Xtip6ypa<f>a  I  It  was,  indeed,  a  mo- 
script*,  ment  in  which  a  literary  traveller  might  be 
supposed  to  doubt  the  evidence  of  his  senses; 
for  the  whole  of  this  contemned  heap  consisted 
entirely  of  Greek  Manuscripts,  and  some  of 
them  were  of  the  highest  antiquity.  We  sought 
in  vain  for  the  Manuscript  of  Homer,  said  to 
have  been  copied  by  a  student  from  Cos,  and 
alluded  to  upon  a  former  occasion1.  We  even 
ventured  to  ask  the  ignorant  monks,  if  they  had 
ever  heard  of  the  existence  of  such  a  relic  in 
their  library.     The  Bursar9  maintained  that  he 


(1)  See  Vol.  III.  Ch.  VII.  p.  268.     Octavo  Edition. 

(2)  Paul  Bicaut  has  well  described  tbe  state  in  which  we  found  the 
Patmot  Library;  and  also  mentions  this  office  of  Bursar,  whose 
business  it  is  to  take  care  of  the  books.  •«  Every  monastery  hath 
its  library  of  books,  wbich  are    kept  in   a   lofty  tower,  under  the 

custody 


ISLAKD   OF    PATMOS. 


43 


had,   and  he  should   know   the  Manuscript   if   c°ap. 
he  saw  it5.      Presently  he   produced  from  the 


ewstody  of  one  whom  they  call  £ccvof  v\axa7  who  it  also  their  steward, 
receives  their  money,  and  renders  an  account  of  all  their  expenses : 
hot  we  must  not  imagine  that  these  libraries  are  conserved  in  that 
order  as  oars  are  in  the  parts  of  Christendom ;  that  they  are  ranked 
aad  compiled  in  method,  on  shelves,  with  labels  of  the  contents ;  or 
that  they  are  brushed  and  kept  clean,  like  the  libraries  of  oar  Colleges : 
bat  they  are  piled  one  on  the  other,  without  order  or  method,  covered 
with  dost,  and  exposed  to  the  worm."  Ricaut*s  State  of  the  Greek 
and  Armenian  Churches,  p.  200.    Ltmd.  1679. 

(3)  This  Manuscript  was  afterwards  discovered  by  Mr.  Walpde,  in 
the  hands  of  a  schoolmaster,  at  the  Grotto  of  the  Apocalypse,  below 
the  Monastery.  Mr.  WalpoWs  observations  upon  this  Library  are 
particularly  interesting ;  because  they  prove  that  one  of  the  Manu- 
scripts brought  away  by  the  author  was  known  to  VUloison ;  and  that 
the  removal  of  the  rest  had  excited  some  sensation  in  Greece,  as 
appears  by  the  inscription  over  the  door. 

"  There  was  at  Patmos,  for  many  years,  a  school  frequented  by  the 

Modern  Greeks,  which  possessed  a  higher  reputation  than  any  other  in 

the  Levant.    This  has  now  yielded  the  pre-eminence  to  one  established 

si  KidonUis,  near  Smyrna.    A  Greek  in  the  island  of  Antiparos,  who 

accompanied  as  to  the  grotto  there,  told  me  he  had  been  educated  at 

Patmos;  and   repeated  to  me  the  beginning  of  the  Romance  of  the 

Mthiepk*  of  Heliodorus.     Daring  oar  stay  at  Patmos,  we  visited  the 

lower  Monastery,  where   the   grotto   is   shewn   in   which  St.  John 

vmte  the  Apocalypse;  it  is  called  e«o<rrijir6<n-i.     Here  is  also  a  small 

■taool:    we  found  the  schoolmaster   reading  a  manuscript  Homer, 

*ith  some  notes;  it  was  written   on  paper;  and  did  not  appear  of 

gnat  date. 

"The  Monastery  on  the  summit  of  the  island  is  a  very  handsome 
Wding :  from  it,  we  had  a  most  extensive  view  over  the  Archipelago, 
udtorns  of  the  Greek  islands.  In  the  two  visits  I  made  to  Patmos, 
I  vis  not  permitted  to  examine,  as  I  wished,  the  collection  of  books 
**1  papers  in  the  Library  of  the  Monastery  of  St.  John.  There  was 
■o  Greek  in  the  place  from  whom  I  could  obtain  any  satisfactory 
information.      On    the    shelves,    in    compartments,    are     arranged 

Theological 


44  ISLAND    OF   P  ATM  OS. 


chap,  heap  the  volume  he  pretended  to  recognise  : 
it  was  a  copy  of  the  Poems  of  Gregory  of 
Nazianzus\  written  upon  vellum,  evidently  as  old 


Theological  works :  these,  Villoison,  in  his  visit  to  the  Wand,  found  I 
injured  than  the  manuscripts  of  classical  writers.  The  monks  told 
him,  that,  twenty  years  before  his  arrival,  they  had  burnt  from  two 
to  three  thousand  manuscripts;  duo  vel  tria  millia  circiier  codUum 
combtususe.  Of  these  rtliqmm  Danaton,  a  copy  of  the  Lexicon  o» 
C trill  had  escaped  the  flames,  and  was  preserved  by  the  Abbot. 

"  On  one  side  of  the  Library  is  a  confused  heap  of  what  appears, 
for  the  most  part,  to  be  manuscript,  consisting  both  of  vellum  and 
paper.  Here,  if  an  accurate  search  were  made,  might  be  found 
probably  many  literary  fragments  of  importance.  Over  the  door  of 
the  Library  are  the  following  lines ;  intended,  doubtless,  for  hexameter 
verses :  they  were  placed  there,  as  the  date  informs  us,  in  1802. 

Aivp'/Avep,  Kiivrai  8<rat  fativai  xiipoypa<poi  fiipkoi, 
'Avdpi  pd  fkprepai  nivvrip  gpvcriov  doKiovvai' 
Tavr'  dpa  Ttjpet  Qv\a£  alio  paWov  /3toroio, 
T&v  $6pog  oftvtica  og  vvv  roi  yivaro  ftyy6po\og  yt. 
IttI  Irovg  Aw/3'  Mifvog  AvyovaTov. 

'*  In  THI8  PLACE  ARB  LYING  WHATEVER  MANUSCRIPTS  THBftB  ARB 
OF  NOTE:  MORB  ESTIMABLE  ARB  THBT  TO  A  WIBB  MAM  THAN  GOLD: 
GUARD  THBM,  THEREPORB,  WATCHFULLY,  MORB  THAN  TOUR  LIFB  ; 
FOR  ON  THEIR  ACCOUNT  18  THIS  MONASTERY  NOW  BBCOMB  CON- 
SPICUOUS.—In   THB    MONTH   OF   AUGUST,  THB  YEAR   1802.** 

Walpole  MS.  JoumaL 
The  inscription  over  the  door  of  the  Library  has  been  added  since 
the  author's  visit ;  and  the  Lexicon  of  CpriU,  mentioned  by  ViUoimn, 
is  the  identical  Codex  he  bought  of  the  Superior,  and  brought  away. 
For  a  more  detailed  account  of  the  MSS.  of  Greece,  the  reader  is 
referred  to  some  remarks  by  Mr.  Walpole,  in  the  beginning  of  this 
Section. 

(1 )  In  the  First  Edition  of  this  Part  of  the  Author's  Travels,  he  had 
inadvertently  written  the  name  of  this  city  Naziamen;  for  which  he 
was  reproved  by  a   writer,  in   the   Quarterly  Review,  maintaining 

that 


ISLAND   OF    PATMOS.  45 

a9  the  ninth  century.     The  cover  and  some  of  chap. 
the  outer  leaves  had  been  torn  off;  but  the  rest   *^/W 
was  perfect     The  ink  had  become  red ;  a  cir- 
cumstance alluded  to  by  Montfaucon,  in  ascer- 
taining the  age  of  Greek  Manuscripts  ;  and  the 
writing  throughout  manifested  an  equal  degree 
of  antiquity*.     What  was    to    be    done  ?     To 
betray  any  extraordinary  desire  to  get  posses- 
sion of  these  treasures,  would  inevitably  prevent 
all  possibility  of  obtaining  any  of  them.     We 
referred  the  matter  to  Mr.  Riley,  as  to  a  person 
habituated  in  dealing  with  knavish  Greeks ;  and 
presently  such  a  jabbering  took  place,  accom- 
panied with  so  many  significant  shrugs,  winks, 
nods,  and  grimaces,  that  it  was  plain  something 


that  it  ought  to  be  written  Naxiansum  ! ! !  for  which  no  authority  can 
be  adduced  in  the  Greek  language.  The  real  name  of  this  city  was 
Xaziavzus.  To  prove  this,  it  is  only  necessary  to  refer  to  the  life  of 
Gregory  Naxiansen  by  Gregory  Nyssen ;  HarpiQ  pkv  a&rtp,  tj  Sivripa 
riv  K«x«a&0Kdy,  w6A*c  Si  N AZIANZ0Z.  (Gregor.  Nations.  Vit.p. 
&  L.  Par.  1008.)  But  in  the  Themes  of  Constantine  Porphyrogenitus 
(Thema  Second,  apud  Bandar.  Imper.  Orient,  torn.  1.  p.  7.)  the  same 
city  is  also  called  Nazianzus.  Trie  Sk  tivripag  KannaSoKiag  tioi 
*iXc<£  vwo  t)yip6va9  b*r&  Tvava,  QavorivofaoXiQ,  Kvj3c<rrfpa, 
HAZIANZ02,  r.  r.  X.  and  in  the  Syneedemus  of  Hierocles,  it  is  also 
written  Na£iay£o£.     Vid.  p.  46.  torn.  1.  Bandur,  Imper.  Orient. 

(2)  "Quod  autem  jam  in  vetostioribus  manuscriptit  Qraecis  conspi- 
eitnat  atramentum,  a  prisco  nigrore  multum  recessit:  nee  tamen 
onroino  flavom  languiduroque  evasit;  sed  fulvum  mtilamque  manet, 
Qtperssepe  a  minii  colore  non  multum  recedat.  Id  autem  observes 
is  Codicibos  permultis  a  quarto  ad  duodeclmum  usque  sa?culum." — 
Montfkucon.  PaUtog.  Grate,  lib.  i.  c.  1.  p.  2.    Paris,  1708. 


46  ISLAND    OP    PATMOS. 

chap,   like  a  negotiation  was  going  on.     The  author, 
v^vw/    meanwhile,  continued  to  inspect  the  heap ;  and 
had  soon  selected  the  fairest  specimen  of  Gre- 
cian calligraphy  which  has  descended  to  modern 
times.     It  was  a  copy  of  the  twenty-four  first 
SmSm"7  Dialogues  of  Plato,  written  throughout,  upon 
PtotoV     vellum,  in  the  same  exquisite  character;  con- 
cluding   with  a  date,    and    the    name  of  the 
calligraphist.     The  whole  of  this  could  not  be 
ascertained  at  the   instant1.      It  was   a  single 


(1)  This  Manuscript,  after  the  author's  return  to  England,  remained 
in  the  bands  of  his  friend,  the  late  Professor  Porson,  until  bis  death. 
It  Is  now,  with  the  other  MSS.  from  Pat  mot.  fee.  in  the  Bodleian 
Library  at  Oxford.     For  further  particulars  concerning  it,  the  reader 
is  therefore  referred  to  the  Catalogue  of  all  the  MSS.  brought  from 
Greece  by  the  author,  written  by  the  celebrated  Professor  Gaitford,  and 
printed  at  the  Clarendon  Press  in  1812;  a  work  which  has  impressed 
every  scholar  with    the    most    profound  admiration  of  the   writer's 
learning  and  great  critical  acumen.     Reference  may  also  be  made  to 
the  observations  of  on  r,  who  could  best  have  appreciated  Professor 
GauforaVs  surprising  talents ;  namely,  of  the  illustrious  Porson  him- 
self; as  they  are  now  published  in  his  Adversaria,  by  his  successor 
Professor  Monk,  and  the  Rev.  Charlet  B  lorn  field ;  the  learned  editors, 
respectively,  of  JEuripides  and  of  JSschyhu .    To  mention  every  person 
who  has  contributed   to   the  celebrity  of  this   inestimable   volume, 
would  be  to  enumerate  the  names  of  almost  all  the  eminent  Greek 
scholars  in  the  kingdom.     Of  the  importance  of  the  marginal  notes, 
and  the  curious  fragments  they  contained  from  Greek  Plays  that  are 
lust,  together  with   a    variety   of  particulars  relating   to    the   other 
Manuscripts   here  mentioned,  the  author  does  not   intend  to  add  a 
syllable:    it  were  presumptive  and  supeifluous  to  do    so,  after  the 
observations  already  published  upon  the  subject.     His  only  aim  is,  to 
give  a  general   narrative  of  the  manner   in  which  he  succeeded  in 
rescuing  these  Manuscripts  from  rottenness  and  certain  destruction  in 
the  Monastery. 


r 


«« 


ISLAND   OF    PATMOS.  47 

volume  in  folio,  bound  in  wood.  The  cover  chap. 
was  full  of  worms,  and  falling  to  pieces  :  a  v^y^/ 
paper  label  appeared  at  the  back,  inscribed,  in 
a  modern  hand,  AmXoyot  SwKparou?  ;  but  the 
letters  of  Plato's  name,  separated  by  stars, 
appeared  very  distinctly  as  a  head-piece  to  the 
first  page  of  the  Manuscript,  in  this  manner : 

n*A*A*T#n*N*o*c 

A  postscript  at  the  end  of  the  volume  stated  that 
the  Manuscript  had  been  "  written  by  John  the 
Calligraphistj  for  Arethas,  Dean  of  Patrte,  in 
the  month  of  November  896,  the  14.  year  of  the 
Indiction,  and  6404.  year  of  the  world,  in  the 
**  reign  of  Leo  son  of  Basilius,  for  the  sum  of 
"  thirteen  Byzantine  Nummi,"  about  eight 
guineas  of  our  money.  The  Manuscript  men- 
tioned by  Dorville  on  Chariton?  is  one  year  older. 

The  author  afterwards  discovered  a  Lexicon  i>toeo¥«T 

of  otber 

of  St.  Cyrill  of  Alexandria^  written  upon  vfoM* 
paper,  without  any  date,  and  contained  in  a 
volume  of  Miscellanies.  He  also  found  two 
small  volumes  of  the  Psalms  and  of  Greek 
Hymns,  accompanied  by  unknown  characters, 
serving  as  ancient  Greek  musical  notes.     They  are 


(2)  See  Dorville  on  Chariton,  pp.  49,  50. 


48  ISLAND    OF   PATMOS. 

chap,  the  same  which  the  Abbe  Barthelemy  and  other 
writers   have  noticed;     but   their  history   has 
never  been  illustrated.     Besides  these,  he  ob- 
served, in  a  Manuscript  of  very  diminutive  size, 
the  curious  work  of  Phile  upon  Animals1,  con- 
taining an  account  of  the  Ibis,  bound  up  with 
twenty-three  other  Tracts  upon  a  great  variety 
of  subjects*.      After    removing  these  volumes 
from  a  quantity  of  Theological  writings,  detached 
fragments,    worm  eaten    wooden    covers    (that 
had  belonged  to  books  once  literally  bound  in 
boards),  scraps  of  parchment,  Lives  of  Hermits, 
and  other  litter,  all  further  inquiry  was  stopped 
by  the  promptitude  and  caution  of  Mr.  Riley, 
who  told  us  the  Superior  had  agreed  to  sell  the 
few  articles  we  had  selected,  but  that  it  would 
be  impossible  to  purchase  more  ;  and  that  even 
these  would  be  lost,  if  we  ventured  to  expose 
them   to  the  observation  of  any  of  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  town.     Then  telling  us  what  sum  he 
had  agreed   to  give  for  them,  he  concealed  two 
of  the   smaller   volumes    in    the    folds   of   his 
Turkish   habit,  entrusting  to  the  honour  of  the 
two  Caloyers  the  task  of  conveying  the  others 


(1)  Tov  $1X1?  **£pi  gutty  ISiotijto^  Sid  <rrix*v. 

(3)  See  Profewor  Oaitford's  "  Cutalogus  $ive  Notitia  Manutcrip- 
torum"  fc.p.  02.     Oxen.  1812. 


\ 


ISLAND    OF    PATMOS.  49 


on  board  our  vessel  in  the  harbour.  Upon  this  chap. 
honour,  it  must  be  confessed,  we  did  not  rely  «-*%rw 
with  so  much  confidence  as  we  ought  to  have 
done ;  but  as  there  was  no  other  method  which 
promised  any  chance  of  success,  we  were  forced 
to  comply  ;  and  we  left,  as  we  believed,  the 
most  valuable  part  of  our  acquisition  in  very 
doubtful  hands*  Just  as  we  had  concluded  this 
bargain,  the  French  Commissary  returned  ;  and 
finding  us  busied  in  the  Library,  afforded  an 
amusing  specimen  of  the  sort  of  system  pur- 
sued by  his  countrymen,  upon  such  occasions. 
"  Do  you  find,"  said  he,  "  any  thing  worth  your 
notice,  among  all  this  rubbish  ?"  We  answered, 
that  there  were  many  things  we  would  gladly 
purchase.  "  Purchase  !"  he  added,  "  I  should 
never  think  of  purchasing  from  such  a  herd  of 
swine:  if  I  saw  any  thing  I  might  require,  I 
should,  without  ceremony,  put  it  in  my  pocket, 
and  say,  Bon  jour !" 

After  this,  some  keys  were  produced,  belong- 
ing to  an  old  chest  that  stood  opposite  to  the 
door  of  the  Library ;  and  we  were  shewn  a  few 
antiquities  which  the  monks  had  been  taught 
to    consider  as   valuable.      Among   these,    the  8CriP* "» 

&  '  the  hand- 

first   thing   they  shewed  to   us  was   an   origi-  writing  0f 

Alexius 

kal    Letter    from    the    Emperor     Alexius  Comnenu*. 

VOL.   VI.  e 


50  ISLAND   OF    PATMOS. 

chap.  Comnenus,  concerning  the  establishment  of 
their  Monastery,  inscribed  upon  a  large  roll, 
and  precisely  corresponding,  in  the  style  of  the 
manuscript,  with  the  fragment  preserved  by 
Montfaucon,  in  his  Palceographia1 .  Besides  this 
were  other  rolls  of  record,  the  deeds  of  suc- 
ceeding Emperors,  with  their  seals  affixed, 
relating  to  the  affairs  of  the  Convent.  We  cal- 
culated the  number  of  volumes  in  the  Library 
to  be  about  a  thousand  ;  and  of  this  number, 
above  two  hundred  were  in  manuscript.  After 
we  had  left  the  Library,  we  saw,  upon  a  shelf  in 
the  Refectory,  the  most  splendid  Manuscript 
of  the  whole  collection,  in  two  folio  volumes, 
richly  adorned :  it  was  called  the  Theology 
of  Gregory  of  Nazianzvs*,  and  purported  to 
be   throughout  in   the    handwriting   of   the 


(0  "  Impbratoris  Giubci  Epistol/b  Insighb  Fragmrntum. 
See  Montfaucon,  Palaog.  Qrmc.  p.  266.  Part*,  1708.  This  Epistle 
is  believed  by  Montfaucon  (from  the  remains  of  the  Signature 
****tantinus)  to  have  been  written  in  the  ninth  century,  by 
Constantinu*  Copronymus,  to  Pepin,  the  French  king.  The  style  of 
the  writing  very  much  resembles  that  which  is  now  lying  in  the  Library 
at  Pat  mot, 

(2)  Cave  mentions  a  work  of  Oregorius  Natianzenut  under  this 
title :  "  De  Theotogid  Orativnet  Y.  contra  Ewtomianoe  et  Macedo- 
nians:" (see  Sniptor.  Ecclesiast.  Hist.  Lit.  Saxulum  Arianum, 
p.  200.  Lond.  1688.)  but  the  Patmos  MS.  being  in  two  large  folio 
volumes,  in  all  probability  contains  other  of  Gregory'*  writings. 


ISLAND   OF    PATMOS.  51 


Emperor  Alexius3.      Nothing  could  be  more    chap. 
beautiful.     As  a  singular  circumstance,  it  may  ^^- 
also  be  mentioned,  that  we  saw  upon  the  same 
shelf,  and   by   the   side  of  this,   a  Manuscript 
of  the  writings  of  Gregory's  greatest  admirer, 
Erasmus. 

The  Capudan  Pasha's  letter  enabled  us  to 
order  bread  from  the  island  for  our  voyage  ;  and 
this  the  monks  promised  to  see  provided.  The  state  of 
inhabitants  import  wheat  from  the  Black  Sea;theU}9!ad' 
and  they  Jhave  twelve  small  vessels  engaged  in 
commerce,  with  which  they  trade  to  different 
ports  in  the  Euxine  and  to  the  Adriatic,  bringing 
corn  for  their  own  use,  and  also  carrying  it  as 
far  as  Ancona  in  Italy.  In  Tourneforfs  time, 
there  were  hardly  three  hundred  men  upon  the 
island,  and  at  least  twenty  women  to  one  man. 
The  population  remains  nearly  the  same  as  it 


(3)  This  MS.  is  noticed  in  the  Patmos  Catalogue  (See  the  beginning 
qf  this  volume,  p.  21.);  and  the  same  circumstance  is  related  of  the 
hand-writing  of  the  Emperor  Alexius:  it  is  there  called,  in  modern 
Greek,  "  A  work  of  Gregory  the  Theologian,  which  is  in  the  hand- 
writing of  the  Emperor  Alexius  Comnenuj ;  his  oum  hand-\oriting :" 
Tpnyooiov  rov  OtoXdyov  tva  /3t/3\iov,  rb  brrolov  tlvai  ypaif/tuov 
rov  /3a<rc\!«»c  'A\c£/ov  rov  Kouvnpov  rov  iBLov  ypdxpifiov.  There 
were,  however,  two  Calligraphic*  of  this  name  Alexius ;  the  one  wrote 
the  Lives  of  the  Saints  in  1202 ;  the  other,  a  MS.  of  Hippocrates  in 
the  fourteenth  century.  See  Montfaueon,  Pal,  Or.  lib.  i.  p.  94. 
Par.  171)8. 

E    2 


52 


ISLAND    OF   PATHOS. 


Ancient 
Medals. 


was  when  he  wrote ;   for,  as  it  is  observed  by 
Sonnini\  "  While  the  monasteries  swarm  with 
sluggards,  the  fields  become  deserts ;  and  popu- 
lation is  consequently  diminished."     Yet,  in  the 
neighbouring  isles,  Patmos  is  described  as  the 
University  of  the  Archipelago  :  it  is  hither  that 
the  Greek  families  send  their  sons  to  be  edu- 
cated, by  a  set  of  monks  unable  to  read  their 
own,  or  any  other  language.     After  we  left  the 
Monastery,  we  paid  a  visit  to  Mr.  Antonio  Gilly, 
the  Prussian  Consul,  of  whom   we   purchased 
several  Greek  medals.      Among   these,  were  a 
bronze  medal  of  JSleusis,  representing  Ceres  in 
her  car,  drawn  by  two  serpents,  with  a  sow  on 
the  reverse;  and  two  beautiful  gold  medals  of 
Lysmachus  and  of  Philip,  in  as  high  a  state  of 
preservation   as   if  they    had   been  just  issued 
from  the  mint.    The  freshness  of  their  appearance 
might  induce  a  suspicion  of  their  being  a  modern 
fabrication,  if  it  were  not  a  well-known  fact  that 
to  imitate  the  best  coinage  of  Thrace  and  Mace- 
donia is  impossible ;  and  therefore,  in  such  cases, 
we  may  defy  imposture.     The  present  price  of 
Greek  medals,  throughout  the  Levant,  is  gene- 
rally  the  same ;    unless   they   be  found,  as  it 


(1)  Travels  in  Greece,  ke.  p.  473.    Lond.  1801. 


ISLAND    OP    PATMOB.  53 

sometimes  happens,  in  the  hands  of  trading  chap. 
antiquaries  and  ignorant  pretenders  to  a  know*', 
ledge  of  antiquity,  when  the  most  absurd  and 
exorbitant  prices  are  set  upon  them.  The 
usual  rate  of  selling  them,  among  the  poor  arti- 
ficers in  gold  and  silver  found  in  almost  all  the 
towns,  is  this :  for  gold  medals,  twice  their 
weight  in  Venetian  sequins ;  for  silver,  from  two 
piastres  to  five,  or  six,  according  to  the  size; 
and  for  bronze2,  about  a  pard  for  each  medal. 
Hence  it  must  be  evident,  that,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  silver,  (which  are  generally  of  the 
highest  antiquity,  and  always  estimated  below 
their  present  price  in  England),  the  medals  of 
Greece  may  be  purchased  cheaper  in  London 
than  in  the  Levant.  Indeed  the  Grecian  copper 
coinage  is  now  considered  as  being  of  such 
modern  date,  that  it  is  little  valued  by  collectors 
of  Greek  medals3.  Roman  copper  is  found  in 
great  abundance ;  and  among  this  may  be  easily 
obtained  many  rare  and  valuable  coins,   illus- 


(2)  The  author  has  generally  used  the  word  bronze,  instead  of  brass, 
as  applied  to  Grecian  antiquities ;  and  for  this  reason :  antient 
bronze  consists  of  copper  containing  about  ten  per  cent*  of  tin,  and 
therefore  differs  from  brass,  which  is  a   compound  of  copper   and 


(3)  It  hat  been  sold  in  London  for  a  price  equivalent  to  the  weight 
«>f  the  metal. 


54  ISLAND    OP    PATMOS. 

chap,  trating  the  history  of  Grecian  cities,  where  no 
medals  were  struck  during  the  period  in  which 
they  were  governed  by  their  own  laws.  No 
medal  of  Patmos  has  been  discovered  ;  neither 
is  it  likely  that  any  ever  did  exist,  as  the  island 
was  hardly  inhabited  when  the  Romans  made  it 
a  place  of  exile.  The  gold  medals  sold  to  us  by 
the  Prussian  Consul,  were,  in  all  probability,  not 
found  upon  the  island,  but  brought  by  its  trading 
vessels :  it  is  a  common  occurrence  to  meet  with 
such  antiquities,  in  the  hands  of  Greek  sailors, 
who  collect  them  for  sale.  The  medal  of  Lysi- 
machus  exhibited,  as  usual,  a  fine  portrait  of  the 
deified  Alexander ;  whose  image,  "  expressed  on 
gold  or  silver,"  was  so  long  considered  as  pro- 
pitious to  its  possessor1.  Concerning  the  medals 
of  Lysimachns,  and  this  image,  the  author  must 
refer  to  a  former  work,  rather  than  repeat 
what  has  been  already  published*;  but  with 
regard  to  the  gold  medals  of  Philip,  bearing  the 
legend  ♦IAIPPOY,  so  much  doubt  has  gene- 
rally prevailed,  that  it  may  be  proper  to  add 
a  few  words  upon  the  subject.     It  has  been  usual 


(1)  "  Dicuntur  juvari  in  omni  acta  suo  qui  Alexandra m  ex prestum 
▼el  auro  gestitant  vel  argento."  TrebeU.  Pollio,  Quiet,  xiii.  p.  1000. 
Hist  Rom.  Script.  apudH.Stepk.X5CB. 

(2)  See  "  Tomb  of  Alexander."    Camb.  1806. 


ISLAND   OF    PATMOS  55 

to  attribute  them  to  Philip  the  Second,  the  chap. 
father  of  Alexander  the  Great,  simply  from  the 
circumstance  of  the  gold  mines  being  dis- 
covered during  his  time,  and  of  which  he  was  the 
possessor3.  There  is,  however,  much  greater 
probability  that  they  were  struck  during  the 
reign  of  Philip  Arid^eus,  and  for  the  following 
reasons  :  first,  that  some  of  them  have  the 
legend  BAZIAEflZ+IAirrOY,  a  title  not  found 
upon  Greek  medals  before  the  time  of  Alexander 
the  Great4;  secondly,  that  in  these  medals  the 
art  of  coining  was  carried  to  a  degree  of  per- 
fection unknown  in  any  former  period,  and  to 
which  it  never  afterwards  attained.  The 
medals  of  the  Macedonian  kings  before  the  age 
of  Alexander  have  no  resemblance,  whether  in 
form,  in  weight,  in  substance,  or  in  the  style 
of  their  fabrication,  to  those  which  bear  the 
name  of  Philip:  the  only  examples  to  be 
compared  with  them,  in  beauty  and  perfection 
of  workmanship,  are  those  of  Lysimachus ; 
and  even  these  are  in  a  certain  degree  inferior. 
Many  of  the  medals  of  Alexander  the  Great, 


(3)  PeUerin  Recoeil  de  Medailies  de  Rois,  p.  9.    Paris,  1763. 

(4)  Hardouin  and  Frcelich  ascribed  all  the  medals  with  this  legend 
to  Philip  Am  daub.  Echhel  maintained  a  different  opinion.  See 
Doctrina  Num.  Vet.    Pars  I.  vol.  II.  p.  94.     Vindobon.  1794. 


56  ISLAND   OF    PATMOS. 

chap,  although  remarkable  for  boldness  of  execution 
and  for  the  sharpness  of  the  die,  betray  some- 
thing of  the  rude  style  discernible  in  the 
coinage  of  his  predecessors,  although  the  art 
were  subsequently  carried  to  such  an  extra- 
ordinary point  of  perfection  during  the  reigns 
of  Lysimachus  and  of  Philip  Arid&us.  In  order 
to  form  a  correct  opinion  upon  this  subject, 
and  to  be  convinced  that  the  gold  coinage  now 
alluded  to  did  not  belong  to  the  age  of  Philip 
the  Second,  something  more  is  requisite  than 
the  examination  of  a  particular  medal:  it  is 
necessary  to  view  the  whole  series  of  the  coins 
of  the  Macedonian  kings,  and,  by  observing 
the  changes  introduced  into  their  mint,  to 
become  acquainted  with  the  style  which  denoted 
the  progress  of  the  art  at  any  particular 
period  ;  from  the  unfigured  reverses  and  indented 
squares  of  Alexander  the  First  and  of  Archelaiis, 
struck  nearly  five  centuries  before  the  Christian 
sera,  to  the  exquisite  perfection  of  design  and 
the  elegant  fabrication  visible  in  the  medals  of 
Macedon  and  Thrace,  under  the  immediate  suc- 
cessors of  Alexander  the  Great. 

A  few  of  the  inhabitants  came  to  the  Consul's 
house,  to  see  us.  Nothing  can  be  more  remark- 
able than  the  situation  of  the  town,  built  upon 


ISLAND   OF   PATMOS.  57 

the  edge  of  a  vast  crater,  sloping  off,  on  either    chap. 
side  like  the  roof  of  a  tiled  house.     Perry  has  ^v^ 
compared   it   to    "  an  ass's   back  ;*'    upon   the 
highest  ridge  of  which  stands  the  Monastery1. 
The  inhabitants,   therefore,  have  no  space   for 
exercise,  either  on  foot  or  on  horseback:  they 
can   only  descend  and  ascend   by  the   rugged 
path   that   leads  to   the   harbour.     On   one   of 
the  towers    of   the    Monastery,   a   look-out    is 
regularly  kept  for  the  pirates ;   the  view  here  extensive 
being  so  extensive,  that  no  vessel  can  approach  ^nmpee^ 
the   island   without   being  perceived.     We   re- 
turned, to  enjoy  the  prospect  from  this  place. 
The  sight  was  extremely  magnificent;  as  may 
be  conceived  by  any  reader  who  will  judge  from 
the  appearance  exhibited  by  the  island   itself, 
and  by  this  Monastery,  at  the  distance  of  six 
leagues  at  sea*.      We   commanded   the   whole 
Island  of  Amorgos,  which  is  nearly  forty  miles 
from  the  nearest  point  of  Patmo? ;   and  were 


(I)  Perrtfi  View  of  the  Levant,  p.  483.  Loud.  1743.  Toumefort 
makes  the  tame  comparison  with  reference  to  another  bland,  that  of 
St.  Mimas .-  "  Die  eat  faite  en  dos  d'ane."  Voyage  du  Levant,  tern.  II. 
Lett.  x.  p.  150.    Lyon,  1717. 

(9)  See  the  former  Section,  VoL  II.  of  the  Quarto  Edition,  Plate 
facing  p.  194. 

(3)  Thirteen  leagues,  according  to  the  Chart  of  VAnvilU,  published 
at  Peril,  October,  1756. 


58  ISLAND   OP   PATMOS. 


chap,   surrounded  by  many  of   the   grandest  objects 
in  the  Archipelago. 


Grotto. 


Holy  As  we  descended  from  the  great  Monastery 

of  St.  John,  we  turned  off,  upon  our  right,  to 
visit  a  smaller  edifice  of  the  same  nature, 
erected  over  a  cave,  or  grot,  where  the  Apo- 
calypse, attributed  to  that  Evangelist,  is  said  to 
have  been  written.  It  can  hardly  be  considered 
as  any  other  than  a  hermitage,  and  it  is  en- 
tirely dependent  upon  the  principal  Monastery. 
As  to  the  cave  itself,  whence  this  building 
derives  its  origin,  and  to  which  it  owes  all  its 
pretended  sanctity,  it  may  be  supposed  that 
any  other  cave  would  have  answered  the  pur- 
pose fully  as  well :  it  is  not  spacious  enough 
to  have  afforded  a  habitation  even  for  a  hermit ; 
and  there  is  not  the  slightest  probability  that 
any  thing  related  concerning  it,  by  the  monks, 
is  founded  in  truth.  The  reader  will  find  a  very 
accurate  representation  of  it  in  Tournefort\ 
shewing  the  crevices  of  the  stone  through  which 
it  is  pretended  that  the  Holy  Spirit  conveyed 
its  dictates  to  the  Apostle.  It  affords  another 
striking  proof,  in  addition  to  many  already 
enumerated,  that  there  is  no  degree  of  absurdity 


(1)  Voyage  du  Levant,  torn.  II.  p.  146.    <k  Lyon, 


1717. 


\ 


\ 

v 


ISLAND    OP  PATMOS.  59 

too -gross  for  the  purposes  of  altarage  and  super-  chap. 
stition.  There  seemed  to  be  something  like  v^v^s 
a  school  held  in  the  building  erected  about 
this  cave ;  but  the  only  monk  who  shewed  the 
place  to  us,  and  who  appeared  to  superintend 
the  seminary,  was  not  much  better  informed 
than  his  godly  brethren  in  the  parent  monas- 
tery*. 

Descending  ftbm  this  place  towards  the  Port  Di«m«* 

°  *  given  by 

of  La  Scala,  we  were  met  by  several  of  the  the  French 

J  Officers. 

Frenchmen^  coming  with  the  Commissary  to 
invite  us  to  dinner :  so  grateful  were  they  for 
the  attention  paid  to  their  request,  and  the 
consequent  safety  of  their  baggage,  that  each 
seemed  to  strive  with  the  other  who  could 
render  us  the  greater  civility.  We  accepted 
their  invitation;  and  were  conducted  into  a 
warehouse  near  the  quay,  where  a  large 
table  was  prepared,  with  fish,  wine,  and  biscuit. 
Here  we  found  several  French  women,  conversing 
with  their  usual  gaiety;  and  we  all  sat  down 
together.  During  dinner,  the  conversation 
turned  upon  the  events  that  had  happened  in 


(9)  Mr.  WalpoU,  who  arrived  afterwards,  has  mentioned,  in  his 
Journal,  that  the  schoolmaster  wot  able  to  read.    He  found  him  read- 
ing a  Manuscript  of  the  Odyssey  of  Horner.    See  the  Extract  from 
Mr.  Walpole's  Journal,  in  a  preceding  page  of  this  Chapter. 


60  ISLAND   OF   PATMOS. 

chap.    Egypt ;  and,  as  each  began  to  boast  of  his  per- 
^v**"  sonal  prowess  in  the  late  campaign,  some  con- 
tradictions  took   place,   and   a   most   turbulent 
BarUuUmy.  scene  of  dispute  ensued.     In  the  midst  of  this, 
a  figure  entered  the  warehouse,  whose  appear- 
ance silenced  the  whole  party,  and  was  parti- 
cularly  gratifying    to    our   curiosity.      It   was 
Barthelemy,  the  famous  Greek  pirate,  who  en- 
gaged in  the  French  service  under  BuonapartS, 
and  was  chief  of  a  regiment  of  Mamalukes  in 
Egypt.     His   figure   was   uncommonly  martial 
and  dignified  :  he  wore  the  Mamaluke  dress,  and 
carried  a  large  knotted  club  as  a  walking-staff. 
Placing  himself  at  the  table,  he  began  to  com- 
plain, in  a  very  hoarse  voice,  of  the  treatment 
he  had  experienced,  which  he  stated  to  he  con- 
trary to  the  most  solemn  stipulations ;  contrary 
to  his  deserts ;  and  highly  dishonourable  to  the 
French  army,  for  whom  he  had  fought  so  many 
battles,   and    made  such  important    sacrifices. 
They  made  free,  it  seemed,  with  his  women; 
of  whom  he  had  many,  that  he  was  conveying, 
as  his  property,  to  France.     One  or  two  of  the 
principal  persons  present  endeavoured  to  pacify 
him,   by  the  assurance  that  he  should  not  be 
molested  in  future;   and  filling  a  large  goblet 
of  wine,  proposed  to  him  to  drink  "  Success  to 
the  Republic,  and  the  liberation  of  Greece."    The 


\ 
v 


ISLAND   OF   PATMOS.  61 

wary  old  Corsair  did  not  appear   to  relish  the  chap. 
toast;   and  had   probably,   by  this    time,   both 
heard  and  seen  quite  enough  of  Gallic  emanci- 
pation. 

We  remained  near  a  week  at  Patmos.     The 
next  day  we  revisited  the  Monastery,  and  were 
again    admitted  to    the     Library.     We    found 
it  would  be  impossible  to  purchase  any  other 
Manuscripts  than  those  for  which  we  had  sti- 
pulated ;  for  upon  this,  and  every   subsequent 
occasion,    some  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  town 
thought  proper  to  accompany  us  to  the  Con- 
vent.     The   Superior  took   occasion  to   assure 
us,  that  both  he  and  the  Bursar  were  willing 
enough  to  part  with  the   xHP°7Pa4>a  >  but  that  if 
it  were  known  to  have  brought  them  any  gain, 
the  people  of  Patmos,  acting  as  spies  for  the 
Capudan  Pasha,  would  make  it  the  cause  of  a 
very  heavy   imposition    upon    the    Monastery. 
We    could  not  procure  a  Catalogue,  either  of 
the    Manuscripts    or    of    the    printed    books1. 

(1)  The  Marquis  of  SHgo  afterwards  visited  Patmos,  and  obtained 
the  Catalogue  alluded  to  in  a  preceding  Note  :  it  is  written  in  modem 
Greek,  and  contains  a  List  of  all  the  Books  in  the  Patmos  Library. 
This  Catalogue  his  Lordship  kiudly  presented  to  the  author.  Nothing 
n  said  in  it  as  to  the  editions  of  the  different  authors,  nor  a  syllable 
concerning  the  age  of  the  Manuscripts:  the  reader  is,  however,  re- 
ferred to  it,  for  more  detailed  information  concerning  the  latter ;  and 
to  the  Dissertation  by  Mr.  WalpoU,  in  the  beginning  of  this  volume. 


62  ISLAND   OF    PATMOS* 

chap.  This  day  we  dined  with  the  monks,  and  after* 
L  wards  went  again  into  the  town.  The  women 
of  the  island,  here  collected  as  it  were  upon  a 
single  point,  are  so  generally  handsome,  that 
it  is  an  uncommon  sight  to  meet  with  any  who 
are  otherwise.  Their  houses  are  kept  very 
clean:  it  is  customary  with  them  to  raise 
their  beds  at  least  ten  feet  from  the  floor, 
and  they  ascend  to  them  by  steps.  Dapper 
mentions  several  villages  in  Patmos,  existing  at 
present  only  in  his  work1.  The  island  pro- 
duces very  little  wheat,  and  still  less  barley : 
even  the  corn  consumed  in  the  Monastery  is 
brought  from  the  Black  Sea..  There  are  several 
bells  at  the  Monastery,  which  the  monks  are 
frequently  ringing.  The  enjoyment  of  this 
noise  is  considered  as  a  great  indulgence ;  bells 
being  prohibited  by  the  Turks.  Dapper  says, 
that,  excepting  upon  Mount  Libanns,  Patmos  is 
the  only  place  in  all  the  Turkish  empire  where 
bells  may  be  heard* :  in  this  he  is,  however, 
mistaken,  for  Naxos  has  the  same  privilege. 

The  whole  of  Sunday,  October  the  eleventh, 
was  passed  in  great  anxiety,  being  the  day  on 
which    the    Superior    of    the    Monastery    had 


Bells. 


(1)  Dapper,  Description  des  Isles  de  VArehipelp.  181.  Amti.  1703. 

(2)  Ibid.  p.  180. 


ISLAND   OF    PATMOS.  63 

engaged  to   send   the    remaining    Manuscripts    CHAP 
purchased  by  the  author  from  the  Library.     Mr.       L 
Riley  had  left  Patmos  for  Constantinople ;  and  we 
began  to  fear,  as  the  evening  approached,  that 
his  absence    might   become   the  pretext   for  a 
breach  of  contract  on  the   part  of  the  monks. 
Towards  sun-set,  being  upon  the  deck  of  our 
caique,  and   looking  towards  the  mountain,  we 
discerned    a   person    coming   down   the    steep 
descent  from   the  Monastery  towards  the  port  ; 
presently,   as  he  drew  near,  we  perceived  that 
he  had  a  large  basket  upon  his  head,  and  that 
he  was  coming  towards  the  quay,  opposite   to 
the  spot  where  our  vessel  was  at  anchor.     Upon 
his  arrival,  we   saw   him    making  signs  for   a 
boat;  and  we  sent  to  him  the  little  skiff  belong- 
ing to  our  caique.  As  he  came  alongside,  he  said,  stratagem 
aloud,  that  he  had  brought  the  bread  ordered  ing0the 
for  us   in   consequence   of  our  letter  from    the^Hpta?" 
Capudan  Pasha ;  but  coming  upon  deck,  he  gave 
a  signi&caut   wink,  and   told   us  the  Superior 
desired    that    we    would    "empty    the   basket 
ourselves,    and  count    the  loaves,    to  see    that 
all  was  right."     We  took  the  hint,  and  hurried 
with  the  precious  charge  into  our  birth;  where, 
having  turned  the  basket  bottom  upwards,   we 
found,  to   our   great    joy,    the   Manuscript   of 
Plato,  the   Poems  of  Gregory,  the   work   of 


64 


ISLAND    OF    PATMOS. 


chap.  Phile,  with  the  other  Tracts,  the  two  volumes 
^v-w  containing  the  Greek  Musical  Notes,  and  the 
volume  of  Miscellanies  containing  the  Lexicon 
op  St.  Cyrill:  these  we  instantly  concealed 
beneath  a  mattress  in  one  of  our  cots ;  and 
making  a  grand  display  of  the  loaves,  returned 
with  the  basket  upon  deck,  giving  a  handsome 
present  to  the  porter,  and  desiring  he  would 
inform  the  Superior,  with  our  most  grateful 
acknowledgments,  that  "  all  was  perfectly  right" 
Having  set  him  again  on  shore,  we  gave  orders 
to  our  Captain  to  have;  every  thing  ready  for 
sailing  the  next  morning,  and  to  stand  out  of 
the  port  as  soon  after  sun-rise  as  possible;  in- 
tending to  leave  Patmos. 

In  this  design  we  were,  however,  disap- 
pointed ;  but  as  the  delay  which  ensued  gave  us 
an  opportunity  of  discovering  some  curious 
geological  phaenomena,  we  had  no  reason  to 
regret  that  we  were  thus  detained. 

FmitieM  At  seven  o'clock  the  next  morning,  the  wind 
leave  the  served,  and  we  hoisted  sail.  Steering  east  out 
of  the  harbour,  and  then  putting  the  head  of 
our  caique  towards  the  north,  we  endeavoured 
to  double  the  north-eastern  point  of  the  island. 
Tournefort,  who  is  always  accurate,  published, 


\ 


ISLAND   OF   P  ATM  OS.  65 

a  century  ago,  a  better  map  of  Patmas  than  can  chap. 
be  found  in  any  other  work1.  Such  is  often  the 
inaccuracy  of  Dapper,  notwithstanding  the  in- 
dustry shewn  in  his  compilation  relative  to  the 
islands  of  the  Archipelago,  that  he  describes  the 
harbour  of  La  Scala  as  on  the  western  side  of  the 
island,  opposite  to  the  Isle  of  Naxos* ;  perhaps 
confounding  it  with  Tournef art's  Port  de  Merica. 
Patmos  has  many  ports  ;  and  from  this  cause 
it  is  so  much  infested  by  pirates,  who  resort  to 
the  port  of  La  Scala  to  careen  their  vessels,  and 
for  fresh  water.  During  the  last  war  main- 
tained by  the  Venetians  against  Candia,  La  Scala 
was  the  wintering-place  of  their  fleet :  there  are 
many  ruined  buildings  near  the  quay.  The 
most  contradictory  accounts  have  been  pub- 
lished of  the  island ;  some  describing  it  as  the 
most  barren  rock  of  the  Archipelago*,  and  others 


(1)  See  the  Vignette  to  thU  Chapter,  taken   from  the  edition  of 
Lm,  17)7,  torn.  II.  p.  140 ;  and  engraved  with  little  addition. 

(2)  "Lemeffleor  port  de  cette  tie  et  tout  YArckipel  eat  an  devant 
da  la  rille  de  Patino,  da  cote  cT Occident  f  *is-a  ?is  de  Hie  de  Naxos. 
H  e«t  generalement  conno.  pmrmi  lea  mariniera  tons  le  nom  de  La 
8*la.M  (Description  des  Isles derArchipel.  p.  179.  Amst.  1703.)  To 
t*fa  miatakea  a  compiler  may  be  liable ;  bat  when  he  undertakes  to 
explain  the  legends  upon  Greek  medals,  the  reader  Is  little  prepared  for 
u  interpretation  like  the  following.  "  KOINONKrnPIQN,  c'est  a 
*«,  Comon  de*  Cyprisns.  Ce  Conon  etoit  apparemment  le  fondateur 
^temple"!!!     Ibid. p.  529. 

(3)  Tournefortj  torn.  II.  p.  142.    Lyon,  1717. 

VOL.    VI.  F 


66  ISLAND   OF   PATM08. 

chap,  extolling  its  fertility1.  From  all  that  we  could 
v^-v^/  collect  upon  the  subject,  it  is  as  capable  of 
repaying  the  labours  of  husbandry  as  any  other 
of  the  neighbouring  isles,  were  it  not  for  the 
danger  to  which  property  is  exposed,  from  the 
continual  incursions  of  the  pirates.  Its  har- 
bours render  it  an  important  station,  as  a  place 
of  commerce  :  but  the  circumference  of  the 
whole  island  does  not  exceed  eighteen  miles, 
although,  according  to  Pliny,  it  be  equal  to 
thirty*.  It  seems  to  have  been  hardly  known 
before  the  Christian  sera.  Strabo  merely  notices 
its  situation  as  one  of  the  Sporades,  near  to 
AmorgoSj  Lebinthus,  and  Leria*. 

view  of        As  we  sailed  to  the  northward  of  the  island. 

Samos,  #  7 

we  were  surprised  to  see  Samos  so  distinctly  in 
view.  It  is  hardly  possible  that  the  relative 
situation  of  Samos  and  Patmos  can  be  accurately 
laid  down  in  Dy  Antilles,  or  any  more  recent 
chart  :  for  keeping  up  to  windward,  we  found 
ourselves  to  be  so  close  under  Samos,  that  we  had 
a   clear  view,   both   of  the  island   and   of  the 


(1)  Dapper,  p.  179.  Amtt.  1703.     Gcorgirenez,  fa. 

(2)  Hiat.  Nat.  lib.  iv.  cap.  18.  torn.  I.  p.  224.     L.  Bat.  16S5. 

(3)  UXrjaiov  &  l<rrl  gal  ij  TLarpoq,  r.  r.  X.  Strabon  Oeoa.  lib.  xviLp. 
712.  Oxon.  1807. 


ISLE    OF   SAMOS.  67 

town4.  This  island,  the  most  conspicuous  ob-  chap. 
ject,  not  only  of  the  Ionian  Sea,  but  of  all  the 
JEgean,  is  less  visited,  and  of  course  less  known, 
than  any  other ;  it  is  one  of  the  largest  and 
most  considerable  of  them  ull ;  and  so  near  to 
the  main  land,  that  it  has  been  affirmed  persons 
upon  the  opposite  coasts  may  hear  each  other 
speak5.  The  generality  of  Greek  authors  de- 
scribe its  circumference  as  equal  to  eighty-seven 
and  a  half  of  our  miles.  Strabo  considers  it  as 
somewhat  less :  but  its  surprising  elevation  and 
relative  position,  with  regard  to  the  lower 
islands  of  Fourni  and  Nicaria,  make  it  a  land- 
mark all  over  the  Archipelago.  According  to 
Constantine  Porphyrogenitus  any  very  lofty  place 
was  called  Samof.  The  name  of  KATABATH 
was  antiently  given  to  the  terrible  rock  which 
forms  the  cape  and  precipice  upon  its  western 
side,  as  collecting  the  clouds,  and  generating 
thunder :  Jupiter  the  Thunderer being  also  called 
Kara/Sarii?  Zcuc7.      One    of  the    monasteries    is 


(4)  The  relative  position  of  these  islands  seems  to  be  more  accu- 
rately delineated  in  the  old  Map  of  Antibnt  Greece,  by  William 
JhHOe,  dated  Paris,  October  1707. 

(5)  Dapper,  p.  190.    Amst.  1703. 

(6)  See  also  Tournefort,  torn.  IT.  lett.  3.     Lyon,  1717. 

(7)  Karafidriic  Zt$c,  xapa  xb  *ara/3i/3a£av  rbv  Ktpavvov.  Suidat. 
Jul.  Poll,  lib  i.  cap.  1.  Libanius,  Legat.  ad  Julian,    Pausan.    Eliac. 

prior 

F   2 


68  ISLE   OF  8AMOS. 

chap,  called  Tlavayta  /3pov§a,  Our  Lady  of  the  Thunder. 
There  are  four  nunneries  upon  the  island,  and 
above  three  hundred  private  chapels  ;  yet 
the  population  does  not  exceed  12,000  men ; 
which  is  explained  by  Toumefort,  who  says 
that  the  island  is  entirely  in  the  hands  of  church- 
men, possessing  seven  monasteries.  The  swarm 
of  Caloyers  and  Oreek  Papas  have  made  a  desert 
of  this  fine  island ;  where  all  the  qualification 
necessary  to  become  a  priest,  and  live  by  the 
industry  of  others,  is  the  talent  of  being  able 
to  repeat  mass  from  memory.  The  Bishop  of 
Samos,  who  is  also  Bishop  of  Nicaria,  enjoys 
an  annual  income  of  two  thousand  crowns  ;  and 
derives,  besides,  a  considerable  revenue  from 
the  important  services  he  renders  to  the  islanders, 
in  blessing  for  them  their  water  and  their  cattle 
in  the  beginning  of  May.  All  the  produce  of 
the  dairies  on  that  day  belongs  to  him  :  he  has 
also  two  beasts  out  of  every  herd1.  In  such  a 
state  of  affairs,  we  cannot  wonder  at  the  change 
that  has  taken  place  between  the  antient  and 
the  modern  population  of  Samos :  its  fertility  in 
former  ages  made  it  the  subject  of  proverbial 

■ 

prior  Pharnutus  in  Jovie  cognominibut,  speak  of  Jupiter  Kareufiartic, 
who  dart$  the  thunder.    See  also  Tournef,  Voy,  du  Leo,  torn,  II.  p, 
105.    Lyon,  1717 ;  whence  this  note  is  taken. 
(I)  See  Tournef.  Voy,  du  Lev,  torn,  II. p.  107.    Lyon,  1717. 


ISLE   OF  SAMOS.  69 

admiration  and  praise*.     It  is  related  in  Athe-  chap. 
that  the  fruit  and  rose  trees  of  the  island 


bore  twice  a  year3.  Tournefart  says,  that  Sarnos 
is  infested  with  wolves  ;  and  that  tigers  some- 
times arrive  from  the  main  land,  after  crossing 
the  little  Boccazf ;  thereby  confirming  an  obser- 
vation made  by  the  author  in  the  former 
section,  with  regard  to  the  existence  of  tigers  in 
Ada  Minor. 

Passing  across  the  great  Boccaze,  between 
Samos  and  Icaria,  we  were  much  struck  by  the 
extraordinary  intensity  of  the  deep  blue  colour 
of  the  sea ;  and  this,  which  is  as  much  a  distin- 
guishing characteristic  of  the  Archipelago  as  the 
brightness  of  its  sky,  has  been  noticed  by  no 
writer,  excepting  our  enchanting  bard,  whose 
poems  are  now  so  deservedly  the  theme  of 
general  praise5. 

As  evening  drew  on,  we  took  the  bearings  of 


(9)  'On  fifni  tai  6pvi0*v  yaXa  ;  taQdxtp  xov  gal  Mfvavfyog  l+tl- 
Striken.  Otog.  lib.  xir.  p.  914.    Ed.  Oxon. 

(3)  Athen.  BHpn,  lib.  sir. 

(4)  Voyage  du  Lee.  torn.  II.  p.  119.    Lycn,  1717. 

(5)  "  He  that  has  sailed  upon  the  dark  blue  sea, 

"  Has  viewed  at  times,  I  ween,  a  full  fair  sight." 

Byron'i*  Child*  Harold,"  p.  &.    Lomd.  1812. 


70  I  C  A  R  I  A. 

chap,   the  principal  headlands  then  in  view;  and  found 
them  to  be  accurately  as  follow : 

Faurni n. 

Santos n.  n.  e. 

Asiatic  Coast    ....  e.  n.  e. 

La  Scala,  Pattnos  Port.  s.  e. 

Groupe  of  small  Isles  s.  and  by  w. 

Island  called  Anguaro  s.  w. 

Amor g os s.  w.  and  by  w. 

Naxos w.  and  by  s. 

Cape  of  lcaria  .  .  .  .  n.  w.  &by  w.&w.n.w. 

Whenever  it  is  practicable  to  make  these  ob- 
servations at  sunset  in  the  Archipelago,  sur- 
rounded as  a  vessel  always  is  by  land,  they 
ought  to  be  carefully  noticed. 

After  sunset,  we  were  becalmed  off  the  Point 
of  lcaria;  and  remained,  during  part  of  the 
night,  in  a  state  of  great  apprehension,  owing 
to  the  fears  of  our  mariners  with  regard  to  the 
pirates.  Some  fires  were  exhibited  on  shore ; 
first  one,  and  then  another  above  it,  until  we 
saw  five  burning  at  the  same  time.  These  our 
Captain  maintained  to  be  signals  made  by 
corsairs  on  the  island,  who  were  collecting  to 
attack  our  vessel;  consequently  we  extinguished 
every  light  on  board,  and  began  to  row  with  all 
the  energy  in  our  power,  drawing  off  towards 


\ 


ICARIA.  71 

Naxos.  Icaria  is  at  present  one  of  the  grand 
resorts  of  these  predatory  rovers,  who  are 
always  upon  the  watch  for  ships  passing  the 
Boccaze  of  Santos*  Small  vessels,  unfortunately 
becalmed  near  to  their  haunts,  have  but  little 
chance  of  escaping.  Icaria  is  at  present  hardly 
known :  it  once  gave  name  to  the  Icarian  Sea1, 
and  had  two  towns  in  the  time  of  Pliny1.  These 
must  have  been  the  small  towns  mentioned  by 
Strabo*,  of  CEnoe,  and  Drepanum;  called,  in 
the  Doric  dialect,  Drecanum.  No  traveller  has 
sought  for  any  antiquities  upon  Icaria ;  yet  we 
are  further  informed  by  Strabo*,  that  it  had  a 
temple  of  Diana,  called  Tauropolium ;  and  Golt- 
zius  has  preserved  a  medal  of  the  island,  with  the 
legend  IKAPII2N,  representing  Europa  passing 
the  sea  upon  a  bull,  with  the  effigy  of  Diana, 
armed  with  a  bow,  and  accompanied  by  a 
hound,  upon  the  reverse.  It  received  the  name 
of  Icaria,  from  the  story  of  the  flight  of  Icarus 
from  Crete,  whose  body,  fabled  to  have  been  cast 
upon  this  island,  after  falling  into  the  JEgean, 


(1)  Nif<roc  v  'Uapia,  &+'  i}c  rb  'Uaptov  rt\ayo£.    Strabon.  Geog.  lib. 
lit.  p.  915.    Ooti.  1807. 

"  Icarus  Icarus  nomina  fecit  aquis." 

Ovid.  Trist.  lib.  ill.  El.  4.  v.  22. 

(2)  "  Cam  oppidii  duobus,  tertio  amisso."    Hist.  Nat.  lib.  cap.  12, 
torn.  I.  p.  223.    L.  Bat.  1035. 

(3)  Strabon.    Geog.  ubi  supra. 

(4)  Ibid. 


72  RETURN    TO    PATMOS. 

chap.  wa8  buried  by  Hercules1 ;  and  this  antient  name 
*^v^  it  retains  to  the  present  day8.  The  Italians,  but 
more  especially  the  French,  have  introduced  a 
number  of  appellations  for  the  islands  of  the 
Archipelago,  which  do  not  exist  among  the  Greeks: 
thus  Icaria  has  been  often  called  Naccari ;  Cos, 
Stanchio;  and  Crete  almost  always  bears  the 
name  of  Candia.  Our  Casiot  mariners,  in  their 
common  conversation,  called  these  islands  seve- 
rally, Icaria,  Cos,  and  Crete  ;  never  using  the 
words,  Naccari,  Stanchio,  and  Candia. 

After  labouring  for  several  hours,  the  wind 
began  to  come  in  squalls  from  the  south-west, 
directly  contrary  to  our  course  for  Naxos ;  the 
sky  at  the  same  time  lowering,  with  flashes  of 
lightning,  to  windward ;  a  never-failing  indi- 
cation of  violent  gales  in  these  seas.  Our  Cap- 
tain proposed  that  we  should  run  for  the  first 
port  on  the  western  side  of  Patmos :  to  this  we 
gladly  consented;  and  especially  because  he 
declared  himself  to  be  well  acquainted  with  the 
entrance  to  a  small  harbour  on  that  side  of  the 
Port  of  island.  As  the  daylight  began  to  appear,  we 
found   ourselves   close   under  some  very   high 


(1)  Pomp.  Mela,  ii.  cap.  7.     PtoUm.  5.  cap.  2.    Strab.  uW  supra. 

(3)  Tournefort  made  the  same  observation :  *  Nicaria  n'a  pas 
change  de  nom,  elle  s'appelle  Icaria,  tout  eomme  autrefois."  Toy.  dm 
Lev.  torn.  II. p.  06*    Lyon,  1717. 


ISLAND   OF   PATMOS.  73 

cliffs,  in  the   face  of  which   appeared   a  dark   chap. 
chasm,  the  narrow  mouth  of  this  port.     Through    w/*s 
this  passage  we  entered ;    and,  having  brought 
our  vessel  to  anchor,  perceived  that  the  harbour 
in  which  we  were  now  stationed  was  opposite 
to  that  of  La   Scaler  being  separated  from  it 
only  by  a  small  isthmus.      It  proved  to  be  a 
fine,  clear  day.     The  mercury  in  Fahrenheit* 
thermometer  stood,  at  noon,  at  75£.     Soon  after 
coming  to  anchor,  the  author  landed,  with  a 
view  of  examining  the   cliffs;    as  the  ports  of 
the  island  have  the  appearance  of  craters,  and 
substances  resembling  lava  are  common  among 
the  fragments  of  its  rocks.     The  Monastery  of 
St.  John  is  situate  upon  the  highest  verge  of 
a  crater  of  this  description ;  and  the  harbour  of 
La  Scala  owes  its  origin  to  another.     Perhaps 
there  is  not  a  spot  in  the  Archipelago  with  more 
of  the  semblance  of  a  volcanic  origin  than  Patmos. 
The   cliffs   exhibit   no   form   of  regular   strata,  Geological 
but  one  immense  bed  of  a  porous  black  rock,  in  mwMu 
which  are  numerous  nuclei  of  a  white  colour, 
as  large  as  a  pullet's  egg,  in  the  form  of  crosses. 
Those  crosses  are,  of  course,  considered  by  the 
ignorant    inhabitants  as  so   many    miraculous 
apocalyptical  types:  and  it  is  singular  that  the 
monks  have  not,  as  is  usual  in  such  cases,  some 
marvellous  tale  to  relate  of  their  origin.     The 


74  ISLAND   OF   PATMOS. 

chap,  rock  itself,  upon  a  nearer  examination,  proved 
to  be  a  very  curious  porphyry  :  the  nuclei  were 
all  of  them  intersecting  crystals  of  feldspar, 
imbedded  in  decomposing  trap1.  Among  the 
geological  phenomena  of  the  Archipelago,  it  is 
perhaps  impossible  to  point  out  any  that  are 
more  worthy  of  observation  than  those  which 
are  exhibited  in  the  cliffs  surrounding  this 
remarkable  harbour ;  and  there  has  never  been 
exhibited  specimens  of  porphyry  where  the  crys- 
tals of  feldspar  are  in  any  degree  comparable  in 
size  with  those  which  are  now  mentioned.* 

(1)  We  succeeded  in  detaching  some  of  those  twin  crystals,  tolerably 
entire :  their  intersection  had  taken  place  obliquely  in  the  direction 
of  their  lateral  planes,  the  major  diameter  of  each  crystal  being 
parallel  to  that  of  its  associate.  Owing  to  this  intersection,  the 
appearance  of  a  cross  was  exhibited  whenever  the  nuclei,  by  weathering, 
had  been  worn  away  transversely,  so  as  to  become  level  with  the 
superficies  of  the  rock  in  which  they  were  imbedded.  This  relative 
position  and  their  colour  give  them  some  resemblanee  to  leucite; 
differing  from  leucite,  otherwise,  in  the  size  and  shape  of  the  crystals. 
Leucite  is,  however,  so  nearly  allied  to  feldspar,  that  were  it  not  for 
the  very  minute  portion  of  lime  which  is  found  in  the  latter,  their 
chemical  constituents  would  be  nearly  the  same,  and  in  the  same 
proportions;  and  possibly  the  double  cleavage  observed  by  Hauy  in 
the  former,  which  caused  him  to  bestow  upon  it  the  name  of  amphi- 
gene,  may  be  owing  to  some  circumstance  of  intersection  which  so 
commonly  characterizes  the  crystals  of  feldspar.  At  all  events,  it 
may  be  proposed  as  a  mineralogical  query,  "Whether,  if  leucite  be 
found  before  it  has  sustained  the  action  of  fire,  it  do  not  prove  to  be  a 
variety  of  Adularia  ?" 

(2)  Martin  Crusius,  in  his  annotations  upon  an  Epistle  of  Macarius 
(abbot  of  fatmot)  to  the  Greek  Patriarch,  in  1579,  has  cited  a  work 

printed 


i 
i 


ISLAND   OF    PATMOS.  75 

This  day,  Tuesday,  October  the  thirteenth)  we  chap. 
observed,  in  a  small  garden  near  this  harbour,  w%s 
a  Karob-tree  (Ceratonia  Siliqua)  in  bloom.  A  ****• 
few  shrubs  grew  among  the  rock9,  but  we  could 
procure  no  specimens  of  plants  worth  collecting 
for  our  herbary.  The  island  abounds  in  goats,  Animals. 
rabbits,  and  partridges.  In  the  evening,  we 
amused  ourselves  in  fishing,  and  caught  some 
red  mullets.  The  harbour  appeared  as  literally 
swarming  with  the  most  beautiful  fishes,  of  all 
colours.  We  perceived  some  that  were  green, 
others  that  were  blue,  and  again  others  that 
were  striped.  Our  sailors  taught  us  to  use 
small  shell-fish  for  our  baits ;  and  as  we  lowered 
these  to  the  bottom,  the  water  being  as  clear  as 
crystal,  the  fish,  tempted  from  their  haunts 
among  the  marine  plants  that  covered  the  rocks, 
were  seen  distinctly  whenever  they  took  the 
snare.  The  Cheeks  are  very  expert  fishermen, 
and  our  sailors  caught  many  more  than  we 
could  do;  they  had  also  a  curious  method  of 
luring  the  fish  out  of  the  spiral  shells  which  we 
found  here,  by  a  continued  and  gentle  tapping 


printed  at  Venice,  which  states  that  the  island  is  metalliferous.  "  La 
quale  insula,  e  montuota,  et  a'i  vcne  di  met  alii  eopiosa"  Vid.  Turco- 
Greeeia,  lib.  ir.  p.  302.    Basil,  sine  anno. 


7$ 


ISLAND   OF    PATMOS. 


Marble 
Cippus. 


of  the  shell  with  the  point  of  a  knife,  accom- 
panied by  a  tremulous  whistling.  We  found 
several  kinds  of  shell-fish  ;  and  could  discern 
some  large  scollops  lying  upon  the  rocks  beneath 
the  clear  still  water,  but  they  were  out  of  our 
reach.  Very  fine  spunges  might  also  be  gathered 
from  the  same  rocks,  all  around  the  bay.  It 
continued  calm  all  the  next  day.  The  author 
went  early  on  shore,  to  see  if  any  antiquities 
might  be  found  between  the  two  ports ;  and 
was  fortunate  enough  to  discover  two  Greek 
Marbles  ;  the  first  of  which,  a  bas-relief  with  an 
inscription,  he  purchased  and  brought  away.  It 
was  found  by  a  peasant  upon  a  small  rocky  isle 
near  to  the  mouth  of  the  harbour  of  La  Scala. 
The  sculpture  had  not  much  merit ;  but  any 
relic  is  worthy  of  notice  which  exhibits  an 
example  of  Grecian  sculpture  at  Patmos,  where 
no  antiquity  of  this  kind  has  hitherto  been  dis- 
covered. This  marble  is  a  sepulchral  tablet,  or 
Cippus,  as  distinguished  from  the  St&le,  and  it 
is  now  deposited  in  the  Vestibule  of  the  Uni- 
versity Library  at  Cambridge1.  The  subject 
represented  is  the  Death-bed  of   "  Aristeas 


(1)  See  "  Greek  AfarbUs,"  No.  XIII.  p.  11.    Comb.  1800. 


ISLAND  OF   P  ATM  OS.  77 

son  of  Zosimus."  A  dog  is  introduced  into  the  chap. 
design,  apparently  watching  for  the  moment  of 
dissolution.  This  figure,  denoting  the  Anubis 
of  the  Egyptians,  and  Hermes  of  the  Greeks, 
commonly  appears  upon  sepulchral  monuments, 
as  a  symbol  of  Mercury  the  conductor  of  the 
souls  of  the  dead.  Beneath  the  bas-relief  is 
this  inscription : 

APICTEAC 

ZOUMOY 

The  other  marble  was  also  a  cippus,  nearly  of 
the  same  form,  with  an  inscription  almost  as 
brief  as  the  preceding : 

AlOAflp  A 

XRHZTE 

X  A  I  p  E 

The  meaning  of  the  word  xa'P*  uPon  a  cippus 
will  hardly  admit  of  dispute.  The  Greeks  used 
it  when  they  drank  to  each  other's  health.  It 
is  the  common  form  of  salutation,  upon  almost 
every  Grecian  tombstone.  But  those  who  are 
curious  to  learn  its  various  significations,  when 
used  in  conversation  by  the  Greeks,  may  consult 
Lucian  himself;  who,  when  apprentice  to  his 
uncle,  had  often  employed  his  chisel  in  carving 
the  letters  of  a  word  on  stone,  which  he  after- 


78  ISLAND    OF    PATMOS. 

chap,   wards  used  as  the  subject  of  one  of  his  critical 
dissertations.1 


Departure  This  being  the  evening  of  the  sixth  day  since 
dim.  our  first  arrival  in  Patmos,  and  perhaps  being  as 
well  acquainted  with  it  as  if  we  had  spent  a 
year  in  its  examination,  we  became  impatient  to 
leave  it ;  and  began  to  fancy,  that  as  our  caique 
was  hired  by  the  month,  its  owners  would 
create  as  much  delay  as  possible,  and  loiter  in 
port  when  they  might  safely  venture  out.  Ac- 
cordingly, after  midnight,  having  roused  the 
Captain,  we  told  him  that  it  was  a  fine  night, 
and  that  we  wished  he  would  put  to  sea.  This 
man  was  one  of  the  most  experienced  pilots  of 
the  Archipelago,  and  as  worthy  a  Greek  as  ever 
navigated  these  seas ;  but  we  had  not  at  that 
time  learned  to  place  the  confidence  in  him 
which  he  so  highly  deserved.  He  was  very 
poor ;  and  having  become  a  widower  in  an  early 
period  of  his  life,  had  suffered  his  beard  to  grow, 
according  to  the  manner  of  mourning  in  his 
native  Isle  of  Casos,  wearing  at  the  same  time  a 
black  turban.  Without  making  any  answer  to 
our  proposal,  he  continued,   for  the  space  of  a 


(l)  Vid.  Luciani  Opera,  torn.  III.  p.  186.    "Pro  lap$u  in  Salu- 
tando.*9    Edit.  Reitz.    Bipont.  1790. 


r 


DEPARTURE   FROM    PATJfOS.  79 

minute,  looking  up  attentively,  with   his  eyes   chap. 
fixed  towards  the  zenith.     Presently  he  shook  v^v-^ 
his  head ;  and  pointing  upwards,  with  his  arm  tics  of 
extended,  asked   us,  How  we  liked   the  sky  ?  mariners. 
As  it  seemed  to  be  very  clear,  and  there  were 
many  stars  visible,  we  replied  that  there  was 
every  sign  of  fair  weather.     "  Do  yon  not  see," 
said  he,  "some  small  clouds,  which  now  and  then 
make  their  appearance,  and  instantly  afterwards 
vanish  V9     We  confessed  that  we  did  ;  but  rather 
hastily  insisted,  that  instead  of  peering  after 
signs  in  the  sky,  he  should  get  the  vessel  out  of 
harbour  as  speedily    as    possible.      His    only 
comment   upon   this   order,    so   inconsiderately 
given,   was   a  summons  to  his   companions  to 
heave  the  anchor,  and  hoist  the  sails.     We  had 
barely  light  enough  to  steer  through  the  narrow 
channel  at  the  entrance,  without  running  against 
the  rocks;   and  we  had  no  sooner  cleared  the 
port,  than  there  fell  a  dead  calm.     A  prodigious 
sea,    tossing  our  vessel  in    all  directions,    soon 
convinced  us  of  the  nature  of  the  situation  for 
which  we  had  exchanged  our  snug  birth  but  a 
few   minutes   before.     Surrounded    as   we   had 
been  by  the  lofty  cliffs  of  the  island,  we  had 
not  the  most  distant  conception  of  the  turbulent 
sea  we  should  encounter.     Our  steady   helms- 
man endeavoured  in  vain  to  keep  the  prow  of 


80  DEPARTURE    FROM    PATMOS. 

chap,  his  vessel  to  any  particular  point ;  and  calling 
to  our  interpreter,  bade  him  notice  what  he 
termed,  in  Greek,  "the  belching  of  the  deep"  This 
happens  during  the  roll  of  a  calm,  when  a  wave, 
lifted  to  a  great  height,  suddenly  subsides,  with 
a  deep  and  hollow  sound,  like  air  bursting 
through  a  narrow  channel.  Our  apprehensions 
has  already  got  the  better  of  our  indifference  to 
such  observations ;  and  in  a  very  different  tone 
of  voice  from  that  in  which  we  had  ordered  him 
out  of  port,  we  asked  the  Captain,  What  that 
noise  denoted  ?  He  calmly  replied,  that  it  was. 
generally  considered  as  a  bad  omen  ;  but  that 
he  more  disliked  the  appearance  which  he  had 
desired  us  to  notice  before  we  left  the  harbour. 
Being  by  this  time  heartily  sick  of  our  usurped 
authority,  we  begged  that  he  would  be  guided 
in  future  by  the  dictates  of  his  own  experience  ; 
and,  further,  requested  that  he  would  put  back 
into  port.  This  he  affirmed  to  be  impossible; 
that  he  would  not  venture  towards  a  lee-shore 
during  the  night  for  any  consideration.  We 
prepared  therefore  to  suffer,  as  we  had  deserved, 
for  our  extreme  folly  and  rashness,  and,  strange 
as  it  may  seem,  not  without  many  an  anxious 
thought  for  the  antient  Manuscripts  we  had  on 
board.  .  The  crew  lighted  a  wax  taper  before  a " 
small  picture  of  some  Saint  in  the  foreship  ;  all 


DEPARTURE  FROM  PATMOS.  81 

the  after-part  of  the  hold  being  occupied  by  our  chap. 
cots  and  baggage*  Here,  when  we  endeavoured 
to  lie  down  for  rest,  we  were  over-run  by 
swarms  of  stinking  cock-roaches1 :  we  remained 
therefore  sitting  upon  some  planks  that  we  had 
placed  to  serve  as  a  floor,  with  our  heads  touch- 
ing the  roof  which  the  deck  afforded,  sustaining 
the  violent  motion  of  the  vessel,  and  anxiously 
expecting  the  coming  of  the  morning. 


(1)  Blatta  Obiutuis.  Linn.  The  modern  Greets  call  it  Katsa- 
rida.  According  to  Sonmni,  they  consecrate,  the  festival  of  St. 
Oregmy  to  these  disgusting  and  troublesome  insects.  Trav.  in  Greece, 
p.  186.    Zonrf.  1801. 


VOL.    VI. 


CHAP.  II. 


PATH09  TO  PAROS. 

Gale  of  wind — Vessel  driven  to  the  South  of 
Nazos — Panormo — Independent  Shepherds — 
Appearance  of  the  island — Minerals — Naxian 
Boccaze — Town  of  Naxos — Manuscripts — In- 
habitants— Population — Antiquities — Inscry>- 
tions  —Sculpture —  Medals  —  Gems —  Colossal 
Statue  —Temple  of  Bacchus — Other  Ruins — 
Smeriglio — Arrival  at  Paros  —  Parecha  — 
Castle — Inscriptions — Ship  stranded — Anti- 
paros — Grotto  —  its  possible  origin — mode  of 
descent — description  of  the  interior — Nature  of 
the  Stalactites — manner  of  their  deposition — 


PATMOS   TO   PAROS.  83 

Paradoxical  Phenomena — Crystallization  of 
Alabaster — Arragonite — Visit  of  the  French 
Ambassador — Oliaros — Antient  Quarries  of 
Parian  Marble — Marpessus — Cause  of  the 
prevalence  of  Parian  Marble  in  Grecian  Sculp- 
ture— Marvellous  skill  of  the  Antients  in  work- 
ing  the  Quarries—  Bas-relief —Explanation  of 
the  Inscription —  Origin  of  the  work — Evidence 
it  affords —  Theory  of  Crystallization. 


For  some  time    after    leaving    the  port,    we   chap. 

endeavoured,  by  hoisting  canvas,  to  avail  our-  v^v^* 
selves  of  the  short  gusts  of  land-wind  that  came 
from  the  east  during  the  calm  ;  a  heavy  and 
unsteady  sea  rolling.  Afterwards,  a  light  breeze 
prevailing  from  that  quarter,  we  were  enabled 
to  stand  over  to  Icaiia ;  where  we  were  entirely 
becalmed  :  and  the  usual  alarm  taking  place,  as 
to  pirates  upon  the  coast,  we  hauled  off  with 
our  oars.  Towards  morning,  a  fresh  wind  y^jf 
sprung  from  the  north-west,  accompanied  by 
flashes  of  lightning ;  and  we  directed  the  prow 
of  our  caique  towards  Naxos.  As  the  sun  rose, 
the  sky  bore  a  very  angry  aspect ;  the  horizon 
being  of  the  deepest  crimson,  interspersed  with 
dark  clouds.  We  soon  perceived  that  the  pre- 
diction made  by  the  Casiot  master  of  our  vessel 
would  be  fulfilled,  and  that  we  should  encounter 

g  2 


84  PATMOS   TO    PAROS. 

a  storm.  The  high  land  of  Icaria  sheltered  us 
until  we  got  farther  towards  the  south-west ;  when 
the  gale  freshened,  and  came  upon  us  with  such 
violence,  that  we  could  not  keep  our  course. 
All  our  endeavours  to  beat  to  windward,  so  as 
to  weather  the  northern  point  of  Nazos,  and 
bear  down  the  strait  between  that  island  and 
Parosy  were  ineffectual :  we  fell  fast  to  leeward  ; 
and  getting  among  some  rocks  upon  the  eastern 
side  of  Naxos9  the  foresail  was  carried  away. 
The  first  notice  that  we  received  of  this  accident, 
came  with  a  wave,  which  broke  over  the  caique, 
and  almost  filled  our  birth :  it  was  fortunate  that 
those  upon  deck  were  not  washed  overboard. 
We  made  our  way  up  as  well  as  we  could,  ex- 
pecting  every  iustant  that  something  more  serious 
would  happen.  The  waves  ran  mountains  high, 
and  the  caique  would  not  answer  to  her  helm. 
During  the  delay  caused  by  getting  the  foresail 
repaired,  we  shipped  water  continually;  and 
being  obliged  to  take  the  gale  in  poop,  such  a 
sea  followed  us,  that  there  was  reason  to  fear,  if 
the  mainsail  gave  way,  the  vessel  would  founder. 
When  matters  were  somewhat  rectified,  we 
steered  for  a  narrow  channel  between  some  high 
rocks  and  the  eastern  side  of  the  island  :  it 
seemed  rather  like  flying  than  sailing :  our  little 
caique  ran  over  the  curling  tops  of  the  highest 


ISLAND   OF   NAXOS.  85 

waves,  without  shipping  any  more  water.     This   chap. 
was    remarked    by    our    undaunted    Captain,  v^v^/ 
stationed    with    his    crew    at    the    helm,   who 
exclaimed,  "  Let  us  see  one  of  your  frigates  in 
such  a  sea  as  this :    there  is  not  one  of  them 
could  weather  it  like  my  little  caique!99     Wev«w* 
passed  like  lightning  within  a  cable's  length  of  the  south 
some  dreadful  rocks,  over  which  the  sea  was       """" 
dashing  as  high  as  our  mast  head  ;  until  getting 
under  the  lee,  to  the  south  of  Naxos,  we  ran  the 
vessel  aground,  close   to  a  small  creek,   upon 
some  white  sand. 

Within  this  creek  another  small  bark  had  taken 
shelter ;  the  crew  of  which,  seeing  our  situation, 
came  to  assist  our  Captain  in  getting  his  caique  off 
the  sand,  and  in  hauling  her  farther  up  the  creek, 
in  which  they  happily  succeeded.  We  then  cast 
anchor,  and  began  to  examine  the  state  of  our 
baggage.  Like  true  shipwrecked  mariners,  wet 
to  the  skin,  and  without  a  dry  thread  on  board, 
we  opened  all  our  stores  upon  the  rocks,  to 
expose  our  clothes  in  the  beams  of  the  sun. 
Every  article  of  our  linen  was  completely  soaked  : 
but,  to  our  great  joy,  the  Patmos  Manuscripts 
had  escaped,  and  were  safe.  We  had  put  them 
into  a  small,  but  stout  wooden  box,  in  the 
stern  of  the  vessel ;  and  had  covered  this  with 


86  ISLAND    OF    NAX08. 

chap,  every   article   of   canvas,   &c.     that    could   be 
collected. 


The  gale  continuing  from  the  same  quarter, 
and  with  the  force  of  a  hurricane,  we  were 
detained  here  during  this  and  the  following  day. 
It  is  surprising  for  what  a  length  of  time,  and  how 
often,  the  north-west  rages  in  the  Archipelago. 
It  prevails,  almost  unceasingly,  through  the 
greater  part  of  the  year.  After  sun-set,  there  is 
generally  a  calm,  which  is  succeeded  by  light 
breezes  from  the  land,  especially  from  mountains 
surrounding  gulphs :  but  at  sun-rise  the  north- 

Panormo.  we8t  begins  again.1  The  little  creek  in  which 
our  vessel  found  shelter  is  called,  by  the  islanders, 
the  Bay  of  Panormo ;  and  there  are  some  insigni- 
ficant ruins  upon  the  rocks  above  it,  which  they 

T  ,  call  Panormo  Castle*.     The  only  inhabitants  we 

Indepen*  J 

dent  shep-  saw  were  parties  of  men  leading  uninterruptedly 
a  pastoral  life,  without  paying  any  lax,  either  to 


(1)  Mr.  Spenser  Smith,  brother  of  Sir  Sidney  Smith,  informed  the 
author  that  he  was  an  entire  month  employed  in  endeavouring  to  effect 
a  passage  from  Rhodes  to  Stanehio  :  the  north-west  wind  prevailed  all 
the  time  with  such  force,  that  the  vessel  in  which  he  sailed  could  not 
doable  Cape  Crio. 

(2)  Tournefort  mentions  this  little  harbour,  under  the  name  of 
Panormo.  (  Voy.  du  Levant,  torn.  I.  p.  248.  Lyon,  1717.)  None  of  the 
ports  of  Naxot  are  proper  for  the  reception  of  large  vessels,  and  there- 
fore it  is  that  Tavemier  says  the  island  has  no  ports. 


ISLAND   OF    NAXOS.  87 

the  island  or  to  the  Turkish  Government:  we  chap. 
found  them  tending  their  sheep  and  goats  in  this  ^JJJ; 
wild  part  of  Naxos,  like  a  race  of  primeval  shep- 
herds3. They  brought  us  some  sheep  soon 
after  our  arrival ;  descending  the  rocks  with 
their  bare  feet,  and  wearing  apon  their  legs  the 
cothurnus,  in  its  most  antient  form,  made  of  the 
undressed  skins  of  their  goats,  with  the  hair  on 
the  outside.  Whence  they  came,  or  who  they 
were,  we  could  not  learn;  for  they  said  they 
had  little  connection  with  any  of  the  villages  of 
the  island,  nor  any  settled  place  of  residence  ; 
that  they  had  neither  wives  nor  houses ;  sleep- 
ing at  night  behind  some  bush  in  the  open  air, 
and  labouring  merely  for  subsistence,  without  a 
thought  of  riches.  They  had  all  the  same  kind 
of  clothing :  it  consisted  of  a  woollen  jacket, 
and  short  trowsers,  of  their  own  manufacture, 


(3)  According  to  Herodotus,  the  most  antient  Inhabitants  of  Naxot 
were  a  nee  of  Ionian*.  Aristotle  relates,  that  the  most  wealthy  of 
them  lived  in  the  town,  and  that  the  rest  were  scattered  about,  among 
the  villages,  In  different  parts  of  the  island.  A  very  antient  Inscription 
fond  near  the  base  of  Zia  (AIA),  the  principal  mountain,  which  is 
preserved  by  Span  and  by  Tournefori,  will  prove  that  the  pastures  of 
Nazos  had  invited  shepherds  m  a  very  early  age.  It  consists  only  of 
three  words,  OPOS  A 10 2  MBAQ2I0Y, "  Mountain  of  Jupiter,  Guar- 
Am  of  Flock*"  The  title  of  Shepherd,  as  applied  to  the  Deity,  is  of 
great  antiquity.  It  is  often  found  in  the  Scripture. "  Givr  bar,  O  thou 

8BTFHBBD  OF  ISRAEL  !"  (Ptalm  lxXZ.  1.)  u  THB  LORD  18  MI 
SlIFHBBB— - HB  MAKBTH  MB  TO  LIB  DOW*  TR  GREEN  PASTURES : 
U  LIADETH  MB  BBSXDB  THB  STILL  WATERS."  Psaim  Xxlii.  1,  2. 


88 


ISLAND   OF    NAXOS. 

CH\i*'  partly  concealing  the  cothurnus  of  goat's  hair 
upon  their  legs.  They  cover  their  head  with  a 
red  scull-cap,  which  is  manufactured  at  Venice1. 
Reckoning  their  goats  and  sheep  together,  these 
independent  shepherds  have  five  or  six  hundred 
animals  in  each  flock.  They  shear  their  sheep 
twice  a  year ;  putting  the  rams  to  the  ewes  in 
May,  and  removing  them  when  the  latter  begin 
to  lamb.  They  speak  the  modern  Greek  language ; 
and  perhaps  recruit  their  numbers  from  the  race 
of  Albanians  which  is  scattered  over  all  Greece. 
They  told   us   that   they   made   three   or  four 


(1)  This  part  of  the  modern  Greek  and  Albanian  drew  is  the  moat 
antient :  it  may  be  observed  upon  a  bas-relief  of  the  highest  anti- 
quity, near  to  Orchomenos  in  JBeeotia:  it  is  still  worn  throughout 
Albania,  and  among  all  the  Grecian  Isles,  as  it  was  by  their  ancestors, 
and  by  the  Byzantine  Emperors.  It  is  common  also  to  the  Turk*, 
from  the  Grand  Signior  to  the  meanest  slave,  who  wear  it  beneath  the 
tarban ;  and  the  portrait  of  Manuel  Palceologus  (exhibiting  this  eap 
with  the  addition  only  of  ornamental  gems  about  it)  which  was  en- 
graven as  a  Vignette  to  the  First  Chapter  of  our  Third  Volume,  8vo. 
edition,  was  placed  there  expressly  to  shew,  that  the  Turks,  in  their 
domestic  habits  (when  it  is  sometimes  usual  for  them,  as  destitute  of 
ceremony,  to  take  off  their  turban),  exhibit  a  costume  precisely  corre- 
sponding with  the  appearance  presented  by  that  portrait.  Persons 
who  have  never  seen  the  Turks,  excepting  upon  occasions  of  ceremony, 
when  their  heads  are  covered  by  high  calpacks  and  by  turbans,  and 
who  do  not  therefore  remark  the  antient  and  common  covering  for  the 
head  which  is  below  these,  will  not  perceive  any  resemblance  between 
the  figure  of  a  modern  Sultan  and  the  portrait  of  Manuel  PaUtologus; 
although  nothing  can  be  more  striking;  for  they  have  the  same 
characteristic  aquiline  features,  the  same  length  of  visage  and  of 
beard,  and  the  same  covering  of  the  crown  on  the  head* 


ISLAND    OF    NAXOS.  89 

hundred  piastres  annually,  out  of  a  flock  of  five   chap. 
hundred  sheep  and  goats :   and  this  sum  they  s^v^/ 
spend   in  the  few    necessaries  or    indulgences 
they  may  require.     We  killed  and  dressed  one 
of  their  sheep:    the   mutton   had  a  very  bad 
flavour. 

The  island  has  no  port  on  its  eastern  side :  it  Appearance 
is  there  mountainous,  but  the  soil  is  bleak  and  island. 
barren.     The  rocks  in  this  part  of  it  consist  of 
alternate  strata  of  schistus  and  limestone.     We 
noticed  a  stratum   of  primary    limestone,   sur- 
mounted by  schistus ;  and  above  that  was  a  layer 
of  a  soft  kind  of  Cipolino  marble,  striped  blue 
and    white.      The  next  day,   October  the  six- 
teenth,  we    landed    to    collect    plants,  and   to 
examine  the  traces  of  buildings,  above  this  little 
bay ;  which  may  be  called  Panormo  Creek,  for 
it  merits  no  higher  consideration.      We  found 
the  remains  of  walls,  built  above  precipices,  in 
which  cement  had   been  used  ;    and  noticed  a 
door,  with  a  small  room  that   had   once  been 
stuccoed.      In  a  rude  chapel,  which  the  shep- 
herds had  constructed  of  loose  stones,  we  ob- 
served a  fragment  of  antique  marble  ;  but,  upon 
the  whole,  these   works   had   much   more  the 
appearance  of  buildings  hastily  constructed  by 
pirates  than   by   any   people    acquainted   with 


i 


92  ISLAND    OF   NAXOS. 

chap.  Naxos  is  situate  in  an  opposite  part  of  the  island, 
towards  the  north-west :  the  author  has  ever  since 
regretted  that  his  rough  treatment  at  sea  en- 
tirely  banished  from  his  recollection  all  thought 
of  this  important  part  of  the  natural  history  of 
Naxos;  and  he  has  the  more  regretted  his 
inattention  to  it,  as  we  are  entirely  ignorant  of 
the  geological  position,  association,  and  matrix  of 
emery.  Since  the  celebrated  Tennant  has  dis- 
covered its  relationship  to  corundum1,  inde- 
pendently of  its  importance  in  a  commercial 
view,  and  of  its  connection  with  antient  history, 
it  is  peculiarly  entitled  to  notice.  The  matrix 
of  the  corundum  of  the  Carnatic  is  a  stone  of  a 
peculiar  nature,  resembling  the  Naxian  marble8. 
The  crystals  of  corundum  are  dispersed  in  it  in 
the  same  manner  as  those  of  feldspar  are  dis- 
posed in  porphyry3.  The  author  has  succeeded 
in  obtaining,  by  the  accidental  fracture  of  the 
compact  emery  of  Naxos,  as  regular  an  hexagonal 
form   as   that  which    may   be    noticed   in   the 


(1)  See  the  Communication  read  to  the  Royal  Society,  July  1. 1809, 
on  the  Composition  of  Emery,  by  Smith  ton  Tennant,  F.R.S. 

(2)  "  It  is  similar/'  says  the  Count  de  Bournon,  "  to  the  kind  of 
marble  known  by  the  name  of  Coarse-grained  Saline  Marble,"  (See 
Bournon  on  the  Corundum  Stone,  p.  50.  Lond.  1802.)  This  descrip- 
tion answers  to  the  marble  of  Naxos. 

(3)  See  Bournon,  &c.  as  above. 


ISLAND    OF    NAXOS.  93 

corundum  of  the  Mysore :  nor  is  it  unreasonable   chap. 
to  infer,  as  a  probability,  that  Telesia,  or  perfect       !I" 
corundum,  under  the  forms    exhibited   by   the 
Oriental  sapphire  and  Oriental  ruby  ,may  be  found 
by  future  travellers  in  the   mines  of  emery  at 
Naxos.     Tournefort  relates,  that,  in  his  time, 
those  mines  were  situate  at  the  bottom  of  a  valley, 
beyond  a  place  called  Perato,  in  the  territory  of 
the  French  Consul ;  but  that  the  inhabitants  find 
emery  as  they  plough  the  earth,  and  carry  it 
down  to  the  sea  coast,  where  the  English  often 
ballast  their  ships  with  it ;  and  it  was  so  cheap, 
that  twenty-eight  hundred  weight  of  it  might  be 
purchased   for  a  crown4.     Dapper  says,  that  a 
cape  on  the  north-west  side  of  the  island  takes 
its  name  from  this  stone5.     Almost  all  the  emery 
of  commerce  comes  from  Naxos.     The  island 
has  been  celebrated  for  ages  in  being  the  pecu- 
liar deposit  of  this  remarkable  mineral.     Pliny, 
in  the  description  he  has  given  of  a  green  stone, 
which  the  Antients  called  topaz y  says  it  was  the 
only  gem  that  admitted  the  impression  of  a  file ; 
that  all  other  gems  were  polished  by  means  of 


(4)  Tovrnef.  Voy.  da  Levant,  torn.  I.  p.  263.    Lyon,  1717. 

(5)  Capo  Smerigiio;  the  Italians  calling  emery,  Smeriglio,  or  Smerillo, 
8«e  Dapper,  Isles  de  V  Archipel.  p.  350.    Amst.  1703. 


94  ISLAND    OF   NAX09. 

chap,  the  grinding-stones  ofNaxos1:  and,  in  a  preceding 
v#^  part  of  his  work,  he  speaks  of  Naxium  as  used 
in  polishing  marble  and  gems*.  The  shepherds 
told  us  that  wild  honey  is  found  in  great  abun- 
dance in  this  island :  the  children  set  oat  in 
parties  to  collect  it,  as  in  the  other  islands  of 
the  Archipelago.  From  the  rocks  above  Panormo 
Creek,  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  great  cluster  of 
islands  laying  towards  the  south-east. 

On  Saturday,  October  the  seventeenth,  at  sun- 
rise, we  got  under  weigh,  with   a  light  breeze 
from   the  north-west,  and  steered  for  the  south 
Naxian     0f  the   boccaze,   or  strait,  between  this  island 

Boccaze  J 

and  Paros.  In  passing  up  the  channel,  we 
were  obliged  to  use  our  oars;  but  by  ten 
o'clock  a.  m.  we  came  to  anchor  in  the  port, 
close  to  the  town  of  Naxos,  having  nearly  com- 
pleted the  tour  of  the  whole  island.  We  found 
only  a  few  boats  in  the  harbour.  The  Greek 
sailors  still  preserve  the  custom,  mentioned  by 
Homer,  of  hauling  their  vessels  on  the  shore, 


(1)  "  Badem  sola  nobiliura  limam  tenth :  casters'  Naxiis  cotibo* 
poliuntur."  Plin.  Hist.  Nat,  lib.  xxxrii.  c.  8.  torn  III.  p.  644.  L,  Bat. 
1858. 

(2)  "  Signis  &  marmore  poliendis,  gemmisque  etiam  scalpendis  atqoe 
limandis  Naxium  din  placuit  ante  alia.*'  Ibid.  lib.  xxxri.  c.  7.  torn. 
III.  p.  478. 


ISLAND   OF   NAXOS.  95 

with  the  prows  resting  on  the  beach ;  having   chap. 
done  this,  they  place  the  mast  lengthwise  across  w^v 
the  prow  and  the  poop,  and  spread  the  sail  over 
it,  so  as  to  form  a  tent;  then   beneath  these 
tents  they  sing  their  songs,  drinking  wine  freely, 
and  accompanying  their  voicrs  with  the  lyre  or 
three-stringed  viol :  Such  a  concert  greeted  our 
arrival.      Being  told  that  a   Latin  archbishop 
resided  in  the  place,  we  paid  him  a  visit.     The 
town  makes  a  neat  appearance  from  the  harbour,  Town  or 
hot  has  altogether  the  character  of  an  antient  Naxo$- 
Greek  city  when  it  is  entered ;  the  streets  being 
irregular,  deep,  narrow,  and  dirty.     We  found 
upon  the  mart,  near  the  shore,  large  heaps  of 
the  moat  enormous  green  citrons  we  had  ever 
seen,  ready  to  be  removed  on  board  some  boats 
waiting  to  convey  this  kind  of  freightage  to  Con- 
stantinople.     They   are   valued   principally   for 
their  very  thick  rind,  of  which  a  green  sweet- 
meat is  prepared:    but  we  could  hardly  have 
credited  an  account  of  the  size  to  which  this 
fruit  here  attains.     Some  of  these  citrons  were 
as  large   as   a   man's   head,  and  of  the   most 
I      singular  forms  ;  consisting  almost  wholly  of  the 
!      rind,  with  very  little  juice  in  any  of  them.     The 
archbishop  received  us   very  politely,  and  pre- 
[      pared  a  dinner  for  us ;  but  we  begged  to  make 
|      the  best  use  of  our  time,  and  therefore  declined 


i 


96  ISLAND    OF    NAXOS. 

chap,  his  invitation.     By  his  kindness  we  were  admit- 
U\^  ted  to  the  churches,  which  have  the  privilege 


scripts. 


of  being  furnished  with  bells,  as  at  Patmos.  A 
Greek  priest,  in  answer  to  our  inquiry  for  Manu- 
Mana-  scripts,  produced  from  beneath  an  altar,  lying 
upon  the  damp  pavement  of  one  of  the  sanc- 
tuaries, a  quarto  Codex  of  selections  from  the 
Gospels,  written  upon  vellum  for  the  ude  of 
the  Greek  Church  :  this,  as  usual,  had  been 
condemned  as  soon  as  a  printed  copy  had 
supplied  its  place.  We  easily  contrived  to 
purchase  it;  and  afterwards  obtained,  for  a 
small  sum,  by  means  of  the  same  priest,  a 
similar  Manuscript,  apparently  of  the  same  age, 
from  one  of  the  Greek  families  in  the  place1.  In 
this  manner,  antient  copies  of  the  Gospels  may 
be  procured  in  the  Archipelago,  by  persons  who 
will  be  at  the  pains  to  seek  for  them;  as, 
in  our  own  country,  the  rarest  English  editions 
of  the  Scriptures  may  be  found  in  counties  at  a 
distance  from  the  metropolis ;  where  they  have 
either  been  banished  from  the  churches  to 
make  way  for  more  modern  Bibles,  or  laid  up 
in  the  vestry ;  or  in  store-rooms,  as  waste  paper, 
in   private   families,  being  too  antiquated  and 


(1)  These  are  the  same  Manuscripts  mentioned  by  Professor  Gaitford, 
Not.  47, 48.  p.  100.  of  his  Catalogue.    Oxon.  1812. 


ISLAND    OF    NAXOS.  97 


inelegant  in  their  appearance  for  the  taste  of  the    chap. 


owners*. 


tantn. 


The  want  of  a  proper  port  for  large  shipping 
has  saved  Naxos  from  many  a  visit  on  the  part 
of  the  Turks.     We  were  told  that  not  a  single 
Moslem  could  be  found  in  the  whole  island,  and 
that  many  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  interior  had  i"i"*bi- 
never  seen  a  Turk :  but  they  sometimes  experi- 
ence the  honour  of  a  call  from  their  masters,  en 
passant ;    and  then,   "  upon  the  arrival  of  the 
meanest  commander  of  a  galliot,"  says  Tourne- 
forf,    "  neither  Latins  nor    Greeks   ever  d*re 
appear  but  in  red  caps,  like  the  common  galley- 
slaves,  humbling  themselves  before  the  pettiest 
officer."     As  soon  as  the  Turks  have  left  them, 
nothing  is  to  be  heard  but  tables  of  their  genea- 
logy ;    some   deducing   their   origin    from    the 
Paleologi,  or  from  the  Comnenii ;  others  from  the 
noblest  Venetian  families4.     The  island  was  for 
three  hundred   years  the  residence  of  princes 
appointed    by   the    Venetians  as    Dukes  of  the 


(2)  The  author  has  teen  discarded  old  black-Utter  Bibles  in  the  chests 
•f  amatory  churches ;  and  once  found  a  copy  of  MiUt  CooerdaU's 
Kited  translation  of  the  Scriptures  in  the  hands  of  a  Welsh  hoti*e- 
beper,  who  was  preparing  to  ube  it  in  covering  preserves. 

\3)  Tounuf.  Voy.  du  Levant,  Lett.  V.  torn.  1.  p.  2.^7.  Lyon,  1717. 

(4)  Ibid. 

VOL.    VI.  II 

\ 
P 


98  ISLAND   OF   NAX06. 

chap.   Archipelago;  from  the  beginning  of  the  thir- 
teenth  century,  when  the  Emperor  Henry  gave 
this  title  to  Marco  Sanudo,  until  the  expulsion 
by  the  Turks,  under  Selim  the  Second,  of  Gia- 
como  Crispo,  the  twenty-first  and  last  duke.    It  is 
owing   to  this  circumstance  that  the  Venetian 
costume    still   exists  among   the  Latin  ladies. 
That  of  the  Greek  women  is  very  remarkable ; 
but  it  has  been  already  described  and  accurately 
represented  in  Tournefort's  Travels1.     We  were 
unable  to  resist  the  hospitable  importunity  with 
which  some  of  the  inhabitants  invited  us  into 
their  dwellings ;  and  might  have  sacrificed  the 
whole  of  our  time  in  going  from  house  to  house, 
to  be  regaled  with  lemonade  and  sweetmeats. 
Some  of  the   ladies   were  very   anxious  to  be 
informed  how  the  women  of  our  island  passed 
their  time ;  and  whether  the  rich  dresses  of  the 
Naxian  women    accorded  with    the   habits  of 
English  females  of  distinction.     We  told  them 
that  English  ladies  of  elevated  rank  aimed  only 
at  simplicity  in  their  dress ;  that,  in  our  com- 
mercial country,  wealth  was  very  often  on  the 
side   of    low    birth  ;    and,    consequently,   that 
expensive  dresses  and  costly  ornaments,  so  far 
from  being  the  distinguishing  characteristics  of 

(1)  Tournef.  Voy.  du  Levant,  Lett  V.  torn.  I.  p.  828. 


ISLAND    OF    NAXOS.  99 

high   breeding,   were  generally   considered   as  chap. 

•  ii 

marks  of  vulgarity ;  that  the  wives  and  daugh- 
ters of  our  nobility  wore  the  plainest,  and  gene- 
rally the  cheapest,  apparel.  Still,  their  curiosity 
was  not  satisfied  ;  they  wished  we  would  tell 
them  of  what  materials  their  dresses  consisted  ; 
and  whether  any  thing  of  the  kind  could  be  had 
at  Malta,  or  Constantinople ;  and  in  the  evident 
desire  which  they  betrayed  of  imitating  the 
London  mode,  we  were  amused  in  thinking  what 
sort  of  a  metamorphosis  would  be  effected  by 
the  arrival  of  an  English  lady  of  rank  at 
Naxos :  what  discarding  of  brocade,  and  coloured 
velvet,  and  embroidered  vests,  for  British 
muslin  and  stuffs ;  what  scrambling  for  a  few 
pieces  of  crape  and  cambric,  if  such  merchan- 
dize should  arrive  in  the  midst  of  the  revolution  ; 
how  all  the  old  family  wardrobes,  which  had 
been  handed  down  in  form  and  substance  from 
the  Ju&tinianis,  the  Grimaldis,  and  the  Summa- 
ripaf,  would  give  place  to  the  simplest  English 
costume.  As  we  had  a  variety  of  other  busi- 
ness to  claim  our  attention,  during  the  short 
stay  we  intended  to  make,  we  put  an  end  to  a 
chain  of  inquiries  that  redoubled  after  every 
answer,   by   promising  to   send   all   the    latest 

(2)  S«e  Tournrfort,  ibid.  p.  857. 

H    2 


100  ISLAND    OF    NAXOS. 

chap,  modes,  by  the  earliest  opportunity,  either  from 
Paris  or  London. 


Popuia-  The  population  has  not  been  altered  since 
Naxos  was  visited  by  Tournefort :  that  of  the 
whole  island,  including  the  women,  may  be  esti- 
mated at  eighteen  thousand  persons :  about 
three  thousand  of  this  number  are  Latins,  and 
the  rest  are  Greeks.  During  war,  they  pay 
forty  purses  as  a  tax  to  the  Turkish  Govern- 
ment, each  purse  being  equivalent  to  five  hun- 
dred piastres.  In  the  time  of  peace  very  little 
impost  is  levied.  Their  wine  maintains  its  pris- 
tine celebrity,  and  we  thought  it  excellent.  The 
Latin  families  live  together  in  the  castle,  or 
fortress,  separated  from  the  Greeks,  not  only 
by  situation,  but  by  numberless  petty  feuds  and 
jealousies.  We  found  fragments  of  a  red  por- 
phyry here,  much  resembling  lava.  In  the 
evening,  it  rained,  which  was  quite  a  novel 
spectacle  to  us  at  that  time.  The  archbishop 
had  again  prepared  his  table  for  us ;  and,  as  we 
had  refused  his  dinner,  we  went  to  sup  with 
him.  He  had  also  provided  beds,  and  every 
other  necessary  convenience  for  our  accommo- 
dation ;  but  as  the  impossibility  of  making  any 
adequate  return  for  such  civilities  is  often  a 
painful    reflection    upon     these    occasions,    we 


ISLAND    OF   NAXOS.  101 

determined  to  rough  it  out,  as  usual,  in  our  chap. 
caique.  The  Greek  houses  of  every  description,  v^w 
it  is  true,  swarm  with  vermin ;  but  we  could 
not  pique  ourselves  upon  the  superiority  of  our 
accommodation  on  board,  even  in  this  respect, 
from  the  swarms  of  cock-roaches  by  which  we 
were  infested :  and  some  rats,  the  athletes  of 
their  kind,  during  the  last  night  that  we  remained 
in  Panormo  Bay,*  actually  carried  off,  not  only 
the  author's  book  of  plants,  filled  with  speci- 
mens, but  also  a  weighty  Turkish  poignard,  tied 
up  within  it,  used  for  the  double  purpose  of 
digging  roots,  and  as  a  weapon  of  defence. 

Early  the  next  day  we   landed,  to  seek  for  Antiqni- 
some   remains   of  the  antient  city,  which  wasUe0' 
nearly   in   the   situation  of  the  modern   town. 
The  antiquities  of  Naxos  relate  almost  exclu- 
sively to  the  worship  of  Bacchus.     The  inhabi- 
tants are  still  much  addicted  to  drinking,  and 
every  medal  and  gem  of  the  island  prove  how 
prevalent  the  rites  of  Bacchus  once  were.     This 
god  is  represented  bearded  upon  all  the  Naxian 
coins  and  signets.     We  obtained  several,  which 
we  shall  presently  describe.     Below  the  window 
of  a  house  belonging  to  the  Chancellor  of  Naxos, 
we  found  an  Inscription,  upon  the  capital  of  a  ]£££*' 
column,  of  an  order  in  architecture  unknown  to 
Qfl.     It  was  discovered  by   a  monk,  who  was 


J  02  ISLAND   OF   NAXOS. 

chap,  digging  for  building  materials  among  the  remains 
of  the  antient  city  :  he  found .  the  shaft  of  the 
column  near  to  it,  and  a  small  antique  lamp  of 
terra  cotta.  The  pillar  itself  was,  in  all  proba- 
bility, a  sepulchral  stete.  The  inscription  is 
hardly  worth  preserving,  as  it  only  contains  a 
few  names ;  but  one  is  unwilling  to  neglect  the 
preservation  of  any  Grecian  relic,  and  espe- 
cially where  few  are  found. 

XA'HTOZKAI 
HPOAOYKAIZE 
AEYKOYKriOAXP 
OY 


AIOTENOY 

KA1 
AMMXINIOY 


npoKAGinpo 

KAOYKAIAAE 
ZANApOYKAl 

znziMOY 

ZY 

We  were  afterwards  shewn,  upon  the  top  of  a 
house  below  the  walls  of  the  fortress,  a  small 
slab,  rather  of  Parian  than  of  Naxian  marble 
(the  grain  being  finer  than  in  the  latter),  con- 
taining an  inscription  of  great  antiquity  :  the 
letters  were  small ;  and  they  were  exceedingly 


ISLAND  OF   NAXOS.  103 

well  cut,  like  some  of  the  inscriptions  which  have  chap. 
been  found  in  Troas,  of  the  age  of  the  Seleucidce, 
The  names  of  Aristotle,  Socrates,  Theocritus,  and 
Alexander,  inscribed  upon  the  same  marble, 
somewhat  excited  our  curiosity ;  but,  after  all 
we  do  not  find  a  single  fact  stated  in  this  in- 
scription :  it  consists  only  of  a  list  of  names ; 
and  many  of  these  are  lost,  owing  to  the  injury 
the  stone  has  sustained. 

ETlirYMNAZIAPXOYAnO 

KAIYDOrYM  .  .  OYZEKA  .  .  .  GZ  .  .  .  . 

vnEiNorrovAnoAAO  .  • .  toy....h*hb  . . . 

ZINOlAPtZTOTEAHZAPIZTOTEAOYZ . .  ♦ANOZZHZ 
♦ANOAlKOZZnZTPATOY.N|KAlOZM...TOY0EOrZI. 

ZQXUHOYnOAAO  •  •  •  APXlAPXOY . . .  ZlAEfiZ^lAOl-  • 
noriAlOXApEAAlOrXKP  .  .  $1  .  NAXEHZNEOTERO 
EYTYXOZp  .  .  .  NAlOYflY . .  t\. . .  MAKYAP1ZTOAHN 

eEOKAElAOYNEMEK.    .  tTOE.  •  •  •  HZTOZflEPlTO 

eEO+lAOZeEOKAEl MX1NNIKHPATOZ 

IcrHZl^XlNTOZ EMfiNNlKAlOY 

KAEflNY    noYHMEPOZ 

AHMHTPIOI .  HPAZ ZlNOI  .     AYAOZ 

KAlAlKlO^ArA  .  OAOZ  •  •  KAElAOYZftZANAPOZ 
N I KANAPOYNIKANAPOZNIKANAPOYAHMHTPIOZ 

EniNlKOYMAKOZnOAAl<*ZMAPKeYAEKMeZ 
AYvlAIO£ZnOP|OYZHKPATHZNlKlOY 

8EOKpiTOZeEdKplTOYAYAOZZOA^lKlOZ 

AYAOYAAEZANApOZApTEMnNOZAEYKlOZ 

XESTlAlOZZnOPlOYTPY^nNXAPMl 
AOY.    .Y    ..     HPETHIAPTEMHN 


104  ISLAND   OF    NAXOS. 

chap.  \ye  COpied  this  inscription  with  difficulty,  being 
^s*-'  frequently  interrupted  by  the  exorbitant  de- 
mands of  the  woman  to  whom  the  house  be- 
longed. She  positively  refused  to  sell  the 
marble,  having  a  •  superstitious  notion  that  it 
prevented  evil  spirits  from  coming  to  her  dwell- 
ing :  after  insisting  upon  a  payment  of  thirty 
piastres  for  a  sight  of  it,  she  allowed  us  to  copy 
it  for  a  hundred  paras,  but  not  without  continual 
interruption,  and  the  most  clamorous  entreaty 
for  more  money. 

sculpture.  We  had  suftcient  employment  afterwards, 
among  many  valuable  antiquities.  Every  frag* 
ment  of  the  antient  sculpture  of  Naxos  denoted 
the  most  splendid  sera  of  the  art :  but  Bacchus 
was  all  in  all.  The  fragment  of  a  marble  bust 
of  the  God,  crowned  with  vine  leaves,  was 
shewn  to  us,  of  the  most  perfect  sculpture ;  but 
the  price  set  upon  every  thing  proved  our  ap- 
proximation to  western  countries,  and  that  the 
intercourse  between  this  island  and  Italy 
had  taught  them  how  to  appreciate  the  works 
of  Grecian  artists.  An  antient  weight  had 
been  dug  up,  of  an  oblong  square  form,  with 
its  handle,  neatly  cut  in  marble ;  this  we  brought 
away :  it  weighs  exactly  four  pounds,  seven 
ounces  and  a  half.  A  Greek  had  recently  dis- 
covered a  vessel  of  terra  cotta}  containing  some 


ISLAND    OF    NAXOS.  105 

small  bronze  coins  of  Naxos,  of  the  finest  die,  chap. 
exhibiting  the  head  of  the  bearded  Bacchus  in  ^^ 
front,  and  a  diota  on  the  reverse,  with  the Medlli- 
legend  NASII2N  :  we  bought  ten  of  these.  The 
author  had  also  the  good  fortune  to  procure  a 
silver  medal  of  the  island,  of  such  uncommon 
rarity,  that  it  is  believed  there  is  not  a  dupli- 
cate of  it  in  any  collection  in  Europe.  It  has  on 
the  front  a  bearded  head  of  Bacchus ;  and  for 
reverse,  the  diota,  with  the  letters  N  A.  It  is 
wonderful,  considering  the  wealth  and  popula- 
tion which  the  testimony  of  Herodotus  proves 
the  Island  of  Naxos  to  have  possessed,  that  its 
coins  should  be  so  scarce,  and  generally  so 
paltry :  while  those  of  its  Sicilian  colony,  so 
much  less  noticed  in  history,  are  by  no  means 
uncommon  ;  and  for  size  and  workmanship,  the 
latter  are  among  the  finest  examples  of  art 
extant. 

Visiting,  as  usual,  the  working  silversmiths,  Gems. 
we  found  among  them  several  gems.  The  first 
was  a  carnelian  with  the  figure  of  a  goat,  a 
symbol  of  Bacchus :  the  second,  which  we  could 
not  obtain,  represented  a  whole-length  figure 
of  the  God,  reeling,  decorated  with  vine-leaves 
and  grapes,  and  followed  by  a  dog ;  he  held  a 
thyrsus  in  one  hand,  and  a  diota  in  the  other 


106  ISLAND   OF   NAXOS. 

chap,  turned  bottom  upwards,  as  a  proof  that  he  had 
emptied  the  contents  of  the  vase.  Upon 
another  gem,  which  we  were  also  unable  to  pur- 
chase, we  observed  an  altar,  supporting  a  bust 
of  Bacchus  crowned  with  vine-leaves,  in  a 
very  singular  attitude,  with  its  mouth  open,  as 
if  making  a  libation  of  the  effects  of  intoxica- 
tion :  around  it  appeared  the  letters  of  his 
name,  YODYNOIA,  written,  in  very  antient 
characters,  from  right  to  left.  At  the  house  of 
the  Chancellor,  from  whom  we  experienced  the 
most  hospitable  attention,  we  saw  the  hand  of 
an  antient  statue,  executed  in  the  best  style  of 
Grecian  sculpture,  and  certainly  not  inferior  to 
any  thing  yet  discovered.  Also,  near  to  his 
house,  the  torso  and  bust  of  a  military  figure, 
with  a  robe  over  the  shoulder,  of  the  most 
exquisite  workmanship.  The  sculpture  of  the 
island  appeared  to  be  generally  of  the  sort  of 
marble  called  Parian,  whether  found  in  Paros  or 
in  Naxos ;  and  the  remains  of  works  in  archi- 
tecture to  have  been  executed  in  the  splendid, 
broader-grained,  and  sparry  marble,  which  is 
more  peculiar  to  the  Naxian  quarries :  but 
neither  the  one  nor  the  other  exhibited  the 
smallest  appearance  of  that  false  lustre  and 
glittering  surface  which  has  sometimes,  and 
very  improperly,  been  supposed  to  characterize 


ISLAND    OF   NAX06.  107 

works  of  art  executed  in  the  marble  of  these 
islands1.  Age  had  given  to  all  a  warm  and 
beautiful  tint  of  a  yellow  colour :  and,  to  the 
eye,  every  fragment  seemed  to  possess  the 
softness  and  consistency  of  wax  or  of  alabaster. 
The  Chancellor  told  us,  that  in  the  interior  of  %%£? 
the  island,  at  the  distance  of  three  hours  from 
the  town,  near  to  some  antient  marble  quarries, 
there  yet  remains  an  unfinished  colossal  statue, 
as  he  said,  of  Apollo,  but  evidently  of  Bacchus, 
with  a  bearded  countenance,  sixteen  feet  in 
length*.  A  public  fountain  near  to  the  town 
is  still  considered  by  the  inhabitants  as  thb 
fountain  of  Ariadne,  and  it  is  called  by  that 
name.  Some  traces  of  antient  works,  which 
may  yet  be  discerned  near  to  this  fountain,  shew 
that  it  has  long  been  held  in  more  than  usual 
consideration. 


Being  unable  to  undertake  a  journey  into  the  Temple  of 
interior,  we  next  visited  the  ruins  of  a  temple 


(])"LemarbreGreeest  agros  grains  crystalling  qui  font  de  faux 
jours,  et  qui  sautent  par  petit  eclats,  si  on  ne  le  menage  arec.  soin." 
Tmtnuf.  Voy.  du  Lev.  Lett.  V.  torn.  I.  p.  341.    Lyon,  1717. 

(S)  Mr.  Hamilton,  author  of  ^Egyptiaca,  with  his  companions,  after- 
wards Titited  Naxos,  and  saw  this  statue  of  Bacchus.  It  is  of  such 
taormou  size,  that  Mr.  Hamilton's  party  spread  a  cloth  upon  the 
beard,  and  made  it  senre  as  their  table  for  breakfest. 


J 08  ISLAND    OF    NAXOS. 

chap,   of  Bacchus,  upon  an  insular  rock  on  the  north 
I,#      side  of  the  port     The  portal  of  this  temple  has 
been  long  famous,  and  an  account  of  it  is  given 
in  every  book  of  travels  where  Naxos  is  men- 
tioned.    It  is  asserted,  that  the  isle  was  once 
connected   with  Naxos   by  means  of  a  bridge 
and  an  aqueduct ':  the  author  of  the  "  Voyage 
Pittoresque  de  la  Gr&ce"  says  that  its  vestiges 
are  yet  visible1:     we   did  not    observe   them, 
when  we  were  upon  the  spot..    It  is  an  error 
to  suppose,  as  many  have  affirmed,  that  nothing 
remains  of  the  temple  but  this  portal,  although 
it  be  true  that  little  else  can  be  seen.     Consi- 
dering the  pains  that  have  been  lately  bestowed 
by  many  of  our  English  travellers  in  making 
excavations  in  different  parts  of  Greecef  it  is 
rather  extraordinary  that  no  person  has  been 
induced  to  lay  open  the  site  of  this  remarkable 
building,  where  there  are  no  Turks  to  interfere 
with  the  workmen,   and  where  there  is  almost 
a  certainty   of  reward  for  their   trouble.     For 
our  part,  we  had  not  the  means  of  carrying  on 
such  works ;    but  we   uncovered  a  part  of  the 
soil,  and  discovered   a  beautiful    capital  of  a 
Doric  pillar,  thereby  ascertaining  the  order  of 


(l)  Voy.  Pittor.  torn.  1.  p.  43.    Park,  1782. 


ISLAND    OF    NAXOS.  109 

architecture  observed  in  the  building.  We 
were  struck  with  admiration  at  the  massive 
structure  and  the  simple  grandeur  of  that  part 
of  the  temple  which  still  remains  standing:  it 
consists  of  three  pieces  only  of  the  Naxian 
marble,  two  being  placed  upright,  and  one  laid 
across.  Below  these  are  large  square  masses, 
which  belonged  to  the  threshold ;  and  this  con- 
sisted of  three  pieces  only8.  The  view  through 
this  portal,  of  the  town  of  Naxos  with  its  port, 
and  part  of  the  island,  is  very  fine.  We  en- 
deavoured, by  a  sketch  made  upon  the  spot,  to 
preserve  a  memorial  of  the  scene ;  and  it  has 
been  since  rendered  more  perfect,  without 
interfering  with  the  fidelity  of  the  representa- 
tion.9. The  mountain  seen  to  the  left  is  pro- 
bably AIA,  now  called  Zia,  whence  the  island 
was  formerly  named.  We  brought  away  some 
large  specimens  of  the  marble,  which  lies  in 


(2)  Tournefort  ascertained  the  dimensions  of  the  portal:  according 
to  him,  (see  tarn.  I.  Lett.  V.  a  Lyon,  1717.)  it  is  eighteen  feet  high,  and 
eleven  feet  three  inches  broad  ;  the  lintel  is  four  feet  thick  ;  the  two 
■plights  are  four  feet  thick,  and  three  feet  and  a  half  broad.  All  the 
parte,  he  says,  were  cramped  with  copper ;  for  he  found  small  pieces  of 
that  metal  among  the  ruins. 

(3  J  See  the  Plate  in  the  Third  Quarto  Volume  of  these  Travels,  p.  308 
from  a  Drawing  by  Mr.  H.  Wright,  of  Magdalen  College,  Cambridge. 


110  ISLAND   OF    NAXOS. 

chap,  fragments  near  the  portal :  it  is  so  much  softer 
v^v^/  and  more  lam i nary  than  the  Parian,  that  the 
difference  between  the  two  kinds  is  easily  to  be 
recognised  by  fracture.  It  is  singular  that  no 
account  of  a  building  of  such  magnificence 
should  be  preserved  in  any  author.  Ptolemy, 
as  it  is  observed  by  Tournefort,  seems  to  men- 
tion an  ancient  city  upon  which  it  is  probable 
that  the  modern  town  of  Naxos  is  built1 :  but 
no  allusion  to  this  small  isle  and  its  temple 
occurs  in  any  antient  description  of  Greece, 
notwithstanding  all  that  has  been  said  of  Naxos, 
by  Herodotus,  by  Appian,  and  by  other  writers. 
From  this  isle  we  returned  to  conclude  our 
researches  in  Naxos. 

other  The    citadel   was  constructed    under   Marco 

Ruins.  Sanudo,  the  first  duke  of  the  Archipelago ;  and 
the  antient  palace  of  his  successors  was  the 
large  square  tower  which  is  now  remaining 
within  this  circular  fortress9.  Near  to  a  small 
chapel  beneath  its  walls,  we  found  a  cippus, 
representing  two  female  figures,  in  bas-relief. 
There  is  not  a  house  in  the  town  that  has  not 


(1)  Nagov  Nq?ov  t)  w6\iq.  PtoU  Geog.  lib.  Hi.  cap,  16. 

(2)  Tournef.  Voy.  du  Lev.  torn.  I.  Lett.  V.  Lyon,  1717. 


ISLAND    OF    NAX08.  ,      Hi 

some  relic  of  this  kind  near  to  it ;  and  similar  chap. 

ii. 
remains  in  the  interior  are  very  common.     The 


inhabitants  told  us,  that  there   are  two  places 
where  rains  and  inscriptions  are  found  ;  the  one 
called  ApoUonoriy  and  the  other  a  village  which 
bears  the  name  of  Philotes.     They  spoke  of  ruins 
at  two  hours  distance  from  Naxos,  towards  the 
cast,  and  offered  to  conduct  us  thither :  but  the 
journey  would  have  detained  us  another  day  ; 
and  we  were  afraid  of  loitering,  at  this  season 
of  the  year,  with  such  a  vessel  as  ours,  upon  a 
doubtful  speculation;   and  therefore  refused  to 
go.     Nothing  happened  to  us  more  extraordi- 
nary than  oar  almost  unaccountable  neglect  in 
not  visiting  the  emery  mines :  this  arose  partly, 
as  has  been  stated,  from  the  alarm  into  which 
we  had  been  thrown  upon  our  first  coming  to  the 
island,  which  made  us  forget  to  inquire  after 
them ;    and   also,   in  some    degree,   from    not 
rightly    comprehending    the    meaning    of   the 
term  smerigUo,  when  the  exports  were  stated  to  Smengiw. 
us :  we  would  willingly  have  bartered  the  time 
which  we  spent  in  copying,  and  in  procuring 
permission  to   copy,  an   imperfect    and    unin- 
telligible   inscription,   for    the    opportunity    of 
making  a  few   observations  upon   the   Naxian 
corundum,  of  which   they   have   two   varieties, 


112  ISLAND    OF    NAXOS. 

chap,    very  different  in  their  qualities1.     They  find,  also, 
abundance  of  marcasite,  or  sulphuret  of  iron :  this 


(1)  The  lots  has  been  more  than  supplied,  by  a  valuable  communica- 
tion from  Mr.  Hawkins  upon  the  Geology  of  Naxos,  in  the  following 
Extract  from  hb  Manuscript  Journal. 

"  Naxia, 

"  The  largest  of  the  Cyclades,  and  the  most  circular. 

"  Frequent  but  not  dYep  indentations  of  the  coast,  and  therefore  no 
harbours. 

"  The  longest  diameter  of  the  island,  according  to  the  Russian 
Chart,  is  about  eighteen  miles,  its  breath  about  twelve,  and  its  two 
farthest  extremities  point  n.  n.e.  and  s.s.w. 

"  This,  too,  is  the  direction  of  a  mountainous  ridge  extending  from 
coast  to  coast,  and  running  through  the  centre  of  the  island. 

"  The  whole  district  eastward  of  this  ridge  is  mountainous,  sloping 
towards  the  shore,  and  furrowed  with  deep  narrow  vales. 

"  Mountains  and  wide  intervening  vales  or  plains  compose  the 
district  which  lies  westward. 

'*  These  mountains  dip  gradually  towards  the  southern  shore,  but 
terminate  abruptly  on  the  north  and  the  north-east. 

"  On  the  western  extremity  of  this  bold  line  of  coast  is  seated  the  town 
of  Naxia,  which  overlooks  a  plain  of  considerable  extent,  that  appears 
to  have  been  gained  from  the  sea  by  the  alluvial  depositions  of  the 
largest  river  in  the  island. 

"  In  the  centre  of  the  island  lies  the  broad  fertile  vale  of  Trimalia 
(ApcpaXia)  ;  the  boundary  of  which,  on  the  east,  is  the  main  ridge  of 
mountains  already  described,  and  of  which  the  highest  eminence  is 
denominated  Oid,  or  Jia.  Koronos  is  the  name  of  another  peak, 
nearly  as  high,  lying  at  the  distauce  of  Ave  miies  to  the  north. 

"  The  high  craggy  hills  which  form  the  eastern  boundary  of  the 
plain  of  Naxia  are  composed  of  a  species  of  gneiss,  resembling  that  of 
Miconi  and  Delos ;  the  foliaceous  texture  which  usually  distinguishes 
this  genus  of  primitive  rock  being  here  scarcely  perceptible. 

"  The  mountains  which  border  the  plain  of  Naxia,  on  the  south-east, 
are  composed  of  another  kind  of  primitive  rock,  which  extends  as  far 

as 


ISLAND   OF    NAX09.  113 

was  mentioned  to  us  by  the   Chancellor,   but   chap. 


we  were  not  told  what  use  they  made  of  it. 

as  the  eastern  shore  of  the  island,  and  forms  its  central  ridge,  as  well  as 
the  whole  of  its  interior. 

"  This  rock  is  a  compound  mats  of  mica  wd  feldspar,  of  a  floe  folla- 
ceous  grain,  corresponding  with  that  which  I  fonnd  near  Marathon. 
It  divides  into  large  slabs :  small  veins  of  feldspar  frequently  occurred 
in  the  transverse  fissures  of  the  rock  ;  and  the  feldspar  sometimes  con- 
tained the  AmpkiboU  Actinote  aciculaire  of  Hauy  and  Brogniart. 

"  I  observed  that  the  strata  on  the  west  of  the  Yale  of  Trinialia  dipped 
regularly  in  an  angle  of  40o  to  the  w.  and  by  if.  and  H.  w.  by  the  com- 
pass,  and  that,  near  the  village  of  Potamia,  they  alternated  with  beds 
of  the  large-grained  white  primary  marble,  which  varied  in  thickuess, 
W4RB  six  to  ten  feet  Advancing  eastward,  the  mountain  which  divides 
Potamia  from  the  Vale  of  Trimalia  presents  the  same  rock  entire  $ 
bat  here  the  laminm  were  of  a  waving  form,  and  the  rock  was  not  In- 
tersected by  Assure*.  On  the  eastern  side,  however,  of  the  same 
mountain,  as  I  descended  into  the  Vale  of  Trimalia,  I  observed  that  the 
strata  re-assumed  their  straight  slsty  texture ;  bat  here  they  dipped  in 
•  contrary  direction,  L  e.  to  the  east,  under  the  same  angle. 

"  Soon  after  this,  recommenced  alternate  beds  of  the  same  primitive 
samrble  as  I  observed  before,  which  now  became  more  frequent,  and 
continued  through  the  whole  tract  over  which  I  passed,  as  far  as  the 
eastern  coast  of  the  island ;  presenting,  eastward  of  the  mountain  of 
Jia,  and  the  village  of  Aperathi,  a  greater  breadth  even  than  the  beds 
of  the  micaceous  rock ;  the  average  thickness  of  these  beds  amounting 
so  40  or  SO  feet,  and  occurring  sometimes  of  100.  The  grain  of  the  mar- 
ble was  here  finer ;  and  although  the  strata  preserved  the  same  degree 
of  inclination  to  the  horizon,  yet  their  line  of  bearing  was  somewhat 
different,  their  dip  being  here  b.  and  by  x. 

"Fragments  of  emery  occurred  plentifully  in  the  Vale  of  Trimalia; 
and  I  observed  black  horn-$laie,  in  thin  beds,  in  the  micaceous  strata 
west  of  Aperathi*  Near  Xapct,  in  the  Vale  of  Trimalia,  I  found  rose- 
coloured  quartz. 

"  The  best  emery  is  found  at  Triangatho,  a  deep  narrow  vale,  one 
boor  and  a  half  distant,  east,  from  Aperathi;  and  one  hour  from  the 
sea-shore.  (t  To 

VOL.    VI.  I 


II. 


114  ISLAND   OF   PAROS. 


II. 


chap.  Formerly  it  was  employed  in  the  manufacture  of 
ear-rings  and  bracelets  in  England ;  and  buttons 
are  yet  made  of  it  in  Birmingham,  which  have, 
for  a  short  time,  almost  the  lustre  of  real  bril- 
liants. 


Arrival  at  At  eight  o'clock  a.  m.  October  the  nineteenth, 
we  found  our  vessel  entering  the  harbour  of 
Naussa1,  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  Isle 

"  To  ascertain  all  the  circumstance*  under  which  it  occurs,  was  the 
principal  object  of  any  excursion  hither ;  and  the  following  is  the  result 
of  my  observations : — 

"  The  emery  occurs,  in  scattered  fragments,  over  the  whole  surface  of 
this  district,  but  more  abundantly  in  the  bed  of  the  winter  torrent 
which  runs  through  the  Vale  of  Triaxgaiho.  I  remarked,  that  tho 
fragments  were  largest,  where  they  were  fewest,  on  the  upper  slopes  of 
the  hills ;  and  that  they  diminished  in  size,  and  augmented  in  number, 
as  they  occurred  lower  down. 

**  The  proximity  of  these  fragments  to  the  micaceous  strata,  their 
lamellous  form  and  granular  mass,  together  with  the  frequent  admix- 
ture of  mica,  indicated  their  native  bed  to  have  been  originally  in  that 
rock.  No  search,  however,  had  been  made  by  digging;  a  sufficient 
quantity  for  the  annual  consumption  of  Europe  being  collected,  without 
difficulty,  on  the  surface.  The  whole  expense,  therefore,  is  that  which 
is  occasioned  by  the  transport  of  the  emery  to  the  water-side. 

"  Three  caiques,  or  Greek  barks,  load  here  annually  for  Smyrna  ;  from 
whence,  in  the  year  1787,  107  tons  of  emery-stones  were  exported  to 
England. 

"  The  best  sort  of  emery,  as  I  have  already  observed,  is  found  at 
Triangatho  z  a  sort  less  esteemed,  at  Agam,  three  hours  and  a  half, 
south,  from  the  town  oTNaxia ;  and  at  Leona,  on  the  north  coast." 
\  Hawkins*  MS.  Journal. 

\  (1)  See  the  Vignette  to  this  chapter.    This  must  be  the  Porto  Ausa 

oT  Dapper.    (Descript.  dee  Isles  de  V  Archipel.  p.  261.     Amst.  1703.J 

Tournefort 


\ 


ISLAND   OF   PAROS.  115 

of  Paras  ;  having  availed  ourselves  of  the  land   chap. 
breeze,  in  the  night,  to  leave  Nazos.  This  is  the  n^vW 
principal  port  for  large  vessels  ;    but  as  our 
object  was  to  get  to  Parechia,  the  chief  town,  ****«***- 
we  ordered  our  men  to  bear  down  the  western 
side  of  the  island.     This  island  is  surrounded 
by  harbours;  and  that  of  Nazism  alone  is  said  to 
be  capable  of  containing  a  hundred  vessels. 


Tournefort  mentions  Naurn,  or  Agousa  {torn.  I.  Lett,  V.  p.  241. 
M**m,  1717) :  and  an  author  who  accompanied  Mons.  de  Nointel,  during 
hit  Voyage  in  the  Archipelago  in  1073,  write*  it  Agota  (L'Etat  present 
de  VArchipel  de  Monsieur  M.  D.  L.  Cologne,  1678.  p.  57.)  "  Hapoc  *x* 
KavToaivOyKWxuoaiiia.  1 .  napqcta,  iirtwosraro.  2. KfyaXog*  ntoroo. 
S-'AfoVra.  Ins.  Paros  habet  castra  duo,  et  unam  clvitatem. 
1.  Parikiam,  epitcopatom.  2.  Kephalon,  castrum.  3.  August  am.** 
(Vid.  Martini  Crusii  Annotations  in  Epistolas  Doc  to  rum,  p.  207. 
Turcooretciee.  Basil,  sine  anno.)  Sonnini  calls  it  Nausea.  (Trav.  in 
Greece,  p.  454.  Lortd.  1801.)  These  particulars  are  noted,  because 
Parse  may  hereafter  excite  the  notice  of  our  Government.  It  was  in 
this  port  that  the  Russians  established  the  depot  of  their  forces,  when 
they  promised  to  restore  liberty  to  Greece,  and  became  the  scourge  of 
the  inhabitants;  desolating  the  finest  works  of  antiquity,  wherever 
they  went.  There  is  no  harbour  in  Greece  better  calculated  for  a 
national  establishment.  Fleets  may  lie  there  in  perfect  safety,  and  in 
the  very  centre  of  the  Archipelago.  The  Turks  make  no  use  of  Paros 
themselves :  and,  viewed  only  with  regard  to  the  abundance  of  its 
valuable  marble,  it  ought  to  be  considered  as  an  island  of  importance 
ts>  a  nation  vain  of  its  distinction  in  the  Fine  Arts.  A  very  fine  Chart 
of  this  harbour  has  been  engraved  in  the  Voyage  Pittoresque  de  la 
Greet,  with  all  the  sounding?,  &c.  as  it  was  surveyed  by  Kauffer  in 
1776 ;  shewing  the  situation  of  the  Russian  magazines  and  fortifications. 
See  PI.  xxxi.  p.  70.  torn  1 .     Paris,  1 782. 

I    2 


116  ISLAND    OF    PAROS. 

chap.  A  contrary  wind  soon  after  met  us ;  m 
v^vW  consequence  of  which  we  landed,  and  walked 
about  three  miles;  meeting,  in  the  6rst  Greek  we 
saw,  a  proof  of  that  hospitality  which  is  so  com- 
mon in  the  Archipelago.  He  was  the  owner  of  a 
house  in  Paros  to  which  he  invited  us ;  saying 
that  bis  son  should  be  our  guide  to  the  marble 
quarries,  and  that  he  would  shew  us  all  the 
antiquities  in  the  neighbourhood.  We  accom- 
panied him  ;  and  made  a  hearty  meal  upon 
salted  olives,  grapes,  boiled  pumpkins,  and 
Parian  wine.  Our  boat  did  not  arrive  until  ten 
at  night.  Parechia  is  a  wretched  relic  of  the 
antient  and  famous  Paros.  Every  building  in 
the  place,  but  particularly  the  Castle,  bears 
some  evidence  of  its  pristine  splendour,  and  of  the 
havoc  that  has  ensued. 

October  the  twentieth,  the  Waiwode  of  Paros% 
who  is  a  native  of  Tenos  sent  as  Governor  to 
collect  the  taxes,  but  not  constantly  resident, 
came  to  visit  us,  and  offered  to  shew  to  us  the 
Castle.  Castle.  In  the  walls  of  this  building  we  saw 
some  columns  which  had  been  placed  horizon- 
tally among  the  materials  used  in  building  it ; 
and  their  butt-ends,  sticking  out,  were  singu- 
larly inscribed  with  the  letter  A,  placed  close  to 


ISLAND   OP    PAROS.  117 

the  cavity  intended  for  the  reception  of  the  iron  chap. 
instrument  called  by  modern  architects  the 
Louis1 ;  either  as  a  mark  by  which  to  adjust  the 
several  parts  of  the  shaft,  or  as  a  curious 
method  of  preserving  the  initial  of  the  archi- 
tect's name ;  so  that  it  could  not  be  seen  until 
the  building  became  a  ruin.  An  instance  of  a 
similar  nature  occurred  at  Tebnessus,  where  the 
name  of  Hermolycus  had  been  carefully  inscribed, 
bnt  in  such  a  manner  as  to  be  concealed  from 
observation  when  the  building  was  entire :  this 
letter  may  therefore  possibly  relate  to  Amphi- 
lochus,  "  the  glory  of  whose  art/'  in  an  inscrip- 
tion found  at  Shodef,  was  said  "  to  reach  to 
the  mouths  of  the  Nile,  and  to  the  utmost  Indus." 
The  entrance  to  the  interior  is  of  very  singular 
form,  being  as  wide  as  one  entire  side  of  the 
Castle.  It  is  truly  lamentable  to  view  the 
wreck  of  beautiful  sculpture,  visible  not  only  in 
the  construction  of  this  fortress,  but  all  over  the 
town  of  Parechia,  the  wretched  remnant  of  a 
city  famous    for    the  birth    of    Phidias  and  of 


(1)  TLe  name  of  this  dove-tailed  instrument  is  in  general  use 
among  architects;  bat  it  if  not  found  in  any  English  Dictionary.  Its 
origin  Is  rtrj  ascertain :  the  French  call  the  same  instrument  Loutb. 
Ptraen,  in  bis  third  volume  of  the  "  Magnificema  di  Bomkf  men- 
tions having  Jband  stones  in  antient  buildings  in  which  there  were 
cavities  for  aa  instrument  of  this  dove-tailed  shape. 

(*)  See  Vol.  III.  of  these  Travels,  Chap.  VIII.  p.  884.  Octavo 
edition. 


116 


ISLAND   OF    PAROS. 


CHAP. 
II. 


Inscrip- 
tion*. 


Praxiteles.     We  copied  part  of  an  inscription  yet 

existing  in  the  Castle  wall : 

AHPHZAIANE9HKEN 

APXfiNTOc  MEN 

Also,    near  a   windmill,   we    found    inscribed, 

"  Niciratus  son  of  Alcsus  :" 

NIKHpATOZ 
AA KAIOY 

It  may  be  said,  perhaps,  that  these  inscriptions 
are  hardly  worth  preserving ;  but  instances 
have  occurred  in  which  even  such  scraps  have 
not  been  without  utility,  in  adding  to  the  gene- 
ral stock  of  literature.  We  afterwards  found 
an  Inscription  of  greater  length  :  it  was  in  the 
left-hand  door-way  of  the  Chapel  of  St.  Nicholas, 
in  the  Church  of  St.  ITelen,  the  stone  being 
placed  in  an  inverted  position.  It  states  that 
"  The  son  of  Theocles,  who  had  conducted 

HIMSELF  WELL  IN  THE  OFFICE  OF  AgORANOMOS, 
TWICE,    IS     CROWNED    WITH     A     GOLDEN    CROWN." 

The  legend  requires  a  little  restoration,  which  is 
here  marked  by  dotted  letters. 

hboyahkaioahmozetimhzen 

KAlErrE+ANOZENXPYXXlZTE+ANn 
NftNTOPYTeNeEOKAEOYZArO 

PANOMHZANTAAIZKAAfiZKAl 
AlKAinZKATATOYZNOMOYZKAl 

KATATOKOINONnAZIZYM*EPON 


ISLAND   OF    PAROS.  119 

In   a   wall   of  the  court  we  observed  a  Lecti-  chap. 
sternium,  in  bas-relief;    but  it  had  been  white- 
washed, and  this  made  it  difficult  to  copy  an 
inscription   upon  the  marble.      In  one  part  of 
the  stone  there  appeared,  in  small  characters : 


Y0BT02AA8ANAP0Y 
IP0M0IPQ2E8IQ2A2 


Below  this  were  some  figures  in  a  reclining 
posture ;  and  then  followed,  in  larger  letters  : 

XflXAPMOY nAPAl 

EniKAIEZ  +  QIMENO 
EITAPKAiriAYPAZEn 

AZIOXAINEIX0AI 

OP+ANAMENMOPAIT 

KEIZenriAIZIXPON 

The  four  last  lines  in  this  inscription  were  evi- 
dently in  metre,  as  we  may  judge  from  the 
beginning  of  each : 

Ei  yap  Kai  navpag 

vA£ioc  alvBiaOai 
'Op^ava  fiiv  -  -  -  - 

KtiaOk)  iraial  \pov  -  - 

Similar  imperfect  remains  may  be  observed 
in  all  parts  of  the  town,  which  have  been  used 
for  building  materials,  and  generally  white- 
washed. Near  the  house  of  the  Imperial  Con- 
sul, facing  the  street,  we  saw  this  inscription  in 


f 


120  ISLAND   OF    PAROS 


chap,  the   wall:    u  Dionysius,   son   of    Euschemon, 

FAREWELL  l" 

AIONYCIOC 

EYCXHMONOC 
XPHCTEXAIPE 

Two  forms  of  the  Sigma  are  observable  in  this 
inscription.  That  the  C  and  Z  were  used  pro- 
miscuously in  very  antient  times,  has  been  fre- 
quently shewn.  The  C  was  of  the  highest 
antiquity,  and  certainly  in  use  prior  to  the  sera 
of  the  6rst  Punic  War1.  The  c  appears  on 
coins  and  marbles  of  very  antient  date8.  Some- 
what farther  on,  in  another  street,  we  found 
an  inscription   relating    to    "a    daughter    of 

AOATHEMERIS  '" 

ZaCA  PIN..OriA--A-- 

eYTATHPAe 
ATA0H  M€PI  AOC 

It  is  impossible  to  assign  any  date  to  these 
inscriptions;  in  which  not  less  than  three  dif- 
ferent forms  of  a  single  letter  may  be  observed  : 
but  this  want  of  uniformity  is  no  proof  of  the 
age  of  the  writing. 


(1)  Torremuzza  Inacript.  di  Palermo,  p.  237. 

(2)  See  P*ciandi'$  ObeerraUont   on    Medals,  bearing  the  legend 

C ASIAN  and  OPeXlCIEfiN    Man.  PHI. 84. 


ISLAND   OF   PAROS.  121 

This  day,  as  the  Governor  offered   to  accom-    c*j*R 
pany  us  to  see  the  famous  Grotto  of  Antiparos,  ***** 
and  as  our  host  had  prepared  mules  and   guides 
for  the  expedition,  we  set  off  at  eight  a.m.  and 
rode  by  the  side  of  a  mountain,  through  corn- 
fields, until  we  came  to  the  narrowest  part  of 
die  channel,    between   Paros    and    Antiparos. 
Paras  seemed  to  be  in  a  higher  state  of  cultiva- 
tion than  Naxos.     The  island  produces  excellent 
oil,  and  abundance  of  wine.     Its  ripe  olives  are 
highly  esteemed  by  the  natives  as  an  article  of 
food,  after  being  salted  for  one  day :  this  sort 
of  diet  has  been  often  deemed,  by  inconsiderate 
English  travellers  in  Italy  and  Greece,  very  hard 
fare  for  the  poor  inhabitants;  but  it  is  one  of 
their  greatest  luxuries  ;  and  we  became  as  fond 
of  it  as  the  people  everywhere  seem  to  be  from 
one  extremity  of  the  Mediterranean  to  the  other. 
As  soon  as  we  reached  the  shore  from    which  ship 
we  were  to  pass  over  to  Antiparos,  we  observed  8 
a  large  Turkish  merchant  ship,  laden  with  soap, 
and  bound  from  Crete  to  Constantinople,  stranded 
in  the  middle  of  the  strait.     The  master  of  the 
vessel,  without  any  compass,  and  with  the  usual 
fatality  attending  his  countrymen  in  their  sea 
voyages,  had  relied  upon  an  ignorant  pilot,  who 
had  persuaded   him  that  this  was  the  greater 
boceaze  between  Naxos  and  Paros,  and  the  ship 


122  ISLAND   OF   ANTIPAROS. 

chap,  in  consequence  was  driven  upon  the  shallows. 
We  went  on  board  ;  and  found  the  master 
squatted  within  his  cabin,  smoking,  and  listen- 
ing to  a  duet  performed  by  two  of  his  crew 
upon  a  drum  and  a  lyre,  while  the  rest  were 
gone  in  search  of  people  to  assist  in  hauling  the 
vessel  off  the  rocks.  Nothing  could  exceed  his 
perfect  Moslem  indifference ;  for  although  it 
seemed  to  be  doubtful  whether  his  vessel  would 
ever  move  again,  or,  if  she  did,  whether  she 
would  not  go  to  the  bottom  in  consequence  of 
the  damage  she  had  sustained,  he  would  not 
stir  from  the  seat  where  he  had  remained  from 
the  moment  the  accident  happened. 


BOS. 


antipa-  We  landed  upon  the  barren  island  of  Anti- 
paros,  and  were  conducted  by  the  Governor  to  a 
small  village ;  here  we  found  a  few  inhabitants, 
who  were  described  to  us  as  the  casual  legacies 
of  different  vessels,  and  principally  Maltese, 
taken  by  corsairs,  and  left  on  shore  to  shift  for 
themselves.  Some  of  them  provided  us  with 
mules,  ropes,  and  candles  for  the  grotto,  which 
is  situate  near  the  summit  of  the  highest 
mountain  of  Antiparos,  in  the  south  part  of  the 
island.  As  we  rode  along,  our  beasts  were  ter- 
rified by  the  attacks  of  the  gad-fly,  an  insect 
which  infests  every  one  of  the  Cyclades.   Having 


ISLAND    OF    ANTIPAROS.  123 

reached  the  top  of  the  mountain  before  men-  chap. 
tioned,  we  came  to    the    mouth   of  this    most  v^v^/ 
prodigious  cavern,  which  may  be  described  as  Grott0, 
the  greatest  natural  curiosity  of  its  kind  in  the 
known    world.      The  entrance    to    it    exhibits 
nothing  very  remarkable :  it  is  beautifully  repre- 
sented in  the  Voyage  Pittoresque  of  De  Choiseul 
Gmffierx ;   but  no  book  of  travels  ever  did  or 
ercr  can  pourtray  the  beauties  of  the  interior. 
As  to  its  origin,  it  may  possibly  have  resulted  iu  poMi- 
fiom  the  dislocation  of  an  entire  stratum ;  and    e     g  "" 
this  is  rendered  probable  by  the  oblique  direc- 
tion of  the  cavity,  and  the  parallel  inclination  of 
its  sides.     The  rock  immediately  above  it  con- 

m 

sists  of  the  following  substances.  The  upper 
surface  or  summit  of  the  mountain  is  a  stratum 
of  limestone,  inclined  very  considerably  from 
the  horizon  :  beneath  this  is  a  layer  of  schistus, 
containing  the  sort  of  marble  called  Cipolino, 
that  is  to  say,  a  mixture  of  schistus  and  marble  : 
then  occurs  the  cavity  which  forms  the  grotto, 
parallel  to  the  dipping  inclination  of  the  supe- 
rior strata ;  and  this  cavity  was  once  probably 
occupied  by  another  stratum,  succeeding  in 
regular  order  to  the  superincumbent  schistus : 
but  this  is  mere  hypothesis ;  and  any  traveller 


(1)  See  Plate  xjocvi.  p.  72.  torn.  I.    Par.  1782. 


124  ISLAND    OF    ANTIPAR08. 

chap.   who  enters  the  grotto  will  soon  perceive,  that 

v*v^»  all  the  theories  he  may  form  have  been  set  at 

nought  by  Nature,  in  the  darksome  wonders  of 

Mode  of    her  subterraneous    laboratory.      The   mode   of 

cent    descent  is   by   ropes,   which,   on    the   different 

declivities,  are  either  held    by  the  natives,  or 

they  are  joined  to  a  cable  which  is  fastened  at 

the  entrance,  around  a  stalactite  pillar.     In  this 

manner    we    were   conducted,    first  down   one 

declivity,   and    then    down    another,   until    we 

entered    the   spacious   chambers   of  this    truly 

Descrip-    enchanted  grotto.     Having  visited  the  stalactite 

tion  of  the  ° 

interior,  caverns  of  the  Gulph  of  Salernum  upon  the 
coast  of  Italy,  those  of  Terni,  and  many  others, 
the  author  expected  to  find  something  similar 
here ;  but  there  is  nothing  which  resembles  this 
grotto.  The  roof,  the  floor,  the  sides  of  a  whole 
series  of  magnificent  caverns,  are  entirely 
invested  with  a  dazzling  incrustation,  as  white 
as  snow.  Columns,  some  of  which  were  five- 
and-twenty  feet  in  length,  pended  in  fine  icicle 
forms  above  our  heads :  fortunately,  some  of 
them  are  so  far  above  the  reach  of  the  nume- 
rous travellers  who,  during  many  ages,  have 
visited  this  place,  that  no  one  has  been  able 
to  injure  or  to  remove  them.  Others  extend 
from  the  roof  to  the  floor,  with  diameters  equal 
to  that  of  the  mast  of  a  first-rate  ship  of  the 


ISLAND   OF   ANTIPAROS.  125 

fine.      The   incrustations   of  the   floor,   caused   chap. 
by  falling-drops  from  the  stalactites  above,  have 
grown  up   into  dendritic  and  vegetable  forms, 
which  first  suggested  to  Tournefort  the  strange 
notion  of  bis  having  here  discovered  the  vege- 
tation  of  stones.      Vegetation  itself  has   been 
considered  as  a  species  of  crystallization1;  and 
as  the   process  of  crystallization  is   so  surpris- 
ingly manifested  by  several  phenomena  in  this 
grotto,  some  analogy  may,  perhaps,  be  allowed 
to  exist  between  the  plant  and  the  stone  ;  but  it 
cannot  be  said  that  a  principle  of  life  existing  in 
the    former   has  been   imparted   to   the   latter. 
The   last   chamber   into    which   we   descended 
surprised    us    more    by   the   grandeur    of    its 
exhibition   than  any   other ;  and   this  seems  to 
have  been  the  same  which   Tournefort  intended 
to  represent  by  the  wretched  view  of  it  given 
in  his  work*.     Probably  there  are  many  other 
chambers    below  this,    yet  unexplored,   for   no 
attempt  has   been    made  to  penetrate  farther3 : 


(I)  See  Pairin,  Hist.  Nat.  torn.  III.  pp.  130,  140.     Par.  An  9. 
Lametktrie,  &c.  &c. 

(3)  Voyage  du  Levant,  torn.  I.  p.  227.  a  Lyon,  1717.  A  better 
idea  of  It  may  be  formed  by  seeiog  the  beautiful  Plate  engraved  by 
TUIiard,  from  a  drawing  of  the  interior  by  Hilair,  in  the  Voyage 
Piitoretque,  torn.  I.  p.  74.     Paris,  1782. 

(9)  Tournefort  mentions  an  opening  of  this  kind  :  "  A  cdte  de  cette 
tour  ee  voit  un  trou  par  ou  Ton  entre  dans  one  autre  caterne,  inais 
personne  n'osa  y  descendre."     Voy.  du  Lev.  torn,  I.  p.  231. 


126  ISLAND   OF   ANTIPAROS. 

chap,   and   if  this   be    true,   the  new  caverns,   when 
ii. 

v^v"W  opened,  would  appear  in  perfect  splendour, 
unsullied,  in  any  part  of  them,  by  the  smoke  of 
torches,  or  by  the  hands  of  intruders ;  for 
although,  in  the  general  whiteness  of  the  grotto, 
as  it  now  appears,  the  partial  injuries  its  beauty 
has  sustained  be  not  at  first  perceived,  there  are 
proofs  that,  in  the  course  of  time,  by  the  in- 
creased frequency  of  the  visits  paid  to  it,  and 
the  damage  caused  by  breaking  the  stalactites 
to  remove  as  curiosities,  the  splendid  effect 
produced  by  the  whole  must  be  diminished. 
After  this  general  description,  it  will  now  be 
proper  to  give  a  more  philosophical  detail  of 
our  observations  upon  its  natural  history. 

Nature  of      The  substance  itself  which  is  thus  deposited 

the  Stalac-  •  111  1  •  •• 

tUet.  is  purely  alabaster  ;  that  is  to  say,  it  is  a  con- 
cretion of  carbonated  lime  which  was  employed 
by  the  Antients  in  the  manufacture  of  their 
unguentary  vases1 ;  and  it  is  distinguished  by 


(1)  "THERE  CAMS  UNTO  HIM  A  WOMAN  HAYING  AN  ALABABTBB 

box  of  vert  pRBCious  ointment."  Mattheio  xxvi.  7. — The  author 
found  among  the  mint  of  the  city  of  Sais,  in  Egypt,  the  fragment  of 
one  of  the  unguentary  vases  of  the  Antients  :  it  consists  of  white  car- 
bonated alabaster,  Pliny  says,  that  the  best  alabaster  was  of  the 
colour  of  honey,  and  that  it  was  a  defect  in  the  stone  to  be  white  and 
translucid.  The  alabaster  of  Antiparos  is  of  a  honey  colour,  like  to  that 
which  comes  to  us  from  Gibraltar  in  a  manufactured  state. 


J 


ISLAND   OF   ANTIPAROS.  127 

its  chemical  constituents  from  the  alabaster  of  chap. 
modern  times,  or  yypsum>  which  is  a  sulphat  of  ^^^ 
lime.     The  formation  of  the  carbonated  alabaster 
by  the  stalactite  process,  is  now  so  well  known, 
that  its  explanation  may  be  comprehended  in 
very   few  words.      Nothing  is    more   common 
than  the  presence  of  carbonic  acid  in  water :  and 
when  a  superabundance  of  this  acid  is  present, 
the  fluid  is  capable  of  sustaining,  in  solution,  a 
portion  of  lime  carbonate ;  but  upon  the  slightest 
agitation,    or    division,  or    exposure  to  atmo- 
spheric air,  or  change  of  temperature,  the  car- 
bonic acid  makes  its  escape,  and  the  fluid,  thus 
losing  its   solvent   power,   necessarily  lets  fall 
the  Hme.      All  this  is  very  simple,  and   very 
easily    comprehended.      The   paradox  remains  Paradoii- 
now  to  be  stated :  it  is  this ;  that  these  enor-  nomenon. 
moos  stalactites,  thus  formed  during  a  series  of 
ages,  by  the  slow  and  gradual  deposition  of  lime- 
water ;  filtering  drop   by  drop  from  the  roof  of 
the  cavern,  offer  concentric  layers  only  towards 
their  superficies ;  their  interior  structure  exhi- 
biting a  completed  crystallization,  which  sepa- 
rates, by  fracture,  into  semi-transparent  rhombs, 
as  perfectly  formed  as  if  they  had  resulted  from 
a  simultaneous  instead  of  a  continuous  process. 
Almost  every  mineralogist  may  have  noticed  a 
rhomboidal  termination  of  the  small  translucid 


128  ISLAND   OF    ANTIPAROS. 

chap,  stalactites  which  are  found  at  Castleton  in  Derby- 

ii  •  • 

>^v^  shire ;  and  there  the  operation  has  been  carried 

on  in  water,  a  globule  of  which  has  remained 
constantly  suspended  at  the  point  of  each  sta- 
lactite: but  in  this  grotto,  crystallization  has 
been  the  result  of  a  modification  sustained 
by  the  whole  interior  of  a  mass  of  alabaster, 
subsequently  to  its  original  deposition.  That 
the  cavern  has  neither  been  filled  with  water, 
nor  with  any  other  fluid  than  atmospheric  air, 
is  very  evident,  by  the  formation  of  the  stalac- 
tites, which  could  not  otherwise  have  existed  as 
they  now  appear.  Every  thing  belonging  to 
them,  and  to  this  cavern,  will  tend  to  perplex 
and  to  confound  the  naturalist ;  and  many  proofs 
of  this  are  yet  to  follow.  In  the  different 
cavities,  and  between  the  interstices  of  the 
stalactites,  we  had  the  satisfaction  to  discover, 
what  no  one  had   hitherto  noticed, — the  crys- 

Crystalli-    TALLIZATION    OF    ALABASTER,    in     distinct    groups 

Alabaster,  of  large  rhoinbo'idal  primary  crystals,  upon  the 
exterior  surface  of  the  several  concretions :  and 
that  these  crystals  were  gradually  accumulating 
in  size,  until  they  met  together  and  constituted 
one  entire  mass,  was  evident,  because,  upon 
a  diligent  examination  of  all  parts  of  the  grotto, 
we  found,  that  where  the  stalactites  were  small, 
and    in   an    incipient   state,  the   crystals  upon 


ISLAND    OF   ANTIPAROS.  129 

their  surface  were  exceedingly  minute:  where  chap. 
they  were  large,  the  crystals  were  also  large, 
some  of  them  exceeding  two  inches  in  diameter. 
Another  surprising  fact  is,  that,  although  the 
outer  crust  of  these  crystals  be  opaque,  and 
similar  to  the  exterior  incrustation  of  the  con- 
cretions  themselves,  the  crystals,  when  broken, 
are  each,  and  all  of  them,  integral  parts  of  the 
stalactite  upon  which  they  have  been  formed. 
We  carefully  detached  a  great  variety  of  speci- 
mens, to  illustrate  and  to  confirm  these  obser- 
vations :  and  although  the  Waiwode  who  accom- 
panied us,  like  a  child  craving  the  toy  which 
amuses  another,  insisted  upon  having  the  finest 
specimen,  under  the  pretext  of  presenting  it 
to  his  ignorant  patron  the  Capudan  Pasha,  we 
had  the  good  fortune  to  bring  many  of  these 
specimens  to  England,  and  to  the  University  of 
Cambridge,  where  they  have  been  annually 
exhibited  during  the  Mineralogical  Lectures. 
It  was  in  that  University,  when  the  author  was 
engaged  in  shewing  them  to  the  lamented 
Tetmant,  Professor  of  Chemistry  there,  that 
the  Professor  noticed  among  the  stalactites  one 
which  was  remarkably  distinguished  from  the 
rest,  by  its  fascicular  structure,  by  its  supe- 
rior hardness,  and  by  the  appearance  of  rays 
diverging  from  a  common  centre  towards  the 

VOL.    VI.  K 


30  ISLAND   OF   ANTIPAROS. 

chap,  circumference1.  Its  fracture  is  not  rhomboidal : 
^»*»'  and  its  dispersion  into  a  powder,  by  heat,  exhibits 
the  mouldering  appearance  of  arragonite ;  and  not 
the  decrepitation  of  such  particles  of  carbonated 
lime  as  contain  water,  of  which  specific  nature 
are  the  generality  of  the  stalactites  in  this  grotto. 
From  all  these  circumstances,  Professor  Tennant 
ArragoHiu.  had  no  doubt  of  its  being  arragonite,  and  in 
the  stalactite  form,  which  had  never  before 
been  noticed.  Indeed,  the  mineral  itself  has 
been  considered  so  rare,  that  were  it  not  for  the 
attention  shewn  to  it  in  consequence  of  its 
being  the  only  anomaly  in  Hatiy's  theory  of 
crystallization,  very  little  of  its  chemical  history 
would  be  known ;  nor  can  there  be  a  greater 
inducement  now  offered  to  naturalists  to  visit 
the  Grotto  of  Antiparos,  than  the  discovery  thus 
made  of  a  new  locality  of  this  curious  sub- 
stance. Another  singular  circumstance  in  the 
nature  of  the  grotto  is,  that  the  incisions  made 
by  persons  who  have  formerly  inscribed  their 
names  in  the  alabaster^  have  been  filled  up  by  a 
natural  process  ;  and  the  letters,  so  marked,  have 
since  protruded,  in  relief,  from  the  surface  of  the 


(1)  A  similar  formation  was  noticed  by  Touaif  bfort  :  "  Distingmet 
par  six  circles  concentriques,  dotU  Us  fibres  vont  du  centre  &  la  cvrccm- 
ference."  (Vojr.  da  Lev.  torn.  I.  p.  228.  Lyon,  1717.)  It  is  remark- 
able that  the  same  writer  denies  the  dropping  of  water  in  the  grotto— 
"  II  iw  tombe  pat  one  stale  goutte  <Feau  dans  ce  lieu,"    Ibid. 


ISLAND  OF  ANTIPAROS.  131 

stone ;  which  has  hitherto  received  no  explana* '  c?.Ap' 
tion.  Some  Greek  inscriptions,  near  the  entrance,  wv^ 
prove  that  the  grotto  was  visited  in  a  very  early 
period.  One  of  them,  which  Tournefort  has 
preserved  very  entire,  mentions,  that  a  number 
of  persons,  whose  names  are  subscribed,  "  came 
thither  during  the  administration  of  Chiton." 
In  the  present  copy,  the  dotted  letters  have 
been  supplied  from  that  author*. 

Em 

KPITX1NOZ 
Ol  A EH AGON 
MENANAPOI 
ZOXAPMOZ 
MENEKPATMZ 
ANTIF1ATPOZ 
innOMEAfiN 
ApiZTEAZ 

♦  IAEAZ 

roproz 

AIOTENHZ 

♦  IAOKPATHI 

ONEZIMOZ 

Monsieur  De  Nointel,  French  ambassador  to  Sj'J^j^ 
Constantinople,  seems  to  have  flattered  himself  A0"bMM- 
that  he  was  the  first  person    who  had  ever 


(t)Voj*$eda  Levant,  LettereV.  torn.  I.  p.  SSfi.    Lfm,  1717. 

K  2 


132  ISLAND   OF  ANTIPAROfl. 

chap,   ventured  into  this  cavern.1    During  Christmas,  in 

the  year  1673,  he  caused  mass  to  be  celebrated 

in   the  grotto,   at  midnight;    remaining   here 

three  entire  days,  accompanied  by  upwards  of 

five  hundred  persons.   ;  The  cavern  was  then 

illuminated  by  four  hundred  lamps,   and  one 

hundred  large  wax  flambeaus ;  the  elevation  of 

the    host   was  accompanied   by  the  music   of 

trumpets,  hautboys,  fifes,  and  violins,  as  well  as 

by  the   discharge    of    artillery   placed   at  the 

entrance  of  the  cavern.    Two  Latin  inscriptions 

yet  record  this  subterraneous  solemnity,  which 

may  be  considered  as  ascertaining  the  epocha 

of  the  first  visit  paid  to  the  grotto  in  modern 

times.     In  the  words  which   the  Ambassador 

caused  to  be  inscribed  upon  the  base  of  the 

stalagmite  which  supplied  him '  With  an  altar  for 

the  occasion,  we  have  a  striking  example  of  the 

Roman-Catholic    faith,   as    to   the   miraculous 

presence  of   the  Messiah  in  the  consecrated 

wafer  : 

HIC  *  IPSE  *  CHRISTVS 

ADFVIT  *  EJVS  #  NATALI  #  DIE  '  MEDIA  •  NOCTE 

CELEBRATO  *  MDCLXXIII 


(1)  "  Monsieur  le  Marquis  de  Nointel,  ayant  entendu  dire,  qull 
y  a?oit  dans  l'autre  isle  roisine,  nominee  Antiparoi,  one  grotto  o& 
personne  n'osoit  entrer,  y  voulut  descendre  la  Teille  de  Noel.  Je 
m'offiris  a  l'y  accompagner,"  &e.  VEtat  present  de  VArcMpel,  de 
M<ms.M.D.L.    i  Cologne,  1678.  p.  66.    Premier*  Partio. 


RETURN   TO   PAROS.  133 

The  channel  between  the  two  islands  is  not  chap. 
more  than  a  mile  wide  :  but  it  is  two  leagues  v^v^/ 
from  the  port  of  Antiparos  to  that  of  Paros.    It 
was  this  distance  which  convinced  Tournefort 
that  Antiparos  is  the  island  called  OHaros,  or  ouam. 
Qlearos,  by  the  Antients.    We  returned  to  Paros 
highly  gratified  by  our  very  interesting  expedi- 
tion, and  carefully  packed  the  specimens  we  had 
collected* 

Wednesday,  October  the  twenty-first.  This  day  Antient 
we  set  out  upon  mules,  for  the  antient  quarries  of  Parian 
of  the  famous  Parian  marble,  which  are  situate    " 
about  a  league  to  the  east  of  the  town,  upon 
the  summit  of  a  mountain,  nearly  corresponding 
in  altitude  with  the  situation  of  the  Grotto  of 
Antiparos.    The  son  of  our  host,  a  young  mar- 
ried man,  accompanied  us.     We  rode  through 
several  olive  plantations  in  pur  ascent :  the  fruit 
of  these  trees  was  the  sole  topic  of  conversation 
with  our  worthy  guide,   who  spoke  of  a  ripe 
olive  as  the  most  delicious  dainty  which  Heaven 
had  vouchsafed  to  man  upon  earth ;  giving  him 
greater  strength,  vigour,  and  agility,  than  any 
other  kind  of  food.     "  Oh  I"  said  he,  smacking 
his  lips,  "how  we  feast  at  my  father's,  when 
olives  first  come  into  season."     The  mountain 
in  which  the  quarries   are  situate,  now  called 


134  ISLAND   OF   PAROS. 

chap.  Capressoy  is  believed1  to  have  been  the  Mar- 
ii  • 

V^v^/  pessus  mentioned  by  Serving  and  by  Stephanus 

Morpeuus.  Byzantinuf :  there  are  two  of  those  quarries. 
When  we  arrived  at  the  first,  we  found,  in  the 
mouth  of  the  quarry,  heaps  of  fragments  de- 
tached from  the  interior :  they  were  tinged, 
by  long  exposure  to  the  air,  with  a  reddish 
ochreous  hue  ;  but,  upon  being  broken,  exhibited 
the  glittering  sparry  fracture  which  often  charac- 
terizes the  remains  of  Grecian  sculpture :  and  in 
this  we  instantly  recognized  the  beautiful  marble 
which  is  generally  named,  by  way  of  distinction, 
the  Parian ;  although  the  same  kind  of  marble  be 
also  found  in  Thasof ;  and  it  is  remarkable  that 
the  inhabitants  of  Thasos  were  a  Parian  colony s# 
The  marble  of  Naxos  only  differs  from  the  Thasian 
and  Parian  in  exhibiting  a  more  advanced  state 
of  crystallization.    The  peculiar  excellence  of 


(1)  See  Toumefori  (Voy.  du  Lev.  tarn.  I. p.  839.  Lyon,  1717.)  and 
the  following  authorities  by  him  cited. 

(2)  "  Marpbsos  mons  est  Pari*  insula)."    Servuu  in  JEneid.  yi. 

(3)  MAPIIE22A  6pog  Drfpov  if?  oi  oi  Xi9oi  IZalpovrai.  Stephanus 
Byzantinus.    L.  Bat.  1094. 

(4)  For  this  remark  the  author  is  Indebted  to  Mr.  Hawkins,  the 
publication  of  whose  Travels  in  Greece  has  long  been  anxiously  expected, 
by  all  who  know  the  Industry  of  his  researches  and  the  superior  accu- 
racy of  his  observations. 

(5)'Yir6  \tik  UapUtv  IktujOij  edwg.  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  x.p.  711. 
Oxon.  1807. 


ISLAND   OP    PAROS.  135 

the  Parian  is  extolled  by  Strabo6 ;  and  it  pos-   chap. 
some  valuable  qualities  unknown  even  to 


the  Antients,  who  spoke  so  highly  in  its  praise7. 
These   qualities  are,  that  of  hardening  by  ex- 
posure to  atmospheric  air  (which,  however,  is 
common  to  all  homogeneous  limestone),  and  the  the  Pier*. 
consequent  property  of  resisting  decomposition  HaH^u 
through  a  series  of  ages, — and  this,  rather  than  ^ 
the  supposed  preference  given  to  the  Parian  8cu|Pture- 
marble  by  the  Antients,  may  be  considered  as 
the  cause  of  its  prevalence  among  the  remains 
of  Grecian  sculpture.    That  the  Parian  marble 
was  highly    and    deservedly    extolled  by  the 
Romans,  has  been  already  shewn :  but  in  a  very 
early  period,  when  the  Arts  had  attained  their 
fall  splendour  in  the  age  of  Pericles,  the  pre- 
ference was  given  by  the    Greeks,  not  to  the 
marble  of  Paros,  but  to  that  of  Mount  Pentelicus ; 
because  it  was  whiter ;  and  also,  perhaps,  be- 
cause it  was  found  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
Athens.     The  Parthenon  was  built  entirely  of 
Pcntelican  marble.     Many  of  the  Athenian  sta- 
tues, and  of  the  works  carried  on  near  to  Athens 
daring  the  administration  of  Pericles,  (as,  for 

(6)'£yfi  ryllofy  19  Uapia  Xi9oe  Xtyopivri,  Apiffrti  irp&g  rfiy  pap- 
MfcyXwfiav.    Ibid. 

(7)  "Pakos,  cam  oppido,  ab  Delo  xxxtiii  mill,  marmore  nobills; 
qmm  prima  Pactiak  (MS.  Plate  am),  poatea  Minoida  Tocarunt," 
PttL  N*.  Hist,  lib.  if.  c.  12.    X.  Bat.  1 636.  torn.  I.  p.  223. 


136  ISLAND   OF   PAROS. 

chap,  example,  the  Temple  of  Ceres  at  EleusiSj)  were 
executed  in  the  marble  of  PenteUcus.  But  the 
finest  Grecian  sculpture  which  has  been  pre- 
served to  the  present  time  is  generally  of  Parian 
marble.  The  MedicSan  Venus,  the  Behidere 
Apollo,  the  Antinous,  and  many  other  celebrated 
works,  are  of  Parian  marble ;  notwithstanding 
the  preference  which  was  so  early  bestowed 
upon  the  PenteUcan:  and  this  is  easily  ex- 
plained. While  the  works  executed  in  Parian 
marble  retain,  with  all  the  delicate  softness  of 
wax,  the  mild  lustre  even  of  their  original 
polish,  those  which  were  finished  in  PenteUcan 
marble  have  been  decomposed,  and  sometimes 
exhibit  a  surface  as  earthy  and  as  rude  as  com- 
mon limestone.  This  is  principally  owing  to 
veins  of  extraneous  substances  which  intersect 
the  PenteUcan  quarries,  and  which  appear  more 
or  less  in  all  the  works  ex  ecuted  in  this  kind  of 
marble.  The  fracture  of  PenteUcan  marble  is 
sometimes  splintery,  and  partakes  of  the  foliated 
texture  of  the  schistus  which  traverses  it ;  con- 
sequently, it  has  a  tendency  to  exfoliate,  like 
cipolvtOy  by  spontaneous  decomposition. 

We  descended  into  the  quarry,  whence  not  a 
single  block  of  marble  has  been  removed  since 
the  island  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Turks :  and 
perhaps  it    was    abandoned    long    before;    as 


ISLAND   OF   PAROS.  137 

might  be  conjectured  from  the  ochreous  colour  chap. 
by  which  all  the  exterior  surface  of  the  marble  w-v^ 
is  now  invested.      We   seemed,    therefore,   to 
view  the  grotto  exactly  in  the  state  in  which  it 
had  been  left  by  the  Antients :  all  the  cavities,  Marvellous 

.  .       .  J  .  _  '  Skill  of  the 

cut  with  the  greatest  nicety,  shewed  to  us,  by  Antients 
the  sharpness  of  their  edges,  the  number  and  ing  the 
the  size  of  all  the  masses  of  Parian  marble  which 


had  been  removed  for  the  sculptors  of  Antient 
Greece.  If  the  stone  had  possessed  the  soft- 
ness of  potter's  clay,  and  had  been  cut  by  wires, 
it  could  not  have  been  separated  with  greater 
nicety,  evenness,  and  economy.  The  most 
evident  care  was  everywhere  displayed  that 
there  should  be  no  waste  of  this  precious 
marble:  the  larger  squares  and  parallelograms 
corresponded,  as  a  mathematician  would  ex- 
press it,  by  a  series  of  equimultiples  with  the 
smaller,  in  such  a  manner  that  the  remains 
of  the  entire  vein  of  marble,  by  its  dipping 
inclination,  resembled  the  degrees  or  seats  of 
a  theatre.  It  was  impossible  to  view  such  a 
source  of  materials  which  had  exercised  the 
genius  of  the  best  Grecian  sculptors,  without 
fancying  that  we  could  ascertain  the  different 
works  for  which  the  several  masses  had  been 
removed.  "Here,"  said  we,  "were  slabs  for 
metopes  and  triglyphs;  there,  were  blocks  for 
altars  and  Doric  capitals ;  here  was  an  Apollo ; 


138  ISLAND   OF   PAROS. 

chap,  there,  a  Venus;  that  larger  cavity  may  have 
v^v*w  supplied  a  mass  for  a  Laocoon ;  from  this  place 
they  perhaps  removed  a  soros;  the  columns 
taken  hence  had  evidently  divided  shafts >  there 
being  no  cavity  of  sufficient  length  to  admit  the 
removal  of  entire  pillars"  These  and  similar 
observations  continually  escaped  us  :  but  who 
shall  explain  the  method  used  by  the  Antients 
in  hewing,  with  such  marvellous  precision,  and 
with  such  apparent  ease,  the  interior  of  this 
quarry,  so  as  neither  to  leave  one  casual  frac- 
ture, nor  anywhere  to  waste  its  produce  ?  They 
had  very  little  knowledge  of  machinery ;  but 
human  labour  was  then  of  little  value,  and  the 
most  surprising  works  may  always  be  referred 
to  ages  when  this  was  easily  obtained. 

We  quitted  the  larger  quarry,  and  visited 
another  somewhat  less  elevated.  Here,  as  if 
the  Antients  had  resolved  to  mark  for  posterity 
the  scene  of  their  labours,  we  observed  an 
Bis-reiief.  an^ent  bas -relief  upon  the  rock.  It  is  the  same 
which  Tournefort  describes1 ;  although  he  erred 
in  stating  the  subject  of  it.  It  is  a  more  curious 
relic  than  is  commonly  supposed.  The  French 
had  twice  endeavoured  to  remove  it,  by  sawing 
the  marble  behind ;  but  perceiving  that  it  would 


(1)  Voy.  da  Lev.  torn.  I.  p.  239.    h  Lyon,  1717. 


I9LAND   OF   PAROS.  139 

separate  into  two  parts  if  they  persisted,  owing  ci*ap. 
to  a  fissure  in  the  stone,  they  had  the  good  V^v%/ 
taste  to  abandon  the  undertaking.  It  repre- 
sents, in  three  departments,  a  festival  of  Silenus, 
mistaken  by  Tournefort  for  Bacchus.  The  demigod 
is  figured,  in  the  upper  part  of  it,  as  a  corpulent 
drunkard,  with  ass's  ears,  accompanied  by 
laughing  satyrs  and  dancing  girls.  A  female 
figure  is  represented  sitting,  with  a  fox  sleeping 
in  her  lap.  A  warrior  is  also  introduced,  wear- 
ing a  Phrygian  bonnet.  There  are  twenty-nine 
figures ;  and  below  is  this  inscription : 

AAAMAI 

OAPYZHZ 

NYM+AIZ 

which   may   be    thus   rendered   into  English* ;  ^JJ^ 

"  ADAMAS    ODRYSES   TO  THE   NYMPHS."  ttoJT*' 


(1)  Towrmfort,  in  his  remarks  upon  this  inscription,  maintains,  from 
Died.  Afe.  BibHoth.  Hist.  lib.  lii.  and  from  the  Adversaria  ofBarthius, 
thai  the  word  Hvpfatc,  applied  to  the  girls  of  the  island,  rather  than  to 
thcmfewuUe  divinities  who  were  called  Nymphm :  to  which  opinion  the 
r,  perhaps,  too  hastily  assented,  when.  In  the  first  edition,  he 
the  word  Nv/tfoic,  "To  the  lasses/'  or  betrothed  maidens. 
The  words  of  Barthius  are :  "  Grsdcis  intermedia  Inter  virginem  et 
sjattsrem  rvfifti  >  V^  eleganter  dlseas  ex  TheoerUo  si? e  Motchum  maris 
iseStrmoPA: 

*H  &  wapos  Kovpri,  Znvof  ykvtr*  avrixa  vi>p+tl9 
Kai  Kpovity  ritva  tIkti,  col  avrUa  yivtro  prjTtjp." 

BarthU  Adverser,  lib.  xxtI.  cap.  4.    Franco/.  1624, 
Bel  Vmlckener  has  the  following  observation  upon  the  conclusion  of  the 

Eubofa : 


140  ISLAND   OF   PAROS. 

chap.  Chandler,  in  his  Travels  in  Greeee,  describes  the 
wrv%>  Nymphceumnear  Vary  in  Attica ;  and  gives  three 
inscriptions1,  one  of  which  purports  that  "  Archi- 
damus  made  the  Cave  for  the  nymphs."  In  an- 
other inscription,  found  in  the  same  Cave  of  the 
Nymphs,  the  latter  part,  whether  designedly  or 
not,  is  an  Iambic  trimeter4.  In  the  Corydan 
Cave,  the  existence  of  which  was  discovered 
by  the  author  in  a  subsequent  part  of  these 
Travels,  although  he  did  not  then  visit  the 
place3,  some  of  his  friends  found  an  inscription 
to  Pan  and  the  Nymphs?  ;  therefore  this  kind  of 
dedication  was  common  in  Greece.  The  marble 
in  both  these  quarries  was  excavated  by  the 
origin  of,  light  of  lamps ;  and  to  this  circumstance  Pliny 
attributes  one  of  its  names,  Lychnites5.     The 


Europa  :  "  Ultimas  mibi  carminis  versos  fuisse  videtor  :  *H  &  irapoc 
Kovpij,  Zijrfc  fiver*  abrUa  vv/ifVqaiqaeteqaiUirvenashtjiispoematis 
eonditore  indignns."   MOSX  T  EIAYAAION  (F.  p.  368.  L.  Bat.  1781. 

(1)  See  Inscript.  Antiq.  p.  76. 

(2)  4>pa&u<rt  No/i^wv  Avrpov  ilnpynffaro, 

(3)  See  *  Tomb  of  Alexander,"  p.  158.    Comb.  1805. 

(4)  riavtWrpfatc.  The  inscription  was  discovered  by  Mr.  (now  Sir 
Willkm)  QeU.  Mr.  Raihes  found  also  here  a  small  terracotta 
vessel,  elegantly  formed,  which  the  Antients  had  left,  as  a  vow,  in 
the  cave. 

(5)  "  Omnes  antem  candido  marmore  nsi  sunt  e  Paro  insula,  qoem 
lapidem  coBpere  Ltchnitew  appeHare,qaoniam  ad  lucernes  in  cnnieolii 
caderetar."  Plin.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  xxxvl.  c.  5.  torn.  III.  p.  468.  L.  Bat. 
1636. 


ISLAND   OF   PAR08.  141 

same    appellation    occurs    also    in    AthenatuP.    chap. 

•  ii« 

With 'regard  to  the  image  of  SUenus,  in  the  has-  wvw 

relief,  it  has  never  been  observed  that  Pliny 
mentions  it,  as  a  natural  curiosity,  and  one  of 
the  marvels  of  Antient  Greece.  The  figure  of 
Silenua  was  accidentally  discovered,  as  a  lusus 
Naturce,  in  splitting  the  rock ;  and,  of  course, 
all  the  other  parts  of  this  piece  of  sculpture  had 
been  adjusted  by  Odryses  to  assist  the  repre- 
sentation, when  he  dedicated  his  work  to  the 
Nymphs.  Such  a  method  of  heightening  and 
of  improving  any  casual  effect  of  this  kind  has 
been  very  common  in  all  countries,  especially 
where  the  populace  are  to  be  deluded  by  some 
supposed  prodigy :  and  thus  the  cause  is  ex- 
plained why  this  singular  piece  of  sculpture,  so 
rudely  executed,  yet  remains  as  a  part  of  the 
natural  rock ;  whence  it  would  be  an  act  of 
worse  than  Gothic  barbarity  to  remove  it  "  A 
wonderful  circumstance,"  says  Pliny1,  "is  re- 
lated of  the  Parian  quarries.  The  mass  of  entire  S^f^ 
stone  being  separated  by  the  wedges  of  the 
workmen,  there  appeared  within  it  an  effigy 
of  Silenus."     In  the  existence  of  this  bas-relief 


(6)  A£0o£  Av%vf vq.    Atken.  Deipn.  lib.  ▼. 

(7)  "  Sed  in  Pariorun  mirabile  proditur,  gleb&  lapidii  unius  cuneia 
dhidenUum  tolutik,  imaginem  8ilbni  intui  extititM."  Plin.  Hist* 
Nat.  lib.  xzxtI.  c.  5.  torn.  III.  p.  468.    L.  Bat.  1635. 


142  I8LAND   OF   PAROS. 

chap,  as  an  integral  part  of  the  natural  rock,  and  in 
the  allusion  made  to  it  by  Pliny,  we  have 
sufficient  proof  that  these  were  antient  quar- 
ries1 ;  consequently  they  are  the  properest 
places  to  resort  to  for  the  identical  stone 
whose  colour  was  considered  as  pleasing  to 
the  Oodf9  which  was  used  by  Praxitelef,  and 
by  other  illustrious  Grecian  sculptors,  and  cele- 
brated for   its   whiteness   by   Pindar*  and  by 


(1)  This  curious  bas-relief,  together  with  the  entrance  to  the  quarry 
which  contained  it,  are  represented  in  the  Voyage  Pittoresque  of  Count 
de  Choiseul  Gouffier,  (Voyage  Pittoresque  de  la  Greee,  tome  I.  p.  68. 
Paris,  1782.)  bat  with  more  attention  to  the  effect  of  a  beautiful  pie- 
tore  than  to  accuracy  of  design.  The  plates  in  this  magnificent  work 
are  almost  equal,  in  their  style  of  composition,  and  In  their  execution, 
to  the  engravings  of  Audran,  from  paintings  by  Xe  Brim;  and  that  to 
which  allusion  is  now  made  is  faithful  in  every  thing,  except  in  the 
detail  of  this  piece  of  antient  sculpture.  A  reference  to  the  French 
work,  will,  however,  serve  to  shew  its  situation  in  the  quarry,  and 
render  unnecessary  any  further  attempt  at  delineation,  where  the 
manner  of  it  must  necessarily  be  so  very  inferior.  The  antiquity  itself 
is  the  greatest  curiosity  in  the  island ;  and  perhaps,  from  the  circum- 
stance which  Pliny  has  mentioned,  it  will  excite  the  attention  of  tra- 
vellers more  than  it  has  hitherto  done. 

(2)  Plato  de  Leg.  torn.  II.  lib.  xii.  p.  296. 

(3)  "Praxitelem  Paria  vindieat  arte  lapis"  Propertius,  lib.  ML 
Eleg.  vii.  16.  Also,  Quinctilian,  lib.  ii.  19.  "  Praxiteles  signmm 
a&quod  e  molari  lapxde  conatus  est  exsculpere,  Parium  marmor  vellem 
rude ;"  Sec.  See  also  a  curious  Treatise  of  Blasius  CaryophUus  (vulgo 
Biagio  Oarafolo,  Neapolitanus),  entitled  "  De  Antiquit  Marmoribus 
Opusculum,"  p.  10.  Utrecht,  1743 :  and  the  numerous  authors  therein 
cited. 

(2)  Vid.  Nem.  Ode  IV.  p.  262.    Genev.  1626. 

EraXav  Oiptv  Uapiov 
AiOov  XtvKOripav. 


ISLAND   OF   PABOS.  143 

Tkeocrihuf.  We  collected  several  specimens :  in  chap. 
breaking  them,  we  observed  the  same  whiteness 
and  brilliant  fracture  which  characterizes  the 
marble  of  Naxos,  but  with  a  particular  distinc- 
tion before  mentioned — the  Parian  marble  being 
harder,  having  a  closer  grain,  and  a  less  foliated 
texture.  Three  different  stages  of  crystallization 
may  be  observed,  by  comparing  the  three  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  marble,  dug  at  Carrara  in  Italy,  in 
Paras,  and  in  Naxos ;  the  Carrara  marble  being 
milk-white6  and  less  crystalline  than  the  Parian  ; 
and  the  Parian  whiter7  and  less  crystallized  than 
the  Naxian :  lastly,  as  a  completion  of  the  pro- 
cess  of  crystallization,  may  be  mentioned  the 


(6)  Theocritus  (Idyll,  vi.  38.)  compare*  the  whiteness  of  teeth  with 
Perismmarbie: 

—  rSnf  ii  r*  6$6vrw 
AtVKoripav  aiiyav  HooIoq  vwifaivt  \L9oio. 

(8)  PHnf/  mentions  the  superior  whiteness  of  the  Carrara  marble, 
hi  comparing  it  with  the  Parian.  The  quarries  of  Carrara  are  the 
Twrnuian  of  that  author ;  Lima  being  the  name  of  a'  city,  and 
Lsmensis  that  of  a  promontory  near  to  the  modern  Carrara,  "  Moltis 
•ostea  eandldioribafl  repertis,  nuper  etiam  in  Lunensium  lapidiclnis.'* 
Pa*.  Hist.  Nat.  Kb.  ctxyI.  e.  5.  tarn.  III.  p.  468.  L.  Bat.  1635. 
•  (7)  Although  the  Parian  were  not  the  whitest  marble  known  to  the 
Astieats,  at  appears  by  the  preceding  Note,  yet  its  whiteness  was  one 
of  its  great  celebrity.    It  is  thus  described  in  the  Itinerary  of 


IVSYLA  PABOS 

IV  HAC  LAPIS  CANDIDIS8IKYS  VASCITYR 

QYI  DICITYR  PARIYS. 


144  ISLAND  OF   PAROS. 

chap,  stalactites;  or  alabaster,  of  Antiparos  ;  in  which 
v^S^/  the  same  chemical  constituents  are  perfectly 
crystallized ;  exhibiting  the  rhomboidal  fracture, 
and  having  the  specific  gravity  of  the  Iceland 
spar ;  which,  in  all  probability,  is  also  a  stalactite. 
Theory  of  These  phenomena  oppose  striking  facts  to  the 
satum.  Plutonian  theory  of  the  crystallization  of  carbo- 
nated lime  by  means  of  heat  and  pressure :  not 
that  the  author  wishes  to  maintain  any  argu- 
ment against  the  possibility  of  crystallization  by 
means  of  heat,  because  all  that  seems  necessary 
for  crystallization  is  a  separation  of  particles,  and 
a  subsequent  retreat.  Whether  this  separation 
be  effected  by  solution,  or  by  fusion  (which  is 
only  another  name  for  solution) ;  and  whether 
the  retreating  body  be  an  aqueous  fluid  or  the 
fluid  matter  of  heat ;  a  regularity  of  structure  may 
equally  become  the  result :  basaltic  forms  have 
been  recognised  in  the  bottom  of  a  furnace1,  as 
well  as  upon  the  borders  of  a  lake8.  The  facts 
now  adduced  are  opposed,  it  is  true,  to  the 
Plutonian    theory ;    because    they    prove    the 


(1)  A  specimen  exhibiting  a  basaltic  configuration,  as  found  In  the 
bottom  of  an  Iron  furnace,  Is  preserred  In  the  Royal  Collection  at 
Stockholm. 

(2)  Witness  the  lakes  in  the  Sooth  of  Sweden;  the  Lake  of 
BoUenna  in  Italy;  the  Lake  of  Gennesareth  in  the  Holy  Land; 
&c.  &c. 


ISLAND   OF    PAKOS.  145 

crystallization  of  carbonated  lime  by  an  aqueous   chap. 
process  :  but  they  affect  this  theory  only  as  a 
system  which  generalizes  too  much  from  partial 
appearances,  in    explaining    the    formation   of 
mineral  bodies. 


vol.   VI.  i, 


Firit   fig/it  of  Athens. 


CHAP.  III. 


PABOS  TO  ATHBtfB. 

Voyage  to  Syros — Affecting  Interview — Syra — 
Plants — Remains  of  Antient  Customs — Gems 
and  Medals — State  of  the  Island — Voyage  to 
Gyanis  —  Hydriots  —  Wretched  Condition  of 
Jura — Voyage  to  Zia  —  Cartheea  —  Ravages 
committed  by  the  Russians — Ruins  of  Ioulis — 
Medals — Hospitality  of  the  Modern  Greeks — 
Antient  Dances — Produce  of  Zia — Minerals 
— The  Author  sails  for  Athens — View  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Sinus  Saromcus — Suntum 
—  Temple  of  Minerva  Sunias — Anecdote  of 
a  Naval  Officer — Patrocleia — Other  Islands 


VOYAGE   TO   SYROS.  147 

in  the  Saronio  Gulph — Calaurea — Albanians 
— JElimbd — First  Sight  of  Athens — Zoster 
Promontory — Doubtful  Story  of  Minerva's 
Statue— Arrival  at  the  Piraeeus — Approach  to 
Athens. 

From    the   quarries    of    Marpessus    we    de-   chap. 

Bcended  again  to  Parechia ;  and  the  next  day,  ^»v^/ 
the  wind  being  favourable,  although  somewhat 
boisterous,  we  embarked,  and  set  sail  for  Syros,  voyage  to 
now  called  Syra.  Our  Captain  would  have  yrot% 
steered  for  Delos  :  but  this  island,  since  the  visit 
paid  to  it  by  the  Russians,  has  been  stripped  of 
all  its  valuable  antiquities ;  besides  this,  the  gale 
we  had  encountered  between  Patmos  and  Naxos 
had  somewhat  intimidated  us ;  and  as  our  crazy 
old  caique  was  not  sea-worthy,  we  resolved  to 
run  for  the  most  western  port  in  our  course 
towards  the  Sinus  Saronicus,  now  called  the  Gulph 
of  JEngia,  from  a  modern  name  of  the  Island  of 
jEgina.  We  saw  the  Delian  Isles,  as  we  passed 
with  a  rapidity  known  only  to  the  swallows1  of 
the  Archipelago,  and  entered  the  harbour  of  Syra 
in  the  morning  of  October  the  twenty-second. 
Our  faithful  Greek  servant,  who  had  travelled 
with  us  as  our  interpreter  ever  since   we   left 


(l)  This  is  one  of  the  names  given  to  the  boats  used  for  navigating 
the  Archipelago. 

L   2 


148  ISLAND   OF   SYROS. 

chap.  Petersburg j  burst  into  tears  at  the  sight  of  a 

>^v-i^  small  chapel  constructed  upon   a  rock  in  the 

port,  which  he  had  himself  assisted  in  building 

some  years   before.      He   described   it  as  the 

votive  offering  of  a  party  of  young   Greeks  to 

Affecting  their  patron  Saint :   but  his  feelings  experienced 

interview.  a  geverer  trjaj  when   we  landed  j   for  in  the 

person  of  an  old  man,  established  as  a  wine- 
seller  upon  the  quay,  he  recognised  his  own 
father,  of  whose  fortunes  and  situation  he  had 
long  been  ignorant.  The  islanders  bore  a  part 
in  the  joy  of  this  meeting ;  and  their  national 
hospitality  was,  in  consequence,  redoubled. 
All  the  young  people  c^me  to  express  their 
congratulations,  and  a  party  began  the  M&tnScaK 
Antonio  hastened  again  on  board  for  his  balalaika*, 
and,  joining  the  festive  throng,  gave  himself  up 
entirely  to  singing  and  dancing  for  the  remainder 
of  the  day  and  night.     Towards  evening,  we 


(1)  The  RonUca,  the  most  popular  of  all  the  dancea  of  the  Modern 
Greeks,  is  faithfully  and  beautifully  represented  in  the  Voyage 
PUtoresque  de  la  Greet  of  Count  Be  Choiscul  Gouffler,  from  a  drawing 
by  J.  B.  Hilair,  engraved  by  Martini.  See  Plate  facing  p.  68.  vol.  I. 
of  that  work,  Paris,  1782.  "  The  passion  of  the  Greeks  for  dancing,0 
(says  Mons.  De  Guys,  vol,  I.  p.  208.  Lond.  1781,)  "  is  common  to  both 
sexes;  who  neglect  every  other  consideration,  when  they  have  an 
opportunity  of  indulging  that  passion." 

(2)  The  antient  guitar  of  Scythia  and  Tahiary.  See  Pari  I.  of  these 
Travels,  Plate  facing  p.  244.  Second  edit.  Quarto.  Broxbourn,  181 1 ; 
exhibiting  its  use  among  the  Calmuck  tribes. 


ISLAND   OF   SYROS.  149 

saw  him  in  the  midst  of  a  very  numerous  choir,    chap. 
inviting  us  to  taste  of  the  wine  with  which  his 
father  was  making  libations  to  all  comers. 

The  town  of  Syra  is  built  upon  the  summit  of  syra. 
a  lofty  hill,  so  remarkable  for  its  conical  form 
that  it  may  be  compared   to  a  vast  sugar-loaf 
covered  with  houses.     At  the  base  of  this  cone 
is  the    quay,   where   there    are   several   ware- 
houses for  supplying  vessels  with  the  produce  of 
the  island,   which  is  principally  wine.     There 
are  some  ruins  near  the  port ;  and  many  antient 
marbles  are  said  to  remain  buried  behind  the 
magazines.     We  met  the  English  Consul  soon 
after  we  landed,  and  accompanied   him  to  his 
house  in   the   town ;    where   we  were   regaled 
with  an  excellent  conserve,  highly  esteemed  by 
the  Greeks,   made  of  the  apples  (as  they  are 
called)  of  a  species  of  Sage,  the  Salvia  pomifera. 
these  apples  are  produced  in  the  same  manner 
as  galls  upon  the  oak,  and  they  are  owing  to 
punctures  made  by  a  species  of  Cynips  in  the 
branches  of  the  plant     The  common  Sage  of  the 
Island   of  Crete    has   the  same   excrescences ; 
which  are  there  carried  to  market  under  the 
name  of  Sage-applet.     This  conserve  is  said  to 

(3)  Tournef.  Voy.  du  Lev.  torn.  I.  p.  93.    Lyon,  1717. 


150  ISLAND   OF  8TROS. 

chap,   possess  the  healing  and  salutary  quality  of  Sage 
in   general :    we   perceived  in  it  an  agreeable 


astringent,  and  somewhat  bitter  flavour ;  but  as 
almost  any  vegetable  may  be  used  for  con- 
serves, and  the  savour  is  often  owing  to  other 
ingredients,  very  little  of  this  taste  might  be 
owing  to  the  Sage.  The  plant  itself  thrives 
abundantly  upon  this  island,  growing  to  the 
size  of  a  small  shrub.  Sage  leaves  are  collected 
annually  by  the  Greeks,  and  dried,  to  be  used 
medicinally,  as  an  infusion  :  they  are  very  par- 
ticular in  the  time  and  manner  of  collecting 
these  leaves ;  they  are  gathered  on  the  first  of 
May,  before  sun-rise.  The  flavour  and  smell 
of  the  Grecian  Sage  is  much  more  powerful  than 
in  the  Salvia  officinalis,  so  common  in  the  English 
gardens.  We  sometimes  drank  an  infusion  of 
the  leaves,  instead  of  tea :  it  had  the  effect  of 
exciting  a  profuse  perspiration,  and  perhaps 
may  be  useful  in  those  dangerous  obstructions 
to  which  perspiration  is  liable  in  an  Eastern 
climate;  but  it  produces  languor,  and  even 
faintness,  if  it  be  used  to  excess.  In  mentioning 
Plants,  the  plants  of  Syra9  there  is  one  of  so  much 
beauty  and  rarity,  that  it  ought  not  to  pass 
without  especial  notice :  it  is  called  the  Tree 
Pink,  Dianthus  Arboreus,  and  pre-eminently 
merits  its  lofty  name  of  AI02  AN90S.    It  grows 


ISLAND   OF   8YROS.  151 

also  in  Seriphos:  but  Syra  is  the  only  place  chap. 
in  all  Greece  whence  we  were  able  to  obtain 
specimens ;  and  we  did  not  find  these  ourselves 
upon  the  island1.  Perhaps  the  season  was  too 
far  advanced  to  observe  this  beautiful  ornament 
of  the  Grecian  Isles ;  for  we  were  unable  to  find 
many  other  rarities  which  have  been  described 
as  natives  of  Syra,  although  we  remained  two 
days  in  search  of  them,  particularly  the  plant 
which  produces  the  Persian  Manna,  mentioned 
by  Tournefort*,  Hedysarum  Alhagi.  The  Dian- 
ihus  arboreus,  both  in  Syra  and  in  Seriphof, 
sprouts  out  of  the  crevices  of  the  most  rugged 
and  otherwise  barren  rocks.  It  was  raised 
from  seed  in  the  Royal  Garden  at  Paris,  in  the 
time  of  Tournefort ;  "  where,"  says  this  author4, 
44  it  has  sustained  no  change  by  its  altered 
situation,  but  maintains  the  honour*  of  Greece 


(1)  We  were  indebted  for  them  to  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Dodwell, 
vko  Tisited  Syra,  in  company  with  Sir  William  Oell.  The  former  has 
■face  distinguished  himself  by  bis  indefatigable  researches  in  Greece, 
particularly  by  the  attention  he  has  bestowed  upon  the  antient  sepul- 
Aiw  of  the  country. 

(3)  Tournefort,  Voyage  du  Levant,  torn*  II.  p.  4.  Lyon,  1717.  It 
»  the  Alhagi  Maurorum  of  Rauwolf.  Sir  Qeorge  Wheler  found  it  in 
Tern*.  Manna  is  found  on  this  plant,  in  Mesopotamia,  and  in  other 
B**tem  countries.  (See  RusseVs  Aleppo.)  It  grows  plentifully  near 
Tmirit. 

0)  Tournef.  ibid.  torn.  I.  p.  210. 

W  Ibid. 


152  ISLAND    OF   SYROS. 

chap,    amidst  an  infinite  number  of  rare  plants  from 

in 
v^rw  the  same  country.9'     No  traveller  has  yet  added 

this  very  uncommon  species  of  Dianthus  to  the 

botanic  gardens  of  our  island. 

There  is  no  other  town  or  village  upon  the 
island  excepting  this,  which  so  singularly  coven 
the  sugar-loaf  hill  above  the  quay;  and  the 
number  of  inhabitants  does  not  exceed  four 
thousand,  almost  all  of  whom  profess  the  Catholic 
Bfm^t  religion  :  yet  there  is  no  part  of  the  Archipelago 
cufttoms.  where  the  traveller  will  find  the  antient  customs 
of  Greece  more  purely  preserved.  Syros  was 
the  original  name  of  the  town,  as  well  as  of  the 
island.  -  Some  traces  of  its  ruins  still  exist  near 
the  port.  The  modern  town  of  Syra  probably 
occupies  the  site  of  the  antient  Acropolis.  The 
island  has  always  been  renowned  for  the  advan- 
tages it  enjoys,  in  the  excellence  of  its  port,  in 
its  salubrity,,  and  its  fertility.  It  is  on  this 
account  extolled  by  Homer1.  It  produces  101*4 
jigs,  cotton,  barley,  and  also  wheat,  although  not 
so  plentifully  as  barley.  We  saw  an  abundance 
of  poultry,  and  a  very  fine  breed  of  pigs;  but  the 
streets  of  the  town  are  as  dirty  and  as  narrow 
as  they  probably  were  in  the  days  of  Homer.     If 


( 1 )  .Ety3oro£, « v/iijXof ,  oivoir\fj6fcf  iroXvirvpog.    Odyu.  O.  t.  405. 


) 


\ 


ISLAND    OF   SYROS.  153 

the  antient  Persians  have  been  characteristically    chap. 
,        .,    ,        ,  J      in.  i 

described  as  the  worshippers  of  fire,  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Syra>  both  antient  and  modern,  may  be 
considered  as  the  worshippers  of  water.     The 
old  fountain,  at  which  the  nymphs  of  the  island 
assembled  in  the  earliest  ages,  exists  in  its  ori- 
ginal state ;    the    same   rendezvous  as   it  was 
formerly,  whether  of  love  and  gallantry,  or  of 
gossipping  and  tale-telling.     It  is  near  to  the 
town,  and  the  most  limpid  water  gushes  con- 
tinually from  the  solid  rock.     It  is  regarded  by 
the  inhabitants  with  a  degree  of  religious  vene- 
ration; and  they  preserve  a  tradition  that  the 
pilgrims  of  old  time,  in  their  way  to  Delos, 
resorted  hither  for  purification.     We  visited  the 
spot  in  search  of  an  Inscription  mentioned  by 
Tourneforf,  but  we  could  not  find  it ;  we  saw, 
however,  a  pleasing  procession,  formed  by  the 
young  women  of  the  island,  coming  with  songs, 
and  carrying  their  pitchers  of  water  on  their 
heads,  from  this  fountain.     Here  they  are  met 
by  their  lovers,  who   relieve  them  from   their 
bordens,  and  bear  a  part  in  the  general  chorus. 
It  is  also  the  scene  of  their  dances,  and  there- 
fore the  favourite  rendezvous  of  the  youth  of 
both  sexes.     The  Eleus'mian  women  practised  a 

(3)  Tomrntf.  Voj.  du  Lev.  torn.  II.  p.  4.    Lyo*f  1717. 


154  ISLAND   OF   BYROS. 

chap,  dance  about  a  well  which  was  called  Callichorus, 
and  their  dance  was  also  ac com  pan  fed  by  songs 
in  honour  of  Ceres.  These  "  Songs  of  the  Well" 
are  still  sung  in  other  parts  of  Greece  as  well  as 
in  Syra.  De  Guys  mentions  them.  He  says 
that  he  has  seen  the  young  women  in  Princes 
Island,  assembled  in  the  evening  at  a  public 
well,  suddenly  strike  up  a  dance,  while  othere 
sung  in  concert  to  them1.  The  Antient  Poets 
composed  verses  which  were  sung  by  the 
people  while  they  drew  the  water,  and  were 
expressly  denominated  "  Songs  of  the  Well." 
Aristotle,  as  cited  by  Winkelmann,  says  the 
public  wells  serve  as  so  many  cements  to 
society,  uniting  the  people  in  bands  of  friend- 
ship by  the  social  intercourse  of  dancing  so 
frequently  together  around  them*.  This  may 
serve  to  explain  the  cause  of  the  variety  of 
beautiful  lamps,  pitchers,  and  other  vessels  of 
terra  cotta,  which  have  been  found  at  the  bottom 
of  wells  in  different  parts  of  Greece  ;  as  well  as 
to  direct  the  attention  of  travellers  towards  the 
cleansing  of  dry  wells,  who  are  desirous  of  pro- 
curing those  valuable  antiquities.  Among  other 
antient  customs  still  existing  in  Syra,  the  cere- 


(1)  Letters  oo  Greece,  vol.  I.  p.  220.    LoruL  1781. 
(2;  Ibid. 


ISLAND   OF   SYROS.  155 

monies  of  the  vintage  are  particularly  conspi-  chap. 
cuous.  Before  sun-rise,  a  number  of  young  ww 
women  are  seeing  coming  towards  the  town, 
covered  with  the  branches  and  leaves  of  the 
vine;  when  they  are  met  or  accompanied  by 
their  lovers,  singing  loud  songs,  and  joining  in 
a  circular  dance.  This  is  evidently  the  orbicular 
chair1  who  sung  the  Dithyrambi,  and  danced  that 
species  of  song  in  praise  of  Bacchus.  Thus  do 
the  present  inhabitants  of  these  islands  exhibit 
a  faithful  portraiture  of  the  manners  and  cus- 
toms of  their  progenitors:  the  ceremonies  of 
Antient  Greece  have  not  been  swept  away  by  the 
revolutions  of  the  country:  even  the  represen- 
tations "of  the  theatre,  the  favourite  exhibitions 
of  the  Attic  drama,  are  yet  beheld,  as  they 
existed  among  the  people  before  they  were 
removed  from  the  scenes  of  common  life  to 
become  the  ornaments  of  the  Grecian  stage. 

Some  very  fine  gems  and  medals  were  shewn  Oem9  and 

«  •  Medals. 

to  us  by  a  native  of  Syra:  but  the  price  he 
demanded  for  them  exceeded  all  moderation. 
One  of  the  gems  was  of  high  antiquity.  It  was 
an  intaglio  of  red  jasper  ;  the  subject,  Pegasus, 


(3)  'ByrvcXiocxopoc-     Sw  V*  Guys,  vol.  I.  p.  218;  and  the  authors 
by  him  cited. 


156  ISLAND   OF   8YROS. 

chap,   with  wiugs  inflected  towards  the  head,  in  the 
in. 

most  antient  style  of  the  art;  a  boar  was  also 

introduced,  with  the  singular  representation  as 
of  a  battering  ram  projecting  from  its  breast. 
Among  the  medals  there  were  two  of  silver,  in 
good  preservation.  The  first  was  of  Chios :  it  ex- 
hibited, in  front,  a  winged  sphinx :  and  for  reverse, 
the  dicta,  with  this  legend,  APrEIOXXIOX. 
The  other  was  very  small,  but  of  extraordinary 
beauty  ;  probably  it  was  of  Clazomenm  in  Ionia, 
and  possibly  of  Citium  in  Cyprus1.  The  head  of 
a  youthful  Deity  appeared  in  front,  in  very  high 
relief;  and  the  reverse,  equally  prominent, 
exhibited  the  image  of  a  ram  couched.  Among 
all  the  subjects  represented  upon  Grecian 
medals,  nothing  is  more  rare  than  the  figure  of 
this  very  common  quadruped.  Almost  every 
other  sacred  animal  may  be  observed :  but  the 
sheep,  so  often  the  object  of  sacrifice,  not  only 
seldom  occurs,  but  when  it  has  been  found 
upon  an  antient  medal,  it  is  always  upon  one  of 
the  highest  antiquity,  destitute  of  any  legend, 
and  which  generally  classes,  in  numismatic  col- 
lections, among  coins  of  uncertain  or  of  un- 
known origin.  The  cause  of  this  has  not  been 
explained. 

(1)  See  the  Vignette  to  Chap.  II.  Vol.  IV,  of  the  8to.  edition  of 
these  TrtTelf. 


ISLAND    OF   SYROS.  157 

The  minerals  of  Syra  are  rather  remarkable,  chap. 
considering  the  prevalence  of  limestone  among  *^>r*> 
the  Grecian  Isles.  We  found  fragments  of  green 
steatites  and  schistus  containing  garnet.  The  mer- 
cury in  Fahrenheit's  thermometer  stood  at  75° 
at  noon,  on  the  first  day  after  our  arrival,  and  at 
78°  upon  the  second ;  which  is  the  average 
temperature  of  the  city  of  Naples,  during  the 
summer  months,  situate  above  three  degrees 
nearer  to  the  pole :  and  as  the  climates  both  of 
Italy  and  Greece  are  very  regular,  this  autumnal 
temperature  in  Syra  is  about  commensurate  to  state  of 

r  *  m        the  Island. 

the  difference  of  latitude.  There  is  not  a  Turk 
to  be  found  upon  the  island :  its  inhabitants  are 
ill  Greeks;  and  as  they  profess  the  Catholic 
religion,  it  might  have  afforded  a  comfortable 
asylum  for  many  of  those  expatriated  French- 
men  who  were  driven  by  the  calamities  of  their 
country  all  over  the  Levant;  some  of  whom  we  had 
seen  in  places  of  residence  less  suited  to  their 
circumstances,  and  where  they  were  exposed  to 
inconveniences  which  they  would  not  l^ave 
encountered  in  this  healthy  and  wealthy  island. 

Saturday,  October  the  ttventy-fourth,  a  light  voyage  to 

.  •    i  i  i  Qyarus. 

wind  tempted  us  to  weigh  anchor  at  three  a.  m. 
intending  to  sail  for  Ceos,  now  called  Zia. 
After  we  left  the  port,  we  were  becalmed :  but 


158        "  VOYAGE   TO    GYARUS. 

chap,  about  eight,  we  found  ourselves  to  be  near  to 
the  Island  of  Tenos;  and  at  nine,  the  wind 
coming  aft,  we  bore  away  for  Gyarus,  now 
called  Jura.  After  we  had  doubled  the  northern 
point  of  Syra,  we  saw  the  Promontory  of 
Eub(ea,  called  Carpharie;  also  Andros,  Jura, 
and  Zia.  Jura  is  only  twelve  geographical 
miles  from  the  nearest  point  of  Syra ;  it  is  now 
almost  uninhabited  ;  but  we  were  curious  to 
visit  a  spot  alluded  to  by  Juvenal1  as  a  place  of 
banishment  for  Roman  criminals :  and  soon 
afterwards  we  landed.  The  Master  of  our 
caique  wished  to  sail  between  Fome  rocks  into 
the  harbour ;  and  for  this  purpose  desired  us  to 
ascend  the  heights,  and  point  out  a  passage  for 
the  vessel.  When  we  had  done  this,  we  clearly 
discerned  the  rocks  below  the  surface,  and 
were  much  amazed  at  the  very  great  depth  in 
the  water  which  our  situation  enabled  us  to 
view.  Being  within  bearing  of  the  crew,  we 
called  to  them,  and  gave  them  instructions  how 
to  steer ;  by  which  means  the  caique  was  con- 
ducted through  a  gorge  where  none  but  Greek 
sailors  would  think  of  venturing.  While  we 
were  in  this  situation,  looking  down  upon  the 
vessel   and   the    harbour,  there  came  suddenly 


(1)  "  A  ode  alfquid  brovibtu  Gyaris  et  carcere  dignum."    Juv.  Sat, 


BAY    OF   JCJRA.  159 

round  the  northern  point  of  the  island  a  long  chap. 
narrow  open  boat,  like  a  dart,  filled  with  mari-  >-^^ 
ners,  believed  by  our  sailors  to  be  Hydriots,  to  Hydriots. 
the  number  of  thirty  or  forty,  all  plying  their 
oars ;  who  presently  landed,  removed  from  the 
roeks  some  spars  which  they  had  previously 
left  there,  and  pushing  out  again  to  sea,  disap- 
peared with  the  same  surprising  velocity  with 
which  they  had  arrived.  We  saw  their  little 
bean-cod,  as  it  were  instantaneously,  reduced 
to  a  speck  upon  the  waves :  and  while  we  were 
admiring  the  dauntless  intrepidity  with  which 
these  men,  in  a  bark  that  could  be  compared 
only  to  a  long  canoe,  ventured  to  cross  such  a 
dangerous  sea,  our  Captain  arrived ;  who  said 
we  might  thank  our  good  stars  that  they  did 
not  plunder  our  vessel  of  every  thing  she  con- 
tained. He  added,  that  there  was  not  a  part  of 
the  Archipelago  which  the  Hydriots  would  not 
traverse  in  such  a  boat,  venturing  in  all  wea- 
ther, and  braving  the  most  tempestuous  seas : 
and  the  only  reason  he  could  give  for  their  not 
having  attacked  our  caique  was,  that  he  believed 
they  did  not  see  it ;  for  it  had  not  cleared  the 
passage  of  the  rocks  before  they  left  the  har- 
bour. We  remained  in  the  Bay  of  Jura  during 
the  rest  of  this  day,  and  the  following  night. 
The    few    inhabitants    of    this    desolate    spot, 


160  BAY   OF   JURA. 

chap,  believing  us  to  be  pirates,  were  afraid  to 
v^v^/  approach ;  so  that  although  we  saw  a  few 
traces,  as  of  human  beings,  upon  the  island,  not 
one  of  them  appeared.  We  collected  a  few 
plants  and  minerals.  The  mountain  around  the 
bay,  and  especially  that  part  of  it  which  extends 
in  the  same  line  of  direction  as  Syra,  consists  of 
schistus,  containing  masses  of  quartz,  exhibiting 
a  beautiful  contrast  of  colour.  We  found  some 
quartz  crystallized,  and  also  crystals  of  carbo- 
^SSm  na'e{^  ^me'  Taurnefort  describes  Jura  as  the 
of  Jura.  most  barren  and  disagreeable  spot  in  the  Archi- 
pelago, and  says  its  plants  are  all  of  them 
common.  It  is  not  more  than  four  leagues  in 
circumference.  In  the  time  of  Strabo,  and 
indeed  in  all  ages,  its  poverty  and  wretched- 
ness were  proverbial ;  and,  while  a  less  con- 
temned spot  hardly  obtains  from  that  author 
any  other  notice  than  the  introduction  of  its 
name,  Gyarus,  from  the  supremacy  of  its 
indigence,  occupies  a  more  considerable  portion 
of  his  regard1.  A  mean  and  miserable  village, 
inhabited  solely  by  fishermen,  was  the  only  set- 
tlement at  that  time  upon  its  barren  rocks :  he 
mentions  their  embassy  to  Augustus,  who  was 
at  Corinth,  after  the  battle  of  Actium,  praying  a 


(1)  Vid.  Strab.  Geog.  lib.  x.  p.  708.     Oxon.  1807. 


\ 


BAY    OF   JDRA.  161 

diminution  of  their  annual  tribute,  which  tliey  chap. 
were  unable  to  pay ;  and  he  cites  the  antient  1"* 
poet  Aratus,  to  shew  how  long  the  poverty  of 
the  island  had  been  its  only  distinction*. 
Towrnefort  has  countenanced  the  story  related 
by  Pliny1  of  the  expulsion  of  its  inhabitants  by 
rats,  or  by  field-mice  ;  affirming  that  he  saw  some 
large  animals  of  this  kind,  which  were  probably 
of  the  antient  race*.  Instead  of  the  field-mice, 
we  saw  plenty  of  sheep  and  goats  belonging  to 
the  people  of  Syra ;  yet  the  existence  of  the 
animals  mentioned  by  Pliny  is  attested  by  many 
authors,  some  of  whom  pretend  that,  driven 
by  hunger,  the  mice  have  been  constrained  to 
gnaw  the  iron  ore  taken  from  the  mines' ;    a  most 


(9)  "  Puapertatcm  eorum  otlum  A  ratut  tic  inouit  in  minutii : 
Te  Laloum  tenet,  palo,  fern*  nunc  Pholegandnu, 
Ant  G  j»ron  nlhilo  meUorcm  forU  mbUtl." 

Strabon.  Geog.  tin.*,  p.100.     Oxotl.  1807. 

(3)  Vid.  Ptin.  Hilt.  Nat.  lib.  »lii.  c.  SO.  De  Cimiat.tl  Qent.  i 
mmmtit  axiinalUnit  deletm.  "  Bx  Oy*ro  Cycladum  insula  incolu  u 
m/flm  fngaloi,"  Ac. 

(4)  "  Hon*  n'j  tIdm  que  de  groa  mnlot*,  peut-ttre  de  In  race  de 
e**x  qui  obligcrtut  lea  habJUun  de  1'uUe  de  J'sboD doner,  eomme  Pline 
ie  rapport*."      Taurnef.  Vbg.  du  LeB.  torn,  11.  p.  30.     Lyon,  1717. 

(6)    See  the    Authors  M  cited    by    Towrnefort:     Antigon,    Caritt, 
Kami.  Uirab.  cap.   13.      Aritl.  lib.  de  Mirtib.   Ante.     JEtvxn  Ilhl 
A  aim.  lib.  V.  cap-  14.      Steph.  Byzoni.  See. 
VOL.  VI.  M 


16£ 


VOYAGE   TO   ZIA. 


chap,  improbable  story :  but  we  perhaps  learn  from  it 
,II#  the  reason  why  exiles  were  sent  hither  by  the 
Romani ;  the  labour  of  mining  having  been 
antiently,  as  it  is  now  in  many  countries,  a 
punishment  allotted  to  state  criminals:  bow- 
ever,  we  perceived  no  traces  either  of  the  mine- 
ral thus  alluded  to,  or  of  the  works  carried  on 
for  its  excavation. 

voyage  to      We  left  Jura  for  Zia,  October  the  twenty-fifth 
the  weather  being  calm.     As  we  drew  near  to 
Zia,  there  sprung  a  fresh  breeze,  and  our  sailors 
endeavoured  to  steer  the  caique  into  what  they 
believed  to  be  the  harbour  of  the  island,  at  its 
northern  extremity.    Fortunately,  we  had  a  small 
compass,  and   a  copy  of  Tournefort's  travels, 
the  accuracy  of    whose  maps  we   had   before 
proved ;    and  finding  that  neither  our  Captain 
nor  any  of  the  Casiot   crew  knew  any  thing 
of  the  coast,  the  author  undertook  to  pilot  the 
vessel  into  a  harbour  which  he  had  never  seen,  and 
actually  by  the  aid  of  charts  which  have  neither 
soundings  nor  bearings1.     As  soon  as  we  had 
doubled  the  northern  point  of  the  island,   the 
wind  freshened  apace;    but   it  came   entirely 
aft,  with  a  heavy  sea,  which  drove  us  before  it 


(1)  See  Tourntf.  Voy.  do  Lev.  torn.  11.  pp.  14, 21.    Zyen,  1717. 


VOYAGE   TO   ZIA.  1()3 

with  great  rapidity  down  the  channel  between  chap. 
Zia  and  the  island  laying  off  Cape  Sunium,  hi. 
antiently  called  Helena,  and  now  Macronisu 
Presently,  the  mouth  of  the  port  which  is 
on  the  western  side  of  Zia,  opposite  to  Helena, 
began  to  appear:  bat  we  stood  on,  so  as  to 
clear  any  rocks  which  might  be  on  its  northern 
side,  and  to  have  a  full  view  of  the  entrance, 
which  is  between  the  WeeU North-West,  and 
West;  and  then  we  luffed  and  stood  towards 
it  In  this  manner  we  entered  the  port, 
about  noon,  in  perfect  safety ;  and  found  there 
a  Ragusan  ship  at  anchor.  It  is  a  very  large 
and  commodious  haven,  fit  for  ships  of  any 
burden,  and  even  for  the  largest  fleets.  It 
extends,  in  an  elliptical  form,  from  the  north 
towards  the  south :  the  best  anchorage  is  upon 
the  southern  side,  but  small  vessels  may  anchor 
anywhere.  The  great  article  of  commerce 
belonging  to  the  island,  now  exported  from  this 
harbour,  consists  of  the  acorns  of  the  Velani 
Oak*,   Quercus  JEgitops,  used  for  dyeing.     A 


(8)  Tamr^fort  describes  this  beautiful  species  of  oak  as  growing  to 
the  sue  of  our  common  oak,  the  Quercus  Robur.  We  never  observed 
the  Qswrevs  JBgilop*  but  as  a  shrub ;  however,  the  accuracy  of  sueh  a 
writer  as  Tourmefort  is  by  no  means  to  be  disputed,  upon  a  foiat  that 
he  was  so  peculiarly  qualified  to  determine.  The  Velani  acorns,  which 
we  brought  to  the  Botanic  Garden  at  Cambridge,  although  collected 
vfcft)  the  utmost  care,  did  not  prodaea  a  single  plant.  . 

n  9, 


164  ISLAND   OF    ZIA. 

chap,  kind  of  cloak  made  of  goat's  hair,  which  is  sold 
III#  in  the  port,  is  said  by  Tournefort  to  be  manufac- 
tured in  Zia :  but  in  this  he  was  mistaken  ;  for 
these  cloaks  are  brought  to  Zia  from  the  Isle  of 
Joura,  pronounced  Zoura,  near  Salonica.  There 
has  been  a  great  defalcation  in  the  sale  of  the 
Velani  acorns:  formerly  they  sold  for  forty 
pounds  sterling  the  quintal;  and  when  we  ar- 
rived, the  dealers  in  this  article  were  glad  to 
get  fifteen  pounds  sterling  for  the  same  quan- 
tity. The  produce  of  the  island  in  these  acorns 
alone  amounts  annually  to  fifteen  thousand 
quintals. 

It  being  Sunday >  we  found  nobody  at  the 
quay,  and  therefore  set  off  for  the  town,  and 
the  only  one  upon  the  island  ;  it  is  at  the  dis- 
tance of  three  miles  from  the  harbour :  we 
passed  through  a  valley  towards  it,  and  after- 
wards ascended  to  the  hill  on  which  it  stands. 
Carthea.  It  is  built  upon  the  site  of  the  antient  Carthaa, 
after  the  manner  of  the  town  of  Syra,  but  in  the 
form  of  a  theatre,  and  upon  a  much  higher 
mountain ;  the  houses  being  erected  in  terraces 
one  above  another,  so  that  the  roofs  of  a  range  of 
dwellings  below  serve  as  a  street  to  another 
range  above.  Those  streets,  as  at  Syra,  are  i 
beyond    description  filthy.       Such    a   singular 


\ 


ISLAND    OF    ZIA.  165 

manner  of  building  gives  to  the  place  a  very  chap. 
novel  and  extraordinary  appearance.  The  ^ 
citadel  is  upon  the  left,  to  a  person  entering  by 
the  narrow  pass  that  leads  to  the  town ;  and 
here,  says  Tournefort1,  sixty  Turks,  armed  only 
with  two  muskets,  defended  themselves  against 
the  whole   Venetian  army.     The  ravages  com-  Kavaj*e» 

J  ...  committed 

m  it  ted  by  the  Russians,  when  their  fleet  visited  by the 
this  island  during  the  reign  of  Catherine  the 
Second,  were  even  yet  the  subject  of  conver- 
sation. The  inhabitants  told  us  that  their 
houses  were  entirely  stripped  by  them.  The 
specious  promises  which  they  held  out  to  the 
people  of  Greece  are  now  seen  in  their  true  light 
by  that  people,  and  they  will  not  again  become 
the  dupes  of  any  Scythian  treaty.  Sonnini  says 
they  had  rendered  the  very  name  of  Liberty  so 
odious  at  Paros,  that  the  inhabitants  would  hear 
no  proposals  for  their  deliverance  from  the 
power  of  the  Turks ;  they  preferred  Turkish  des- 
potism to  Russian  emancipation.  "  Armed,"  says 
he*,  "  in  appearance  for  the  purpose  of  restoring 
to  the  Greeks  their  ancient  liberty,  they  {the 
Russians)  became  their  scourge."  Surely  the 
examples  of  national  perfidy  they  have  afforded 


(1)  Voy.  clu.  Leo.  turn.  II.  |>.  15. 

(2)  Travel*  in  Greece  and  Turkey,  j».  4o4.     Lond.\$0\. 


166  ISLAND    OF   ZIA. 

chap,  will  not  be  lost  upon  the  Cabinets  of  Europe.  It 
^IX^  was  not  the  property  of  the  natives  alone  which 
suffered  upon  this  occasion:  the  Hussions  removed 
or  destroyed  the  most  valuable  antiquities; 
which  could  not  have  been  more  effectually  sacri- 
ficed if  they  had  perished,  with  the  plunder  of 
the  Parthenon,  among  the  rocks*  of  Cythera1.  The 
Fine  Arts,  which  always  deprecate  their  coming 
as  they  would  another  invasion  of  Alaric,  will 
remember  with  regret  the  days  they  passed  in 
the  Archipelago:  and  when  truth  prevails  over 
the  interests  of  political  intrigue  and  the  preju- 
dices of  party  zeal,  it  will  be  seen  that  an  author 
has  not  erred  who  thus  described  them* :  RVSSI 
INTER  CHRISTIANOS  BARBAPQTATOI. 

The  male  population  of  Zia  amounts  to  three 
thousand  persons.  Each  house  pays  a  tax 
of  ten,  twelve,  or  fifteen  piastres,  annually. 
We  called  upon  the  English  Consul,  who  pro- 
mised to  send  mules  for  us  to  the  marine,  if  we 
would  come  th  e  next  day  and  dine  with  him ; 
to  which  we  consented.     He  informed  us  of  a 


(1)  The  memorable  fate  which    attended  the  spoils  of  the  finest 
temple  Greece  ever  saw,  in  Cerigo  Bay,  A.D.  1803. 

(2)  Vid.  Jokannit  Lomeuri,  Lib.  de  Bibliotueck,  cap.  si.  p.  358. 
UUrqject.  1680. 


RUINS  OF   IOULIS.  1 67 

circumstance  before  alluded   to,  but  of  which  chap. 
we  had  never  till  then  heard;    namely,   that     m« 
the  famous  Oxford  Marble,  generally  believed 
to  have  been  found  in  Paros,  was,  in  reality, 
discovered    among    the    Ruins    of    Ioulis    inRaUuor 

0  Ioulis. 

the  Isle  of  Zia,  at  four  hours  distance  from 
the  town ;  and  he  appealed  to  some  of  the  inha- 
bitants, well  acquainted  with  the  circumstance, 
for  the  truth  of  the  fact.  Those  ruins  are  little 
known:  Tournefort  has  briefly  noticed  them; 
bat  it  remains  for  some  future  traveller  to  make 
as  better  acquainted  with  the  remains  of  a  city 
not  only  renowned  as  the  birth-place  of  many 
celebrated  men,  of  Sunonidef,  of  Bacchylides, 
of  Erasistratus*,  and  of  A  lis  ton6,  but  particularly 


(4)  The  aattent  name  of  Zia,  KBOS,  called  KI A  by  Ptolemy,  was 
sometimes  abbreviated,  and  written  K02 ;  and,  owing  to  this  circum- 
stance, the  country  of  the  Poet  Simonidbs  has  sometimes  been  con- 
tended with  that  of  Hippooratm.  Stephana*  Byxantimm  uses  the  word 
K02  to  signify  K E02,  in  speaking  of  the  city  Iouli*.  'IovXig  w6\t£  Iv 
Ky.  (FkL  Stepk.  Byzant.  Geog.  X.  Bat  1004.)  Among  the  Remane,  it 
wmsJso  usual  to  abbreviate  dot  by  writing  Ct$.  Pliny  says  the  island 
had  been  called  Cem%  and  hi  his  time  Cnl 

(5)  The  famous  physician  who  discovered,  by  the  motion  of  the 
poise,  the  love  which  Antiochue  had  conceived  for  his  mother-in-law, 
8traUmke.    He  was  the  grandson  of  Aristotle. 

(6)  There  were  two  philosophers  of  this  name :  the  first  mentioned 
by  Strabo  as  a  native  of  Csos,  was  a  Peripatetic ;   the  second  was 


«» 


168 


RUINS   OP   IOULIS. 


chap,  entitled  to  a  careful  examination,  from  the  cir- 
III#  cumstance  of  the  discovery  there  made  of  this 
important  chronicle,  so  long  believed  to  owe 
its  origin  to  Paros.  A  place  which  has  been 
hitherto  little  regarded,  as  lying  remote  from 
common  observation,  where  the  soil  has  never 
been  turned,  nor  hardly  a  stone  removed  from 
the  situation  in  which  it  was  left  when  the  city 
was  abandoned  by  its  inhabitants,  may  well 
repay  the  labour  and  the  expense  necessary  for 
this  purpose.  The  season  was  far  advanced  at 
the  time  of  our  visit,  and  our  eagerness  to  get 
to  Athens  so  paramount  to  every  other  con- 
sideration, that  we  did  not  choose  to  delay  our 
voyage  thither,  by  making  a  visit  to  these  ruins ; 
which  we  have  ever  since  regretted.  Some 
notion  may  be  formed  of  their  magnitude,  and 
the  degree  of  consideration  in  which  they  were 
held  by  Tournefort,  from  the  manner  in  which 
he  introduces  his  account  of  them,  after  de- 
scribing the  remains  of  Carthcea1 :  and  with 
regard  to  the  valuable  chronicle  which  the  pre- 
sent inhabitants  of  Z'ia  maintain  to  have  been 


a  Stoic,  and  a  native  of  Chios:  tbey  have  been  confounded  together 
and  it  has  been  proposed  to  read  'Apurmjp  KtToc  for  Xlof. 
(1)  ''Pour  voir  qublque  chose  de  plus  supbrbb,  il  faut  prendre 
la  route  du  sud  sud-est,"  &c.     Voy.  du  Lev.  torn*  II.  p.  15. 


RUINS   OF    IOUMS.  169 

found  at  Ibuus,  there  is  something  like  an 
internal  evidence  of  the  fact  in  the  remarkable 
records  preserved  upon  the  marble  itself;  not 
only  with  regard  to  Simonides  the  poet,  who  was 
a  native  of  the  city,  but  also  of  his  descendant 
Simonides  son  of  Leoprepis,    who  explained  at 

Athens  the  principles  of  a  Mmjfiovucbv,  or 
scheme  for  artificial  memory,  of  which  he  was 
the  inventor.  The  antient  road  from  Ioulis  to 
Carth&a,  the  finest  thing  of  the  kind,  says 
TourneforP,  which  perhaps  can  be  found  in  all 
Greece,  yet  exists.  He  traced  it  for  three  miles 
in  extent,  flanking  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and 
sustained  by  a  strong  wall  of  which  the  coping 
consisted  of  immense  blocks  of  a  greyish  stone, 
having  the  property  of  splitting  like  the  slate 
used  in  the  Grecian  Isles  for  covering  houses 
and  chapels.  The  remains  of  Ioulis  are  now 
called  nOAI2  by  the  inhabitants  of  Zia.  They 
cover  the  top  of  a  promontory,  to  the  south- 
south-east  of  the  present  town  ;  the  base  of  which 
is  washed  by  the  sea,  although  it  were  a  league 
distant  from  it  in  the  time  of  Strabo.  The 
ruins  of  the  Acropolis  are  upon  the  point  of 
the  Cape ;  and  somewhat  farther  from  the 
shore  the  temple  is  conspicuous,   in  the  magni- 

(2)  Voy.  <iu  Lev.  torn.  II.  p.  10.     Lyon,  1717. 


170  RUINS   OF   IOULIS. 

chap,  ficence  of  its  remains :  those  of  the  city  extend 
ni-  a  from  the  hill  quite  into  a  valley  which  is 
watered  by  the  streams  of  a  fountain  whence 
Ioulis  received  its  name.  "  Never,"  observes 
the  author  now  cited1,  "have  I  seen  such 
masses  of  marble  employed  in  architecture,  as 
those  used  for  constructing  the  walls  of  this 
city ;  some  of  the  blocks  are  more  than  twelve 
feet  in  length."  The  British  Consul  told  us, 
that  the  head  of  the  fine  Torsa  represented  in 
Tournefort's  travels  was  carried  away  by  an 
Englishman.  Strabo  relates  that  there  were 
once  four  cities  upon  this  island,  Poeeessd,  Car- 
thceOf  Caressus  and  Ioulis ;  but  that  in  his  time 
the  inhabitants  of  Paecssa  had  settled  in  Car- 
thcedy  and  those  of  Caressus,  in  Ioulis.  He  has 
preserved  from  Menander  an  antient  and  memo- 
rable law  -  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  island*  : 
"Let    him    who    cannot    lead    an   honour- 

(1)  Tournrfort  found  the  remains  of  an  inscription  upon  a  broken 
marble  in  a  Greek  chapel  among  the  mint,  containing  the  word 
10YAIAA. 

(2)  *0  pi)  tiwafuvoc  Znv  «aX*c,  oh  Zy  kox*£.  Thas  rendered  by 
X  ylamdbr,  "  Qui  no*  potest  vwert  beni,  non  mali  moritur  ;"  perhaps 
alluding  to  an  antient  custom  in  Zla,  of  putting  to  death  aged  and 
infirm  persons.  The  Editor  of  the  Oxford  Slrabo  has  disputed  this 
interpretation ;  and  says  the  sense  should  be,  "  Qui  non  bene  vitam 
agere  potest,  non  male  vitatn  agat"  Vid.  annot  In  Strabo.  Qeog. 
lib.  x.  p.  710.  Oxon.  1807.  Not  12.— The  same  law  is  in  Milan , 
lib.  Hi.  cap.  37. 


RUINS   OP   IOULI9.  171 

ABLfi,      NOT      LEAD     A      DISHONOURABLE      LIFE/' 

Ptolemy  mentions  three  cities,  instead  of  four ; 
Caressus,  louUs,  and  Carthtea*.  From  the 
ruins  of  the  last  of  these  has  originated  the 
present  town  of  Zia,  the  only  one  in  the  whole 
island  :  those  ruins  may  be  traced  in  the  valley, 
the  whole  way  from  the  harbour  to  the  citadel. 
The  name  of  this  city — written  KAP0AIA  by 
Strabo  and  by  Ptolemy,  and  consequently  Car- 
thcea  by  Latin  writers — appears  upon  its  medals,  Medal*. 
KAP0A  which  is  probably  an  abbreviation.  We 
were  fortunate  in  procuring  several :  but  they 
were  all  of  bronze ;  nor  have  we  ever  seen  or 
heard  of  a  silver  medal  either  of  loulis  or  of  Car- 
thcea.  Those  of  the  latter  city  exhibited  in  front 
a  laurelled  bust ;  and  for  reverse,  the  fore  quarters 
either  of  a.  fawn  or  of  a  dog  ;  in  some  instances 
with  a  bee  below,  and  a  semicircle  of  diverging 
rays  above  the  head  of  the  animal.  Their 
legends  were  either  K,  simply,  or  KAP0HA ; 
but  in  no  instance  KAP0AIA.  The  bee  evi- 
dently refers  to  loulis,  of  which  city  this  was  the 
symbol ;    as  appears  by  some   bronze   medals 


(3)  Kia  yijtroQ    Jv  y    iroAcig  rpitft  Krfpqffffoc,   'IovXi?,  KapQaia. 
PtoUm.  Geog.  lib.  iii.  cap.  16.    Am$t.  1618. 

(4)  Tournrfort  speaks  of  an  inscription  of  forty-one  lines  in  the 
Chapel  of  St.  Peter ;  but  it  was  much  effaced,  and  almost  illegible. 


*72  ISLAND    OF    ZIA. 

chap,  in  the  French  Collection,  on  which  the  bee 
ni-  appears,  with  the  legend  IOYAL  Possibly, 
therefore,  Iaulis  was  leagued  with  Carthma>  or 
had  become  tributary  to  it,  when  some  of  the 
medals  were  struck  which  we  brought  from  the 
island. 

Hospitality  An  amusing  adventure  befel  us  the  next  day, 
Modem  in  our  search  for  medals.  We  have  before  had 
occasion  to  allude  to  the  hospitality  of  the 
Greeks,  to  their  love  of  festivity,  and  to  the  sort 
of  sensation  excited  by  the  arrival  of  strangers 
among  them ;  but  perhaps  the  following  anec- 
dote may  exhibit  their  national  characteristics 
in  a  more  striking  manner  than  has  been  hither- 
to done.  The  Consul  having  sent  his  mules  to 
the  harbour,  we  went  to  visit  him,  as  we  had 
promised  to  do,  and  despatched  messengers 
about  the  town  in  search  of  medals  and  gems. 
Towards  the  eveniug,  as  we  were  preparing  to 
take  leave  of  our  host,  a  little  girl,  arrived  ;  who 
said,  if  we  would  follow  her  she  would  conduct 
us  to  a  house  where  several  antiquities  would  be 
offered  to  us  for  sale.  Being  conducted  to- 
wards the  spot,  we  were  surprised  to  meet  a 
young  lady,  very  splendidly  dressed,  who 
offered  to  us  some  medals,  and  said,  if  we  would 
accompany  her,   she  would   take  us  to  a  house 


ISLAND    OF    ZIA.  173 

where  the  owner  kept  a  collection  of  such  rari-  chap. 
ties.  Presently  we  met  a  second  female,  nearly  •  m* 
of  the  same  age,  and  similarly  habited  ;  who 
addressed  the  first,  laughing,  and  then  literally 
seized  one  of  us  by  the  arm,  bidding  her  com- 
panion secure  the  other:  and  in  this  manner 
we  were  hurried  into  a  crowded  assembly, 
where  many  of  the  inhabitants  had  been  col- 
lected for  a  regular  ball.  The  dancing  instantly 
began ;  and  being  welcomed  with  loud  cheers 
into  the  midst  of  the  party,  there  was  no  alter- 
native but  to  give  up  all  thoughts  for  the  rest, 
of  the  evening,  of  returning  to  our  caique,  and 
contribute  to  the  hilarity  of  those  by  whom  we 
had  been  thus  hospitably  enveigled.  Our  con- 
ductors proved  to  be  the  two  daughters  of  the 

tl8io7rpo^€vo99  who  thus  honourably  entertained, 
after  the  manner  of  his  forefathers,  two  private 
strangers,  whom  he  was  never  likely  to  see 
again,  and  from  whom  he  could  reap  no  possible 
advantage.  Every  species  of  Greek  dance  was  £°cient 
exhibited   for   the   amusement    of    his   guests ; 

from  the  bounding  Mouo\opo9  or  hornpipe,  and 
the  At\opo9  or  rigadoon1,  to  the  more  stately 
measures    of    the    orbicular    brawl2,    and    the 


(1)  See  De  Gvy'i  Letters  on  Greece,  vol.  I.  p.  140.     Land.  1781. 

(2)  See  p.  155  of  this  volume. 


iy4  ISLAND  OF  ZIA. 

"  thrcadle-my-necdk?'  of  the  modern  Romeka1. 
The  whole  night  passed  in  one  uninterrupted 
scene  of  the  most  joyous  vivacity.  To  us  it 
seemed  to  exhibit  a  moving  picture  of  other 
times ;  for  in  die  dances  we  actually  beheld  the 
choirs  of  the  Antient  Greeks,  as  originally  they 
were  led  around  the  altars  of  Deloe,  or  amidst 
the  rocks  of  Delphi,  or  by  the  waters  of  Helicon, 
or  along  the  banks  of  the  Eurotas*.  When 
morning  dawned,  we  retired ;  bat  we  left  them 
still  dancing;  and  we  heard  their  reiterated 
songs  as  we  descended  through  the  valley 
towards  the  shore. 

Produce  The  fertility  of  Zia  ha3  been  mentioned  by 
°rZuu  antient  and  by  modern  authors,  and  it  was 
particularly  noticed  by  us  upon  the  spot3.  It 
appeared  to  be  the  best  cultivated  of  any  of  the 
Grecian  Isles.  In  our  way  to  and  from  the 
town,  we  found  among  the  rocks  some  very 
rare  plants }  particularly  the  Verbascum  Grcecum 


(1)  See  p.  148.  Note  (l),of  this  Yolnne. 

(2)  "  Qaalfo  in  Earotae  ripis,  ant  per  juga  Cynthi 

Exercet  Diana  chores." 

Vxrg.  JEneid.  lib.  i.  Stdan.  1626. 

(3)        "  Et  cultor,  nemorum  qui  pinguia  One 

Ter  centum  nirei  tondant  dameta  juvenci." 

Vxrg.  Qeorgic.  lib.  i.  vtr.  14.  Sedan,  1625 


i 


ISLAND   OF   XIA.  175 

of  Towmefort,  which   here  flourishes  in  great  chap. 
perfection.     The  cotton-plants  were  in  flower:      n^ 
the  island   produces    also   abundance  of  totae, 
barley,  silk,  Jig*,  and  cattle.    The  old  road  from 
this  harbour  to  the  city  of  Carthma  was  cut  out 
of  the  solid  rock,  and  the  traces  of  it  are  still 
visible.     There  was  a  tradition  in  the  time  of 
Pliny,  that  Zia,  or,  as  he  writes  it,  Cea\  had 
been  separated  from  JEttbcea  by  the  sea,  and  that 
a  considerable  part  of  it  towards  the  north  had 
been  swallowed  up  by  the  waves5.    This  event 
might  possibly  occur  at  the   bursting   of  the 
Tkracian  Bosphorus ;  and  to  this,  perhaps,  the 
antient  Greek  name  of  the  island,   Hydrussa6, 
may  be  attributed,  rather  than  to  the  abundance 
or  excellence  of  its  water ;  as  the  same  name 
was  common  to  other  isles;    for   example  to 
Tenos,  which  may,  from  its  relative  situation  to 
JSubceOj  have  had  a  similar  origin.     The  moun- 
tains of  Zia  are  all  of  limestone ;  there  are  no 
vestiges  of  any  volcanic  operation.     The  mineral 


(4)  "  Qom  noatn  quidam  £mre  Ccam."  Pli*.  Hi*.  Nat.  lib.  if. 
c  12.  torn.  I.  p.  22L    L.  Bat.  1636. 

(5)  "  Arulsa  EabcBffi,  qaingentii  longa  stadiit,  fuit  quondam ;  m'ox 
qoatoor  fere  partibai ,  qnss  ad  Bceotiam  Tergebaot,  eodem  mari  dero- 
ratis."    Ibid. 

(6)  Vid.  Plin.  Hiat.  Nat.  ubi  supra. 


176  DEPARTURE    FROM    ZIA. 

chap,  mentioned  by  Taurneforf,  under  the  appellation 
nl-  of  "Crate  de  JBriangon,"  a.  variety  of  talc,  i9  found 
Minerals,  in  great  abundance  near  the  Monastery  of  St 
Marine,  or  Marinas,  distant  about  three  hours 
journey  from  the. town  of  Zia:  the  inhabitants 
make  no  use  of  it.  Lead  ore  is  also  found  near 
the  same  place.  From  hence  there  are  two 
ways  of  going  to  Athens:  the  first  is  by  landing 
at  a  port  near  Sunium,  which  is  called  Da&callio ; 
two  hours  from  which  place  is  a  village  called, 
from  the  abundance  of  its  Karob-trees,  Keratta, 
whence  the  distance  is  only  about  eight  or  ten 
hours,  by  land,  the  whole  way  to  Athens:  the 
other  way  is  by  sea,  up  the  Gulph  of  Engia  to  the 
PfRiEEUs.  Our  Consul  had.  recommended  the 
former  way  as  the  easiest,  the  safest,  and  the 
best ;  but  we  adopted  the  latter,  that  we  might 
have  the  satisfaction  of  making  our  first  approach 
to  Athens,  from  one  of  its  antient  harbours,  and 
of  seeing  as  much  as  possible  of  the  magnificent 
scenery  which  the  gulph  exhibits. 

Departure      We  hired  a  pilot  from  Zia,  for  the  Saronic 

for  Athens. 

Gviph;   and  left  the  harbour,  with  a  fair  wind, 
October  the  twenty -seventh,  soon  after  sun-rise. 


(1)  Voy.  da  l*v.  torn.  II.  p.  21.  Lyon,  1717. 


VOYAGE   TO    ATHENS.  177 

We  passed  Macronisi,  once  called  Helena,   chap. 

in. 
because  Helen  is  said  to  have  landed  here  after 

her  expulsion  from  Troy1*,  and  we  had  such  a 
glorious  prospect  of  this  island,  and  of  the 
temple  of  Minerva  Sunias  standing  upon  the  Cape, 
together  with  other  more  distant  objects,  that  we 
could  recollect  nothing  like  it :  such  a  contrast 
of  colours ;  such  an  association  of  the  wonders 
of  Nature  and  of  Art ;  such  perfection  of  grand 
and  beautiful  perspective,  as  no  expression  of 
perceptible  properties  can  convey  to  the  minds 
of  those  who  have  not  beheld  the  objects  them- 
selves. Being  well  aware  of  the  transitory 
nature  of  impressions  made  upon  the  memory 
by  sights  of  this  kind,  the  author  wrote  a  de- 
scription of  this  scene  while  it  was  actually 
before  his  eyes :  but  how  poor  is  the  effect  pro- 
duced by  detailing  the  parts  of  a  view  in  a 
narrative,  which  ought  to  strike  as  a  whole 
upon  the  sense !  He  may  tell,  indeed,  of  the 
dark  blue  sea  streaked  with  hues  of  deepest 
purple  —  of  embrowning  shadows  —  of  lights 
effulgent  as  the  sun — of  marble  pillars  beaming 
a  radiant  brightness  upon  lofty  precipices  whose 
sides  are  diversified  by  refreshing  verdure  and 


(-2)  See  Pausaniat,  lib.  i.  c.  35. 
VOL.    VI.  N 


178  VOYAGE    TO    ATHENS. 

chap,  by  hoary  mosses,  and  by  gloomy  and  naked 
rocks ;  or  by  brighter  surfaces  reflecting  the 
most  vivid  and  varied  tints,  orange,  red,  and 
grey  :  to  these  he  may  add  an  account  of  distant 
summits,  more  intensely  azured  than  the  clear 
and  cloudless  sky— of  islands  dimly  seen 
through  silvery  mists  upon  the  wide  expanse  of 
water  shining,  towards  the  horizon,  as  it  were 
"  a  sea  of  glass  :" — and  when  he  has  exhausted 
his  vocabulary,  of  every  colour  and  shape 
exhibited  by  the  face  of  Nature  or  by  the  works 
of  Art,  although  he  have  not  deviated  from  the 
truth  in  any  part  of  his  description,  how  little 
and  how  ineffectual  has  been  the  result  of  his 
undertaking ! 

As  we  passed  the  southern  point  of  Macronisi, 
and  drew  nearer  to  the  promontory,  the  temple 
upon  the  Cape  appeared  to  the  greatest  advan- 
tage in  which  it  is  possible  now  to  view  it1;  for 
it  seemed  to  be  entire,  its  deficiencies  being 
concealed  by  the  parts  which  yet  remain  un- 
injured.    When  we  had  doubled  the  southern 


(1)  There  is  a  very  accurate  representation  of  Cape  Sunium  and  the 
Temple,  engraved  from  a  Drawing  by  Sir  William  Qell,  in  the  edition 
of  Falconer'%  Shipwreck  published  by  the  Rev.  James  Stanier  Clarke, 
LL.D.  brother  of  the  author  of  these  Travels. 


PORT  OF  SUNIUH.  179 

point  of  the  Cape,  we  anchored  in  the  antient  chap. 
port  of  Sunium,  an  insignificant  bay,  lying  within  v^v^/ 
the  gulph,  sheltered  by  the  promontory.  HereStmium- 
we  landed.  The  owners  of  a  small  boat  which 
we  observed  coasting,  believing  us  to  be  pirates, 
ran  their  vessel  aground,  and  abandoned  her  as 
soon  as  they  perceived  our  caique  coming  round 
the  Cape,  making  their  escape  up  the  rocks  near 
to  the  shore.  We  endeavoured,  by  signs,  to 
convince  them  of  our  peaceable  intentions ;  but 
they  betook  themselves  to  some  woods,  and 
appeared  no  more  while  we  remained  in  the  bay. 
Proceeding  towards  the  temple,  we  found  the 
rocks  covered  with  evergreens  and  bushy 
shrubs ;  among  which  we  noticed  the  Pistacia 
Lentiscus,  the  myrtle,  the  Velania  oak,  and  some 
dwarf  cedars.  We  also  found  some  rolled 
pieces  of  green  trap  or  basalt,  containing  a 
dendritic  crystallization  ;  but  had  not  leisure  for 
a  due  examination  of  the  strata  on  which  this 
temple  stands ;  our  sailors,  who  had  themselves 
been  mistaken  for  pirates,  being  very  impatient 
to  get  under  weigh,  through  fear  that  some  of 
the  real  robbers  would  arrive,  who  make  the 
bay  of  Sunium  their  lurking-place,  where  they 
lie-in-wait  for  vessels  going  in  or  out  of  the 
gulph.  It  was  with  difficulty  we  could  pacify 
the   master  of  the   caique  during  the  time  we 

n  2 


Sunias. 


1M)  PORT  OF   8UN1UM. 

chap,  spent  in  the  examination  of  the  temple.  This 
s^v^  beautiful  building  was  once  adorned  with  the 
Mb*™  most  exquisite  sculpture  :  its  materials  were  of 
the  whitest  marble ;  it  was  of  the  Doric  order ; 
and  the  remains  of  it  are  sufficient  to  prove  that, 
when  it  was  entire,  it  exhibited  one  of  the  most 
highly-finished  specimens  of  Attic  architecture 
in  all  Greece.  Chandler1  believed  it  to  have 
been  "  erected  in  the  same  happy  period  with 
the  great  Temple  of  Minerva,  called  the 
Parthenon,  in  the  Acropolis  at  Athens,  or  in  the 
time  of  Pericles,  it  having  like  proportions, 
though  far  inferior  in  magnitude."  Besides  the 
temple,  there  was  also  a  PropyUum  of  the  Doric 
order  at  Sunium.  We  found  fifteen  columns  yet 
standing*.     The  surfaces  in  some  of  those  facing 

(1)  Travels  in  Greece,  p.  8.     Ox/.  1776. 

(2)  The  Sunian  Temple  has  been  recently  visited  by  the  Rev.  O.  C. 
Benouardy  Chaplain  to  the  British  Factory  at  Smyrna,  This  gentleman 
has  communicated  the  following  notices  concerning  it,  in  a  letter  to 
the  author ; 

"  There  are  now  standing,  on  the  south-east  side,      9  columns. 
On  the  north  side      .......      3 

On  the  north-west  side  ------      3 

Total    -    -    16 

*'  Length  of  the  Temple  from  N.w.  to  s.  B.       -    72  feet 
Breadth  ------------45 

Height  of  columns  from  base  to  cornice  -  -  23 
Distance  of  columns  from  centre  to  centre  -  8 
Circumference,  at  two  feet  from  base        -    -      9  .  10$  inches." 

The 


PORT   OF   SUNIUM. 


181 


tbe  sea  were  much  decomposed.     Several  per-    c "*p* 
sons  had  written  their  names  upon  the  marble ;  n^v-*-' 
and  even  those  which  had  been  inscribed  with 
pencils  remained,  with  their  dates,  as  fresh  as 
when  they   were   first  written.      We  read  the 
names  of  the  lamented  Tweddell,  and  of  the 
Hon.   Captain   William  Paget.     The  last  of 
these,  a  gallant  naval   officer,  now   buried   at 
Gibraltar,  will  not  want  a  memorial  in  Greece. 
His  name   will   be  long  remembered,  for   the  Anecdote 
coolness,    the    intrepidity,    and    the    humanity  officer. 
which  he   displayed    when   commander  of  the 
JRomney,  a  fifty-gun  ship,  during  his  memorable 
action  with  a  French  frigate,  La  Sibylle,  in  the 
harbour  of  Myconi.     The  French  officer  was  an 
old  acquaintance,  and  one  with  whom  he  had 


Tbe  tame  gentleman  has  transmitted  to  the  author  the  following 
beautiful  Inscription,  recently  discovered  in  Samos.  It  relates  to  a 
woman  of  the  name  of  Tyrinn  a,  who  died  at  the  age  of  twenty-seven. 

*fl  y«v«y  ?6Zy  rt  Kai  Iv  fiov<jy<n  Tvpivva 

m¥Xo\oQ,  y  xaaric  dxpa  fipova*  apirijQ, 
'Evvtdtag  rptaaas  iritov  Ziiaaaa,  tokivoiv 

Avert]  vote  tkiirov  ddxpva  Kai  <rrova\aQ. 
Hclq  yap,  ifiov  fQipivrjc,  X>?P°C  $6poz  ovti  yap  avrft 

AiiTOfiat,  ovt'  i\iirov  pXaarbv  auroixofiivri. 
*Ayti  £i  xarpyov  Kai  v\pop6$oio  pt\a9pov, 

AttTTJ  Tovpbv  1\ik  <?ui pa  Xaxovtra  irtrpij. 
£i  fr  i)v  tbotf&itiv  ooioQ  \6yoQt  ovxor  av  o\koq 

Ov  'iiOQ9  ipov  fOtfiivtic,  rated'  tvixvpai  ri»xatC» 


182  PORT   OF   SUNIUM. 

chap,  lived  in  habits  of  friendship.  Captain  Paget 
sent  a  boat  to  him,  saying  he  was  sorry  they 
had  met  under  such  circumstances,  but  that  he 
must  desire  him  to  surrender.  He  received  for 
answer,  that  the  Captain  of  La  Sibylle  well  knew 
Captain  Pagefs  force1,  and  that  he  would  defend 
himself  to  the  last  extremity.  The  Frenchman 
fired  first,  aided  by  four  armed  vessels,  which 
were  stationed  so  as  to  rake  the  Romney. 
Captain  Paget  having  observed,  from  the  situa- 
tion of  his  ship,  that  some  mischief  would  ensue 
to  the  inhabitants  of  Myconi,  patiently  sustained 
this  powerful  attack  without  returning  a  single 
shot,  until,  by  getting  a  spring  upon  his  cable, 
he  had  brought  the  Romney  into  a  situation 
where  the  cannon  might  play  without  doing  any 
injury  to  the  town  ;  then  he  gave  his  broadside, 
with  three  cheers  from  his  crew.  The  Frenchman 
returned  the  salute ;  and  a  warm  contest  ensued, 
in  which  the  Romney  was  ultimately  victorious. 
The  history  of  this  action  is  often  related  in  the 
Archipelago,  although  it  have  not  been  recorded 
in  England :  and  as  the  name  of  the  hero  appears 
inscribed  with  his  own  hands  upon  the  conspi- 
cuous pillars  of  Sunium,  the  STHAAI  AIA^ANEIS, 
visible    from    afar,    may     stand    as    lasting   a 

(1)  The  Romney  was  short  of  her  complement,  by  seventy-five  men. 


\ 


PORT   OP    SUNCUM. 


183 


monument  of  his  fame,  as  the  glorious  sepul-   C^IAIP- 
chre  which  chance  assigned  to  the  memory  of 
Tweddell,  when  it  caused  him  to  be  buried  in 
die  Temple  of  Theseus. 

Chandler  says  that  the  Temple  of  Minerva 
Sumas  was  within  the  wall  of  the  old  town2. 
We  saw   no    remains  of    this  town;    but   we 
were  induced  to  believe,  from  the  appearance 
of  some  ruins  upon   an   opposite   hill,  on   the 
northern    side  of    the    port,    that    these    were 
the   remains   of  Sunium.      The    impatience   of 
our    mariners     prevented    our     visiting    those 
ruins,  although   they   have   been   hitherto  un- 
d escribed.     They  seemed  to  be  too  near  to  have 
belonged   to  Laurium.      Among    the    remains 
of  the  temple  we  found  the  point  of  an  antient 
lance,  and  many  fragments  of  terra-cotta  vessels, 
those  indestructible  and  infallible  testimonies  of 
places  resorted  to  by  the  Antient  Greeks.     As 
soon    as  we  had  descended  to  the  caique,  our 
Captain   weighed  anchor,  and  set  sail  for  the 
Piraeus,  now  called  Porto  Lione,  distant  forty- 
two    miles   from    the   Cape ;    but   we   had   no 
sooner  entered  the  channel,  between  the  Island 


(2)  Tra?.  in  Greece,  p.  7.     Oaf.  177G.    See  also   Wheler's  Journey 
into  Greece,  Book  vi.  p.  448.     LomL  1G82. 


184  ISLAND   OF   PATROCLEIA. 

chap.   Patrocleia  and  the  coast  of  Attica,  than  we 
in. 

,« were  becalmed.  The  island  is  now  called 
by  at  least  half  a  dozen  different  modern  names ; 
it  is  therefore  best  to  adhere  as  much  as  possible 
to  original  appellations,  for  these  will  be  found 
frequently  preserved  by  the  inhabitants  of  the 
country.  All  the  barbarous  nick-names  given  to 
places  and  islands  in  Greece,  and  introduced 
into  modern  geography,  have  been  principally 
owing  to  the  Italians.  Thus  Athens  received 
the  strange  appellation  of  Settines,  although 
it  never  lost  its  old  name  among  its  resident 
citizens,  nor  ever  fell  into  the  state  of  desolation 
and  desertion  which  has  been  falsely  ascribed 
to  it.  The  little  Island  of  Patrocleia  still  pre- 
served its  name  in  Wheler^s  time1 ;  but  it  has 
been  called  Gaitharonesi  {Asses  Isle),  the  Island 
of  Ebony,  Guidronisa,  Garderonis,  &c. ;  and 
owing  to  all  these  names,  it  has  been  sometimes 
multiplied,  and  laid  down  in  charts  as  a  cluster 
of  small  isles,  rather  than  as  one  island.  Some 
geographers  have  believed  this  island  to  be  the 
Belbina  of  Strabo*,  from  the  manner  in  which  he 


(1)  Wheler  writes  it  Patroclba  ;  but  Spon,  Patroclbia.  See 
Wheler's  Journ.  into  Greece,  Book  vi.  p.  449.  Land*  1082.  Spon, 
Voyage  de  Grece,  torn.  II.  p.  155.    h  la  Haye,  1724. 

(2)  See  Delates  "  Graxue  Antique  Tabula  Nova"  a*  published  at 
Paris,  1745. 


ISLAND    OF   PATROCLEIA.  185 

has  connected  the  BAf3iva  vrjaoc  with  the  rampart    chap. 

hi 
constructed  by  Patrocluf ;  but  in  a  former  part 

of  bis  work  he  is  more  explicit  as  to  the  situa- 
tion of  Belbina4,  describing  its  situation  as  far- 
ther from  the  coast,  and  which  some  have 
believed  to  be  the  island  now  called  St.  George 
<TArbori9as  it  is  named  in  a  chart  by  D'Anvilltf. 

The  pilot  whom  we  had  brought  from  Zia 
informed  us  "that  ebony  stills  grows  upon 
Patrocleia;  and  we  availed  ourselves  of  the 
delay  caused  by  our  being  becalmed,  to  land  in 
search  of  it.  We  collected  many  rare  plants 
upon  this  otherwise  barren  spot ;  but  could  not 
find  a  single  specimen  of  the  Ebenus,  either 
Cretica  or  pinnata.  Our  sailors  also  landed ; 
and  they  caught  abundance  of  echini,  upon  which 


(3)  UpStiiTCu  ik  Kai  Toiiruv  r&v  tSttuv  BiXfiiva  pi)<toc,  oh  rroXi 
ix*$trf  Kai  6  UarpotXov  \dpal.  Strdbon.  Geog.  lib.  ix.  p.  578. 
Oxtm.  1807. 

(4)  Rif<ri2ta  ik  irtpUuTcu  iroXXd  ftkv  xpoc  ry  *y*rtipy  BiXfiiva  8k 
Tfbc,  re  TtXayoc  avartivovaa.    Ibid.  lib.  viii.  p.  544.     Oxon,  1807. 

(5)  See  D'Anville's  Chart  of  the  Archipelago,  published  at  Paris  in 
1756.  The  Editor  of  the  Oxford  Edition  of  Strabo  believed  Lavousa 
to  be  the  modern  name  of  Belbina.  "  Belbina  nunc  Lavousa  dicitnr." 
(VuL  Not. in  Strabon.  Geog. p.  544.  Oxon.  1807.)  This  is  the  island 
mentioned  by  Spon,  to  whose  work  the  Reader  may  be  referred  for  the 
best,  indeed  the  only  accurate,  account  of  the  islands  in  the  Saronie 
Gulph*  "  Entre  JEgina  et  Coulouri,  il  y  a  une  petite  isle  appellee 
Laonsa."  Voyage  ds  Qriee,fait  aux  Annies  1675  et  1676,  par  Jacob 
Spon,  torn.  II.  p.  156.    a  la  Haye,  1 724. 


186  ISLAND   OF   CALAUREA. 

chap,  they  fed  heartily,  both  on  this  and  the  following 
w^n-^  day.  The  name  of  this  prickly  shell-fish,  if 
written  abbreviated  as  they  pronounced  it,  would 
be  *x*v>  instead  of  ixivoe.  The  thermometer, 
this  day  at  noon,  indicated  80°  of  Fahrenheit. 
We  were  unable  to  leave  our  station  off 
Patrocleia  before  the  next  day  ;  and  being  afraid 
to  venture  upon  the  coast  of  Attica,  we  continued 
upon  the  island,  collecting  plants,  until  the 
evening,  and  admiring  the  glorious  prospect 
islands  in  exhibited  on  all  sides.  In  this  gulf,  between 
Guiph.  !  the  two  promontories  of  Sunium  and  Scyll&um, 
there  are  not  less  than  twenty  islands1;  but  only 
three  of  them  are  inhabited,  Calaurea,  ^Egina, 
and  Salamis.  At  present,  we  shall  only  speak 
Calaurea.  of  the  first  of  these,  Calaurea,  because  the 
others  will  occur  in  the  order  of  our  route.  Its 
situation,  with  regard  to  the  Scylkean promontory, 
is  the  same  as  Patrocleia  with  respect  to  the 
Sunian.  Calaurea,  rarely  visited,  and  almost 
unknown,  is  the  island  to  which  Demosthenes  fled, 
when  he  sought  to  avoid  the  fury  of  Antipater  ; 
and  where  he  swallowed  poison,  in  the  Temple 
of  Neptune :  and  although  it  have  been  disputed, 
whether  the  island,  sometimes  called  Poros  from 


(1)  Sec  Sport,  torn.  II.  p.  155.    a  la  Haye,  1724. 


ISLAND   OF    CALAUREA. 


187 


a  small  adjoining  peninsula,  be  the  same  with  the  C,1IIAI1>' 
antient  Calaurea,  an  inscription  discovered  there  v^v-%^ 
by  Chandler*  has  put  an  end  to  all  doubt  upon  the 
subject.  He  found,  among  the  ruins  of  the  city 
and  of  the  temple,  an  inscription,  upon  a  pedestal, 
containing  an  acknowledgment  of  the  services 
of  King  JEumenes  "to  the  God,  and  to  the 
Calaureans,  and  to  the  other  Greeks." 
The  monument  of  Demosthenes  remained  within 
the  precincts  of  the  temple  in  the  second  century3. 
This  island  is  eighteen  miles  in  circumference  : 
it  is  now  inhabited  by  those  descendants  of  the 
ancient  Macedonians  who  are  called  Arnaovts,  or  Albanians. 
Albanians  ;  a  people  of  whom  we  shall  have 
frequent  occasion  to  speak  during  our  travels  in 
Greece,  and  who  have  been  much  calumniated, 
and  called  a  lawless  set  of  banditti,  and  as  being, 
with  regard  to  terra  firma,  what  the  Mainotes,  or 
Lacedemonians,  are  upon  the  waves4.     We  are 


(2)  CfcnuOtr's  Tra?elsin  Greece,  p.  212.     Oxf.  1776. 

(3)  Tov  x«pt/3oXov  H  ivrbc,  *ai  rb  AnfxooOivovg  pvripa  Itm.  Paw 
mm,  lib.  it  c.  33.  p.  189.    Lipt.  1696. 

(4)  u  H  demeuroit  dans  ces  cabanes  de  ces  sortes  de  gem  ane  les 
Tores  et  let  Grecs  connoissent  sous  le  nom  d'Arnautes,  et  nouT  autres 
soot  eel  ay  (TAlbanou.  lis  tont  en  par  tie  originaires  de  la  frontiere 
oecidentale  de  la  Mac6doine,  procbe  des  villes  d*Apolimena  et  de 
Sajoza;  et  en  partie  de  l'Epire,  ?ers  les  montagnes  de  la  Chymere. 


188  VOYAGE   TO    ATHENS. 

chap.  Dot  so  well  acquainted  with  the  latter :  but  have 
reason  to  believe  that  they  also  have  been 
injuriously  treated  in  the  accounts  published  of 
them  from  the  hear-say  statements  of  the  Turks 
and  Greeks.  With  regard  to  the  Albanians,  it 
was  often  our  good  fortune,  in  our  subsequent 
journeys,  to  prefer  a  night's  lodging  in  their 
cottages  to  the  less  cleanly  accommodation  of 
more  stately  dwellings  :  and  this  brief  allusion  to 
them  has  been  now  made,  rather  by  anticipation, 
that  the  Reader,  finding  hereafter  an  account  of 
them  very  different  from  the  notions  generally 
entertained  of  this  people,  may  not  be  induced 
to  attribute  to  first  impressions  a  description  of 
their  manners  which  has* been  the  result  of 
repeated  experience. 

The  next  morning  we  hoisted  sail  as  the  sun 
was  rising  in  great  splendour  above  the  moun- 
tains ;  but  the  wind  blew  in  gusts,  and  we  made 
little  progress.  At  one  time  it  came  with  such 
sudden    violence    down    the   side    of    a    high 


lis  sont  naturellement  braves,  d6terminez,  et  infatigables,  gran  a 
▼oleur?,  et  juBtement  dans  la  terre  ferme  de  Grecc  ce  que  les  Magnottes 
sont  stir  mer."  Voyage  d'Athenet,  $c.  par  le  Sr.  de  la  Guilleliere,  p.  38. 
a  Paris,  1675. 


s 


VOYAGE   TO    ATHENS.  189 

mountain  upon  the  Attic  coast,  that  it  had  nearly    chap. 

upset  the  caique.     These   transitory   gales  are  s^/^/ 

common  in  all  gulphs  surrounded  by  high  land, 

and  they  render  the  navigation    precarious  for 

small  vessels.     The  mountain  to  the  east  of  us 

was  called,   by  our  sailors,  Elimbd,   which    is  sumbs. 

a  modern  name   for   Olympus;   and  the  latter 

appellation,  perhaps,  formerly  denoted  any  very 

lofty   eminence,    as  it   was  common   to   many 

celebrated  mountains ;  to  one  in  Pieria,  the  seat 

of  the  Gods  ;  to  another  in  Bitkynia ;  to  a  third 

in  My sia  ;  a  fourth  in  Cyprus ;  a  fifth  in  Crete ;  a 

sixth  in  Elis ;  and  a  seventh  in  Arcadia.    In  the 

course   of   this    day   we   found   that  we   were 

accompanied  by  a  few  small  vessels,  sailing  up 

the  gulph,  with  red  sails.     At  four  o'clock  in 

the  afternoon,  being  off  Cape  Vari,  and  upon 

the  look-out  towards  the  n.n.e.  we  beheld,  with 

great  transports  of  joy,  the  first  sight  of  Athens  ;  First  sight 

its  lofty   edifices  catching  the  sun's  rays,   and 

rendering  the  buildings  in  the  Acropolis  visible 

to  us   at   the  distance    of  fifteen    miles.     The 

reflected  light  gave  them  a  white  appearance. 

The  Parthenon  appeared,  first,  above  a  long 

chain  of  hills  in  the  front:  presently,  we  saw 

the  top  of  Mount  Anchesmus,  to  the  left  of  the 

temple ;    the   whole   being   backed    by  a  lofty 

mountainous  ridge,    which  we   supposed  to  be 


190  VOYAGE    TO    ATHENS. 

chap.  Parnes.  .  All  the  fore  part  of  this  fine  scene  was 
wvw  occupied  by  Cape  Vari  and  the  Gulph1.  Fart, 
or  Vary,  is  mentioned  by  Chandler ;  but  in  such 
an  uncertain  manner,  that  it  is  impossible,  from 
his  description,  to  make  out  its  antient  name*. 
It  may  have  been  so  called  from  the  Island 
Phaura,  which  was  situate  before  one  of  the 
Capes  between  Phalerum  and  Sunium ;  and  there 
is  a  small  island  off  Cape  Varu  According  to 
Chandler,  Vari  is  only  four  hours'  journey  from 
Athens  by  land,  which  nearly  agrees  with  the 
distance  mentioned  to  us  by  our  pilot  The 
famous  Grotto  of  the  Nymphs  is  only  three  quar- 
ters of  an  hour  distant  from  Vari,  inland ;  it  is 
situate  in  a  part  of  Mount  Hymettus,  which 
here,  stretching  out  into  the  sea,  forms  the 
ZotterVto-  promontory  once  called  Zoster ;  and  this  may  be 

montory.  J  .  # 

the  same  now  called  Cape  Vari.  In  this  man- 
ner, then,  we  may  perhaps  settle  the  geography 
of  this  part  of  the  coast ;  the  promontory  being 
Zoster,  and  the  island  Phaura.  Zoster  was  so 
called  because  it  was  said  Latona  had  loosed 
her  zone  there,  in  her  way  to  Delos9  whither  she 


( 1 )  The  author  made  a  sketch  of  it  at  the  time,  which  has  been 
engraved  for  this  Work :  it  has  nothing  to  recommend  it,  bot  the 
fidelity  of  its  outline,  to  which  he  paid  all  possible  attention. — See  the 
Vignette  to  this  Chapter. 

(2)  Tray,  in  Greece,  pp.  147, 160.     Oaf.  1770. 


VOYAGE   TO    ATHENS.  191 

was  conducted  by  Minerva.     On  the  shore  was   chap. 

J  m  in. 

an  altar.     A  strange  notion  seems  to  have  been  >-^v^/ 

r         j    j  r^  i       Doubtful 

founded  upon  a  passage  in  Fausanias ;  namely,  story  of 
that  a  part  of  the  colossal  statue  of  Minerva  in  sutueT1* 
the  Acropolis  of  Athens  was  visible  from  the 
Sunian  Promontory.  After  the  repeated  proofs 
which  have  occurred  of  late  years,  confirming 
the  truth  of  antient  geographers  and  historians 
upon  many  points  before  doubted,  one  would 
not  hastily  conclude  that  a  thing  positively 
asserted  is  untrue,  because  it  has  not  remained 
to  undergo  the  test  of  our  experience.  The 
distance  is  forty -two  miles,  and  we  barely 
discerned  the  Parthenon  at  fifteen ;  but  the 
representation  of  this  statue,  as  it  appears 
upon  an  antient  medal  of  A  them3,  proves  that  it 
was  much  higher  than  the  Parthenon ;  and  there 
is  no  saying  what  the  effect  might  be,  of  light 
reflected  from  a  statue  of  polished  or  gilded 
brass  in  such  an  atmosphere,  even  at  the  extraor- 
dinary distance  from  which  the  point  of  the  spear 
and  crest  of  the  helmet  are  said  to  have  been 
visible.  This  gulph  has  never  been  accurately 
surveyed  ;  and  the  relative  situation  of  the 
different    parts    of  it    appeared    to   us    to  be 


(3)  See  "  Voyage  du  Jeune  Anacharsis."    Tab.    XXVII.   Fig.  1. 
Paris,  1790. 


192  VOYAGE   TO    ATHENS. 

chap,  erroneously  marked  in  our  best  maps.  But 
Pausanias  does  not  say  the  statue  was  visible 
from  Sunium:  his  words  are,  "to  those  sailing 
from  Sunium ;"  the  situation,  and  distance,  of 
the  spectator  are  therefore  very  indefinitely 
marked1. 

Towards  evening  we  were  again  becalmed, 
and  anchored  near  to  a  Cape  which  is  opposite 
to  a  point  of  the  Island  of  Salamis.  Here  we 
sent  the  pilot  on  shore  whom  we  had  brought 
from  Zia,  as  he  was  the  only  person  acquainted 
with  the  country,  directing  him  to  go  to  Athens 
and  hire  horses  to  meet  us  at  the  Piraeus  on 
the  following  day.  Soon  after  midnight,  a 
breeze  sprung  up ;  and  our  impatience  getting 
the  better  of  all  apprehension,  we  resolved  to 
steer  for  the  Piraeus,  without  any  other  pilot 
than  the  stars,  which  shone  with  great  bright- 
ness. We  knew  that  our  course  was  due  north  : 
and  therefore  pointing  out  the  polar  star  to  the 
master  of  the  caique,  we  persuaded  him  to  get 
under  weigh,  promising  to  pilot  his  vessel  into 
harbour  as  safely  as  we  had  done  before  into 


(1 )  Trjg  'ABrjvac  tj  rov  $6parog  aixp*j  *«»  6  \6fo£  tov  KpdvovQ,  aw6 
Sovviov  irpo?ir\f owlv  t<rrty  rjtiti  rovoirra.  Pausanim  Attica,  e.  88. 
p.  67.     Lips.  1096. 


VOYAGE   TO   ATHENS.  193 

the  port  of  Zia*.     There  was  barely  wind  enough   chap. 
to  keep  the  vessel  steady  to  her  helm ;   there-  y**»s*J 
fore  if  she  chanced  to  fall  upon  a  rock  or  a 
shoal)  it  would  be  easy  to  get  her  off  again,  and 
the  pilot  had  said  that  the  course  was  clear. 
Accordingly,  we  set  sail,  and  for  once  ventured 
towards  a  lee-shore,  without  seeing  any  thing  of 
the  land.     In  this  manner  passing  the  mouth  of 
the  old  haven  Phalerum,  as  we  drew  near  to 
the  Munychian  Isthmus,  we  distinctly  perceived 
the  coast,  like  a  long  dark  wall,  before  us.     Upon 
this,  we   stood  somewhat   farther  out,  towards 
the  north-west ;  and  doubling  the  point,  lowered 
our  sails,  and  took  to  the  oars,  steering  north- 
east, and  afterwards  due  east ;  by  which  means 
we  soon  entered  the  outer  port  of  the  Piraeus  ;  Arrival 
but  endeavouring  to  pass  farther  in,  we  drove  pirnou. 
the  vessel  upon  the  ruined  pier,  on  the  Muny- 
chian side.     Daylight  was  beginning  to  dawn ; 
and  a  part  of  this  pier  rose  above  the  water,  so 
that  we  were  enabled  to  land  upon  it,  and  lighten 
the  caique   while    our    sailors    were    employed 
in  getting  her  head  off  the  pier.     We  found  the 
entrance  to  the  inner  harbour  to  be  close  to  this 


(2)  The  variation  of  the  compass  12°.  55',  as  observed  in  1751, 
slakes  the  course  exactly  north  by  the  magnetic  needle.  See  StuarV$ 
Athens;  Map  of  Attica ;  vol.111. 

VOL.    VI.  O 


194  APPROACH   TO    ATHENS* 

chap,  part  of  the  antient  rampart ;  but  it  was  eight 
^■v-^,  o'clock  a.m.  October  the  twenty-ninth,  before  we 
brought  the  vessel  to  an  anchor  off  the  custom- 
house, in  a  good  sandy  bottom,  and  about  four 
fathoms  water.  Seven  or  eight  fathoms  may  be 
found  nearer  to  the  mouth,  and  eleven  between 
the  two  piers,  the  bottom  shelving  into  fifteen 
and  twenty  fathoms  in  the  outer  port,  with  good 
anchorage1. 

Approach  At  ten  o'clock,  we  landed;  and  having  mounted 
'  our  horses,  took  the  antient  road  to  the  city,  by 
the  indistinct  remains  of  the  walls  of  Canon*,  the 
Sepulchre  of  Menander,  and  the  Cenotaph  of 
Euripides.  It  were  useless  to  relate  the  feelings 
with  which  we  viewed  the  grandest  and  most 
affecting  sight  that  hath  been  left  for  modern 
times.  The  Classical  Reader,  already  con- 
vinced that  nothing  exists  upon  earth  to  equal 

(1)  As  an  extraordinary  event  in  the  history  of  the  Piraeus,  it  may 
he  mentioned,  that  the  author's  brother,  Captain  Clarke  of  the  Royal 
Nary,  brought  an  English  frigate,  the  Bradktl,  to  an  anchor  within 
this  port ;  but  not  without  considerable  damage  to  the  ship.  Tb« 
Athenians  flocked  in  crowds  to  witness  this  extraordinary  spectacle. 
See  a  narrative  of  the  event  in  the  Notes  to  an  edition  of  Falconer's 
Shipwreck,  by  the  Rev.  J.  S.  Clarke,  LL.D.  theBiographer  of  Nelson, 

(l)'AytoVrMV  Sk  U  Ilctpai&c,  iptliria  rwv  rugM"  forty,  &  JLSvuy 
fortpop  rqc  irpbc  KvlSov  yav/iagiac  avkornvi.  Pausan.  Attica,  c.  2. 
p.  7.    Lips.  1606. 


APPROACH   TO   ATHENS.  195 

it,  may  give  a  traveller  credit  for  emotions,  chap. 
similar  to  those  excited  in  his  own  mind  by  the 
mere  mention  of  an  approach  to  Athens  ;  and 
he  will  anticipate,  by  his  imagination,  what  it  is 
impossible  to  describe.  Such  is  the  nature  of 
the  place,  and  such  the  magnitude  of  its  ruins, 
that,  in  a  general  view,  time  seems  to  have 
spent  its  ravages  upon  it  in  vain.  The  Acro- 
polis, and  the  Temples,  and  the  Tombs,  and  the 
Theatres,  and  the  Groves,  and  the  Mountains, 
and  the  Mocks,  and  the  Plain,  and  the  Gardens, 
and  the  Vineyards,  and  the  Fountains,  and  the 
Baths,  and  the  Walls,  and  the  Gates,  as  they 
appeared  to  Pericles,  Socrates,  and  to  Alcibiades. 
"  Adsunt  Athene,  unde  humanitas,  doo 
trina,  religio,  fruges,  jura,  leges  ort.e, 
atque  in  omnes  terras  distributee,  putantur  : 
de  quarum  professione,  propter   pulchritu- 

DINEM,  ETIAM  INTER  DeOS  CERTAMEN  FUISSE 
PRODITUM  EST.  URBS,  INQUAM,  QUiE  VETUSTATE 
EA  EST,  UT  IPSA  EX  SESE  SUOS  CIVES  GENUISSE 
dicatur:  AUTHORITATE  autem  TANTA,  UT  JAM 
FRACTUM  PROPE  ET  DEBILITATUM  GRJECIM  NOMEN, 
HUJUS  URBIS  LAUDS  NITATUR." 


O    2 


PLAN  of  (h,  ANTIQUITIES  of  ATHENS. 

9      ■&*. 


.  PirMtn  Can. 

.  r*y*. 

.  Hum*. 

.  ISmwnt  of  Fhilo- 
pappoa, 

■.  Areopttgvt. 

i.  Grotto  of  Pm. 

.  Pietun  GalUry. 

I.  Propylta. 

I.  Tmylt  of  Victory. 

I.  Erttthmm. 

..    Pnrthrnim. 


12.  7fc«lr,  of  Regill.. 

13.  Ckijir  PtUari. 

14.  Choragit    Monument 
of  Tbrujllus. 

15.  Chorogic    Mount    of 

16.  Th/atri  of  Bacchui. 

17.  JVmpit    of   Japicei 
Olympic. 

IB.    ,4rrh  of  llndriln. 

19.  -iniienl  Wniti. 

30.  Stadium  of  Herodei. 

CHAP.  IV. 


32.   Fount 
face. 


./  Cllir- 


23.  Fun 

24.  Ttmpkof  th,  Wimdi. 

25.  Gynmaimn   «/  Pto- 

36.  Timpi  «f   Tlmeni. 
27.  Sacmf     Gal*      />«. 

EleaaB. 
38.  Long     Walk    of   tki 


ATHE   N  8. 

Origin  of  the  fabulous  Contest  between  Neptune 
and  Minerva—  Antient  Sepulchral  Monument 
— Excavations  at  Athens — View  of  the  Ce- 
cropian  Citadel— Funereal  Aspect  of  the  City 
—  Objects  in  tke  perspective — State  of  the  An- 
tiquities— Interesting  Relic — Remarks  upon 
entering  Athens  — Guilletiere — Ascent  of  the 
Acropolis  —  Relic  of  Phidian  Sculpture  — 
Adytum  of  Pan — 'Upa  of  the  Greeks—  Por- 
table Shrines — Statue  of  Pan  —  Celebrated 
Artist — Spoliation  of  tke  Temples  —  Comparison 


ATHENS. 

between  the  Grecian  and  Roman  Buildings — 
Athenian,  Posidonian,  and  iEginetan  Archi- 
tecture— Cause  of  the  Injury  sustained  in  the 
Sculpture  of  the  Parthenon — Splendid  Repre- 
sentation of  the  Panathenaea — Description  of 
the  Work — The  Cothurnus,  and  Petasus  or 
Pileus — Practice  of  gilding  and  painting  Sta- 
tues— Marbles  used  in  the  Acropolis — Singular 
Construction  of  the  Erect  he  urn — Of  the  Pry- 
taneum — Temples  of  Pandrosus  and  Minerva 
Polias— Of  the  Olive,  and  Well- Propyls* 
— Walls  of  the  Acropolis — Odeum  of  Regilla 
— General  Description  of  the  Theatres  of 
Greece — Areopagus —  Temple  of  Theseus. 

This  road,  from  the  Piraeus  to  Athens,  extend-    C1|y#p" 
ing  for  about  five  miles,  formerly  passed  over 
marshy  ground  ;  for  the  foundations  of  the  two 
long  walls,  which  enclosed  the  Piraeus  within 
the    precincts  of   Athens,   were,    according   to 
Plutarch,  laid  in  a  .marshy  soil,  prepared  for  the 
purpose  by  being  filled    with  huge   pieces  of 
rock1*     An  inference  may  be  deduced  from  this 
circumstance,   which   does    not    seem   to   have 
been  noticed ;  that  the  plains  of  Greece  having 
evidently  resulted  from  the  retiring  of  waters 
gradually  carried   off  by   evaporation   and    by 

(l)  Aiytrcu  Zk  *al  rmv  paKpQv  tux**  &  ffciXiy  roXovat,  <rvvTt\«r- 
ftfroc  fuv  vartpor  r^v  oUo&ofriav,  r^v  £2  irp+rrtjv  Otfukuteiv,  tic  tSvovq 
iAttfaf  mi  ttaflpSxoug  rmv  lpy*v  l^inabvrmv  ipn<T9fjvai  M  Kifutvoc 
«*fri£c,  %akuu  woXXj  mat  XiBoiQ fiapi<ri  rmv  i\*v  *U99ivt*v,Uuvov 
Xpipara  wpitorroc  *ai  Idovro^.  Plutarch*  Cimon.  Urn.  III.  p.  126. 
1723. 


198  ATHENS. 

chap,  other    causes,    the    lakes  and  marshes    which 
V-^s/^/  remained   in  antient  times  were  so  many  relics 

ttieFabo-  °^  *^c  retrea^ng  flood.  Hence,  perhaps,  the 
lwwCon-  origin  of  the  antiquated  and  popular  fable, 
tweenNep-  among  the  earliest  settlers  in   Attica,   of  the 

tune  and  ° 

Mmtrva.  contest  between  Neptune  and  Minerva  for  the 
country,  rather  than  that  which  Plutarch  has 
assigned  ;  who  believed  it  to  have  been  founded 
on  the  endeavours  of  the  kings  to  withdraw  the 
people  from  a  sea-faring  life  to  the  labours  of 
agriculture1.  After  this  contest  is  said  to  have 
happened,  Neptune  is  described  as  endeavouring 
to  regain  the  territory  by  subsequent  inunda- 
tions. Some  of  the  lakes  noticed  by  historians 
are  now  become  marshes,  and  the  marshes  they 
mention  are  become  dry  land.  There  is  now 
little  appearance  of  marshy  land  between  the 
Piraeus  and  Athens*:  the  road  lies  through 
vineyards,  olive-grounds,  and  plantations  of  fig- 
trees.  Several  plants  were  in  flower ;  and  the 
specimens  we  collected  were  fresher  than  those 
we   gathered    in    the  islands.      In   one  of  the 

sepulchral  vineyards  we  saw  a  Tumulus,  which  is  undoubt- 

Monu- 


ment. 


(1)  Vid.  Plutarch,  in  Themitt.  torn.  I.  p.  268.    Lond.  1729. 

(2)  We  did  not  observe  any  thing  of  this  nature  in  the  road  from  the 
Piraeus;  but  in  the  map  of  Attica,  as  surveyed  by  Stuart,  there  b 
notice  of  a  manhy  soil  bordering  the  Phalerum,  now  called  Porto 
Phanari.    See  StuarVe  Athens*    Lond.  1794. 


ATHENS.  199 

ediy  an  antient  sepulchre.  The  monument  of  chap. 
Euripides  was  a  Cenotaph,  but  that  of  Menander 
did  really  contain  his  ashes.  The  tomb  of 
Euripides  was  at  Pella,  in  Macedonia ;  possibly, 
therefore,  this  mound  may  have  been  the  sepul- 
chre of  the  Comic  Poet  Pausanias,  speaking 
of  the  Cenotaph  of  Euripides,  calls  it  Mv^a\ 
This  is  evidently  Ta^o?,  but  it  has  upon  its 
summit  the  remains  of  some  structure,  not 
as  for  the  support  of  a  Sttte>  but  of  a  MvnjuTov 
raised  upon  the  mound ;  which  would  rather 
confirm  Chandler's  opinion,  who  believed  it  to 
be  the  monument  raised  to  Euripidef.  It  had 
not  been  opened  at  the  time  of  our  arrival.  The 
business  of  making  excavations  among  the 
Grecian  tombs  was  then  beginning  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood   of   Athens,   and    it  has  since  abun- 1*™** 

'  Athens* 

dantly  rewarded  the  taste  of  those  travellers 
under  whose  patronage  such  labours  have  been 
carried  on5.     We  observed  the  remains  of  the 


(S)  See  Pausanku,  lib.  L  c  2.  p.  6*.    Ups.  1096. 

(4)  See  Travels  in  Greece,  p.  84.    Oaf.  1776. 

(5)  A  French  artist,  Mont.  Fauvel,  is  said  to  bare  met  with  great 
■access  in  these  researches.  Don  Battista  Lusieri  opened  several 
tombs,  and  thus  made  a  collection  of  the  most  valuable  Grecian 
vases.  Among  English  travellers,  the  Earl  of  Abbrdbbh  is  particu- 
larly distinguished  for  his  liberality  in  encouraging  works  of  this  kind : 
the  more  laudable,  in  being  opposed  to  the  lamentable  operations 
whfch  another  British  Earl,  one  of  his  Lordship's  countrymen,  was 

then 


200  ATHENS. 

chap,   the  antient  paved  way  leading  from  the  Pirceetts  ; 
* — v — '  also,  of  an  aqueduct.     As  we  drew  near  to  the 


then  prosecuting  to  the  uttbb  ruin  of  the  finest  works  of  Antient 
Greece.  To  the  Earl  of  Aberdeen,  History  and  the  Fine  Arts  will  ever 
be  indebted,  for  the  pains  he  bestowed  in  the  excavation  and  restora- 
tion of  the  Pnyx,  and  for  other  similar  undertakings.  (See  Appendix 
to  the  Cambridge  Marbles,  p.  67.  Comb.  1809.)  Many  of  our  coun- 
trymen have  since  followed  Lord  Aberdeen's  example. 

Upon  the  subject  of  the  excavations  at  Athene,  Mr.  Walpole  has  the 
following  observations  in  his  Journal : 

"Travellers,  who  will  be  at  the  pains  to  excavate  the  soil  in  the 
vicinity  of  Athens,  will  be  amply  rewarded  for  their  trouble.  The 
vases  which  Signor  Lusieri  has  found  in  digging  near  the  city  are,  In 
their  form  and  general  execution,  not  to  be  surpassed  by  any  that  nave 
been  discovered  in  Italy  and  Sicily.  Among  other  remains  of  antiquity, 
he  has  found  musical  instruments  (the  atiXbc  and  wXaytavXoc, 
called  by  the  Modern  Greeks,  xayiavXiov),  ornaments  of  dress  of 
various  kinds,  ear-rings  of  gold,  and  mirrors.  These  last  are  of 
metal :  in  Pliny  (lib.  34.)  we  find  mention  of  the  employment  of  tin 
and  silver  in  the  fabrication  of  them :  the  Jews  and  Egyptians  used 
those  made  of  brass.  In  the  time  of  Pompey  there  were  some  of 
silver.  The  form  of  the  antient  mirror  is  observed  frequently  on  vases 
in  this  shape  9  >  being  the  character  of  one  of  the  planets  and  a  metal ; 
namely,  Venus,  and  copper:  the  meaning  of  it,  thus  applied,  is 
evident,  as  mirrors  were  sacred  to  Venus,  and  were  made  of  a  metal 
from  Cyprus;  that  is,  copper;  and  were  covered  with  a  leaf  of  silver. 
In  the  analysis  of  a  mirror,  Caylus  discovered  a  mixture  of  copper, 
regulus  of  antimony,  and  lead :  copper  was  tho  preponderating ;  lead, 
the  least  part. 

"  In  the  Ceramicus,  near  to  the  site  of  the  Academy,  was  discovered 
that  very  antient  and  interesting  Inscription  in  verse  (now  in  England), 
of  which  Mods.  Fauvel  gave  me  a  copy  at  Athens,  relating  to  those 
Athenians  who  had  fallen  at  Potidsea,  in  the  Peloponnesian  war  :  the 
first  line,  legible,  begins,  AieEPMEMftZTXASYHEAEXSATO  .  . 
The  form  of  the  letters,  and  other  archaisms,  render  the  inscription 
very  valuable.  Near  the  Church  of  Soteira  Lycodemon,  probably  the 
site  of  the  antient  Lyceum,  was  found  an  Inscription,  copied  also  by 

Mons* 


ATHENS.  201 

walls,  we  beheld  the  vast  Cecropian  Citadel,    chap. 

IV. 

crowned  with  temples  which  have  originated  in  s^vw 
the  veneration  once  paid  to  the  memory  of  the  ct^aS^ 
illustrious  dead1,  surrounded  by  objects  telling 
the  same  theme  of  sepulchral  grandeur,  and 
now  monuments  of  departed  greatness,  mould-  Fnnereai 
ering  in  all  the  solemnity  of  ruin.    So  para-  ^clty0/ 
mount  is  this  funereal  character  in  the  approach 
to  Athens  from  the  Piraeus,  that  as  we  passed 
the  hill  of  the  Mushim,  which  was,  in  fact,  an 
antient  ccemetery  of  the   Athenians,  we  might 
have  imagined  ourselves  to  be  among  the  tombs 
of  Telmessusj  from  the  number  of  the  sepulchres 
hewn  in  the  rock,  and  from  the  antiquity  of  the 


Fan  vel,  mentioning  Dionysius,  Avctiov  ixi/aX^rijc.  The  removal 
of  the  earth  from  part  of  the  Pnyx  has  given  as  a  more  exact  notion 
of  the  form  of  that  celebrated  place  of  assembly.  A  number  of  votive 
offering*  were  found  at  the  time  of  the  excavation  by  Lord  Aberdeen; 
bat  to  what  Deity  or  what  temple  they  belonged,  it  is  difficult  to  say. 
On  one  of  them,  having  an  eye  sculptured  on  the  stone,  were  the 
words  E$ftog  votary  iv%tJv  :  on  another  I  saw,  Svvrpof  og  tyiery  Aft 
Xapcffnfpiov."  Walpole's  MS.  Journal* 

(1)  The  first  place  of  worship  in  the  Acropolis  of  Athens  was  the 
Sepulchre  of  Cecrops.  The  Parthenon  was  erected  upon  the  spot. 
(Set  the  Observation*  in  Vol.  II.  of  these  Travels,  Chap.  II.  p.  76. 
Octavo  edition.)  The  Athenians  preserved  his  tomb  in  the  Acro- 
potis,  and  that  of  Eriethonius  in  the  Temple  of  Minbrya  Polias. 
(Vict.  Antioeh.  apud  Clemen.  Alexand.  torn.  1. p.  39.  Oxon.  1715.) 
Bene*  Clemens  is  of  opinion  that  tombs  were  the  origin  of  all  their 
temples  :  New?  pkv  lirjrjpuc  6Vo/ta£o/uvovc,  rafovQ  ik  ytvopivovg,  rod- 
Tiert  rovt rafovc,  vti*Q  iirucfcXiffUvovc*  Clementis  Alexandrini  Cohor- 
tatio  ad  Gentet,  c.  3.  torn*  I.  p.  39.    Oxon.  1715. 


202  ATHENS. 

chap,    workmanship,  evidently  not  of  later  date  than 
v^v^  &ny  thing  of  the  kind  in  Asia  Minor.     In  other 
respects,  the  city   exhibits  nearly   the  appear- 
ance briefly  described  by  Strabo  eighteen  cen- 
turies   before  our    coming1;    and,   perhaps,   it 
wears  a  more  magnificent  aspect,  owing  to  the 
splendid  remains  of  Hadrians  Temple  of  Olym- 
pian Jove,   which   did  not  exist  when  Athens 
was  visited  by  the  disciple  of  Xenarchus.     The 
object*  in  prodigious  columns  belonging  to  this    temple 
ipecu?e.    appeared  full  in  view  between  the  Citadel  and 
the  bed  of  the  HHssus* :  high  upon  our  left  rose 
the  Acropolis,  in  the  most  impressive  grandeur1 : 
an  advanced  part  of  the  rock,  upon  the  western 
side  of  it,  is  the  Hill  of  the  Areopagus,  where 
St.  Paul  preached  to  the  Athenians,  and  where 

their  most  solemn  tribunal  was  held4.     Beyond 

. • 

(1)  Td  8'  &9TV  airb  irirpa  ioriv  iv  ireSii?,  wtptoiKovfiiyn  cvcX^*  i*2 
Sk  rj  wirpa  rd  rrjc  'AOnvac  Upbv,  o,  ti  apxa*°C  v«wf  d  rjjc  UoXi&ioc, 
tvif  6  dofiteroc  X6%vo£,  tal  o  UapQivvv,  dv  kToiqatv  'Icrlvoc,  i*  *•  to 
rov  Qttdiov  Ipyov  iki+avrivov,  if  'AOnva.  Strabon.  Qeog.  lib.  viii.  p, 
574.    Oxon.  1807. 

(2)  8ee  the  Plate  feeing  p.  600  of  Vol.  III.  of  the  Quarto  Edition 
of  these  Travels,  from  a  Drawing  by  Preaux,  made  upon  the  spot: 
alto  the  Vignette  to  thlt  Chapter.  The  author  pretendi  not  to  agitate 
the  question,  whether  this  building  be  really  the  Temple  of  Jupiter, 
or  the  Pantheon:  the  Reader  may  be  referred  to  the  proofs  in  support 
of  the  former  opinion,  as  they  are  given  by  the  Earl  of  Aberdeen,  in  the 
Introduction  to  Wilkhts'e  Translation  of  Vitruviue,  p.  66;  also  in  Note 
(1)  to  p.  9  of  the  Text  of  that  work.    Land.  1812. 

(3)  See  the  Plate  above  referred  to,  and  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter. 

(4)  Ibid. 


ATHENS.  203 

all9   appeared   the  beautiful   Plain   of    Athens,    chap. 
bounded  by  Mount  Hymettus.     We  rode  towards 


the  craggy  rock  of  the  citadel,  passing  some 
tiers  of  circular  arches  at  the  foot  of  it ;  these  state  of 
are  the  remains  of  the  Odtum  of  H erodes,  Atticus?  q„uiea. " 
built  in  memory  of  his  wife  Regilla.  Thence 
continuing  to  skirt  the  base  of  the  Acropolis,  the 
road  winding  rather  towards  the  north,  we  saw 
also  upon  our  left,  scooped  in  the  solid  rock,  the 
circular  sweep  on  which  the  Athenians  were 
wont  to  assemble  to  hear  the  plays  of  JEschylus, 
and  where  the  Theatre  of  Bacchus  was  after- 
wards constructed.  The  Torso  of  a  statue  of  the 
Iwdian  Bacchus,  placed,  in  a  sitting  attitude, 
upon  the  Choragic  Monument  of  Thrasyllus 
above  this  theatre,  exhibited  to  us  the  first 
specimen  of  Athenian  sculpture  which  we  had 
seen  upon  the  spot ;  atld  with  the  additional 
satisfaction  of  viewing  it  in  the  situation  where 
it  was   originally   placed6.      Stuart  considered 


(5)  Sea  the  Plate  above  referred  to. 

(6)  This  statue  was  long  bettered  to  be  that  of  a  female.  Stuart 
represented  it  with  a  female  head.  (See  Stuart's  Antiq.  of  Athens, 
•■L  Ii.dk.  iv.  PI.  6.  Land,  1817.)  Chandler  considered  it  at  the 
stttae  of  Niobt.  (Trav.in  Greece,  p.  64.  Cxf.  1776.)  It  really  re- 
presented the  Indian,  or  bearded,  Bacchus;  ]»art  of  the  beard  having 
bam  discovered  upon  the  statue.  It  is  moreover  decorated  with  the 
tpafli  of  a  panther.    Alas !  not  only  this  Statue,  but  also  the  antient 

Sun-dial 


in*  Relic. 


204  ATHENS. 

the  theatre  as  the  Odium  of  Pericles1 ;  and  it  i 
remarkable  that  Pausanias  mentions  a  statue  < 
Bacchus,  as  worthy  of  notice,  in  a  coospicuot 
situation  upon  entering  the  Odtum*.  Upon  th 
lateral-  eastern  side  of  this  statue,  fastened  in  the  rocl 
appeared  a  still  more  interesting  relic  ;  namel] 
the  very  antient  Sun-dial  which,  in  the  time  < 
<32schylus,  of  Sophocles,  and  Euripides,  indicate 
to  the  Athenian  people  the  hour  at  which  the 
plays  were  to  begin.  This  we  had  reason  I 
hope  would  be  permitted  to  remain  where  it  ha 
been  so  long  preserved ;  as  no  antient  n< 
modern  Alaric  had  deemed  it  to  be  an  obje 
worthy  of  his  regard.  Above  the  statue  v 
saw  also  the  two  Choragic  Pillars  for  su] 
porting  tripods,  described  by  Chandler*  an 
by  Stuart*,  standing  high  upon  the  stec 
acclivity  of  the  rock5.     Fortunately  for  us,  v 


Sun-dial  near  to  it,  which  had  existed  there  ercr  since  the  time 
jEschylus,  Sophocles,  and  Euripides— antiquities  which  were  01 
Taloable  as  long  as  they  remained  in  their  original  situation — hm  b* 
since  pulled  doum^nd  carried  of,  in  the  name  of  the  British  Nation, 
the  agents  of  onr  Ambassador  at  the  Parte!!  ! 
(1)  Antiq.  of  Athens,  vol.  II.  p.  7.  Letter  ft. 

(3)  *Ec  ik  to  'Aftfrntfir  tict\9ov<nv  tftelov,  aXXa  rt  coi   Atom 
ttiraj  Mac,  a£«>c.    Pausan.  lib.  L  c  1 4.  p.  34.    Lips.  1 696. 

(9)  TraT.  in  Greece,  p.  63.    Oxford,  1776. 

(4)  Antiq.  of  Athens,  vol.  II.  ch.  4.    Land.  1787. 

(5)  See  the  Plate  in  the  Quarto  Edition  of  these  Travels,  Vol.  1 
abore  referred  to. 


ATHENS.  205 

arrived  before  the  spoliation  of  this  part  of  the    chap. 
antient  city ;    and   we  therefore  saw  all  these 
interesting  objects,  as  they  existed  in  the  time  of 
Pericles. 


We  then  entered  the  gate  of  the  modern  city  : 
and  almost  the  first  object  we  beheld  was  the 
only  remaining  structure  of  all  the  consecrated 
fabrics  that  once  adorned  the  famous  Street  of 
the  Tripods,  the  elegant  choragic  Monument 
of  Ltsicrates6.  In  the  small  Capuchin  Con- 
vent annexed  to  this  building,  our  friend  and 
former  companion  in  the  Plain  op  Troy, 
Don  Battista  LusierF ,  had  fixed  bis  residence. 


(6)  See  Stuart's  Antiq.  of  A  then*,  vol.  I.  ch.  iv.  Plate  3.  Lend.  1762. 

(7)  This  celebrated  artist,  better  known  by  the  name  of  Don  Tita, 
it  a  native  of  Naples;  he  resided  many  years  in  Italy,  where  he  was 
waowned  for  his  beautiful  drawings  in  water-colours.  Many  of  his 
tat  works  are  in  the  Collections  of  our  English  Nobility.  By  tome, 
b*  compositions  have  been  deemed  too  laboured  ;  but  his  colouring  is 
Otyritite,  and  nothing  can  exceed  the  fidelity  and  perfection  of  his 
«*tfme  and  perspective.  It  may  be  said  of  Lusieri,  as  of  Claude 
Wrow,  •«  If  he  be  not  the  Poet,  he  is  the  Historian  of  Nature." 
*ft«n  the  French  invaded  Naples,  he  retired  to  Sicily,  and  was  long 
•■ployed  among  the  Ruins  of  Agrigentum,  devoted  entirely  to  his 
fctouite  pursuit.  The  desire  of  seeing  Greece,  tempted  him  to 
fcfov  the  British  Embassy  to  Constantinople,  in  1799;  whence  he 
Rnovedto  Athens;  where  he  now  lives,  surrounded  by  everything 
tbtt  may  exercise  his  genius ;  and  where  he  is  not  less  distinguished 
by  his  amiable  disposition,  and  disinterested  attention  to  travellers  who 
*ttt  the  city,  than  by  his  taste,  and  knowledge  of  every  thing  connected 
*ith  the  history  of  the  Pine  Arts. 


206 


ATHENS. 


chap.    A  monk  told  us  that  he  was  then  busy  in  the 

nr.  m  J 

Acropolis,  making  drawings  in  the  Erecto^um ; 
therefore  leaving  our  horses  and  baggage,  we 
set  out  instantly  in  pursuit  of  him,  anticipating 
the  gratification  we  should  recive,  not  only  in 
surprising  him  by  our  appearance  where  he  had 
not  the  smallest  expectation  of  seeing  us,  but 
also  in  viewing  the  noblest  monuments  of  anti- 
quity with  a  Cicerone  so  well  qualified  to  point 
out  their  beauties. 


Remark! 
upon  en* 
tering 
Athens. 


As  we  are  now  about  to  ascend  the  Acro- 
polis, and  of  course  to  enter  upon  a  descrip- 
tion of  antiquities  which  are  well  known,  it  is 
necessary  to  premise  that  our  observations  will 
be  brief.  To  give  a  detailed  account  of  every 
thing  which  has  been  hitherto  deemed  worthy 
of  notice  in  such  a  city  as  Athens,  would  be  as 
much  a  work  of  supererogation  as  to  republish 
all  the  inscriptions  which  have  been  found  in  the 
place,  and  to  renew  the  detail  of  every  circum- 
stance so  often  related  concerning  its  antient 
history.  The  author's  remarks  will  be  confined 
to  such  observations  as,  to  the  best  of  his 
knowledge,  have  not  been  made  by  former 
travellers ;  but,  perhaps,  even  in  such  a  com- 
munication, it  will  not  be  always  possible  to 
avoid    repeating   what   others    may   have   said. 


ATHENS.  207 

A  mistaken  opinion  prevailed  until  towards  the  CIJ*P- 
end  of  the  seventeenth  century1,  that  the  remains 
of  Athens  bad  been  almost  rased  from  the  earth, 
and  that  even  its  name  no  longer  existed.  The 
few  merchants  who  resorted  to  the  Piraeus 
from  Italy  and  from  other  parts  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean, had  given  to  it  the  barbarous  appellation 
of  Setines  or  Sethina* :  although,  "  of  all  the 
antient  cities  in  Greece"  as  an  early  traveller 
remarked,  who  will  presently  be  more  particu- 
larly noticed,  "  no  one  has  preserved  its  name 
with  better  success  than  Athens  has  done ;  for 
both  Greeks  and  Turks  call  it  A8HNH."  This  is 
another  instance  of  the  corruptions  introduced 


(1)  dandier  says,  "until  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century;" 
bet  the  public  cariosity  does  not  appear  to  bare  been  directed  to  this 
city  until  long  after  the  publication  of  the  work  to  which  he  alludes. 

(2)  Sethma,  and  Satina,  are  corruptions,  according  to  Portia  and 
Meurtius  from  tic  'Afnva.  Various  conjectures  have  arisen  touching 
the  origin  of  the  antient  name.  Heinsius  (in  A  rut ar.  Sac.  Synt.  1. 1. 
p.  27.)  derives  it  from  the  Chaldean  M3J1  then  a,  signifying  to  study  or 
Ueam,  written  with  an  article,  battheka.  In  the  time  of  Diodoms 
Siemlms,  and  before  him,  it  was  a  received  opinion  that  Athens  was 
peopled  by  the  Egyptians  :  Sa'is,  in  the  Egyptian  language,  answering 
to  Athenm  in  Greek.  The  word  Sethina  is  found  in  the  Latin 
Poem  of  Hugo  FavoUus  {in  Hodap.  Byz.  f.  iii.)  who  himself  visited 
the  spot. 

Undique  sic  misers  nobis  spectantur  Athena?, 
Dsddala  quas  Pallas  sese  eoluisse  negaret, 
Quas,  Neptune  pater,  nunquam  tua  moenia  dices, 
Indigene  Sethina  vocant." 


« 


208  ATHENS. 

chap,  into  the  modern  nomenclature  of  places  in 
Xm>r^  Greece,  by  Italians  and  by  Frenchmen:  and  it 
ought  to  be  the  constant  endeavour  of  authors, 
by  whom  the  country  is  described,  to  prevent 
this  abuse,  by  adopting  the  antient  names  in 
their  writings,  where  it  can  be  done  with  pro- 
priety, and  certainly  in  all  cases  where  they 
have  been  preserved  by  the  inhabitants.  It  has 
been  supposed  that  the  first  intelligence  of  the 
better  fate  of  Athens  was  communicated  to  the 
world  by  the  valuable  publications  of  Sir  George 
Wheler  and  Jacob  Spon  :  but  seven  years  before 
Wheler  and  his  companion  arrived  in  Athens,  it 
had  been  visited  by  the  traveller  above  men- 
tioned ;  who  anticipated  almost  every  thing 
which  they  have  said  upon  this  subject.;  and  the 
narrative  of  whose  Travels,  although  little 
known,  and  rarely  noticed  by  any  subsequent 
author,  contains  the  most  racy  description  of 
the  city  and  of  its  inhabitants,  of  its  antiquities 
and  statistics,  which  had  appeared  before  the 
time  of  its  publication.  This  traveller  was  De 
Guuutkn.  la  Guilletiere,  or,  as  he  sometimes  signed  him- 
self, Guillet,  answering  to  a  name  common  in 
England,  Willet.  After  four  years  of  slavery 
in  Barbary,  he  arrived  in  Athens,  in  company 
with  two  Italians,  two  Germans,  and  an  English- 
man of  the  name  of  Drelingston,  the  first  of  our 


ATHENS.  209 

countrymen  who  voluntarily  undertook  this  chap. 
voyage  for  the  mere  gratification  of  classical 
taste  and  literary  curiosity.  The  original  edition 
of  GuilUtieres  work  appeared  in  Paris  in  January 
1675.  In  the  beginning  of  June  in  the  same 
year,  Wheler  "  hastened  to  Venice,"  (it  is  his 
own  expression1,)  after  his  travels  in  France 
and  Italy,  in  search  of  Dr.  Spon,  to  accompany 
him  upon  a  similar  voyage.  It  is  therefore 
highly  probable  that  the  success  of  Guilletieres 
expedition  excited  Wheler  to  this  sudden  under- 
taking :  that  he  had  seen  his  work  is  evident, 
for  he  cites  it,  calling  its  author  De  la  Gulitier*, 
and  Guiltier*;  and  although  he  speak  rather 
lightly  of  bis  predecessor4,  he  sometimes  co- 
pies him  without  owning  bis  obligation5.     His 


(1)  WkeUr'i  Journey  into  Greece,  p.  1.    Lend.  1682. 
(*)  Ibid.  p.  340. 
(9)  Ibid.  p.  963. 

(4)  "  Bat  not  as  Monsieur  OuUiter  affirmeth"  ....  "My  com- 
panion and  I  were  not  so  much  surprized,  &c.  as  Monsieur  Guiltier" 

•  • those  manrcluus  stones  Monsieur  Guiliter  makes  such  a 

iJTiHe  of  ....  &c.    Ibid. 

(5)  Of  this,  several  instances  may  be  pointed  out,  where  the  transcript 
Is  as  literal  as  it  can  be  from  one  language  Into  another.  "  A  1'egard 
da  langage,  fl  est  le  plus  pur,  ct  le  moins  corroropu  de  la  Qrece." 
(GmMet,  p.  165.  Paris, 1676.)  "  The  Athenians  seem  to  retain  more 
of  Hie  antient  Greek  in  their  language  than  the  rest  of  the  Modern 
Greets  do."  (  Wheler" s  Journey  into  Greece, p.  366.  Lond.\6S2.)  And, 
after  all,  this  it  not  true;  for  the  purest  Greek  is  not  spoken  in  Athens. 

VOL.    VI.  P  The 


210  ATHBH9. 

chap,  companion,  Spon,  had  done  the  same ;  but,  with 
all  his  learning,  he  has  not  produced  either  so 
entertaining  a  work  as  that  of  Guilletiere,  or, 
divested  of  its  inscriptions,  one  that  contains 
more  of  information.  We  may  therefore,  per* 
haps,  look  to  Guilletiere  as  to  the  person  who 
first  drew  the  attention  of  English  travellers 
towards  the  ruins  of  Athens;  for  although  the 
Letters,  giving  a  description  of  the  city,  which 
were  published  by  Martin  Crusins,  appeared 
nearly  a  hundred  years  before,  yet  those  Letters 


The  greatest  proof,  perhaps,  of  plagiarism  that  can  bt  adduced,  it  one  of 
this  nature;  shewing,  that  even  the  error$  of  an  amthor  have  bee* 
transcribed.  If  either  Wheler  or  his  companion  had  given  themselves 
the  trouble  to  consult  the  authors  cited  by  Meurtiut,  they  would  have 
found  the  very  opposite  of  this  assertion  expressly  stated;  that,  of 
above  seventy  dialects  now  remaining  in  Modern  Greece,  the  Athe- 
nian, instead  of  being  the  purest,  is  the  most  corrupted,  and  the  worst. 
Utpi  di  T(3v  dtaXsKTutv,  W  cLv  *al  etirot/u,  iroXXwv  ohv&v,  icai  Siaf6pw, 
itirtp  r<3v  ifidofifiKovra',  rovruv  d'  ajra£Jv, »)  TcJv'AOtjvaUtv  gcipfcmf. 
(  Vid,  Epist.  Sim.  Cabasila,  ad  Mart.  Cms.  script,  anno  1578.)  And 
Theodosius  Zyyomalas,  in  his  Letter  to  the  same  person,  says,  speaking 
of  the  Greek  langnage  in  Athens,  'HaAiov  8k  fiapflaooQ,  iariv  17  rw 
'AOnvaiwv  H  nc  r/v  hrt  v?rif  pgcv,  apivrif  av  ri£  tl  tliry  KaraSiaperpor. 
rg  iraXai,  oi>x  Slv  apdproi.  Meursii  Fortuna  Attica,  p.  113.  L.  Bat* 
1622.  Again,  Guilletiere,  after  the  passage  which  the  author  has  cited, 
concerning  the  existence  of  the  ancient  name  of  the  city,  says,  '•  Nos 
geographes  ont  beau  nous  le  vouloir  alterer  en  l'appellant  Setines" 
Wheler  transcribes  the  whole ;  and  also  adds,  "  I  wonder  our  modern 
geographers  have  been  no  better  informed  concerning  so  eminent  a  place, 
calling  it  most  corruptly,  in  their  maps,  Setines"  .  .  .  &c.  There  are 
many  other  examples  of  a  similar  nature,  in  the  volumes  both  of  Wheler 
hiASpon. 


ATHENS.  211 

have  attracted  more  notice  in  this  country  chap. 
since,  than  before,  Whaler's  time ;  and  they  ^-v^s 
always  tended  rather  to  maintain  than  to 
confute  the  erroneous  notion,  which  was  so 
long  prevalent,  concerning  the  condition  of 
the  city1.  Guilletiere's  diminutive  publica- 
tion is  nevertheless  so  comprehensive,  that, 
abating  a  few  partial  inaccuracies,  tho  conse- 
quences of  pursuing  an  untrodden  path,  his 
book  is,  even  at  the  present  day,  a  useful  guide 
to  the  antiquities  of  Athens;  and  his  plan  of  the 
city,  rude  as  it  may  appear  among  the  works  of 
later  artists,  is  so  much  better  than  that  which 
Wheler  afterwards  edited,  that  it  is  strange  the 
latter  did  not  adopt  it  in  his  work. 

As  we  ascended  the  steep  rock  on  which  the  Ascent  of 
Citadel  stands,  our  first  subject  of  wonder  was  jw/i*. 
the  power  displayed  by  the  Antients  in  con- 
veying up  such  an  acclivity  the  enormous 
masses  of  marble  necessary  in  the  construction 
of  so  many  sumptuous  edifices ;  when  all  the 
skill    and    ingenuity   of  the  best  workmen   in 


(1)  One  of  thote  Letters  is  from  a  native  of  Nauplia :  it  was  written 
i»  1576.  Its  author  says, "  'AXXd  ri  rdSv  'A0if  vJv  fivtjoOtig,  /icucpoXoy w ; 
ItpsM  XsifOf i?af  tov  wAXaiwork  €mov.  Sed  quid  malta  de  Atlienis 
dlco!  Soperest  bodie  tantum  pelli* :  animal  ipsam  olim  peril t"  VUL 
Bp%*.  Fam.  Turcogrecia,  lib.  Til.  p.  430.    Basil.  1583. 

P    2 


212  ATHENS. 

chap.  JSurope  were  requisite,  at  the  time  of  our  arrival, 
to  remove  some  of  the  most  delicate  ornaments 
of  the  temples,  in  an  entire  state,  from  the 
Acropolis  to  the  lower  city.  None  of  the  mate- 
rials of  those  temples  are  of  the  same  nature 
as  the  rock  upon  which  they  were  erected : 
the  quarries  of  Pentelicus,  of  Hymettus,  of  the 
Cyclades,  of  Lacedcemon,  and  of  the  most  distant 
mountains  of  Greece,  contributed  to  the  works 
necessary  for  their  completion.  All  the  huge 
blocks  of  marble  required  for  the  several  parts 
of  each  building  must  have  been  moved  up  the 
same  steep  ;  for  there  is  now,  as  there  was 
formerly,  but  one  way  facing  the  Piraeus  by 
which  the  summit  may  be  approached1.  In  our 
ascent,  we  found  an  inscription  on  white  marble, 
stating  that  u  the  Senate  of  the  Areopagus,  and 
of  the  Six  Hundred,  &c.  honour  Julius,"  &c.  the 
rest  being  wanted.  We  could  only  make  out 
the  following  characters : 

HEZAPEIOYnATOYBOY 

AHTflNEEAKOZIHNKAl 
IOYaIONNIKANOPA.. 


(1)  9Eq  Sk  ri)v  anpoxoXiv,  ioriv   tlaotoc  jiia,  (Jkrhpav  Hod  irapt- 
Xtrai,  Ttaoa  inrdro/ioQ  ova  a)  icai   rctgog  Ixovaa  l%vp6v. 
Attica, c.  22.  p.  51.    Lips.  1606. 


ATHENS.  213 

Soon  afterwards,  somewhat  higher  up,  we  also  chap. 
saw,  among  some  loose  stones  used  as  the  mate-  v^yl^ 
rials  of  a  wall  near  to  the  gate  of  the  Citadel,  a 
piece  of  sculpture  of  white  marble  in  very  bold 
relief,  representing  the  torso  of  a  male  figure.  This 
proved  to  be  nothing  less  than  a  fragment  of  one 
of  the  metopes  belonging  to  the  Parthenon  ;  and 
therefore,  as  the  undoubted  work  of  Phidias,  Be\\c  of 
although  but  a  fragment,  could  not  fail  to  be  sculpture. 
regarded  by  us  as  a  valuable  relic,  and  a  very 
great  curiosity.  It  was  not  to  be  easily  pro- 
cured ;  neglected  and  abandoned  as  we  found 
it  lying  ;  owing  to  the  embargo  then  laid  upon 
every  thing  of  this  kind  by  our  Ambassador, 
and  the  absolute  prohibition  against  moving  any 
thing,  excepting  into  his  store-house.  The 
Dudar,  however,  afterwards  claimed  it  as  his 
property,  and  presented  it  to  us ;  and  it  is  now 
in  the  Vestibule  of  the  University  Library  at 
Cambridge,  a  solitary  example  of  sculpture 
removed  from  the  ruins  of  the  Parthenon  without 
injuring  what  time  and  the  Goths  have  spared. 
Upon  the  left  hand  we  saw,  in  the  face  of  the 
rock,  the  small  cavern  which  perhaps  may  be 
considered  as  the  Grotto  of  Pan ;  for  this,  by  its  0f  h*™ 
relative  position  to  other  objects,  seems  to  be 
the  identical  cavity  which  is  represented  in  the 


on. 


214  ATHENS. 

chap.  Tiew  of  the  Acropolis  preserved  upon  an  antient 
medal  of  Athens  in  the  Collection  at  Parts1.  It 
is  below  the  right  wing  of  the  Propylaa,  or 
antient  vestibules  of  the  Citadel,  in  the  situation 
which  Pausanias  assigns  for  it ;  and  somewhat 
lower  in  the  rock  is  the  fountain  mentioned  also 
by  him*.  In  other  respects,  it  seems  ill  suited 
to  the  stories  which  caused  it  to  be  considered 
as  the  scene  of  Apollo's  amours  with  Creusa,  and 
as  a  place  of  residence  for  Pan  :  but  when  the 
mind  is  completely  subdued  by  superstition,  it 
is  seldom  burdened  by  any  scruples  as  to  proba- 
bility ;  the  same  priests  who  now  exhibit  at 
Jerusalem,  the  altar  of  a  small  chapel  as  the 
Hill  of  the  Crucifixion*  are  a  modern  example  of 
the  Nao^vXaiccc  who  attended  the  Shrine  of  Pan, 
and  they  possess  a  degree  of  intellect  as  well 
calculated  for  admitting  the  extravagances  re- 
lated of  the  one  as  of  the  other.  The  Grotto,  as 
it  now  appears,  seems  to  be  nothing  more  than 
one  of  those  niches  in  which  votive  offerings 


(1)  See  the  Greek  Coin  engraved  for  Barthdemy'i  Anacharris, 
Tab.  XXVII.  No.  1.    ParU,  1790. 

(2)  Kara/3a>t  8k  oinc  Iq  t$v  can*  tr6\ivf  &W  h<rov  vwb  rd  Tpowv- 
Aaia,  irijyrj  rt  Ibtiaroc  l<Tri,Kai  irXtjoiov  'AttoWwvos  Upbv  iv  airijXalip, 
cat  TlavoQ.    PausanUs,  lib.  i.  cap.  28.  p.  68.    Lips.  1606. 

(3)  See  Vol.  IV.  of  the  Octavo  edition  of  these  Travels,  Chap.  VII. 
p.  318. 


ATHENS.  216 

were  placed  ;  and  although  described  as  a  cave  chap. 
which  contained  a  temple  of  Apollo,  and  of  Pan\  ^-v-^ 
would  barely  admit  the  size  of  a  human  figure. 
But  this  allusion  in  antient  history  to  temples  so 
diminutive  that  they  could  not  have  exceeded  the 
size  of  a  child's  baby-house^  may  receive  illustra- 
tion, like  many  other  parts  of  the  Heathen  reli- 
gion, from  existing  superstitions.     The  subject 
has  not)  perhaps,  been  sufficiently  explained ;  as 
none  of  the  authors  who  have  written  on  Grecian 
antiquities  seem  to  be  aware  of  a  custom  which 
has  been  transmitted  from  the  earliest  ages  of 
Pagan  worship  to  modern  times.      The  fI«pi  'icpaof the 
of  the   Greeks,   as  well  as  the  Tabernacles  of 
Eastern  nations,  were  sometimes  not  only  porta-  Portab]e 
bk>  but  they  were  so  small,  that  the  Ktarai  iepal,  shrines. 
used  for  inclosing  them  during  journeys,  scarcely 
exceeded  the  size  of  the  fashionable  snuff-boxes 
now    used   by   the  petit-maitres  of    Paris  and 
London.  Examples  of  this  kind  of  portable  shrine 
are  particularly  common  in  Russia,  and  in  all 
countries  professing  the  religion  of  the    Greek 
Church  :  they  are  made  either  of  wood  or  of 
metal,  with  two  little  folding-doors,  which  are 
thrown   open  when  the  Bogh  or  idol  is  to  be 


(4)  Vid.  Pausan.  lib.  i.  ubi  supra. 


216  ATHENS. 

chap,  worshipped1.  Of  such  a  nature  were  the  shrines 
alluded  to  in  Sacred  History,  where  Demetrius  is 
described  as  stirring  up  those  who  made  silver 
shrines  or  tabernacles  for  Diana9;  that  is  to  say, 
little  temples,  or  cabinets  after  the  manner  of 
temples.  The  custom  of  using  them  has  been 
retained  among  the  Roman  Catholics.  The  first 
converts  to  Christianity  brought  the  use  of 
portable  temples  with  them  into  the  Christian 
Church  ;  for,  according  to  Socrates  Scholasticus, 
the  Emperor  Constantine  carried  with  him  a 
portable  temple  in  his  expedition  against  the 
Persians,  not  for  the  worship  of  any  idol,  but  of 
the  true  God8 :  this  was  a  kind  of  tent  said  to 
resemble  the  tabernacle  of  Moses  in  the  desert4. 
Hiera  of  this  kind  were  also  drawn  by  cattle 
The  Philistines  sent  back  "  the  Ark  of  the  God  of 
Israel"  in  "  a  new  cart"  drawn  by  "  two  milch 


(1)  The  pictures  of  Roman-Catholic  churches  hare  preserved  the 
form  of  these  shrines  to  a  very  late  age ;  the  doors  themselves  being 
painted,  and  serving,  when  thrown  open,  to  exhibit  a  subject  in  three 
compartments.  Of  this  form  was  the  famous  picture  of  the  elevation 
or  setting  up  of  the  Cross,  by  Rubens,  over  the  high  altar,  in  the 
Church  of  St.  Walburga,  at  Antwerp.  There  is  a  very  large  print  of 
this  capital  composition,  by  Witdoech,  otherwise  called  Witkone.  St. 
Walburga  was  an  English  woman. 

(2)  Acts  zix.  24. 

(3)  Socrates  Scholasticus,  lib.  i.  c.  18.     Cantab.  1720. 

(4)  Ibid. 


ATHENS.  217 

• 

kine4."  The  temple  of  Agrotes,  according  to  chap. 
Sanchoniatho  was  drawn  by  oxen.  The  portable 
temple  was  also  sometimes  carried  upon  men's 
shoulders :  and  although  the  "  bearing"  or 
"  taking  up  of  Tabernacles9  are  expressions  used 
metaphorically  in  Scripture  for  the  adoration  paid 
to  them,  yet  they  are  borrowed  from  a  practice, 
which  was  well  known  at  the  time,  of  carrying 
the  Tabernacle  upon  the  shoulders  of  men  from 
one  place  to  another.  Thus  the  Israelites  are 
said  to  have  "  borne99  and  to  "  take  up99  the 
"  Tabernacle  of  Moloch6.99  Such  portable  temples 
among  the  Antients  were  conveyed  with  them 
to  their  wars,  and  accompanied  them  upon  their 
travels.  This  was  the  constant  usage  of  the 
Arabians1 9  Egyptian?,  Trojan?,  Carthaginians10, 
and  German?1.  When  settlements  were  made, 
and  cities  built,  they  were  of  course  deposited 
in  safe  but  conspicuous  places ;  in  cavities 
fashioned  for  the  purpose,  within  the  rocks  on 


(5)  1  Sam.  c.  tI.  3,  7,  &c. 

(6)  Aww§,  c.  t.    Psalms,  &c 

(7)  See  the  authors  quoted  by  Hottinger,  Comp.  Theatri  Orient,  c.  i. 

(8)  ApuUius  Apol.  p.  60S. 

(9)  See  Servius  on  JSn.  tL  ver.  68.     Dio,  lib.  xl.    Herodian.  lib.  if. 
and  Amm.  MarceUinus,  lib.  xxii. 

(10)  See  Caimet's  Diet.  art.  Niches;  and  the  authors  referred  to  by 
Fabricius,  Bibliography  Ant.  c.  viii.  18. 

(11)  Tacit.de  Mor.  Germ. 


21B  AT  HSU  8. 

• 

chap,  which  their  citadels  stood ;  or  in  niches,  by  the 
vJ^Ls  side  of  their  most  frequented  roads.  Hitra, 
answering  to  this  description,  are  found,  at  this 
day,  in  all  countries  professing  the  Greek  and 
Raman- Catholic  religions;  before  which  votive 
gifts  are  placed,  as  in  former  ages:  and  this 
seems  sufficient  to  explain  the  sort  of  temples 
alluded  to  by  antient  authors,  as  being  here 
stationed  within  a  niche,  called  the  Cave  of 
Pan,  in  the  face  of  the  rock  below  the  Acropolis 
of  Athens.  Within  this  cave  there  formerly 
statue  of  stood  a  statue  of  the  goat-footed  God ;  who,  on 
that  account,  was  said  by  Euripides1,  and  by 
Lucian^j  to  have  fixed  his  residence  at  Athens, 
beneath  the  northern  or  Pelasgie  wall  of  the 
Acropolis :  and  it  is  rather  remarkable,  that  in 
a  garden  below  this  Grotto,  at  the  foot  of  the 
rock,  there  was  discovered  a  marble  statue  of 
Pan,  of  a  size  to  suit  the  cavity,  which  exactly 


(1)  Kp.  "Arovg  roimnr  oUrQa  KiKpowiag  virpac ; 

Upoofiojtpor  dvrpov,  &c  Macpdf  cueXjar  jfur. 
Up.  OW,  Ma  nav*£  &$vra,  cat  /8»/c*l  *iAa?. 
"Aadiigitar:  aaffeti  Ceerapiaa  rapes, 

Septentrionale  in  lit  antrum,  qaas  Haeraa  Yoeanaa?* 
44  Safe,  abi  est  saeeBum  Panis  at  aim  prope," 

Eunpid.inl<m.996.p.tt4.    XdU.Renm.    OmtaklSM. 

(*)  Kai  ra  «V  Imtirim,  t)v  vwi  rp  icporaAci  rr^Xiryya  rwfcrar 

awo\afi6§U9ocf  ouctl  fiucpbv  vir*  row  UtXturymv,  a.  r.  X. 

Acciuetus,  torn.  VII.  p.  SO.    Bipont.  1790. 


ATHENS.  219 

corresponds  with  the  description  of  the  antient  chap. 
image  in  the  Grotto,  bearing  a  trophy  upon  its 
head';  for  the  iron  cramp,  by  which  this 
burden  was  sustained  and  connected  with  the 
mass  of  marble  used  for  the  lower  part  of  the 
figure,  yet  remains.  We  saw  this  statue  upon 
the  spot  where  it  was  discovered ;  and  we 
removed  it  to  the  University  of  Cambridge, 
where  it  is  now  placed,  with  the  other  Greek 
Marbles,  in  the  Vestibule  of  the  University 
library4.  The  drapery  afforded  by  the  spoils 
of  a  goat  thrown  over  the  figure  is  executed 
in  the  very  antient  style  of  sculpture  called 
GtwohJEtruscan ;  and  there  is  great  reason  to 
believe  that  this  is  the  identical  statue  alluded 
to  by  Jjucian,  as  before  cited.  Not  far  from 
the  same  place  there  was  also  found  the  torso  of 
a  small  marble  statue  of  Apollo,  of  a  more  dimi- 
nutive size  than  that  of  Pan,  but  executed  in  a 
style  of  sculpture  equal  to  any  thing  produced 
in  the  most  splendid  aera  of  the  art.  This  we 
also  brought  to  England.    There  is  certainly 


(3)  iMrimn.  Deoram  Dialog),  nil.  3.  Pant*  et  MercwrU.  Btpont. 
1790. 

(4)  An  engrtYing  of  this  statue,  from  a  drawing  by  the  celebrated 
Flmxmun,  was  made  for  Mr.  Wilkins's  Antiquities  of  Magna  Qrmcia 
(p.  71).  For  a  further  account  of  it,  see  "Greek  MarbUs,"  p.  9. 
JT0.XL    Comb.  1800. 


220  ATHENS. 

chap,  something  singular  in  such  an  association  so 
near  to  the  Adytum,  said  to  be  tenanted  by  these 
two  Deities.  The  identity  of  the  Grotto  itself 
was  a  theme  of  dispute  among  earlier  travellers, 
who  gave  to  the  subject  more  consideration 
than  perhaps  it  may  seem  to  merit.  Guilletiere 
is  the  first  of  the  moderns  by  whom  it  is  noticed. 
He  had  been  with  his  companions  to  visit  the 
small  chapel  called  Panagia  Spiliotissa,  or  our 
Lady  of  the  Grotto,  in  a  hollow  of  the  rock  above 
the  Theatre  of  Bacchus,  at  the  south-east  angle 
of  the  Acropolis ;  which  a  Greek  spy,  a  native  of 
Candia,  had  pointed  out  to  the  Venetians  as  a 
proper  place  to  serve  as  a  mine  in  blowing  up 
the  citadel1.  Guilletiere  persuaded  himself  that 
the  Panagia  was  nothing  less  than  the  actual 
grotto  once  dedicated  to  Apollo  and  Pan,  which 
is  mentioned  by  Euripides  in  two  or  three  of  his 
tragedies2.  Seven  years  after  Guilletiere9*  visit, 
the  same  cavern  was  examined  by  Wheler  and 


(1)  Voyage  &' Athens  par  Sr  De  la  GuilUHere,  p.  18a    Paris,  1676. 

(2)  "  Des  que  nous  fasmes  sortls  de  Panagia,  j'obligeay  nos  gens 
a  toarner  la  teste  pour  y  regarder  avec  plus  d'attentioD,  parce  que  je 
les  fls  souvenir  que  c'estoit  la  eette  Oroite  si  c616bre  dans  1'antiqaite, 
&c.  Grace  a  la  darete*  da  rocher,  c'est  la  le  plus  entier  de  tons  les 
dittoes  monumens  qui  nous  sont  restez  de  l'ancienne  Athene*. 
Euripide  a  parte"  de  cet  antre,  en  deux  ou  trols  eudroits  de  sea  trajfetiea," 
Ibid.p.\19. 


ATHENS.  221 

by  Span;  both  of  whom  deny  that  it  was  the  chap. 
Grotto  of  Pan,  as  mentioned  by  Guilletiere ;  and 
they  place  the  real  Grotto  of  Pan  upon  the 
northern  side  of  the  Citadel,  beneath  the  Pdasgic 
Wall,  according  to  the  testimonies  of  Euripides 
and  of  Lucian3.  Chandler  afterwards  con- 
firmed their  observations4:  and  in  this  state 
the  question  now  rests;  no  one  having  since 
expressed  any  doubt  upon  the  subject. 

As  we  drew  near  to  the  present  entrance  of 
the  Citadel,  we  passed  before  the  facade  of  the 
Propyuea;  the  old  entrance  to  the  Acropolis 
between  its  Doric  pillars  being  walled  up.  The 
Turkish  guard  at  the  gate  suffered  us  to  pass, 
as  soon  as  we  mentioned  the  name  of  Lusieri ; 
and  one  of  them  offered  to  conduct  us  to  the  spot 
where  he  was  then  at  work.  We  found  him  in 
the  midst  of  the  ruins  of  the  Erectheum,  seated 
upon  a  heap  of  stones,  with  his  drawing  imple- 
ments before  him,  equally  surprised  and  delighted 
to  see  us  once  more,  and  in  such  a  place.  It 
happened  that  the  very  pencil  which   he   was 


(3)  Bwripid.  in  Ion.  vr.  17, 601, 036.  Lucian,  at  before  cited.  See 
WkeUr's  Journey  into  Greece,  p.  360.  LoruL  1682.  Also  Voyage  par 
Jatah  Span,  torn.  II.  p.  07.    a  la  Haye,  1724. 

(4)  Chandler's  Travels  in  Greece,  p.  50.     Oxford,  1776. 


222  ATHENS. 

chap,  then  using  was  one  of  several,  made  by 
Middleton,  which  the  author  had  conveyed  for 
him  from  England  to  Naples  many  years  before. 
He  had  only  two  remaining :  and  he  considered 
them  of  so  much  importance  to  the  perfection 
of  his  designs,  that  he  would  willingly  have 
purchased  more  at  an  equal  weight  of  gold; 
using  them  only  in  tracing  the  outline,  and  as 
sparingly  as  possible.  The  best  illustration  of 
his  remark  was  in  a  sight  of  the  outlines  he  had 
then  finished.  It  might  have  been  said  of  the 
time  he  had  spent  in  Athens,  as  of  Apblles, 
"  Nulla  dies  sine  lined  ;"  but  such  was  the  extra- 
ordinary skill  and  application  shewn  in  the 
designs  he  was  then  completing,  that  every 
grace  and  beauty  of  sculpture,  every  fair  and 
exquisite  proportion,  every  trace  of  the  injuries 
which  time  had  effected  upen  tfae  building, 
every  vein  in  the  marble,  were  visible  in  the 
drawing ;  and  in  such  perfection,  that  even  the 
nature  and  qualities  of  the  stone  itself  might  be 
recognised  in  the  contour1.     He  would  not  hear 


f  1)  Whoever  may  hereafter  he  the  possessor  of  these  Drawings,  will 
have  in  the  mere  outlines  (for  it  it  Impossible  this  artist  can  ever  finish 
the  collection  he  has  made)  a  representation  of  the  antiquities  and 
heantffol  scenery  of  Greece,  inferior  to  nothing  but  the  actual  tight  of 
them.    Hitherto  no  Mcecenas  has  dignified  himself  by    any   tiring 

deterring 


ATHENS.  223 

of  our  descending  again  from  the  Acropolis  chap. 
before  the  evening ;  but  gave  us  a  recom- 
mendation to  the  house  of  a  widow,  sister  of  the 
late  English  Consul,  where  he  said  we  might  be 
comfortably  lodged ;  and  to  which  he  promised 
to  conduct  us,  after  dining  with  him  and  the 
Disdar  or  Governor  of  the  Citadel,  in  the  midst 
of  the  splendid  remains  of  architecture  and 
sculpture  by  which  we  were  surrounded.  He 
became  our  guide  to  all  the  different  buildings ; 
and  began  by  shewing  us  the  Parthenon. 
Some  workmen,  employed  under  his  direction 
for  the  British  Ambassador,  were  then  engaged 
in  making  preparation,  by  means  of  ropes  and 
pulleys,  for  taking  down  the  metopes,  where  the 
sculpture  remained  the  most  perfect.  The 
Disdar  himself  came  to  view  the  work,  but  with 
evident  marks  of  dissatisfaction ;  and  Lusierx 
told  us  that  it  was  with  great  difficulty  he 
could  accomplish  this  part  of  his  undertaking, 
from  the  attachment  the  Turks  entertained 
towards     a     building    which    they    had    been 


deterring  the  title  of  a  patron  of  such  excellence.  Many  ha?e  bought 
hfe  designs  when  he  could  be  induced  to  part  with  them,  bj  which 
mm  he  haa  bare!  j  obtained  subsistence ;  and  he  is  too  passionately 
attached  to  the  sources  which  Athens  has  afforded  to  hit  genius,  to 
Grtte*,  even  for  the  neglect  which,  in  bis  letters  to  the  author, 
ipkina  of  having  there  experienced. 


224  ATHENS. 

chap,  accustomed  to  regard  with  religious  venera 
and  had  converted  into  a  mosque.  We 
fessed  that  we  participated  the  Moslem  fee 
in  this  instance,  and  would  gladly  see  an  o 
enforced  to  preserve  rather  than  to  dee 
such  a  glorious  edifice.  After  a  short  1 
spent  in  examining  the  several  parts  of 
temple,  one  of  the  workmen  came  to  inl 
Don  Battista  that  they  were  then  going  to  1< 
one  of  the  metopes.  We  saw  this  fine  piec 
sculpture  raised  from  its  station  between 
triglyphs :  but  the  workmen  endeavourin; 
give  it  a  position  adapted  to  the  projected 
of  descent,  a  part  of  the  adjoining  masonry 
loosened  by  the  machinery ;  and  down  c 
the  fine  masses  of  Pentelican  marble,  scatte 
their  white  fragments  with  thundering  i 
among  the  ruins.  The  Disdar,  seeing 
could  no  longer  restrain  his  emotions ; 
actually  took  his  pipe  from  his  mouth,  ; 
letting  fall  a  tear,  said,  in  a  most  emphai 
tone  of  voice,  "  TiXog  V9  positively  declai 
that  nothing  should  induce  him  to  consen 
any     further     dilapidation    of    the    buildi 


(1)  This  man  was,  however,  poor,  and  had  a  family  to  so] 
consequently,  he  was  omble  to  withstand  the  temptations  wl 
little  money,  accompanied  by  splendid  promises,  offered  to  the  i 
sities  of  his  situation.    So  far  from  adhering  to  his  resolution,  I 

aftei 


ATHENS.  225 


Looking  up,  we  saw  with  regret  the  gap  that   chap 
had  been  made j  which  all  the  ambassadors  of 


•towards  gradually  prevailed  upon  to  allow  all  the  finest  pieces  of 
•eslpture  belonging  to  the  Parthenon  to  be  taken  down  ;  and  succeed- 
ing travellers  speak  with  concern  of  the  injuries  the  building  has 
•■Waed,  exclusively  of  the  loss  caused  by  the  removal  of  the  metopes. 
One  example  of  this  nature  may  be  mentioned;  which,  while  it  shews 
tta  havoc  that  has  been  carried  on,  will  also  prove  the  want  of  taste 
aid  attar  barbarism  of  the  undertaking.  In  one  of  the  angles  of  the 
pediment  which  was  over  the  eastern  facade  of  the  temple,  there  was 
ft  tone's  head,  supposed  to  be  intended  for  the  horse  of  Neptune 
tang  from  the  earth,  when  struck  by  his  trident,  during  his  alterca- 
ti*  with  Minerva  for  the  possession  of  Attica,  The  head  of  this 
•ninal  had  been  so  judiciously  placed  by  Phidias,  that,  to  a  spectator 
Wow,  it  seemed  to  be  rising  from  an  abyss,  foaming,  and  struggling 
tsbont  from  its  confined  situation,  with  a  degree  of  energy  suited  to 
A*  greatness  and  dignity  of  its  character.  All  the  perspective  of  the 
**Jp<*r*if  such  an  expression  be  admissible),  and  certainly  ail  the 
touony  and  fitness  of  its  proportions,  and  all  the  effect  of  attitude  and 
tat  of  composition,  depended  upon  the  work  being  viewed  precisely 
ftt  the  distance  in  which  Phidias  designed  that  it  should  be  seen.  Its 
ft&oval,  therefore,  from  its  situation,  amounted  to  nothing  less  than 
fa  destruction  :  —  take  it  down,  and  all  the  aim  of  the  sculptor  is  in- 
tutly  frustrated !  Could  any  one  believe  that  this  was  actually  done  ? 
ft**  that  it  was  done,  too,  in  the  name  of  a  nation  vain  of  its  distinc- 
tfo  in  the  Fine  Arts  ?  Nay  more,  that  in  doing  this,  floding  the 
r*»otil  of  this  piece  of  sculpture  could  not  be  effected  without  destroy - 
%  the  entire  angle  of  the  pediment,  the  work  of  destruction  was 
•flowed  to  proceed  even  to  this  extent  also  ?  Thus  the  form  of  the 
fcftple  hae  sustained  a  greater  injury  than  it  had  already  experienced 
fa& the  Venetian  artillery;  and  the  horses  head  -has  been  removed, 
to k placed  where  it  exhibits  nothing  of  its  original  effect:  like  the 
>ctyuiition  said  to  have  been  made  by  another  Nobleman,  who,  being 
kttghted  at  a  puppet-show,  bought  Punch,  und  was  chagrined  to  find 
*toa  he  carried  him  home,  that  the  figure  had  lost  all  its  humour. 

Yet 

VOL.    VI.  Q 


226  ATHENS. 

chap,  the  earth,  with  all  the  sovereigns  they  represent 
aided  by  every  resource  that  wealth  and  talen 
can  now  bestow,  will  never  again  repair.  A 
to  our  friend  Lvsieri,  it  is  hardly  necessary  t 
exculpate  him  ;  because  he  could  only  obey  th 
orders  he  had  received,  and  this  he  did  wit 
manifest  reluctance  :  neither  was  there  a  work 
man  employed  in  the  undertaking,  among  th 
artists  sent  out  of  Borne  for  that  purpose,  wh 
did  not  express  his  concern  that  such  havo 
should  be  deemed  necessary,  after  moulds  an 


Tet  we  are  seriously  told,  (Memorandum,  p.  8.  Land.  1811,)  that  tl 
mischief  bat  been  done  with  a  view  to  "  rescue  these  specimens 
sculpture  from  impending  rain:"  then,  why  not  exert  the  same  raft 
ence  which  was  employed  in  removing  them,  to  induce  the  Tvrti 
Government  to  adopt  measures  for  their  effectual  preservation!  J 
no !  a  wiser  scheme  was  in  agitation :  it  was  at  first  attempted  to  ha 
them  all  mended  by  some  modern  artist ! ! !  (See  Mentor,  p.  39.)  Fro 
this  calamity  they  were  rescued  by  the  good  taste  of  Canova.  (Ikk 
The  sight  of  them  (Mernor.  p.  42.)  "  so  ri vetted  and  agitated  tl 
feelings  of  Mrs.  Siddons,  the  pride  of  theatrical  representation,  as  a 
tsally  to  draw  tears  from  her  eyes."  And  who  marvels  at  s» 
emotion  ?  , 

"  Cold  is  the  heart,  (air  Greece !  that  looks  on  thee. 

Nor  feels  as  lovers  o'er  the  dust  they  lov'd ; 

Dull  is  the  eye  that  will  not  weep  to  see 

Thy  walls  defac'd,  thy  mouldering  shrines  remov'd 

By  British  hands,  which  it  had  best  behov'd 

To  guard  those  relics — ne'er  to  be  restor'd. 

Curst  be  the  hour  when  from  their  isle  they  rov'd, 

And  once  again  thy  hapless  bosom  gor'd. 
And  snatch'd  thy  shrinking  Gods  to  Northern  climes  abhorr'd  " 

ChUde  Harold's  Pilgrimage,  Canto  II.  15.    LondL  181?- 


ATHENS.  227 

casts  had  been  already  made  of  all  the  sculpture  chap. 
which  it  was  designed  to  remove.  The  author  ^-y^/ 
would  gladly  have  avoided  the  introduction  of 
this  subject;  but  as  he  was  an  eye-witness  of 
these  proceedings,  it  constitutes  a  part  of  the  du- 
ties he  has  to  fulfil  in  giving  the  narrative  of  his 
travels ;  and  if  his  work  be  destined  to  survive 
him,  it  shall  not,  by  its  taciturnity  with  regard 
to  the  spoliation  of  the  Athenian  temples,  seem 
to  indicate  any  thing  like  an  approval  of  the 
measures  which  have  tended  so  materially 
towards  their  destruction. 

To  a  person  who  has  seen  the  ruins  of  Home.  Compari- 

*  '  sod   ba- 

the first  suggestion  made  by  the  sight  of  the  build-  ***** the 

ings  in  the  Acropolis  is  that  of  the  infinite  supe-  and  Roman 

.  r  r       Buildings. 

nority  of  the  Athenian  architecture.  It  possesses 
the  greatness  and  majesty  of  the  Egyptian,  or 
of  the  antient  Etruscan  style,  with  all  the  ele- 
gant proportions,  the  rich  ornaments,  and  the 
discriminating  taste  of  the  most  splendid  sera 
of  the  Arts.  "Accustomed  as  we  were/'  said 
Stuart1 9  in  speaking  of  the  Parthenon,  "to  the 
antient  and  modern  magnificence  of  Rome,  and, 
by  what   we  had   heard   and   read,   impressed 


(I)  Antiquities  olAthmt,  vol.  II.  p.  0.     Lond.  1787. 

Q   2 


230  ATHENS. 

chap,  harmony,  elegance,  execution,  beauty, proportion, 
the  Parthenon  stands  a  chef-(Fceuvre ;  every 
portion  of  the  sculpture  by  which  it  is  so  highly 
decorated  has  all  the  delicacy  of  a  camio :  but 
still  there  are  faults  in  the  building,  and  proofs 
of  negligence,  which  are  not  found  in  the  tem- 
ples of  Ptestum ;  and  these  Lusieri  considered  as 
striking  evidences  of  the  state  of  public  morals 
in  the  gay  days  of  Pericles ;  for  he  said  it  was 
evident  that  he  had  been  cheated  by  his  work- 
men. He  pointed  those  defects  out  to  us. 
Above  the  architrave,  behind  the  metopes  and 
triglyphs,  there  are  vacuities  sufficiently  spa- 
cious for  a  person  to  walk  in,  which,  in  some 
instances,  and  perhaps  in  all,  had  been  care- 
lessly filled  with  loose  materials  ;  but  at  Pcestxtm, 
the  same  parts  of  the  work  are  of  solid  stone, 
particularly  near  the  angles  of  those  temples; 
which  consist  of  such  prodigious  masses,  that 
it  is  inconceivable  how  they  were  raised  and 
adjusted.  In  other  parts  of  the  Parthenon  there 
are  also  superfluities ;  which  are  unknown  in 
the  buildings  of  Pastum,  where  nothing  super- 
fluous can  be  discerned.  These  remarks,  as 
they  were  made  by  an  intelligent  artist,  who, 
with  leisure  and  abilities  for  the  inquiry,  has 
paid  more  attention  to  the  subject  than  any  one 


IV. 


ATHENS.  231 

else,  we  have  been  careful  to  preserve.  For  chap. 
our  own  parts,  in  viewing  the  Parthenon,  we 
were  so  much  affected  by  its  solemn  appear- 
ance, and  so  much  dazzled  by  its  general 
splendour  and  magnificence,  that  we  should 
never  have  ventured  this  critical  examination  of 
the  parts  composing  it  ;  nor  could  we  be  per- 
suaded entirely  to  acquiesce  in  the  opinion 
thus  founded  upon  a  comparison  of  it  with  the 
Posidonian  and  JEginetan  buildings.  Often  as 
it  has  been  described,  the  spectator  who  for 
the  first  time  approaches  it  finds  that  nothing 
he  has  read  can  give  any  idea  of  the  effect 
produced  in  beholding  it.  Yet  was  there  once 
found  in  England  a  writer  of  eminence,  in  his 
profession  as  an  architect1,  who  recommended 
the  study  of  Raman  antiquities  in  Italy  and  in 
France,  in  preference  to  the  remains  of  Grecian 
architecture  in  Athens  ;  and  who,  deciding 
upon  the  works  of  Phidias,  Callicrates,  and  Ictinus, 
without  ever  having  had  an  opportunity  to 
examine  them  but  in  books  and  prints,  ventured 


(1)  See  a  Treatise  on  the  Decorative  Part  of  Civil  Architecture,  by 
Sir  William  Chambers,  pp.  19, 21,  &c.  Third  edition.  LontL  1791.— 
Alto  Beveley't  Reply,  in  his  Pref.  to  the  Third  Volume  of  Stuart's  Antiq. 
at  Athens,  p.  10.     Lond.  1794. 


232  ATHENS. 

chap,  to  maintain  that  the  Parthenon  was  not  so 
«•  ■  /_-  considerable  an  edifice  as  the  Church  of  St. 
Martin  m  London;  thereby  affording  a  remark- 
able proof  of  the  impossibility  of  obtaining  from 
any  written  description,  or  even  from  engraved 
representation,  any  adequate  idea  of  the  build- 
ings of  Antient  Greece;  compared  with  whose 
stupendous  works,  the  puny  efforts  of  modern 
art  are  but  as  the  labours  of  children. 

By  means  of  the  scaffolds  raised  against  the 

Parthenon,  for  the  Formatori,  and  for  other  artists 

who  were  engaged    in   moulding  and   making 

drawings  from  the  sculpture    upon   the   frieze, 

we  were  enabled  to   ascend    to   all  the  higher 

parts  of  the  building,  and  to  examine,  with  the 

minutest   attention,   all  the  ornaments   of  this 

glorious  edifice.     The  sculpture  on  the  metopes, 

representing  the  Combats  of  the    Centaurs  and 

LapithcBy  is  in  such  bold  relief,  that  the  figures 

are  all  of  them  statues.     Upon  coming  close  to 

Caoie  of    the  work,  and  examining  the  state  of  the  marble, 

riei  suiT  it  was  evident  that  a  very   principal  cause  of 

Se  scalp-  the  injuries  it  bad  sustained  was  owing,  not,  as 

p^the^. i4  has  been  asserted1,  to  "  the  zeal  of  the  early 

(1)  Memorandum  on  the  subject  of  the  Earl  of  Elgin's  PamiHi 
in  Greece,  p.  1 1.    Land.  181 1 . 


ATHENS.  233 

Christian*,  the  barbarism  of  the  Turks,  or  to    chap. 

IV. 

the  explosions  which  took  place  when  the 
temple  was  used  as  a  powder  magazine,"  but 
to  the  decomposition  of  the  stone  itself,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  action  of  the  atmosphere  during 
so  many  ages.  The  mischief  has  originated  in 
the  sort  of  marble  which  was  used  for  the 
building  ;  this,  not  being  entirely  homogeneous, 
is  characterized  by  a  tendency  to  exfoliate 
when  long  exposed  to  air  and  moisture.  Any 
person  may  be  convinced  of  this,  who  will  exa- 
mine the  specimens  of  sculpture  which  have 
been  since  removed  to  this  country  from  the 
Parthenon;  although,  being  expressly  selected 
as  the  most  perfect  examples  of  the  work,  they 
do  not  exhibit  this  decomposition  so  visibly  as 
the  remaining    parts    of    the   building.      But 

(3)  In  the  little  Tract  which  the  author  published  in  1803,  con- 
taining the  "  Testimonies  of  different  Authors  respecting  the   Statue 
tf  Ceres/'  p.  4,  and  also  in  his  Account  of  the  "  Cambridge  Marbles," 
Published  in  1809,  p.  15.  he  attributed  to  "  the  zeal  qfthe  early  Chris- 
Hans*  a  part  of  the  injury  done  to  the  Temple  at  Eleusis.     He  has 
tee  been  much  amused  by  finding  the  same  expression  adopted  by 
file  writer  of  the  Earl  of  Elgin's  "  Memorandum"  above  cited,  where 
the  u early  Christians"  are  made  also  responsible  for  the  injury  done 
to  the  metopes  of  the  Parthenon  (See  Memorandum,  p.  11).    Now, 
abating  the  long  arms,  or  the  long  ladder*,  which  the  said  Christians 
most  hare  called  into  action  to  reach  the  entablature  of  this  building, 
it  does  not  appear  highly  probable  that  the  very  people  who  conse- 
crated the  Parthenon,  as  Wheler  says,  "  to  serve  God  in,"  would 
take  so  much  pains  to  disfigure  and  to  destroy  their  place  of  worship. 


234  ATHENS. 

chap,  throughout  the  metopes,  and  in  all  the  exquisite 
sculpture  of  the  frieze  which  surrounded  the 
outside  of  the  cell  of  the  temple,  this  may  be 
observed  :  a  person  putting  his  hand  behind 
the  figures,  or  upon  the  plinth,  where  the  parts 
have  been  less  exposed  to  the  atmosphere,  may 
perceive  the  polished  surface,  as  it  was  left 
when  the  work  was  finished,  still  preserving  a 
high  degree  of  smoothness;  but  the  exterior 
parts  of  the  stone  have  been  altered  by  wea- 
thering ;  and  where  veins  of  schistus  in  the 
marble  have  been  affected  by  decomposition, 
considerable  parts  have  fallen  off.  Yet,  to  ope- 
rate an  effect  of  this  nature,  it  required  the 
lapse  of  twenty-three  centuries  ;  and  we  may 
fairly  conclude  that  what  remained  had  under- 
gone sufficient  trial  to  have  continued  unaltered 
for  a  series  of  ages :  at  all  events,  it  would  have 
been  safe  from  the  injuries  to  which  the  finest 
parts  of  the  sculpture  have  been  since  so 
lamentably  exposed,  when  they  were  torn  from 
the  temple,  either  to  be  swallowed  by  the  waves 
of  Cythera,  or  to  moulder  under  the  influence  of 
a  climate  peculiarly  qualified  to  assist  their  pro- 
gress towards  destruction1. 

(1)  "  The  Ambassador  has  carried  off  every  rich  morsel  of  sculpture 
that  was  to  be  found  in  the  Parthenon :  so  that  he,  in  future,  who 
wishes  to  see  Athens,  must  make  a  journey  to  Scotland.**  Colonel 
Squire's  MS.  Correspondence. 


ATHENS.  235 

It  is  with  reluctance  that  the  author  omits  a   chap. 

iv. 

description  of  the  whole  of  the  sculpture  upon 


the  frieze  beneath  the  ceiling  of  the  Peripterus*. 
To  an  artist,  the  boldness  and  masterly  execu-  splendid 
tkm  of  the  metopes  may  be  more  interesting ;  but  f*$™™' 
a  sight  of  the  splendid  solemnity  of  the  whole  )j£#l^r" 
Panathenaic  Festival,  represented   by  the  best 
artists  of  Antient  Greece,  in  one  continued  pic- 
ture above  three  feet  in  height,  and  originally 
six  hundred  feet  in  length,  of  which  a  very  con- 
siderable  portion  now  remains,  is  alone  worth 
a  journey  to  Athens  ;  nor  will  any  scholar  deem 
the  undertaking  to  be  unprofitable,  who  should 
▼isit  Greece  for  this  alone.     The  whole  popula-  j^tf- 
tkra  of  the  antient  city,  animated  by  the   bustle  ^°r£f  tbe 
and  business  of  the  Panathenaa,  seems  to  be 
exhibited  by  this  admirable  work  ;  persons  of 
other  sex  and  of  every  age,  priests,  charioteers, 
horsemen,    cattle,     victors,     youths,    maidens, 
▼ictims,    gods,  and   heroes,  all   enter  into   the 
procession  ;    every   countenance   expresses   the 
earnestness  and  greatness  of  the  occasion ;  and 
every  magnificence  of  costume,  and  varied  dis- 
position of  the  subject,  add  to  the  effect  of  the 
representation.     It  is  somewhere  said  of  Phidias, 


(2)  For  a  fall  a  count  of  it,  sec  Stuarfs  Athens,  vol.  II.  p.  12. 
Land,  1787. 


236  ATHENS*. 

chap,  that,  as  a  sculptor,  he  particularly  excelled  in 
^v^  his  statues  of  horses :  perhaps  some  notion  may 
be  conceived  of  the  magic  of  his  art,  when  it  is 
related,  that  of  a  hundred  horses  introduced  by 
him  into  the  Panathenaic  pomp,  there  are  not 
two,  either  in  the  same  attitude,  or  which  are 
not  characterized  by  a  marked  difference  of 
expression.  Some  circumstances  were  made 
known  to  us  by  our  being  able  to  examine  the 
marble  closely,  which  we  did  not  know  before ; 
although  they  had  been  alluded  to  by  Stuart1: 
the  bridles  of  the  horses  were  originally  of 
gilded  bronze ;  this  we  perceived  by  the  holes 
left  in  the  stone  for  affixing  the  metal,  and  also 
by  little  bits  of  the  bronze  itself,  which  the  Forma* 

tothfrnus- tor*  ^a(i  found  in  the  work.  We  should  hardly 
have  believed  that  such  an  article  of  dress  as 
the  leathern  boot,  with  its  top  turned  over  the 
calf  of  the  leg,  was  worn  by  the  antient  Athe- 
nian, as  well  as  by  English  cavaliers,  if  we  had 
.  not  seen  the  Cothurnus  so  represented  upon 
the  figures  of  some  of  the  young  horsemen  in 
this  procession  ;  and  as  coxcomically  adapted 
to  the  shape  of  the  leg,  and  set  off  with  as  great 
nicety,  as  for  a  Newmarket  jockey.  Another 
singular   piece   of  foppery,   worn   also   by  the 

(I)  Antiq.  of  Athens,  vol.  II.  p.  14.    Loud.  1787. 


ATHENS.  237 

Athenian  beaux,  consisted  of  a  light  gipsey  hat,  chap. 
perhaps  made   of   straw,    tied   with    ribbands  ^^ 
under  the  chin.     We   noticed  the  figure  of  a  *nd  p<£?" 

O  SU8  OP  r%~ 

young  horseman  with  one  of  these  hats,  who****- 
seemed,  from  his  appearance  in  the  procession, 
to  be  a  person  of  distinction,  curbing  a  galloping 
•teed  ;  but  the  wind  had  blown  the  hat  from  his 
head,  and,  being  held   by  the  ribbands  about 
the  neck,  it  hung  behind  the  rider,  as  if  floating 
in  the  air :  the  sculptor  having  evidently  availed 
himself  of  this  representation  to  heighten  the 
appearance  of  action  in  the  groupe,  and  nothing 
could  be  more  spirited.     That  this  kind  of  hat 
was  considered  as  a  mark  of  distinction,  seems 
to  be   probable,   from   the  circumstance  of  its 
being  still  worn  by  the  Patriarchs  of  the  Greek 
church*:  it  appears  upon  the  head  of  the  Patri- 
arch of  Constantinople,  as  he  is  represented  by  a 
wood-cut  in  the  work  of  Martin  Crusius* ;  but 
perhaps,   in  the  latter  instance,   it  should  rather 
be  considered  as  the  petasus*,  than  the  pileus. 
Also,    by    attending    to    its    appearance    upon 
Grecian  vases  of  terra  cotta,  we  may  perceive 
that  it  was  worn  by  no   common   individuals. 


(*)  See  Vol.  I.  of  these  Travels,  Chap.  IX.  p.  194.    Octavo  edition. 
0)  Twrco-Grmcio,  p.  106.    Basil,  1683. 
<*)  Vid.  Lipsiusde  Amphitheat.  c  10. 


238  ATHENS. 

chap.   A  beautiful  figure  of  Act(eon9  with  this  kind  of 

TV 

hat,  is  preserved  upon  one  of  the  Greek  Marbles 
in  the  University  Library  at  Cambridge:  and 
another  representation  of  the  same  person, 
similarly  attired,  appears  upon  the  Neapolitan 
Vase*,  where  there  is  also  an  effigy  of  Castor 
with  the  pileus  upon  his  head  ;  for  Actceon,  in 
both  instances,  is  figured  with  his  head  tin- 
covered,  the  hat  hanging,  by  its  ribbands,  in 
graceful  negligence  behind  his  shoulders ;  and 
after  this  manner  it  is  more  frequently  repre- 
sented. Among  the  Romans,  who  rarely  used 
any  covering  for  the  head,  the  pileus,  when 
worn,  was  the  distinguishing  badge  of  freed- 
men ;  and  the  use  of  it,  as  a  privilege,  was 
granted  to  persons  who  had  obtained  their 
liberty.  In  the  Heroic  age  no  kind  of  hats 
were  worn,  if  we  may  judge  from  the  Poems  of 
Homer,  where  there  is  no  allusion  to  any  such 
article  of  apparel.  Indeed,  Eustathhis  affirms 
that  the  Romans  derived  their  custom  of  going 


(1)  This  marble  represents  the  body  of  an  Amphora,  about  three 
feet  in  length,  from  the  shore  of  the  PropontU.  It  was  presented 
to  the  University  by  Mr.  Spencer  Smith,  late  Minister  Plenipotentiary 
at  the  Ottoman  Porte,  and  brother  of  Sir  Sidney  Smith.  The  sculp- 
ture is  in  low  relief,  but  it  is  very  antient. 

(2)  Now  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Edioards,  of  Harrow,  late  book- 
seller in  Pall  Mall,  London. 


ATHEVS.  239 

bareheaded  firom  the  Greek?:  hence  it  may  CF/P* 
almost  be  proved,  that  in  this  bas-relief,  (as  >— -v-^ 
nothing  was  ever  introduced  by  antient  artists 
into  their  designs  without  some  symbolic  allu- 
sion,) the  hat  was  intended  as  a  distinguishing 
token4;  and  its  appearance  is  the  more  inter- 
esting, because  it  has  been  the  opinion  of  anti- 
quaries that  this  frieze  contained  the  portraits 
of  the  leading  characters  at  Athens,  during  the 
Pelopannesian  war;  particularly  of  Pericles,  Phi- 
dku,  Socrates,  and  Alcibiade&. 

We   saw  with   the  same   advantage    all   the  Practice  of 
remaining    sculpture    of    this    stately    edifice ;  Rioting 
visiting  it  often  afterwards  to  examine  the  dif-  -, 
ferent  parts  more  leisurely.     Among  the  remains 
of  the  sculpture  iu  the  western  pediment,  which 
is    in    a  very    ruined    state,    the    artists    had 
observed,    not   only   the    traces  of  paint   with 
which  the  statues  had  antiently  been  covered, 
but  also  of  gilding.     It  was  usual  to  gild  the 

(3)  Vid.  Eustath.  in  Homer.  Odyss.  lib.  i. 

(4)  It  to  still  bo  considered  at  Athens.  Guiiletiere,  in  giving  an 
account  of  the  Veechiados  or  Elders,  selected  out  of  the  principal 
Christian  families,  forming  a  part  of  the  jurisdiction  of  the  city,  says 
they  are  distinguished  from  the  other  citizens  by  wearing  "  little 
hats*9  These  are  his  words :— °  Let  Veechiados  portent  de petiis  cha- 
peaux,  pour  Us  distinguer  des  autres  habitant"  Voyage  d?Ath£nest 
p.  159.     Porif,  1676. 

(6)  See  Memorandum  on  the  subject  of  the  Earl  of  Elgin's  Pursuits 
in  Greece,  p.  12.    Land.  1811. 


240  ATHENS. 

chap,  hair  of  the  statues  which  represented  Deities, 
v^v^w/  and  sometimes  other  parts  of  the  bodies.  This 
practice  remained  to  a  very  late  period  of  the 
art,  as  it  has  been  already  shewn  in  a  former 
part  of  this  work1.  During  an  excavation 
which  Lusieri  had  carried  on  here,  he  had  dis- 
covered the  antient  pavement,  in  its  entire 
state ;  consisting  of  the  same  white  marble  as 
the  temple.  We  found  an  Inscription,  which 
proves  how  antient  the  custom  was  of  pro- 
nouncing the  Greek  B  like  the  Raman  V,  by  the 
manner  of  writing  a  name  which  must  have 
been    their    Victorinus :    "  Phaneas,     Hiero- 

PHANT,    SON    OF   VlCTORINUS." 

♦AN€  IACTHCBIKTo>P€  I 
NOY|€  PO*ANTHC 

Marbles     Among  the  ruins  of  this  and  of  other  buildings 

useil  Id  the  .  .  .  ° 

Acropolis,  in  the  Acropolis,  we  noticed  the  fragments  of 
almost  every  kind  of  marble,  and  of  the  most 
beautiful  varieties  of  breccia  ;  but  particularly  of 
the  verd-antique,  entire  columns  of  which  had 
once  adorned  the  Erectheum.  Under  a  heap  of 
loose  stones  and  rubbish  in  the  centre  of  it,  we 
discovered  the  broken  shaft  of  a  verd-anHgwp 
pillar  of  uncommon  beauty :  this  we  purchased 
of  the  Disdar ;  and  having  with  great  difficnlftk 

— — - — ■ i    i 

(1)  See  Vol.  V.  Chap.  IV.  p.  805  of  the  8vo.  Edition  oTUcm  *m 


removed    it    from  the  Aeropo&r  »f    sen:  r.  w   "Xat. 
England*.      A  bluish-grey  limestone    was    bjsd  .*--.•-•»• 
used  in  some  of  the  works :  particular!  y  in  the 
ezqaisite  ornaments   of  the    ErecLhiiem.  where  «npu«- 
the  frieze  of  the  temple  and  of  its  porticoes  are  t™.  a*t* 
not  of  marble,  like  the  reft  of  the  building,  bat 
of  this  sort  of  slate-like   limestone :    the    tym- 
panum of  the  pediment  is  likewise  of  the  same 
stone  ;     a    singular    circumstance    truly,    and 
requiring  some  explanation*.     It  resembles  the 
limestone  employed  in  the  walls  of  the  Cella  of 
the  Temple  of  Ceres  at  EUusu,  and  in  buildings 
before  the  use  of  marble  was  known  for  pur* 
poses  of  architecture  ;   such,    for   example,   as 
the  sort   of  stone   employed  in  the  Temple  of 
Apollo  at  Phigalia*,  and  in  other  edifices  of  equal 
antiquity  :    it  effervesces    briskly  in  acids,  and 
has  all  the  properties  of  common  compact  lime- 
stone ;  except  that  it  is  bard  enough  to  cut  glass, 


(S)  It  ia  now  Id  the  Vcallbulo  of  the  Unlrenitj  Library  at  Cambridge. 
See  "  Greek  Harblea,-  No.  XVII.  p.  SS.    Comb.  1809. 

(S)  For  thla  fact  tbe  anthor  ii  indebted  to  Mr.  WiObu,  author  of 
taftAaUqaUleaof  WafM  Qrmda,**. 

(4)  Specimen-  of  thla  alata-lDu  H-M-tfaa  -ma  brooght  to  the 
lather  for  the  Hlneralogica!  Lecture  at  Cambriilgr,  from  tbe  Temple 
af  the  PUffaUan  Apollo  In  the  Morea,  l\  Mr.Walpolr.  Ilk  alio fouii'l 
apo*  ParaaMnu, and  in  other  parts  of  Grttei  t  <\>.  -i.  , .. 
of  ppnunu  bteakiw  t!i  a  -oucho'idal  fraol  ugh  <„ 


242  ATHENS. 

ci*ap-    and,  of  course,  is  susceptible  of  a  fine  polish ; 

^^^^  exhibiting  a  flat  conchoidal  fracture,  which  is 
somewhat  splintery.  We  could  not  discover  a 
single  fragment  of  porphyry ;  which  isremarkable, 
as  this  substance  was  almost  always  used  by 
the  Antients  in  works  of  great  magnificence. 
Among  the  loose  fragments  dispersed  in  the 
Acropolis,  we  found  a  small  piece  of  marble 
with  an  inscription,  but  in  so  imperfect  a  state, 
that  it  is  only  worth  notice  as  a  memorial  of  the 
place  where  it  was  found,  and  in  its  allusion  to 

of  the  Pry-  the  Prytanhim^  which  is  the  only  legible  part  of 
n  um.      .^     rji^  ^  Prytantum,  where  the  written  laws 

of  Solon  were  kept2,  was  not  situate  near  to 
the  spot,  but  in  the  lower  city,  may  be  easily 
proved.  Yet  some  have  believed  that  it  was  in 
the  Acropolis ;  owing  to  that  remarkable  passage 
in  Pausanias,  which  set  at  rest  the  mistaken 
opinion  of  Ptolemy's  importation  of  the  worship 
of  Serapis  into  Egypt  ;  Memphis  having  been 
the  original  source  of  this  superstition,  both  for 
the    Alexandrians  and  the   Athenians?.      After 


(1)  Now  in  the  Vestibule  at  Cambridge.     See  "  Greek  Marfakf," 
No.  XXX.  p.  62.     Camb.  1809. 

(2)  U\ri<jlov  &  IJpvraviUv  forty,  kv  <f  vdpot  n  oi  SAwvoc  ****  7*" 
ypappivoi.    Pau#onue,  lib.  Lc  18.  p.  41.    Lips.  1606. 

(3)  See  Vol.  V.  of  these  Travels,  Chap.  VI 1.  p.  368.  (Note**.  OetatP 
edition. 


ATHENS.  243 

speaking  of  the  Prytaneum,  Pausanias  says4,  c^p- 
••  Hence,  to  those  going  towards  the  lower  parts  v^v^ 
of  the  city,  the  Temple  of  Serapis  presents  itself, 
whose  worship  the  Athenians  received  from 
Ptolemy:9''  adding,  "  Among  the  Egyptian  fanes 
of  this  Deity,  the  most  renovmed,  indeed,  is  that 
of  Alexandria,  but  the  most  antient  that  of 
Memphis."  But,  in  answer  to  this,  it  may 
be  observed,  that  the  same  author  also  ascends 
from  the  Prytanbum,  along  the  street  of  the  Tri- 
pods, towards  the  Propylcea*.  Moreover,  it  is  re- 
corded, that  the  tablets  of  the  laws  which  had 
been  preserved  in  the  Citadel  were  afterwards 
removed  to  the  Pry  tanSum6 ;  and  they  were  termed 
rowc  KarwOev  vo/iovc,  because  they  were  kept  in  the 
lower  city. 

With  regard   to   the   Erectheum,   which   is  ErecMum. 
situate  at  the  distance  of  about  a  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  to  the  north  of  the  Parthenon^  it  has 
generally  been  described  as  consisting  of  three 


(4)  'EimvOtv  ioixriv  ig  rd  kclt*  rfc  xo\t  «c,  Zap  aw  it  6^  ianv  Upbv, 
*9  'A0ijrauw  xapd  TlroXtpaiov  Qi6v  iotiyayovro.  AlyvxriotQ  U  Upd 
IfawtotolnfarkaraTOv  fuv  lartp  'A\iKavtytv<riv,  ApxaiSrarov  $k  ir 
Mfftfci.     PtfiiMfit*,  lib.  i.c.  18.  p.  42.     Lips.  1606. 

(&)*E*rt  ii  oioQ  dxo  tov  Upvravtinv  caXovpci'if  Tptjradfg.  PattMit. 
lihuL  c.  SO.  p.  46.     Lip*.  1606. 

(6)  Jul.  Pollux,  lib.  viii.  c.  10.     Am$t.  1706. 

r  2 


244  ATHENS. 

chap,  contiguous  temples;  that  ofErectheus,  of  Minerva 
v-^y-w  Polios,  and  of  Pandrosus.    Stuart  considered  the 
eastern  part  of  the  building  alone  as  being  the 
JErectheum ;    the   part  to  the  westward  as  that 
of  Minerva;  and  the  adjoining  edifice  on  the  south 
side,  distinguished  by  the  Caryatides  supporting 
the  entablature  and  roof,   as  the  chapel  which 
was  dedicated  to  the  Nymph  Pandrosus1.     This 
opinion  has  been  adopted  by  other  writers2:  but 
it  seems  more  consistent  with  the  description 
and  allusions  to  this  building  in  the  works  of 
antient  authors,  to  suppose  that  the  whole  struc- 
ture was  called  Erectheum,  consisting  only  of 
of  Pandro- tw0  contiguous  temples ;  that  of  Minerva  Polios, 
™inerva    w^  *ts  Port*co  towards  the  east ;  and   that  of 
Poiioi.      Pandrosus  towards  the  west,  with  its  two  porti- 
coes standing  by  the  north  and  south  angles,  the 
entrance  to  the  Pandroseum  being  on  the  northern 
side8.        PausaniasA  calls   the    whole    building 
EPEX9EI0N,  and  he  decidedly  describes  it,  not 


(1 )  Antiq.  of  Athens,  vol.  II.  chap.  2.  p.  16.    Lond.  1787. 

(2)  "  Near  the  Parthenon  are  three  temples."  (Memorandum  of  the 
Earl  qf  Elgin's  Pursuits  in  Greece,  p.  23.  Lond.  181  J. )  See  also 
Chandler's  Trav.  in  Greece t  chap.  1 1.  p.  52.     Oaf.  1786,  &c.  Sec. 

(3)  See  a  Plan  of  these  buildings  by  Mr.  W.  Wilkins,  author  of  the 
Antiquities  of  Magna  Gracia,  &c.  as  engraved  for  Mr.  Walpoie's 
Selections  from  the  MS.  Journals  of  Travellers  in  the  Levant. 

(4)  'Ear i  &  Kai  oiKnua  'Up'ixQuov  KaXovutvov.  Vaxtsan.  lib.  i.  c.  26 
p.  6*2.    Lips.  1696. 


IV. 


A  f  H  E  N  S.  245 

&  of  a  triple,  but  as  of  a  duple  form5 ;  and  in  the  chap. 
succeeding  chapter  he  mentions  the  two  parts 
of  which  it  consisted,  naming  them  the  Temples 
of  Pandrosus  and  Minerva6.  The  sepulchral 
origin  of  the  Parthenon,  as  of  all  the  Athenian 
temples,  has  been  already  proved  ;  and  the  same 
historian  who  has  preserved  a  record  of  the 
situation  of  the  sepulchre  ofCecrops  also  informs  us 
that  the  tomb  of  Ericthonius  existed  in  the  Temple 
of  Minerva  Polios7.  The  Turks  had  made  a 
powder-magazine  of  one  of  the  vestibules  of  this 
building;  so  that  it  was  necessary  to  creep 
through  a  hole  in  the  wall  in  order  to  see  the 
finest  specimen  of  Ionic  architecture  now  exist- 
ing :  it  was  an  inner  door  of  one  of  the  temples ; 
and  it  has  been  judiciously  remarked8  of  the 
sculpture  everywhere  displayed  in  this  edifice, 
that  "  it  is  difficult  to  conceive  how  marble  has 
been  wrought  to  such  a  depth  and  brought  to  so 


(5)  Kai  BtirXovv  yap  iari  rd  ofcjjsia.     Ibid. 

(6)  Ty  ray  ik  rifc  '\9rjvdc  Hav$p6<rov  vadg  <rvvi\fiQ  tan.     Ibid,  c 
*7.  p.  «4.     Zips.  1606. 

(7)  'AOqvyai  8k  iv  6.Kpox6\ut  KiKpoirog,  wg  <prjaiv  'Avrto^oj  Iv  ry 
runf  urropi&v  ri  Sal  'EporOoviOf ;  oh\i  iv  rtf  viif  rijs  Ilo\ia$OQ 

iflnrrau  €i  A  then  is  autem  in  ipsa  pariter  Acropoli,  Cecropis,  ut  An- 
twehos  Historian! ra  nono  script um  reliquit.  Quid  porrd  Ericthonius  ? 
aoane  m  Poliadis  templo sepultus  est?"  Clementit  AUxandrini  Cohor- 
taiioad  Gentes,  torn.  I.  p.  39.     Oxon.  1715. 

(d)  Memorandum,  fitc.  p.  24.    Land.  1811. 


246  ATHENS. 

chap,  sharp  an  edge,  the  different  ornaments  having  all 
v^yv  the  delicacy  of  works  in  metal."  Lusieri,  for  whom 
and  for  the  other  artists  this  passage  had  been 
opened,  said,  that  he  considered  the  workmanship 
of  the  frieze  and  cornice,  and  of  the  Ionic  capital*, 
as  the  most  admirable  specimens  of  the  art  of 
sculpture  in  the  world1:  he  came  daily  to  examine 
it,  with  additional  gratification  and  wonder.  He 
directed  our  attention  to  the  extraordinary  state 
of  preservation  in  which  the  Caryatides  of  the 
Pandroseum  still  remained :  passing  the  hand  over 
the  surface  of  the  marble  upon  the  necks  of 
these  statues,  it  seemed  to  retain  its  original 
polish  in  the  highest  perfection.  Within  this 
or  the  building,  so  late  as  the  second  century,  was 
preserved  the  olive-tree  mentioned  by  Apollodorus*, 


(1)  Mr.  Cripps  has  preferred,  hi  bit  MS.  Journal,  a  note,  dic- 
tated by  Lusieri,  relative  to  a  vary  curious  discovery  made  by  that 
artist  with  regard  to  the  sculptured  ornaments  of  the  Erecthium. 
The  author  also  well  remembers  its  being  pointed  out  to  him  by  the 
same  person,  upon  the  spot  Lusieri  found  among  the  most  delicate 
intertezture  of  the  wreaths  and  foliage,  small  brass  nails,  and  bits  of 
antique  glass,  which  had  been  fastened  on  to  heighten  the  general 
delicacy  and  exquisite  finishing  of  the  work.  This  circumstance  has 
been  noticed  by  no  other  traveller.  Perhaps,  according  to  oar  notions 
of  taste,  as  founded  upon  the  Grecian  School,  these  works  appear 
more  beautiful  in  their  present  nakedness  than  they  would  have  done 
if  we  had  beheld  them  as  they  were  originally  finished,  when  tbey 
were  painted  and  gilded,  and  studded  with  glass  beads,  or  invested 
with  other  extraneous  ornament. 

(2)  Vid.  Pausan.  lib.  i.  c.  27.  p.  64.    Lips.  1686. 


ATHENS.  247 

was  said  to  be  as  old  as  the  foundation  of  chap. 

iv. 
die  citadel.     Stuart  supposed  it  to  have  stood 

in  the  portico  of  the  Temple  of  Pandrosus  (called 

by  bita  the  Pandroseum),  from  the  circumstance 

of  the  air  necessary  for  its  support,  which  could 

here  be  admitted  between  the  Caryatides ;  but 

instances  of  trees  that  have   been    preserved 

unto  a  very  great  age,  within  the  interior  of  an 

edifice    inclosed    by   walls,   may    be   adduced. 

The  building  was  of  course  erected  subsequently 

to  the   growth  of  the  tree,  and  was  in  some 

degree  adapted   to  its   form.     A  very  curious 

relic   of   this    kind    may   be   seen  at   Cawdor 

Castle,  nenr  Invemess/m  Scotland;  in  which  build* 

mg  a  hawthorn-tree  of  great  antiquity  is  very 

remarkably  preserved.     Tradition  relates,  that 

the  original  proprietor  of  the  edifice  was  directed 

by  a  dream  to  build  a  castle  exactly  upon  the 

spot  where  the  tree  was  found ;  and  this  was 

done  in  such  a  manner  as  to  leave  no  doubt  hut 

that  the  tree  existed  long  before  the  structure 

was  erected.     The  trunk  of  this  tree,  with  the 

knotty  protuberances  left  by  its  branches,  is  still 

shewn1  in  a  vaulted  apartment  at  the  bottom  of 

the  principal  tower :  its  roots  branch  out  beneath 


(3)  The  author  saw  it  in   1797.    The  Dame  of  the  building,  as  it  is 
now  pronounced,  is  not  Cawdor,  but  Colder  Castle. 


248  ATHENS. 

chap,  the  floor,  and  its  top  penetrates  the  vaulted  arch 
S^s**'  of  stone   above,    in   such  a  manner   that  any 
person  seeing  it  is  convinced  the  masonry  was 
adjusted  to  the  shape  and  size  of  the  plant, 
a  space  being  left  for  its  admission  through  the 
top  of  the  vault.    The  hawthorn-tree  of  Cawdor 
Castle,  and  the  traditionary  superstition  to  which 
it  has  owed  its  preservation  during  a  lapse  of 
centuries,  may  serve  as  a  parallel  to  the  history 
of  the  Athenian  Olive,  by  exhibiting  an  example 
nearly  similar ;  the  one  being  considered  as  the 
Palladium  of  an  antient  Highland  Clan1,  and  the 
other  regarded  as  the  most  sacred  relic  of  the 
Cecropian  Citadel.  Within  the  Erecthhm  was  the 
Weil.       Well  of  salt  water,  also  shewn  as  a  mark  of  the 
contest  for  Attica  between  Neptune  and  Minerva?. 
This  well  is  mentioned  by  Wheler*,  who  could 
not  obtain  permission  to  see  it :  he  was  assured 
that  it  was  "  almost  dry"  when  he  visited  the 


(1)  It  had  been  a  custom,  from  time  immemorial,  for  guests  in  the 
castle  to  assemble  around  this  tree,  and  drink  "Success  to  the  haw- 
thorn" or,  in  other  words,  "  Prosperity  to  the  beam  of  the  house  of 
Cawdor :"  upon  the  principle  observed  still  in  Wales,  of  figuratively 
connecting  the  upright  prop  or  beam,  which,  in  old  houses,  extended 
from  the  floor  to  the  roof,  with  the  main-stem  or  master  of  a  family. 
The  first  toast  after  dinner  in  a  Welch  mansion  is,  generally,  "  The 
chief  beam  of  the  house.** 

(2)  Pausan.  lib.  i.  c.  26.    Lips.  1696. 

(3)  Journey  into  Greece,  p.  364.    Lond.  1682. 


V 


•ATHENS.  349 

Acropolis  :  but  before  Wheler  arrived  in  A  then*,  chap. 
it  had  been  seen  and  very  curiously  described  by 
Guilletiere,  whose  account  of  the  notions  enter- 
tained concerning  it  by  the  inhabitants  exactly 
corresponds  with  all  that  Pausanias  had  related 
of  its  antient  history4.  The  existence  of  the 
well,  in  such  a  remarkable  situation,  identifies 
the  JErecthhtm  better  than  any  proof  derived 
from  the  present  appearance  of  the  building. 

We  dined  with  Signor  Zusieri  and  the  artists 
who  were  his  fellow-labourers  in  the  Acropolis  > 
upon  a  boiled  kid  and  some  rice.  Honey  from 
Mount  Hymettus  was  served,  of  such  extraor- 
dinary toughness  and  consistency,  although 
quite  transparent,  that  the  dish  containing  it 
might  be  turned  with  its  bottom  upwards  without 
spilling  a  drop ;  and  the  surface  of  it  might  also 
be  indented  with  the  edge  of  a  knife,  yielding  to 
the  impression  without  separation,  like  a  mass 
of  dough.     As  an  article  of  food  it  is  reckoned 


(4)  "  Au  sortir  da  temple  noas  vtmes,  a  cinquante  pas  de  la,  ce  puys 
tetebre,  dont  on  a  toojoura  parte1  comme  d'ane  des  merveilles  de  la 
latere ;  et  adjourd'hoy  les  Athlniens  le  content  poor  une  des  pins 
carienaes  raretez  de  leur  pays.  Son  eau  est  salee,et  a  la  couleur  de  celle 
as  lamer:  toates  les  ibis  que  le  ventduroidy  souffle,  die  est  agitle,  et 
bit  an  grand  bruit  dans  le  iond  du  puys.*'  Voyage  d'AtfUnes,  p.  298. 
*  Paris,  1675. 


f 


i 

i 


260  ATHENS. 


chap,  yery  heating :  and  persons  who  eat  much  of  it 
v^-vw  are  liable  to  fever.  We  tasted  the  wine  of 
Athens,  which  is  unpleasant  to  those  who  are 
not  accustomed  to  it,  from  the  quantity  of  resin 
and  lime  infused  as  substitutes  for  brandy, 
After  dinner  we  examined  the  remains  of  the 
Propyl™.  Propyuea  ;  concerning  which  we  have  little  to 
add  to  the  remarks  already  published.  Over  the 
entrance  may  be  seen  one  of  those  enormous 
slabs  of  marble,  called  marble  beams  by  Wheler1; 
and  to  which  Pausanias  particularly  alluded, 
when,  in  describing  the  Propylsea,  he  says,  that, 
even  in  his  time,  nothing  surpassing  the  beauty 
of  the  workmanship,  or  the  magnitude  of  the 
stones  used  in  the  building,  had  ever  been  seen*. 
We  have  since  compared  the  dimensions  of  this 
stab  with  those  of  an  architrave  of  much  greater 
size,  namely  that  which  covers  the  entrance  to 
the  great  sepulchre  at  Mycence ;  for  it  is  re- 
markable that  Pausanias,  who  would  have  men- 
tioned the  fact  if  he  had  seen  the  latter,  gives  a 
very  detailed  account  of  the  ruins  of  that  city, 
and  yet  takes  no  notice  of  the  most  prodigious 
mass   perhaps  ever   raised   for  any  purpose  of 

(1)  Journey  into  Greece,  Book  V.  p.  869.    Land.  1C82. 

(2)  Td  8k  UpoirvXaia  \l9ov  Xivkov  ri)v  6pofr)v  f^ii,  icai  ro<x/iy  ral 

luyiOttrAv  XlBuv pixt"  7*  «"  */*™  *potixt*     Pausanuc  Attica,  c.  21. 
p.  51.  Lips.  16U0. 


ATHENS.  251 

architecture,  and  which  is  nearly  four  times  as  chap. 
large*  as  any  of  the  stones  that  so  much 
his  admiration  in  viewing  the  Propykea. 
magnificent  building,  fronting  the  only 
entrance  to  the  Citadel,  has  also  experienced  some 
of  the  effects  of  the  same  ill-judged  rapacity 
which  was  levelled  against  the  Parthenon.  If 
the  influence  of  a  better  spirit  do  not  prevent 
a  repetition  of  similar  "Pursuits  in  Greece? 
Athens  will  sustain  more  damage  in  being 
visited  by  travellers,  calling  themselves  persons 
of  taste,  than  when  it  was  forgotten  by  the  world, 
and  entirely  abandoned  to  its  barbarian  pos- 
sessore :  in  a  few  years,  the  traveller  even  upon 
the  spot  must  be  content  to  glean  his  intelligence 
from  the  representation  afforded  by  books  of 
Travels,  if  he  should  be  desirous  to  know  what 
remained  of  the  Fine  Arts  so  lately  as  the  time 


(3)  The  slab  at  Mycence  is  of  breccia,  twenty-seven  feet  long, 
seventeen  feet  wide,  and  above  four  feet  and  a  half  in  thickness. 
That  which  remains  at  the  Propyl&a  is  of  white  marble,  cut  with  the 
utmost  precision  and  evenness  :  its  length  is  seventeen  feet  nino 
inches.  The  former  has  quite  an  JEgyptian  character:  the  latter 
bespeaks  the  finer  art  of  a  much  later  period  in  history.  But  the  slab 
of  marble  at  the  Propylcea  is  not  the  largest  even  in  Athens ;  an  archi- 
trave belonging  to  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympius  exceeds  it  in  cubical 
dimensions :  the  length  of  this  architrave  equals  twenty-two  feet  six 
inches;  its  width  three  feet;  aud  its  height  six  feet  six  inches.  See 
Stmrt'i  Athens;    Pre/,  to  vol.  III.  p.  9.    Land.  1794. 


4 

i 

262  ATHENS. 

chap.   In  which  the   city   was  visited  by  Whelet,  by 


IV. 


Chandler,  or  by   Stuart*     We  afterwards  exa- 
Waiifl       mined  the  remains  of  the  original  walls  of  the 

of  the  .  &  7 

Acropolis.  Acropolis ;  and  observed  some  appearances  in  the 
work  which  had  not  at  that  time,  so  far  as  our 
information  extended,  been  noticed  by  preceding 
travellers.  Those  walls  exhibit  three  distinct 
periods  of  construction  ;  that  is  to  say,  the 
masonry  of  modern  times  in  the  repairs ;  a  style  of 
building  which  can  only  be  referred  to  the  age  of 
Chnon,  or  of  Pericles ;  and  the  antient  Pelasgic 
work,  as  mentioned  by  JLucian1.  This  was  pointed 
out  to  us  by  Lusieri;  but  the  circumstance  which 
had  escaped  his  notice,  which  we  afterwards 
ascertained,  was,  that  a  row  of  triglyphs,  and 
intervening  metopes,  had  been  continued  all 
round  the  upper  part  of  the  walls,  immediately 
beneath  the  coping.  Other  travellers  have  since 
observed  and  mentioned  the  same  fact8:  heuce 
it  is  evident,  from  the  circumference  of  the 
Acropolis  being  thus  characterized  by  symbols  of 
sacred  architecture,  that  the  whole  peribolus  was 
considered  as  one  vast  and  solemn  sanctuary. 
We  have  an  instance  of  the  same  kind  of  sanc- 
tuary in  modern  times,  and  in  our  own  age. 


(1)  Bit  Accusatus,  torn.  VII.  p  60.     Bipont.VdQ* 

(2)  Memorandum,  &c.  p.  28.    Land.  181 1 . 


ATHENS.  253 

The  Kremlin  at  Moscow,  the  Acropolis  of  a  city  chap. 
whose  inhabitants  have  preserved,  with  their  v^v^ 
religion,  many  a  remnant  of  Grecian  manners, 
is  in  like  manner  held  sacred  by  the  people ;  and 
no  person  is  permitted  to  pass  the  "  Holy  Gate" 
leading  to  the  interior,  but  with  his  head  un- 
covered3. 

We  then  descended  to  visit  the  Odeum  of  odium  qf 

Regilla. 

Regilla,  (the  building  we  had  passed  in  the 
morning,)  at  the  foot  of  the  rock  of  the  Acro- 
polis, and  upon  its  south-western  side4.  The 
remains  of  this  edifice  are  those  which  Wkeler 
and  all  former  travellers,  excepting  Chandler, 
even  to  the  time  of  Stuart,  have  described  as 
the  Theatre  of  Bacchus.  Chandler  consi- 
dered it  as  the  Odium  of  Pericles,  rebuilt  by 
Herodes  Atticus.  But  Pausanias,  speaking  of  the 
Odium  erected  by  Herodes,  in  memory  of  his 
wife,  mentions  it  as  an  original  structure.  It 
was  therefore  distinct  both  from  the  edifice 
erected  by  Pericles  and  from  the  Theatre  of 
Bacchus ;  so  that,  perhaps,  no  doubt  will  here- 
after be  entertained  upon  the  subject,  so  far  as 


(3)  See  Vol.  I.  of  these  Travels,  Chap.  VII.  p.  149.    Octavo  Edit. 

(4)  See  the  Plan  of  Athens,  engraved  as  a  Vignette  to  this  Chapter. 


254  ATHENS. 

this  building  is  concerned1.  All  the  remaining 
parts  of  this  most  costly  theatre  are,  first,  three 
rows  of  circular  arches,  one  row  above  another, 
facing  the  south-west ;  and  these  now  constitute 
an  out-work  of  the  fortress,  but  originally  they 
belonged  to  the  exterior  face  of  the  Scene : 
secondly,  the  Coilon  for  the  seats  of  the  spec- 
tators,   at    present    almost    choked   with    soiK 


(1)  See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter.    The  Odeum  of  Pericles  was 
on  the  south-east  side,  and,  according  to  Vitruvius,  upon  the  left  of 
those  who  came  ont  of  the  Theatre  of  Bacchus  :  "  Exeunttbus  a 
theatro  sinistra  parte.  Odeum,  quod  Athenis  Pericles columnis  lapideis 
disposuit"     (Vitruv.  lib.  v.  c.  9J      It  is  this  circumstance  alone 
which  has  caused  the  Odium  of  H erodes  to  be  confounded  with  that 
Theatre;  but  the  monument  alluded  to  by   VUruvius  was  at  the  end 
of  the  Street  of  the  Tripods,  and  between  that  street  and  the  Theatre 
of   Bacchus.     There    were  three  different   monuments  which    had 
received  the  name  of  Odium :  one  at  the  south-east  angle  of  the  Citadel, 
which  was  the  Odium  of  Pericles ;   another  at  the  south-west  angle* 
which  was  the  Odium  of  Her  odes  At  tints .    The  Odium  mentioned  by 
Pausanias  is  again   considered  as  a  third:    the  Abbi  Barthelemy 
believed  the   Pnyx  to  have  been  called  Odium  by   Pausanias.    The 
subject   is,  indeed,  somewhat  embarrassed  :    and    the    reader,    who 
wishes  to  see  it  more  fully  illustrated,  may  consult  the  Notes  to  the 
12th  Chapter  of  the  Voyage  du  Jeune  Anacharsis,  torn.  II.  p.  542. 
sur  le  Plan  aV  Athines  {&  Paris,  1700) ;  and  the  authorities  cited  by  its 
author. 

(2)  There  is  a  fine  view  of  the  interior  published  in  the  second 
volume  of  Stuart's  Athens,  ch.  iii.  PI.  1.;  but  the  representation, 
from  a  drawing  by  Preaux,  will,  perhaps,  be  found  more  faithful,  as  to 
its  external  appearance-  (See  the  Quarto  Edition,  Vol.  III.  p.  506.)  It 
also  affords  one  of  the  most  interesting  views  of  the  Acropolis;  shewing 
the  situation  of  the  Propylaa,  the  Parthenon,  and,  to  the  right  of  the 
Theatre  of  Herodes,  the  site  of  the  long  Porticoet  surrounding  it,  the 


ATHENS.  255 

Nearly  all  that  we  know  of  the  building  is  chap. 
derived  from  an  accidental  allusion  made  to  it 
by  PausaniaSy  in  his  description  of  Achaia ;  for 
it  was  not  erected,  as  he  himself  declares,  when 
he  had  finished  his  account  of  Attica*.  It  was 
raised  by  IFerodes,  in  memory  of  his  wife ;  and 
considered  as  far  surpassing,  in  magnitude  and 
in  the  costliness  of  its  materials,  every  other 
edifice  of  the  kind  in  all  Greece?.  The  roof  of  it 
was  of  cedar.  The  Onion  for  the  seats  was 
scooped  in  the  solid  rock  of  the  Citadel ;  a  prac- 
tice so  antient,  that  from  this  circumstance 
alone  a  person  might  be  induced  to  believe, 
with  Chandler \  some  more  antient  theatre  existed 
upon  the  spot  before  H erodes  added  any  thing 
to  the  work.  The  first  thing  that  strikes  a 
modern  traveller,  in  viewing  the  Grecian  thea- 
tres, is  the  shallowness  of  the  Proscenion,  or 
place  for  the  stage.  It  is  hardly  possible  to 
conceive  how,  either  by  the  aid  of  painting  or  by 
scenic  decoration,  any  tolerable  appearance  of 
distance  or  depth  of  view  could  be  imitated. 


fa»  Choragie  Pillar*  near  to  the  Theatre  of  Bacchus,  the  columns  of 
Hadrian's  Temple  of  Olympian  Jove,  and  a  distant  view  of  the  ridge 
of  Hymettu*. 

(3)  PausanuB  Achaica,  c.  20.  p.  574.    Lips.  1696. 

(4)  Tovro  yap   uiykOti  rt  icai  lc  rrjv  waaav  vwtpqKt  taraoKtvriv. 
Pamsania  Achaica,  ibid. 


256  ATHENS. 

chap.  The  actors  must  have  appeared  like  our  moder 
mountebanks  upon  a  waggon.  But  so  little 
known  of  the  plan  of  an  antient  theatre,  part 
cularly  of  the  Proscenion,  and  the  manner  i 
which  the  Dramas  were  represented,  that  tl 
most  perfect  remains  which  we  have  of  sue 
structures  leave  us  still  in  the  dark  respectin 
the  parts  necessary  to  compose  the  entire  buil< 
ing.  There  is  no  traveller  who  has  better  con 
pressed  what  antient  and  modern  writers  ha\ 
said  upon  the  subject,  or  in  a  more  perspicuoi 
manner,  than  Guilletiere;  who  piqued  himse 
upon  the  value  of  his  observations1,  althoug 
no  one  since  has  ever  noticed  him.  It 
observed  by  him2,  that  among  all  the  subjec 
of  which  antient  authors  have  treated,  that  • 
the  construction  of  their  theatres  is  the  mo 
obscure,  the  most  mutilated,  and  delivered  wii 
the  most  contradiction.  Vitruvius,  says  h 
conducts  his  readers  only  half  way8 :  he  giv 
neither  the  dimensions,  nor  the  situation,  n 
the  number  of  the  principal  parts;  believu 
them  to  be  sufficiently  well  known,  and  nev 


(1)  "  Je  vous  avone  franchemeot  que  e'est  icy  qne  je  pr6tens  b 
vous  faire  valoir  la  peine  de  me*  voyages,  et  le  fruit  do  mes  obfer 
lions."     Voyage  d'  Athtnet,p.  306.    a  Paris,  1675. 

(2)  Ibid. 

(3)  .  .  .  "  a  moitie  ckemin."    Ibid. 


ATHENS.  267 

ouce  dreaming  that  they  were  likely  to  perish,  chap. 
For  example,  he  does  not  determine  the  quan- 
tity of  the  Diazomata,  or  Prceeinctiones,  which 
we  call  corridors,  retreats,  or  landing-places :  and 
e?en  in  things  which  he  does  specify,  he  lays 
down  rules  which  we  actually  find  were  never 
attended  to ;  as  when  he  tells  of  two  distinct 
elevations  observed  in  the  construction  of  their 
rows  of  benches,  and  neither  the  one  nor  the 
other  accords  with  any  thing  now  remaining  of 
the  antient  theatres.  Among  modern  writers, 
the  Jesuit  Gallutius  Sabienus,  and  the  learned 
SeaUger,  have  neglected  the  most  essential 
parts :  and  the  confused  mass  of  citations  col- 
lected by  Bulengerus  intimidates  any  one  who  is 
desirous  to  set  them  in  a  clear  light :  after  being 
at  the  pains  to  examine  his  authorities,  and 
glean  whatever  intelligence  may  be  derived 
from  Athencsus,  Hesychius,  Julius  Pollux,  Eusta- 
fftu,  Smdas,  and  others,  our  knowledge  is  still 
TOy  imperfect.  The  Greek  theatres  were  in 
general  open ;  but  the  Odium  of  Regilla  was 
magnificently  covered,  as  has  been  stated,  with 
a  roof  of  cedar.  The  Odium  of  Pericles,  or 
Music  Theatre,  was  also  covered  ;  for,  according 
to  Plutarch,  it  was  the  high-pointed  and  tent- 
tike  shape  of  its  roof,  which  gave  occasion  to 
the  comic  poet  Oratinus  to  level  some  ingenious 
vou  vi.  s 


258  ATHENS. 

c*[*p-  raillery  at  Pericles,  who  had  the  care  of  it1.  In 
^»*w  their  open  theatres,  the  Greeks,  being  exposed  to 
the  injuries  of  weather,  commonly  made  their 
appearance  in  large  cloaks ;  they  also  made  use 
of  the  sciadion,  answering  to  our  umbrella,  as  a 
screen  from  the  sun.  The  plays  were  per- 
formed always  by  day-light  When  a  storm 
arose,  the  theatre  was  deserted,  and  the  audi- 
ence dispersed  themselves  in  the  outer  galleries 
and  adjoining  porticoes9.  During  their  most 
magnificent  spectacles,  odoriferous  liquors  were 
showered  upon  the  heads  of  the  people;  and 
the  custom  of  scattering  similar  offerings  upon 
the  heads  of  the  people  was  often  practised  at 
Venice  during  the  Carnival. 

Descrip-        By  the  word  Theatre,  the  Antients  intended 

tion  of  an  y 

antient     the  whole  body  of  the  edifice  where  the  people 

Theatre,    assembled  to  see  their  public  representations*. 

The    parts    designed    for    the  spectators    were 

salted  the  Conistra,  or  pit ;  the  rows  of  benches; 


(1)  'O  <TxivoKt+a\oc  Z«$c  5£c  wpovipxlr<u 
ncpueXcifCf  ripSilop  twl  rov  cpavtov 
"Exwv,  lictiSr)  TOvtrrpaKov  jrapoittTau 

Vid.  Plut.  in  Pericl.  torn.  I.  p.  353.    LotuL  1783. 

(2)  Vxtruv.  lib.  t.  c.  9.  p.  92. 

(3)  Plutarch  considers  Qiarpov  to  be  derived  from  6<og ;  became, 
before  theatres  were  built,  the  Chorus  sang  the  praises  of  their  Gods, 
and  the  commendation  of  illustrious  men. 


ATHENS.  259 

the  Diazomata,  or  corridors ;  the  little  stairs ;  chap. 
the  Ccrcys  ;  and  the  Echea.  The  other  principal 
parts  of  the  theatre,  belonging  to  the  actors, 
were  called  the  Orchestra ;  the  Proscenion ;  and 
the  Scene,  that  is  to  say,  the  front  or  face  of  the 
decorations ;  for,  properly,  the  word  Scene  has 
oo  other  signification.  The  interior  structure 
extended  like  the  arc  of  a  circle,  reaching  to 
the  two  corners  of  the  Proscenion :  above  that 
portion  of  the  circumference  were  raised  four 
and  twenty  rows  of  benches,  surrounding  the 
Gmistra,  or  pit,  for  the  spectators.  These 
benches,  in  their  whole  height,  were  divided 
into  three  sets  by  the  Diazomata  or  corridors, 
consisting  of  eight  rows  in  each  division.  The 
Diazomata  ran  parallel  to  the  rows  of  seats,  and 
were  of  the  same  form ;  they  were  contrived  as 
passages  for  the  spectators  from  one  part  of  the 
theatre  to  another,  without  incommoding  those 
who  were  seated  :  for  the  same  convenience, 
there  were  little  steps4  that  crossed  the  several 
rows,  and  reached  from  one  corridor  to  another, 
from  the  top   to   the   bottom,  so    that    persons 


(4)  Bach  of  those  little  steps  was  exactly  half  the  height  of  one  of 
tile  benches.  They  formed  diverging  radii  from  the  Conistra.  Such 
tfiircases  remain  very  entire  in  the  theatres  of  Asia  Minor,  as  at 
THwuuum  ;  in  Epidauria ;  at  Sieyon ;  dusroncta ;  sec. 

s  2 


260 


ATHENS. 


chap,  might  ascend  or  descend  without  incommoding 
the  audience.  Near  to  those  staircases  were 
passages  leading  to  the  outer  porticoes,  by 
which  the  spectators  entered  to  take  their 
places.  The  best  places  were  in  the  middle 
tier,  upon  the  eight  rows  between  the  eighth 
and  the  seventeenth  bench.  This  part  of  the 
theatre  was  called  Bouleuticon ;  it  was  set  apart 
for  the  magistrates.  The  other  tiers  were 
called  Ephebicon,  and  were  appropriated  to  the 
citizens  after  they  had  attained  their  eighteenth 
year.  Along  each  corridor,  at  convenient 
distances,  in  the  solid  part  of  the  structure, 
were  small  cellular  cavities,  called  JEchaa, 
containing  brass  vessels,  open  towards  the 
Scene.  Above  the  upper  corridor  there  was  a 
gallery  or  portico,  called  Cercys,  for  the  women ; 
but  those  who  had  led  disorderly  lives  had  a 
place  apart  for  their  reception.  Strangers,  and 
allies  who  had  the  freedom  of  the  city,  were 
also  placed  in  the  Cercys.  Individuals  had  also, 
sometimes,  a  property  in  particular  places; 
which  descended  by  succession  to  the  eldest  of 
the  family. 

Thus  much  for  the  parts  appropriated  to  the 
spectators.  With  regard  to  others  belonging 
to  the  Drama,  the  Orchestra  (an  elevation  out  of 


(1)  Betides  the  parts  of  a  Greek  Theatre  here  enumerated,  Guilletiere 
Mentions  the  Logeum,  or  ThymcU,  which  the  Romans  called  Pulpitum  ; 
and  the  Hypotcemon  ;  both  which  were  parts  of  the  Orchestra.  Alto 
the  Parascemon,  or  space  before  and  behind  the  Scene ;  and  a  species 
of  machinery  for  introducing  the  Gods,  which  was  called  Tkedogtion. 


ATHENS.  261 

the  Qmistra  or  pit)  began  about  fifty-four  feet 
from  the  face  of  the  Proscenion  or  stage,  and 
ended  at  the  Proscenion.  Its  height  was  about 
four  feet;  its  shape,  an  oblong  parallelogram, 
detached  from  the  seats  of  the  spectators  :  here 
were  stationed  the  musicians,  the  choir,  and 
the  mimics.  Among  the  Romans  it  was  destined 
for  a  more  noble  use  ;  the  Emperor,  the  Senate, 
the  Vestals,  and  other  persons  of  quality,  having 
their  seats  upon  it.  The  Proscenion  or  stage 
was  raised  seven  feet  above  the  Orchestra,  and 
eleven  above  the  Conistra  ;  and  upon  it  stood  an 
altar  dedicated  to  Apollo.  The  part  called  the 
Scene  was  nothing  else  than  the  columns,  and 
architectural  decorations,  raised  from  the  foun- 
dations and  upon  the  wings  of  the  Proscenion, 
merely  for  ornament.  When  there  were  three 
rows  of  pillars  one  above  another,  the  highest 
row  was  called  Episcenion.  Agatarchus  was  the 
first  architect  who  decorated  the  Scene  according 
to  the  rules  of  perspective :  he  received  his 
instructions  from  JEschylus1.     The  theatres  of 


262  ATHENS. 

chap.  Greece  and  Asia  Minor  were  not  solely  appro- 
priated to  plays  and  public  shows ;  sometimes 
they  were  used  for  state  assemblies ;  and  occa- 
sionally as  schools,  in  which  the  most  eminent 
philosophers  harangued  their  scholars.  St.  Paul 
was  desirous  to  go  into  the  theatre  at  Ephesus, 
to  address  the  people,  during  the  uproar  caused 
by  Demetrius  the  silversmith1 ;  but  was  intreated 
by  his  disciples  not  to  present  himself  there, 
through  fear  that  he  would  encounter  the 
violence  which  Gains  and  Aristarchus  had 
already  experienced2. 

From  the  Odhim  of  Regilla  we  went  to  the 
Areopagus  ;  wishing  to  place  our  feet  upon  a 
spot  where  it  is  so  decidedly  known  that 
St.  Paul  had  himself  stood,  when  he  declared 
unto      the     Athenians*     the    nature     of     the 


(1)  Act8.x\x.30,  31. 

(2)  This  brief  surrey  of  the  form  of  an  antient  Greek  theatre,  and 
of  its  various  parts,  will  be  found  useful  to  travellers,  during  their 
examination  of  the  remains  of  such  structures.  Those  who  wish  to 
see  the  subject  more  fully  discussed,  may  consult  Guilletiere  •  from 
whose  researches,  added  to  his  personal  observations,  it  has  been  with 
very  little  alteration,  derived.  The  author,  having  already  proved  its 
accuracy,  by  comparing  it  with  the  Notes  be  made  among  the  rains 
of  the  Grecian  theatres,  and  finding  that  it  had  been  unaccountably 
overlooked,  conceived  it  might  make  a  useful  addition  to  his  work. 

(3)  Jrtfxvii.32. 


ATHENS.  263 

Unknown  God  whom  they  so  ignorantly  CHAP# 
worshipped,  and  opposed  the  new  doctrine  of  J^ 
"  Christ  crucified"  to  the  spirit  and  the  genius 
of  the  Gentile  faith.  They  had  brought  him  to 
the  Areopagus,  to  explain  the  nature  of  the  rash 
enterprise  in  which  he  was  engaged  ;  and  to 
account  for  the  unexampled  temerity  of  an 
appeal  which  called  upon  them  to  renounce 
their  idols,  to  abolish  their  most  holy  rites,  and 
to  forsake  their  Pantheon  for  One  only  God 
"who  dwelleth  not  in  temples  made  with 
hands/' — the  God  of  the  Hebrews  too,  a  people 
hated  and  despised  by  all.  It  is  not  possible 
to  conceive  a  situation  of  greater  peril,  or  one 
more  calculated  to  prove  the  sincerity  of  a 
preacher,  than  that  in  which  the  Apostle  was 
here  placed  :  and  the  truth  of  this,  perhaps,  will 
never  be  better  felt,  than  by  a  spectator  who, 
from  this  eminence,  actually  beholds  the  stately 
monuments  of  Pagan  pomp  and  superstition  by 
which  he,  whom  the  Athenians  consider  as  "  the 
setter-forth  of  strange  Gods,'*  was  then  sur- 
rounded ;  representing  to  the  imagination  the 
disciples  of  Socrates  and  of  Plato,  the  Dogmatist 
of  the  Porch,  and  the  Sceptic  of  the  Academy, 
addressed  by  a  poor  and  lowly  man,  who,  "  rude 
in  speech,"  without  the  "  enticing  words  of  man's 
wisdom/'   enjoined  precepts  contrary   to    their 


264  ATHENS* 

chap,  taste,  and  very  hostile  to  their  prejudices.  One 
TV'  of  the  peculiar  privileges  of  the  Areapagitm 
seems  to  have  been  set  at  defiance  by  the  zeal 
of  St.  Paul  upon  this  occasion ;  namely,  that  of 
inflicting  extreme  and  exemplary  punishment 
upon  any  person  who  should  slight  the  celebra- 
tion of  the  holy  mysteries,  or  blaspheme  the 
Qods  of  Greece.  We  ascended  to  the  summit, 
by  means  of  steps  cut  in  the  natural  stone, 
which  is  of  breccia.  The  sublime  scene  here 
exhibited  is  so  striking,  that  a  brief  descrip- 
tion of  it  may  prove  how  truly  it  offers  to 
ns  a  commentary  upon  the  Apostle's  words, 
as  they  were  delivered  upon  the  spot.  He 
stood  upon  the  top  of  the  rock,  and  beneath 
the  canopy  of  heaven1.  Before  him  there  was 
spread  a  glorious  prospect  of  mountains,  islands, 
seas,  and  skies ;  behind  him  towered  the  lofty 


(1)  The  Senate  of  the  Areopagus  assembled  sometimes  in  the  ifryol 
Portico;  (vid.  Demosth.  in  Aristog.  p.  831.)  but  its  most  ordinary  place 
of  meeting  wis  on  an  eminence  at  a  small  distance  from  the  Citadd, 
(HerodoL  lib.  viii.  e.  62.)  called  "Apctog  xoyoc/.  Here  a  space  was 
lerelled  for  this  Court,  by  planing  the  summit  of  the  rock ;  and  the 
steps  which  conducted  to  it  were  similarly  carred  out  of  the  solid 
•tone.  In  this  respect  it  somewhat  resembled  Pnffx.  The  origin  of 
this  Court  may  be  traced  back  to  the  time  of  Ceeropi  (Marmor.  Osom. 
Epoch.  3.)  The  Areopagus  had  no  roof;  but  it  was  occasionally  de- 
fended from  the  weather  by  a  temporary  shed.  (Jul.  Pofl.iifr.TiB. 
•.10.     Firm*  tie.  U.e.1.) 


ATHENS. 


265 


Acropolis,  crowned  with  all  its  marble  temples,  chap. 
Thus  every  object,  whether  in  the  face  of 
Nature  or  among  the  works  of  Art,  conspired  to 
derate  the  mind,  and  to  fill  it  with  reverence 
towards  that  Being  "who  made  and  governs 
the  world"9 ;  who  sitteth  in  that  light  which  no 
mortal  eye  can  approach,  and  yet  is  nigh  unto 
the  meanest  of  his  creatures ;  "  in  whom  we 
five,  and  move,  and  have  our  being." 

Within  the  Peribolus  of  the  Areopagus  was 
the  Monument  qfGEdipus,  whose  bones,  according 
to  PausanuuP,  were  brought  hither  from  Thebes ; 
and  the  actual  site  of  the  altar  mentioned  by  the 
same  author  may  still  be  seen  in  the  rock.  It  is 
scarcely  necessary  to  repeat  the  history  of  a  place 
so  well  known,  and  so  long  renowned  for  the  im- 
partial judgment  which  was  here  administered4. 

(2)  Acts  xrli.  24,  28. 

(3)  ''Rtrri  8k  ivrbq  rod  ictpifiokov  uvijua  Oidiirotog.  UoXvirpayuov&v 
H,  c&pt*cov  r&  bora  1*  Qijfiwv  KOutoOivra.  Pausan.  lib.  i.  c.  28.  p.  09. 
Zi^.  1696. 

(4)  Every  thing  the  Reader  may  wish  to  tee  concentrated  upon  this 
•abject,  may  be  found  in  the  Thesaurus  Gracarum  Antiguitatum  of 
Grsmomius :  and  particularly  in  the  Areopagus  Meursii,  as  edited  by 
him.  {VuL  Volum.  Quint,  p.  2071.  X.  Bat.  1G99.)  That  the  Hill 
of  the  Areopagus  was  a  continuation  of  the  western  slope  of  the 
AcropoUs,  seems  manifest,  from  the  following  allusion  made  to  it  by 
LuciAH  : — USvov  awUtpiv  In*  "Aptiov  irayov,  uaXXov  8k  tig  rj)v 
'Afp6xoXty  a6n)y,  «*£  av  Ik  ttjq  jrtpi*nrrjc  Rua  Karafavilrj  iravra  ra 
iw  rj  x6Xf *.  "  Tautum  ad  Areopagum  abeamus,  sen  potius  in  ipsam 
Areem ;  ut  tanqnam  e  specula,  simul  omnia,  quae  in  urbe,conspiciantur.'' 

Vid.  Lueian.  in  Piscators,  ap.  Meurs.  Areop.  e.  1.    Edit.  Gronovii. 


266  ATHENS. 

chap.  We   turned   from   it  towards  the   Temple   of 

IV. 

i^v^,  Theseus,  which  exists  almost  as  perfect  as 
Temple  of  when  it  was  at  first  finished.  Having  gratified 
our  curiosity  by  a  hasty  survey  of  the  outside 
of  this  building — which,  although  not  of  so 
much  magnitude  as  the  Parthenon,  ranks  next 
to  it  in  every  circumstance  of  chaste  design  and 
harmonious  proportion— we  entered  the  modern 
city  by  a  gate  near  to  the  Temple*  and  were 
conducted  to  the  comfortable  dwelling  assigned 
for  our  abode,  by  Lusieri,  during  the  remainder 
of  our  residence  in  Athens. 


.o  Q«m,  in  the  Author'*  PomcmIcii. 

CHAP.  V. 


Temple  of  the  Winds — Unknown  Structure  of  the 
Corinthian  Order — The  Bazar  —  Population 
and  Trade  of  Athens— State  of  the  Arts — 
Manufacture  of  Pictures  —  Monochromatic 
Painting  of  the  Antients — Terra-Cottas — Ori- 
gin of  Painting  and  Pottery  among  the  Greeks 
— Medals  and  Gems — Explanation  of  the  Am- 
phora, as  a  symbol  upon  Athenian  Coins — 
Ptolemseum — Antient  Marbles — Theseura — 
Grave  o/*Tweddell — Description  of  the  Tem- 
ple— Areopagus — Piraean  Gate — Pnyx  — 
Monument 


268  A  T  H  E  N  8. 

Monument  an  the  Museum — Antient  Walls — 
Theatre  and  Cave  of  Bacchus—  Monument  of 
Thrasyllus  —  Choragic  Pillars  —  Remarkable 
Inscription — Origin  of  the  Crypt — Ice  Plant 
in  its  native  state — Arch  of  Hadrian — its  origin 
— when  erected — Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympius 
— Discordant  accounts  of  this  building — reasons 
for  the  name  assigned  to  it — Ilissus — Fountain 
Callirhoe — False  notions  entertained  of  the 
river — Stadium  Panathenaicum — Sepulchre  of 
Herodes — Hadrian's  Reservoir — Mount  An- 
chesmus — View  from  the  summit. 

chap.  The  next  morning,  October  the  thirtieth,  we 
K^sr+J  received  a  visit  from  the  English  Consul,  Signer 
Spiridion  Logotheti,  who  accompanied  us  to  the 
Waiwodey  or  Turkish  Governor.  This  ceremony 
being  over,  Lusieri  conducted  us  to  see  the 
Tempi*  of  famous  marble  Temple  of  the  Winds,  at  a 
'  short  distance  from  the  bazar.  This  octagonal 
building  is  known  to  be  the  same  which 
Vitruvius  mentions,  but  it  is  entirely  unnoticed 
by  Pansanias.  The  soil  has  been  raised  all 
around  the  tower,  and  in  some  places  accu- 
mulated to  the  height  of  fifteen  feet :  owing  to 
this  circumstance,  the  spectator  is  placed  too 
near  to  the  figures  sculptured  in  relief  upon  the 
sides  of  the  edifice ;  for  these  appear  to  be 
clumsy  statues,  out    of   all  proportion  to  the 


V. 


ATHENS.  269 

building.  Lusieri  believed  that  it  had  been  the  chap. 
original  design  of  the  architect  to  raise  those 
figures  to  a  greater  elevation  than  that  in  which 
they  were  viewed  even  before  the  accumulation 
of  the  soil.  Stuart  has  been  so  explicit  in  the 
description  of  the  building  and  every  thing  re- 
lating to  it,  that  he  has  left  nothing  to  be  added 
by  other  travellers1.  It  seems  the  Christians 
once  made  use  of  it  as  a  church ;  and  their 
establishment  has  been  succeeded  by  that  of  a 
college  of  Dervishes,  who  here  exhibit  their 
peculiar  dance.  Probably  it  was  one  of  the 
sacred  structures  of  the  antient  city ;  and,  as  a 
place  of  religious  worship,  served  for  other 
purposes  than  that  of  merely  indicating  the 
direction  of  the  Winds,  the  Seasons,  and  the 
Hours.  The  author  of  the  Archaohgia  Graca 
seems  to  have  entertained  this  opinion,  by 
calling  it,  after  W/ieler,  a  Temple  of  the  Eight 
Winds*. 

We  then  went  to  the  bazar,  and  inspected  the 
market.  The  shops  are  situate  on  the  two  sides 
of  a  street  lying  to  the  north  of  the  Acropolis, 
which  is  close  and  parallel   to  the  wall  and 


(1)  Antiquities  of  AtMtns,  tol.  III.  c.  3.    LomL  1709. 
(S)  AictooL  Grmc.  voL  I.  e.  8.  p.  35.    ImkL  1731. 


270  ATHENS. 

chap,  columns  of  a  magnificent  building  of  the  Corin- 

v^  thian  order.   The  entablature,  capitals,  and  parts 

stature*  of  the  shafts  of  these  columns,  may  be  viewed 

Corinthian  from  the  street ;  but  the  market  is,  for  the  most 

er"      part,   covered   by  trellis- work  and  vines.      So 

little  is  known  concerning  the  history  of  this 

building,  that  it  were  vain  to  attempt  giving  an 

account  of  it.      Spon1,  Wheler\  and  Le  JRotf, 

call  it  the   Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympius.     The 

temples  of  Jupiter  were  generally  not,  like  this 

building,  of  the  Corinthian,  but  of  the  Doric 

order :  the  same  objection,  however,  applies  to 

the   received  opinion  concerning  those  columns 

of   Hadrian  near  the   Ilissus,  which  are  now 

believed    to    have    belonged    to    that    temple. 

Stuart  considered  this  Corinthian  structure  near 

the  bazar  as  the  Stoa,   or  portico,  which  was 

called  PoiAile*  or  Pcecile.     A  fine  view  of  the 

bazar,   and   also  of  the  building,   is   given   in 

Le  Roy's  work5.     It  is  highly  probable  that  the 

The  Ba-  bazar  is  situate  upon  the  antient  market  of  the 


zar. 


(l)Voyagede  Grice,  etdu  Levant,  fait  auz  annees  1675  et  1076, 
torn.  II.  p.  107.    a  la  Haye,  1724. 
(2)  Journey  into  Greece,  p.  891.     Lond.  1682. 
(2)  Raines  des  Monumens  de  la  Grice,  p.  10.    Paris,  1758. 

(4)  See  Stuart's  Athens,  vol.  I.  c.  5.    Lond.  1762.     Also  vol.  III. 
Plan  of  the  Antiquities.    Land.  1704. 

(5)  See  Plate  X.  Ruines,  &c.    Pans,  1758. 


ATHENS.  171 

inner  Ceramicus,  and  near  to  the  site  of  the    chap. 

v. 

greater  Agora,  from  the  circumstance  of  the 
Inscription  mentioned  by  Span  and  by  Wheler, 
containing  a  decree   of  the  Emperor  Hadrian 
relating  to  the  sale  of  oil,  which  was  found  upon 
the  spot6.     And  if  this  be  true,  the   Corinthian 
edifice  may  be  either  the  old  Forum  of  the  inner 
Ceramicus,   called   APXAIA  AIX)PA,  where  the 
public  assemblies  of  the  people  were  held,  which 
is  the  most  probable  conjecture  as  to  its  origin, 
or  the  remains  of  the  Temple  of  Vulcan,  or  of 
Venus  Urania ;  for  the  Doric  portico  which  Stuart 
believed  to   have    belonged   to  the   Agora1  is 
exactly  in  a  line  with  the  front  of  this  building ; 
and  its  situation  corresponds  with  that  of  the 
portico  called  BasiUum  by  Pausamas,  beyond 
which  the  Temple  of  Vulcan  stood8.     The  mea- 
sures for  dry  things,  in  the  bazar,  were  fashioned 
in  the  antient  style,  and  of  the  materials  for- 
merly used,  being  made  of  white  marble ;  but 
their    capacity    has    been   adapted   to  modern 


(8)  See  Spony  as  abore,  p.  106.  Wheler,  p.  889.  KiXtvepa  vofupbv 
Otov  "ASptavov,  c.  r.  X.  See  alto  the  Plan  of  Athens,  eograTed  aa  a 
Viemette  to  the  preceding  Chapter. 

(7)  Antiquities  of  Athens,  toL  I.  c.  1.  p.  3.    LontL  1762. 

(8)  Txip  Ik  rbv  Kipapuxbv  ttaX  aro&v  n}v  Kakovukvnv  BavCktiov, 

waff  Imrtv  BfaUrroy Trknoiov  H  Up6v  ivriv  'Afpodlrnc 

0*>«W«f.    Pmmm*Attka,c.M.p.S6.    Lip*.  1696. 


272  ATHENS. 

chap,  customs :    instead  of  the  medimnus,  the  chcenix, 
v. 

and  the  xestes,  we  found  them  to  contain  two 


quintals,  one  quintal,  and  the  half  quintal.     The 
population  population  of  Athens  amounts  to  fifteen  thousand, 

and  Trade   *    * 

of  Athens,  including  women  and  children.  The  principal 
exports  are  honey  and  oil :  of  the  latter  they 
send  away  about  five  vessels  frieghted  an- 
nually. Small  craft,  from  different  parts  of  the 
Archipelago,  occasionally  visit  the  Piraeus  and 
the  neighbouring  coast,  for  wood.  The  shops 
maintain  an  insignificant  traffic  in  furs  and  cloth. 
The  best  blue  cloth  in  Athens  was  of  bad 
German  manufacture,  selling  under  the  name 
of  English.  Indeed,  in  almost  all  the  towns  of 
Europe,  when  any  thing  is  offered  for  sale  of 
better  manufacture  than  usual,  it  is  either 
English,  or  said  to  be  English1,  in  order  to 
enhance  its  price. 


(1)  For  the  most  accurate  Information  respecting  the  commerce  of 
Greece,  in  all  its  part*,  the  Reader  is  referred  to  the  publication  of 
Mons.  Beaujour  (Tableau  du  Commerce  de  la  Grcce,  par  Felix  Beau- 
jour,  Ex-Consul  en  Qrece.  Paris,  1800.)  Upon  the  subject  of  "  La 
draperie  Anglaise,"  these  imitations  of  English  cloth  are  mentioned  as 
having  the  preference  o?er  the  original  manufacture.  "  Depuis  cette 
epoque  (1731)  le  credit  de  la  draperie  Anglaise  a  toojours  baiss^.  On  a 
vn  sur  cette  place  le  debit  des  Londres  diminuer  progressivement  par  la 
concurrence  de  nos  londrins,  faits  a  leur  Imitation.  Les  londres  sent 
des  draps  legers  et  grossiers,  ainsi  nommes,  parce  que  les  premiers 
fabriques  furent  etablies  4  Londres.  L'assortiment  etait  d'abord 
infariablement  nn  tiers  Yert,  un  tiers  bleu,  et  un  tiers  garance.  On 
demands  aujourdlrai  des  assortimens  composes  tout  de  bleu."  Tableau 
du  Comm.  torn.  II.  p.  8. 


ATHENS.  273 

The  silversmiths  were  occupied   in   making  chap. 
coarse  rings  for  the  Albanian  women ;  and  the      v. 
poor  remains  of  Grecian  painters  in  fabricating,  suteof  the 
rather  than  delineating,  pictures  of  Saints  and 
Virgins.     Their  mode  of  doing  this  may  serve  Manufec- 
to  shew  how  exactly  the  image  of  any  set  of  p^uL. 
features,  or  the  subject  of  any  representation, 
may   be  preserved   unaltered,  among  different 
artists,  for  many  ages.     The  prototype  is  always 
kept  by  them,  and  transmitted  with  great  care 
from  father  to  son  (for  in  Greece,  as  in  China, 
the  professions  are  often  hereditary,  and  remain 
in  the  same  family  for  a  number  of  generations): 
it  consists  of  a  piece  of  paper  upon  which  the 
outline  and  all  the  different  parts  of  the  design, 
even  to  the  minutest  circumstance,  have  been 
marked  by  a  number  of  small  holes  pricked  with 
the  point  of  a  pin  or  a  needle.     This  pattern  is 
laid  on  any  surface  prepared  for  painting,  and 
rubbed  over  with  finely-powdered  charcoal :  the 
dust  falling  through  the  holes  leaves  a  dotted 
outline  for  the  painter,  who  then   proceeds  to 
apply  the  colours  much  after  the  same  manner, 
by  a  series  of  other  papers  having  the  places 
cut  out  where   any  particular   colour  is  to  be 
applied.      Very   little  skill  is  requisite  in   the 
finishing ;  for,  in  fact,  one  of  these  manufacturers 
might  with  just  as  much  ease  give  a  rule   to 

VOL.    VI.  T 


<?4  ATHENS. 

&tA&  wake  &  picture,  as  a  tailor  to  cat  out  a  suit  of 
V.  clothes :  the  only  essential  requisite  is  a  good 
set  of  patterns,  and  these  are  handed  from 
father  to  son.  Hence  we  learn  the  cause  of 
that  remarkable  stiffness  and  angular  outline 
which  characterize  all  the  pictures  in  the  Greek 
churches:  the  practice  is  very  antient;  and 
although  the  works  of  some  Greek  painters, 
which  yet  remain,  enable  us  to  prove  that 
there  were  artists  capable  of  designing  and 
drawing  in  a  more  masterly  manner,  yet  it  is 
highly  probable  that  the  pictures  of  the  Antients 
were  often  of  this  description.  Whoever  atten- 
tively examines  the  paintings  upon  terra-cotta 
Monockro-yB8e*>  executed  in  the  style  called  Monochra* 
£^0?    matic1,  will  be  convinced  that  such  a  process  was 

Antlenti.  U8ec* »  onty  w^^  *k*8  difference :  the  parts  for  the 
picture  were  either  left  bare,  being  covered  by 
the  pattern,  and  the  whole  surface  of  the  vessel 
which  remained  exposed  was  coated  with  black 
paint ;  or,  cavities  being  cut  out  for  the  figures, 
were  filled  with  the  black  or  white  colour,  and 
the  rest  of  the  vase  possessed  the  natural  hue  of 
the  clay  after  being  baked.     The  latter  process 


(1)  "  Secundam  singulis  coloribus,  «t  monochromaion  dictanvpost- 
qnam  operator  invent*  erst."  Plm.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  xxxr.  e.  3. 
tern.  III.  p.  417.    £.  Bat.  163& 


ATHBN8.  ffflf, 

was  the  toojre  antient ;    ancj  va?es  of  this  de-   GnApk 
scri  prion  are  decorated  with  black,  or  very  rarely      y> 
wjth  white,  figures  and  ornaments  upon  a  red 
ground.    The  fact  is,  that  the  white  colour  ha* 
been  generally  decomposed,  a?4  nothing  remains 
but  the  ground  upon  whjch  it  was  laid.    After  a 
Yase  has  been  discovered  in  an  anient  sepulchre, 
the  white  colour  is  so  fugitive  that  it  }&  some-, 
times  Carried  off  by  the  mefe  proceas  of  wash- 
tog  the  vessel  in  common  wetter,  ^nd  it  never 
i$afets  the  acids  which  are  p$edfor  that  purpose*. 
Tjhe  persons  who  deal  in  these  antiquities,  at 
Naples  and  in  other  parts  of  Italy,  very  com- 
mooly  retouch  and  restore  their  vases,  adding 
a  little  white  paint  where  the  white  colour  has 
disappeared.      The  monochromatic  paintings  of 
the  Antients  sometimes  consisted  of  white  colour 
upon  a  red  or  black  ground :  this  style  of  paint- 
ing was  expressed  by  the  wojd  XevKoypafciif* 
The  most  heautiful  of  the  monochromatic  paintings 
are  those  which    were  executed  upon  .earthen 
vases  when  the  Arts  were  considerably  advanced  : 


(3)  (ArUtot.  Poet.  c.  6.  See  alto  Winkelmann  Hist.  deVArt. 
torn*.  II*.  p.  144*.  Paris,  An  2.)  Sometimes  a  red  colour  waa  singly 
applied  spoil  a  white  ground ;  in  which  style  of  painting  four  pictures 
were  found  in  Heradaneum:  and,  lastly,  there  were  monochromatic 
pAiatiogi  with  a  black  -colour  upon  a  red  ground;  and  upon  the  terra- 
cotta Taaes. 

T   2 


276  ATHENS. 

these  exhibit  red  figures  upon  a  black  ground ; 
the  beautiful  red  colour  being  due  solely  to  the 
fine  quality  of  the  clay :   the  effect  was  after- 
wards heightened  by  the  addition  of  an  outline, 
at  first  rudely  scratched  with  the  point  of  a 
sharp  instrument,  but  in  the  best  ages  of  the 
Arts  carefully  delineated  ;  and  often  tinted  with 
other  colours,  in  so  masterly  a  style,  that  it 
has  been  said  Raphael,  under  similar  circum- 
stances, could  not  have  produced  any  thing 
superior,  either  in  beauty  or  correctness1.     But 
the  vases  which  are  characterized  by  such  per- 
fection of  the  art,  rarely  exhibit  paintings  of 
equal  interest  with  those  fabricated  at  an  earlier 
sera.      The  designs  upon  the  latter  generally 
serve  to  record  historical  events ;  or  they  repre* 
sent  the  employments  of  man  in  the  earliest  ages ; 
either  when  engaged  in  destroying  the  ferocious 
animals  which  infested  his  native  woods,  or  in 
procuring  by  the  chase  the  means  of  his  sub- 
sistence2.    The  representations  upon  the  former 


(1)  8ee  the  obeeiraUon*  of  D'tfoncarri/fc,  Italinski,  Bb  W.  Hamil- 
ton, &c.  &c. 

(9)  Monochromatic  paintings  upon  ivory  hare  been  found  where  it 
might  be  least  expected  that  any  thing  resembling  the  artf  of  Etrttria 
or  of  Greece  would  be  discovered;  namely,  among  the  AleouUm 
Islet,    between   North    America   and    Kamchatka*      The    author 

had 


ATHENS.  $77 

relate  only  to  the  ceremonies  of  the  bath-  and  of  CHAP# 
the  toilet ;  or  to  the  dances,  and  the  games,  as      v. 
they  were  celebrated  at  the   Grecian  festivals. 
The  subject  of  Grecian  painting  has  insensibly 
led  to  that  of  the  terra-cotta  vases,  because  these 
have  preserved  for  us  the  most  genuine  speci- 
mens  of  the  art  as  it  existed  in  the  remotest 
periods  of  its  history ;  and  we  now  see  that  the 
method  employed  by  the  earliest  Grecian  artists 
in  their  monochromatic  painting  is  still  used  by 
Athenian  workmen  in  the  manufacture  of  their 
idol  pictures.     The  silver  shrines  with  which 
such  pictures  are  covered,  especially  in  Russia, 
having  holes  cut  in  them  to  shew  the  feces  and 
hands  of  their  Saints  and  Virgins,  exhibit  exactly 
the  sort  of  superficies  used  upon  these  occasions 
for  laying  on  the  parts  of  the  painting ;   and  it 
is  very  probable  that  the  Russian  painters,  who 
manufacture  these  images  for  sale,  received  from 
the  Greeks,  with  their  religion,  this  method  of 
preparing  them.    A  curious  piece  of  chicanery 
is  practised  by  the  Russian  dealers  in  this  species 
of  holy  craft.     The  silver  shrine  is  supposed  to 


bad  In  hit  possession  an  i?ory  bow,  brought  thence  by  Commodore 
BUHmg$:  on  which  the  natives  were  represented  as  engaged  in 
iahJng ,  Ac :  the  figures,  delineated  in  a  black  colour,  perfectly  re- 
sembled the  paintings  of  the  oldest  terra-cotta  vases. 


8?$  A  THEN  S. 

•  * 

serve  as  a  mete  teasfe  to  inclose  the  sacred  picture ; 

leaving  only  the  small  apertures  before  men 

*■  *       _  

tioned,  for  their  Bogks,  or  Gods,  to  peep  through 
but  afc  the  part  beneath  the  silver  superficies  it 

not  seen,  they  spare  themselves  the  trouble  oi 

.  •  * 

painting  atiy  thing  except  the  face  and  hands  oi 
the  imagfe ;  so  that  if  the  covering,  by  any  acci- 
dent, fell  off,  the  bare  wood  is  disclosed,  instead 
of  the  rest  of  the  picture.  *  But  to  return  to  the 
art  of  painting  among  the  Antient  Greeks :  If 

•  * 

we  except  the  pictures  found  in  HercufaneMi, 
Pompeii,  and  Stabia,  and  the  few  faint  vestiges 

•  •         •  ■ 

upon  marble  statutes,  we  may  despair  of  seefitig 
anything  so  perfect  as  tf*e  specimens  which  site 

*  »    .  •    -  ••>>  ,      •  •       *  •  * 

preserved  upon  terra  cotta  ;  whether  upon  facings 
intended  for  architecture1,  or  upon  vases  found 
in  Grecian  sepulchres.     It  is  evident  that  these 

Origin  or        k  .         r  • 

Painting    pictures  are  purely    Grecian,    because    Greek 

and  Pottery  • 

among  the  inscriptions  so  often  accompany  them;  but  it 
Seems  equally  evident  that  the  Greeks  were 
indebted  for  the  art  to  the  Etruscans.  The  art 
of  making  earthenware  was  transported  from 
Etruria  into  Greece.  The  Romans  also  borrowed 
this  invention  from    the  Etruscans ;    to  whom 


(l.)  Painted  terra  cotta  was  sometime*  used  in  Grecian  buildings,  for 
the  frieze  and  other  ornaments :  or  this  an  example  will*be  gi? en  in  a 
subsequent  description  of  Ruins  in  Epidauria. 


ATHgff*.  470 

Greece  was  indebted  for  many  of  ita  ceremonies  CHAP 
and  religious  institutions8,  and  for  its  mechanics  v.  . 
and  artificers3.  According  to  Heraclides  Ponticus, 
the  inhabitants  of  Etruria  were  distinguished 
to  ail  the  Arts  and  Sciences4 ;  and  before  the 
foundation  of  Horn,  the  art  of  painting  had 
attained  a  high  degree  of  perfection  it)  that 
country  j  for  Pliny  mentions  pictures  at  Ardea 
which  were  older  than  the  birth  of  Hamulus  *. 
This  alone  is  sufficient  to  shew,  that,  in  the  eighth 
ceaiury  before  the  Christian  sera,  and  above  an 
hundred  years  before  the  age  of  Solon,  conse- 
quently before  the  Arts  obtained  any  footing  in 
Greece,  the  same  people  who  taught  the  Greeks 
the  art  of  making  earthenware  were  also  well 
acquainted  wi  th  the  art  of  painting.  In  addition, 
it  may  be  urged  that  the  cities  of  Nola  and  Capua 
were  founded  and  built  by  the  Etruseanf ;  and 
it  is  remarkable  that  the  vases  of  Nola  are  peculiar 


(3)  Plato de Leg. lib.?. 

(9)  PktrtcraUtvp.  Athen.  DUpnos.Kb.  x. 

(4)  In  Fragment,  ad  Cole.    Milan, 

(5)  "  Extant  eertfe  faodieqtie  antlqaiores  orbe  plctone  Arde©  to 
gqHwa  aaerlf,  quibas  equldem  nullas  aequo  demfror  tarn  longo  oe?o 
darantot  in  orbitate  tectl,  velaU  recenter."  Plin.  Hitt.  Nat.  lib.  xxxr. 
(owl  III.  p.  419.    £.  Sat.  1635. 

(6)  Cato  ap.  Fef .  Patere.  lib.  I.  c.  7. 


£30  ATHENS. 

chap    f°r  elegance  of  design  and  excellence  of  work- 
v.^    manship. 

Among  the  few  articles  of  Athenian  cutlery  to 
be  met  with  in  the  market,  we  found  some  small 
knives  and  forks,  with  white    bone    handles, 
inscribed  with  mottoes  in  modern   Greeks  cha- 
racteristic of  the  manners  and  sentiments  of 
the  people  ;  such,  for  example,  as  the  following : 
*P/(a  TravTcov  r&v  kokcov  tariv  rj  <f>tXa/yyvpla9 
"  The  love  of  money  is  the  root  of  all  evils." 
-MrjStva  tcaraQpovuv,    "  You  should  despise  no 
one."    For  the  rest,  nothing  can  be  more  wretch- 
edly supplied  than  Athens  with  the  most  common 
articles  of  use  or  convenience.     The  artists  em- 
ployed for  the  British  Ambassador  were  under 
the  necessity  of  sending  to  Smyrna  to  obtain  a 
wheeled   cart  for  moving  the   marbles  to  the 
Pirceeus,  and  for  all  the  materials  and  imple- 
ments   wanted   in   preparing  cases   to   contain 
them.      No  ladders  could  be  found,  nor  any 


(1)  The  author  hai  not  seen  a  Dissertation  by  the  Abb6  Lanzi,  which 
is  cited  in  a  work  published  by  the  Society  of  Dilettanti  (entitled 
"  Specimens  of  Antient  Sculpture,"  Land.  1800.)  as  containing  proof 
that  the  Etruscans  {See  the  Observations  facing  Plate  17.)  "  followed 
the  improvements  of  the  Greeks  at  a  respectful  distance,  and  bad  no 
pretensions  to  that  venerable  antiquity  in  the  Arts  which  has  been 
assigned  to  them." 


ATH  ENS. 


28* 


instruments  proper  for  making  them.     It  was  chap. 
not  possible  to  procure  the  most  ordinary  do-  v^v^ 
mestic  utensils,  nor  a  single  article  of  curriery.* 

Specimens  of   antient   art  are  less  rare    A  Medals 

.  and  Genii. 

goldsmith  sold  to  us  some  beautiful  gold  medals, 
of  Alexander  and  of  Philip,  for  doable  their 
weight  in  Venetian  sequins.  He  had  several 
gems  of  great  beauty  in  his  possession,  but  he 
estimated  them  as  if  he  intended  to  make  his 
fortune  by  the  sale  of  them.  Some  of  these  are 
perhaps  now  in  England.  One  of  them  was  a 
small  red  and  white  sardonyx  camio :  the  sub- 
ject, Jupiter,  in  his  war  with  the  Giants,  hurling 
the  thunder ;  the  god  being  represented  in  a 


(3)  A  couple  of  old  Turkish  raddles,  which  had  belonged  to  the  late 
Mr.  TweddeU,  were  first  recommended  and  afterwards  sold  to  as  by 
SfritBan  Logotheti,  the  English  Consul,  at  an  enormous  price,  as  his 
*wb  property :  possession  In  Athens,  as  elsewhere,  with  regard  to 
Mr %  TwtddetVs  effects,  being  considered  equal  to  u  nine  points  of  the 
lav."  He  knew  Tery  well  that  onr  future  travels  in  Greece  depended, 
in  a  gnat  measure,  upon  this  acquisition,  and  be  took  care  to  profit  by 
the  occasion.  All  subsequent  travellers  have  noticed  his  rapacity. 
When  Stuart  was  in  Athens,  he  met  with  similar  treatment  from  our 
Consul ;  and  as  long  as  these  situations  are  held  by  Greeks,  Englishmen 
who  visit  this  country  will  be  liable  to  their  exactions.  Hardly  a 
day  passed  without  a  demand  from  this  man  for  money,  under  some 
pretext  or  other.  This  note  is  therefore  Inserted  as  a  caution  to  the 
number  of  our  countrymen  now  visiting  Greece ;  that  they  may  have 
as  little  intercourse  as  possible  with  Greeks  calling  themselves  English 
Consuls,  or  really  acting  in  that  capacity. 


28f  A  T  H  B  H  8. 

chap.    caP#  with  four  horses :  the  workmanship  of  this 
wvW    cameo  was  exceedingly  fine1.     The  author  also 
obtained  here,  for  forty  piastres,  the  fine  silver 
tetradrachm  of  Lysxmackus  exhibiting  the  por- 
trait of  Alexander  the  Cheat,  which  he  caused 
to  be  engraved  for  a  Dissertation  upon  the  Soros 
brought  from  Alexander's  Tomb ;  and  he  after- 
wards procured,  from  an  A  Ibanian  family,  a  sil- 
vfer  medal  of  Athens,  of  equal  size,  and  almost 
a    hora    *4ual  beauty.    The  well-known  symbol  of  the 
explained.  ^^  Afnphara,  lying  horizontally  upon  the  re- 
verses of  Athenian  medals,  has  never  received 
any  satisfactory  illustration.    It  is  accompanied 
by  an  owl,  and  the  bird  is  represented  sitting  upon 
the  vessel.    The  mythological  principle  implied 
by  the  one  may  therefore  be  supposed  to  have 
an  allusion  also  in  the  other ;  and  that   this  is 
true,  and  that  the  principle  so  expressed  was 
passive  as  to  its  nature,  may  be  clearly  shewn  by 
reference  to   a  few  facts.      The  owl  was  the 
symbol  of  Pallas,  because  it  denoted  the  priva- 
tion or  the  absence  of  light ;  and  the  author  has 


(1)  The  same  subject  is  represented,  bat  with  the  addition  of  the 
Giants  and  their  serpent  legs,  precisely  after  the  same  manner,  bj  the 
fine  antique  engraved  in  the  Pari*  edition  of  Winkelmann't  Works. 
Voy.  CEuvru  compUt*  de  Winkdaumn,  tarn.  II.  lib.  if.c8.ji.  116. 
Paris,  An  2. 


(3)  See  "  Greek  Marbles,  p.  90.  also  Append,  p.  79. 

(3)  A  marble  amphora  of  this  description  is  in  the  Collection  of 
Greek  MafbUs  at  Cambridge :  ft  was  found  upon  the  shore  of  the 
PrapontU  ;  and  presented  by  Spencer  Smith,  Bsq.  late  Minister  Pleni- 
potentiary at  the  Ottoman  Porte,  brother  of  Sir  Sidney  Smith, 

(4)  The  place  is  called  Ovidiopol  by  the  Russians.  There  is  an  en - 
graved  representation  of  the  interior  of  the  tomb  in  PaUas*s  Trarels 
through  the  South  of  Russia,  toI.  IT.  p.  244. 

Voy.  Recherche*  sarl'Origin  des  Arts,  &c. 


ATHBHS.  283 

prored,  upon  a  former  occasion1,  that  Polios,  or 
the  whole  body  of  female  Divinities  whom  this 
Goddess  was  supposed  to  personify,  Qt  Night, 
or  Silence,  or  Death,  or  any  other  sign  of  priva* 
Am,  was  bat  a  type  of  the  passive  principle :  con- 
sequently, the  void  amphora,  or  the  Gorgonian 
head  (which  Pallas  bore  upon  her  jSSgis,  and 
which  also  often  appears  with  the  amphora  upon 
the  medals  of  Athens),  or  the  owl,  or  the  mytho- 
logical principle  denoted  by  any  one  of  these, 
was  an  allusion  to  the  sleep  of  Nature,  and  must 
have  been  considered  as  the  memento  mori  of  the 
Pagan  world.  For  a  decisive  proof  of  this,  it 
May  be  uqged,  that  the  form  of  the  amphora 
itself  was  sometime*  given  to  the  Sttlt,  as  a 
sepulchral  monument*.  A  tomb  was  opened  in 
the  SoHth  of  Russia,  containing  on  either  Bide  of 
it  a  void  amphora  leaning  against  the  Soros*. 
Sometimes  the  Antients  represented  a  winged 
Sphinx  as  sitting  upon  an  empty  amphora? ;  and 


284  ATHENS. 


chap,  the  Sphinx,  as  it  is  well  known,  is  one  of  the 
n^v*-/  sepulchral  monuments  in  the  great  coemetery  of 
Memphis.  The  same  vessel  was  made  an  ac- 
companiment of  Charon  and  Hermes  when  con- 
ducting P&cyhe,  or  the  Soul,  to  Hades,  as  this 
subject  is  represented  upon  the  Gems  of  Qreecd. 

Proceeding  through  the  inhabited  part  of  the 
city,  towards  the  north-west,  a  little  beyond  the 
Corinthian  structure  to  which  we  have  so  lately 
alluded,  we  came  to  an  extensive  Ruin,  encum- 
bered with  modern  buildings;  which    Stuart, 
from  the  imperfect  survey  he  was  able  to  make 
of  it,  considered   as  the  Gymnasium  of  Pto- 
ptofejMeumLEMY*.     Its  vicinity  to  the  Temple  of  Theseus 
renders  this  highly   probable.      Stuart  indeed 
speaks  of  its  plan ;  but  he   has  not    given  it. 
Concealed  as  it  is  by  dwellings,  and  greatly 
dilapidated,   we   have   not   even    attempted   to 
supply  what  that  able  architect  and  inquisitive 
traveller  did  not  feel  himself  authorised,  from 
the  state  of  the  Ruin,  to  communicate. 


(1)  See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter ;  from  a  $carabaan  gem  in  the 
author's  possession.  Mercury,  in  this  representation  appears  to  be 
offering  the  cake  of  floor  and  honey  to  appease  Cerberus.  VuL 
Arittoph.  in  Lyeitt.  v.  601.  Schol.  ib.  Id.  in  Eccles.  v.  534. 

(2)  See  vol.  III.  p.  3.  Antiq.  of  Athene.  Land.  1704. 


ATHENS.  £85 

As  we  passed  through  the  town,   there  was     chap. 
hardly  a  house  that  had  not  some  little  marble  «^»y*w 
fragment  of  antient  sculpture  stuck  in  its  front,  ^MoTea. 
over  the  door ;   and   since  most  of  the  houses 
have  court-yards,  where  the  objects  within  are 
concealed  from  the  observation  of  passengers  in 
the   streets,   many  valuable  antiquities  will  be 
brought  to  light  as  Athens  becomes  more  visited. 
The  few  articles  which  we  collected,  during  our 
residence    here,    may    be   considered    as    pro- 
mising  indications  of  future  acquisitions  of  the 
same  nature.     In  the  yard  belonging  to  the  house 
where  we  resided,   there  were  two  Bas-reliefs; 
and  although  the  workmanship  in  each  of  them 
is  not  characterized  by  the  masterly  style  and 
execution  which  distinguishes   the  sculpture  in 
the  Acropolis,  yet  it  is  easy  to  perceive  that 
they   have    been   touched   by  the  hand   of  an 
Athenian  artist.     They  were  both  given   to  us 
by  our  hostess,  the  first  day  after  our  arrival ; 
and  they  are  now  in  the  University  Library  at 
Cambridge.     One  of  them  represents  the  initia- 
tion of  Hercules  by  a  priestess  of  Ceres?;  and  it 


(3)  This  ceremony  is  said  to  hare  taken  place,  not  at  Eleueie,  but 
at  the  Temple  of  Ceres  in  Agra,  where  the  letter  mysteries  were  cele- 
brated. Vid.  Stephan.  in  lib.  MeursU  de  Popuiis  A  ttic*,  ap.  Gnmov. 
Tkee.Grcc.Antvi.vol.lv. p.  MS.    Lug.  Bat.  1099. 


£86  ATHENS. 

c***p-    is  singular  that  the  figure  of  Hercules  \s  draped 
Hie  other  exhibits  a  female  figure,  seated,  t< 
whom  a  male  is  presenting  a  new-born  infant 
The  Grecians  were  accustomed  to  consign  tbei; 
newly-born  children  to  the  tutelar  care  of  8ora< 
Deity,  upon  the  fifth  day  after  their  birth  :  upor 
this  occasion  they  went  in   white  robes,  witl 
their  feet  bare.     But  the  figure  in  this  bas-reliej 
carrying  the  child  may  allude  to  a  circumstance 
which   occurred  in  the  life  of.  Caligula,  whe 
placed  his  infant  daughter,  Lima  Drusilla,  in  the 
lap  of  the  protecting  Minerva.    The  sculpture  ia 
remarkable  for  the  ease  and  freedom  which  it 
displays.     It  is  a  very  uncommon  circumstance 
to  have  these  things  pointed  out  by  a  Turk : 
but  we   had  this   good    luck;   in  passing   the 
door  of  a   Turkish  house,  its  owner  hailed  us 
with   the  usual   appellation, — "Bjowrs!  here  w 
some  rubbish  suited  to  your  taste :  take  it  off  my 
premises!"  He  had  found  in  his  garden,  among 
some  old  foundations,  the  half  of  a  marble  bas- 
relief,  which  represented  the  annual  procession 
of  the  Athenian  citizens,  with  their  youth,  to  th$ 
ceremony  of  initiation   at  Eleusis ;   and  for  a 
trifle  he  allowed  us  to  remove  it,  seeming  to  be 
quite  happy  in  getting  rid  of  a  stone  on  which 
human  figures  were  delineated.     We  saw  also, 
in  one  of  the  streets,  an  ancient  marble  Siktt, 


AT  H  EH  8.  287 

lying  horizontally ,  and  serving  as  a  horse-block,     g^ap. 
When  we  draw  near  to  examine  it,  we  disco- 
▼ered  that  it  had  been  placed  upon  the  Tomb 
of  Euclid   of  Hermione,  whom  we  found  to 
be  represented    upon  the   upper    part   of  the 
pillar,  standing  beneath  an  arch,  in  a  philoso- 
pher's habit,   and   with   a  scroll  in   his  hand. 
Beneath  this   figure,   near  to  the  base  of  the 
pilar,  and  upon  the   part  of  the  stone  which 
must  have  been  buried   when   the   SUM  was 
erected,  we  observed  the  usual  animal  symbol 
of  ArmbiSy  the  infernal  Mercury,  in  the  form  of 
a  dog,  rudely  sketched  upon  the  surface;  and 
over  the  arched  recess,  containing  the  figure  of 
the  philosopher,  we  read,  in  ver  y  legible  cha- 
racters,   this  Inscription  in   the   Doric  dialect, 
remarkable   for  the   variation   in   the   genitive 
ease: 

ETKAIAA2  EYKAIAOY 
EPMI0NEY2 

"  EUCLID    SON    OF   EUCLID   OF   HERMOIVE." 

Of  two  celelebrated  philosophers  who  bore  this 
name,  the  disciple  of  Socrates,  as  the  first,  was 
a  native  of  Megara;  and  the  mathematician, 
as  the  second,  flourished  at  Alexandria.  The 
manner  of  the  writing,  the  style  of  the  sculp- 
ture, and  the  form  of  the  arch,  might  induce  an 


288  ATHENS.. 

chap,  opinion  that  this  StiU  was  not  of  antier 
date  sufficient  for  either  of  their  sepulchres 
yet  it  may  be  observed  that  Span1  has  givei 
from  a  medal  struck  at  Megara,  a  portrait  < 
Euclid  the  Wrangler,  with  his  name  on  one  side 
and  that  of  Hadrian  on  the  other ;  and  Bella 
has  published  a  different  coin  (MErAPEON 
with  the  head  of  Euclid,  as  Aulus  GtUim 
describes  it,  "  ricd  velatus"  with  which  tfa 
figure  on  the  StiU  agrees.  Both  represents 
tions  may  therefore  have  been  intended  t 
represent  the  same  individual ;  and  what  fin 
ther  confirms  this  is,  that  whilst  the  reverse  c 
the  medal  exhibits  the  figure  of  Diana,  bearinj 
in  either  hand  a  torch,  as  the  symbol  of  th 
lower  regions  and  of  night,  so  the  dog  on  th< 
Stele,  the  animal  figure  of  Anubis,  is  also  dial 
of  Sirius  at  its  heliacal  setting:  a  significant 
and  appropriate  emblem  of  the  philosopher 
descending  into  the  infernal  shades.  These 
marbles,  together  with  our  other  subsequent 
acquisitions  in  bas-reliefs  and  fragments  found 
in  Athens,  amounting  to  fourteen  pieces  from 
this  city  alone,  are  now  in  the  University 
Library  at  Cambridge :  and  as  the  author's 
account  of  them  is  already  before  the  public,  it 


(1)  Miscell.  Brad.  Antiq.seo.  it.        (2)  Lib.  ▼!.  c  10. 


ATHENS.  289 

will  be  unnecessary  in  this  place  to  notice  the   chap. 
rest5.  v" 


We  accompanied  Signor  Lusieri  to  the  The-  Tkestum. 
8eum  ;  and  having   obtained  admission  to  the 
interior  of  the  temple,  paid  a  melancholy  visit 
to  the    grave    of    that    accomplished     scholar  £^_of 
whose  name  we  had  found  inscribed  upon  the  DBLL- 
pillars  of  Sunium  ;  the  exemplary  and  lamented 
Tweddell4.      It    was    simply  a  small   oblong 


(3)  See  "Greek  Marbles,*  Nos.  x.  xi.  xn.  xv.  xvn.  xvm.xxii. 
XXttj.  xxx.  xxxiii.  xxxv.  xxxvi.  xxxvn.    Cambridge,  1800. 

(4)  Johh  Twbddell,  tbe  eldest  son  of  Francis  Tweddell,  Esq.  of 
Tkrtepwood  in  the  County  of  Northumberland,  was  born  on  the  1st  of 
/■at,  1709;    and  after  passing  through  the  usual  course  of  preparatory 
•Nation,  was  entered  at  Trinity  College,  Cambridge,  where  he  distin- 
ftbbed  himself  by  such  proofs  of  original  genius  as  are,  perhaps, 
vithout  example,  even  in  the  records  of  that  learned  Society.    As 
a  candidate  for   University   honours,  his  "  Prolusiones  Academical9 
tttcsthis  success  to  have  been  equally   brilliant   and   extraordinary, 
tad  supersede  the  necessity  of  particular  illustration.    Mr.  Tweddell 
«ii  elected  a  Fellow  of  Trinity  College  in  1708,  and  soon  afterwards 
«*taed  himself  a  Student  of  Lincoln  $  Inn,  where  he  kept  his  terms, 
»d  cootiuoed  to  reside  until  the  year  1705,  when  he  left  England  to 
ttttaeaee  bis  travels  on  the  continent  of  Europe— and  met  with  that 
"•thaely  fate  which  has  mixed  his  ashes  with  those  of  the  sages  and 
pfcflosopbers  of  Greece.     He  visited  Switzerland,  Germany,  most  parts 
•*  the  Russian  Empire,  and  particularly  the  Crimea,  where  his  inter- 
*"**«  with  Professor  Pallas  was  of  the  most  Intimate  kind,  and  had 
*  taoeared  him  to  that  amiable  scholar,  that  the  admiration  with 
**kh  he  spoke  of  him  partook  of  the  tenderness  and  affection  of  a 
*ther.    From  the  borders  of  the  Euxine,  where  his  researches  were 
"**  diligent  and  productive,  he  proceeded  to  Constantinople;  and 

VOL.   VI.  U  mtUr 


290  ATHENS. 

chap,  heap  of  earth,  like  those  over  the  comm< 
graves  in  all  our  English  church-yards,  witho 
stone  or  inscription  of  any  kind.  The  bod 
too,  had  been  carelessly  interred :  we  were  to 
that  it  did  not  lie  more  than  three  or  four  fi 
beneath  the  surface.  The  part  of  the  temj 
where  it  has  been  buried  is  now  converted  ir 
a  Greek  church,  dedicated  to  St.  George ;  but 
it  is  left  open  during  particular  times  of  t 
year,  and  is  always  liable  to  be  entered 
foraging  animals  who  creep  into  such  retrea 
we  thought  it  probable  that  the  body  would 
disturbed  unless  further  precaution  were  use* 
and  at  any  rate  it  was  proper  that  some  sto 
should  be  laid  upon  the  spot.  Having  therefc 
obtained  permission  to  take  up  the  coffin,  a: 


after  spending  tome  part  of  the  summer  of  1798  under  the  hospib 
roof  of  Spencer  Smith,  Esq.  the  English  Minister,  he  took  his  depart 
for  the  Grecian  Islands ;  and  having  traversed  the  provinces  of  Jf 
donia,  and  Thessaly,  arrived  at  Athens;  where,  after  a  resident 
several  months,  he  reached  the  period  of  all  his  learned  laboors,  on 
25th  of  July 9 1799. 

Mr.  TweddeU,  independent  of  the  advantages  which  his  own  n 
secured  for  him  in  the  countries  which  he  visited,  possessed  ree 
mendations  and  facilities  of  a  superior  kind  for  conducting  his  lear 
pursuits ;  and  his  industry  keeping  pace  with  his  talents  and  op] 
tunities,  his  Collections  and  Manuscripts  are  known  to  have  been  ex1 
sive  and  singularly  valuable.  Perhaps  no  traveller  of  modern  ti 
has  enjoyed  in  an  equal  degree  the  means  of  investigating  the  Anti 
ties  of  Greece. 


ATHENS.  291 

Lmtri  promising  to  superintend  the  work,  we  chap. 
endeavoured  to  provide  a  proper  covering  for  the 
grave;  promising  to  send  an  inscription  worthy 
of  the  name  it  was  destined  to  commemorate. 
Large  blocks  of  Pentelican  marble  from  the 
Parthenon,  which  had  been  sawed  from  the  bas- 
rt&tfs  intended  for  our  Ambassador,  were  then 
lying  in  the  Acropolis  ready  for  the  purpose :  we 
therefore  begged  for  one  of  these ;  and  before 
we  left  Athens,  every  thing  had  been  settled, 
and  seemed  likely  to  proceed  according  to  our 
wishes1. 

This  beautiful  Doric  temple,  more  resembling, 


(1)  A  curious  tort  of  contest  bat,  however,  since  impeded  the  work 
Other  English  travellers  arrived  in  Athens;  and  a  dispute  arose, 
by  the  feuds  and  jealousies  of  rival  artists  and  opposite 
in  politics,  both  as  to  the  nature  of  the  inscription,  and  the 
who  should  be  allowed  to  accomplish  the  work.  At  length,  it 
k  said,  that,  owing  to  the  exertions  of  Lord  Byron,  and  another 
asst  enterprising  traveller,  John  Fiott  Lee,  LL.D.  of  St.  John's  Col- 
law*  Cambridge*  the  stone  has  been  laid  ;  and  the  following  beautiful 
Bptaph,  composed  by  Mr.  Walpole  in  1805,  has  been  inscribed  thereon. 
EStoc  if  fOifiivourr  fidrnv  Sof iifc  wor*  tfptyac 

"AvOta,  kcu  0<  yiov  Movtr'  tyiXjf  <rc  parnv. 
'AAA4  p&roY  rot  oiua  to  yijivov  du^ucaXv-wrti 

Twfifioc  rj}y  ^v\^v  ovpavoQ  aiirvg  fytu 
*H/u*  9*  hi  fftfikot,  fiXov  wf,  tard  Sdxpv  %iovTic,, 

Mrtjfta  fiko+poeivnc.,  x\*p6v,  6cvpoui9a, 
*H£*  y*  ofimc  kcu  rtpxvbv  ix*w  rovr*  tonv,  'A0HN  AIX 
~Qc <rv,  fipiravvoQ  twv,  Ktiatai  Iv  owoSig. 

u  2 


292 


ATHENS. 


chap,   in  the  style  of  its  architecture,  the  temples  ol 
Wv    Pcestum  than  that  of  Minerva  in  the  Acropolis. 

Descrip-  .    . 

tjonofthe  and  the  most  entire  of  any  of  the  remaining 
structures  of  Antient  Greece,  were  it  not  for  the 
damage  which  the  sculptures  have  sustained, 
may  be  considered  as  still  perfect.  The  ruined 
state  of  the  metopes  and  frieze  has  proved  indeed 
a  very  fortunate  circumstance  ;  for  it  was  owing 
solely  to  this  that  the  building  escaped  the 
ravages  which  were  going  on  in  the  Parthenon. 
Lusieri  told  us  there  was  nothing  but  what  was 
considered  as  too  much  mutilated  to  answer  the 
expense  and  difficulty  of  taking  it  down1.  The 
entire  edifice  is  of  Pentelican  marble  :  it  stands 
east  and  west,  the  principal  front  facing  the  east; 
and  it  is  that  kind  of  building  which  was  called 
by  antient  architects,  as  it  is  expressed  in  the 


(1)  Accordingly  we  read,— t(  As  the  walls  and  columns  of  thb 
monument  are.  in  their  original  position,  no  part  of  the  sculpture  has 
been  displaced,  nor  the  minutest  fragment  of  any  kind  separated  from 
the  building."  (Memorandum,  p.  \%.  Lond.  1811.)  There  is  nothiaf 
said  here  of  the  "  impending  ruin"  (Ibid.  p.  8.)  to  which  the  remaining 
sculpture  is  exposed ;  nothing  of  "  the  zeal  of  the  ear]y  Christians" 
(p.  11.)  and  "the  barbarism  of  the  Turks:"  but  we  are  told  that 
"  the  temple  itself  (p.  19. J  is  very  inferior  in  decorative  sculpture  la 
the  Parthenon;"  and  this  remark,  made  with  great  naivete',  most 
happily  explains  the  hair-breadth  escape  of  the  building  from  the  ill- 
judged  rapacity  which  has  tended  to  the  ruin  of  the  noblest  monuments 
of  Greece. 


\ 


\ 


ATHENS. 


293 


language  of  Vitruvius,  and  explained  by  Stuart,    chap. 
a  Peripteros  ;  that  is  to  say,  it  has  a  portico  of  ^ 
six  columns  in   each  front,  and  on   each   side 
a  range  of  eleven   columns,   exclusive   of  the 
columns  on   the  angles.      All    these   columns 
remain  in  their  original  position,  excepting  two 
that  separated  the  portico    from    the  proriaos, 
which  have  been  demolished.     Every  circum- 
stance  respecting  them  has  already  been  often 
detailed.     Like  all   pillars  raised  according  to 
the  most  antient  Doric  style  of  buildiug,  they 
are  without  bases  or  pedestals ;  standing,  with 
inexpressible  dignity  and  simplicity3,  upon  the 
pavement  of  the  covered  walk  around  the  cell 
of  the  temple.     Some  of  the  metopes  represent 
the  labours  of  Hercules ;  others,  the  exploits  of 
Theseus;  and  there  are  some  which  were  never 
adorned  with  any  sculpture.     Above  the  antes  of 
the  pronaos  is  a  sculptured  frieze,  the  subject  of 


(*)  See  Stuart's  Athens,  vol.  III.  p.  5.    Lond.  1704. 
(3)  *  The  awful  dignity  and  grandeur  in  this  kind  of  temple,  arising 
from  the  perfect  agreement  of  its  parts,  strikes  the  beholder  with  a 
sensation  which  he  may  look  for  in  rain  In  buildings  of  any  other 

description There  is  a  certain  appearance  of  eternal 

duration  in  this  species  of  edifice,  that  gives  a  solemn  and  majestic 
feeling;  while  every  part  is  perceived  to  contribute  its  share  to  this 

character  of  durability These  considerations  will 

convince  us,  that  no  material  change  can  be  made  in  the  proportions 
of  the  genuine  Doric,  without  destroying  its  peculiar  character."  See 
Revelry's  Pre/,  to  vol.  III.  of  Stuart's  Athens,  p.  14.    Lond\  1794. 


294  ATHENS. 

chap,  which  cannot  now  be  determined ;  and  the 
battle  of  the  Centaurs  and  Lapitha  is  represented 
upon  a  similar  frieze  of  the  posticus.  In  the 
tympanum  of  the  pediment,  over  the  eastern  front, 
Stuart  observed  several  holes  in  the  marble, 
where  metal  cramps  had  been  fixed  for  sus- 
taining sculpture  in  entire  relief,  as  over  the 
eastern  entrance  to  the  Parthenon1.  The  action 
of  the  atmosphere,  in  this  fine  climate,  upon  the 
marble,  has  diffused  over  the  whole  edifice,  as 
over  all  the  buildings  in  the  Acropolis,  a  warm 
ochreous  tint,  which  is  peculiar  to  the  ruins  of 
A  (hens :  it  bears  no  resemblance  to  that  black 
and  dingy  hue  which  is  acquired  by  all  works 
in  stone  and  marble  when  they  have  been 
exposed  to  the  open  air  in  the  more  northern 
countries  of  Europe,  and  especially  in  England. 
Perhaps  to  this  warm  colour,  so  remarkably 
characterizing  the  remains  of  antient  buildings 
at  Athens,  Plutarch  alluded,  in  that  beautiful 
passage2  cited  by  Chandler1,  when  he  affirmed, 

(1 )  See  Stuart's  Athens,  vol.  HI.  p.  2.    Land.  1794. 

(2)  "09 tv  Kai  paWov  Oav/ia&rat  ra  UipucXiovc  ?p?a  irpAg  wokir 
Xpovov  iv  6\iy<f>  ytvofitva,  koXXii  fikv  yap  txaorov  ti/0$£  $v  r6rt 
apxdiov,  axpy  3i  ui%P*  v*>y  "xpba+aThv  Ian  Kai  vtovpySv  o$tvc  IwavBu 
r*c  KaivoTtjc  ati  &9iktov  vwb  rov  gprfvov  itartipovva  rqv  fyiv,  Q2IIEP 
AEI6AAE2  IINEYMAKAI  YYXHN  ArHPQ  KATAMEMirMENHN 
TON  EPrQN  EXONTON.  Plutarch.  in  Vit.  Pericl.  torn.  L  p.  SOS. 
land.  1720. 

(3)  Tra?.  io  Greecetc.  0.  p.  30.    Oxford,  1776. 


A  THE  KB.  295 

that  the  structures  of  Pericles  possessed  a  pecu-  chap. 
liar  and  unparalleled  excellence  of  character ; 
"a  certain  freshness  bloomed  upon  them,  and  pre- 
served  their  faces  uninjured,  as  if  they  possessed 
a  aever-fading  spirit,  and  had  a  soul  insensible  to 
age."  In  the  description  given  of  the  Theseum 
by  Pausamas,  he  mentions  rPA$AI  among  the 
decorations4;  and  Chandler  gives  this  word  as 
be  found  it  in  the  original  text  of  that  author5, 
without  rendering  it,  as  some  have  done, 
"pictures"  or  "painted  representations."  The 
very  subjects  of  those  representations  corre- 
spond with  the  remaining  sculptures  upon  the 
metopes  and  frieze ;  and  Mycon,  who  is  men- 
tioned as  the  artist,  was  a  statuary  as  well  as 
a  painter.  The  history  of  the  hero,  to  whose 
memory  this  magnificent  building  was  erected, 
resembles,  as  to  its  probability,  one  of  the 
extravagant  fictions  of  the  "  Arabian  Nights ;" 
and  may  be  regarded  as  upon  an  equality  with 
the  "  Voyages  of  Sinbad"  or  the  "  Story  of 
Aladdin."  That  it  was  originally  a  tomb,  like 
all  other  Grecian  temples,  can  admit  of  no  doubt : 
eight  hundred  years  had  elapsed,  when  Cimon 


(4)  rpa+ai  ii  c/ffi,  c.  r.  X.    Tiypatrrcu  8k  iv  ri$  rov  6i}ffi<i)g  Uptf  cat 
9  Ktvraitpvv  rat  »/  AartQvv  p&xi'    PautanUt  Attica,  c.  17.  p.  40. 

£pt.ieo& 

(5)  Tfftf.in  Greta, c.  14.  p.  71.    Oxf.  177G. 


296  ATHENS. 

chap,  removed  the  precious  relics  from  the  Isle  of 
Scyros,  which  were  here  enshrined ;  and  the 
circumstances  of  the  brazen-headed  lance  and 
sword,  found  with  the  bones  said  to  have 
belonged  to  Theseus,  denote  weapons  of  the 
remotest  ages1:  but  the  manner  in  which  the 
place  of  his  original  interment  had  been  pointed 
out2,  calls  to  mind  the  juggling  of  a  later  period, 
when  the  mother  of  Constantine  sought  to  dis- 
cover the  real  timber  on  which  the  Messiah  had 
suffered  crucifixion :  so  easy  has  it  been  in 
every  age  to  gratify  a  credulous  and  super* 
stitious  people,  by  delusions  of  pretended  mira- 
cles, and  dreams  of  a  particular  Providence 
interrupting  the  order  of  Nature  for  purposes 
the  most  contemptible ;  although  in  the  history 
of  the  world,  few  instances  have  occurred 
where  a  monument  of  equal  magnificence  has 
resulted  from  any  idle  and  stupid  fiction.  The 
building  is  believed  to  bear  date  from  the  event 


( 1 )  EvpiQtj  8k  OrjKfj  rt/ityuXov  avfiaroQ,  aixfirj  rt  icapaxtipivti  %aXKift 
Kai  £t>o£.      Plut.  in  Pit.  Thes.  torn.  I. p.  35.  LontL  1789. 

(2)  ""Hv  tik  Kai  Xaptlv  airopia,  xai  yviZvai  rbv  r&fov,  aptZiai  nu 
XaXtTroTrfTi  t<3v  Ivoucovvtuv  fiapfiapwv.  oitfilv  aWa  xai  Ki/ittv  tkinr 
n)v  vtjcov,  <uf  iv  rotQ  irtpi  Utivov  yeypavrai,  koI  ft\oTipovfttvo{ 
llavtvptiv,  AETOY  TINA  TODON  BOYNOEIAH  KOHTONTOr,  *£ 
faai,  rtf  ar opart  Kai  £ia<rri\Xoirof  rolf  5vi>£t,  Oiiai  riW  r»X? 
evptpovriiTac,  aviaKatytv.    Plut,  in  Vit.  Thes.  p.  35.    LoruL  1789. 


ATHENS.  297 

mentioned  by  Plutarch,  both  in  his  Life  of  Oman,  chap. 
and  of  Theseus;  when,  after  the  conquest  of 
Scyros,  the  son  of  Miltiades  arrived  in  Athens, 
bearing  the  mouldering  bones  and  weapons  he 
had  so  marvellously  discovered.  They  were 
received  by  the  Athenians,  says  Plutarch?,  as  if 
Theseus  himself  had  returned  among  them.  The 
solemnity  of  their  interment  took  place  in  the 
very  midst  of  the  city,  near  to  the  Gymnasium4  ; 
accompanied  by  every  splendid  pomp  and 
costly  sacrifice  with  which  the  Athenians,  of  all 
people,  were  the  most  ready  to  appease  the 
manes  of  a  departed  hero.  This  event  happened 
during  the  Archonship  of  Apsephum ;  so  that  the 
Theseum  has  now  braved  the  attacks  of  time, 
of  earthquakes,  and  of  barbarians,  during  a 
lapse  of  considerably  above  two  thousand 
years5 ;  and  its  relative  position  with  regard  to 
the  Gymnasium  renders  it  an  important  point  of 


(3)  "Qpwtp  ahrbv  iirav(px^tAiV0V  'fc  r^  torv.  Ibid. 

(4)  Uapd  rb  vvv  yvfivaciov*    Ibid. 

(5)  The  arrival  of  Cimon  with  the  bones  of  Theseus  happened  in  the 
*me  year  as  the  birth  of  Socrates ;  that  is  to  say,  in  the  fourth  year 
of  the  77th  Olympiad,  468  years  before  Christ,  according  to  Corsini. 
^schtlus  and  Sophocles  then  disputed  the  prize  of  Tragedy,  which 
*is  adjudged  to  Sophocles.  (  Vid.  Chronieon  ex  Marmoribus  Arun- 
klumis,  Epoch,  57.)  If  we  allow,  therefore,  ten  years  for  the  building 
of  the  temple,  (and  five  has  been  considered  a  sufficient  number,)  this 
edifice  has  stood  nearly  twenty-three  centuries. 


298  ATHENS. 

chap,  observation,  whence  the  situation  of  many 
other  buildings  of  the  antient  city  may  be 
ascertained. 


Leaving  the   Theshmu,  we  again  visited  the 
Areopagus;    and   we  detached   from  the  rock 
some   specimens  of  the   remarkable  aggregate 
whereof  this  eminence  consists.     All  the  lower 
part    of   it,   as  before    mentioned,   consists  of 
breccia ;  but  we  found  here  a  sparry  carbonate  of 
lime,  of  a  honey  colour,  exhibiting,  by  fracture, 
imperfect  prisms  ranged  parallel  to  each  other. 
Prom  the  Areopagus  we  proceeded  to  a  little 
chapel,    situate    upon    the    spot    where     the 
Pirmean    antient   Pibjeban   Gate   of    the  city  formerly 
stood :    near    to    this,    as    Pausanias    relates1, 
there  was  a  tomb  with  an  equestrian  statue  by 
Praxiteles.      The    place    where   the    gate   was 
situate  may  still  be  discerned j  and  also  a  part 
of  the  northern  limb  of  the   " long  legs"  fiaxpa 
cncAtj,  extending  from  the  city  to  the  sea.     We 
then  ascended  towards  the  north  of  the  Pirceean 
Gate*,  where  may  still  be  seen,  in  a  state  of  the 
most   admirable  preservation,  the   ground-plot 


(1)  Pautanue  Attica,  c.  2.  p.  6.    Lips,  1696. 

(2)  See  the  Plan  qf  Athens,  engraved  as  a  Vignette  to  the  preceding 
Chapter,  No*.  1,  and  2. 


ATHENS.  299 

and  entire  form  of  the  Pnyx,  or  antient  place    chap. 

v. 
of   Parliament   of   the  Athenians ;    as   it  was 

appropriated  by  Solon  to  the  assemblies  of  the 

citizens3.      This   structure  is  not  likely  to  be 

much  affected  by  the  lapse  of  entire  centuries : 

almost  the  whole  of  it,  even  to  the  pulpitum  for 

the  orators,  which  yet  remains,  is  an  excavation 

of  the  rock ;  and  the  several  parts  of  it  were 

carved  in  stone,   of  one  solid  mass,  with   the 

exception   only  of  the  semicircular  area,   the 

farthest  part  of  which  from  the  pulpitum  consists 

of  masonry4.     In  the  perpendicular  surface  of 


($)  Uvtitf  so  called  did  rb  fcvxvKv&aQai  toiq  X'iOoiq. 

(4)  That  this  place  was  really  the  Pnyx,  is  now  universally  the 
opinion  of  travellers  who  have  visited  Athens,  It  had  been  called 
AftBOPAOUS,  and  Odaum.  Chandler  was  the  first  by  whom  it  waa 
accurately  described.  The  altar  and  stone  pulpit,  which  he  mentions, 
agree  with  its  furniture  as  upon  record.  Chandler  says  these  have 
been  removed;  bat  the  pulpit,  if  not  the  altar,  certainly  remains. 
A  more  attentive  examination  of  the  antiquities  of  Athena,  if  it  effect 
no  change  as  to  the  name  now  given  to  this  place,  will  very  probably 
alter  the  appellations  too  hastily  bestowed  upon  some  of  the  others. 
Perhaps  the  Pnyx  may  be  considered  as  better  ascertained  than  almost 
any  remaining  structure  destitute  of  an  inscription  whereby  it  may  be 
identified ;  and  for  this,  the  literary  world  is  mainly  indebted  to  the 
Sari  of  Aberdeen,  who  carried  on  a  very  extensive  examination  of  the 
spot,  sparing  no  expense  during  an  excavation  which  he  made  here,  to 
hare  this  point  determined.  The  dona  votiva  which  he  discovered  are 
very  remarkable.  (See  the  Extract  from  Mr,  Walpole's  Journal, 
j».199  of  this  Vol.)  But  the  site  of  the  Odium  of  Pericles  is  entirely 
unknown.  It  must  have  stood  at  the  termination  of  the  street  of 
the  Tripods,     The  situation   of  the  Prytantum  remains  also  to  be 

determined ; 


300  ATHENS. 

chap,  the  rock,  facing  this  area,  are  niches  for  the 
votive  tablets;  the  characteristic  and  most 
genuine  marks  of  places  held  in  any  peculiar 
degree  of  consideration  throughout  the  whole 
of  Antient  Greece,  and  in  every  country  where 
her  colonies  extended.  To  approach  the  spot 
once  dignified  by  the  presence  of  the  greatest 
Grecian  orators;  to  set  our  feet  where  they 
stood ;  and  actually  to  behold  the  place  where 
Demosthenes  addressed  the  "Men  of  Athens," 
calling  to  mind  the  most  memorable  examples 
of  his  eloquence j  is  a  gratification  of  an  exalted 
nature.  But  the  feelings  excited  in  viewing  the 
Pnyx  peculiarly  affect  the  hearts  of  Englishmen : 
that  holy  fire,  so  much  dreaded  by  the  Athenian 
tyrants,  and  which  this  place  had  such  a  remarka- 
ble tendency  to  agitate,  burns  yet  in  Britain: 
it  is  the  very  soul  of  her  liberties  ;  and  it 
strengthens  the  security  of  her  laws;  giving 
eloquence  to  her  Senate,  heroism  to  her  arms, 
extension  to  her  commerce,  and  freedom  to  her 


determined ;  and  it  cannot  be  said  tbat  our  evidence  for  identifying 
the  three  great  buildings,  the  Temple  qf  Jupiter  Olympius,  the  Tfoofrc 
of  Regilla,  and  the  Theatre  of  Bacchus,  with  the  remains  which  seve- 
rally bear  either  of  these  appellations,  is  altogether  satisfactory. 
There  is  much  to  be  done  by  future  travellers ;  and  the  excavations 
which  they  may  make,  by  bringing  to  light  many  valuable  documents, 
will  greatly  tend  to  illustrate  the  topography  of  the  city. 


ATHENS.  301 

people:    although  annihilated   in  almost  every   chap. 
country  of  the  earth,  it  lives  in  England;  and 
its  extinction  there,  like  the  going-out   of  the 
ttcred  flame  in  the  Temple  of  Delphi,  would  be 
felt  as  a  general  calamity.     The  circumstances 
connected  with  the  history  of  the  Pnyx  prove 
how  difficult  a  thing  it  was  to  subdue  the  love 
of  freedom  among  the  Aniient  Grecians.     The 
Athenian  tyrants  vainly   imagined  that  it  ori- 
ginated  solely    in    the    position    of  the    0^/a, 
or  stone  pulpit,  whence  the  orators  harangued 
the  people j  forgetting  that  it  is  a  natural  prin- 
ciple implanted    by    Providence  in  the  human 
heart      Under  the  notion  they  had  thus  con- 
ceived, they  altered  the  plan  of  the  Pnyx :  the 
fa*  had  been  fronted  towards  the   sea;   they 
Wonted  it  towards  the  land;    believing  that  a 
people    diverted    from    allusions    to    maritime 
affairs    towards    those    of   agricultural    labour 
would    be    more    easy    under    an    oligarchical 
dominion1.     The  project  was  not  attended  with 
the  consequences  that  were  expected  ;  the  same 
spirit  yet  prevailed  :    but   this   place   was  still 


0)  tabnurb  /Styta  rh  iv  Uvvki  vtTottjfAivov  &<tt'  itropkivtiv  wpbc. 
*♦»  faXaffffay,  %ertpov  o*  rpiaKovra  vpbc  t$v  X"fNiy  airkarpf^ay, 
"ifUftM  n)v  fiiy  Kara  QaXarrav  4px*}v,  ykvtoiv  tlvcu  dti/toKpariaCt 
^TtfXuu  &'  ijrrov  ivaxtpaiyuv  tovc  ytttpyovvrac.  Plutarch*  in 
ftn*f.p.9eg.  torn.  L  Land.  1789. 


302  ATHENS. 

chap,  considered  as  its  source  ;  and  at  last,  finding 
that  alterations  of  the  structure  availed  nothing 
towards  its  dissolution,  the  meetings  in  the 
Pnyx  were  entirely  abolished.  The  place  itself 
has,  however,  been  suffered  to  remain  unaltered 
to  the  present  day,  and  may  serve  to  illustrate 
passages  in  antient  authors  which  before  wert 
hut  imperfectly  understood.  A  very  accurate 
design  of  the  structure,  as  it  now  exists,  has 
been  already  published  by  Stuart,  in  which  the 
/3i?fca  is  represented  :  and  if  it  were  possible  to 
naturalize  this  word,  it  might  be  preferable  to 
any  other,  as  applied  to  the  pulpit,  whence  the 
Grecian  orators  addressed  the  people.  Rostrum 
is  a  Roman  appellation,  and  introduces  associa- 
tions of  a  foreign  nature  :  the  same  remark 
applies  to  Tribunal :  Log  turn,  and  Thymele,  are 
terms  borrowed  from  the  Grecian  theatres: 
it  is  Btma  only  which,  upon  the  authority  of 
Plutarch,  confines  the  name,  and  fixes  the  atten- 
tion, accurately  and  exclusively,  to  the  throne 
of  Grecian  eloquence.  Here  we  find  the  object 
itself  within  the  Pnyx,  fronted  towards  the  city 
and  the  plain,  exactly  as  it  was  left  by  the 
Athenian  Tyrants.  The  altar  is  also  seen ; 
forcibly  illustrating,  at  this  hour,  the  following 
passage  of  the  comic  poet : 

"Oarig  Kparti  vvv  rov  XlOov  rovv  ry  UvvkL 


/ 


ATHENS.  303 

From  this  illustrious  memorial  of  Athenian  chap. 
history,  we  descended  once  more  to  the  Cade,  or  wv^/ 
hollow  way,  of  Pausanias ;  and,  crossing  the  road 
from  the  Piraeus,  passed  the  Crypt  <b  of  the  Hill 
of  Musceus,  and  ascended  to  the  Monument  of  Monument 
Phtlopappus,     standing     upon     its     summit1.  MuUum. 
There  is  no  account   of  this  structure  by  any 
antient  author,  if  we  except  Pausanias;   who 
merely  says   of  it2,  that  in    the   place   where 
Muubus  was   buried   a   monument  was  after- 
wards erected,  ivSpl  26(><p,    without  adding   a 
syllable  as  to  his  name  or   history  ;    which  is 
remarkable,  considering  the  attention   usually 
bestowed  by  him  upon  objects  much  less  worthy 
of  regard.     It  is  within  the  walls  of  the  antient, 
although  at  some  distance   from   those   of  the 
modem  city5 ;  and  the  view  from  hence  of  the 
Gtadel  of  Athens,  the  Sinus  Saronicus,  and  the 
neighbouring     territories,     is     very     striking. 
Looking  towards  the  sea,   the  eye  commands 
the  ports  of  the  Piraeus,  Munychia,  and  Phalerus; 
the  isles  of  Salamis  and  JEgina ;  and  the  moun- 
tains of  Peloponnesus,  as  far  as  the  Gulph  of 
Argos.     The  frequent  mention  of  it  by  other 


0)  See  tiie  Plan  of  Athens,  as  a  Vignette  to  the  preceding  Chapter, 

Ho.  4. 

(*)  Pausani*  Attica,  e.  26.  p.  61.     Lips.  1606. 

(3)  See  the  Plan ;  Vignette  to  the  preceding  Chapter. 


304  ATHENS. 

travellers1,  added  to  the  beautiful  views  of 

several  parts  engraved  for  Stuart's  '•  Antiquiti 

of  Athens*,"  render  any  descriptive  detail  u 

necessary.     It  is  supposed,  from  the  inscriptio 

upon  its,  that  it  was  erected  in  the  beginning 

the  second  century.     Stuart,  in  opposition 

Wheler  and  Spon,  believed  it  to  have  been  raise 

not  in  memory  of  a  single  individual*,  but  " 

honour   of  the  last  king   of   Commagene,  at 

more  than  one  of  his  descendants."    It  original! 

consisted  of  three  compartments  between  foi 

Corinthian  pilasters ;  that  is  to  say,  of  an  arche 

recess,  containing  a  central  sitting  figure,  am 

having  a  square  niche  on  each  side  of  it.     Beloi 

these  appeared  three  superb  sculptures  in  relief 

that  in  the  centre,   beneath  the  sitting  statue 

exhibits  Trajan  in  a  car  drawn  by  four  horsey  a 


(1)  See  Wheler,  Span,  Le  Rcyt  Stuart,  Chandler,  &c.  &c. 

(2)  Vol.  III.  chap. 5.  Plates  1,2,3,4,5,6,7,  8,9, 10, 11.  LontLlW 

(3)  Under  the  figure  in  the  left  niche : 

BASIAEYSANTIOXOrBASIAEQSANTIOXOY 
Under  the  figure  in  the  middle  niche  : 

*IAOnAnn02Eni*ANOY2:BH2AIKYS 

Upon  the  pilaster  between  these  niches  : 

C*  IVLIVS'CF*  FABIA'  AKTI0CHV8*  PHILOPAPPV8  *  COS*  FRATB* 
ARYALIS  *  ALLECTV8  *  XNTBR*  PR ABTORI08  *  AB*  IMP  *  CAESARR'Hl*'* 
TRAIANO  *  OPTIMO  *  A  VGV8TO  *  GEBMANICO  •  DACICO. 

See  Stuart's  Athens,  vol.  III.  e-  « 

(4)  Ibid.  p.  36. 


ATHENS.  305 

he  is  represented  on  many  monuments  of  the  tri-  chap. 
nmphs  of  that  emperor ;  and  his  figure  here  corre- 
sponds with  the  image  of  him  which  is  preserved 
upon  the  arch  of  Beneventum  in  Italy.  On  either 
tide,  in  square  compartments,  were  seen  the 
attendants  preceding  and  following  the  triumphal 
car1.  When  Stuart  visited  Athens,\t  was  not  more 
perfect  than  it  is  now;  but  he  was  fortunate 
enough  to  discover,  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill,  two 
itataes  that  had  stood  erect,  in  Roman  habits ; 
and  these,  being  exactly  in  the  same  style  of 
workmanship  with  the  sculptures  still  zemaining 
on  the  monument,  he  supposed  to  have  stood 
above  the  two  central  pilasters6.  But  if  this  be 
true,  there  were  probably  two  other  figures 
above  the  remaining  pilasters  at  the  sides,  to 
complete  the  symmetry  of  the  work ;  which 
Bright  thus  admit  of  easy  restoration  from  the 
tand  of  an  artist  willing  to  represent  the  whole 
of  this  most  stately  monument  as  it  originally 
*Ppeared.  The  statues  mentioned  by  Stuart 
disappeared  about  thirty  years  after  he  left 
Athens*. 


(5)  An  that  now  remain!  of  this  raperb  itractore  if  exhibited  by  en 
^Citing  annexed  to  the  Quarto  Edition  of  thete  Tra? eU,  Vol.  III.  p. 
^  from  a  Drawing  made  upon  the  spot  by  Preaux,  in  1800. 

W  Sea  Stuart's  Athens,  vol.  Ill .  p.  30. 

(7)  In  17S5.    Se  Stuart's  Athens,  ibid.  Note  (a). 

VOL.    VI.  X 


306  ATHENS. 

Descending  from  the  Museum,  we  observed 
some    remains    of  the  antient  walls  of   the 

^^f  city  upon  its  southern  side,  and  of  the  entrance 
from  Phalerum1.  The  vestiges  of  these  wall* 
also  appear  extending  towards  the  Monument 
ofPhtiopappus,  which  they  inclosed:  thence  they 
bore  off  towards  the  Pirtsean  Gate,  in  a  line  ol 
direction  almost  due  north  and  south*.  After- 
wards, crossing  the  plain,  we  visited  the  Theatbb 

**■"?*    fcfld  Cave  of  Bacchus  ;  and  some  substruction! 

and  Goo* 

of  Bac-  Were  shewn  to  us  by  Signor  Lusieri,  which  he 
conceived  to  be  the  foundations  of  a  templt 
dedicated  also  to  the  same  Deity.  Nothing 
exists  now  of  the  Theatre,  excepting  the  coilon 
for  the  seats,  as  in  the  earliest  ages  of  dramatic 
representation  it  was  universally  formed,  by 
scooping  the  sloping  side  of  a  rock3.  But  how 
majestic,  and  how  perfect  in  its  preservation, 
Monument  rises  the  Choragic  Monument  of  Thrasyttus 
jJtfufT0"  above  this  theatre*!  and  how  sublime  the 
whole  groupe   of   objects  with    which    it  was 


(1)  See  the  Plan,  Vignette  to  the  preceding  Chapter. 

(2)  Ibid.  No.  19. 

(3)  Ibid.  No.  16. 

(4)  Ibid.  No.  14.  The  best  representation  of  it  is  in  Le  B*l 
(*  Burnet  de  la  Grice*  PL  8.  Parte,  1768) ;  now  the  more  TaluabU 
as  the  monument,  in  its  present  mutilated  state,  no  longer  exhibits  tli 
appearance  it  then  presented. 


ATHENS.  307 

associated  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  and  before    chap. 

y 

the  work   of    dilapidation    had    commenced —  wv*w 
the  antient  sun-dial ;  the  statue  of  the  God  ;  the 
pillars  for  the   tripods5;  the  majestic    Citadel! 
The  last  of  these  has  indeed  defied  the  deso- 
lating ravages  of  Barbaric  power ;  but  who  shall 
again  behold  the  other  objects  in  this  affecting 
scene  as  they  then  appeared  ?  or  in  what  distant 
country,  and  obscure  retreat,  may  we  look  for 
their   mutilated    fragments?     Often    as    these 
monuments   had   been   described,    we  observed 
some  things  which  perhaps  have  not  been  before 
noticed.     This  part  of  the  rock  of  the  Acropolis 
consists  of  a  hard   red  breccia,   similar  to  that 
which  was  observed  at  the  Areopagus.    Towards 
the  left  of  the  Monument  of  Thrasyllus  the 
surface  of  the  stone  has  been  planed  perpendi- 
cularly ;  and   here,  beneath  the  two  Choragic 
Pillars,  we  saw,  upon  the  rock,  an  Inscription,  Rem&rka- 
alluded  to,   but  not    copied,  by   Stuart6,   and^/nfcr*' 
mentioned  by  no  other   writer.     It  extends  in 
t*o  parts,  which    may  have  belonged   to  two 
feparate  legends,  one  above  the  other;  but  the 
characters  are  alike  in  both,  and  they  are  deeply 


(*)  See  the  Plan,  No.  13. 

(6)  Antiq.  of   Athens,  vol.  II.  p.  7.    Land.  1787.    Stuart  wrote 
A*B8H2AN  fur  ANK6E2AN. 

X    2 


308  ATHENS. 

chap,  engraven  in  the  stone,  after  the  manner  of  tho* 
Inscriptions  which  we  discovered  at  Jerusalem 
over  the  doors  of  the  tombs  in  Mount  Sum* 
The  only  letters  sufficiently  perfect  to  be  legibl 
are  the  following ;  but  the  termination  of  th< 
upper  line  could  not  be  ascertained,  and  thi 
line  was  remarkably  separated  from  the  lowea 
part  of  the  inscription  by  a  natural  or  artificial 
linear  cavity  in  the  stone : 

AI1EIZWNIANOZAAI    .    .    . 
TFinOCANEOECAN 

la  its  very  imperfect  state,  it  must  be  left  to  <bf 
conjectures  of  the  learned*.  The  important* 
of  its  situation,  and  the  circumstance  of  ill 
never  having  been  published  before,  certainlj 
entitles  it  to  the  Reader's  notice*  As  to  ill 
interpretation,  it  evidently  refers  to  the  erectioi 
of  tripods:  this  appears  both  from  the  worA 
of  the  inscription,  and  from  its  contiguity  to  ftl 
Choragic  Pillars.  The  name  Pisonianus  seen 
to  occur    before    Am;    and  these    letters  maj 


(1)  See  VoL  IV.  of  the  Octavo  Edition  of  these  Travels,  p.  336,  &e. 

(2)  Tpiirog  is  found  in  Hetychius.  The  use  of  the  verb  AvkOteavocOB 
thus  in  Lucia* :  "YXag  dircri/tovro,  cat  Spij  4yt0c*ay,  cai  Spwtm  set** 
9*9**9  ««*  ri  fvra  iwefiifuotw  Udonp  <kf  Monies  dedktnoi,** 
consterArunttunie%tiqu€  Deo* 


ATHENS.  309 

have  reference  to  the  word  A«u/i*>v,  in  one  of  its  chap. 
Mies.  Bacchus  bears  the  title  of  Danum 
throughout  the  Baccha  of  Euripides'.  With 
regard  to  the  Crypt  which  is  behind  the  Monu* 
mmi  of  ThrasyUui,  by  some  called  the  Cave  of 
Baeekusy  and  now  a  Greek  chapel  bearing  the 
sppeHatiob  of  Pamgia  SpiUotissa,  or  the  Blessed 
lady  of  the  Grotto*  it  is  decidedly  mentioned 
by  Pausanias ;  and  his  allusion  to  it,  added  to 
tie  description  which  he  gives  of  its  situation, 
lerves  to  identify  the  Theatre*  He  says  it 
attained  a  tripod,  with  the  figures  of  Apollo  and 
Dicma,  represented  as  destroying  the  children 
tf  Niobtf.  But  its  more  antient  history  may 
pfcibly  refer  to  an  earlier  period  than  that  of 
&e  choraoic  games  of  the  Athenians,  afcd  to 
customs  which  existed  in  Attica  long  before  the 
institution  of  the  Dionysia.  That  it  ought  not 
to  have  been  considered  as  necessarily  asso- 
ciated with  the  structure  now  placed  before  it, 


W*0  Utymv,  o  AU>g  watc.  *.  417.  rbv  taipoy  §Urfipmv  riov.  r. 
***•  f&rtrra  OmfrolQ  SaLftovcu  t.  42.  Ip+avijc  talpuv  /Sporolg.  r.  22, 
«W 1604.)  cr.X.  The  Greek  Writen,  and  especially  the  Poetf, 
■■tftteword  Aaifimv  m  applied  to  a  God,  or  Goddsu. 

(4)  IN  AB  THI  KOPY*>HI  TOY  OEATPOY,  SDHAAION  SSTIN 
**  TA1S  nETPAIS  TOO  THN  AKPODOAIN.  Tpixovg  tkixmrrt 
*t  fttry.  'A*6XVm y  tik  Jv  attrif  *ai  "Aprtfuc  ro*c  wdttac  tleiv 
***ptWTi*  ro*s  Ni40ik,    PauKmiaAttica,c.2l,p.49.    Lips.  1696. 


310  ATHENS. 

chap,   seems  to  be  evident  from  the  circumstance  < 
v. 

w~v^/  the  entrance  being  closed  when  the  building  ws 
added.  Iq  the  inscription  upon  the  middle  < 
the  architrave  and  immediately  over  the  centa 
pilaster  of  the  monument,  no  mention  is  mad 
of  the  grotto :  the  legend  appears  to  refc 
only  to  the  structure  whereon  it  is  inscribed 
From  this  it  may  be  conjectured,  that  the  cav 
was  one  of  the  most  antient  sepulchral  crypt 
of  the  first  settlers  upon  this  rock  ;  there  ai 
many  others  of  a  similar  nature,  fronting  th 
Phalerum  in  the  approach  to  Athens,  and  in  th 
Hill  of  Musceus.  It  is  precisely  in  the  situatio 
where  such  caves  were  often  constructed  fc 
sepulchral  purposes,  by  the  earliest  Grecia 
colonies,  and  by  the  inhabitants  of  all  the  easier 
shores  of  the  Mediterranean;  that  is  to  say 
upon  the  outside  and  beneath  the  walls  of  tin 
Acropolis;  being  hollowed  in  the  rocks  upoi 
which  their  citadels  were  erected.  Instances  o 
this  custom  have  been  mentioned  more  thai 
once,  in  the  former  parts  of  this  work8.    Hen 

Joe  Plant,  we  were  gratified  by  finding  the  Ice-plan 
(Mesembryanthemum  crystallinum  Linn.)  sprout 
ing  luxuriantly,  in  its  wild  and  native  state 


(1)  See  Chandler's  Trav.  In  Greece, p.  63.    Oxf.  1776. 

(2)  See  Vol.  II.  of  the  OcUto  Edition  of  these  Travels,  Cbsp.    ^ 
p.    09. 


ATHENS.  311 

among  the  rains :  it  was  now  in  seed' ;  and  we  chap. 
collected  the  capsules  to  send  to  England?. 
This  was  the  only  spot  in  all  Greece  where  we 
remarked  this  plant.  The  observations  of  former 
travellers  prove  it  to  be  an  Athenian,  plant5 ;  yet 
it  had  been  transported  to  England,  and  was 
cultivated  there  so  early  as  the  beginning  of  the 
hit  century6. 

On  the  following  day  we  set  out  to  visit  those 
prodigious  columns,  which,  owing  to  their  mag- 
nitude and  situation,  are  almost  everywhere  in 
view,  bearing  traditionally  the  name  of  Hadrian's 
Pillars.  In  our  way  thither,  we  passed  beneath 
*n  arch  which  conducted  from  the  old  city  of  ^rck  <f 

_  •*  WW       m     m 

Theseus  to  the  New  Athens  built  by  Hadrian ; 
upon  which  the  several  appellations  of  Porta 
Sadrianay  Arch  of  Theseus,  and  Arch  of  ^Egeus, 
have  been  bestowed7.     Its  situation  with  respect 


(S)  October  90. 

(4)  We  eoOeeted  many  rare  plant*  In  the  neighbourhood  of  Athens; 
Wt  the  fpedmenf  were  destroyed  in  their  peatege  home,  by  the  wreck 
*f  the  Princessa  merchantman,  oSBtachy  Head. 

(5)  It  was  found  near  to  Athens,  by  John  Sibthorpe,  M.D.  Profeator 
Of  Botany  at  Oxford. 

(6)  In  1797,  according  to  Bradley.  See  Martin's  edit,  of  Miner's 
Xhet.    JUmaWWI. 

(7)  See  WheUr,  8pon,  Le  Bop,  Stuart,  Chandler,  Sec  die.  See  alio 
Ue  Plan,  Vignette  to  the  preceding  Chapter,  No.  18. 


31Q  ATHENS. 

chap,  to  the  walls  of  the  antient  city,  and  the  obliquity 
v^v^/  of  its  position  with  regard  to  the  peribolus  which 
inclosed  the  plane  of  Hadrian's  Pillars*  seems  to 
authorise  an  objection,  already  urged1,  against 
the  notion  of  its  having  been  originally  a  ga$^ 
Le  Hoy's  view  of  it8  is  much  finer,  as  to  general 
effect,  than  that  which  Stuart  has  given3,  and 
exhibits  more  of  the  grandeur  of  the  original. 
The  stones  are  put  together  without  cement; 
but  the  work  is  adorned  with  a  row  of  Corinthian, 
pilasters  and  columns,  with  bases  supporting  au 
upper  tier  in  the  same  style  of  architecture, 
thereby  denoting  a  mode  of  building  more  ch* 
raeteri8tic  of  the  age  of  Hadrian  than  of  any 
earlier  period  in  Athenian  history.    In  the  eft* 
in  origin,  deayours  which  have  been  made  to  trace  its 
origin,  and  to  ascertain  its  antiquity,  it  is  some- 
what strange  that  no  one  has  stated,  what  the 
first  view  of  it  seems  to  suggest  as  the  most 
probable    opinion    concerning    this    structure; 
namely,  that  it  was  a  triumphal  arch,  erected  in 
honour  of  Hadrian,  upon  his  coming  to  Athbhs. 
Stuart  has  observed4,  that  "  it  appears  evidently 


(1)  Stuart's  Aotiq.  of  Athens,  as  abort  cited. 
(S)  Let   Raines  des  pins   beaux  Monumens  de  la  Greet,  PL  SI. 
Park,  1757. 

(3)  Antiq.  of  Athens,  toL  HI.  c  3.  PL  1.    Land.  1794. 

(4)  Ibid.  p.  SO. 


A  f  H  £  H  S.  913 

■ot  to  have  bees  connected  with,  or  to  hate  cn£*' 
aide  a  part  nt,  any  other  building,  but  to  have 
ben  originally  intended  to  remain  insulated." 
He  tlso  considers  the  inscriptions  upon  the  two 
■des  of  it  "  as  a  complimentary  effusion  of  gra- 
titude to  a  liberal  benefactor ;"  and  yet  he  has 
been  induced,  by  the  forced  construction  of  a 
paage  »  Plutarch,  to  believe  this  building  to 
he  the  Arch  of  JEgtus,  rebuilt  by  the  Raman 
Emperor.  If  thie  had  been  the  case,  and  if 
Hadrian,  as  he  supposes^  had  really  restored  a 
venerable  fabric  owing  to  any  regard  for  the 
touderation  in  which  its  original  founder  was 
held,  he  would  not  surely  have  opposed  his 
ova  feme  to  that  of  Theseus,  as  we  find  it  to 
be  vaunted  in  the  two  inscriptions  upon  the 
uth1.  it  seems  more  reasonable  to  suppose 
Art  these  inscriptions  were  placed  by  the 
Athenians  upon  a  triumphal  arch  erected  in 
honour  of  Hadrian,  as  adulatory  testimonies  of 
their  regard  for  a  patron  to  whose  munificence 
their  city  was  so  much  indebted,  and  as  the 
^ — — *«— — — *■  ■■  ■■  ■ 

(6)  On  the  aouth-etuUrn  side,,  towards  the  AeropoUi : 

iUEI£A6HNAI6H2EQSHDPINnOAIl 
Hm  mini  Athmm  Thuti  quondam  m+$. 

^ttiMKAHMton  lid©,  kmards  the  Temple  of  Jmpitwr  Olympbu: 

AIABI2AAFIAN0YK0YXieH2B02D0AI2 
HanMAthtnm  Badrkmi,  ei  nequaquam  Th*m4  urbt. 


314  ATHENS. 

chap,  highest  compliment  they  could  bestow.  That 
Hadrian  coveted  the  thanks  and  praises  of 
dependent  states ;  that  he  sought  to  be  so 
rewarded  for  the  favours  he  conferred  upon 
them ;  seems  to  be  evident,  from  one  of  his 
epistles  alluding  to  the  acknowledgments  made 
by  the  people  of  Alexandria  for  his  bounty  to 
their  city,  and  already  cited  in  a  former  part  of 
this  work1.  The  form  and  style  of  the  struc- 
ture also  agrees  with  this  opinion  of  its  origin ; 
for  it  resembles  the  usual  form  of  the  triumphal 
arches  raised  in  honour  of  the  Roman  Emperore*. 
It  is  built  entirely  of  PenteUcan  marble ;  nor  was 
this  magnificence  inconsistent  with  the  materials 
commonly  used  in  constructing  triumphal  arches* 
The  arches  of  Romulus,  it  is  true,  were  of  brick; 
and  that  of  Camillus  was  of  plain  square  stone ; 
but  those  of  Caesar,  Drusus,  Titus,  Trajan,  and 


(1)  See  Vol.  V.  Chap.  VII.  p.  368. 

(2)  The  first  specimen  of  Grecian  arcbiteetare  erected  In  Great 
Britain  was  modelled  from  this  arch ;  and  the  remains  of  the  copy, 
although  offering  a  paltry  imitation,  aad  upon  an  Insignificant  scab, 
may  still  be  seen  in  the  University  of  Cambridge.  It  »  the  soatiaera 
front  of  the  gate  of  Ccdus  College,  facing  the  Senate  Houee  and  PubBc 
Library;  erected  in  1557,  by  John  Cains,  M.D.  after  designs  by  Jafta 
of  Padua.  And  as  this  formerly  served  to  support  a  Dial,  before  the 
erection  of  the  Senate  Houee  prevented  any  farther  obsenration  of  the 
shadow  of  the  Gnomon,  it  is  probable  the  Athenian  arch  had  the  same 
use ;  the  position  of  which  proves  decidedly  that  it  was  not  one  of  the 
Gates  of  the  Peribolue  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Olumpim. 


ATHENS.  315 


Gordian,  were,  like  this  of  Hadrian*  entirely  of  chap. 
warble.  In  addition,  it  may  be  urged,  that  %*n^ 
trophies  of  this  kind  were  unknown  in  Greece 
before  the  time  of  the  Raman  Emperors.  The 
mere  circumstance  of  its  form  is  therefore 
almost  decisive  as  to  its  origin  ;  for  the  practice 
of  erecting  arches,  as  monuments  of  noble 
enterprises,  and  in  honour  of  distinguished 
personages,  was  not  a  Grecian  but  a  Raman 
custom.  Its  proper  appellation  seems  there- 
fore to  be  that  which  tradition,  supported  by 
the  evidence  of  an  inscription  upon  its  south- 
eastern side,  has  long  assigned  to  it;  namely, 
the  Arch  of  Hadrian  :  and  the  occasion  of 
its  erection  will   be  found   in  the  remarkable  WhV\ 

ereoted. 

event  of  Hadrian's  return  to  Athens  for  the  con- 
secration of  the  identical  temple  to  which  this 
arch  conducted:  this  happened  early  in  the 
second  century3.  Three  years  only  had  elapsed 
since  the  Emperor  entered  into  the  priesthood 
of  the  Eleusinian  Ceres ;  an  event  which  was 
distinguished  by  the  martyrdom  of  many 
Athenian  Christians,  with  Publius  their  bishop4. 
The  Heathens  were  therefore  animated  by  every 
emotion     of    religious    zeal,    and     by    every 


(2)  A.D.  128.  (4)  A.D.  126. 


318  ATHENS. 

chap,  sentiment  of  gratitude,  to  receive  with  all  the 
honours  of  triumph  the  patron  who  had  restored 
the  temples  of  their  Gods  \  the  champion  who 
had  trodden  down  the  enemies  of  their  faith1* 
If  ever,  in  the  history  of  the  world,  there  was  a 
time  when  it  was  peculiarly  appropriate  that  a 
triumph  should  be  decreed,  it  was  at  this  period, 
and  upon  this  occasion.  The  antient  city 
seemed  to  revive  with  more  than  pristine  splen- 
dour from  its  ruins.  Ever  since  die  age  of 
IH&Barchus,  its  condition  had  been  described  as 
so  wretched,  that  foreigners,  upon  the  first 
sight  of  it,  would  scarcely  believe  they  beheld 
what  once  had  been  so  renowned  a  city* :  but 
a  new  Athens  had  arisen  under  the  auspices  of 
the  Emperor.  Magnificent  temples,  stately 
shrines^  unsullied  altars,  awaited  the  benedic- 
tion of  the  sacerdotal  monarch ;  and  it  would 
indeed  have  been  marvellous  if  the  Athenian** 
Hatiurally  prone  to  adulation,  neglected  to 
bestow  it  upon  a  benefactor  so  well  disposed 


0)  Upon  hit  *eturn  to  Athms,  Hadrian  pretided  ai  magttrafteat 
the  celebration  of  the  Dionysia,  and  wore  the  Athenian  drees.  He  alto 
gave  to  the  Athenians  the  leland  Cwpuallebia.  Vid.  XHk  Cam.* 
VU.  Hadrian. 

(2)  'Airiffra0fi«  ?  av  i£ai*>9C  vwb  rd*  &v*v  9$*povpivn,  d  ato+ 
tori*  r,  wpoffayopivofUvn  r*v  'AOnraUnr  w6\tc.  Dkmardd  8tmtm$ 
Grccim,p.  8.    Oxon.  1700. 


AT  HEN 6.  317 

for  its  reception.    The  triumphal  arch  was  of  chap. 
coarse  prepared ;  and  lasting  characters,  thereon 
inscribed,  have  proclaimed  to  succeeding  ages 
that  "  tbs  Athens  of  Hadrian  had  eclipsed 

THE  CRT  OF  ThbSBUS." 

We  now  advanced  towards  the  stupendous 
pillars  which  also  bear  the  name  of  that 
emperor ;  and  a  much  more  difficult  task  would 
remain,  if  we  should  undertake  to  devedope  the 
circumstances  of  their  history.  According  to 
the  routine  of  objeets  as  they  were  observed  by 

on  this  side  of  the  city,  the  hundred 
twenty  pillars  of  Phrygian  marble,  erected 
by  Hadrian,  were  in  this  situation ;  that  is  to 
say,  south-eastward  of  the  Acropolis*.  Sixteen 
columns  of  white  marble,  each  six  feet  in 
diameter,  and  nearly  sixty  feet  in  height,  now 
remain  standing;  all  of  the  Corinthian  order, 
beautifully  fluted,  and  of  the  most  exquisite 
workmanship*.     But,  by  the  appearance  of  the 


(S)  TA  ft  Iwifarivrara,  Uar6*  sUoei  kIoviq  wpvyiov  Xi0ov.  Pammu 
Attica,  p.  43.    Zsjm.  1S96. 

(4)  Bach  is  their  extraordinary  aba,  whan  ootnparad  with  the  rela- 
tive proportfen  of  any  other  architectural  pillars  to  natural  objeets, 
that  in  every  representation  of  them  hitherto  engraven,  where  figures 
of  Ifcrfag  befogs  have  been  introduced  by  the  artist  to  aflbrd  a  seals  for 
the*  ilimiSMiiiiii,  tot  design  has  been  frustrated  by  the  reluctance  of 

the 


318  ATHENS. 

chap,  plane  upon  which  the  columns  stand,  Wheler 
^n^'  was  induced  to  believe  that  there  were  origi- 
nally six   rows  of  pillars,  and   twenty  in  each 
row,  which  would  complete  the  number  men- 
tioned by  Pausanias1.      Chandler  and  Stuart 
are  the  first  authors  who   have  described   the 
Columns  of  Hadrian  as  the  remains  of  the  Temple 
Tempi*     °f  J  up  iter  Olympius8.      Le   Roy  considered 
%k^ku.  them    a&  a  Part   of  the    Pantheon*;    a  name 
bestowed  occasionally,  by  different  travellers, 
upon  almost  every  building  in  Athens,  whether 
in  the  upper  or  in  the  lower  city.     Theodosius 
Zygomalas,  author  of  the  Letter  to  Martin  Crusius, 
published  in    1583,   mentions    the   Parthenon* 


the  engraver  to  represent  these  figures  sufficiently  diminutive.  Unable 
to  conceive  the  existence  of  columns  of  such  magnitude  that  a  man  of 
ordinary  stature  may  remain  concealed  within  any  of  the  canelureSf 
some  addition,  as  usual,  has  been  made  by  the  engraver  to  the  size  of 
tbe  figures,  and  the  apparent  magnitude  of  the  architecture  has  been 
thereby  diminished. 

(1 )  "  Which,  therefore,  must  be  that  hundred  and  twenty,  Pausan  ias 
speaketh  of,  as  built  by  the  Emperor  Hadrian,  of  Phrygian  marble* 
being  whiter  than  that  of  Pentelicus"  Journey  into  Greece,  Book  V. 
11.371.    Lond.  1682. 

(2)  See  Trav.  in  Greece,  vol.  II.  p.  74.  Oxf.  1776.  Also  Antiq.  of 
Athens,  vol.  III.  p.  1 1 .    Lond.  1794. 

(3)  Let  Buines  dee  plus  beaux  Monument  de  la  Grice,  PL  88.  p.  35. 
Paris,  1768.  Le  Boy's  View  of  the  Ruin  is  perhaps  the  finest  in  that 
magnificent  work. 

(4)  This  circumstance  is  alluded  to  by  Spon,  (Voyage  de  Grtce,  fe. 
torn.  II.  p.  37.    a  la  Haye,  1784.)  but  it  may  have  originated  in  an 

error 


ATHENS.  319 

under  this  last  appellation.     Guilletiere  affirms   chap. 
positively,  that  the    principal    mosque  in   the  ^^-v-^/ 
lower   city  was  the  Pantheon*,  and  afterwards  JJjJJJJJ* 
describes  it  as  superior  to  that  of  Home.    A***** 
recent  traveller6  applies  the  name,  and   with 
more  reason,  to  an  edifice  described  by  Stuart 
as  the  Poikile1,  and  by  Wheler  as  the  Olympihtm8. 
In  this  imperfect  state  of  our  knowledge  with 
regard  to  the  real  history  of  these  pillars,  as  of 
many  other  antiquities  in  Athens,  the  author 
would  leave    the  question   to  be  decided    by 


at  the  transcriber  of  Zygomatics  Letter,  or  in  an  error  of  the 
:  w&vBtop  being  written  for  xapBivuv.  The  words  are:  "To 
w&vOiov :  oUotofi^v,  vuAcay  xaoag  oixo$Ofi&c :  yXv-rr&c  Jicroc.  iia 
wewsjc  i^fC  oUodofiiic  i%ovoav  roc,  Xoroplac,  'EAA^vwv :  col  ravraf  t&c 
0il«C.  IpeomPanthenm:  quod  est  axliflcium,aliis  omnibus excellentius: 
in  i{ao  extra  circumqu&que  historic  Gnecorum  sculpts  sunt,  et  qnidem 
divines."  (Fid.  Turco-GreecUe,  lib.  vii.  p.  430.  Basil.  1683.)  The 
anther  le  here  evidently  describing  the  Parthenon ;  and,  at  be  afterwards 
mentions  the  horses  of  Praxiteles, u  ixavm  rijc  ptyaXnc.  wvXrjc  (supra 
magnam  portam),"  it  is  not  very  probable  that  he  believed  the  building 
to  be  the  Pantheon  of  Hadrian :  unless,  indeed,  he  alluded  to  the  horses 
which  were  on  each  side  of  the  Propyleuu 

(5)  **n  y  a  trois  mosquees  a  Athenes:  one  dans  le  chasteau,  qui 
eat  rineomparable  temple  de  Minerve;  et  deux  dans  la  ville,  dont  la 
prmcipale  est  le  fameux  Panthion,  qn'  Adrian  y  fit  bestir."  Voyage 
f Athene* ,  p.  166.    Paris,  1676. 

(6)  Mr.  Wilkin*.  See  the  Plan  engraved  for  the  Work  about  to  be 
published  by  Mr.  Walpole,  on  Parts  of  Greece,  Asia,  and  Egypt,  from 
the  M8.  Journals  of  Travellers  in  the  Levant. 

(7)  Antiq.  of  Athens,  vol.  I.  c.  6.  p.  37.    Land,  1762. 

(8)  Journey  into  Greece,  Book  V.  p.  90S.    Land.  1689. 


320  ATHSNt. 

GAAP,  subsequent  investigation,  and  by  the  discoveries 
v*      which  the  excavations  of  future  travellers  may 
bring  to  light,  were  it  not  for  the  recent  observa- 


for  the 

Name*-  tions  upon  this  subject  by  the  Earl  of  Aberdeen1  f 

signed  to  *  » 

iu  added  to  the  plan  of  this  mighty  structure  as 

afforded  both  by  Chandler*  and  by  Stuart?  from 
their  own  personal  observations;  which  seem 
to  place  the  history  of  the  building  beyond  a 
doubt,  and  prove  it  to  have  been  the  Temple  of 
Jupiter  Olympic  constructed  with  double  rows  of 
columns,  ten  in  front,  and  twenty-one  in  flank* 
amounting  in  all  to  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
four  ;  the  extent  of  the  front  being  one  hundred 
and  seventy-one  feet,  and  the  length  of  the  flank 
more  than  four  hundred :  of  which  sumptuous 
and  stately  temple,  these  pillars  are  the  majestic 
ruin.  The  area,  or  peribolus,  within  which  it 
stood,  was  four  stadia  in  circumference.  "  Rome," 
says  Chandler*,  "  afforded  no  example  of  this 
species  of  building.  It  was  one  of  the  four  marble 
edifices  which  had  raised  to  the  pinnacle  of 
renown  the  architects  who  planned  them9 ;  men, 


(1)  Introduction  to  WWtim's  Ifcjms.  of  Ffcmwtu,  p.  60.    See 
Note  (1)  to  p.  9.  of  the  Text  of  that  Wor*.    ZmmL  181S. 
(S)  Tray,  in  Greece,  vol.  II.  c  15.  p.  74.    Onf.  1776. 
(8)  Antiq.  of  Athena,  vol.  III.  c  S.  PL  8.    LemL  1794. 

(4)  Trav.  in  Greece,  as  above  cited. 

(5)  Antiatotts,  CaUmtchrot,  Antimaehide$9  and  Perimu,  were  the 
earlier  architects  employed  on  this  fabric 


ATHENS.  321 

it  ia  said,  admired  in  the  assembly  of  the  Gods  chap. 
for  their  wisdom  and  excellence."  Some  of  the 
columns  still  support  their  architraves;  one  of 
which,  being  measured  while  we  were  in  Athens, 
was  found  to  equal  three  feet  in  width ;  and, 
although  of  one  entire  piece  of  marble,  it 
extended,  in  length,  twenty-two  feet  six  inches6. 
Upon  the  top  of  the  entablature,  on  the  western 
side  of  the  principal  groupe,  is  shewn  the 
dwelling  of  a  hermit,  who  fixed  his  solitary 
abode  upon  this  eminence,  and  dedicated  his 
life  entirely  to  the  contemplation  of  the  sublime 
objects  by  which  his  mansion  was  everywhere 
surrounded.  Seventeen  of  these  pillars  were 
standing  in  1676 :  but  a  few  years  before 
Chandler  arrived  in  Athens,  one  was  thrown 
down,  for  the  purpose  of  building  a  new 
mosque  in  the  market-place.  Such  instances 
of  dilapidation  on  the  part  of  the   Turks  are, 


(6)  What  the  feelings  of  the  Athenians  must  have  been  upon  the 
restoration  of  this  temple,  may,  in  some  degree,  be  collected  from 
the  following  observations  of  Plutarch,  and  of  Diccearchus,  concerning 
the  edifice  in  its  imperfect  state.  'Uc  yap  >/  -jtoXiq  rS»v  'AOrjvaiwv  to 
'OXvuxttiov,  oZrvc.  //  UXarwvoQ  acxpia  rijv  'ArXavrixav  iv  ttoXXoTq 
koXmq  fiSvov  Ipyov  areXlc  laxvKlv'  (Plutarch*  extremo  Solone.) 
THe&archus  seems  to  have  had  a  foresight  of  its  future  splendour.  He 
says :  'OXvutciov,  rjptTtXkQ  piv,  KardfrX^iv  8*  1%0P  TVQ  oiKofouriffeutc. 
vxoypaf  qr  ytvouivov  d*  av  I&Xtuttov,  EI  SYNETEAESOH.  Diccearch. 
Dutript,  QrcBc,  ap.  Meurs  De  Athenis  Atticxs,  lib,  i.  c.  10. 

VOL.    VI.  Y 


322  ATHENS. 

chap,  fortunately,  very  rare  ;  and  we  find  that,  in  this 
.^3^/  instance,  the  damage  done  to  the  remains  of  the 
temple  was  made  a  pretext  for  extorting  fifteen 
purses  from  the  Governor  of  Athens;  a  tax 
levied  by  the  Pasha  of  Negropont,  as  expressly 
stated,  for  the  violence  committed  by  the  Wai- 
wode  in  overthrowing  the  pillar. 

iiissut.  Descending  from  the  area  of  the  temple 
towards  the  Ilissus,    we   visited   the  fountain 

Fountain 

cauirhoe.  Callirhoe,  sometimes  called  JEnneacruhus1.  We 
observed  niches  in  the  rock,  for  the  votive  offerings, 
where  there  had  been  a  cascade :  and  hereabouts 
were,  in  all  probability,  the  altars  of  those 
Muses  mentioned  by  Pausanias,  who  were 
called  Ilissiades.  Afterwards,  as  we  examined  the 
channel  of  the  river,  for  a  considerable  extent, 
we  found  it  to  exhibit  such  evident  traces  of  a 
powerful  current  having  worn  away  the  solid 
_sr*  of    its    rocky    bed,    that    we    were 

s  it    could    not    formerly  have  been 

False  No-  Cu*  ^ty  the  appearance  it  now  exhibits ; 

tajnedDofr"  namefy>  *-        *-*n  occasional  torrent,  sometimes 

the  River,  fay  throughout  *  e  entire  year.    Chandler  says,  he 
visited  it  several  times  after  snow  had  fallen  on 


(1)  Vid.  MextrsU  Ceramic.  Gemin.  c.  14.  ap.  Gronov.  The$mwr.  Grmt. 
torn*  IV.  p.  982.    L.  Bat.  1699. 


ATHENS.  323 

the  mountains,  and  after  heavy  rain  -,  but  that  he  chap. 
never  found  even  the  surface  of  the  channel  to  be 
covered  with  water :  it  lodged  only  in  the  hollows 
of  the  stone,  and  trickled  from  one  cavity 
to  another9.  Yet  we  should  reluctantly  conclude 
with  that  writer,  that  the  Poets  who  celebrated 
IUssus  "  as  a  stream  laving  the  fields,  cool  and 
lucid,"  either  conceived  or  conveyed  "  a  false 
idea  of  this  renowned  water-course."  Some 
other  cause  must  be  assigned  for  the  disagree- 
ment of  their  descriptions  with  the  real  character 
which  the  river  now  bears.  The  earliest  tra- 
veller whose  work  we  have  cited  seems  to  have 
(bond  no  difficulty  in  accounting  for  the  loss  of 
the  current,  but,  soon  after  his  arrival  at  Athens, 
distinctly  states,  that  the  water  of  the  IUssus  had 
been  diverted  and  divided  by  an  infinite  number  of 
rhmietSy  cut  on  purpose  to  supply  the  fountains 
in  the  gardens  about  the  town8.  In  a  former 
part  of  his  work  he  seems  to  insinuate  that  the 
current  had  also  been  carried  off  for  the  use  of 


(*)  Trmw.  in  Greece,  vol.  II.  p.  79.     Oaf.  1776. 

(3)  "  Le  pont  est  so&tenu  de  trois  arches ;  et  au  despous  est  le 
eanal  oa  passoit  I'lUIuus  quand  il  estoit  riviere,  car  aujourd'huy  le 
canal  est  tec ;  VIUiuu$  a  uM  divert y,  et  partagS  en  une  infinite  de 
rigoU*,  qui  s'epanchent  de  cost6  et  d'autre,  pour  aller  faire  dcs  jets- 
d'ean  dans  lea  jardini  des  environs  de  la  ville."  Voyage  d'Athenet,  par 
Dt  la  GuUUtiere,  p.  268.     Parity  1675. 

Y    2 


324  ATHENS. 

chap,  the  mills  near  to  the  city1 ;  and  those  who  hai 
v*  visited  Troas  know  very  well  that  a  channel  thi 
diverted,  for  a  single  Turkish  mill,  is  sufficient  t» 
carry  off  a  torrent  of  water  not  less  potent  thai 
was  the  stream  of  the  Ilissus*.  In  the  simpli 
narrative  of  De  la  Guilletiere  we  have  therefor* 
sufficient  evidence  to  justify  a  conclusion 
although  in  opposition  to  Chandler,  that  th< 
antient  writers  by  whom  the  Ilissus  is  mentions 
did  not  fall  "  into  local  absurdities  and  untruths',9 
in  their  descriptions  of  that  river :  neither  i 
there  any  thing  more  justly  reprehensible  ii 
literary  matters,  than  the  very  common  pro 
pensity  to  depreciate  the  accuracy  of  Poets  am 
Historians,  whenever  a  difficulty  occurs  ii 
reconciling  their  statements  with  existing 
appearances4. 


(1)  "Le  Didascalos  noas  dit,  que  c'estoit  la  faute  des  moulins,* 
que  la  riviere  oVIUissus  estoit  pre'sentement  coupe*e  en  tant  de  com** 
qu'elle  ne  pouvoit  foornir  assez  d'eau  pour  bien  moudre  le  bled* 
Ibid.  p.  236. 

(2)  See  GelVs  Topography  of  Troy,  p.  48.     Lond.  1 804. 

(3)  See  Chandler's  Travels  m  Greece,  vol.  II.  p.  70.     Orf.  1778. 

(4)  Plato  (in  Pfued.  torn.  III.  p.  229.)  mentions  the  pure  and  Imp 
waters  of  the  Ilissus;  but  as  this  passage  of  that  author  is  express! 
alluded  to  by  Mr.  Walpole,  in  his  MS.  Journal,  when  writing  upon  U 
same  subject,  his  observations  will  now  be  added,  as  strongly  suppor 
ing  the  opinion  already  given. — "Neither  wood  nor  water  seem 
have  abounded  in  Attica.    I  did  not  meet  a  stream  of  any  magnita 

(excepti 


ATHENS.  325 

From  the  bed  of  the  river — after  visiting  that   chap. 
part  of  it  where  the  marble  bridge  of  three  arches,  v^»J**»/ 
mentioned  by  all  writers  to  the  time  of  Stuart?, 
conducted  across  the  Ilissus  to  Agrjb6,  the  scene 
of  one  of  Plato's  Dialogues7 — we  ascended  to 
tow  the  remains  of   the  Stadium  Panathe- p^]£_ 
haicum,  which  was,  in  fact,  a  continuation   of naicum' 


(excepting  the  Cepbissus)  in  any  part  of  it.  a  Dio  Chrysostom  says, 
then  are  not  great  mountains  to  be  seen,  nor  are  there  rivers  flowing 
through  the  country,  jiijrt  rrorafioi  dtafipiovric.,  Orat.  6.  Athens  itself 
m  supplied  with  well-water  ;  hence  the  number  of  antient  wells  we 
smotto  cut  in  the  rock  about  the  city  near  Lycabettus.  Pausanias 
(Hb.  L),  as  well  as  Plutarch  in  his  Life  of  Solon,  makes  mention  of 
them.  The  exportation  of  wood  and  pitch  was  forbidden  by  law,  as  we 
x*d  from  the  Scholiast  on  a  passage  in  the  Knights  of  Aristophanes. 
What  the  country  afforded  was  required  for  the  use  of  the  navy. 
Ihs  Lyceum  and  Cynosarges  were,  according  to  Diceearcbus,  Karditvdpa 
9tU  wooded ;  because,  as  places  of  public  resort,  they  were  much 
•Headed  to ;  but  trees  are  not  now  to  be  found  there.  It  would  be 
to  difficult  to  find  the  pure  and  limpid  waters  of  the  Ilissus, 
stfapd  cm  tiiafavr),  which  Plato  mentions  in  the  Phsdrus ;  there  is 
Mver  any  quantity  of  water  in  the  river-bed.  In  former  times,  the 
channel  was  full.  Besides  the  passage  from  Plato,  the  following  allu- 
•fae  of  Cratinus  to  a  famous  orator  supports  this  opinion  : 

Ye  Gods,  what  a  flow  of  words  is  here ! 

Ilissus  is  in  his  throat.    "iXioooc,  iv  ry  fapvyi. 
ad  we  know  that  the  Pelasgi  were  accused  of  way-laying  the  Athenian 
vonen,  when  they  went  from  the  city  to  draw  water  from  the  Ilissus." 
—Walpole*s  MS.  Journal. 

(5)  See  the  View  of  it  in  Stuart's  Athens.     The  bridge  no  longer 
exists. 

(6)  Atapdm   Sk  tqv  Et\e<r<rov,  gupi'dy  'Aypai  KaXov/itvov,  k.  t.  X. 
Pmtsani*  Attica,  c.  19.  p.  45.    Lips.  1696. 

(7)  The  Phetdrus ;  so  called  from  one  of  the  disciples  of  Socrates. 


326  ATHENS. 

chap,  the  bridge ;  for  the  latter  was  seventy  feet  wid 
^^^  and  conducted  immediately  into  the  arena  of  tl 
former.  It  has  been  usual  to  say  of  this  mo 
wonderful  of  all  the  marvellous  works  of  Herod 
Atticus1,  that  nothing  now  remans  of  its  fonm 
magnificence.  To  our  eyes,  everything  nece 
sary  to  impress  the  mind  with  an  accurate  idc 
of  the  object  itself,  and  of  its  grandeur,  and  < 
the  prodigious  nature  of  the  work,  seemed  1 
£xist  as  if  it  had  been  in  its  perfect  state.  Th 
marble  covering  of  the  seats,  it  is  true,  n 
longer  appears ;  but  the  lines  are  visible  of  th 
different  ranges  ;  and  perhaps  a  part  of  th 
covering  itself  might  be  brought  to  light  by 
removal  of  the  soil.  The  absence  of  ornament  i 
of  little  consequence  as  to  the  general  effect 
the  decorations  of  a  Stadium,  however  costly  i 


(1)  It  was  originally  constructed  by  Lycurgus ;  bnt  it  was  rettosr 
by  Herodes,  whose  real  name,  as  given  by  Spon  from  an  Atkmm 
inscription,  was  Tiberius  Claudius  At ticus  B erodes.  He  lavished  op 
it  the  most  enormous  sums,  covering  it  entirely  with  the  white  maH 
of  Moont  Pentelicus.  Pausahias  did  not  expect  to  be  credited,  e*« 
in  the  brief  description  of  this  work,  as  thus  given :  To  &,  aKovaaci  ** 
ov%  bfioivc  Ixayvybv,  Bavpa  $'  Mouai,  ardtiov  i<rrl  Xivkov  XiQov,  ft 
yiBoc  ii  avrov  rydt  av  ric  paXurra  TtK/uupoiTo.  &v**Qtv  &poc,  juris*  r* 
EiXurabv  &p\6ptvov  ^*  Hivoutovc  KaOrjKti  rov  xorapov  wpoc  t$v$x0* 
tvOv  T€  jccri  hwXovv  rovro  avrjp  'AOqvaToc  'Hpt^ifc  yKotoptjai,  cai 
rb  woXb  r  »/c  XtOorofiiac  rife  UtvriXytnv  tg  rqv  otKO&opfiv  awjX*& 
Pausan.  Attica,  e.  19.  pp.  45,  40.     Lips.  16116. 


ATHENS.  327 

their  nature,  may  be  easily  imagined ;  and  if,  chap. 
instead  of  having  ransacked  the  quarries  of 
Pentelicus  for  its  garniture,  some  more  precious 
material  had  been  used,  the  superficial  invest- 
ment, in  so  vast  a  theatre,  would  not  materially 
have  altered  its  general  appearance.  The 
remains  of  Stadia  still  exist  in  different  parts  of 
Greece;  but  this  of  Athens  surpasses,  as  in  the 
days  of  its  splendour,  every  other  in  the  world. 
Its  form  is  so  perfect,  that  the  spectator  tra- 
versing the  arena  between  its  sloping  sides, 
towards  the  Cotton  at  its  south-western  extremity, 
almost  imagines  himself  to  be  transported  to  the 
age  in  which  it  was  prepared  for  the  reception  of 
its  innumerable  guests :  aud  when  seated  in  the 
higher  part  of  it,  where  people  from  all  Attica, 
ranged  by  thousands,  beheld  a  still  gathering 
multitude,  thronging  eagerly  toward  the  spot ; 
•ray  countenance  being  animated  by  the 
greatness  of  the  solemuitv,  and  every  heart 
beating  with   the  most  impatient  expectation ; 

how  affecting  is  the  scene  before  him  !     Nothing 

• 

w  wanted  to  render  it  more  impressive,  but  the 
actual  presence  of  the  pomp  itself — the  noise  of 
the  chariots — the  prancing  and  the  neighing  of  the 
horses — the  sounds  of  the  music — the  exhibition 
°f  the  combatants —and  the  shout  of  the  people. 
^yfcn    the    passages,   through    which    ferocious 


328  ATHENS. 

chap,  animals1  were  conducted  into  the  arena,  and  tl 
^^/^  entrances  and  retreats  for  those  who  contest 
prizes,  yet  remain  almost  in  their  entire  stal 
Nothing  has  been  removed  or  destroyed,  but  tl 
parts  which  were  merely  ornamental ;  and  the 
are  not  missed  in  the  general  survey  of  a  stru 
ture  necessarily  simple  as  to  its  form,  b 
inexpressibly  great  and  striking  in  its  aspect 
and  this  effect  is  owing,  not  solely  to  its  artifici 
character,  but  to  the  grandeur  of  its  appearan 
as  a  work  of  Nature;  the  very  mountains  havii 
contributed  to  the  operations  of  art,  in 
formation9.  Such  a  combination  may  be  oft 
observed  in  antient  theatres  of  a  semicircul 
form  ;  but  there  is  not,  either  in  Hellas  or  in  A 
Minor,  an  instance,  where  the  natural  lineamei 
of  the  country  have  admitted  of  a  simil 
adaptation  to  the  appropriate  shape  of  t 
Grecian  Stadium.  This  splendid  memorial 
Attic  splendour,  and  of  the  renown  of  a  privi 
citizen  of  Athens,  became  ultimately  his  fune 


(1)  When  Hadrian  was  in  Athens,  he  presided  at  the  Panathe* 
and  caused  one  thousand  wild  beasts  to  be  hunted  in  the  Stadium. 
the  diversion  of  the  people.  "  Athenis  mille  ferarum  venationen 
Stadio  exhibuit:'    Spartianvs,  in  ejus  Vita,  c.  19. 

(2)  There  is  a  very  fine  view  of  it,  as  engraved  by  Landseer  f 
a  drawing  by  Rcveley,  in  Stuart's  Athens,  vol.  III.  c.  7.  PI.  3.  Li 
1704. 


L 


ATHENS.  329 

monument :  and  a  very  curious  discovery  may  chap. 


be  reserved  for  future  travellers  in  the  majestic 

sepulchre  of  Eerodes  himself;    who  was  herej£g£j£,# 

interred*,  with  the   highest  obsequies  and  most 

distinguished  honours  that    a    grateful   people 

could   possibly   bestow     upon    the   tomb    of  a 

benefactor,    who   spared  no  expenses  for  them 

while   he  was  living,  and    every  individual  of 

whom  participated  in   his  bounty  at  his  death4. 

A  little    eastward    of    the    Stadium   are    the 

vestiges     of   the    Temple     of    Diana    Agrcea. 

Having  again  crossed  the  Ilissus,  we  observed 

near  to  its  nor  them  bank,  some  remains  which 

Stuart  and  others  have  considered  as  those  of 

the  Lyceum.     Hence  we  proceeded  toward  the 


(8)  The  funeral  of  Herodes  Attieus  must  hate  afforded  one  of  the 
■**  affecting  solemnities  of  which  History  makes  mention.  He  was 
ftoty-six  years  old  when  he  died  ;  and  in  the  instructions  which  he 
"»  tor  his  interment,  he  desired  to  be  buried  at  Marathon,  where  he 
^ttborn;  but  the  Athenians  insisted  upon  possessing  his  remains,  and 
tfc?  caused  the  youth  of  their  city  to  bear  him  to  the  Stadium 
P^tthenaicum,  which  he  had  built ;  all  the  people  accompanying,  and 
Pfcriag  forth  lamentations  as  for  a  deceased  parent.  'AOnvtot,  rate  r£v 
WW  X*poiv  apxdffavriSt  Jcdorv  fjvtyicav,  wpoavavrUvrig  rtp  X«x«* 
T**a  qXuta  iaepvoic.  Upa,  kcu  ibfrjfWvvTiQ,  ooa  iraifcc,  xp^^ov  irarpdc 
Xffifoamc.  (Philostratus  in  qui  Vita,  Sophist,  lib.  \L  Lips,  1700.) 
^**t  t  subject  for  the  pencil  of  a  Raphael !  Historical  painters  some- 
*****  complain  that  every  event  in  antient  history  has  been  already 
"^Aled:  here  is  one,  at  least,  to  which  this  complaint  is  not  applicable. 

W  He  bequeathed  to  every  Athenian  a  sum  nearly  equal  to  three 
P0***!*  of  our  money. 


330  ATHENS. 

chap,    east,    to    ascend  Mount   Anchesmus,    and  to 

v. 
wv^  enjoy   in   one  panoramic1   survey  the   glorious 

prospect  presented  from  its  summit,  of  all  the 
antiquities  and  natural  beauties  in  the  Athenian 
Hadrian's  Plain.  At  the  foot  of  this  mount  were  die 
'  remains  of  a  reservoir  constructed  by  Hadrian 
for  the  purpose  of  receiving  water  for  his  new 
city,  after  being  conveyed  by  a  most  expensive 
aqueduct,  whose  broken  piers  may  be  traced  to 
the  distance  of  seven  miles  from  the  spot,  in  a 
north-easterly  direction,  towards  the  country 
between  Parnes  and  Pentelicus.  In  Stuarts  time, 
part  of  an  arcade  of  marble  remained,  con- 
sisting of  two  Ionic  columns,  with  their  enta- 
blature ;  and  the  spring  of  an  arch,  containing 
the  fragment  of  an  inscription,  which  was 
remarkably  restored  by  Spons  discovery  of  the 
entire  legend  in  a  manuscript  at  Zarc?.  It 
stated,  that  the  work  was  begun  by  Hadrian*  in 

(1)  Since  the  plan  has  been  adopted  in  BngUmd  of  exhibiting  the 
▼lews  of  celebrated  cities  by  tbe  tort  of  painting  called  Panorama, 
a  hope  ha*  been  excited  that  Athens  will  one  day  become  the  subject 
of  such  a  picture ;  and  for  this  purpose  it  is  highly  probable  that 
Mmmt  Anehesmus  will  be  made  the  point  of  obeerration.  At  the  same 
time,  it  is  liable  to  this  objection ;  that  the  grandeur  of  effect  Sa 
always  diminished  in  proportion  to  the  elevation  of  the  spectator. 
The  city  makes,  perhaps,  a  more  striking  appearance  in  the  road  from 
Blbusis,  immediately  after  tearing  the  defile  of  Daphne. 

(9)  WkeieY  says  at  Spalatro.  See  Span,  Voyage  de  DabnatU,  §r. 
torn.  I.  p.  51.  a  to  Hays,  1724. 


ATHENS.  331 

the    new   Athens,    and    completed    by  his  son    chap. 
Antoninus  Piuf.    The    whole   fabric    is    now 


destroyed,  so  that  even  the  site  of  the  arcade 
cannot  be  determined ;  but  the  architrave  yet 
remains,  with  that  part  of  the  inscription  which 
was  observed  here  when  Wheler  and  Span 
visited  the  spot :  it  forms  the  lintel  or  top  of 
one  of  the  gates,  leading  toward  its  antient 
situation,  in  the  present  wall  of  the  city4.  We 
ascended  to  the  commanding  eminence  of  the 
mount,  once  occupied  by  a  temple  of  Anchesmian  Mount 
Jupiler.  The  Pagan  shrine  has,  as  usual,  been  " 
succeeded  by  a  small  Christian  sanctuary :  it  is 
dedicated  to  St.  George.  Of  the  view  from  this 
rock,  even  Wheler  could  not  write  without 
emotion.  "  Here,"  says  he5,  "  a  Democritus 
might  sit  and  laugh  at  the  pomps  and  vanities  of 
the  world,  whose  glories  so  soon  vanish  ;  or  an 
Heraclitus  weep  over  its  manifold  misfortunes, 
telling  sad  stories  of  the  various  changes  and 
events  of  Fate/9    The  prospect  embraces  every 


(S)  IMP  '  CAB8AB'  T;  ARLIY8  a  HADRIAN  T8  '  AH  TON  IN  T8 '  AUG  *  PIV8* 
COS"  III  •  TBIB  *  POT  *  II  *  PP  '  AQTABDYCTVM  *  IN  "  NOTI8  *  ATHBNI8* 
COBPTTM  *  A  *  DITO  *  HADBIANO  *  PAT  RE  '  BTO  *  CON8VMMAVIT' 
DBDICATITQYB. 

(4)  8ee  the  third  volume  of  Stuarts  Athens,  ai  edited  by  Reveley, 
p.  SS.  Note  (a).    Land.  1704 

(5)  Journey  Into  Greece,  Book  V.  p.  374.    Lond.  1GS2. 


332  ATHENS. 

chap,   object,  excepting  only  those  upon  the  south-wast 
v^O^w  side  of  the  Castle.     Instead  of  describing  the 

View    fpnm 

tbesommit.  effect  produced  in  our  minds  by  such  a  sight,  it 
will  be  more  consistent  with  the  present  under- 
taking, to  note  down  what  the  objects  really  are 
which  the  eye  commands  from  this  place.  It  is 
a  plan  we  propose  to  adopt  again,  upon  similar? 
occasions,  whenever  the  observations  we  mad.  < 
upon  the  spot  will  enable  us  so  to  do.  Hx-* 
situation  of  the  observer  is  north-east  of  the  city  > 
and  the  reader  may  suppose  him  to  be  lookin^§> 
in  a  contrary  direction,  towards  the  Acropolir  i 
which  is  in  the  centre  of  this  fine  picture 
thence,  regarding  the  whole  circuit  of  tl»_e 
Citadel,  from  its  north-western  side,  toward  tl^^e 
south  and  east,  the  different  parts  of  it  occur  a~  n 
the  following  order;  although,  to  a  spectator, 
they  all  appear  to  be  comprehended  in  one  vie1 


Central  Object. 

The  lofty  rocks  of  the  Acropolis,  crowned 
with  its  majestic  temples,  the  Parthenon, 
JErectheum,  &c. 

Fore  Ground. 

The  whole  of  the  modern  city  of  Athens, 
with  its  gardens,  ruins,  mosques,  and  walls, 
spreading  into  the  plain  beneath  the  Citadel. 
A  procession    for  an   Albanian   wedding,  with 


£3 


ATHENS.  333 

uusic,  &c.  was  at  this  time  passing  out  of  one    chap. 
>f  the  gates.  v" 

Right j  or  North-Western  Wing. 
The  Temple  of  Theseus. 

Left ^  or  South- Eastern  Wing. 
The  Temple  op  Jupiter  Olympius. 

?iew  beyond  the  Citadel,  proceeding  from   West, 

to  South  and  East. 
1.  Areopagus.    2.  Pnyx.    3.  Ilissus.    4.  Site 
>f  the  Temple  of  Ceres  in  Agree,  and  Fountain 
^alurhoe.     5.  Stadium  Panathenaicum,  Site 
>f  the  Lyceum,  &c. 

Parallel  Circuit,  with  a  more  extended  radius. 

1.  Hills  and  Defile  of  Daphne,  or  Via  Sacra. 
I.  Piraeus.  3.  Munychia  and  Phalerum. 
I.  Salamis.  5.  jEgina.  6.  More  distant  Isles. 
K  Hymettus. 

Ditto,  still  more  extended. 
1.  Parnes.      2.  Mountains   beyond   Eleusis 
and   Megara.     3.    Acropolis  of  Corinth.     4. 
Mountains  of  Peloponnesus.     5.  The  ^Bgean 
ind  distant  Islands. 

Immediately  beneath  the  eye. 

1.  Plain  op  Athens,  with  Albanians  engaged 
n  agriculture  }  herds  of  cattle,  &c.  &c. 


334  ATHENS. 

chap.       Hereafter,  in  describing  prospects,  where  our 
situation  as  spectators  has  been  more  elevated, 
and  the  view  thereby  rendered  still  more  exten- 
sive, as  well  as  the  objects  more  numerous,  we 
shall  complete  an  entire  circumference ;  noting^ 
our  observations  according  to  the  points  of  ^ 
mariner's  compass,  after  the  plan  adopted  b^ 
Wheler.     During  the  time  that  we  were  occu- 
pied in  making  our  survey  from  this  eminence, 
Lusieri  began  to  trace  the  outlines  of  the  inesti- 
mable view  of  Athens  which  he  designed,  and 
afterwards  completed,  upon  this  spot;    adding 
every  colour,  even  the  most  delicate  tints  and 
touches  of  his  pencil,  while  the  objects  he  deli- 
neated were  yet  before  his  eyes1.     We  remained 
with  him  during  the  greater  part  of  the  day: 
and  having  now    examined    all   the    principal 
antiquities  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Athene 
we  returned  by  the  gate  leading  to  Anches- 
mus,  where  the   inscribed   marble,  relating  to 
Hadrian9 8  reservoir  for  water  at  the  foot  of  the 


(l)  In  this  manner  he  finished  hii  View  of  Constantinople,  taken 
from  an  eminence  above  the  Canal ;  working  with  hit  colours  in  the 
open  air.  His  rival,  Fauvtl,  was  not  in  Athens  during  the  time  of  our 
visit  j  a  Frenchman  equally  renowned,  for  his  talents  as  an  artist,  his 
researches  a*  an  antiquary,  and  his  disinterested  attention  to  sH 
travellers,  whether  of  bis  own  or  of  any  other  nation. 


ATHENS.  335 

mount,  is  now  placed.     After  entering  the  city,   chap. 
we  resolved  to  try  our  success  by  making  an 
excavation,  not  only  in  one  of  the  tombs,  but  also 
in  the  exhausted  wells,  of  which  there  are  many 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Athens. 


VIEW  >™  ""  PARTHENON, actum  thfaltiVH  8ARONICIO8. 


r  Acropolit  1/ Corinth. 
t  ^fountain  near  Megan. 
*  7'Ar«ne    of    Xenc»,  fl(  r 

SsHfr  o/Silamis. 


CHAP.  VI. 


ATHENS. 

Excavations — Great  Antiquity  of  the  Atheniar 
Wells — Curious  Inscription  upon  a  Terra-cotta 
Lamp — Excursion  to  Hymettus — Temple  of 
Diana— Monastery — Visit  to  the  summit  of  the 
Mountain — Plants — Panoramic  Survey  of  the 
Country^ — Return  to  Athena — Singular  Adven- 
ture that  bejel  the  Author — Description  of  the 
Ceremonies  of  the  Bath,  as  practised  by  the 
Turkish  and  Grecian  Women — Further  Obser- 
vations in  the  Acropolis — Inscriptions— Speci- 
men of  Cadmasan  Characters  —  Additional 
Remarks  upon  the  Parthenon — Effect  of  Su* 
set  behind  the  Mountains  of  Peloponnesus. 

Having  hired  some  Albanian  peasants  for 
the  work,  and  obtained  permission  from  the 
Waiwode,  we  began  the  examination  of  some  of 


tions. 


ATHENS.  337. 

the  wells.  Mr.  Cripps,  in  the  mean  time,  super-  chap. 
intended  the  excavation  of  a  tumulus  near  the 
road  leading  to  the  Piraeus ;  but  the  difficulty 
of  carrying  on  any  undertaking  of  this  kind,  Excava- 
owing  to  the  jealousy,  not  only  of  the  Turks, 
tat  also  of  the  Greeks,  who  always  suppose  that 
jHBe.  secret  horde  of  gold  is  the  object  of 
gpe^rch,  renders  it  liable  to  continual  inter- 
fiptioD.  After  two  days  spent  in  opening  the 
tomb,  we  had  the  mortification  to  find  that  it 
had  been  examined  before ;  and  we  had  good 
reason  to  believe  that  a  knowledge  of  this  cir- 
cumstance was  the  sole  ground  of  the  easy 
permission  we  had  obtained  to  begin  the  labour 
for  the  second  time.  In  the  examination  of  the 
wells,  we  succeeded  better  ;  but  our  acquisi- 
tions were  as  nothing,  compared  with  those 
which  have  since  been  made1.  The  reasons 
which  induced  the  author  to  suspect  that  the 
cleansing  of  an  old  well  would  lead  to  the 
discovery  of  valuable   antiquities,    were   these : 


(1)  Particularly  by  Mr.  Dodwell,  and  by  Mr.  Graham  of  Trinity 
College,  Cambridge,  son  of  Sir  James  Graham,  Bart.  The  latter  of 
these  gentlemen,  in  opening  one  of  the  wells,  restored  to  the  inhabitants 
of  Athene,  to  their  great  joy,  a  Tery  fine  spring  of  water,  which  burst 
forth  upon  the  remoyal  of  the  rubbish  by  which  the  well  was  filled  : 
the  moat  valuable  gift  be  could  have  made  to  a  city  where  water  is 
particularly  scarce. 

VOL.    VI.  Z 


338  A  T  H  E  N  9. 

chap.  first,  the  welts  of  Greece  Were  always  the  resort 
of  its  inhabitants ;  they  were  places  of  conver- 
sation, of  music,  dancing,  revelling,  and  almost 
every  kind  of  public  festivity ;  secondly,  that  theSr 
remote  antiquity  is  evident  frotai  the  following 


Great  An-  extraordinary  circumstance.    Over  the 

tiquity  of  • 

the  a  the-  of  each  well  has  been  placed  a  massive  marble 
cylinder,  nearly  corresponding,  as  to  its  form* 
ornaments,  height,  and  diameter,  with  the 
marble  altars  which  are  so  commonly  converted 
by  the  Turks  ifito  mortars  for  bruising  their 
corn.  A  very  entire  altar  of  this  shape  is  ia 
the  Cambridge  Collection  of  Greek  Marble?. 
These  wells  had  no  contrivance  for  raising 
Water  by  means  of  windlass,  or  even  of  the 
simple  lever8,  common  over  all  the  North  of 
Europe,  which  is  often  poised  by  a  weight  at 
the  outer  extremity3.  The  water  rose  so  near 
to  the  surface,  that  it  was  ahnost  within  reach 
of  the  hand  ;  and  the  mode  of  raising  it  was  by 
a  hand-bucket,  with  a  rope  of  twisted  herbs. 
Owing  to  the  general  use  of  this  rope,  and  its 


(1)  Presented  to  the  author  by  Bridges  Barvey,  Esq.  If. A.  of  Jim 
College.    It  was  brought  from  Velos. 

(3)  The  lever  is  now  used  for  some  of  the  wells  in  Athens;  but 
seems  probable  that  the  use  of  this  mechanical  power  among  i 
Modem  Greeks  was  introduced  by  the  Albanians. 

(3)  See  a  Sketch  of  the  old  Teutonic  Well  as  a  Vignette  to  Chap. 
Vol.  IX.  of  these  Travels,  8vo.  Edition. 


ATHENS.  339 

tonseqoent  friction  against  the  sides  of  the 
well,  the  interior  of  those  massive  marble  cylin- 
ders has  been  actually  grooved  all  round,  to 
the  depth  of  two  or  three  inches :  in  some 
instances,  transverse  channels  appear  crossing 
the  others  obliquely,  and  to  an  equal  depth. 
An  effect  so  remarkable,  caused  in  solid  marble 
by  its  attrition  with  one  of  the  softest  substances, 
affords  convincing  proof  that  a  great  length  of 
time  must  have  elapsed  before  any  one  of  those 
farrows  in  the  stone  could  have  been  so  produced; 
and  that  many  ages  would  be  requisite  to  form 
sach  channels  in  any  number. 

Having  selected  a  dry  well  for  our  experi- 
ment, whose  mouth  was  covered  by  a  cylinder 
remarkably  distinguished  by  this  appearance, 
we  removed  a  quantity  of  stones  and  rubbish, 
and  found  at  the  bottom  a  substratum  of  moist 
marie.  In  this  humid  substance  (the  original 
deposit  of  the  water  when  the  well  was  used), 
the  number  of  terra-cotta  vessels,  lamps, 
pitchers,  bottles,  some  entire,  others  broken, 
was  very  great.  We  removed  thirty-seven  in 
an  entire  state,  of  various  sizes  and  forms.  They 
were  chiefly  of  a  coarse  manufacture,  without 
glazing  or  ornament  of  any  kind  ;  but  the 
workmen    brought  up   also   the   feet,   handles, 

z  2 


340  ATHENS. 

chap,  necks,  and  other  parts  of  earthen  vases  of  a 
vi.  . 

very  superior  quality  and  workmanship:  some 

of  these  were  fluted,  and  of  a  jet  black  colour ; 
others  of  a  bright  red,  similar  to  those  innume- 
rable fragments  of  terra-cotta  found  upon  the 
site  of  all  Grecian  cities ;  especially  in  the  outer 
Cer amicus1,  and  in  the  sepulchres  of  Athens  since 
opened,  as  well  as  those  of  Italy  and  of  Sicily. 
While  this  work  was  going  on,  a  lamp  was 
brought  to  us,  without  any  information  of  th 
place  where  it  was  found,  but  of  such  singula 
beauty  and  interest,  that  the  author  would 
guilty  of  an  unpardonable  omission  if  he  neg — 
lected  to  insert  its  particular  description:  ha» 
has  an  additional  motive  for  so  doing ;  namelj^ 


(1)  By  collecting  upon  the  spot  these  fragments  of  Greci/tn 
and  comparing  afterwards  the  fragments  found  upon  the  site  of  < 
antient  city  with  those   discovered  on  the  site  of  another,  a 
marked  difference  of  manufacture  may  be  observed*    The  Ccrbsthms^sm 
seemed  to  hare  used  a  particularly  heavy  and  coarse  black  ware ;  thw*»f 
of  Athens  was  the  lightest  and  most  elegant ;  that  of  Sicyon  the  rudesa?* 
and  most  antient.    The  most  perfect  pottery  of  Modern  Greece  is  tl»* 
earthenware  of  Larissa,  where  it  may  be  found  almost  equal  in  besMtf 
to  the  antient  terra-eotta.    Mr.  Cripps  discovered  at  Athens,  upon  the 
outside  of  the  city,  fragments  of  the  finest  antient  rases,  lying  asms 
quarry,  and  sufficient  in  quantity  to  prove  that  a  very  large  establish- 
ment for  the  manufacture  of  earthenware  once  existed  upon  the  spot 
As  it  remains  there  at  this  hour,  it  may  assist  in  deciding  the  ditpitr1 
position  of  the  outer  Cbramiccs.    '*  Fecit  et  Calcoethenes  cruda  open 
Athenis ;  qui  locus  ab  official  ejus,  Ceramicos  appellator**    PUsu  Hist 
Nat.  lib.  xxxv.  c.  12.    X.  Bat.  1695. 


ATHENS.  341 

the  hope  of  being  one  day  able  to  recover  this   chap. 
curious    relic ;     for   its    extraordinary    perfec- 
tion so  much  excited  the  cupidity  of  one  of  the 
Roman  formatori,  that  having  volunteered  the 
troublesome  and  difficult  task  of  packing  up  our 
antiquities  when  we  were  about  to  leave  Athens, 
he  availed  himself  of  the  opportunity  to  steal 
this  lamp;   and  the  theft  was   not  discovered 
until  the  case,  said  by  him  to  contain  it,  was 
opened  upon  its  arrival  in  England.     Possibly, 
therefore,  as  it  may  exist  in  some  Cabinet  of 
JSurope,  the  following  account  of  it  may  hereafter 
lead  to  the  knowledge  of  its  situation ;  if  it  do 
not  prove  the  cause  of  its  destruction.     It  was 
of  a  black  colour,  like  our  dark  Wedgwood  ware  : 
when  first  offered  to  us,  it  seemed  to  be  cor- 
roded and  porous ;  but  after  it  had  imbibed  a 
little  oil,   it  appeared  as  perfect  as  if  it  had 
recently  issued  from  the  hands  of  the  Athenian 
potter.      In   shape  and  size  it   resembled    the 
generality  of  antient  terra-cotta  lamps ;    being 
of  a  circular  form,  and  about  three  inches  in 
diameter,  with  a  protruding  lip  for  the  wick  in 
one  part  of  the  circumference.     Upon  the  top  of 
it,  a  lion   was   represented  in  an    erect    pos- 
ture ;  the  figure  of  the  animal  expressing  all  the 
energy  and  greatness  of  style  peculiar  to  the 


342 


ATHENS. 


<*•**.   best  age  of  sculpture.    Within  the  circle  at  tbe 
bottom  of  the  lamp  was  this  inscription  : 


Carious 

Inscription  I  fl  K  P  A  T 

upon  a 

Terra-  H  Z  E  X  E 

Lamp.  ZI10N 

SOCRATES  '  ACCEPT  *  THIS  *  ANIMAL 

It  teems  therefore  to  have  been  originally 
of  those  offerings   called  vtpripwv   ayaX^ara  by 
Euripides1,  the  imagines,  or,  as  usually  trans- 
lated, grata  munera,    which  the    friends  of  a 
deceased  person  were  wont  to  carry  after  the^ 
corpse  during  the  funeral  procession :  and  per- 
haps it  was  deposited  in  the  grave  of  the  most^^t 
celebrated  philosopher  of  the  antient  world. 

During  the  first  days  of  November  we  con 
tinued  our  researches  with  the  utmost  diligent 
both  in  making  these  excavations,  and  in  end* 
vouring  to  find  Inscriptions  which  had  escapev  d 
the  notice  of  former  travellers.     Upon  the  thiiw 
of  this  month  we  set  out  upon  an  excursion 


(1 )  Koc  prjv  ipd  *&»  raripa  ytp*¥p  «■©$* 

XtiIxovt9  6xaio$c  r*  iv  \tpo\v  Mfiaprt  ef 
Kovftov  fipevract  vtprtpvv  JtyAXpara. 

Jftmp*i.tajlfc.Y.619.p.88»-    Can**.  ION. 


ATHENS.  343 

Hymbttus*,  intending  to  visit  the  summit  of  chap. 


the  mountain.  Haying  taken  with  us  horses,  a 
guide,  and  provisions  for  the  day,  we  leftdolTto 
Athens  for  this  purpose,  at  sun-rise ;  Signor  ***'*"* 
ljusieri  being  of  our  party.  In  our  way,  we 
crossed  the  Ilissus ;  and  again  passing  the  Sta- 
imtHy  we  visited  a  small  Greek  chapel  toward 
the  east,  upon  the  top  of  a  hill.  This  building 
Wis  alluded  to  in   the   preceding  Chapter,  as  Temple  of 

Diana* 

(narking  the  site  pf  the  Temple  of  Diana  Agrcoa, 
>r  Agrotera.  W$  saw  here  the  remains  of 
solumns  of  three  distinct  orders  in  architecture  ; 
the  most  antient  J)oric,  the  Ionic,  and  the  Oorvsr 
thian.  It  is  rather  the  situation  of  the  building, 
with  reference  to  the  line  of  observation  pur- 
sued by  Pausanias*,  than  any  specific  part  of 
its  remaining  antiquities,  which  may  be  relied 
upon,  as  denoting  where  this  temple  of  Diana, 


(S)  "  Many  placet  in  Greece  preserve  their  antient  names :  others 
ittaln  them  with  a  slight  alteration;  as,  JKimbo  for  Olympus; 
Zyakoura  for  Parnassus,  from  Lycorea  the  ancient  city  npon  that 
mountain :  others  bear  appellations  Imposed  on  them  by  the  Venetians 
and  Genoese :  but  no  instance  has  occurred  of  a  more  singular  meta- 
morphosis in  Grecian  nomenclature  than  in  the  name  of  Hymbttub. 
The  Venetians,  who  called  it  Monte  Hymetto,  corrupted  it  into  Monte 
Motto:  Matto  signifies  mad ;  and  the  Modern  Greeks  have  chosen  to 
translate  the  two  words  literally,  by  Trelo*  Vouni,  *  the  Mad  Moun- 
tain.' "    WatpoUt  MS.  Journal. 

(3)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Atticis,  c.  19.  p.  44.  Edit.  Kuhnii.   Lips.  1606. 


344  ATHENS. 

chap,  stood.    After  his  visit  to  the  Gardens,  and  the 

VI 

v^  Temple  of  Venus  (in  hortis),  having  mentioned 
the  Shrine  of  Hercules  (which  was  called 
Cynos&rges),  and  the  Lyceum,  and  being  still 
eastward  of  the  Stadium,  he  crosses  the 
Ilissus,  in  that  part  of  it  where  it  received  the 
Eridanus  ;  here,  entering  Agra,  or  Agile1, 
immediately  upon  his  arrival  at  the  [southern 
side  of  the  river9,  he  notices  the  Temple  01 
Diana  Agrotera.  No  part  of  his  description 
seems  therefore  involved  in  less  uncertainty 
than  his  position  of  this  edifice;  which  exactlj 
corresponds  with  that  of  the  Greek  chapel  non 
mentioned. 

Monastery.  Hence  we  proceeded  to  the  Monastery  o 
Saltan?,  upon  Mount  Hymettus.  Chandle 
believed  this  to  have  been  antiently  renowne* 
as  the  scene  where  the  jealous  Procris  met  he 


(1)  '  Ay  pa  tKai"  Ay  pai,  x*piov,  iviK&c  icai  irXnOvvrur&c.  Stephana 
Vid.Meurs.  lib.  de  Populis  Attica,  ap.  Gronov.  Thesaur.  Grcec.  Anti 
vol.  IV.  p.  683.    L.  Bat.  1699. 

(2)  Aiafiaei  6k  rbv  ECKtffffbv,  %wp£ov  "Aypai  taXovfitvov,  cat  va* 
' Ay porkpag  loriv  'Aprtfiitoc..     Pausan.  c.  19.  p.  45.     Lips.  1696. 

(3)  So  we  believed  the  name  to  be  pronounced ;  perhaps  corrupt* 
from  some  derivative  of  Sa\tvta9Jluetuo :  the  water  here  continual 
gushing  forth.  WheUr  calls  this  place  H agios  Kyriani;  Chandh 
Cyriani :  and  Stuart  has  written  it,  in  his  Map  of  Attica,  Monatte 
of  Syriani. 


ATHENS.  345 

fate  from  the  unerring  dart  of  Diana,  which  she    chap. 
had  given  to  her  husband  Cephalus*.     A  temple 
of  Venus  stood  upon  the  spot ;   and  near  to  it 
there  was  a  fountain  whose  water  was  believed 
to  conduce  to   pregnancy,  and  to  facilitate  par- 
turition.    The  modern  superstition  with  regard 
to  the  fountain,  which  is  close  to  the  Convent, 
confirmed  his  opinion  in  a  manner  that  he  does 
oot  appear  to  have  noticed  :  the  priest  told  him, 
that  "  a  dove  is  seen  to  fly  down  from  heaven, 
to  drink  of  the  water  annually,  at  the  Feast  of 
Pentecost."     It  is  remarkable  that  an  ignorant 
superstition  should  thus  have  selected   the  bird 
which    was   peculiarly   sacred    to  Venus:    and 
Chandler  also   adds,  that  the  Greek  women  still 
repair  to   the  Monastery  at  particular  seasons. 
Being  earnest  in  the  pursuit  of  antiquities,  we 
neglected  to  attend,  as  we  ought  to  have  done, 
to  the   traditions   of  the  inhabitants;    but   we 
found  enough  to  convince  us  that   this  was  the 
site  of  some   antient  temple.     We  observed  in 
the  church    of    the   Monastery    several    Ionic 
columns ;  also  the   shaft  of  a  pillar  of  granite ; 
and  at  the  fountain  we  saw  the  head  of  a  bull,  or 
of  a  corf,  sculptured  upon  a  white  marble  Soros, 


(4)  See  Cha*dUr>t  Trm?.  in  Greece,  p.  145.     Oxf.  1770. 

(5)  The  Vbnus  of  Egypt  and  of  Phcenice  hmd   this   form.    The 

image 


346  ATHENS. 

chap,  now   used    as  a  cistern.      This    Monastery  is 
visible  from  A  then*.     The  water  from  the  foun- 
tain fells  into  the  Ilissus.     We   found  here  a 
slab  of  white  marble,  with  an  inscription  :  the 
stone  had   been  brought  from  some  ruins  near 
another  convent,  higher  up  than  the  Monastery, 
and  upon  an  opposite  eminence  towards  A  than. 
Our  guide  wished  much  to  conduct  us  thither ; 
but  we  postponed   going,  in  order  to  copy  this 
inscription,  until  it  was  too  late  ;  as  we  wished 
to  reach  the  summit  of  Hymettu*  before  noon, 
that  we  might  there  estimate  the  temperature 
pf  the  atmosphere,  and  also  avail  ourselves  of 
the  clearness  and    serenity  of  the  weather  for* 
other  observations.     From  the  distant  view  wo 
had   of  those  ruins,  added   to   the  description 
given  of  them,  there  seemed    to  be  a  ground 
plot  and   foundation  as  for   a    temple.      This 
marble,  which  had  been  brought  from  the  spot, 
will  of   course   render   the   place    worthy   the 
examination   of  future   travellers.     The  subject 
of  the   Inscription  relates  to  the  genealogy  of 
some    family.     We    have  since   found  that  it 


image  of  Isifl,  according  to  Herodotus  (lib.  ii.)»  bad  *"«  {oTm  °*  • 
woman  with  the  horns  of  a  cow  upon  her  head,  as  the  Oreekmt 
represented  IO.  Wheler  seems  to  allude  to  this  piece  of  sculpture, 
(See  Journey  into  Greece,  Book  VII.  p.  411.  Lond.  1683.)  but  be  cabs 
it  "a  sheep's  head." 


ATHENS.  347 

has  been  already  published  by  Chandler,  who   chap. 
takes  no  notice  of  the  place  where  it  was  origin  v^v-w* 
nally  discovered  ;  but  as  it  may  be  consulted  in 

the  works  of  that  author,  we  shall  not  offer  it  a 

second  time  to  the  public1. 

From  this  Monastery  it  is  practicable  to  ride 
the  whole  way  to  the  summit  of  Hymettus ;  but 
we  preferred  walking,  that  we  might  the  more 
leisurely  examine  every  object,  and  collect  the 
few  plants  in  flower  at  this  late  season  of  the  visit  to  the 
yew*.     We  saw  partridges  in  great  abundance ;  th^Moon- 
«nd  bees,  in  all  parts  of  the  mountain  :  not  only tain' 
*t  the  Monastery,   where  a   regular  apiary  is 
kept,  but  also  in  such  number  dispersed  and 
feeding  about  the  higher  parts  of  Hymettus,  that 
the  primeval  breed3  may  still  exist  among  the 
numerous  wild  stocks  which  inhabit  the  hollow 
trees  and  clefts  of  the  rocks.     Their  favourite 
food,  the  wild   Thyme  (ipvvXkov,    Thymus   Ser- 
pylhtm  Linn.),  in   almost  every  variety,  grows 


(1)  Vld.  Inecript.  Antiq.  p  .64.  AAAOTKO,  *.  r.  X. 

(*)  Our  specimens  were  all  lost  in  the  wreck  of  the  Prineesta  mer- 
chantman ;  bat  WheUr  has  given  a  catalogue  of  the  plants  collected 
by  him  in  the  month  of  February,  upon  this  mountain.  &f  Journey 
htio  Greece,  BookW. p.  A\A.    Land.  1682. 

(3)  The  AntienU  believed  that  bees  were  first  bred  here,  and  that 
all  other  beta  were  bat  colonies  from  this  mountain. 


348  ATHENS. 

chap,    abundantly  upon  the  mountain,   together  with 
Salvia  pomifera,  and  Salvia  verbascum  ;  and  to 
this    circumstance     may   be    owing    the   very 
heating  quality  of  the  honey  of  Hymettus.     The 
powerful   aromatic    exhalation  of  these   plants 
fills  the   air  with  a  spicy  odour :  indeed,  this 
scented  atmosphere   is  a  very   striking  charac- 
teristic of    Greece  and   of   its   islands,   but  it 
peculiarly  distinguishes  the  mountains  of  Attica* 
The  9wjuoc  of  Theophrastus  and  JDioscarides  wi 
used  as    incense   in    the  temples.     We 
nothing  of  the  silver  mines1  mentioned  bv  Strobes 


(I)  "The    Athenians,    we  are     informed,    obtained    copper 
Colone,  dote  to  Athens ;   where  Sophocles  has  laid  the  scene  of  o> 
of  his  most  beautiful  plays.    Silver  was    procured  from 
and  was  the  metal  in  general    circulation:    there  were  ten  difle 
coins  of  silver,  from  the  tetradrachm  to  the  quarter    of  an  obol 
Lead  was  purchased  from  theTyrians:  Tbv  poXvfidov  rbv  U  tUv 
are  the  words  of  Aristides.    II.  De  Cur.  Rei  Fam.  396.    Gold  was       *> 
scarce,  at  one  time,  in  Greece,  that  the  Lacedaemonians  could  mTatf 
none  to  gild  the  face  of  the  statue  of  Apollo  at  A  my  else,    (od*  «vpi#- 
kovtiq  kv  tj  'RXkdd  gpvtriov,  Athene,  832.) and  therefore  tent  to  Lydk 
for  it.  There  was  an  abundance  when  the  Temple  of  Apollo  was  plundered 
by  the  Phocian  tyrants,  and  when  Alexander  had  pillaged,  says  Atbe- 
nseus,  the  treasures   of  Asia :  lib.  vl.  231.    It  is  worth  remarking, 
that  we  can  tell  pretty  nearly  the  century  in  which  the  mines  of  allrer 
of  Laurium  (which  was  about  thirty  miles  S.  E.  from  Athens)  begi* 
to  fail ;  at  least  according  to  the  opinion  of  the  Antients.    Thacydidsi 
mentions  them  in  two  places  of  bis  History  (Book  ii.  and  vi.);  in  the 
sixth  book  he  talks  of  the  revenue  derived  from  the  silver  mines,  It 
is  the  object  of  a  treatise  of  Xenophon  to  recommend  the  Athenian 
to  work  the  silver  mines  of  Laurium  (w<pi  wopvv).    But  what  do  Stftbo 
and  Pausanias  say  ?    The  latter  asserts  that  they  had  failed.    Strafe* 

words 


» 


ATH  ENS. 


349 


where  the  hest  honey  of  Hymettus  was  found.    °**Tm 
The  ascent  was  truly  delightful ;   the  different 
prospects  varying  in  extent  and  magnificence, 
as    we    pursued    a    devious   track   among  the 
rocks,  in  our  way  upward   to   the   top   of  the 
mountain.  We  reached  the  summit  about  twelve 
o'clock :    there  was  no  wind,  and  the  sky  was 
without  a  cloud.      We  had  some  difficulty  to 
find  a  shaded  situation  for   the   thermometer: 
however,  the  difference  amounted  only  to  three 
degrees  of  Fahrenheit,  whether   the  scale   re- 
mained in  the  shade,  or  exposed   to  the  sun's 
rays.     The  mercury  stood  at  48°  in  the  former 
situation,  and  it  rose  only  to  51°  in  the  latter; 
affording  sufficient  proof  of  the  mild  climate  of 
Attica,   in    this   warm   temperature    upon    the 
summit  of  its  loftiest  mountain,  in  the  beginning 
of  the  month  of  November*.     Even  upon  this 


words  are  dedti? e  as  to  this  point :  (Book  be.)  '  The  silver  mioes  in 
Attica,  formerly  celebrated,  are  now  deficient.  The  men  who  work 
there,  submitting  again  to  the  operation  of  fire  the  former  refuse  and 
scoria  {ptcmoiav),  find  silver  still  in  it :  the  Antients  having  used  their 
faimccs  without  any  skill/  The  ground  about  Lanrium  is  covered 
frequently,  for  many  yards,  with  great  quantities  of  scoria,  lying  in  the 
road.'*    WalpoWs  MS.  Journal. 

(9)  It  may,  perhaps,  be  asked  why  the  author  did  not  carry  a 
hmrometer,  rather  than  a  thermometer,  to  the  summit  of  Hymettu* : — 
•imply,  because  such  instruments  are  not  found  in  any  part  of  the 

indeed  any  where  else,  in  perfection,  except  in 


360  ATHENS, 

<*>**•   elevated  spot,  and  upon  the  naked  surface  of  the 
limestone,  without  an  herb  or  a  drop  of  water 
to  allure  it,   one  of  the  wild   bees  came  and 
settled  upon  the  scale  of  the  thermometer.     We 
did  not    perceive    any    remarkable    difference 
between    the  appearance  of   this  insect  upon 
Hymettus,   and    the   common  bee  of  our  own 
country,  except    that   we   thought  the   former 
rather  smaller,  and  of  a  more  golden   colour. 
Jbusieri    had    already    placed   himself  upon  a 
sloping  part  of  the  summit  facing  the  south, 
and  was  beginning  to  delineate  the  wonderful 
sight  he  beheld.       From  the    spot   where  lie 
was  seated,  a  tremendous  chasm  of  HymetUm 
awfully  grand,  extended,  in  one  wide  amazing 
sweep,   from   the   summit  to   the   base   of  the 
mountain.      Into  this  precipitous  ravine  there 
projected    from    its    side    the    most  enormous 
crags  and  perpendicular  rocks.     These  he  had 
chosen   to   be   the  fore-ground   of  his  sublime 
picture ;  the  eye  looking  down  into  an  abyss, 
which   at  the   bottom   opened  into   a  glorious 
valley,  reaching   across  the  whole  promontory 
of  Attica,  from  sea  to  sea.     Beyond  appeared 
the   broad  and  purple  surface  of  the  JEgean, 
-studded  with  innumerable  islands,  and  shining 
with  streaks  of  the  most  effulgent  light.     While 
he  was  engaged  in  his  delightful  employment, 


ATHENS.  351 

we  undertook  a  task  of  less  difficulty  ;  namely,  C&AP- 
that  of  making  a  panoramic  survey  of  all  the  ^v^ 
principal  objects ;  noting  their  situation  accord- 
ing to  the  points  of  a  mariner's  compass,  which 
we  placed  upon  the  upmost  pinnacle  of  the 
mountain  ;  beginning  with  the  north  point,  and 
proceeding  regularly  from  left  to  right,  so  as 
to  complete  an  entire  circumference,  whose  centre 
u  the  summit  of  Hymettus. 

Panoramic  Survey  of  Attica,  the  jEgean 
Sea,  frc.from  the  Summit  of  Hymettus. 

North. 

Parnes    Mountain,   and    the   valley   east  of  Panoramic 
Athens,  leading  to  Pentelicus  :  the  highest  point  oMif/ 
of  Parnes  bearing  due  north.  oun  Iy* 

North  North-East. 

A  very  high  mountain  covered  with  snow,  of 
a  conical  form,  but  at  so  great  a  distance  that 
we  could  not  decide  with  certainty  as  to  its 
name:  possibly  it  may  have  been  the  mountain 
mentioned  by  Wheler,  belonging  to  Eubcea,  and 
now  called  Delphi1;  but  the  bearing,  according 


(1)  See  Journey  into  Grcec*,  p.  410.    Lend.  1082. 


352  ATHENS. 

chap,    to  his    observation,    was    north    and    by    east. 

vi.  /  9 

Nearer  to  the  eye,  in  this  direction  (n.  n.  e.),  is 
one  of  the  mountains  of  Eubcea,  extending 
from  north  and  by  east  to  north-east ;  that  is  to 
say,  the  mountainous  chain  of  Negropont. 

North-East. 

Pentelicus  Mountain,  intercepting,  with  its 
summit,  the  visible  range  of  the  Negropont 
Mountains. 

North-East  and  by  East. 

The  range  of  Eubcean  Mountains  (olim,  Ocha 
Mons),  extending  to  east  and  by  south ;  the  Sea 
of  Marathon  intervening  in  front. 

East. 

The  Southern  Promontory  of  Eubcea,  called 
Caristo. 

East  and  by  South. 
The  Strait  between  Andros  and  Eubcea. 

East  South-East. 
The  summit  of  Andros. 

South-East  and  by  East. 

Tenos  :  nearer  to  the  eye,  and  nearly  in  th^ 
same  direction,  the  north  point  of  Macronisi,  oC 


353 


ATHENS. 

Ule    op    Helena,   extending   thence    towards   Cvf.P' 
wuth-cast  and  by  south. 

South-East. 

Gyaros,  now  called  Jura ;  and  half  a  point 
more  towards  the  south,  Mycone,  and  the 
Deli  an  Isles. 

South-East  and  by  South. 

Eastern  point  of  Zia,  Ceos  ;  this  island  con- 
cealing all  the  Cyclades  excepting  Cythnus, 
dow  Thermia. 

South  South-East. 
Island  of  Ceos,  now  Zia. 

South  and  by  East 

Cythnus,  now  Thermia,  appearing  beyond 
-he  southern  point  of  Ceos  ;  and  nearer  to  the 
!ye,  a  mountain  extending  across  the  pro- 
montory of  Attica  from  sea  to  sea,  being 
Pposed  by  Hymettus,  (perhaps  that  called 
u  limbo).  Still  nearer,  beneath  the  view,  the 
Heat  valley  which  lies  between  the  two 
fountains,  composing  the  three  grand  features 
^  all  Attica,  south-east  of  Athens. 

South. 

Cape  Sunium,  bearing  into  the  sea,  in  a 
tie  from  north-east  to  south-west. 

VOL.    VI.  A    A 


354  ATHENS. 

South  and  by  West. 

A  lofty  cape,  with  lower  islands  so  much 
resembling  the  Cape  and  Precipice  of  Samos, 
with  the  Samian  Boccaze,  and  the  Isles  of  Foumi 
and  Nicaria,  that  nothi;  g  but  its  situation  t»y 
the  compass  could  convince  us  to  the  contrary. 
The  mde  sketch  made  upon  the  spot  will  gi 


/ 


an  idea  of  its  appearance.     We  know  not  the 
name  either  of  the  cape  or  of  the  islands.     The 
distance  in  which  they  are  here  viewed  was  the 
utmost  stretch  of  the  radius  of  our  circle  :  they 
were  seen  only  by  the  outline  of  their   forms, 
thus  interrupting  the  horizontal  line  of  the  sea- 
The  only  land  in  this  direction,  as  laid  down  i*» 
D'Anville's  Chart  of  the  Archipelago,  that  could 
have  been  visible  to  us,  is  the  Island  ofFalconbra    * 
Milo  being  to  the   east  of  the  south.      XeaTe^ 
to  the  eye,  in  the  same  direction,  we  saw  th^^ 
Island  of  St.  George  JPArborL 

Between  South  and  by  West,  and  South  South 

West. 

An  island   at  an   immense  distance,  perhaps*3* 
Caravi:  it  had  some  resemblance  to   Paimos      j 


ATHENS.  355 

and  our  stupid  guide  insisted  upon  it  that  it  was    chap. 
actually  Patmos;  calling  it  also  'Aymvfcn,  "Holy 
hhrnd." 

South  South- West. 

The  open  sea.  Close  to  the  eye,  upon  the 
oast  of  Attica,  a  large  mountain,  forming,  on 
bis  side  of  Hymettus,  a  profound  and  magni- 
cent  valley  with  precipitous  sides. 

South-West  and  by  South. 

An  island  somewhat  resembling  Amorgos  in 
ts  shape,  but  quite  in  a  different  situation, 
ppearing  beyond  the  south-eastern  point  of 
^fydra;  perhaps  Belo  Poulo. 

South-West. 

Aristera,  now  called  Hydra ;  extending  in  a 
ine  from  the  south-east  towards  the  north-west. 

South-West  and  by  West. 

The  Scyllean  Promontory,  and  entrance 
o  the  Gulph  of  Aroos  ;  a  small  island  lying  in 
he  mouth  of  it :  the  whole  territory  of  Argolis 
>eing  visible  in  this  direction  ;  its  mountainous 
idges  exhibiting  vast  irregular  undulation**, 
ike  the  boiling  of  a  troubled  sea. 

A    A    2 


356  ATHENS. 


CF|*P-  West  South-West . 


Sinus  Saronicus:'  the  Island  of  jEgina, 
backed  by  the  Mountains  of  Epidaurcjs. 

West  and  by  South. 

More  distant  summits  of  Peloponnesus,  even 
to  Arcadia,  seen  between  two  small  islands  north- 
west of  JEgina. 

West. 

Smaller  Isles,  and  Rocks,  towards  the  north 
of  the  Saronic  Gulph  ;  and  distant  Mountains  of 
Peloponnesus. 

West  and  by  North. 

Phalerum  ;    and    beyond    it,   the   south-west 
part  of  the  Island  of  Salamis. 

West  North-  West. 

Pirjeeus  ;  the  Island  of  Salamis  ;  tli£ 
Acropolis  of  Corinth,  backed  by  very  lofty 
mountains,  separating  Arcadia  and  Achaia,  io 
the  interior  of  Peloponnesus. 

North-West  and  by  West. 

Megara  ;  Mons  Geranea  ;   and  other  high 
mountains  more  distant. 


ATHENS.  357 

North-West.  chap. 

VI. 

Eleusis,  backed  by  a  mountainous  territory : 
the  extremity  of  the  Saronic  Gulph  :  and  in 
this  direction  the  point   of  JEgaleos  is   visible 

where  Xerxes  is  supposed  to  have  sat  during  the 

battle  of  Salamis. 

Then  succeeds  the  Plain  of  Athens,  covered, 
°i*  the  northern  side,  by  extensive  olive-plan- 
tations :  afterwards,  still  nearer  to  the  eye, 
appear  the  Acropolis  and  City  of  Athens,  and 
aH  the  Athenian  Plain  at  the  foot  of  Hymettus. 
Athens,  as  viewed  from  this  situation,  makes  a 
n^ost  beautiful  appearance:  a  description  of  it 
111  ^y  be  written  as  from  a  model.  It  lies  in  a 
v^lley,  having  Phalerum  and  the  Sea  to  the 
^e*/ ;  Mount  Pentelicus  to  the  east ;  the 
Mountainous  range  of  Parnes,  or  Nozia,  to  the 
*°r*A ;  and  Hymettus  upon  the  south.  In  the 
Plain  of  this  fine  valley,  thus  surrounded  by 
vagt  natural  ramparts,  there  are  other  very 
r^markable  geological  features.  A  series  of  six 
|Osular  mountain  rocks,  of  breccia,  surmounted 
by  limestone,  rise  in  the  plain  in  very  regular 
succession,  from  the  east  towards  the  west; 
(that  is  to  say,  from  Pentelicus  towards  the  sea  ;) 
gradually  diminishing  in  that  direction.  The 
Sill  of  Musceus  is  the  last  of  the  succession  ;  that 


358  ATHENS. 

chap,  is  to  say,  it   is  the  sixth  in  the  .series  towi 
Phdlerum.     The  A  cropolis  of  A  thens  stands  u 
the  fifth,  or  the  last  but  one,  towards  the  sea. 
fourth  is  the  lofty  rock  called  Mount  Anchesn 
and  this  rock,  by  some  convulsion  of  Nature, 
been  separated  into  two  parts :  farther  towj 
the  east  are  three  other,  carrying  on  the  sc 
towards  Pentelicus.     On  the  northern  side  of 
city  is  a   range    of  olive   plantations:  bet* 
these   and   Hymettus,   in    the   plain   occurs 
chain  of  rocks,  extending  east  and  west : 
south  side  of  the  plain,  nearer  to  the  base 
HymettuSj  wears   a   barren   aspect1,  broken 


(1)  "On  the  road  from  Marathon  to  the  Monastery  on  Pentt 
and  <m  that  from  Keratia  back  to  Athens,  we  passed  some  spots  • 
in  beauty  of  natural  scenery  might  vie  with  any  thing  we  had  si 
Greece.  The  Athenians  were  very  partial  to  a  country  life  (T 
dides9  lib.  ii.)  ;  and  many  of  these  places,  like  that  beautiful  rills 
Cephissias,  seven  miles  to  the  north  of  Athens,  which  Aulu*  G 
has  described,  were  the  favourite  abodes  of  the  Athenians,  whe 
they  could  retire  from  the  noise  of  the  popular  assemblies  at  A 
It  does  not  however  appear  that  they  attended  much  to  the  agrici 
of  the  country:  "  Every  man/'  says  Xenophon,  (de  (Econ.)  "ma 
farmer;  no  art  or  skill  is  requisite  :"  a  very  good  proof,  observes  f 
that  agriculture  was  not  much  understood.  When  we  considei 
and  the  natural  sterility  of  Attica,  which  the  Antients  so  often 
tion,  (see  the  Schol.  on  Olym.  7.  of  Pindar,)  we  cannot  but  wood 
the  great  population  which  the  country  was  able  to  maintain.  I 
says  barley  was  indigenous  in  the  north  of  Attica:  and  the  olive 
which  abounds  in  this  couutry,  might  have  contributed  to  the  su 
of  great  numbers ;  it  being  used  antiently,  as  it  is  now,  for  a  coc 

a 


ATHENS.  359 

nountainets,  hills,  and  rocks.    Parnes,  Pentelicus,    chap. 
and  Hymettus,  are  all  barren,  and,  from  this 
elevation,  seem  to  be  destitute  of  trees. 

North-West  and  by  North. 

Cxceeding   high  mountains   of   Bceotia  and 

Pqocis  ;  one,  nearer  to  the  eye,  shaped  like  a 

**cWfe,  forming  a  range  with  Parnes  from  e.  n.  e. 

to  -w.  s.  w.     In  this  direction,  and   immediately 

under  the  view,  lies  the  double-rock  of  Anches- 

m,UrS9  in  the  Athenian  plain,  to  the  east  of  Athens. 
*^ith  regard  to  the  distant  mountains,  they  are 

Probably  Helicon,  now  Zagara,  and  Cith^iron, 

ttOw  Elatcea.     Wheler  lays  the  first  n.w.  by  w. ; 

a**d   the    second,    he    says,  begins  N.w.  by  w. 

a**d  ends  n.w.  by  n. 

North  North-West . 
Another    distant    and    very    lofty   mountain, 


***~ticle  of  daily  food.     But  immense  supplies  of  corn  were  constantly 

'^ported  from  Sicily,  Egypt,  and  the  Euxinc.     Attica  was  not  able  to 

**liintaio  her  inhabitants:    these  we  may  calculate,  in  the  year  312 

A..C.  at  524,000;    supposing  the  text  in  Atbenseus  to  be  not  corrupted. 

**aere  were  21,000  citizens,  and  10,000  strangers:   allowing  to  each  of 

Dicse  a  wife  and  two  children,  we  have  the  number  of  free  persons, 

^  24,000;  and  adding  the  slaves,  (according  to  Athcnccus,)  400,000,  we 

Und  524,000   to   be   the   aggregate.       Attica    contained    855    square 

Wagues."     WalpoU's  MS.  Journal. 


360  ATHENS. 

chap,    appearing  with  its  blue  peak  towering  behind  the 
range  of  Mount  Parnes,  and  possibly  Parnassus. 

* 

North  and  by  West. 

Part  of  the  range  of  Parnes  ;  and,  nearer  to 
the  eye,  the  fine  valley  or  plain  of  Athens. 

North. 

Has  been  already  noticed.     The  Circle  is  there- 
fore here  completed. 

The  desire  of  leaving  a  memorial  of  the  visit 
one  has  paid  to  any  memorable  spot,  seems  to 
be  so  natural,  that  however  the  practice  may 
have  been  derided,  the  most  eminent  travellers, 
in  common  with  the  most  insignificant,  have  left 
their  names  in  some  conspicuous  situation: 
those  of  Wheler  and  Spon  have  been  observed 
upon  the  walls  of  the  Temple  of  Theseus  ;  that 
of  Shaw  remains  in  the  Franciscan  Convent  at 
Jerusalem  ;  that  of  Pococke  at  Thebes,  in  Upper 
Egypt ;  and  that  of  Hasselquist  upon  the  prin- 
cipal pyramid  of  Memphis.  Upon  the  summit 
of  Hymettus  no  such  inscriptions  appeared  ;  but 
the  naked  surface  of  the  limestone  seemed  to 
be  so  well  calculated  for  their  preservation,  that 
we  felt  a  reluctance  to  return  without  carving 
our  names  upon  the  top  of  the  mountain.     As 


\ 


ATHENS.  361 

soon  as  we  had   done  this,  we  descended  once    chap. 

VI. 

more  towards  the  Convent,  where  we  arrived 
late  in  the  evening,  and  immediately  proceeded 
to  Athens. 


The  following  day  was  attended  by  a  singular 
adventure.  We  had  agreed  to  spend  the  greater 
part  of  this  day  with  Lusieri,  among  the  anti- 
quities of  the  Citadel;  and  for  the  purpose,  Mr. 
Oripps  accompanied  him  to  the  Acropolis  soon 
after  breakfast.  The  author  followed  towards 
n<H>n.      About    half-way   up   the     steep   which  siuguiar 

I  it  Adventure 

leads  to    the   Propytea,    he   heard  a  noise  oftnatbefei 

I  .  the  Author. 

^Ughter   and  of  many  clamorous  voices,  pro- 

c Ceding  from  a  building  situate  in  an  area  upon 

***e  left  hand,    which   had   the   appearance   of 

k^ing  a  public  bath.     As  it  is  always  customary 

**>r  strangers  to  mingle  with  the  Moslems  in  such 

Places  without   molestation,  and  as  it  had  been 

*lie  author's  practice  to  bathe  frequently  for  the 

preservation  of  his  health,  he  advanced  without 

further    consideration     towards    the     entrance, 

^hich  he  found  covered   with  a  carpet  hanging 

before  it.     No  human   creature   was  to  be  seen 

without  the  bath,  whether  Turk  or  Greek.     This 

Was  rather  remarkable;    but   it  seemed  to  be 

explained   in    the    numbers    who   were   heard 

talking  within.     As  the  author  drew  nearer  to 


362  ATHENS. 

chap,  the  door  of  the  building,  the  voices  were  heard 

vi  • 

rather  in  a   shriller  tone  than  usual ;    but  nc 

suspicion  entering  into  his  mind,  as  to  the  sort 
of  bathers  which  he  would  find  assembled,  he 
put  aside  the  carpet,  and,  stepping  beneath  the 
main  dome  of  the  bagnio,  suddenly  found  him- 
self in  the  midst  of  the  principal  women  ol 
Athens,  many  of  whom  were  unveiled  in  every 
sense  of  the  term,  and  all  of  them  in  utter 
amazement  at  the  madness  of  the  intrusion. 
The  first  impulse  of  astonishment  entirely  super- 
seded all  thought  of  the  danger  of  his  situation : 
he  remained  fixed  and  mute  as  a  statue.  A 
general  shriek  soon  brought  him  to  his  recol- 
lection. Several  black  female  slaves  ran  towards 
him,  interposing  before  his  face  napkins,  and 
driving  him  backwards  towards  the  entrance 
He  endeavoured,  by  signs  and  broken  sen- 
tences, to  convince  them  that  he  came  there  t< 
bathe  in  the  ordinary  way ;  but  this  awkwarc 
attempt  at  an  apology  converted  their  fears  ink 
laughter,  accompanied  by  sounds  of Hist!  Hist 
and  the  most  eager  entreaties  to  him  to  absconc 
quickly,  and  without  observation.  As  he  drem 
back,  he  distinctly  heard  some  one  say,  ir 
Italian,  that  if  he  were  seen  he  would  be  shot 
By  this  time  the  negro  women  were  arounc 
him,   covering  his  eyes  with   their    hands  anc 


ATHENS.  363 

towels,  and  rather  impeding    his   retreat,    by   chap. 
pushing   him    blindfolded    towards    the   door ;  ^*y^, 
whence  he  fled  with  all  possible  expedition.     As 
the  sight  of  women    in    Turkey   is  rare,    and 
always  obtained  with  difficulty,  the  Reader  may 
perhaps  wish  to  know  what  sort  of  beings  the 
author  saw,   during  the  short  interval  that  his 
eyes  were    open  within    the  bagnio;   although 
he  can  only  describe  the  scene  from  a  confused 
recollection.      Upon  the  left  hand,  as  he  entered,  ne§crip- 
there  was  an  elderly  female,  who  appeared  to  be  ceremo-6 
of  considerable  rank,  from  the  number  of  slaves  w™L'** 
sumptuously    clad     and   in    waiting   upon    her. Baihm 
She  was  reclined,  as  it  is  usual  in  all  Turkish 
haths,  upon  a  sort    of  divdn,   or   raised   floor, 
surrounding    the    circular    hall    of    the    bath, 
Poking  and  drinking  coffee.     A  rich  embroi- 
dered covering  of  green  silk   had  been  spread 
over  her.     Her  slaves  stood   by  her  side,  upon 
the  marble  pavement  of  the  bath.     Many  other 
women  of  different  ages  were  seated,  or  stand- 
lng,  or  lying,    upon    the    same   divan.     Some 
appeared  coming  in  high  wooden  clogs  from  the 
sudatories    or   interior    chambers    of   the   bath, 
Awards  the   divan ;    their   long   hair    hanging 
dishevelled  and  straight,  almost  to  the  ground  : 
the  temperature  of  those  cells  had  flushed  their 
»^ces  with  a  warm  glow,  seldom  seen  upon  the 


364  *  ATHENS. 

chap,  pale  and  faded  cheeks  of  the  Grecian  an 
Turkish  women.  Some  of  them  were  very  hanc 
some.  Within  the  centre  of  the  area,  imm< 
diately  beneath  the  dome,  the  black  women  an 
other  attendants  of  the  bath  were  busy  heatin 
towels,  and  preparing  pipes  and  coffee  for  tl 
bathers ;  according  to  the  custom  observed  whe 
men  frequent  these  places. 

The  cause  of  this  mistake  remains  now  to  b 
explained.  This  bath  was  not  peculiarly  bc 
apart  for  the  use  of  females  :  it  was  frequente 
also  by  the  male  inhabitants;  but  at  state 
hours  the  women  have  the  privilege  of  appw 
priating  it  to  their  use ;  and  this  happened  t 
be  their  time  of  bathing ;  consequently  the  me 
were  absent.  Upon  such  occasions,  the  Gra 
and  Turkish  women  bathe  together :  owing 
this  circumstance,  the  news  of  the  adventu: 
was  very  speedily  circulated  over  all  Athen 
As  we  did  not  return  until  the  evening,  tl 
family  with  whom  we  resided,  hearing  of  tl 
affair,  began  to  be  uneasy,  lest  it  had  bet 
brought  to  a  serious  termination  ;  well  knowii 
that  if  any  of  the  Arnaouts,  or  of  the  Turki 
guard  belonging  to  the  Citadel,  had  seen  a  nu 
coming  from  the  bath  while  the  women  we 
there,    they,    without   hesitation    or   ccremon 


ATHENS.  365 

would  have  put  him  instantly  to  death  :  and  the  chap. 
only  reason  we  could  assign  for  its  never  being  wv^/ 
afterwards  noticed,  was,  that  however  gene- 
rally it  became  the  subject  of  conversation 
among  the  Turkish  females  of  the  city,  their 
Moslem  masters  were  kept  in  ignorance  of  the 
transaction. 

We  remained  in  the  Citadel  during  the  rest  Farther 
of   the  day;    not  only  to  avoid    any  probable tknJin the 
consequences   of  this  affair,  but   also  that   we Acropotti' 
might  once   more  leisurely   survey    the   inter- 
esting objects  it  contains ;  and,  lastly,  have  an 
opportunity  of  seeing,  from  the   Parthenon,  the 
*un  setting  behind  the  Acropolis  of  Corinth ;  one 
of  the  finest  sights  in  all  Greece. 

It  was  mentioned  in  the  preceding  Chapter, 
that  the  frieze  of  the  Erecthhim,  and  of  its 
P°rticoes,  consists  of  a  bluish-grey  limestone, 
"^embling  slate ;  and  that  the  tympanum  of 
the  pediment  is  likewise  of  the  same  stone ;  but 
*ne  rest  of  the  temple  is  of  marble.  Perhaps 
*bis  kind  of  limestone  was  introduced  into 
those  parts  of  the  building  intended  to  contain 
'tfecriptions ;  because  the  letters,  when  cut, 
heing  of  a  different   colour  from  the  polished 


366  ATHENS. 

chap,  stone,  would  thereby  be  rendered  the  more 
conspicuous.  A  circumstance  which  renders 
this  probable,  is,  that  inscriptions  are  often 
found  upon  this  kind  of  limestone,  among  the 
remains  of  buildings  constructed  of  marble. 
The  author  found  the  following  Inscription  this 
day,  in  the  Acropolis,  upon  a  blue  slate-like 
limestone : 

nOATAAOSnOAYAAlAOYlIAIANIEYH 

EIKONATHNAANE9HKEnOAY£TPAT02AYTOYAAEA*ON 

MNHMOSYNHN0NHTOr2QMATO2A0ANATON 

The  name  written  in    the    first    line,  Polyllus, 
seems  to  have  been  inscribed  beneath  the  statue 
(image)  of  a  person  who  belonged  to  one  of  tfc*e 
SrjfjLoi  of  Attica.     Ylaiavavg  Svpog,  that  is  to  sajT» 
Pceaniensis  populus ;    for   in    the    verses  whicfa 
follow,  we  read,  that    "  Polystratus  raised  thi* 
representation — his   own   brother;    an    immortcx* 
memorial  of  a  mortal  body. " 

If  the  statue  where  of  white  marble,  the  Mil^ 
limestone  placed  below  it  may  have  bee^3 
selected  as  better  adapted  for  the  purpose  a>* 
adding  the  inscription. 

We  also  copied  an  Inscription  of  the  JRoma^^ 
times,  relating  to  "  Pammenes  the  son  of  Zeno  o>s 


ATHENS.  367 

Marathon,"  who  is  mentioned  as  Priest ;  but  it    chap. 

VI 

is  in  a  very  imperfect  state  : 

M020EAIEQMIIIKAI2 TQIKAISAPISTP A YNT02 . .  niT 

TAXnAMMENOYSTOYEHNQNOSMAPAQQNIOYIEPEQZeEAS 

MHrKA12EBA2TOY2QTHPOSEnAKPOnOAEIEniIEPEIA2A0H 
nOAIAA02MEri2TH2TH2A2KAHniAAOYAAAlEU5:eYrAT . . 

Afterwards,  Lusieri  shewed  to  us  an  inscribed 
warble  which  he  had  been  ordered  to  send  to 
|     England,  with  the  spoils  of  the  Parthenon  ;  but 
as   the  author  does  not  know  whether  it  met 
with  the  fate  of  a  large  portion  of  the  sculpture 
"*  Cerigo  Bay,  or  ultimately  reached  its  destina- 
tion, he  will  subjoin  the  copy  he  made  of  this 
Inscription  upon  the  spot,  because  it  is  one  of 
'he  most  antient  that  have  been  found  in  Greece1. 
It  ig  written  in  what  are  called  Cadmcean  letters ; 
recording  the  names  of  certain  Athenians  and 
tlicir  tribes.     The  double  vowels   were   not   in 
ff^neral  use  before  the  Archonship  of  Euclid  in 
***€  ninety-fourth  Olympiad.     Instead  of  £  we 
**5*ve    here    X*   as    in    TIMOX^ENO*.      The 
*Oxms  also  of  the  Gamma,  Lambda,  and   Sigma, 
^**e  most  antient ;  they  are  thus  written,  N ,  £, 
^*id  £.      The  H  is  used  for  the  aspirate,  as  in 
MlPOGONTIAO^.      In    other    respects,    as  it 


(1)  This  marble  it  now  in  England. 


368  ATHENS. 

chap,  is  merely  a  list  of  names,  this  is  all  which  maj 
be  here  requisite  for  its  illustration. 

EPI..PEYS  ....  *TP  . 

PAY^IAAEZ  TF  .  .  AN  .  . 

<MZ.inriAE£  EN   .  .  BA  .  .  . 

KEKPOTIAO?  1NE* 
Z.YKOMEAE? 

GEOAOPO^  ON 

AYKI.O.  EN 

ANA.I.IO£  XAE 

MENEKAE*  AEMO^TPAT 

♦  PYNIKO^#  KEN.OP1AE1 
HirOGONTIAO^  AYKEN  .... 
©EOTIMO*  T1M0^..1..NB 
£KYPOKAE(  ^OINIYTI  .  . 
XIAPEA3  AEOKA.... 
EYANN  EAO£ 

NIKO*TPATO€  A1A1  .  .  .  . 

GPA^YMAXOS  AAAYKN   .  .  . 

♦  ANIA3  OpA£ON 
KAAAlKAE*  ANTltO 
EXEOTIAAE*  ANTlO* 
AlANTlAO*  E1.1TEA1A 
KPAT1NO*  EY0Y.:AXO 
ANTIOXIAO?  N1K1PPO 
AP1ZTOMEAE* 
AMEINOKTE3  E 
AI€XINE£  N  .  E  .  .  . 


ATHENS.  30!) 

r  ANTAK£E€  A  .  €  .  .  .  chap. 

XAPIAEMO*  SOX^OIAZ.  VI* 

Tl MOX(ENO€ 

ANTI+ANE*  AYP1K 

EMPOTAIAAIA* 
PANTAKAE*  AEX  MO* 

ANNOAEMO*  MNEA0PA* 

APXIA*  nEPl    cHIAE* 

ENAM+IPOAEI  HEl    *lAO£ 

♦  l&O+PON  ONE<lMO£ 

EriGPAIKE*  HIE.  .    E 

EYKPATE*  ANA... 

EMPYAOI*  X£EN*1 

Eh IA£  A0EN    API* 

EN(EPMY£IAt  EY^PAIO* 

POZ.YMNE*TO*  XA1PY*    N 

E€(IAAOI  nO€E...TO( 

PAY^IA*!^  MENO.  .  . 

A.*.  *TPATO 

The  other  Inscriptions  which  we  collected 
"we,  and  in  the  lower  city,  have  been  already 
published.  Some  of  them  are  in  Grunter,  others 
a,ay  be  seen  either  in  Spon  or  in  Chandler1 ;  with 


''Jibe  celebrated  if  armor  Atkenieiut  bu  been,  however,  inaeca* 

*'y  edited  by  the  U«t  of  tbeee  author*.     It  was  lately  found  in  a 

•  ••ltd  state  in  the  British  Museum  ;  and  liat  since  exercised  the 

^OL.    VI.  B    B  crudltlo 


370  ATHENS. 

chap,  the  exception  of  one  which  we  afterwards  found 
^-v-w  in  a  school-room,  near  the  celebrated  Temple  of 
the  Winds*  It  was  inscribed  upon  a  marble 
bas-relief,  representing  a  female  figure  seated, 
holding  by  the  hand  an  old  man  who  is  standing 
before  her.  As  this  brief  inscription  will  be  the 
last  we  shall  notice  in  Athens,  it  may  be  here 
introduced,  as  a  companion  of  those  already 
given  in  this  Chapter.  The  Reader  is  referred 
to  Suidas  and  Harpocration  for  an  illustration  of 
the  word  Alyikuvg.  Mqilia  was  one  of  the 
Attic  &i/xot,  and  belonged  to  the  tribe  Antiochis 

PAM<MAOZMEl  S  UAOYAPXirPH 
AITIAIEYZ  ME1  S  1AA0Y 

Additional      The  sun  was  now  setting,  and  we  repaired  to 

Remarks 

upon  the  the  Parthenon.  This  building,  in  its  entire  state, 
either  as  a  Heathen  temple,  or  as  a  Christian 
sanctuary,  was  lighted  only  by  means  of  lamps : 
it  had  no  windows  ;  but  the  darkness  of  the  inte- 
rior was  calculated  to  aid  the  Pagan  ceremonies 


erudition  and  critical  acumen  of  that  accompliihed  scholar,  and  learned 
antiquary,  Richard  Payne  Knight,  Esq.  As  this  marble  was  originally 
removed  from  the  Acropolis,  it  may  be  proper  here  to  add,  that  it 
preserves  a  record  of  a  very  interesting  nature ;  nothing  less  than  the 
name  of  the  architect  who  built  the  Erecthium  ;  namely,  Philoclm 
of  AcHARN.fi.  This  part  of  the  Inscription  was  recovered  by  IF. 
Wilkin* ,  Esq.  who  communicated  the  circumstance  to  the  author. 


ATHENS.  371 

by  one  of  the  mo9t  powerful  agents  of  spersti-  chap. 
tion.  The  priests  at  Jerusalem  have  profited 
by  a  similar  mode  of  construction,  for  their  pre- 
tended miracle  of  the  "  holy  fire"  at  the  Tomb 
of  the  Messiah  ;  and  the  remains  of  many  antient 
crypts  and  buildings  in  Egypt  and  in  Greece 
seem  to  prove  that  the  earliest  places  of  idolatrous 
worship  were  all  calculated  to  obstruct  rather 
than  to  admit  the  light.  Even  in  its  present 
dilapidated    state,   the  Parthenon    still   retains 

• 

something  of  its  original  gloomy  character  :  it  is 
this  which  gives  such  a  striking  effect  to  the 
appearance  of  the  distant  scenery,  as  it  is  beheld 
through  the  portal  by  a  spectator  from  within, 
who  approaches  the  western  entrance.  The 
Acropolis  of  Corinth  is  so  conspicuous  from 
within  the  nave,  that  the  portal  of  the  temple 
seems  to  have  been  contrived  for  the  express 
purpose  of  guiding  the  eye  of  the  spectator 
precisely  to  that  point  of  view.  Perhaps  there 
was  auother  temple,  with  a  corresponding  scope 
of  observation,  within  the  Corinthian  Citadel. 
Something  of  this  nature  may  be  observed  in 
the  construction  of  old  Roman  Catholic  churches, 
where  there  are  crevices  calculated  for  the 
purpose  of  guiding  the  eye,  through  the  dark- 
ness of  the  night,  towards  other  sanctuaries 
remotely  situate;  whether   for   any   purpose  of 

b  b  2 


1 


372  ATHENS. 


chap,    religious  intercourse,  by  means  of  lights  con- 


VI. 


veying  signs  to  distant  priests  of  the  celebra- 
tion of  particular  solemnities,  or  as  beacons  for 
national  signals,  it  is  not  pretended  to  deter- 
Effectof  mine.  As  evening  drew  on,  the  lengthening 
behind  the  shadows  began  to  blend  all  the  lesser  tints, 
of^PWo-  and  to  give  breadth  and  a  bolder  outline  to 
ponnetu*.  ^  vast  objects  in   the  glorious  prospect  seen 

from  this  building,  so  as  to  exhibit  them  in 
distinct  masses  :  the  surface  of  the  Sinus 
Saronicus,  completely  land-locked,  resembled 
that  of  a  shining  lake,  surrounded  by  moun- 
tains of  majestic  form,  and  illustrious  in  the 
most  affecting  recollections.  There  is  not  one 
of  those  mountains  but  may  be  described,  in  the 
language  of  our  classic  bard,  as  "  breathing 
inspiration/9  Every  portion  of  territory  com- 
prehended in  the  general  survey  has  been 
rendered  memorable  as  the  scene  of  some 
conspicuous  event  in  Grecian  story;  either  as 
the  land  of  genius,  or  the  field  of  heroism  ;  as 
honoured  by  the  poet's  cradle,  or  by  the 
patriot's  grave ;  as  exciting  the  remembrance 
of  all  by  which  human-nature  has  been  adorned 
and  dignified  ;  or  as  proclaiming  the  awful 
mandate  which  ordains  that  not  only  talents 
and  virtue,  but  also  states  and  empires,  and 
even  the  earth   itself,  shall   pass  away.      The 


ATHENS. 


373 


declining  sun,  casting  its  last  rays  upon  the  chap. 
distant  summits  of  Peloponnesus,  and  tinging  >  -  '  > 
with  parting  glory  the  mountains  of  Argolis 
and  Achaia,  gave  a  grand  but  mournful 
solemnity  both  to  the  natural  and  the  moral 
prospect.  It  soon  disappeared.  Emblematical 
of  the  intellectual  darkness  now  covering  those 
once  enlightened  regions,  night  came  on, 
shrouding  every  feature  of  the  landscape  with 
her  dusky  veil. 


Ruin  upon  the  Site  tftht  TtupU  o/A  polio,  upon  Mount  Cynortiom. 

CHAP.  VII. 


PELOPONNESUS. 


Departure  from  Athens  for  the  Peloponnesus — 
Extraordinary  talents  of  a  Calmiick  Artist — 
Further  account  of  the  Piraeus — the  "  Long 
Walls" — Tomb  of  Themistocles — its  situation 
— remains  of  this  monument — Objects  visible  in 
passing  the  Gulph — JEg'tun —  Temple  of  Jupiter 
Paohellenius — Antiquities  near  lo  the  port — Au- 
chestri  Isle — Ignorance  of  the  Pilot — Epiada — 
Greek  Medals — Arbutus  Andrachne—  Appear- 
ance of  the  Country — Ligurio — Description  of 
a  Conak,  or  Inn — Coroni— Cathedra  of  a 
Greek  Theatre — Hieron  —  Mountains — Temple 
<j/*.5£sculapius — Stadium— ArcHitecluralTeTra- 
cottas 


V 


DEPARTURE    FROM    ATHENS.  375 

cottas — Temple  of  the  Coryphaean  Diana — 
Temple  of  Apollo —  Circular  edifice —  Theatre  of 
Polycletus — Epidaurian  serpent — Aspect  of  the 
Coilon — Perfect  state  of  the  structure — dim  en- 
sums  and  detail  of  the  parts — Journey  to  Nau- 
plia — Lessa — Dorian  and  Egyptian  antiquities 
— •  Arachnaeus  Mons — Cyclopea  —  Nauplia — 
Mouse  of  the  Consul — Turkish  Gazette — Pub- 
Be  rejoicings — Athletae— Pyrrhica — Population 
— Air —  Commerce  —  Gipsies  —  Characteristic 
features  of  Grecian  cities — Tiryns — Celtic  and 
"Phoenician  architecture — Origin  of  the  Cyclo- 
pean style — History  of  Tiryns— character  of 
its  inhabitants. 

On  Thursday  y  November  the  fifth,  we  left  Athens  c"*,p" 
at  sun- rise,  for  the  Pirceeus ;  having  resolved  to 


Departure 

sail  to  Epidaurus ;  and  after  visiting  Epidauria from 

Athens  for 

and  Argolis,  to  return  through  the  northern  the  p«/o- 
districts  of  Peloponnesus,  towards  Megara 
and  Eleusis.  The  Governor  of  Athens  had  kindly 
commissioned  a  relation  of  his  family,  a  mo3t 
amiable  and  worthy  Turk,  to  accompany  us  in 
the  capacity  of  Tchohadar ;  a  word  which  we  shall 
not  attempt  to  translate  :  it  is  enough  to  say  that 
such  was  his  title,  and  that  he  travelled  with  us 
as  an  officer  who  was  to  provide  for  us,  upon  all 
occasions,  and  to  be  responsible  for  our  safety 
among  the  Albanians.  Our  caique  had  remained 
at  anchor  since  our  arrival:  the  men  belonging  to 
her  had  been  daily  employed  in  repairing  the 


376  DEPARTURE    FROM    ATHENS. 

CvifP*   8a^s  an<*  r*£S*n£#     L%merx  offered  to  accompany 
v-^v^'  us  as  far  as  JEgxna ;  having  long  wished  for  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  that  island.   Although  rich 
in   valuable   antiquities,  it  had  been  strangely 
overlooked  by  almost  every  traveller,  excepting 
Chandler.     As  he  expected  ample  employment 
nary  Ta- "  for  his   pencil,    he  was  desirous  of  being  also 
Caimuck   attended    by   one   of    the    most    extraordinary 
characters   that   has   been  added  to  the  list  of 
celebrated   artists  since  the   days    of   Phidias. 
This  person  was  by  birth  a  Caimuck,  of  the  name 
of  Theodore :  he  had  distinguished  himself  among 
the  painters  at  Rome,  and  had  been  brought  to 
Athens  to  join  the  band  of  artists  employed  by 
our  Ambassador,  over  which  Lusieri  presided. 
With   the   most   decided   physiognomy   of   the 
wildest  of  his  native  tribes,  although  as  much 
humanized  in  his  appearance  as  it  was  possible 
to  make  him  by  the  aid  of  European  dress  and 
habits,   he  still   retained   some  of  the  original 
characteristics  of  his  countrymen  ;  and,  among 
others,  a  true  Scythian  relish  for  spirituous  liquor. 
By    the    judicious    administration    of    brandy, 
Lusieri  could  elicit  from  him,  for  the  use  of  his 
patron,   specimens  of    his   art,   combining   the 
most  astonishing  genius  with  the  strictest  accu- 
racy and  the  most  exquisite  taste.      Theodore 
presented  a  marvellous  example  of  the  force  of 


\ 


DEPARTURE    FROM    ATHENS.  377 

natural  genius  unsubdued  by  the  most  powerful  chap. 
obstacles.  Educated  in  slavery ;  trained  to  the 
business  of  his  profession  beneath  the  active 
cudgels  of  his  Russian  masters  ;  having  also 
imbibed  with  his  earliest  impressions  the  servile 
propensities  and  sensual  appetites  of  the  tyrants 
he  had  been  taught  to  revere ;  this  extraordinary 
man  arrived  in  Athens  like  another  JSupkranor, 
rivalling  all  that  the  Fine  Arts  had  produced 
under  circumstances  the  most  favourable  to 
their  birth  and  maturity.  The  talents  of  Theodore, 
as  a  painter,  were  not  confined,  as  commonly  is 
the  case  among  Russian  artists,  to  mere  works  of 
imitation  :  although  he  could  copy  every  thing, 
he  could  invent  also :  and  his  mind  partook 
largely  of  the  superior  powers  of  original  genius. 
With  the  most  surprising  ability,  he  restored 
and  inserted  into  his  drawings  all  the  sculpture 
of  which  parts  only  remained  in  the  mutilated 
bas-reliefs  and  buildings  of  the  Acropolis.  Be- 
sides this,  he  delineated,  in  a  style  of  superior 
excellence,  the  same  sculptures  according  to  the 
precise  state  of  decay  in  which  they  at  present 
exist1. 


(1)  See  Memorandum  on  tbe   Earl  of  Elgin's  PureoiU  in  Greece, 
p.  6.    LomeUXSU. 


378  THE   PIRJEEUS. 

chap.        There  are  many  Ruins  about  the  three  ports, 

VII. 

s*r>r%0  Munychia,  Phalerum,  and  the  Piraeus ;  and  we 
may  look  to  future  excavations  in  their  vicinity 
as  likely  to  bring  to  light  many  valuable  anti- 
Further     quities.     The  remains  of  the  long  walls  which 
oMheDt    j°ined  the  Piraeus  to  Athens,  (making  of  it  a 
£e^!*No  bu'y?1  similar  to  what  Leith  is  with   respect  to 
walls."    Edinburgh1 ,)  although  very  indistinct,  yet  may 
be  traced  sufficiently  to  ascertain  the  space  they 
formerly  included.     These  walls  appear  to  have 
had  different  names  (distinguishing  them  from 
the  town  walls  of  Piraeus)  among  the   Greeks 
and  Romans.     By  the  former  they  were  termed 
either  Maicpa  rd\^  the  Long  walls,    or  Maicpct 
<ridX?i,    literally   answering  to  a    nick-name  be- 
stowed upon  one  of  our  kings  of  England,  who 
was  called  Long-shanks.     We  find  them  alluded 
to,  under  this  appellation,  by  Diodorus  Siculus;  as 
a  term  whereby  they  are  distinguished  from  the 
Pirceean  walls2.     The  Romans  adopted  a  different 
appellation  :    by   them  the  €i  long-shanks"  were 


\ 


(1)  Edinburgh  exhibits  a  very  correct  model  of  a  Grecian  city :  and 
with  its  Acropolis,  Town,  and  Harbour,  it  bears  some  resemblance  t° 
Athens  and  the  Piraeus. 

(2)  ZvviOtvro  rtfv  tlorivnv,  &trrt  TA  MAKPA  IKE  AH,  mat  TA 
TEIXH  TOY  DEIPAIEQE,  iripuXiiv.  Mod.  Sic.  lib.  xiii.  ap.  Meurt. 
Pir.  Vid.  Gronov.  Thesaur.  Gr.  torn.  V.  p.  1932.    L.  B«M699. 


THE   PIRAEUS. 


379 


called  the  " arms"  or  " long  arms."  They  are  c *f* ■ 
thus  mentioned  by  Lwy%  and  by  Propertius*. 
A  corrupt  mode  of  writing  the  word  Piraeus 
seems  to  have  been  adopted  by  some  authors, 
who  express  UupauvQ  by  Piraus.  Meursius, 
upon  the  testimony  of  all  the  early  Greek  autho- 
rities, is  decisive  for  the  former  reading0.  In 
his  admirable  treatise  upon  this  harbour  and  its 
antiquities,  he  has  concentrated  with  wonderful 
erudition  every  thing  that  the  Antients  have  left 
concerning  its  history.  In  its  original  state  it 
had  been  an  island,  whence  it  received  its 
name6,  like  many  later  towns7,  from  its  ferry6. 


(9)  "  Inter  angtistias  semiruti  muri,  qui  doobns  braehiit  Pirneam 
Athenlf  jongit."    LUrtus,  lib.  xxxv.  ap.  Meurs.  Pir.ut  supra. 

(4)  "  lode  ubi  Pirni  capient  me  littora  portm, 

S  candam  ego  These®  bracMa  longa  Tin." 

Propertiw,  lib.  Hi.  Eleg.  90.  ftp.  Meurs.  ut  supra- 

(5)  Meurm  Piraeus,  passim.  8fc  Suidas,  Stephanus,  Besychiut, 
he.  Ac. 

(0)  T6w  ti  Tltipalaf  vtjeidZovra  xportpov,  *ai  tripav  rijc  'Arrfjc  ccl- 
ptvor,  ofra*c  faciv  6vopae$TJvai.  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  i.  p.  86.  Oxon* 
1807. 

(7)  Trajeetum  ad  Mosam,  Maeatricht  in  Brabant ;  Trajeetum  ad 
Mkenum,  Utrecht ;  Trajeetum  ad  Mamum,  Franefort  upon  the  aforoe; 
Trajeetum  ad  Oderam,  Franefort  upon  the  Oder. 

(S)  "Hw  wp6rtpov  o  Uupautig  vrjeoc  Wtv  *al  rovwoua  ilXqfiw,  vtrb 
ripr  liawtpav.  "  Primitua  insula  erat  Pireeua :  nnde  et  nomen  accepit, 
atrajeetu."    Suidas. 


380  THE   PIRAEUS. 

chap.  Travellers  have  pretended  to  recognize  the  tomb 
n-^v-^-  of  Themi&tocles.     A  square  stone  resting  on  a 
n»iifto-  s*mple  base,  an(*  destitute  of  any  ornament,  was 
de*.         an  that  denoted  the  place  of  his  interment.     It 
was  near  to  the    principal    harbour1,    of  course 
that  of  Piraeus*,  containing  three  smaller  ports, 
as  docks' :  for  the  port  of  Phalerum,  within  the 
road  of  that  name,  was  very  small4.     Its  situa- 
tion seems  to    be   so   clearly  designated   by  a 
passage  in   Plutarch,  at  the  end  of  his  life  of 


(1)  Koi  wpbe    rtf  p*yi<jry   Xtpivtrd+OQ  6i/u*rocXiowf. 
Attic.  JH0.     Lips.  1096. 

(8)  "  Piraeus,  qui  et  ipse,  magnitndine,  ac  commoditate,  prims*." 
Meurs.  Pvr.  ap.  Gronov.  Thesaur.  Gr.  torn.  V.  p.  1931.  L.  Bat.  1600. 

(3)  It  contained  three  op/sot,  or  docks  ;  the  first  called  KavBapoc.,  from 
a  hero  of  that  name;  the  second  'AfpoAtVioy,  from  'Afpodlrn,  or  Venus, 
who  had  there  two  temples ;  the  third  Zia,  from  bread  com,  which 
was  called  by  the  Grecians  frta.  (Potter's  Arch.  voL  I.  p.  43.  Land. 
1751.)  Scylax  mentions  its  three  ports  :  'O  &  Ilfipatcec  Xtpivac.  l%u 
rpclc.    (Scylacis  Caryandensis  Periplus,  p.  47.     L.  Bat.  1097. 

"  On  the  twenty-fourth  of  June  we  anchored  in  the  convenient 
little  harbour  of  the  Pirjbbus;  where  the  chief  objects  that  call  for 
one's  attention  are,  the  remains  of  the  solid  fortifications  of  Them*- 
stocles ;  the  remains  of  the  moles  forming  the  smaller  ports  within  tat 
Pirjbbus;  two  monuments  on  the  sea-shore;  and  palpable  vestiges  of 
the  long  walls  which  connected  the  harbour  with  Athens,  a  distance  of 
about  4  miles  and  a  half."    Colonel  Squire's  MS.  Correspondence. 

(4)  "Cum  Phalero  porta,  neque  magna,  neque  bono,  Athenians*! 
uterentur,  hujus  consilio  triplex  Piraeei  portns  constitatns  est" 
Cornelius  Nepos  in  Themistocle,  ap.  Gronov.  Thesaur.  Gr.  torn.  V.  p. 
1934.    L.  Bat.  1699. 


THE    PIRJEBCS.  381 

TkemuioclaP,  that  it  would  seem  almost  impos-   chap. 
rible  to  mistake  the  spot.      It  was  situate  at  ^^, 
the  promontory   of  Alcimus,    where  the  land,  sitaatioa 
making  an  elbow,  sheltered  a  part  of  the  bar-  £Hb<* 
hour ;  here,  above  the  still  water,  might  be  seen 
the  tomb.     The  base,  although  simple,  as  stated 
by  PamsamaSj  is  by  Plutarch  said  to  have  been 
of  no  inconsiderable  magnitude6;  and  the  tomb 
itself,  that  is  to  say,  the    Soros,  resembled  an 
altar  placed  thereon.     Guided  by  this  clue,  we 
felt  almost  a  conviction  that  we  had  discovered 
all  that  now  remains  of  this  monument.     The 
promontory  alluded  to  by  Plutarch  constitutes 
the  southern  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  harbour7  : 
jutting  out  from   the    Phrcsean  or    Munychian 
peninsula,  it  forms,  with  the  opposite  promontory 
of  Eetion,  the  natural  mouth  of  the  port,  lying 
towards   the  west,   that  is  to  say,  beyond   the 
artificial  piers  whereby  it  was  inwardly  closed8. 


(5)  Dipt  rrjy  \ipkva  too  II<tpai«*£,  axb  rov  cord  r>)v  'AXcipov 
a'cp+rrnpiov,  wpbcurai  tic  olov  dycwy.  tax  ra/i^avri  rovrov  Jvrdc,  9  rb 
wiro&iunr  rift  0aX£rrij£,  rpijrtf  l<rriv  tvptyiOric,  rat  rb  trtpi  avrt)v 
P*fiott&kc,  rafoc  tov  Of/itorocXfovc-  Plutarch,  in  extremo  Themist. 
ton.  I.  Land.  1739. 

(6)  Etf/icyiOijc. 

(7)  Voy.  Bartkel.  '*  Plan  des  Environs  (C  Athenes,  pour  le  Voyage 
dm  Jeune  Anacharsu."    Trobieme  edit,    a  Parti,  1790. 

(8)MUt  Don  tantam  arte  tatas,  Bed  natur&etiam  ewer."  Me%trtii 
Pirmeus,  ap.  Oronov.  Then.  Qr.  torn.  V.  p.  1935      L.  Bat.  1699. 


382  VOYAGE   TO    iEGlNA. 

chap.  Here  we  landed  ;  and  found  precisely  the  sort  of 
v— v-^   base  alluded  to  by  the  historian ;  partly  cut  in 
ofThini    ^e  natural  rock,  and   partly  an  artificial  state- 
ment!"     ture  >  *°  ^at   a  Per8on  ascended  to  the  Soros, 
as  by  steps,   from  the   shore   of  the  sea.     Our 
position  of  the  tomb  may  be  liable  to  dispute : 
the  Reader,  having  the  facts  stated,  will  deter- 
mine for  himself.     Of  the  Soros,  not  a  trace  is 
now  remaining. 

Objects         As  we  sailed  from  the  Piraeus,  we  soon  per- 

paMriogtbe  ceived  the  Acropolis  of  Corinth,  and,  behind  it, 

Qui  ph.      ijjgrij  mountains  which  were  much  covered  by 

clouds,  although  the  day  was  remarkably  fine. 

We  lost  some  time  in  the  harbour,  and  were 

afterwards   detained    by   calms.      About    three 

o'clock,  p.  m.  we  passed  a   small  island,  called 

Beibina.    Beibina  by  D' 'Anville1.     About  an  hour  before, 

we    had    observed    the    thermometer,    in    the 

middle  of  the  gulph  :  the  mercury  then  stood  at 

68°  of   Fahrenheit.     A  mountain   of  very  great 

elevation  was  now   visible  behind  the  lofty  rock 

of  the  Corinthian  Citadel,  and  at  a  great  distance. 


(I)  Its  modern  name  is  Lavousa,  according  to  D'Ancil&s  Chart  of 
the  Archipelago.  Chandler  rnneidert  the  Island  of  Beibina  an  lying 
towards  the  mouth  of  the  Gulph.  bte  Travels  in  Greece,  p.  1 1.  0^f% 
1776. 


VOYAGE   TO    JEGINA.  383 

Lusieri  insisted  upon  its  being  Parnassus  ;  and  chap. 
Theodore  was  of  the  same  opinion.  Judging  t  vli' 
from  our  position,  it  could  not  have  been  one  of 
the  mountains  of  Peloponnesus ;  and  therefore, 
supposing  it  to  have  been  situate  either  in 
JEtolxa  or  Pkocis,  the  circumstance  alone  is 
sufficient  to  shew  how  little  agreement  our  best 
maps  have  with  actual  observations,  as  to 
the  relative  position  of  places  in  Greece. 
De  JL'lsle*  is,  perhaps,  in  this  respect,  more 
disposed  to  confirm  what  is  here  written,  than 
jyAnville :  yet  in  neither  of  their  maps  of  the 
country  would  a  line  drawn  from  the  island  we 
have  mentioned,  through  the  Acro-Corinthus, 
reach  the  mountainous  territories  to  the  north  of 
the  Gulph  of  Corinth.  Such  a  line,  traced  upon 
jyAnville' s  Map  of  Greece?,  would  traverse  the 
Sinus  Corinthiacus,  far  to  the  south  of  all  Phocis 
and  the  land  of  the  Locri  Ozolce ;  and  would  only 
enter  JEtolia  near  the  mouths  of  the  JSvenus  and 
Archeloiis  rivers.  D'Anville's  Chart  of  the 
Archipelago4  is  liable  to  the  same  remarks ;  we 
dare  not  call  them  objections,  until  they  have 


(8)  Grcecice  An tiqius  Tabula  No vb.   Par i jr,  OrM 707. 

(3)  Published  at  Parii  in  1762. 

(4)  Dated,  Pans,  Oct.  1756. 


nius.  Jvpiter  fanhellenius ;  its  numerous uorx 
standing  in  a  most  conspicuous  situal 
the  mountain  Panhellenius,  high  above  1 
eastern  shore  of  the  island,  and  risin 
trees,  as  if  surrounded  by  woods.  Tl 
most  antient  and  the  most  remarka 
of  all  the  temples  in  Greece:  the  ii 
of  JEgina,  in  a  very  remote  age,  maint? 
it  was  built  by  jEacus.  Chandler  I 
so  copious  a  description  of  JEgina,  ai 
temple,  that  to  begin  the  examihati< 
island  again,  without  being  able  to  r 
excavations,  we  considered  as  like] 
attended  with  little  addition  to  our  st< 
formation  ;  and  almost  as  an  encroachr 
ground  already  well   occupied       We 


(I)  The  author  having  since  consulted  bis  friend.  Mr.  J 


iCGINA.  385 

resolved  to  continue  our  voyage  as  soon  as  we    chap. 
had  landed  Lusieri  and  the  Calmucffi.     Sailing: 


round  the  north-western  point  of  the  ibland,  we  Antiqui- 
observed  a  very  large  barrow*  upon  the  shore  :  tile  Port, 
this  is  noticed  by  Chandler9  as  the  mound  of  earth 
(\ufia)  raised   by    Tehmon  after  the   death  of 
PhocvSy  as  it  was  seen  by  Pausanias  in  the  second 
century4.      Near   to    this  mound    there   was  a 


(3)  We  had  good  reason  afterwards  to  repent  of  our  folly  in  making 

this  resolution  ;  for  although  Chandler  spent  some  time  upou  the  island, 

it  has,  in  fact,  been  little  visited  by  travellers.    Lusieri  found  here 

both  medals  and  vases  in  such  great  number,  that  he  was  under  the 

necessity  of  dismissing  the  peasants  who  bad  amassed  them,  without 

purchasing  more  than  half  that  were  brought  to  him ;  although  they 

were  offered  for  a  very   trifling  consideration.    The  medals  and  the 

faitf  which    he  collected  were  of  very  high   antiquity.    The  medals 

were  either  in  silver  or  lead;  and  of  that  rude  globular  form,  with  the 

talotst  on  one  side,  and  a  mere  indentation  on  the  other,  which  is  well 

known  to  characterize  the  earliest  Grecian  coinage  :  indeed,  the  art 

of  coining  money  was  first  introduced  by  the  inhabitants  of  this  island. 

Of  the  terra-cotta  vases  which  be  collected,  we  afterwards  saw  several 

k  hit  possession :  they  were  small,  but  of  the  most  beautiful  work- 

m*B*hjp;  and  as  a  proof  of  their  great  autiquity,  it  is  necessary  only 

*°  mention  that  the  subjects   represented  upon  them  were  historical, 

*°d  tie   paintings  monochromatic;    black,  upon  a  red  ground.     We 

***e  since  recommended  it  to  persons  visiting  Greece,  to  be  diligent 

*  *h«ir  researches  upon  JSgina;  and  many  valuable  antiquities  have 

^H  consequently  discovered  upon  the  island. 

&>  Travels  in  Greece,  p.  1 5.     Onford,  1776. 

(^)0&r«*£ic  rbv  Kovirrbv  KaXovptvov  kipkva  ioirXivoac.  vvktuq ^ 

*°*Ct  X"/*a  *«*  rovro  pkv  IZtpyaoQev,  nai  ic.  tymc  In  fikvu.  (Pausati. 

^^mth.c.  29.  p.  180.  Lips.  1696.)  In  a  preceding  passage  of  the  same 

chapter. 

Vol.  vi.  c  c 


386  M  G  I  N  A, 

c**Ap-    theatre,  next  in  size  and  workmanship  to  that  of 
Hieron  in  JEpidauria,  built  by  Polycletus:  and  it 
had  this  remarkable   feature,  that  it  was  con- 
structed upon  the  sloping  side  of  a  stadium  which 
was  placed  behind  it ;  so  that  the  two  structures 
mutually   sustained   each  other1.      Afterwards, 
entering  the  harbour,  we  landed  to  view  the  two 
Doric  pillars  yet  standing  by  the  sea  side  :  these 
may  be   the   remains   of  the  Temple  of  Venus, 
which    stood    near  the    port    principally    fre- 
quented2 :  and  JEgina,  even  for  small  vessels,  is 
elsewhere  difficult  of  access,  owing  to  its  high 
cliffs  and  latent  rocks*.     We  saw  none  of  the 
inhabitants;  but  sent  the  Tchohadar  in  search, 
of  a  pilot  to  conduct  our  caique  into  the  port  o 
JEpidauria.     He  returned  with  a  man  who  pre- 
tended  to  have   a   perfect    knowledge    of    th 
coast,  and   we  took  him  on  board,  leaving  th 


chapter,  it  is  stated,  tbattbe  tomb (r&f  oc)  of  Phocus,  which  is  also  nlWnl 
%&pa,  was  near  to  the  JEacbuk  :  Uapd  8k  rb  Aldicuov,  Q&kov  r&p**C 
X&paterl,  k.  r.  X.  The  JEartum  was  a  tetragonal  peribolus  of  white 
marble,  in  a  conspicuous  part  of  the  city :  'Ev  itn^avkararo  8k  rnc 
ir6\i<M>c,  rb  Ai&Kitov  koXov/aivov,  irtpifioXoc  rcrptiywyoc  Xivkov  \i$ov. 

(1 )  Vid.  Patuan.  Corinth,  e.  29.  p.  180.    Zips.  1606. 

(2)  IlXiytriov   8k    rov  Xtfilvoc,   Iv  tf  p&kiora    op/iig»yrai,    NAOS 
ESTIN  A*POAITHS.     Pautan.  Corinth,  c.  29.  p.  170.    Lips.  1696. 

(3)  TlpooirXivoat  8k  AITINA  ion  vriowrSv'RWnvUuv  diropmrar^. 
irirpai  rt  yap  ofaXot  wtpi  iraoav,  cat  %oip6.8iQ  avtorrjicaot.  Pav*s** 
Corinth,  c.  29.  p.  178.     Lips.  1696. 


ISLAND   OF    ANCHESTRI. 


387 


two  artists,  both  of  whom   were  already  busied   Cy^p* 
in  drawing.  u-v~' 

As  we  drew  near  to  Peloponnesus,  the 
mountains  of  Argolis  began  to  appear  in  great 
grandeur.  We  passed  along  the  northern  shore 
of  an  island,  called,  by  our  mariners,  Anchestri :  Amhatri 
it  was  covered  with  trees4.  As  the  evening 
drew  on,  we  discovered  that  our  stupid  pilot,  ignorance 
notwithstanding  all  his  boasting,  knew  no  more  pilot, 
of  the  coast  than  the  Casvot  sailors.  As  soon  as 
fogs  or  darkness  begin  to  obscure  the  land,  the 
Oreek  pilots  remain  in  total  ignorance  of  their 
situation  :  generally,  losing  their  presence  of 
roind,  they  either  run  their  ships  ashore,  or 
abandon  the  helm  altogether,  and  have  recourse 
40  the  picture  of  some  Saint,  supplicating  his 
miraculous  interference  for  their  safety.  It 
more  than  once  happened  to  us,  to  have  the 
re8ponsibility  of  guiding  the  vessel,  without 
Mariner's  compass,  chart,  or  the  slightest 
knowledge  of  naval  affairs.     It  may  be  supposed 


(4)  The  name  of  this  island  is  written  Angistri  by  D'Anville;  and 
•J  Sir  W.  Qell,  in  his  valuable  Map  of  Argolis  :  (See  Itin.  of  Greece, 
****  Xxtiii  by  W.  Gell.Esq.M.A.  Member  of  the  Society  of  Dilettanti. 
***d.\B\0.)  Chandler  wrote  it  nearly  as  we  have  done,  Anchistre  : 
CWfct  Greece,  p.  200.  Oxf.  1776.)  he  says  it  contained"  a  few 
"HUgesof  Albanian,:' 

C    C    2 


388  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  that,  under  such  circumstances,  an  infant  would 

VII. 

have  been  found  equally  fit  for  the  undertaking. 
This  was  pretty  much  the  case  upon  the  present 
occasion:   we  were  close  in   with  a   lee-shore: 
fortunately,     the    weather    was    almost    calm; 
and  our   interpreter  Antonio,  by  much  the  best 
seaman  of  a  bad  crew,  had  stationed  himself  in 
the  prow  of  the  caique,  and  continued  soundings 
as  we  drew  nigh  to  the  land.     Presently,  bein 
close    in    with    the    shore,    we    discerned    th 
mouth  of  a  small  cove ;  into  which,  by  lowerin 
our  sails,  and  taking  to  the  oars,  we  brought* 
the  vessel ;  and,  heaving  out  the  anchor,  deter- 
mined to  wait  here  until  the  next  morning. 

When  day-light  appeared,  we  found  ourselr  «s 
in    a    wild    and   desert   place,    without   sign     of 
habitation,  or  any  trace  of  a  living  being:  higfh 
above  us    were   rocks,  and    among  these  flou- 
rished many  luxuriant  evergreens.     We  did  not 
remain  to  make  further  examination  of  this  part 
of  the    coast ;    but  got   the    anchor    up,   andf 
standing    out  to    sea,  bore   away    towards  the 
south-west.     We  had  not  a  drop  of  fresh  water 
on  board,  but  drank  wine   as  a  substitute,  and 
ate  some    cold    meat    for    our    breakfast, — the 
worst    beverage  and  the  worst  food  a  traveller 
can    use,     who    wishes,     in    this    climate,    to 


B  P  I  A  D  A.  389 

prepare   himself  for  the   fatigue   he  must  en-   chap. 

counter.     Our  pilot,  being  also  refreshed  with 

the  juice  of  the  grape,  affected   once  more  to 

recognise  every  point  of  land,   and  desired  to 

know   what  port  we  wished  to  enter.      Being 

told  that  we  were  looking  out  for  the  harbour  of 

JSpidaurus,  or,   as  it  is  now  called,  niAAYPO, 

He  promised  to  take   the   vessel   safely   in.     It 

Was   at    this    time    broad    day-light,    and    we 

thought  we  might  venture  under  his  guidance  ; 

Accordingly,    we   were  conducted  into  a  small 

port  neatly   opposite  to   Anchestri.      Here   we 

landed,    at    ten    o'clock    a.  m.    and    sent   the 

Xchohadar  to  a  small  town,  which  the  pilot  said 

Was  near  to  the   port,    to   order   horses.      We 

Were   surprised    in  finding  but  few  ruins   near 

the  shore ;  nor   was   there   any   appearance   to 

confirm  what  he  had  said  of  its  being  Pidauro : 

Vre  saw,  indeed,  the  remains  of   an  old   wall, 

and   a   marsh    filled   with    reeds   and   stagnant 

^ater,  seeming  to  indicate  the  former  existence 

of  a  small  inner  harbour  for  boats  that  had  fallen 

to  decay.     The  air  of  this  place  was  evidently 

unwholesome,  and   we  were  impatient  to  leave 

the  spot.     When  the   Tchohadar  returned  with 

the   horses,    he    began     to     cudgel    the    pilot ; 

having  discovered   that  Pidauro   was  farther  to 

the  south-west ;  this  port  being  called  EIIIAAA, 


390  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  pronounced  Epi-atha,  the  A  sounding  like  our 
v^v-^  th,  harsh,  as  in  thee  and  thou.  It  is  laid  down 
in  some  Italian  maps  under  the  name  of  Piada. 
The  pilot  now  confessed  that  he  had  never 
heard  of  such  a  port  as  Pidauro  in  his  life.  As 
it  would  have  been  a  vain  undertaking  to 
navigate  any  longer  under  such  auspices,  we 
came  to  the  resolution  of  dismissing  our  caique 
altogether.  We  therefore  sent  back  the  pilot  t 
JEgvna ;  ordering  the  good  Captain  to  wai 
there  with  his  vessel  for  the  return  of 
and  the  Calmuck  ;  and  promising  him,  if  he  con 
veyed  them  in  safety  to  the  Piraeus,  to  giv 
him,  in  addition  to  his  stipulated  hire,  a  silv 
coffee-cup,  to  be  made  by  an  Athenian  silv 
smith,  and  to  be  inscribed  with  his  nam 
as  a  token  of  our  acknowledgments  for  the 
many  services  he  had  done  for  us.  The  poor 
man  seemed  to  think  this  cup  of  much  more 
importance  than  any  payment  we  had  before 
agreed  to  make ;  and  we  left  him,  to  commence 
our  tour  in  the  Peloponnesus. 

The  road  from  the  port  to  the  town  of 
Epiada  extends  through  olive-plantations  and 
vineyards.  The  town  itself  is  situate  upon  a 
lofty  ridge  of  rocks,  and  was  formerly  pro 
tected   by   an   old  castle,   still  remaining.    I 


£  PI  A  DA.  391 

sequence  of  our  inquiry  after  antient  medals,  chap. 
3ral  Venetian  coins  were  offered  to  us ;  and  w»v*^/ 
number  of  them  found  here  may  serve  to 
lain  the  origin  of  the  castle,  which  was 
bably  built  by  the  Venetians.  But  besides 
te  coins,  the  author  purchased  here,  for 
atv  piastres,   a   most  beautiful   silver  tetra-  Greek 

J    r  Medals. 

chtn  of  Alexander  the  Great,  as  finely  pre- 
yed as  if  it  had  just  issued  from  the  mint ; 
2th er  with  some  copper  coins  of  Megara. 
\  Greek  silver  medals,  as  it  is  well  known, 
often  covered  with  a  dark  surface,  in  some 
ances  quite  black,  resembling  black  varnish : 
nature  of  this  investment,  perhaps,  has  not 
11  duly  examined  :  it  has  been  sometimes 
sidered  as  a  sulphur et ;  but  the  colour  which 
>hur  gives  to  silver  is  of  a  more  dingy 
ire,  inclining  to  grey  :  the  black  varnish  is  a 
iat  of  silver1.  It  may  be  decomposed  by 
ling    the   medals  in   a  boiling   solution    of 


It  once  happened  to  the  author  to  open  a  small  case  of  Greek 
medals  that  had  been  sank  in  sea- water.  The  medals  had  been 
itely  enveloped  in  brown  paper,  which  was  now  become  dry.  To 
reat  surprise,  he  found  every  one  of  them  covered  with  a  fine 
pable  powder,  as  white  as  snow.  Placing  them  in  a  window, 
stion  of  the  sun's  rays  turned  this  powder  to  a  dark  colour  :  when 
ih  was  used  to  remove  it,  the  silver  became  covered  with  a  black 
ig  varnish,  exactly  similar  to  that  which  covers  the  antient 
coinage  of  Greece  ;  and  this  proved  to  be  a  muriat  of  silver. 


395  PELOPONNESU9.  # 

chap,  potass ;  but  antiquaries  in  general  do  not  chooe 
to  have  the  dark  varnish  removed.  All  Grtk 
silver  coins  are  not  thus  discoloured  :  man 
of  them  retain,  in  the  highest  perfection,  tt 
natural  colour  and  lustre  of  the  metal :  tho* 
only  exhibit  the  appearance  of  a  black  crust  < 
varnish  which  have  been  exposed  to  the  actic 
of  muriatic  acid,  either  by  immersion  in  « 
water,  or  by  coming  into  contact  with  it  durii 
the  time  that  they  have  remained  buried  i 
the  earth.  As  it  had  been  our  original  intei 
tion  to  land  at  JEpidaurus,  to  examine  the  r 
mains  of  that  city,  so  we  determined  now  to  { 
first  to  that  port:  but  the  people  of  JEpidi 
told  us  that  there  were  scarcely  any  vestig 
even  of  ruins  there  ;  that  all  the  antiquities  v 
should  find  consisted  of  a  headless  marb 
statue  (answering  to  the  description  given  1 
Chandler9)  ;  and  that  the  remains  of  the  Temp 
of  JEsculapius,  whom  they  called  'AcricAaireo 
were  near  to  Ligurid.  "  There,"  said  one 
the  inhabitants,  "are  the  Ruins  of  his  Templi 
but  the  seat  of  his  government  and  his  p 
lace   were   at   Epidaurus  (Pidauro),   althoug 


(1)  Travels  in  Greece,  p.  221.     Oxford,  177C.     Chandler  call* 
'*  a  maimed  statue  of  bad  workmausliip." 


EPIADA. 


393 


nothing  now   remains  excepting  a  few  broken  c^p* 
pieces  of  marble/'     The  person   who  gave  us  *-*v^ 
this   information    seemed   to    be    possessed    of 
more  intelligence  than  it  is  usual  to  find  among 
the  Greeks :  we  therefore  profited  by  his  instruc- 
tions, and  set  out  for  Ligurid. 

The  temperature  on  shore,  this  day  at  noon, 
was  the  same  as  it  had  been  upon  the  preceding 
day  in  the  middle  of  the  gulph  ;  that  is  to  say, 
68Q  of  Fahrenheit  It  was  four  o'clock  p.  m. 
before  we  left  Epidda.  We  noticed  here  a  very 
remarkable  mineral  of  a  jet  black  colour,  which 
at  first  sight  seemed  to  be  coal,  but,  upon  further 
examination,  it  rather  resembled  asphaltum.  It 
was  very  soft ;  and,  in  places  where  water  had 
passed  over  it,  the  surface  was  polished.  The 
specimens  being  lost,  this  is  all  the  description 
of  it  we  can  now  give.  Our  journey  from 
Epidda  towards  the  interior  of  Epidauria  led  us 
over  mountains,  and  through  the  most  delightful 
vaUeys  imaginable.  In  those  valleys  we  found 
the  Arbutus  Andrachne,  with  some  other  species  ^jJJS^ 
°f  the  same  genus  flourishing  in  the  greatest 
e*uberance,  covered  with  flowers  and  fruit. 
The  fruit,  in  every  thing  but  flavour  and  smell, 
resembled    large    hautbois    strawberries  :     the 


394  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  berries  were  cooling  and  delicious,  and  every 
v^v-w  one  of  our  party  ate  of  them1.  This  shrub  is 
found  all  over  the  Mediterranean :  it  attains  to 
great  perfection  in  Minorca;  and  from  thence 
eastward  as  far  as  the  coast  of  Syria,  it  may  be 
found  adorning  limestone  rocks  otherwise  barren, 
being  never  destitute  of  its  dark-green  foliage, 
and  assuming  its  most  glorious  appearance 
at  a  season  when  other  plants  have  lost  their 
beauty.  The  fruit  is  one  entire  year  in  coming 
to  maturity ;  and  when  ripe,  it  appears  in  the 
midst  of  its  beautiful  flowers.  The  inhabitants 
of  Argolis  call  this  plant  Cukoomari :  in  other 
parts  of  Turkey,  particularly  at  Constantinople,  it 
is  called  Koomaria,  which  is  very  near  to  its 
Greek  name,  Ko/iapoc.  It  is  the  'AvSpa\v^  of 
Theophrastus. 

Appear-        \\re  passed  an  antient  edifice  :    it  was  noar 

ance  of  toe  r 

country.  t0  a  windmill,  in  a  valley  towards  the  right  of 
our  road,  and  at  some  distance  from  us. 
Nothing  could  exceed  the  grandeur  of  the 
scenery  during  the  rest  of  our  ride  to  Ligurid. 
On    every    side  of   us   we   beheld   mountains, 


( 1 )  "  Arbuteot  foetus,  montanaque  fraga  legebaou' 


ARGOLIS,  395 

reaching  to  the  clouds ;  although  we  rode  chap. 
continually  through  delicious  valleys,  covered 
by  cultivated  fields,  or  filled  with  myrtles, 
flowering  shrubs,  and  trees.  Every  fertile  spot 
seemed  to  be  secluded  from  all  the  rest  of  the 
world,  and  to  be  protected  from  storms  by 
the  lofty  summits  with  which  it  was  surrounded. 
A  white  dress,  worn  by  the  peasants,  reminded 
us  of  the  garments  often  seen  upon  antient 
statues ;  and  it  gave  to  these  delightful  retreats 
a  costume  of  the  greatest  simplicity,  with  the 
most  striking  effect.  Lusieri  had  spoken  in 
rapturous  terms  of  the  country  he  had  beheld  in 
Arcadia :  but  the  fields,  and  the  groves,  aud  the 
mountains,  and  the  vales  of  Argolis,  surpassed  all 
that  we  had  imagined,  even  from  his  description  of 
the  finest  parts  of  the  Peloponnesus.  To  render 
the  effect  of  the  landscape  still  more  impressive, 
shepherds,  upon  distant  hills,  began  to  play, 
as  it  were  an  evening-service,  upon  their  reed 
pipes ;  seeming  to  realize  the  ages  of  poetic 
fiction ;  and  filling  the  mind  with  dreams  of 
innocence,  which,  if  it  dwell  anywhere  on 
earth,  may  perhaps  be  found  in  these  retreats, 
apart  from  the  haunts  of  the  disturber,  whose 
"whereabout"  is  in  cities  and  courts,  amidst 
wealth  and  ambition  and  power.  All  that 
seems  to  be  dreaded  in   these  pastoral  retreats 


396  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  are  the  casual  and  rare  visits  of  the  Turkish 
v~s^  lords :  and,  unfortunately  for  us,  it  was  ne- 
cessary that  our  arrival  at  Ligurid  should  be 
announced  by  one  of  their  agents ;  namely, 
Ibrahim  the  Tchohadar.  Although  a  very  ex- 
cellent man  in  his  way,  he  had  been  brought 
up  under  a  notion  that  Greeks  and  Albanians 
were  a  set  of  inferior  beings,  whom  it  was 
laudable  to  chastise  upon  every  occasion,  and 
to  whom  a  word  should  never  be  uttered 
Z40Wr%dm  without  a  blow.  It  was  nearly  dark  when  we 
reached  the  town ;  if  a  long  straggling  village 
may  bear  this  appellation.  Ibrahim  rode  first, 
and  had  collected  a  few  peasants  around  him, 
whom  we  could  just  discern  by  their  white 
habits,  assembled  near  his  horse.  In  answer 
to  his  inquiries  concerning  provisions  for  the 
party,  they  replied,  in  an  humble  tone,  that 
they  had  consumed  all  the  food  in  their 
houses,  and  had  nothing  left  to  offer.  Instantly, 
the  noise  of  IbrahmCs  lash  about  their  heads 
and  shoulders  made  them  believe  he  was  the 
herald  of  a  party  of  Turks,  and  they  fled  in  all 
directions :  this  was  "  the  only  way,"  he  said, 
"  to  make  those  misbegotten  dogs  provide  any 
thing  for  our  supper."  It  was  quite  surprising 
to  see  how  such  lusty  fellows,  any  one  of 
whom    was  more   than    a   match   for   Ibrahim, 


L  I  O  U  R  I  O. 


397 


suffered    themselves   to  be    horsewhipped    and    c*?*p' 
driven  from  their  homes,  owing  to  the  dread    ^**~ 
in    which  they  hold    a   nation   of  stupid    and 
cowardly  Moslems.     We  should   not  have  seen 
another  Ligurian,  if  Antonio  had  not  intercepted 
some  of  the  fugitives,  and  pacified  their   fears, 
by  telling  them  who  the  travellers  really  were ; 
and  that  Englishmen  would  accept  of  nothing 
from  their   hands  without  an  adequate  remu- 
neration.     After   this  assurance,  several  times 
repeated,  and  a  present  being  made  to  them  of 
a    few    pardsf    we    were   conducted  to  what  is 

sv  i  t  i  Condky  op 

called  a  (Jonah,  or  inn  ;  but  in  reality  a  wretched  ion. 
hovel,  where  horses,  asses,  and  cattle  of 
every  description,  lodge  with  a  traveller  be- 
neath the  same  roof,  and  almost  upon  the 
same  floor.  A  raised  platform  about  twelve 
inches  high,  forming  a  low  stage,  at  one  ex- 
tremity of  the  building,  is  the  part  appropriated 
to  the  guests ;  cattle  occupying  the  other  part, 
which  is  generally  the  more  spacious  of  the 
two.  Want  of  sleep  makes  a  traveller  little 
fastidious  as  to  where  he  lies  down :  and  fatigue 
and  hunger  soon  annihilate  all  those  sickly 
sensibilities  which  beset  men  during  a  life  of 
indolence  and  repletion.  We  have  passed 
many  a  comfortable  hour  in  such  places :  and 
when,  instead  of  the  Condk,  we   were   invited 


398  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  to  the  cleanly  accommodation  offered  beneath 
the  still  humbler  shed  of  an  Albanian  peasant, 
the  night  was  spent  in  thankfulness  and  luxury. 

Here,  as  at  JEpidda,  the  coins  which  were 
brought  to  us,  as  antient  medals,  were  evidently 
Venetian:  some  of  them  had  this  legend, 
abmata  .  et  .  mo  re  a  •  but  without  any  date. 
The  Liguriansy  like  the  inhabitants  of  JEpidda> 
amused  us  with  traditionary  stories  of  Asclapius, 
considering  him  as  a  great  king  who  had  once 
reigned  in  Epidauria.  Immense  plants  of  the 
Cactus  Ficus  Indica  flourished  about  this  place. 
We  set  out  for  the  sacred  seat  of  JEsculapius, 
at  sun-rise.  The  Ruins  are  situate  an  hour's 
distance  from  Ligurid,  at  a  place  now  called 
Jero,  pronounced  Yiro,  which  is  evidently  a 
corruption  of  fU$hv  (sacra  cedes).  Chandler  con- 
verted this  word  J  ho  into  Gerao,  which  is 
remarkable,  considering  his  usual  accuracy. 
Our  friend  Sir  W.  Gell,  who  was  here  after  our 
visit  to  the  spot,  and  has  published  a  descrip- 
tion and  plan  of  the  Ruins1,  writes  it  lero,  as 
being  nearer  to  the  original  appellation.  Cir- 
cumstances of  a  peculiar  nature  have  conspired 


(1)  Itinerary  of  Oreeee,  p.  103.     Lond.  1810. 


l  i  o  u  r  i  o.  399 

to  render  these  Ruins  more  than  usually   inte-    chap. 

TIL 

resting.    The  remains,  such  as  they  are,  lie  as 
they  were  left  by  the  antient  votaries  of  the  god : 
no  modern  buildings,  not  even  an  Albanian  hut 
has   been  constructed   among  them,  to  confuse 
or  to  conceal  their  topography,  as  it  generally 
happens  among  the  vestiges  of  Grecian  cities: 
the  traveller  walks  at  once  into  the  midst  of  the 
consecrated  Peribolus,  and,  from  the  traces  he 
beholds,  may   picture   to   his    mind   a  correct 
representation  of  this  once  celebrated  watering- 
place — the  Cheltenham  of  Antient  Greece — as 
it  existed   when   thronged    by   the   multitudes 
who  came  hither  for  relief  or  relaxation.     Until 
within  these  few  years,  every  vestige  remained 
which  might  have  been  necessary  to  complete  a 
plan  of  the  antient  inclosure  and  the  edifices  it 
contained2.      The    Ligurians,   in    the    time  of 
Chandler,  remembered  the  removal  of  a  marble 
chair  from  the  theatre,  and  of  statues  and  inscrip- 
tions which  were  used  in  repairing  the  fortifica- 
tions of  Nauplia,  and  in  building  a  mosque  at 


CO  Sir  W.  Ghll,  from  the  remains  existing  at  the  time  of  our  visit 
t°  the  place,  afterwards  completed  a  very  useful  Plan,  as  a  Gaidc  for 
frivellers,  both  of  the  inclosure  and  its  environs :  this  was  engraved 
&r  his  "  Itinerary  of  Greece"  See  Plate  facing  p.  108  of  that  work. 
***<L  1810. 


400  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.   Argos1.     The  discovery  of  a  single  marble  chat 


VII. 


either  within  or  near  to  almost  every  one  of  ti 
Cathedra  celebrated  theatres  of  Greece,  is  a  circumstanc 

of  a  Greek 

Theatre,  that  has  not  been  sufficiently  regarded  by  tha 
who  are  desirous  to  illustrate  the  plan  of  thee 
antient  structures.  We  afterwards  found 
relic  of  this  kind  at  Chceronea,  near  to  tl 
theatre ;  whence  it  had  onlv  been  moved  to  fori 
part  of  the  furniture  of  a  Greek  chapel :  anoth< 
has  been  already  noticed  in  the  description  < 
Athens;  and  the  instances  which  have  bee 
observed  by  preceding  travellers  it  is  iinne 
cessary  now  to  enumerate.  These  chairs,  a 
they  have  been  called,  have  all  the  same  form 
consisting  each  of  one  entire  massive  block  o 
white  marble,  generally  ornamented  with  fin* 
sculpture.  Owing  to  notions  derived  eithe 
from  Roman  theatres,  or  from  the  modern  cos 
toms  of  Europe,  they  have  been  considered  a 
seats  for  the  chief  magistrates  ;  but  even  if  thi 
opinion  be  consistent  with  the  fact  of  ther 
being  one  Cathedra  only  in  each  theatre,  it  : 
contrary  to  the  accounts  given  of  the  place 
assigned  for  persons  of  distinction  in   Grecia 


(1)  See  Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  22C.    Oxf.  1770. 


L  I  O  U  R  I  O. 


401 


theatres,  who  were  supposed  to  have  sate  in  °yf^' 
the  Bouleuticon ;  that  is  to  say,  upon  the  eight 
rows  of  benches  within  the  middle  of  the 
(Ko£W)  Cavea  of  the  theatre,  between  the 
eighth  and  the  seventeenth  row8.  How  little 
beyond  the  general  form  of  a  Greek  theatre  is 
really  known,  may  be  seen  by  reference  to  a 
celebrated  work  in  our  own  language,3  written 
professedly  in  illustration  of  the  "  Antiquities  of 
Greece."  Yet  this  author,  upon  the  subject  of 
the  Aoyccov,  or  eu/Ltt'Xf),  commonly  translated 
by  the  word  pulpit,  states,  distinctly  enough, 
that  it  stood  in  the  middle  of  the  orchestra* ; 
which,  as  far  as  we  can  learn,  is  nearly  the  spot 
where  these  marble  relics  have  been  found  : 
hence  a  question  seems  to  arise,  whether  they 


(2)  This  is  the  part  of  a  Greek  Theatre  assigned  for  the  /fouXcvrtcdv 
V  QmUletiere,  (see  p.  259,  Ch.  IV.  of  thh  Volume,)  who  has  founded 
Us  observations  upon  a  careful  comparison  of  the  accounts  left 
by  the  Antients  with  the  actual  remains  of  the  theatres  themselves. 
Bat  Totter,  and.  after  him,  other  authors  who  have  written  upon 
Grecian  Antiquities,  consider  the  lowest  part  of  the  coiloh  as  the  place 
appropriated  to  the  seats  of  the  magistrates;  which  agrees  with  a 
eastern  still  retained  in  some  countries,  especially  in  Sweden.  In  the 
theatre  at  Stockholm,  the  King  and  Queen  sate,  in  two  chairs,  in  the 
pity  in  front  of  the  orchestra.  For  the  flovXivrucby,  the  Reader  is 
referred  to  Aristophanes,  and  to  Julius  Pollux,  lib.  iv.  c.  19. 

(9)  Arekmologia  Orssea,  by  John  Potter,  D.D.  Archbithop  of  Can- 
terbury. 

(4)  See  vol.  I.  p.  ««•    Lond.  1751. 

VOL.    VI.  D   D 


402  PELOPONNESUS. 

• 

chap,  were  not  intended,  each  as  a  conspicuous  place 
v#w  in  the  orchestra  of  the  theatre  to  which  it  be- 
longed, for  the  better  exhibition  of  those  per- 
formers who  contested  prizes  upon  any  musical 
instrument,  or  were  engaged  in  any  trial  of 
skill,  where  one  person  only  occupied  the 
attention  of  the  audience.  The  sculpture  upon 
one  of  them,  as  thrice  represented  in  the  third 
volume  of  Stuart's  Antiquities  of  Athens1,  seems 
to  favour  this  idea  of  their  use :  because  its 
ornaments  are  actually  those  prizes  which  were 
bestowed  upon  successful  candidates;  a  vessel 
of  the  oil  produced  by  the  olive-tree  that  grew 
in  the  Academia;  and  three  wreaths,  or  chap- 
lets,  with  which  victors  at  the  Panathencea  were 
crowned. 

CoronL  Proceeding  southward  from  Ligurid,  we  soon 

arrived  at  a  small  village  called  Coron?,  whose 


(1)  See  Stuart's  Athens,  vol.  III.  pp.  19, 29.  <'  Whether  they  hate 
been  teats  for  a  magistrate  in  a  court  of  judicature,  or  of  officer!  in  a 
Gymnasium,  to  not  easily  determined  from  their  situation."  IUL 
p.  25.    Lend.  1794. 

(2)  "  Possibly  an  antient  name  taken  from  the  Nymph  Conmis,  the 
mother  of  &sculapUts"  (CeWs  Itinerary  qf  Greece,  p.  103.  Lend. 
1810.)  It  were  to  be  wished  that  this  industrious  traveller  woaW 
complete  the  design  originally  announced  by  the  appearance  of  this 
publication,  and  extend  it  to  the  rest  of  Greece,  all  of  which  has  been 

visited 


CORONJ.  403 

inhabitants  were  shepherds.  Here  we  noticed  chap. 
s  noble  race  of  dogs,  similar  to  the  breed  found 
in  the  province  of  Abruzzo  in  Italy ;  and  it  is 
somewhat  singular  that  the  very  spot  which 
still  bears  an  appellation  derived  from  the  name 
of  the  mother  of  JEsculapius  should  be  now 
remarkable  for  the  particular  kind  of  animal 
materially  connected  with  his  history.  It  was 
a  shepherd's  dog  who  guarded  the  infant  god,  when 
exposed  upon  Mount  Tittkion*.  We  bought  a 
young  one,  for  ten  piastres,  of  great  size  and 
beauty.  It  resembled  a  wolf,  with  shining 
black  hair.  To  complete  all  the  circumstances 
of  analogy,  they  had  given  to  it  the  name  of 
Kop&u,  as  if  in  memory  of  the  KopaX  which 
Apollo  set  to  watch  Coronis  after  she  became 
pregnant  Cordki  proved  a  useful  companion 
to  us  afterwards;  as  he  always  accompanied 
our  horses,  and  protected  us  from  the  attacks 
of   the   large   dogs  swarming  in   the   Turkish 


▼kited,  and  accurately  surveyed  by  him.  Such  a  work,  to  use  his  own 
words,  M  although  it  be  only  calculated  to  become  a  booh  of  reference, 
emd  mot  of  general  entertainment,"  would  be  really  useful ;  and  its  value 
would  be  felt,  if  not  by  an  indolent  reader  at  his  fire-side,  yet  by  the 
active  and  enterprising  scholar,  who  wishes  to  be  guided  in  his  re- 
searches throughout  these  interesting  regions. 
(3)  A  ehepherd's  dog  was  represented  as  an  accompaniment  to  the 
of  the  God,  of  ivory  and  gold,  in  his  temple. 

D    D   2 


404  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,    towns  and  villages,  and  constantly  assailing  a 

s^vw  traveller   upon  his  arrival :    indeed,  sometimes 

it  became  a  question  with  us,  whether  Ibrahim 

or  Cordki  were  the  most  intelligent  and  useful 

Tchohadar. 

IsLnm.  ^  Coroni,  turning  towards  the  east,  we  had 
the  first  sight  of  the  Hieron.  Its  general 
disposition  may  have  been  anticipated  by  the 
Reader,  in  the  description  already  given  of  the 
features  of  Epidauria.    It  is  a  small  and  beautiful 

Mountains. valley,  surrounded  by  high  mountains;  one  of 
superior  magnitude  bounding  the  prospect  on 
its  eastern  side.  This,  from  its  double  summit, 
consisting  of  two  rounded  eminences,  may 
be  the  mammillary  mountain,  thence  called 
Titthion,  by  Pausanias,  from  tit0oc;  which 
word,  among  a  great  variety  of  other  instances 
proving  the  common  origin  of  the  two  lan- 
guages*, we  have  retained  in  our  word   teat; 


(1)  *Opi|  Ik  dtriv  virip  rb  aXtroQ,  rb  rt  TIT9I0Y,  *ai  Zrtpov 
6vofiaZ6fi€vov  Kvvopriov,  MaXidrov  Sk  'AiroWwog  Up6v  iv  awrm. 
Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  27.  pp.  174, 175.     Lips.  1696. 

(2)  The  nation  from  whom  the  Greeks  were  descended,  and  the 
ancestors  of  the  JZnglish,  spoke  dialects  of  the  same  language*  The 
numberless  proofs  that  might  be  adduced  of  this  are  foreign  to  the 
object  of  this  publication  ;  but,  as  to  an  authority  for  the  common 
origin  of  the  two  colonies,  the  author  is  proud  to  refer  to  his  Grand- 
father's learned  work  on  "  the  Connection  of  the  Roman  and  Saxem 

Cairn*  ;" 


HIERON.  405 

now  becoming  obsolete.  In  this  valley  were  chap. 
the  sacred  grove?,  and  Sanctuary  of  JEsculapius, 
together  with  numerous  baths,  temples,  a  Sta- 
dium,  a  Theatre,  and  some  medicinal  springs 
and  wells ;  the  remains  of  all  which  may  still 
be  severally  discerned.  The  first  artificial 
object  that  appeared  after  we  left  Coroni,  was 
a  considerable  Ruin,  somewhat  resembling  a 
castle,  at  a  short  distance  in  the  valley  upon 
our  right.  Upon  closer  inspection,  it  proved 
to  be  a  Roman  edifice  of  brick-work,  and  of 
a  square  form ;  possibly  one  of  the  benefactions 
of  Antoninus  Pius,  who,  while  a  Roman  senator, 
erected  here  an  hospital  for  the  reception  of 
pregnant  women  and  dying  persons,  that  were 
before  always  removed  out  of  the  Peribolutf,  to 
be  delivered,  or  to  expire  in  the  open  air. 
Farther  on,  we  perceived  the  traces  of  a  large 
building,  divided  into  several  chambers,  and 
stuccoed  ;  and  it  is  known  that  the  same  senator 
also   built   the    Bath    of  yEsculapius,    besides 

Cobu," — a  work  that  was  highly  priied  by  the  greatest  Grecian 
scholar  England  ever  bad ;  namely,  the  illustrious  Porson  ;  whose 
frequent  illastratlont  and  evidences  of  the  fact  here  alluded  to  are 
recent  in  the  recollection  of  all  who  knew  bim. 

(3)  T6  ii  'Ifpdv  akaoQ  rov  'AcrcXqircov  -Ktpd%ov<nv  Zpoi  xavrax^Bty. 
PaumnitB  Corinthiaea,  c.  27.  p.  17'2.    Lips.  169G. 

(4)  Oboi  &xo9vii<7Kov(Tiy,  ovSi  rixrovaiv  cu  yvvouecc  fffWtv  ivr*£ 
rov  wtpifiokov.    Patuanue  Corinthiaca,  ib. 


406  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  making  other  donations.      We  soon   came   to 


VII. 


what  we  supposed  to  have  been  the  ground-plot 
Temple  of  of  the  Temple:  its  remains  are  seen  only  at 
plus.  one  extremity,  but  the  oblong  plane  upon  which 
this  immense  fabric  stood  is  clearly  marked  out 
by  the  traces  of  its  foundations.  We  had  no 
sooner  arrived,  than  we  were  convinced  that 
the  time  we  proposed  to  dedicate  to  these  Ruins 
would  by  no  means  prove  adequate  to  any 
proper  survey  of  them:  we  found  enough  to 
employ  the  most  diligent  traveller  during  a 
month,  instead  of  a  single  day.  Near  to  the 
temple  is  the  Stadium ;  and  its  appearance  illus- 
trates a  disputed  passage  in  Pausanias\  for  it 
consisted  principally  of  high  banks  of  earth, 
which  were  only  partially  covered  with  seats. 
We  observed  here  a  subterraneous  vaulted  pas- 
sage, now  choked  with  rubbish,  which  con- 
ducted into  its  area2,  on  the  left  side  of  it,  and 
near  to  the  principal  entrance.  This  Stadium 
has  fifteen  rows  of  seats ;  but  the  seats  are  only 
at  the  upper  end  of  the  structure;  the  rest  is 
of  earth,  heaped  so  as  to  form  its  sides.     The 


Stadium. 


(1)  Vid.  Pautan.  Corinth,  e.  27.  p.  173.  lib.  xir.  cam  Annot. 
Xyland.  et  Sylb.    Edit.  Kuhniu    Lip$.  1686. 

(2)  Chandler  says,  it  was  a  private  way,  by  whieh  the  Agenothetm, 
or  Presidents,  with  the  priests  and  persons  of  distinction,  entered.  See 
Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  226. 


H  t  E  R  O  N.  407 

Theatre  is  farther  on  towards  the  mountains,  on   chap. 

vii. 
the  right  hand  ;    and  it  is  one  of  the  most  re- 


markable in  all  Greece ;  not  only  from  the  state  Theatre. 
in  which  it  remains,  but  in  being  mentioned 
by  Pausanias  as  a  work  of  Polycletus,  re- 
nowned for  excelling  all  other  architects  in  the 
harmony  and  beauty  of  his  structures*.  We 
found  a  subterraneous  building,  resembling  a 
small  chapel,  without  being  able  even  to  conjec- 
ture for  what  purpose  it  was  constructed,  unless 
it  were  for  a  bath.  Near  to  it  we  saw  also  a  little 
stone  coffin,  containing  fragments  of  terra-cotta 
vases:  it  had,  perhaps,  been  rifled  by  the  pea- 
sants, and  the  vases  destroyed,  in  the  hope  of 
discovering  hidden  treasure.  But  the  most 
remarkable  relics  within  the  sacred  precinct 
were  architectural  remains  in  terra-cotta.     We^re™?c" 

tural  Terra- 

discovered  the  ornaments  of  a  frieze,  and  part  *>""*• 
of  the  cornice  of  a  temple,  which  had  been 
manufactured  in  earthenware.  Some  of  these 
ornaments  had  been  moulded  for  relievos;  and 
others,  less  perfectly  baked,  exhibited  painted 
surfaces.  The  colours  upon  the  latter  still  re- 
tained much  of  their  original  freshness :  upon 


(3)  ' Ap fioviac  tik  i)  koXXovq  ctvcra,  tftpgcrerraiv  ttoioq  Iq  SuiXXav 
IloXvcXccry  yivotr  &v  &£i6xp***C  \  Uo\vK\tiroQ  yap  Kai  Osarpov  rovro, 
cat  cinipa  t6  ircpcff p*c  6  tcotrjaac  »)v.  Paueanim  Carmthiaea,  c.  27. 
p.  174.    Lips.  1006. 


408  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,   being  wetted  with  water,  they  appeared  as  vivid 
as  when  they  were   first  laid   on ;    resembling 
the  painted  surfaces  of  those    "pictured  urruT 
(as  they  were  termed  by  our  English  Pindar) 
upon  which  it  is  now  usual  to  bestow  the  appel- 
lation of  "  Grecian  vases."    The  wonderful  state 
of  preservation  manifested  by  the  oldest  painted 
terra  cottas  of  Greece  has  been  supposed  to  be 
owing  to  the  circumstance  of  their  remaining  in 
sepulchres  where  the  atmospheric  air  was  ex- 
cluded ;    but  these  ornaments   were    designed 
for  the  outside  of  a  temple,  or  tomb,  and  have 
remained  for  ages  exposed  to  all  the  changes  of 
weather,  upon  the  surface  of  the  soil.     In  the 
description  before  given  of  the  Memphian  Sphinx, 
another  striking  example  was  adduced,  proving 
through  what  a  surprising  lapse  of  time  antient 
painting  has  resisted  decomposition :  and  if  the 
period  of  man's   existence  upon   earth    would 
admit  of  the  antiquity  ascribed  by  Plato  to  cer- 
tain pictures  in  Egypt,  there  would  have  been 
nothing  incredible   in   the  age  he  assigned  to 
them1.     The  colours  upon  these  terra  cottas  were 
a  bright  straw-yellow  and  red.     The  building  to 
which  they  belonged  is  mentioned  by  Pausanias: 


(1)  Seep.  206,  Chap.  IV.  of  the  former  Volume.  «  The  walk  of 
great  ediScet,"  says  Pauw,  (ibid.  p.  90S,)  "  when  once  painted,  re- 
mained so  for  ever." 


H  I  £  R  O  N.  409 

and  to  increase  the  interest  excited  by  the  chap. 
discovery  of  these  curious  remains,  we  found  ^^ 
the  same  passage  of  that  historian  cited  by 
Winkelmann,  to  prove  that  such  materials  were 
used  in  ancient  architecture9.  After  describing 
the  Theatre,  the  Stadium,  and  other  edifices, 
Pausanias  adds3 :  "  The  Hieron  once  contained 
a  portico  (*™a),  called  that  of  Cotys ;  but  the 
roof  felling  in,  caused  the  destruction  of  the 
whole  edifice,  owing  to  the  nature  of  its  mate- 
rials, which  consisted  of  crude  tiles." 

We  then  went,  by  an  antient  road,  to  the  top 
of  a  hill  towards  the  east ;  and  found  upon  the 
summit   the   remains   of    a   temple,   with   steps 
leading  to  it  yet  remaining :  there  is  reason  to 
believe  this  to  have  been    the   Temple   of  the 
Corypfwean  Diana,  upon  Mount  Cynortium,  from  Temple  of 
the  circumstance  of  an  Inscription  which  we  dis-  i1J^ry" 
covered  upon  the  spot.     It  is  imperfect ;  but  it DUtna% 
mentions   a   priest  of  Diana,  of  the  name  of 
Apotatilius,  who  had  commemorated  his  safety 
from  some  disorder : 


(2)  Histoire  de  l'Art  chez  lea  Anciens,  torn.  II.  p.  644.  Paris,  An  2. 

(3)  Kai  fiv  ydp  <rro&  Kakovfikvrj  KStvoq,  Karafipvtvroc  is  ol  rov 
ip6fov,  itifOapro  ySrj  iracra,  iirt  bfifJQ  rrjc  irXlvBov  TOirfOtlffa.  Pausatu 
Corinthiaca,  c.  27.  p.  174.     Lips.  1606. 


410  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.  APTEMIAOCAT 

VII. 

OTATEIAIOCCoN 
EPAPOAHACTOC 

By  the  side  of  this  temple  there  was  a  bath,  or 
reservoir,  lined  with  stucco,  thirty  feet  by  eight, 
with   some   lumachella  columns    of  the    Doric 
order:  the  foundations  and  part  of  the  pave- 
ment of  the  temple  yet  exist,  and  these  are  not 
less   than   sixty  paces    in   extent:    we   noticed, 
some  channels  grooved  in  the  marble,  for  con- 
veying water  in  different  directions.     The  traced 
of   buildings   may   be   observed    upon    all  the 
mountains  which  surrounded  the  sacred  valley  £ 
and  over  all  this  district  their  remains  are  as 
various  as  their  history  is  indeterminate.     Some 
of  them  seem  to  have  been  small  sanctuaries* 
like   chapels ;    others  appear    as    baths,   foun- 
tains, and  aqueducts.     The  Temple  of  the  Cory- 
phcean  Diana  is  mentioned  by  Pausanias1 ;  and 
being  identified  with  this  ruin,  it  may  serve  to 
establish  a  point  of  observation  for  ascertaining 
the  edifices  described  by  the  same  author  as  in 
its  neighbourhood.     It  was  upon  the  summit  of 


(1)  'Ejt»  dk  rif  aKpa  rov  6povQt  Kopvfaiac  kvriv  Upbv  'Apripi&oct  •* 
icai  TcAcTiWa  lirotrjvaro  kv  depart  pvijpriv.  Paumn.  Corinth.  €.  B. 
p.  175.  Lips.  1096. 


HIERON.  411 

ortium  ;  and  had  been  noticed  by  Telesilla,    chap. 

VII. 

er  poems.  We  next  came  to  a  singular  and  ^*y*^ 
picturesque  structure,  with  more  the^"^60' 
larance  of  a  cave  than  of  a  building.  It  was 
red  with  hanging  weeds,  overgrown  with 
les,  and  almost  buried  in  the  mountain : 
interior  of  it  exhibited  a  series  of  circular 
es,  in  two  rows,  supporting  a  vaulted  roof; 
buttresses  between  the  arches  being  propped 
short  columns.  Possibly  this  may  have 
t  the  building  which  Chandler,  in  his  dry 
,  called  "a  Church"  without  giving  any 
ription  of  it ;  where,  besides  fragments,  he 
id  an  Inscription  to-  far-darting  "Apollo*." 
upposes  the  Temple  of  Apollo  which  was  upon 
int  Cynortium  to  have  stood  upon  this  spot. 

elow  this  mountain,  by  the  northern  side  of  circular 
iter-course,  now  dry,  and  rather  above  the 
where  it  discharged  itself  into  the  valley, 
small  building  of  a  circular  form,  covered 
i  dome,  with  arches  round  the  top.  We 
id  a  few  imperfect  Inscriptions,  one  of 
:h  mentions  Hierophants,  or  Priests  of  Mars, 

See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter.  The  arches  may  be  as  old  as 
ne  of  Pausanias.  The  Inscription  mentioned  by  Chandler  it  as 
i :  "  Diogenes  the  hierophant,  to  far-darting  Apollo,  on  account 
Ision  in  his  sleep."    Tray,  in  Greece,  p.  226.    Oxf.  1770. 


412  PELOPONNESUS. 

r  chap.    (Ilup^opot,)    dedicating    some    votive    offering. 
All  that  we  could  trace  were  these  letters : 

IAPE 
♦  AI2N 
PYP*OPO 
ANE0HKA 

The  circular  building  is  too  modern  in  its  aspect, 
and  too  mean  in  its  materials,  for  the  Tholus 
of  Pausanias1,  of  white  marble,  built  by  Poly- 
cletus,  architect  of  the  theatre ;  but  it  may,  per- 
haps, correspond  better  with  the  fountain  which 
he  alludes  to,  as  remarkable  for  its  roof  and 
decorations9 ;  this  kind  of  roof  being  almost 
unknown  in  Greece,  *fhe  building,  although 
smaller,  bears  some  resemblance  to  the  well- 
known  bath,  improperly  called  the  Temple  of 
Venus  at  Baite. 


Thereof      Hence  we  repaired  to  the  Theatre,  now  upon 

Polycletxis.  r  t 

our  left  hand,  but  upon  the  right  to  those  en- 
tering the  Hieron  from  Cvroni,  that  is  to  say, 
upon  its  southern  side3.     Chandler  speaks  of  its 


(1 )  O'tKTjfia  H  trtptfipkc  XtOov  XcvroD  raXovfievov  90A02,yro£6/iijr<u 
"xXrjoiov,  9taQ  agtov.     PautanitB  Corinthiaca,  e.  27.  p.  1 73.     Lips.  1 696. 

(2)  Kai  rp>/yi?  rtf  rt  6p<tyy  rai  KOOfnp  TtpXotvtpOtaQ  a£ta.   Ibid. p.  174. 

(3)  'ErtSavpiotQ  ik  £<m  Biarpov  'EN  TQI  'IEPQI,  pakurra  kpoi  tout* 


H1ER0N.  413 

cc marble  seatf9  as  "  overgrown  with  bushes4:"    chap. 

.  VII. 

those  seats,  according  to  our  Notes,  consist  of 
common  limestone ;  a  difference  of  little  moment : 
but  as  we  paid  particular  attention  to  the 
dimensions  and  figure  of  this  splendid  structure, 
one  of  the  most  entire  of  all  the  Grecian  thea- 
tres, and  in  its  original  and  perfect  state  one  of 
the  most  magnificent5,  so  we  shall  be  very  par- 
ticular in  giving  an  account  of  it.  We  found  it 
tenanted  by  a  variety  of  animals,  which  were 
disturbed  at  our  approach, — hares,  red-legged 
partridges,  and  tortoises :  our  new  acquaintance 
Cordkiy  accompanied  by  his  former  master,  a 
descendant  of  the  goatherd  Aresthanas,  bounded 
among  the  seats,  and,  driving  them  from  their 
haunts,  soon  put  us  into  sole  possession. 
But  an  animal  of  a  very  different  nature  was 
dragged  from  his  lurking-place  by  Mr.  Cripps ; 


<Uwv.  (Ibid.)  This  expression  of  Pausanias, ''  Within  the  Hieron,"  or 
tacred  precinct,  has  been  by  some  preposterously  rendered  "  Within 
the  Temple."    A  Theatre  within  a  temple!  ! ! 

(4)  Trar.  in  Greece,  p.  235.     Oxf.  1776. 

(5)  This  is  evident  from  the  manner  in  which  it  is  always  mentioned 
by  Paueaniat,  who  speaks  of  the  comparative  magnificence  and  archi- 
tectural skill  shewn  in  other  theatres,  with  reference  to  this  of  Poly- 
detiu  in  Epidauria.  Thus,  when  he  is  giving  an  account  of  a  theatre 
in  j£gina,  he  says  of  it,  QtarpSv  iori  Qiac.  altov,  xard  ri>  'Emdavpiatv 
ftiXurra  fiiyiOoc  Kal  ipyaoiav  rg  v  \oinrjv.  Pautan.  Corinth,  c.  29.  p, 
1*0.    Lips.im. 


414  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  who,  delighted  by  the  discovery  he  had  made, 
v^^O  came  running  with  an  extraordinary  snake 
sitpent"71  which  he  had  caught  among  some  myrtles,  and 
held  writhing  in  his  hands.  It  was  of  a  bright 
yellow  colour,  shining  like  burnished  gold,  about 
a  yard  in  length,  such  as  none  of  us  had  seen 
before*  The  peasants,  however,  knew  it  to  be 
a  species  of  harmless  serpent,  which  they  had 
been  accustomed  to  regard  with  tenderness, 
and  even,  with  superstitious  veneration  ;  telling 
us  it  would  be  unlucky  in  any  one  who  should 
do  it  injury.  It  was,  in  fact,  one  of  the  curious 
breed  described  by  Pausanias,  as  peculiar  to  the 
country  of  the  JEpidaurians,  being  always  harm- 
less, and  of  a  yellow  colour1.  We  could  not, 
however,  assist  Mr.  Cripps  in  its  preservation ; 
no  one  of  our  party  being  able  to  divest  himself 
sufficiently  of  a  very  common  antipathy  for  ser- 
pents: and  the  consequence  was,  that  being 
unwilling  to  put  it  to  death,  and  the  peasants 
wishing  for  its  release,  he  suffered  it  to  escape. 


Aspect  of  The  Coilon  of  this  theatre,  as  usual,  has  been 
scooped  in  the  side  of  a  mountain  ;  but  it  faces 
the  north.     As  the  sea  could  not  enter  into  the 


(1)  Ap&coyrcg  H  ol  \oticoi  Kai  irtoov  ykvoq  Iq  to  ZavOonpov  piiromt, 
Xp4ac»  kpoi  filv  rov  MffJcXiyiriov  vopiZ,ovraif  Kai  tfoiv  avBpvTOtg  4/MpW 
rpifu  61  fiSvr)  o$clq  tf  r&v  'BiritiavpUav  yrj,  PausanuB  Corintkiacfy  e. 
28.  p.  175.    Lips,  1606. 


HIBRON.  415 

perspective,  which  seems  to  have  been  a  chap. 
[eoeral  aim  of  the  architects  by  whom  such 
tructures  were  planned  throughout  Greece, 
bis  position  of  the  theatre  may  have  been 
esigned  to  afford  it  as  much  shade  as  its 
ituation  was  capable  of  receiving.  Its  northern 
spect,  and  the  mountain  towering  behind  it, 
lost  have  protected  the  whole  edifice,  during  a 
Teat  portion  of  the  day,  from  the  beams  of 
le  sun ;  and  we  may  suppose  this  to  have  been 
consideration,  rather  than  any  circumstance  of 
ipediency  as  to  the  mountain  itself,  because 
le  whole  circumference  of  the  Peribolus 
(Forded  declivities  equally  well  adapted  to  the 
urpose  of  constructing  a  theatre;  and  it 
\  also  well  known  that  the  Greeks  were 
•equently  obliged  to  carry  umbrellas  (<nc«aSia) 
ith  them  into  their  theatres :  submitting 
>  their  incumbrance,  rather  than  remain 
[posed  to  the  sun's  rays,  The  women  upon 
ich  occasions  were  also  attended  by  their 
mbrella-bearers  (owaSf^tfpoc)9;  and  this  cus- 
>m,  from  the  increase  it  occasioned  in  the 
irong,  added  to  the  embarrassment  caused 
oaong  the  audience  by  the  number  of  um- 
rellas  intercepting  the  view  of  the  stage,  must 
ave  rendered  a  shaded  theatre  a  very  desirable 


(3)  JBlian.  Hist.  Var.  lib.  vl.  c.  1.    Lipt.  1780. 


/ 

/ 


A 


416  PELOPONNESUS. 


.     ■.-'■    H 

f  i 


*  4 


chap,  acquisition.  Indeed,  we  know  that,  upon  some 
occasions,  temporary  sheds  and  large  awnings 
were  erected  for  the  convenience  of  the  spectators. 
Every  provision  of  this  kind  was  doubly  neces- 
sary in  the  Hieron ;  by  its  nature  sultry,  owing 
to  its  surrounding  mountains,  and  filled  with 
inhabitants  selected  from  all  the  invalids  of 
Greece^ — the  feeble,  the  enervated,  the  effemi- 
nated votaries  of  the  God, — vainly  seeking  in 
these  retreats  a  renovation  of  exhausted  nature  > 
or,  aged  and  infirm  persons,  anxiously  looking 
for  some  gleam  of  cheerfulness,  wherewith  to 
gladden  the  termination  of  a  career  that  knew 
no  hope  beyond  the  grave.  It  is  evident  that 
the  disposition  of  this  popular  place  of  amuse- 
ment was  arranged  with  luxury  as  well  as 
convenience ;  for,  in  addition  to  the  shade  it 
offered,  the  salutary  waters  of  the  Hieron 
flowed  in  the  deep  bed  of  a  torrent  immediately 
beneath  its  front1.  With  regard  to  the  theatre 
itself,  the  Scene,  or,  as  it  has  been  sometimes 
improperly  called,  the  Proscenion*,  has  totally 


(1)  It  is  impossible  to  multiply  the  number  of  engravings  so  often 
as  the  insufficiency  of  a  written  description  renders  their  aid  requisite; 
but  the  Reader  is  particularly  referred  to  a  view  of  this  Theatre,  of 
the  torrent's  course,  which  is  now  dry,  and  of  the  whole  Hieron,  a* 
engraved  from  a  drawing  made  upon  the  spot  by  Sir  W.  Gell.  See 
Itinerary  of  Greece,  Plate  22,  p.  104.    Land.  1810. 

(2)  This  name  applies  only  to  the  Stage  of  a  Greek  Theatre, 


\ 


H  I  E  R  0  N. 


41? 


tpeared  ;  and  a9  it  was  here  that  Polycletus  chap. 
ably   exhibited  the  greatest  proof  of  those   >-^-w 
itectural     talents    so    highly    extolled    by 
mniasy  the  loss  of  it  is  to  be  regretted  :  but  Perfect 
is  the  entire  state  of  the  structure  within  J^^16 
Coilon,  that  none  of  the  seats  are  either 
ing  or  imperfect.     Owing  to  their  remark- 
preservation,    we    were    enabled   to  mea- 
with  the  greatest  accuracy,  the   diameter 
le  Conistra,   and  the  dimensions   of  all  the 
*  appropriated  to  the  spectators.     There  is 
'thing  remarkable  even  in  the  position  of 
eats :  their  surface  is  not  perfectly  horizontal ; 
architect    has    given    to    them    a    slight 
nation,   perhaps  that  water  might  not  rest 
i  them  during  rain.     The  section  of  these 
would  exhibit  a  pro61e  of  this  kind : 


CUES 


H-  INCHES 


_J 


L.   VI.  E    E 


418  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.  By  a  simple  contrivance,  which  is  here  visible, 


the  seats  of  the  spectators  were  not  upon  a  level 
Dimen-  with  the  places  for  the  feet  of  those  who  sate 
Detau  of  behind  them ;  a  groove,  eighteen  inches  wide, 
the  Parts.  an(j  aj)0Uj  two  inelies  deep,   being  dug  in  the 

solid  mass  of  stone  whereof  each  seat  consisted, 
expressly  for  the  reception  of  the  feet ;  and  this 
groove  extended  behind  every  row  of  spec- 
tators ;  by  which  means  their  garments  were 
not  trampled  upon  by  persons  seated  above 
them.  The  width  of  each  seat  was  fourteen 
inches,  and  its  perpendicular  elevation  sixteen 
inches.  The  number  of  the  seats,  counted  as 
steps  from  the  Conistra  or  Pit,  to  the  top  of  the 
Coilon,  was  fifty-six1 :  in  the  same  direction 
from  the  Pit,  upwards,  the  semicircular  ranges 
of  the  seats  were  intersected  at  right  angles  by 
above  twenty  flights  of  little  stairs  ;  each  flight 
being  twenty-eight  inches  and  a  half  wide,  and 
each  step  exactly  half  the  height  of  one  of  the 
benches :  these,  crossing  the  several  rows  from 
the  Pit  upwards,  enabled  persons  to  ascend  to 
the  top  of  the  theatre,  without  incommoding  the 
spectators  when  seated.  Guilktiere,  speaking 
of  such   stairs,   says,   that  near  to  them  were 


(1)  Sir  W.  Gell  says  fifty-five. 


HIERON.  419 

passages  leading  to  the  outer  porticoes,  by  CyAp" 
which  the  spectators  entered  to  take  their 
places9.  He  seems  to  have  founded  this  notion 
upon  the  plan  of  a  Roman  theatre,  the  view  of 
which  he  has  given  in  his  work3.  We  do  not 
remember  ever  to  have  seen  in  Grecian  theatres 
any  such  retreats  or  entrances^  near  to  the  little 
stairs  for  crossing  the  benches:  the  entrances 
to  a  Greek  theatre  were  either  vaulted  passages 
at  the  sides,  near  to  what  we  should  call  the 
stage-boxes,  or  in  the  exterior  front  of  the  Scene , 
behind  the  stage  itself1.  Many  authors  speak 
of  those  porticoes,  as  being  erected  behind  the 
Cavea;  which,  as  applied  to  the  theatres  of  Greece, 
is  ridiculous9 ;  for  what  can  be  more  absurd 
than  to  tell  of  buildings  behind  seats  which 
were  either  integral  parts  of  a  mountain,  or 
were  adapted  to  its  solid  surface.  The  por- 
ticoes to  which  the  audience  retired  for  shelter, 
in   rainy  weather,  must    have  had    a   different 


(3)  See  Chap.  IV.  p.  529,  of  this  Volume. 

(3)  See  Plate  facing  p.  1,  from  a  design  by  Guiilet ;  engraved  by 
OobitJe,  "  Athene*  ancienne  et  moderne."     Paris,  1675. 

(4)  See  a  View  of  the  Theatre  at  Tel  menus,  in  Chap.  VIII.  Vol.  II. 
of  the  Quarto  Edition  of  these  Travels,  facing  p.  236.  Broxbourne. 
Second  Edit. 

(5)  See  Potter's  Archaeolog.  Qretc.  vol.  I.  p.  42.    Load.  1751 .    Har- 
Orme.  Antiq.  p.  18.     Land.  1801,  &c.  &c. 

E    E    2 


420  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,   situation.     The  whole   of  the  Coilon,  or  Cavea, 
that  is  to  say,  of  the  seats  taken  altogether,  was 
separated  into  two  parts,  an  upper  and  a  lower 
tier,  by  a  diazoma  or  corridor,  half  way  from 
the  top,  running  parallel  to  the  rows  of  seats ; 
and  in  this,  as  upon  a  platform,  there  was  space 
from  one  extremity  of  the  circular  arch  to  the 
other.     The  two  parts  of  a  theatre,  thus  sepa- 
rated, are  perhaps  all  that  Vitruvius  intended  by 
the   "two    distinct    elevations    of  the  rows  of 
benches,"  which  Guilletiere  complained  of  being 
unable  to  reconcile  with  anything  now  remain* 
ing  of  antient  theatres1.     The  diameter  of  the 
Conistra,  or  Pit,  taken  in  the  widest  part,  is  one 
hundred  and  five  feet ;  but  as  the  circular  arch 
of  the  Theatre  is  greater  than  a  semicircle,  the 
width  of  the  orchestra,  that  is  to  say,  the  chord 
of  the    arch,    is   barely   equal   to  ninety   feet2. 
Facing  the  Theatre,  upon   the  opposite  bank  of 
the  bed  of  the  torrent  before  mentioned,  are  the 
foundations  of  an  edifice  of  considerable  size  :  but 
it  were  endless    to   enumerate  every    indistinct 


(1)  Seep.  507,  Chap.  IV.  of  this  Volume. 

(2)  Sir   W.  Gtll  states  it  as  equal  to  eighty-nine  feet.    See  I  tin.  ef 
Greece,  p.  108.    Lend.  1810. 


LBSSA.  421 

trace   of   antient    buildings   within    this    cele-   chap. 

VII 

brated  valley  ;  nor  would  such  a  detail  afford  v^vw 
the  smallest  satisfactory  information.  With  the 
description  of  the  Theatre  we  shall  therefore 
conclude  our  observations  upon  the  Hieron  ; 
hoping  that  nothing  worthy  of  notice  has  been 
omitted,  respecting  one  of  the  most  perfect 
structures  of  the  kind  in  all  Greece. 

We  returned  by  the  way  of  Coroni ;  and  near  Journey  to 
to  JLiguno  took  a  western  course  in  the  road 
leading  towards  Nauplia,  the  antient  port  of 
Argos*.  After  journeying  for  about  an  hour, 
through  a  country  resembling  many  parts  of 
the  Apennines,  we  saw  a  village  near  the  road, 
with  a  ruined  castle  upon  a  hill,  to  the  right, 
where  the  remains  of  Lessa  are  situate.  This  xeaa. 
village  is  halfway  between  Ligurid  and  Nauplia ; 
and  here  was  the  antient  boundary  between  Epi- 
dauria  and  the  Argive  territory4.  Those  Ruins 
have  not  yet  been  visited  by  any  traveller : 
indeed,  there  is  much  to  be  done  through- 
out  Argolis  :    this   country  particularly  merits 


(3)'H  NAYDAIA,  rb  rwv  'Apyctuiv  vavcTaBfiov.  Strab.  Qeog.  lib. 
▼Ui.  p.  505.    ed.  Oxon.  1807. 

(4)  Kara  $k  r^v  Aij<T<xav  egcrat  rrj£  'Apyttac  i?  'E-rriSavpiutv.  Paui. 
Corinth,  c.  26.  p.  169.     Lips.  1696. 


422  PELOPONNESUS. 

C*J^P-  investigation.  The  antiquities  that  occurred  in 
v^v-^  our  route  were  principally  of  a  sepulchral 
*n&  Egyp-  nature,  near  to  the  antient  road  leading  from 
qnities.  Nauplia,  towards  Lessa  and  JEpidaurus  ;  but  so 
peculiarly  characterized,  as  to  form  and  struc- 
ture, that  it  is  evident  they  were  the  works 
of  the  earliest  coloinies  in  Peloponnesus,  and 
probably  of  Dorian  origin.  One  of  these  monu- 
ments is  decidedly  mentioned  by  Pausanias,  as 
we  shall  presently  shew  ;  the  only  author  to 
whom  we  can  refer  for  information  concerning 
this  part  of  the  Peloponnesus.  Strabo  makes 
but  few  remarks  upon  the  Argive  territory ;  and 
even  these  are  delivered  from  the  observations 
of  Artemidorus  and  Apollodorus  ;  not  having 
himself  visited  the  spot1.  We  passed  some 
tombs  that  were  remarkable  in  having  large  rude 
stones,  of  a  square  form,  placed  upon  their  tops; 
torn  alluded  to  by  Pausanias  in  the  descrip- 
tion hefi&agiven  of  the  tumulus  raised  by  Telamon 
upon  the  shore  of  JEgina,  near  to  the  jSEachan. 
The  (x^Ma)  heap  had  upon  the  top  of  it 
'Arttoc  rpayyq)  "  a  rugged  stone,"  once  used, 
cording  to  a  tradition  in  the  second  century, 
Peleus  and  Telamon,  as  a  discus,  with  which 


•. 


lav  go  q,  <iȣ  '  Aprtfiititttpog  fijaiv.     'AiroXXo^otpoc  $i,  c.  r.  A. 
lib.  viii.  pp.  534,  685.    edit.  Ox  on.  1807. 

\ 


\ 


423 


A  R  G  O  L  I  S. 

Peleus  slew  P hocus,  during  a  game  of  quoits9.  It  Cvnf- 
has  been  a  common  notice  everywhere,  that 
anlient  heroes  were  men  of  gigantic  stature. 
The  fable,  therefore,  as  related  to  Pausanias  by 
the  JEginetans,  is  of  little  moment ;  but  the  fact 
of  a  stone  so  placed  is  sufficient  to  prove  that 
such  a  substitute  for  the  Stilt  was  found  upon 
a  Dorian  tumulus  of  very  remote  antiquity  ;  and 
the  observation  of  the  historian  is  in  some 
measure  confirmed  by  the  existence  of  similar 
tombs  in  Argolis  corresponding  with  his  de- 
scription of  the  mound  in  JEgina ;  the  Dorians 
having  possessed  this  island  and  the  Argive 
territory  nearly  twelve  centuries  before  the 
Christian  aera :  at  that  time  the  Peloponnesus  was 
the  principal  seat  of  their  power,  and  by  them 
the  city  of  Megara  was  then  founded.  Upon 
the  left-hand  side  of  the  road  we  also  observed 
an  Egyptian  sepulchre,  having  a  pyramidal 
shape :  and  agreeing  so  remarkably,  both  as  to 
form  and  situation,  with  a  monument  mentioned 
by  Pausanias,  that  we  believed  ourselves  to  be 
actually  viewing  the  identical  tomb  seen  by 
him8.     He  supposes  the  traveller  coming  in  a 


(S)Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinthiac.  c.  89.  pp.  179, 180.  Lips.  169G. 

WfyXOfUvotc  &'  iK'Apyovc  le  **i)v  *Ewidavpiavt  forty  oiKoSoprjpa 
b  Mij  rvpapltt  fidkicrra  tUaefttvov,  c.  r.  X.  Paus.  Corinth,  c.  26  p. 
1*.   Uft.  1696. 


424  PELOPONNESUS. 

CvfrP'    con*rary  direction  from  the  line  of  our  route; 
that  is  to  say,  from  Argos  towards  JSpidauria; 
and  in  so  doing  he  describes  a  pyramidal  struc- 
ture as  being  upon  the  right  of  the  observer.     It 
contained,  he  says1,  shields  of  an  Argolk  form ; 
for  a  battle  had  once  been  fought  in  the  place, 
between  the  armies  of  Prcetus  and  Acrisius,  upon 
which  occasion  shields  were  first  used,  and  those 
who  fell  on  either  side  were  here  buried  in  one 
common   sepulchre.     However,  he  is  evidently 
describing  a  sepulchre  nearer  to  Argos  ;  for  he 
adds,  that  upon  quitting  the  spot,  and  turning 
towards  the  right  hand,  the   Ruins  of  Tiryni 
appear8:     therefore   the   pyramidal    form    may 
have  been  common  to  many  antient  sepulchres 
in   Argolis.      Lessa  was   but  a  village  in  the 
time  of  Pausanias*,  as  it  now  is;    but  it  was 
remarkable  for  a  temple  and   wooden  image4  of 
Minerva  ;    and   upon  the  mountain  above  the 
village,    perhaps  where  the  castle   now  stands, 
there  were  altars  of  Jupiter  and  Juno,  whereon 
sacrifices   were    offered  in    times   of    drought5. 


(1)  Pautan.  Corinth,  ibid. 

(2)  Hpoiovai  Sk  IvrivQtv  rat  irrparrctfftv  if  StZutv,  TlpvvBoc  lariv 
JpctVia.     Ibid.  c.  25.  p.  109.     Lips.  1696. 

(3)  Kara  St  rffv  Iq  'Eiritiavpov  evOtlav,  ten  KQMH  Aijaaa.     Ibid.  p. 
1G9. 

(4)  Naog  Kdi  loavov.     Ibid- 

(5)  Ibid. 


AROOLIS.  425 

The  mountain  then  bore  the  name  of  Arachnaeus :  CJ*£P- 
its  antient  appellation,  under  Inachus,  had  been  >^v^w 
Sapyselatdn5.  Mom. 

During  this  part  of  our  journey,  the  more 
distant  mountains  of  the  Morea  appeared  ex- 
tremely  lofty,  elevating  their   naked   summits 
with    uncommon    sublimity.       The    road    led 
through  a  mountain  pass  that  had  been  strongly 
fortified.      We  saw  everywhere   proofs   of   the 
fertility  of  the  soil ;  in  the  more  open  valleys, 
plantations  of  pomegranate  and  mulberry  trees  ; 
and  even  amidst  the  most  rocky  situations,  there 
sprouted  myrtles,  beautiful  heaths,  and  flower- 
ing shrubs,  among  which  sheep  and  goats  were 
browsing  in   great  number.     We   met   several 
herds  upon  the  road,  each  herd  containing  from 
seven  to  nine  hundred  head  of  cattle.     As  we 
drew  near   to   the  sea-side,   we  passed  a  very 
extensive  plantation  of  olive-trees ;  and  came  to . 
an  antient  paved  road,   leading  from  Nauplia 
towards     Argos    the     once-renowned     capital. 
Sepulchres,  as  old  as  the  age  of  Danaus,  appeared 
among  the  rocks  before  we  reached  the  town. 
Strabo  assigns  to  them  even  an  earlier  date  ;  he 


(0)  EaTi/ffiXdrwv.     Ibid. 


426  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  says  they  were  called  Cyclopia,  as  having  been 
y^s^s  the  work  of  the  Cyclops1 ;  it  being  usual  to  at- 
Cytiopta.  tribute  to  a  race  of  men  who,  from  their  power, 
were  considered  by  after-ages  as  giants,  any 
result  of  extraordinary  labour8.  The  beauties 
of  the  scenery,  and  the  interesting  nature  of  the 
country,  had  detained  us  so  long,  that  we  did  not 
Xaupiia.  reach  Naupija  until  the  gates  were  shut1; 
and  there  was  no  possibility  of  causing  a  re- 
quest to  be  conveyed  to  the  Governor  for  their 
being  opened  ;  neither  would  any  attention  have 
been  paid  to  such  our  petition,  if  it  had  been 
made.  The  worst  of  the  scrape  was,  that  all  our 
beds  and  baggage,  being  with  the  sumpter- 
horses  and  guides,  had  already  entered  the  town 
before  the  gates  had  been  closed.  There 
seemed,  therefore,  to  be  no  other  alternative, 
but  that  of  ending  a  long  day  of  entire  fasting 
without   any   hope   of    nourishment,    and   with 


(1)  'Effgifc  ik  rp  NavarXia  ra  ffirqXata,  xai  oi  iv  clvtoiq  ouco^o/tifrot 
XafiCpivBoi'  KYKAQIJEIA  £'  6vopaZovotv.  Strabon.  Geog  lib,  tiii. 
p.  630.  ed.  Oxon. 

(2)  *'  Cyclopia  autem  dicta  hsec  vfdentur,  ob  magnitodine :  '  nam, 
ioqait  vetus  Papinii  interpres  (ad  Theb.  I.  i.  ver.  961.)  •  qukquid  mag- 
nitudine  tud  nobile  est,  Cyclojtum  manu  dicitur  fabricatum.'  "  Vid. 
Annot.  Cataub.  in  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  *iii.  p.  586.  (4.)  edit.  Oxon.  1807. 

(3)  Sir  W.  Gell  makes  the  distance  from  Ligurid  to  Xaupiia  fire 
hoars  and  forty-eight  minutes ;  not  quite  equal  to  sixteen  miles  English. 
See  Jtin.  of  Greece,  p.  101.     Lond.  1810. 


NAUPLIA.  427 

\  certainty  of  passing  the  rest  of  the  night  c"*p- 
lseless  in  the  suburbs  of  Nauplia.  After 
ae  time,  the  Tchohadar  found  a  miserable 
*d,  whose  owner  he  compelled  to  provide  a 
r  boards  for  us  to  sit  upon ;  but  neither  the 
srs  of  money,  nor  Ibrahim's  boasted  resource 
flagellation,  from  which  we  found  it  almost 
possible  to  restrain  him,  availed  any  thing 
yards  bettering  either  our  lodging  or  our  fare, 
eary,  cold,  and  comfortless,  we  remained 
mting  the  moments  until  the  morning ;  with- 
t  fire,  without  light,  without  rest,  without 
d :  but  the  consciousness  of  being  upon 
ra  firma,  and  that  we  were  not  exposed,  as 
had  often  been,  under  circumstances  of 
ual  privation,  to  the  additional  horrors  of  a 
npestuous  sea,  made  our  situation  compara- 
ely  good,  and  taught  us  to  be  thankful. 

As  soon   as  day-light  appeared,  the  worthy 

>nsul,  Mr.  Victor  Dalmar,  who  had  received 

r   baggage,   and   was    uneasy  for  the   safety 

his  expected    guests,    caused   the   gates   to 

opened    rather   earlier   than   usual4.       The 


I)  u  The  Turks  suspend  a  sabre  o?er  the  gateway,  as  a  memorial 
t  the  place  was  taken  by  assault."    Squire's  MS,  Correspondence. 


428  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.   Governor,  to  whom  he  had  made  application, 
^w    sent  orders  to  the  gate,  desiring  to  see  us.     We 
begged    to  decline   this   honour,    pleading  our 
fatigue  and  indisposition  as  an  apology  for  not 
waiting  upon  him  ;  but  sent  the  Tchohadar,  as 
our   representative.      Ibrahim,    having    put  on 
his  fur  pelisse,   and   a  fine  tall  calpack  with  a 
turban   of    white    muslin,  looked  like  a  Vizir, 
and  quite  as  respectable  as  any  Pasha  of  three 
tails  throughout  the  Giand  Signiors  dominions. 
When  we  arrived   at   the   Consul's   house,   we 
found  sitting  in  a  little  hot  close  room  smelling 
most  unpleasantly   of    stale   tobacco   fumes,   a 
short  corpulent  man  about  fifty  years  of  age, 
who  began  talking  to  us  very  loud,  as  people 
often  do  with  foreigners,  believing  them  to  be 
deaf:  he  announced  himself  to  us  as  our  host; 
and,  from  the  appearance  of  everything  around 
him,   we   expected    indifferent   accommodation. 
House  of    In  this,  however,  we  were  mistaken :  we  were 
"  shewn  to  some  rooms  lately  whitewashed  ;  the 
chambers   of    the    Consul's    house,     as    usual, 
surrounding  a  court,  and  communicating  with 
each   other   by  means  of  a  gallery.     In  these 
rooms   there    was   not  a  single  article   of    fur- 
niture, but  they  were  clean,  and  we  were  able 
to  spread  our  mattrasses  upon  the  floor;  and 
soon  found  ourselves  comfortably  lodged  in  as 


N  A  U  P  L  I  A.  429 

hospitable  a  mansion  as  any  in  all  Greece ;  our  chap. 
benevolent  host  contriving  everything  for  our  v^v^ 
welcome,  and  endeavouring  to  prolong  our  stay 
as  much  as  possible.  After  we  had  taken  a 
little  rest,  we  were  roused  by  the  firing  of 
Turkish  cannon  in  the  Citadel;  and  Ibrahim, 
returning  from  his  mission,  brought  the  Gover- 
nor's message  to  the  Consul,  informing  him  that 
he  bad  just  received  from  Stambol  (Constan- 
tinople) intelligence  of  the  expulsion  of  the 
French  from  Egypt;  and  that  he  had  orders 
from  his  Government  to  make  it  publickly 
known.  We  were  shewn  a  copy  of  the  Takhrir,  Turkish 
or  official  note,  the  only  Turkish  Gazette  we 
had  ever  seen,  announcing  an  event  nearly  a 
quarter  of  a  year  after  it  had  happened.  It  was 
in  manuscript,  and  Mr.  Dalmar  translated  it  for 
us.  The  nature  of  the  intelligence  was  curious 
enough  :  it  set  forth,  after  a  long  pompous 
preamble,  that  "public  rejoicings  were  to  be  held 
throughout  the  Ottoman  Empire,  for  the  deliverance 
of(Misr)  Egypt  from  the  hands  of  cursed  Infidels 
forsaken  of  God,  owing  to  the  bravery  and  prudence 
of  Hussein  Pasha  and  of  the  troops  belonging  to  the 
Sublime  Porte  of  solid  glory,  led  on  by  their  great 
Prophet"  §fc.  Sfc.  The  only  mention  made  of  any 
obligation  to  Great  Britain  was  tagged  on  in  the 
form  of  a  postscript,  merely  stating  that  "  English 


430  .       PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.  Djowrs  (Infidels)  had  acted  friendly  upon  the 
ww  occasion.9'  Thus  the  deliverance  of  Egypt,  pur- 
chased at  the  price  of  British  blood,  and  for 
which  Abercrombie died,  throughoutthe  immense 
empire  of  Turkey  was  ascribed  to  a  dastardly 
banditti,  who  were  idle  spectators  of  the  con- 
test, encumbering  rather  than  aiding  the  opera* 
tions  of  our  armies. 

* 

Public  The  rejoicings  at  Nauplia  began  immediately : 

*"'  they  consisted  of  an  irregular  discharge  of  small 
artillery  most  wretchedly  managed,  and  the  ex* 
hibition  of  athletic  sports  before  the  Governor's 
windows;  followed  afterwards  by  a  few  bad 
fireworks,  displayed  without  any  effect,  by  day- 

Attdet*.  light.  The  Athletes  were  principally  wrestlers. 
We  saw  two  of  them  advance  into  the  arena 
where  the  combat  was  to  take  place :  they  came 
hand  in  hand,  capering  and  laughing  as  if  highly 
gratified  by  the  opportunity  of  shewing  their 
skill :  presently  they  put  themselves  in  various 
attitudes,  and  began  to  make  faces  at  each 
other.  These  men  afforded  a  perfect  repre- 
sentation of  the  antient  IlaAq,  the  oldest  of 
ail  the    exercises1.      They    wore    tight   leather 


(1)  Even  the  origin  of  its  name,  na\i),  is  uncertain.     VirgU  deltas 
the  exercise  from  the  Trojan* ,  JEn.  lib.  Hi.  980. 

"  Actiaque  Iliads  celebramus  littora  ltidis." 


NAUPL1A.  431 

ches,  well  soaked  in  oil ;  in  other  respects   chap. 
*  bodies   were    stark-naked,    except   being    ^J^ 
oted  with  oil9,  and  rubbed  over  with  dust'. 
;ain  the  victory,  it  was  necessary  not  only 
one  of  the    combatants  should  throw  the 
r,  but  that,  having  thrown   him,  he  should 
able    to     keep   his   adversary    lying    upon 
back,  until    he,    the    conqueror,    regained 
feet;  for  in  the   struggle  they  always  fell 
ther4.     We    had    also   the    satisfaction    of 
lg    that  most    antient   military    dance   the  pyrrhica. 
rhica,  as  it  had   perhaps  existed  in   Greece 
i  the  time  of  its  introduction  by  the  Son  of 
illes,  or  by  the  Corybantes.     In  fact,  it  was  a 
rtan  dance,  and   therefore  peculiarly  appro- 
te  at  a  neighbouring  Nauplian  festival.     It 
isted    of    men    armed     with     sabres    and 
Ids,  who  came  forward  in  a  kind  of  broad- 
•d  exercise,  exhibiting  a   variety  of  martial 


"  Exercent  patrias  oleo  labente  palaestra* 

Nudati  socii." Ibid.  281. 

Vid.  Ovid.  Met.  be.  35.  Stat.  Theb.  ▼!.  846.  Lucian.  de  Oymn. 
).  Among  tbe  Antients,  the  dust  for  the  wrestlers  was  kept  in  a 
ular  place.  Plutarch.  Symp.  II.  Prob.  4.  p.  638.  C.  Vitruu.  V.  1 1. 
i£r'j  Notes  to  Bo*. 

The  same  rale,  according  to  Mr.  Thornton,  is  observed  in  other 
of  Turkey.  (See  T?,orntonfi  Turkey,  vol.  II.  p.  207.  Land.  1 800.) 
tient  wrestling,  the  prize  was  obtained  by  throwing  an  adversary 
times. 


432  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,    evolutions,  to  the  sound  of  Turkish  flutes.     Such 

VII.  > 

v^y*^  amusements  and  customs  are  never  likely  to  be 
discontinued  in  any  country,  so  long  as  any 
portion  of  the  original  inhabitants  remains: 
indeed  they  often  continue  to  exist  when  a  new 
race  has  succeeded  to  the  old  inhabitants ;  being 
adopted  by  their  successors1. 

Popoia-  The  population  of  NaupUa  consisted  of  two 
thousand  persons,  at  the  time  of  our  arrival. 
The  plague  had  raged  during  three  successive 
years,  and  had  carried  off  six  thousand  of  its 
inhabitants.  When  free  from  this  scourge,  it 
is  a    very    unhealthy    place,  the    people  being 

Bad  Air.  attacked  annually  with  a  malaria  fever.  The 
few  merchants  who  reside  here,  have  generally 
country  houses,  and  leave  the  town  in  the 
summer  months.  The  night  we  had  passed  in 
the  suburb  exposed  us  to  an  attack  of  this  kind ; 
the  author  having  caught  the  fever,  and  all  our 
party  being  in  a  certain  degree  affected  by  the 
unwholesome  air.  The  only  remedy  is  the  red 
Peruvian  bark  ;  but  it  must  be  administered  in 


(1 )  All  the  Invasions  and  conquests  to  which  our  island  has  been 
liable,  during  nineteen  centuries,  have  not  abolished  the  rites  of  the 
Muletoe;  and  some  of  the  games  of  the  earliest  inhabitants  of  Greet 
Britain  are  still  practised  in  the  country. 


NAUPLIA.  433 

very  powerful  doses,  A  traveller  in  Greece  chap. 
should  consider  this  medicine  as  absolutely  ^w 
necessary  to  his  existence,  and  never  journey 
unprovided*.  The  commerce  of  Nauplia  has  commerce. 
been  for  some  time  upon  the  decline.  The 
exports  are,  oil,  spunges,  and  wine.  Formerly, 
the  produce  of  the  Morea  for  exportation,  in  the 
first  of  these  articles  alone,  (and  almost  all  of  it 
went  from  Nauplia,)  amounted,  in  a  good  year,  to 
one  million  of  Turkish  quilots :  even  now,  if  the 
crops  have  not  been  deficient,  the  produce  of 
Corinth,  Misitra,  Nauplia,  Argos,  Sec.  is  sufficient 
for  the  freightage  of  twenty-five  vessels.  A 
barrel  of  fine  oil  sells  here  for  twenty-six  or 
twenty-eight  piastres;  each  barrel  containing 
forty-eight  okes.  The  other  exports  of  the  Morea, 
from  this  port,  are  Velani  acorns,  vermilion,  and 
wine,  of  which  a  great  quantity  is  made,  the 
soil  of  the  Peninsula  being  particularly  favour- 
able to  vineyards.  The  people  of  Nauplia  were 
early  renowned  for  the  cultivation  of  the  vine  : 
they  formerly  worshipped,  as  an  idol,  an  ass's 
head;    because    that  animal,  by   browsing   the 


(2)  Perhaps  the  arsenic  solution,  called  "  tasteless  ague  drops," 
might  prove  even  a  more  potent  remedy;  and  it  would  be  more 
portable,  owing  to  the  small  quantity  of  arsenic  necessary  in  its  prepa- 
ration. 

VOL.    VI.  F   F 


434  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  vines,  taught  them  the  art  of  pruning1.  Very 
excellent  oil  is  made  at  Mitylene,  whence  a 
considerable  quantity  comes  to  NaupUa  to  be 
exported.  They  receive  also  from  Misitra  forty 
or  fifty  thousand  okes  of  silk  ;  and  this  is  of  three 
sorts  or  qualities :  the  finest  is  called  (<tyl)  Op$6 ; 
the  second  sort,  Karatch  kemi  litchi;  and  the 
third,  Kassagico*.  There  is  perhaps,  no  place  in 
Greece  where  the  antient  medals  of  the  country 
may  be  purchased  in  greater  number,  or  found 
in  a  higher  state  of  perfection,  than  at  NaupUa. 
We  obtained  here  the  oldest  silver  medals  of 
Corinth,  of  Argos,  of  Dorium,  in  Messema,  and  of 
JEgxna.  Old  Roman  copper  coins  might  be  had, 
literally,  by  the  handful.  Silver  medals  of  the 
Achaian  League,  with  the  head  of  Jupiter,  lam- 

relied,  in  front,  and  the  monogram    J\.    on  the 

obverse  side,  were  very  common.  Upon  the 
oldest  Corinthian  silver,  the  head  of  Pallas  was 
represented,  within  an  indented  square;  or  the 


(1 )  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinthiac.  c.  38.  p.  20] .    Lip$.  1686. 

(2)  We  cannot  pretend  to  accuracy  in  writing  these  words;  they  are 
merely  an  adaptation  of  the  letters  of  our  alphabet  to  sounds,  as  they 
seemed  to  be  uttered.  The  Karatch  is  a  capitation-tax,  levied  upon 
Greeks  and  Jew* :  and  possibly  the  second  sort  of  sUk  may  be  the 
result  of  such  a  tax,  taken  in  kind. 


NAUPLIA.  435 

figure  of*  flying  Pegasus  with  the  wings  curved   chap 
towards  the  head,  and  beneath  the  animal  the  v-^>r^ 
Phoenician  letter  Q  Koph.     Some,  upon  their  ob- 
verse sides,  exhibited  only  the  indented  square, 
divided  into  four  parts,  with  a  grain  in  each. 

We  had  not  seen  any  Gipsies  since  we  leftGip^es. 
Russia;  but  we  found  this  people  in  Nauplia, 
under  the  name  they  bear  in  Moldavia,  of 
Tchinganehs.  How  they  came  hither,  no  one 
knew;  but  the  march  of  their  ancestors  from 
the  north  of  India  to  Europe,  so  lately  as  the 
beginning  of  the  fifteenth  century,  will  account 
for  their  not  being  found  farther  towards  the 
south  ;  and  this  is  now  so  well  ascertained,  that 
no  one  would  expect  to  meet  a  Gipsy  upon  any 
of  the  southern  shores  of  the  Mediterranean.  To 
have  found  them  in  the  Peloponnesus  is  rather 
remarkable,  considering  that  their  whole  tribe, 
at  the  first,  did  not  exceed  half  a  million ;  and 
this  number  has  subsequently  much  diminished. 
Their  progress  towards  this  peninsula  may  have 
been  through  Bulgaria,  Thrace,  and  the  other 
northern  parts  of  Greece,  from  Moldavia,  Transyl- 
vania, and  Wallachia,  where  they  are  numerous, 
and  find  employment  in  collecting  gold  from  the 
alluvial  deposit  of  the  rivers.  Through  the  same 
countries  they  may  have  reached  Asia  Minor ; 

f  f  2 


VII. 


436  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  but  we  believe  the  Morea  to  be  the  utmost 
extent  of  their  journey  towards  the  south,  since 
the  period  of  their  first  migration1. 

The  streets  of  Nauplia  are  as  they  probably 
existed  in  the  time  of  Pausanias ;  narrow,  dark, 
and  dirty.  It  is  mentioned  both  by  Xenophon* 
and  by  Euripides?;  but  its  antient  name  of 
Nauplia  is  now  corrupted  by  the  Italians  into 
Napoli  di  Romania.  The  high  and  abrupt  moan- 
tain  upon  which  the  Acropolis  is  situate,  still 
retains  the  name  of  the  hero  Palamedes,  son  of 
Nauplius,  in  the  appellation  Palamedi.  There  is 
nothing  remarkable  in  the  town  itself,  excepting 
its  situation ;  and  this,  like  the  site  of  many 
other  Grecian  cities,  borrows  from  Nature  some 
of  her  grandest  features,  each  disposition  of 
them  being  at  the  same  time  distinguished  by 
something  peculiar    to   itself.     Athens,    Argos, 


(1)  Beaujour  mentions  them  as  forming  part  of  the  population  of 
Salonica,  under  the  name  of  Tchinghbnais.  Tableau  de  la  Commu 
de  la  Grece,  torn.  I.  p.  53.  Paris,  1800.  It  is  said  they  are  also  seen  in 
Spain. 

(2)  Xenophont.  Hellenic.  lib.  ir.  Annot.  Forst.  in  Strabon.  lib.  ix. 
p.  585.    ed.  Oxon. 

(8)  Euripides  in  Oreste,  ver.  53.     Ibid. 

"Hcci  yap  tig  yfjv  McviXcwc  Tpotag  awo, 
Aiukva  $k  NatnrXtttov  UirXtipuv  w\dry9 
'Acraiffty  oputi. 


N  A  U  P  L  I  A.  437 

Nauplia,  Corinth,  and  many  more,  had  each  their  chap. 
lofty  citadel,  with  its  dependent  burgh,  and  fer-  s^v^/ 
tile  plain :  in  this  they  resembled  each  other  ;  ^riaic 
but  in  certain  characteristics  they  all  differ.  ofGr£L» 
Athens  appears  as  a  forsaken  habitation  ofCities* 
holiness:  for  a  moment,  unmindful  of  the  de- 
grading character  of  its  Divinities,  the  spectator 
views  with  a  degree  of  awe  its  elevated  shrines, 
surrounded  on  every  side  by  a  mountain  barrier, 
inclosing  the  whole  district  as  within  one  conse- 
crated Peribolus.  Argos,  with  less  of  a  priestly 
character,  but  equal  in  dignity,  sits  enthroned 
as  the  mistress  of  the  seas  :  facing  the  sun's 
most  powerful  beams,  she  spreads  her  flowery 
terraces,  on  either  side,  before  the  lucid  bosom 
of  the  waters  in  regal  majesty.  Nauplia, 
stretching  out  upon  a  narrow  tongue  of  land,  and 
commanded  by  impregnable  heights,  rich  in  the 
possession  of  her  port,  "  the  most  secure  and 
best  defended  in  the  Morea\"  but  depending 
always  upon  Argos  for  supplies,  was  fitted,  by 
every  circumstance  of  natural  form,  to  become 
a  mercantile  city,  and  the  mart  of  Grecian  com- 
merce. Corinth,  the  Gibraltar  of  the  Pelopon- 
nesus, by  its  very  nature  a  fortress,  is  marked 
by  every  facility  that  may  conduce  to  military 

(4)  Chandler's  Travels  in  Greece,  p.  227.     Oxf.  1 776. 


438 


PELOPONNESUS. 


chap,  operations,  or  render  it  conspicuous  for  its  war- 
like aspect.  In  every  part  of  Greece  there  is 
something  naturally  appropriate  to  the  genius 
and  the  history  of  the  place ;  as  in  the  bubbling 
fountains  and  groves  of  Epidauria,  sacred  to 
JEsculapins ;  the  pastoral  scenes  of  Arcadia, 
dedicated  to  the  Muses  and  to  Pan ;  the  hollow 
rocks  of  Phocis,  echoing  to  Pythian  oracles; 
and  perhaps  the  custom  of  making  offerings  to 
all  the  Gods,  upon  the  summits  of  Olympus  and 
Parnassus,  did  not  so  much  originate  in  any 
Eastern  practice,  as  in  the  peculiar  facility 
wherewith  the  eye  commanded  from  those 
eminences  almost  every  seat  of  sanctity  in 
Greece1. 


(1)  The  old  Grecian  custom  of  uttering  the  K^pu  IXiqaov  ("Lord 
have  mercy  upon  us  /")  and  making  sign  of  reverence  upon  coming  in 
sight  of  any  place  of  worship,  is  still  retained  among  Greek  Christians 
but  particularly  in  Russia:    the  Russians   use  the  same  expression 
literally  translated,  '<  Ghospodi  Pomilui!"    As  the  practice  enjoined 
reference  to  every  particular  shrine,  it  must  necessarily  become  • 
general  homage  to  all  the  Divinities,  when  temples  belonging  to  all 
the  Gods  were  rendered  visible  at  the  same  time,  in  the  tame  manner 
as  our  Churches  become  conspicuous  to  the  common  people,  who,  in 
every  Christian  country,  frequently  employ  themselves  in  counting 
them  from  the  tops  of  their    hills.    Perhaps  this  may  explain  the 
beginning  of  those  offerings  to  all  the  Gods  which  were  made  by  the 
Antient  Greeks  upon  the  summits  of  their  mountains ;  rather  than  tb« 
ridiculous  notion  of  being  nearer  to  their  Divinities*    The  first  temples 
were  tombs;  and  these  were  not  upon  the  tops  of  mountains,  but  in  tb« 

plain* 


NAUPLIA   TO   T1RYNS.  439 

On  Wednesday,  November  the  ninth,  we  left   chap. 
Nauplia,  accompanied  by  the  two  sons  of  Mr.  v^v^s 
Dalmar,  to  visit  the  remains  of  Tiryns8,  and 
thence  proceed  to  Argos,  Mycencs,  and  Nemka, 
in  our  way  to  Sicyon  and,  Corinth.     The  lofty 
Citadel  of  Palamedi  towered  above  us,  on  our 
right  hand.      We  passed  several  gardens,  and 
some  pleasing  kiosks,  or  summer-houses,  situate 
near  the  town.     The  walls  of  Tiryns  are   not  Tiryns. 
more  than  an  English  mile  and  a  half  distant 
from  Nauplia ;  or  half  an  hour,  according  to  the 
Turkish  mode  of  reckoning*.     The  sight  of  them, 
in  a  moment,  carried  our  reflections  back  to  the 


plains  below,  near  to  the  cities  and  public  roads :  therefore,  by  going 
to  the  summits  of  mountains,  they,  in  fact,  went  farther  from  their 
Gods.  This  suggestion  is,  however,  only  made  with  reference  to 
Eotytheism,  and  to  the  nature  of  the  offering :  the  worshippers  of  one 
Cod,  as  we  learn  from  Herodotus,  with  regard  to  the  Persians,  who 
built  no  temples,  chose  the  tops  of  the  highest  hills  and  mountains  for 
their  places  of  worship.  (Herodot.  Hist.  lib.  i.)  Strabo  also  observes 
of  them,  that  they  had  neither  images  nor  altars,  but  paid  their 
adoration  upon  some  high  place.  (Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  xv.)  Cyrus 
having  had  a  dream,  forewarning  him  of  his  approaching  death, 
sacrificed  upon  the  summit  of  a  mountain.  (  Vid.  Xenophon.  lib.  viii.) 
The  inhabitants  of  Pontus  and  Cappadocia  practised  the  same  kind  of 
worship.    (Appian.  lib.  de  BeUo  Mithrid.  p.  366.) 

(2)  M ird  8k  AaxtBaiuova  w6Xic  *<rriv*APr02,  ko!  Iv  airy  NAYHAIA 
t4Xic,  Kai  \iur,v.  'Ev  utaoyita  Si  KAEQNAI,  Kal  MTKHNAI,  xal 
TIPTN6A.    Scylaeis  Caryandensis  Periplus,p.  43.    L.  Bat.  1697. 

(3)  See  GtlVs  Itinerary  of  Greece.     Lond.  1810. 


440  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  most  distant  ages  of  history1:  we  seemed,  in  fact, 

v^v^z  to  be  once  more  among  the  Ruins  of  Memphis. 

The  coming  of  an  Egyptian  colony  to  this  part 

of  Peloponnesus,  about  fifteen  centuries   before 

our    sera,  i3  a  fact    attested    by    the    highest 

(Mb md  authority  of  written   testimony*;    but  there  is 

Archu^  something  in  the  style  of  the  architecture  here, 

lure*        which,  when  compared  with  other  remains  of 

a  similar  nature,  and  added  to  a  few  historical 

facts,  seems  rather  to  prove  it  of  Celtic,  than  of 

Egyptian  origin.     We  purposely  avoid  entering 

into  any  detailed  description  of  the  dimensions 

of  this  gigantic  building,  because  a  most  faithful 

delineator  has  already  anticipated  whatever  we 

might  have  said  upon  the  subject.     To  his  work 

we  must  therefore  refer  the   Reader8;   merely 


(1)  It  is  said,  by  Strabo,  Pausanias,  and  other  historians,  that  the 
walls  of  Tiryiw  were  built  by  the  Cyclop*,  the  same  persons  to  whom 
Strabo  ascribes  the  origin  of  the  Nauplian  Covet.    Of  the  Cyciopt 
nothing  certain  is  known.    They  were  supposed  to  be  the  sons  of  Ccrius 
and  Terra ;   and  this  notion  is  enough  to  prove  that  all  concerning 
their  history  is  involved  in  fable.    There  were  no  less  than  three  distinct 
races  of  men  who  bore  this  appellation.    (Fid.  Cataubon.  Annot.  n 
Strabon.  lib.  viii.)    Some  allusion  to  the  builders  of  Tiryns  will  be 
again  introduced,  in  the  next  Chapter. 

(2)  A*   OY    NAYS    HEKTHKONTA    KQHQN    E£    AirYHTOY 
EIS  THN  BAAAAA  EHAEYZE,  c.  r.  X. 

Vid.  Chronicon  ex  M armor.  Arundel.  Epoch,  ix. 

(3)  See  GelUi  Itinerary  of  Greece,  pp.  54, 66, 50,  57,  58.     Plates  xr. 
xv i.  xvii.    Lend.  1810. 


TIRYNS.  441 

stating  of  the  walls  of  Tiryns,   that,   with   the    chap. 
exception    of    the    interior    structure    of     the   ^,^> 
Pyramids  of  Egypt*  a  more  marvellous  result  of 
human  labour  has  not  been  found  upon  earth. 
The  Celts  have  left  in  Great  Britain  a  surprising 
specimen   of    the    Cychpian  style  in  architec- 
ture :  and  it  may  be  said    of  their   temple  at 
Stonehenge,    that    it  has    all   the   marks   of   a 
Phoenician  building4:  hence  a  conclusion  might 
be    deduced,    that    the    Celts    were   originally 
Phoenicians,  or  that  they  have  left  in  Phcenice 
monuments  of  their  former   residence   in   that  0ri*in  of 
country.     If  it  be  asked,  in  what  region   of  the  ptan  style. 


(4)  Stonehenge  might  be  considered  as  a  Phoenician  building,  from  its 

resemblance  to  the  style  of  the  architecture  observed  upon  the  eastern 

shores  of  the  Mediterranean,  added  to  the  knowledge  we  have  of 

Phoenician  settlements  upon  our  south-western  coasts :  but  the  same 

kind  of  building  exists  in  the  northern  parts  of  our  island,  and  in 

Ireland,  and  may  be  noticed  over  all  the  territories  of  the  Belgce  and 

Ctmbri.    Having  accidentally  alluded  to  this  remarkable  structure,  it 

would  be  worse  than  mere  omission  to  avoid  noticing  an  observation 

concerning  it  by  that  learned  antiquary  R.  P.  Knight,  Esq.  as  founded 

apon  a  fragment  of  the  writings  of  Hecatjeus.     "  From  a  passage  of 

Bseateeus,  preserved  by  Diodorus  Siculus,  1  think  it  is  evident  that 

Stonehenge,  and  all  the  other  monuments  of  the  same  kind  found  in  the 

Korth,  belonged  to  the  same  religion  which  appears,  at  some  remote 

period,  to   have    prevailed    over   the  whole    Northern   hemisphere. 

According  to  the  same  historian,  the  Hyperboreans  inhabited  an  island 

fcyoad  Qaul,  as  large  as  Sicily,  in  which  Apollo  was  worshipped  in  a 

circular  temple,  considerable  for  its  size  and  riches." 


442  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  globe  a  taste  originated  for  the  kind  of  arehi- 
\^-v^s  tecture  termed,  by  the  Greeks,  Cyclop6anl9  per- 
haps the  answer  may  be,  that  it  was  cradled 
in  the  caves  of  India ;  for  many  of  these,  either 
partly  natural,  or  wholly  artificial,  whether 
originally  sepulchres,  temples,  or  habitations, 
it  matters  not,  are  actually  existing  archetypes 
of  a  style  of  building  yet  recognised  over  all 
the  western  world,  even  to  the  borders  of  the 
Atlantic  ocean  :  and  the  traveller  who  is  accus- 
tomed to  view  these  Cyclopian  labours,  however 
differing  in  their  ages,  beholds  in  them,  as  it 
were,  a  series  of  family  resemblances,  equally 
conspicuous  in  the  caverns  of  JElephanta,  the 
ruins  of  Persepolis,  the  sepulchres  of  Syria  and 
of  Asia  Minor j  the  remains  of  the  most  antient 
cities  in  Greece  and  Italy,  such  as  Tiryns  and 
Qrotona,  and  the  more  northern  monuments  of 
the  Celts,  as  in  the  temples  called  JDruidical; 
especially  that  of  Stonehenge,  in  the  south  of 
History  of  England.  The  destruction  of  Tiryns  is  of  such 
ynM'  remote  antiquity,  that  its  walls  existed,  nearly 
as  they  do  at  present,  in  the  earliest  periods  of 
Grecian  history.     JElian  says  its  inhabitants  fed 


(1)  See  a  former  Note,  opou  the  application  of  this  term  among  the 
Greek  writers. 


TIRYNS.  443 

upon  wild  jigs*,  and  the  Arcadians  upon  acorns*,    chap. 

The  Argives  laid  waste  the  city,  and  removed 

its  inhabitants  to  their  own  capital.     Pausanias, 

by  whom  this  is   mentioned4,    makes  frequent 

allusion  to  its  marvellous  walls?,  considered  by 

him  not  less  entitled  than  the  Pyramids  of  Egypt 

to  rank  among  the  wonders  of  the  antient  world6. 

The  prodigious   masses  of   which  they  consist 

were  put   together  without  cement ;  and   they 

are  likely  to  brave  the  attacks  of  time  through 

ages   even  more    numerous   than  those  which 

have    already   elapsed    since   they   were  built. 

Owing  to  its  walls,  the  city  is  celebrated  in  the 

poems  of  Homer1;  and  the  satisfaction  of  seeing 

an  example  of  the  military  architecture   of  the 


(9)  This  it  rather  an  argument  for  their  JESgyptian  origin  ;  for 
by  the  wUd  Jig  if  probably  intended  the  Fiat*  Sycamorus,  the  fruit 
of  which  it  still  eaten  in  Egypt.  We  did  not,  however,  notice  this 
tree  in  Greece. 

(3)  JEUan.  Hist  Var.  lib.  iii.  c.  39. 

(4)  'Avkcrtiaav  $i  Kai  TipwOiovc  'Apyi lot,  ovvoLkouq  wpoaXafitiv,  *al 
ro'Apyog  IwavlriGai  OtXrivavriQ.  Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  26.  p.  100. 
I4p#.  1096. 

(5)  Vid.  Pauean.  in  Achate,  c.  25.  p.  689.  in  Baotic.  c.  86.  p.  788,  &c. 
Lip*.  1896. 

(6)  Td  rtixv  r&  iv  TlpvvOt  obtik  Iwifipax*  Ijyayov  pyqpifg,  ovtl  hvra 
IX&rrovoc  Oavparoc.    Ibid.  p.  783.    Bceotic.  c.  36.    Lips.  1096. 

(7)  0*  8*  "Apyog  r9  tlxov,  TipvvOd  rt  rux^oitrtrav. 

Iliad.  /3.  ver.  650. 


444  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,   heroic  ages,  as  it  was  beheld  by  him,  is  perhaps 
*~~^s  only  granted    to   the    moderns  in    this  single 
instance.     They  have  remained  nearly  in  their 
present  state   above  three  thousand  years.     It 
is  believed  that  they  were  erected  long  before 
the   Trojan  war  :  as  to  the  precise  period,  chro- 
nologists  are  so  little  agreed  with  regard   even 
to  the  arrival  of  the  Phoenician  and  Egyptian 
colonies  under   Cadmus  and  Z>anau$,  that  a  dif- 
ference of  at  least  a  century  may  be  observed 
in  their  calculations1.      The  celebrity  of  their 
Citadel  is  almost  all  that  is  now  known  of  the 
5ST»    Tirynthians,   excepting  their  natural  tendency 
ryntMant.  to  j^jp^   an(j  frivolity.     If  we  may  rely  upon 

an  anecdote  cited  by  the  AbbS  Barthelemy*  from 
Athencmf,  in  their  characteristic  disposition 
they  were  nearly  allied  to  the  Parisians  of  the 
present  day ;  and,    for  want  of  a  better  argu- 


(1)  The  Editor  of  the  Chronicle  improperly  called  Parian  (which 
we  stated  to  have  been  found  in  Ceos)  dates  the  coming  of  Cadmus  to 
Thebes  1519  years  before  Christ :  but  he  adds,  in  a  Note,  "  IHodorut 
and  Eusebius  make  Danaus  go  Into  Greece,  before  Cadmus  went  fn 
search  of  Europa.  DiocL  Sic.  lib.  v.  p.  339.  Oar  chronologer  places 
Cadmus  eight  years  before  Danaus.**  (See  p.  25.  Lond.  1788.)  Others 
date  the  arriral  of  Cadmus  1493  before  Christ. 

(2)  Voyage  da  Jeune  Anacharsis,  torn.  i?.  p.  349.     Paaris,  790. 

(3)  Theophrastus  ap.  A  then.  lib.  vl.  c.  17.  p.  261.    Lugd.  1657. 
Eustath.  in  Odyss.  lib.  xviii.  p.  1839.  lln.  47. 


TIRYN8. 


445 


ment,  the  Members  of   the   French  Academy   chap. 
may  recur  to  the  story,  in  support  of  a  very 
probable  truth ;    namely,  that  the   Tirynthians 
and  the  Gauls  were  only  earlier  and  later  scions 
of  the  same  Indio- European  stock.     Such  was 
their  remarkable  levity,  that  the  most  serious 
and   important  concerns   served    among  them 
merely  to  give  a  turn  to  a  bon-mot.     At  last 
even  fun  became  a  bore ;  and  they  applied  to 
the  Oracle  of  Delphi,  to  be  delivered  from  the 
ennui  of  its  perpetual  recurrence.     The  answer 
of  the  Oracle  put  them  to  a  trial,  which  only 
served   to   render   their  natural  character    the 
more  conspicuous :  it  promised  relief,  upon  con- 
dition,  that,   after   having  gravely  sacrificed  a 
bull  to  Neptune,  they  should  as  gravely  cast  it 
into  the  sea.     For  this  purpose  the   Tirynthians 
assembled    upon    the  shore  ;    taking    especial 
care  to  prevent  the  juvenile  members  of  their 
society  from    being   present   at   the  solemnity. 
A  young  pickle,  however,  made  his  way  into 
the  crowd  ;    and  finding  they  were  eager  to  drive 
him  from  the  ceremony,  exclaimed,   "Are  ye 
then  afraid  lest  I  should  swallow  your  bull  ?"*  The 


(4)  Thai  rendered  by  Barthelemy.  The  words  in  the  original,  how- 
ever, are,  Ti  ^qr*,  fyt),  didoucart  /*»)  rbv  afayiov  v/awp  avarptyv, 
Athenmi  Deipnotoph.  lib.  vi.  c.  17.  p.  261 .    Lugd.  1657. 


446  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  words  were  no  sooner  uttered,  than  a  general 
roar  of  laughter  burst  from  the  whole  assembly; 
and  being  thus  persuaded  of  their  incurable  dis- 
position, they  submitted  to  their  destiny. 


PBL0P0N.VBSD8. 


Further  inquiry  into  the  Origin  o/*Tiryns — Road 
to  Argos — River  Inacbus — Plants  and  Mine- 
rals— Argos — Terra-cotta  Vases — Ignorance 
of  their  sepulchral  use  —  Hecate's  Supper  — 
Lectisternium  —  Probable  cause  of  depositing 
Earthen  Vessels  in  Sepulchres — Origin  of  the 
custom — Population  of  Argos — Antiquities  — 
Theatre— Hieron  of  Venus — Diras— Cyclopea 
— Alcyonian  Lake — Oracular  Shrine — Other 
remains  of  the  city — Character  of  the  antient 
Argives — View  of  the  Argive  Plain — Fabulous 
Contest 


448  PELOPONNESUS. 

Contest  between  Neptune  and  Juno — Hieron  of 
Ceres  My  sias — A  ntiquity  of  fictile  materials  in 
building — Mycenae — State  of  the  Ruins — Ex- 
traordinary Sepulchre  —  not  the  treasury  of 
Atreus — Heroum  of  Perseus  —  Sophocles  — 
internal  evidence  of  his  having  visited  the  spot — 
of  the  Aw/ia  and  TlpowvXala — Tomb  of  Aga- 
memnon— Interior  of  the  Tumulus — Enormous 
lintel— Use  of  the  triangular  cavity  above  the 
entrance  —  Inner  chamber  —  Leonine  Gate — 
Dimensions  and  description  of  the  Propylsea— 
Mythological  Symbols — Consecrated  Orates — 
Of  the  Pylagorae — ^Egyptian  characteristics — 
Worship  of  the  Sun — Walls  of  Mycenae. 

via/    J- he   advocates   for   the  early  origin   of  "  the 
^T**  pointed  style"  in   Gothic  architecture  will  have 

Farther       *  J 

inquiry  cause  enough  for  triumph  in  the  Cyclopean 
origin  of  Gallery  at  Tiryns  ;  exhibiting  "  lancet  arches" 
almost  as  ancient  as  the  time  of  Abraham1 :  and 
if  the  learned  Pezron  have  not  erred  in  his 
history  of  the  Gauls,  the  Citadel  itself  may  be 
considered  as  a  Celtic  structure2.  Be  this  as  it 
may,  the  subject  is  certainly  curious;  and   if  it 


(1)  The  author  would  have  accompanied  this  by  an  engraving,  but 
it  has  been  superseded  by  Sir  W.  GelVs  most  accurate  representation 
of  the  Gallery  at  Tiryiu,  as  published  in  his  Work,  to  which  the  Reader 
is  particularly  referred.  (See  GelVs  Itinerary  of  Greece,  Plate  xyL 
p.  56.     Lond.  1810.) 

(2)  See  a  most  ingenious  Dissertation  on  the  "  Antiquities  of 
Nations,"  by  Paul  Pezron.    Lond.  1800. 


TIRYNS.  449 

serve  only  as  an  amusing  topic  of  research,  will  chap. 
perhaps  be  gratifying  to  the  studious  Reader. 
In  tracing  the  march  of  the  Celtce  out  of  the 
regions  of  Upper  Asia,  he  brings  a  colony, 
under  the  name  of  Titans,  from  Phrygia  into 
Peloponnesus,  some  years  before  the  death  of 
the  patriarch  Abraham*.  These  men,  owing  to 
their  astonishing  power  and  prowess,  and  the 
mighty  works  whereby  they  became  signalized, 
he  believes  to  have  been  the  Giants  and  Titans 
of  the  Septuagint  version  of  Isaiah*  and  of 
Judith5 ;  men  who  became  afterwards  the  omni- 
potent and  sovereign  gods  of  Greece  and  Rome ; 
owing  to  a  common  practice  among  the 
Antients,  of  deifying  their  deceased  monarchs. 
He  finds,  moreover,  the  names  of  all  their 
Princes  in  the  Celtic  language6.  In  a  work  of 
this  kind,  we  must  leave  such  profound  re- 
searches to  the  investigation  of  antiquaries  and 
philologists.     Let   us  only  see,    with  reference 


(3)  ''I  have  shewn,  in  treating  of  those  princes  who  ruled  over  the 
Titans,  that  they  were  the  contemporaries  of  Abrahim,  and  even  of 
bit  father  Terah."  Pezron's  Antiq.  of  Nations,  p.  185.  Land.  1809. 
Set  also  p  83. 

(4)  rlyavrig  ol  aglavriQ  ti)q  yjfc.     Isaiah,  xiv.  9. 

(5)  Judith,  lib.  vi.  ver.  0,  and  7.     vioi  Tiravwv. 

(6)  Pezrons  Antiq.  of  Nations.      Pref.  p.  x?iii.      Also  B.  1.  c.  14. 
p.  111.    B.  II.  c.  1.  p.  185,  kc.    Land.  1809. 

VOL.  VI.  G    O 


450  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  to  Tiryns  (concerning  whose  origin  any  sound 
information  is  as  light  shining  in  darkness), 
whether  there  be  any  thing  connected  with  its 
history  likely  to  corroborate  Pezroris  opinion. 
All  the  writers  by  whom  its  builders  are  men- 
tioned, attribute  its  architecture  to  the  identical 
race  he  has  mentioned ;  that  is  to  say,  to  the 
Giants,  under  a  different  appellation  of  Cyclops : 
and  this  name  was  bestowed  upon  them  in 
consequence  of  a  custom  which  any  Celtic 
helmet  would  illustrate,  namely,  that  of  having 
only  one  aperture  for  sight,  in  the  middle  of 
the  visor.  They  came  also  from  the  country 
whence  Pezron  deduces  his  Titan  colony  ;  from 
the  southern  provinces  of  Phrygia  Magna, 
Caria,  and  Lycia1.  In  the  next  place  occurs  a 
circumstance  of  a  more  decisive  nature,  cal- 
culated to  confirm  the  observations  of  that 
author  in  a  very  striking  manner ;  although  by 
him  unnoticed.  It  is  found  in  an  antient  name 
of  the  Inachtis,  flowing  between  Tiryns  and  Argos. 


(1)  "  Casaubonus,  ex  Apollodoro,  Cyclopas  in  Lycia  invenit,  et  eoi 
in  Grsecia  regnante  Jobates  habitasse  ait.  Jobates  Bellerophonti  fait 
cotevus,  qui  tertia  eetate  ante  bellum  Trojanum  extitit.  Quo  tempore 
Tiryns  forsan  fuit  condita.  Strabo  Kdpac  quosdam  ad  Epidaurum 
due  it.  Caria  Lycise  proxima  est,  ergo  Cyclopes  Lycii  cum  colonia 
Carum  forsan  TirynfAem  advenerunt,"  Vid.  Annot.  in  Sirabon.Geog. 
/tt.viii.  p.  540.  edm  Oxon.  1807. 


VIIK 


T11TSS.  4$\ 

This  river  was  called  Hauachos,  from 
person  who  is  mentioned  by  Plmtarci*  as  of 
Tvyntkian  race,  bat  bearing,  in  fact,  the  same 
name  as  the  father  of  Uranus,  by  whom  the 
Titan-Celts  were  conducted  into  Peloponnesus'. 
His  name  was  Acmox  ;  but  SamcAomiatkon,  who 
wrote,  as  it  is  believed,  his  history  of  Pfutnice 
before  the  Trojan  war,  plainly  intimates  that 
this  prince  was  styled,  in  the  language  of  that 
country,  Euon  (Most-high),  answering  to  the 
Greek  title  inFISTOS,  altissimus*.  In  Phryyia 
there  was  a  town  called  Acmonia* ;  and  one  of 
the  Cyclops  had  the  name  of  Acmomdes*.  Hence 
it  should  seem  evident  that  the  1\  tan- Celt <z 
were  of  the  same  race  as  the  Cyclops,  who  con- 
structed the  Tirynthian  Citadel;  and,  conse- 
quently, that  the  walls  of  Tiryns  are  of  Celtic 
original. 


(J)  "lva%0£  rdrafiSs  tori  rfc  'Apytiac  X"PaC*  IsaXtlro  ti  rA 
wportgov  Kapfiavvp.  'AXiaxfiov  &  rifyiva  TipvvOiog,  Iv  rtp  KoKKvyiy 
W0*ftaiv*r  Spec*  cat  Kar  ayvouxw  rf  'Peat  avyyivofuvov  rijc  Afa  0ia- 
mmptvoQ*  ippav*i{:  eyevcro,  Kal  fitO*  bpptjc  Ivcgdiig,  SflaXtv  iavrop  *t'c 
worapdv  Kapfidvopa,  og  air*  avrov  'AAIAKMQX  fartuvofiatrBri. 
Phctareh.  de  Fluviit,  pp.  58, 59.     Tolosce,  1615. 

(9)  See  Pexron's  "  Antiquities  of  Nation*,"  a  1.  c.  0.  p.  01.  Lond. 
1800. 

(4)  Sancho*.  apud  Euseb.  Prop.  Evangel,  lib.  i.  c.10. 

(5)  Step,  Byzantin.  Ac  mow  i  a. 
(0)  Ovid.  Fast.  IV.  t.  288. 

G    G    2 


452  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.  We  crossed  the  Inachus  at  its  junction 
>^  with  the  Charadrus,  in  our  road  from  Tiryns 
Argot.  to  Argos.  The  distance  is  about  six  English 
miles.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  magnificence 
of  the  scenery  all  around  the  Gulph ;  and 
it  cannot  be  necessary  to  enumerate  the  inter- 
esting recollections  that  serve  to  render  it  still 
more  impressive.  In  this  ride  from  Tiryns  to 
Argos,  the  prospect  is  particularly  striking: 
the  antient  Capital,  even  in  its  state  of  wretch- 
edness, with  scarcely  a  wreck  remaining,  has 
still  an  appearance  which  is,  in  every  sense  of 
the  term,  imposing.  It  leads  the  traveller  to 
believe  that  he  shall  find,  upon  his  arrival,  the 
most  ample  traces  of  its  pristine  greatness. 
This  is  principally  owing  to  a  cause  already 
assigned ;  to  the  prodigious  contribution  made 
by  the  geological  features  of  the  country,  in  the 
plans  of  Grecian  cities ;  where  Nature  has 
herself  supplied,  upon  a  most  stupendous 
scale,  what  Art  would  otherwise  more  humbly 
have  contrived.  In  various  parts  of  Greece, 
where  the  labours  of  man  have  been  swept 
away, —  where  time,  barbarians,  nay,  even 
earthquakes,  and  every  other  moral  and  phy- 
sical revolution,  have  done  their  work,  an 
eternal  city  seems  still  to  survive;  because  the 
Acropolis,  the  Stadium,  the  Theatre,  the  Sepul- 


TIRYNS   TO   ARGOS. 


453 


chres,  the  Shrines,  and  the  votive  receptacles,  are    chap. 
so  many  "  sure  and  firm-set"   rocks ;    slightly  n^v^ 
modified,  indeed,  by  the  hand  of  man,  but  upon 
which  the  blast  of  desolation    passes   like  the 
breath  of  a  zephyr.      Argos  is  conspicuous  in 
this  class  of  cities :  and  if,  in  the  approach  to  it 
from  Tiryns,  where  Art  seems  to  have  rivalled 
Nature  in   the   eternity   of  her   existence,   the 
view  be  directed  towards  the  sea,  a  similar  and 
not   less   striking   object    is   presented,   in   the 
everlasting  Citadel  of  Nauplia.     The  Inachus,  TheRiw 
separating   the   two    capitals  of   Acrisius    and 
Prcetus,  is  now,  as  it  was  formerly,  a  wide,  but 
shallow   water-course,  sometimes   entirely   dry. 
It  was  dry  when  we  passed.     Callimachus  men- 
tions its  beautiful   waters1.     On  account  of  its 
periodical  exsiccation,  it  has  been  considered  by 
travellers  as  having  been  the  subject  of  a  greater 
alteration  than  it  has  really  sustained.     Antient 
stories,  it  is  true,  pretended  that  it  was  once 
remarkable  for  suicides,  committed  by  persons 
who  had  precipitated  themselves  into  its  flood2: 
but  these  events  might  happen  in  an  occasional 
torrent,    as    well    as    in    a    perennial     river3. 


(1)  See  the  Hymn  of  Callimachus  upon  the  Baths  of  Pallas. 
(9)  Yid.  Plutarch,  de  Fluviis,  pp.  58,  50.     Tolosa,  1615. 
(9)  "  Most  of  the  Grecian  streams  are  winter  torrents,  and  dry  in 
the  Minmer."    Squire's  MS.  Correspondence. 


454  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.  A  circumstance  related  by  Agathocles  the 
\^v^  Milesian,  and  cited  from  his  writings  by 
Plutarch1,  in  his  description  of  the  Inachus,  may 
prove  that  the  state  of  the  river  now  does  not 
differ  from  its  antient  condition.  Agathocles 
maintained,  that,  being  thunderstruck  by 
Jupiter,  it  became  dry  in  consequence  of  the 
heat9.  Strabo's  description  of  it  is  applicable 
to  a  water-course,  rather  than  to  a  flowing 
river3.  Plutarch  has  stated  a  few  observations 
connected  with  its  natural  history,  which  our 
time  did  not  enable  us  to  verify.  Speaking 
pianu  and  of  its  plants  and  minerals,  he  says,  that  the  herb 
Cyura  grew  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  cele- 
brated for  its  properties  in  assisting  parturi- 
tion: it  resembled  Peganum4 ;  and  this  word 
the  Latin  translator  of  Plutarch  has  rendered 
by  Ruta ;  perhaps  from  the  extraordinary 
virtues  ascribed  universally  to  Rue,  which 
caused  it  to  receive,  at  an  early  period  in  our 
country,  the  name  of  "  Herb  of  gracrf"  Hue 
has    been    celebrated   as    an    antidote    against 


(1)  Plutarch,  de  Flu?,  ut  supr&,  p.  60. 

(2)  Atd  iravovpyiav  vrb  rov  &i6q  KtpavwQkpra,  irjpdv  yt*k<r9au 
Ibid. 

(3)  XapatpvStjc  icorapSc.    Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  viii.  p.  537.     Ed. 
Oxon. 

(4)  Urjydvtft  irpoffo/joto?.     Ibid. 

(5) "  there's  Rub  for  you ; — here's  some  for  me  ;— we  may  call  it 

Herb  of  grace  o'Sundayt."  Shak*jH*rt's  Hamlet. 


TIRYNS    TO    ARGOS.  455 

poison,  pestilence,  and  the  devil ;  being  used  chap 
in  exorcisms,  and  extolled  and  recommended  by 
almost  all  medical  writers,  from  Hippocrates  to 
Boerhaave.  But  the  herb  called  Peganum  by 
Theopkrastus  and  Dioseorides  differs  from  Huta6. 
The  plant  mentioned  by  Plutarch  remains 
therefore  to  be  ascertained  ;  because,  as  fPvr?i 
was  the  more  antient  name,  particularly  in 
Peloponnesus7,  and  tlnyavov  the  more  modern,  it 
may  be  supposed  that  Plutarch  would  have 
bestowed  the  former  appellation  upon  it,  if  it  had 
been  applicable.  The  same  author  mentions  also 
the  herb  Selene,  producing  a  species  of  foam 
(o^P&c),  which  the  peasants  collected  in  the 
beginning  of  summer,  and  applied  to  their  feet, 
as  an  antidote  against  the  venom  of  reptiles8. 
Its  minerals  were,  the  Beryll9,  and  a  stone 
called  corybas10,  of  a  raven  colour,  used  as  a 
charm  against  fearful  dreams.  The  latter  was 
probably  nothing  more  than  the  dark  fetid 
limestone,  to  which  imaginary  virtues  are  still 


(6)  "  As  Cblistrus  from  Euonymus."    See  Martyris  Edit,  of 
Miller,  vol  II.  Part  1.    Lond.  1807. 

(7)  Ibid.    Vol.11.  Part  2. 

(S)  Plutarch,  de  Fluv.  p.  02.     Tolas.  1015. 

(9)  Ibid.  p.  60. 

(10)  Ibid.  p.  64. 


456  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,   ascribed  in  the  East:    we  found  it  among  the 
inn. 

most    antient     amulets    in    the    catacombs    of 

Saccara  in  Egypt.  With  regard  to  the  former, 
it  is  exceedingly  difficult  at  this  time  to  deter- 
mine the  particular  stone  called  Beryll  by  the 
Antients.  We  learn  from  Epiphanius,  that  it 
was  of  a  yellow  colour1,  and  found  near  Mount 
Taurus.  But  there  were  other  varieties  of 
Beryll ;  one  resembling  the  pupil  of  a  serpent's 
eye* ;  another  like  wax>  found  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Euphrates'.  Hence  it  is  evident  that 
different  minerals  bore  this  name  among  the 
Antients :  the  first  variety  may  have  been  our 
Topaz;  the  second  and  third  were,  in  all 
probability,  different  appearances  of  Chalcedony. 
Theophrastus  does  not  mention  the  Beryll; 
and  in  Pliny's  account  of  the  stone,  fifty  different 
minerals  may  be  included  He  begins  by 
placing  it  among  Emeralds*;  and  the  account 
he  gives  of  the  hexangular  shape  preserved  by  the 
lapidaries  in  polishing,  seems  to  prove  that  it 
had  the  natural  form  of  our  Emerald^  care  being 


(1)  Ai0oc  BHPYAAION,  yXavxifav  fttv  l<m,  k.  r.  X.     EplphaniuM 
de  xn  Gemmis,  quae  erant  in  Vote  Aarvnis,  p.  10.     Tigur.  1665. 
(9)  Tacf  jr<$paif  t&v  6tp9a\fioJy  rov  fyajcovrof  fort  rapa  xXjj<tui.  Ibid. 

(3)  "Eari  ik  jcai  d\\tj  iraXiv  bfioia  Ktjptp.    Ibid. 

(4)  Vid.  PUn.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  xxzvii.  c.  6.  p.  5d5.  torn.  III.    X.  B*t. 
1635. 


Vases. 


aroos.  457 

taken  to  polish  it  upon  its  lateral  planes :  but  chap. 
his  subsequent  remarks,  added  to  his  con-  ^^^ 
eluding  observations  that  all  Berylls  are  liable 
to  capillary  blemishes,  and  to  be  vitiated  by 
extraneous  substances,  brings  his  Beryll  at 
once  to  our  Quartz :  and  this  also  crystallizes 
in  the  hexagonal  form. 

We  arrived  at  Argos,  and  were  most  hospi-  arqos. 
Jtably  received  by  the  English  Baratary5,  Mr. 
Blasopulo,  pronounced  Vlas'pulo.  He  presented 
us,  upon  our  arrival,  a  silver  medal  of  Ptolemy, 
and  some  beautiful  terra-cotta  vases  found  in  T*m-eoum 
sepulchres  at  a  village  called  Pesopodce,  near  the 
Inachus,  situate  to  the  north  of  Argos.  The 
-Albanian  peasants  by  whom  they  were  dis- 
covered had  broken  many  more ;  not  choosing 
to  use  vessels  that  had  been  taken  from  graves, 
and  conceiving  them  to  be  of  no  value.  They 
were  all  evidently  Grecian,  and  made  in  an  age 
when  the  Arts  were  much  advanced,  if  not  in 
their   most  splendid   sera6.     A  patera  with   two 


(5)  A  Baratary  is  a  person  who  enjoys  the  protection  of  some  nation 
in  alliance  with  the  Porte,  Mr.  BlasopMo  was  protected  by  the  British 
nation. 

(6)  The  annexed  Plate  exhibits  thirteen  of  the  most  remarkable 
of  the  terra  cottas  found  here  or  at  Sicyon,  or  in  other  parts  of  the 
Petoponnenu. 

Fig.  1.  is  evidently  a  Patera  ;  but  for  what  particular  use  this  ressel 

was 


\ 


458  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,    handles,  of  the  most  perfect  form  and  exqaint 


VIII. 


workmanship,  was  almost  covered  with  a  whit 

was  designed  by  the  Greeks,  is  not  so  conspicuous.  Such  patents  a 
sometimes  represented  in  the  hands  of  female  Bacchanals ;  possih 
therefore,  it  was  used  for  drinking  wine :  the  Turks  drink  mrbst  c 
of  Teasels  of  the  same  form,  but  without  foot  or  handle.  FsrytT, 
describing  Dido's  royal  feast,  says,  "  Implevit  mero  pateram."  Afl 
the  fair  Queen  had  made  a  libation,  she  presented  the  patera  to  Bit* 
who  drank  the  whole  of  its  contents  : 

"  Turn  Bitice  dedit  increpitans :  ille  impiger  hausit 
Spumantem  pateram.'* — 

The  blood  of  victims  was  received  in  such  vessels ;  and  it  is  highly  pt 
bable  that  their  form  was  originally  derived  from  the  top  part  of  t 
human  scull,  used  by  all  the  Celtic  tribes  in  drinking  the  blood  of  Um 
enemies,  and  as  a  drinking  vessel.  A  bumper  in  Norway  is  still  call 
a  Skool :  and  the  sorbet  cups  of  the  Turks,  being  without  handle*  m 
feet,  have  exactly  the  shape  of  the  upper  part  of  the  cranium.  Up 
the  subject  of  Pater  as,  Gale,  in  his  "  Court  of  the  Gentiles,*  h 
the  following  observations :  "  The  Levite  having  killed  the  victim 
the  Priest  received  the  blood  in  a  vessel ;  which  Moses  CJBssod.  zzit.  < 
calls  niD^W  Aganoth ;  and  the  Chaldee,  N^pTTO,  that  is  to  say,  i 
Aspersorie :  the  Lxx  render  it  Kparrjpag ;  so  the  Vulgate,  Cratert 
In  imitation  whereof,  the  Popa  having  killed  the  vie  time,  the  Pri< 
received  the  blood  in  a  vessel ;  which  vessel  the  At  ticks  call  vfdyu 
Homer  (Odyss.  y)  styles  it  auviov:  the  Latin,  Patera*.  So  Vir] 
(sEn.  I.  iii.)  *  Sanguinis  et  sacri  pat  eras ;'  which  he  understands 
the  vie  times,  as  Servios." 

Fig.  2.    A  Li bator Y   Vessel,  four  inches  in  height,  painted  wi 
dark  stripes  upon  a  yellow  ground  ;   perhaps  for  containing  oil. 
hus  no  orifice  above  the  neck  :  the  only  opening  is  like  the  spout  of 
tea-pot,  a  part  being  broken  off;  but  the  rest  is  seen  between  tl 
right  handle  and  the  neck  of  the  vessel. 

Fig.  3.  A  beautiful  double-handed  Cup  and  Cover,  curiously  painti 
red  and  black  upon  a  yellow  ground,  four  inches  high,  and  five  inch 
in  diameter.  It  was  probably  intended  for  honey,  the  handles  heir 
stouter  than  in  the  others,  and  the  cover  perhaps  designed  to  presen 
its  contents  from  flies  or  other  insects. 


rf 


A  R  G  o  s.  459 

icrustation,    like    mortar,    as    hard    as    flint,    chap. 

viii. 
ifter  placing  it  for  thirty -six  hours  in  diluted 

mriatic  acid,  during  all  which  time  the  extra- 

eous     cement     dissolved     with    effervescence, 

here  appeared    upon    its   surface   a   beautiful 


Fig.  4.  A  Lamp  of  red  clay  ;  perhaps  one  of  the  vfprcpwv  AydX/iara 
entioned  afterwards  in  the  text.  Sometimes  the  representation  of  a 
iman  head  is  found  with  a  handle  and  spout,  as  a  drinking  vessel, 
ce  the  toys  sold  in  our  potteries.  The  forms  of  various  animals  also 
cur  as  lamps  and  vessels  of  libation. 
Fig.  5.    The  Greek  Pitcher,  for  milk,  or  water,  5}  inches  high 

the  top  of  the  handle,  4$  inches  to  the  lip. 

Fig.  6.     A  Lachrymal  Phial  of  coarse  dark  clay,  nine  iuches  in 
lgth  :  we  found  several  of  these  in  Sicyon.    This  is  the  most  antient 
rcn  of  the  Lachrymatory :  in  latter  ages  they  were  smaller,  and  of 
iss.    •«  Put  thou  mi  tears  into  thy  bottlb."    Pt.  lvi.  8. 
Fig.  7.  A  Lachrymatory,  found  upon  the  site  of  antient  Cromyon, 

the  same  material  as  the  preceding:  this  is  4 J  inches  high.  It 
is  white  circles  upon  a  dark  ground,  the  common  colour  of  marl. 
Fig,  8.  Three  of  this  form,  beautiful  Libatory  Vessels,  with  black 
naments  on  a  red  ground,  were  found  in  Epidauria.  The  plant 
anted  upon  them  is  that  which  architects  call  Acanthus,  and 
itiquaries  sometimes  the  Lotus, 

Fig.  9.  Above  twenty  vessels  of  this  shape,  of  different  sizes,  were 
und  in  Epidauria;  the  largest  not  being  more  than  four  inches 
gh,  and  about  five  inches  in  diameter,  of  a  bright  red  colour ;  somo- 
mes  almost  covered  with  black  varnish,  shining  like  polished  jet ; 
it  of  the  most  delicate  workmanship,  and  nearly  as  thin  as  paper. 

Fig.  10.  A  Lamp,  of  dark,  coarse,  heavy  clay. 

Figs.  11,  12.  Small  vessels,  the  largest  being  only  one  inch  in 
eight,  and  two  inches  in  diameter :  perhaps  designed  for  the  same 
»e  to  which  they  are  still  applied  by  modern  nations ;  namely,  as 
lauds  for  salt. 

Ftg.  13.  A  small  Lachrymatory,  of  red  clay. 


460  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  black  varnish,  shining  like  polished  jet,  not 
in  the  slightest  degree  affected  by  the  acid. 
Within  the  lower  superficies  of  the  foot  of  the 
vessel,  the  maker's  name  was  expressed  by  a 
Greek  monogram  ;  proving  either  that  a  Grecian 
potter  was  proud  to  acknowledge  this  masterly 
piece  of  workmanship,  or  that  it  was  usual  to 
inscribe  the  names  of  places  celebrated  in  the 
manufacture  of  earthenware ;  and  in  this  case, 
the  monogram  may  be  intended  for  MErAPEQN. 
It  consisted  of  the  letters  ME,  which  had  been 
inscribed  with  the  point  of  a  sharp  instrument, 
and  written  in  this  manner : 


A^ 


There  were  other  pateras  of  the  same  manu- 
facture, but  not  entire:  also  a  number  of 
lachrymatories,  and  libatory  vessels,  adorned  with 
monochromatic  painting;  cups  resembling  our 
sugar-basons,  with  covers  variously  decorated 
by  yellow,  red,  and  black  colours ;  singularly 
formed  lamps,  some  representing  human  figures; 
smaller  cups,  and,  however  minute  in  their 
size,  each  of  these  had  its  double  handle. 
The  Baratary  shewed  to  us  a  very  remarkable 
intaglio,  because  although  antient,  it  had  been 
cut  in  glass  of  a  green  colour ;  the  only  instance 
of  the  kind  we  had  ever  seeu. 


arg  os.  461 

We  requested  that  our  host  would  in  future    chap. 

.  VIII* 

spare  no  pains  to  collect  all  the  terra  cottas  >^-/-w 
found  in  the  neighbourhood ;  promising  him 
that  we  would  find  purchasers  for  them  in 
England,  and  patrons  who  would  amply  repay 
him  for  all  his  expense  and  trouble,  as  soon  as 
he  should  give  us  information  that  he  had  suc- 
ceeded in  his  researches.  He  said  he  would 
gladly  undertake  the  work,  if  it  were  only  to 
afford  a  proof  of  his  gratitude  for  the  protection 
he  enjoyed  from  the  British  nation  :  but  we 
received  no  intelligence  from  him  afterwards. 
It  is  a  most  extraordinary  fact,  that,  in  all  the  ignorance 
elaborate  treatises  we  possess  concerning  the^JJ*^ 
funerals  of  the  Antients,  no  satisfactory  cause 
has  been  assigned  for  the  quantity  of  earthen 
vases  found  in  Grecian  sepulchres.  In  the  View 
of  Charon9 s  Ferry,  engraved  as  a  Vignette  for  a 
former  Chapter,  the  Cymba  sutilis,  fashioned  like 
a  Welch  Coracle,  or  rather  an  American  canoe1, 
is  freighted,  besides  passengers,  with  empty 
Amphora:  but  these  are  not  the  sort  of  vases 
found  within  any  of  the  tombs ;  although  some- 
times,  as  symbols   of  departed  souls,  they  were 


use. 


(1)  Herodotus  {lib.  i.)  mentions  the  boats  made  of  skins.  The 
Scholiast  to  Apollonius  Rhodiusy  (lib.  ii.  v.  108)  describes  them  as 
unifertally  in  use. 


462  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,    placed   upon    the    outsides    of   the    immediate 

viii 

v^\rw  receptacles  for  the  body1.  The  vases  within  the 
graves  are  of  a  much  finer  quality ;  and  some- 
times contain  little  gilded  representations  of  herb* 
and  fruit.  There  is  a  passage  in  the  Dialogues 
of  Lucian,  where  Menippus  is  asked  by  Cham 
what  he  carries  in  his  satchel ;  and  he  answers*, 
Hecate's    "  Lupins,  so  please  you !  and  Hecate  s  supper? 

Supper*      

This  raillery  seems  to  be  levelled  against  a 
practice  among  his  countrymen,  of  providing 
the  sepulchres  of  deceased  persons  with  the  pro- 
visions which  are  now  found  within  them,  rather 
than  as  an  allusion  to  the  monthly  offerings 
made  at  the  expense  of  the  wealthy,  when  a 
public  (&cirvov)  supper  was  provided  for  the  poor1. 
Hecate's  supper9  we  may  suppose,  would  be 
regulated  by  the  rank  and  wealth  of  the  de- 
ceased4; lupins  being  considered  as  the  mean 
and  miserable  diet  of  the  lowest  persons ;  and 
hereby  is  explained  the  reason  why  sometimes 
a  single  vase  is  found,  of  the  poorest  quality; 


(1)  See  p.  282  of  this  Volume. 

(2)  Qkppovc,  it  0c\ci£,  Kat  rtJQ  'Ecdrqc  ro  Sii-xvov.     Luciani  Distofr 
Mort.  Charon,  Menippwt,  et  Hermr*. 

(3)  See  Potter  on  the  'EKATHZIA.    Archaologia  Greeea,  vol.  I-P- 
386.     Lond.  1751. 

(4)  Or  by  the  age;    for  of  this  we  hare  curious  testimony,  in  the 
following  answer  of  Apollo,  when  interceding  for  the  life  of  Alctstit: 

Kfv  ypavg,  o\tjrai  xXovffiuQ  rafrjfffrai. 


mum. 


A  R  G  O  S.  463 

and  why,  in  certain  instances,  the  number  has  chap. 
been  increased  to  forty,  of  the  most  costly  ^yO 
workmanship,  containing  representations  of  fruit 
and  herbs.  It  should  be  observed,  that  Lecti-  Lectiater- 
iternium,  or  the  custom  of  giving  a  supper  in  a 
temple  to  the  Gods,  may  have  originated  in  the 
funeral  feast  at  tombs,  from  what  has  been 
already  said  of  the  origin  of  temples?*  This 
practice  of  feasting  at  funerals  has  existed  frotn 
the  days  of  Homer6;  and  still  exists  among 
the  descendants  of  the  antient  Celts,  both  in 
Ireland  and  Scotland ;  and  it  was  once  common 
in  England?.  An  author  has  indeed  observed, 
that  Lectisternium  began  about  a.  u.  c.  356"; 
that  is  to  say,  it  was  then  adopted  by  the 
Romans;  but  it  was  a  much  older  ceremony  in 
Greece :  and  the  occasion  of  its  introduction 
among  the  Romans  shews  that  it  was  connected 


(5)  See  Vol.  II.  of  these  Trav.  Ch.  II.  p.  75.    Octaro  Edition. 

(6)  —A  ot  iraTipa  k\vtop  ticra, 

*Hroe  6  Ttjg  xnivag  Saivv  rafov  'Apytioiffiv 
Mnrpog  rt  arvyepfjc  xai  AvaXicitog  AiyiaBoio. 

Horn.  Odyss.  lib.  iii. 

(7)        u  the  funeral  baked  meats 

Did  coldly  furnish  forth  the  marriage  tables." 

Shakspeares  Hamlet,  Act  I.  sc.  2. 

(8)  O.  Walker  on  Coins  and  Medals,  ch.  vi.  p.  89.    Land.  1697. 


464  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  with  offerings   for  the  dead1,  as  it  was  during  a 
viii.  .  . 

s**^    solemn    supplication    for   deliverance   from  the 

fauMof6  plague-  We  do  not  know  precisely  the  nature 
B^t^n9  °^  ^e  °^eT'mS  that  was  placed  within  these 
£**"/**"  earthen  vases,  in  Grecian  tombs :  the  cake  of 
flour  and  honey  (jiAitovto)  was  put  into  the 
mouth  of  the  deceased,  together  with  a  piece  of 
money  (Savaictj)  as  Charon's  fare,  and  not  into 
any  vessel  by  the  side  of  the  corpse :  but  there 
were  other  offerings,  rarely  noticed  by  any 
writer,  of  which  these  vessels  may  be  examples; 
namely,  the  k6<t[ioi  that  were  carried  to  the 
grave  in  honour  of  the  funeral.  We  have  before 
stated,  that  the  sepulchral  terra-cottas  have  some- 
times the  form  of  images.  Every  person  who 
attended  the  ceremony  of  a  Grecian  funeral 
brought  a  complimentary  token  (rbv  koct/xov)  of 
his  respect  for  the  deceased ;  such  as  Admetus, 
in  JEuripides*,  denied  his  father  the  liberty  to  give 
to  his  wife,  which  all  the  rest  of  the  company 
had  previously  presented.  The  nature  of  the 
Koafxoi  has  never  been  explained ;  any  more 
than  of  the  vepripw  a-yaX/uara5,  said  to  be  carried 


(1 )  "They  joined  themselves  unto  Baal-Peor,  and  ate  the  sacrifice* 
of  the  dead."     Psalms,  cvi.  28. 

(2)  Kocr/iov  ck  rbv  £6v  ovwo$'  tj  &  tvtvatrai.     Euripid.  in  Ale.  t.630» 

(3)  Ibid.  v.  612. 


ARGOS,  405 

by  those  who    followed   the  corpse ;    by   some    chap. 
translated  imagines;   by   others,  grata  munera.   w^-' 
Prom  the  light  thrown   upon   the  subject  by  a 
new  of  the  sepulchres  themselves,  there  is  every 
*eason  to  believe  that  these  beautiful  vases,  with 
ill  the  lamps,  lachrymatories,  and  earthen  vessels, 
bund  in  Grecian  tombs,  many  of  them  being 
righly  ornamented,  were  the  gifts  alluded  to  by 
Euripides,  either  to  the  dead,  or  to  the  Gods  of 
he  dead.      Hence,   perhaps,  we   arrive  at  the 
neaningof  the  Inscription  mentioned  in  the  sixth 
Chapter  of  this  volume,  as  found  upon  an  Athenian 
amp, — "  Socrates,  accept  this  animal  /"     Pure 
slay   was   an    offering   to  the  Gods4.    Another 
curious  subject  of  inquiry  suggested  by  these 
melic$y  is  this  :  Whence  originated  the  custom  ?  Origin 
It   is   undoubtedly   of  much  earlier  date   than  custom. 
my  thing  purely  Grecian.     In  the  most  antient 
lepulchres  of  the  Celts,  in  all  parts  of  Europe, 
sarthen   vessels  are  also  found  of  the  simplest 
form     and     rudest     workmanship,     apparently 
possessing  a  degree  of  antiquity  far  beyond  the 
age  denoted  by  any  of  the  Grecian  terra-cottas. 
Pads  an  ias  mentions  a  terra-cotta  Soros  that  was 
dog  up  at  Argos,  supposed  to  have  been  that 


(4)  Sec  Greek  Marbles,  p.  70.  Camb.  1809. 
VOL,    VI.  H    H 


466  PELOPONNESUS. 

Cv\AiP"    wherein  Ariadne  had  been  buried ;  thereby  de- 
monstrating  its  great  antiquity1.    Such  vessels  are 
also  found  in  the  Tumuli  or  Mounds  of  Tahtary, 
and  in  North  America ;  their  situation,  construe — 
tion,  form,  and  contents,  being  so  similar,  thafc^ 
there  can  be  no   hesitation   in   ascribing  thei^sr 
origin    to    the    same    people*.      The    suppose^S 
tomb  of  Theseus,  opened  by  Oman  son  of  MUtiada^^ 
in  the  Isle  of  Scyros,  from  the  description 
of    the    weapons   found   within   it,   appears 
have  been  one  of  these  aboriginal   sepulchres. 
De  Stehlin,  who  was  Secretary  to  the  ImperiaJ 
Academy   at  Petersburg,    declared    that   there 
is  not  one  instance  of  such  a  tumulus  being 
found  to  the  northward  of  the  fifty-eighth  degree 
of  north  latitude3.     This  perhaps  is  doubtful   A 
full  account  of  those  monuments  ought  to  con- 
stitute an  independent  work ;   and  whenever  the 
subject  is  properly  treated,  the  observations  it 
is  calculated  to  introduce  will  illustrate  a  part 
of  history  hitherto  entirely  unknown. 


We    employed    the    whole   of  this    day  in 


(1)  Ktoapiav  aopov.  Poms.  Corinth,  c.  83.  p.  164.    ed.  Kuhnii. 
(S)  See  Harris's  Tour  into  the  Territory  North-west  of  the  AUeoh**9 
Mountain*,  p.  175.    Boston,  1805. 
(3)  See  Harris's  Tour,  p.  171.    Boston,  1805. 


ARGOS.  467 

examining  the  Town  and  its  Ruins.     Argos  is  a   chap. 
arge  straggling  place,    full   of  cottages,   with 


ew  good  houses.  As  we  have  before  alluded 
o  Celtic  remains  in  this  part  of  Peloponnesus,  it 
lay  be  proper  to  mention,  that  the  roofs  here 
re  not  flat,  as  in  almost  all  parts  of  the  East, 
at  slope  like  those  of  Northern  nations.  The 
ime  style  of  building  may  be  observed  in 
ithenSy  and  in  other  parts  of  Greece :  whether 
itroduced  by  Albanian  workmen,  or  owhig  to 
osteins  which  antiently  existed  in  the  country, 
e  have  not  been  able  to  learn.  The  women 
ere  busied  in  collecting  their  cotton  from 
le  fields;  and  at  this  season  of  the  year  all 
ie  marriages  take  place.  The  present  po-  Popuia. 
ulation  consists  of  six  thousand,  including 
males  and  children4.  There  is  a  school  kept 
y  a  Greek  priest.  Being  desirous  to  know 
hat  the  children  were  taught,  we  visited  the 
taster,  who  seemed  pleased  by  our  inquiries, 
s  if  he  had  bestowed  pains  upon  his  scholars. 
Ie  said  they  were  instructed  in  writing,  arith* 
letic,  astronomy,  physic,  and  rhetoric.  About 
>rty  years   before,  it  had  been  customary  for 


(4)  u  Not  four  thousand,"  according  to   Sir  W.  QeU ;  (Itin.  of 
Preect,  p.  09.)  perhaps  not  including  children  and  women. 

hh2 


468  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  the  principal  families  of  Nauplia  and  Argot  io 
/send  their  children  to  Athens  for  instruction. 
The  Consul  at  Nauplia  had  been  there  educated: 
it  was  in  giving  us  an  account  of  his  journeys 
to  Athens  that  we  first  heard  any  mention  made 
of  the  Statue  of  Ceres,  at  Eleusts ;  for  this  bad 
excited  his  curiosity  when  a  boy,  and  was 
regularly  visited  by  him  in  his  way  to  and  from 
Athens.  The  houses  in  Argos  are  built  with  a 
degree  of  regularity,  and  fitted  up  with  some 
comforts  uncommon  in  this  part  of  the  world, 
although  in  other  respects  they  are  wretched 
hovels.  They  are  all  ranged  in  right  lines,  or 
in  parallel  lines:  and  each  house,  consisting  of  a 
single  story,  has  an  oven  ;  so  that  here  even  the 
Albanians  do  not  bake  their  unleavened  cakes 
upon  the  hearth,  as  it  is  usual  elsewhere  in 
their  cottages.  From  Argos,  the  distance  to 
Mantinea  is  only  eight  hours ;  and  it  is  but  a 
day's  journey  to  Tripolizza,  the  Capital  of  the 
Morea.  When  we  heard  this,  and  the  pressing 
invitation  of  our  Baratary  to  visit  with  him  a 
part  of  Arcadia,  whose  mountains  are  actually 
visible  from  the  Citadel,  and  also  to  extend  our 
journey  to  Misitra,  we  gladly  ordered  horses  for 
the  expedition;  but  a  powerful  antidote  to 
enterprise,  the  mal-aria  fever,  returning  amongst 
us,  with  its  most  violent  paroxysms,  during  the 


ARGOS.  469 

ht,  had  so  considerably  reduced  our  stock  of  c"iiP" 
rgies  before  the  morning,  that  with  deep 
ret  we  were  compelled  to  abandon  the  design 
»eing  Mantinea,  Megalopolis,  and  Sparta,  and 
dhere  to  our  original  plan.  How  few  are 
travellers  who  have  seen  the  interior  of  the 
tea !  and  in  that  small  number,  where  may 
look  for  one  who  has  given  any  intelligence 
;  may  be  called  information,  respecting  the 
ns  of  the  cities  which  the  country  is  known 
ontain1  ?  Perhaps  the  time  is  at  hand  when 
shall  know  more  of  a  region  as  easily  to  be 


i  Tet !  there  is  one  traveller,  whose  qualifications  for  this  purpose 
rell  known,  and  have  been  already  noticed  in  this  Work;  bat 
»uld  never  be  prevailed  upon  to  estimate  the  value  of  bis  own 
rations  high  enough  to  induce  him  to  publish  them.  This  tra- 
is  John  Hawkins,  Af.A.  of  Trinity  College,  Cambridge:  and  as 
hing  cuming  from  one  who  has  the  satisfaction  to  rank  among 
riends,  may  be  imputed  to  partiality,  an  Extract  from  the 
Letter  of  Colonel  Squire  to  his  Brother  may  here  be  considered 
priate.  "  With  Greece**  {says  Col.  Squire)  "  our  most  learned 
its  have  but  a  small  acquaintance  :  few  travellers  have  published 
observations ;  many  events  in  history  have  been  misunderstood  ; 
translators  and  commentators  have  beeu  entirely  bewildered, 
;  to  their  ignorance  of  its  topography.  The  writers,  to  whom 
ifer  at  our  best  authorities,  are  trifling,  inaccurate,  and  super- 
There  is,  however,  a  Gentleman  in  England,  Mr.  Hawkins, 
ier  of  Sir  Christopher  Hawkins,  a  mon  of  shrewd  sagacity,  erudi- 
and  indefatigable  exertion,  who  has  explored  every  part  of  the 
ry,  and  now  possesses  very  ample  means  to  reuder  a  signal  service 
e  publication  of  the  muterials  he  has  collected." 

Colonel  Squire's  MS.  Correspondence, 


470  PELOPONNESUS. 

crap,  visited  as  the  County  of  Derbyshire,  and  Where 
%^>r^  the  traveller  is  not  exposed  to  half  the  dangers 
encountered  every  night  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  London.  Groundless  apprehensions,  calcu- 
lated only  to  alarm  children,  concerning  ima- 
ginary banditti,  and  the  savage  nature  of  its 
inhabitants,  have  been  hitherto  powerful  enough 
to  prevent  travellers  from  exploring  its  interior: 
but  these  are  beginning  to  vanish  :  and  we  may 
hope  that  many  years  will  not  elapse  before  the 
shepherds  of  Arcadia  and  Laconia,  of  Meuema 
and  JSKs,  will  have  become  as  good  guides  to 
the  antiquities  of  their  mountains  and  valleys, 
as  the  natives  of  Puzzoli  now  are  to  the  Ruins  of 
Bake. 

A^uqni-  jYie  antiquities  of  Argos,  once  so  numerous1, 
may  now  be  comprised  within  a  very  short  list. 
A  brief  summary  of  them  as  they  existed  in  the 
second  century,  omitting  the  catalogue  of  statues 
and  altars,  may  be  useful  for  future  travellers  • 
we  shall  therefore  introduce  it,  followed  by  * 
description  of  the  principal  remains,  as  we 
found  them  ;  for  these  are  not  likely  to  be  much 


(])  See  the  long  list  of  them  in  the  Second  Book  of  Fau*aM& 
chapters  IS,  19.20,  21,22, 23 ,  24,  from  p.  149.  to  p.  167,  of  the  edit** 
by  Kuhnius.    Lips.  1606. 


ARGOS.  47 1 

affected  by  any  lapse  of  time.  It  is  useless  to  chap. 
refer  to  Strabo  upon  this  occasion,  because  be 
was  not  upon  the  spot j  but  Pausanias9  as 
o&rtfmic,  coming  from  My  cents  to  Argos,  before 
he  arrives  at  the  Inachus,  mentions  the  Hieron 
of  Ceres  Mysias ;  containing  one  of  those  curious 
temples  of  which  we  discovered  some  remains 
in  Epidauria  ;  (Na&c  6x1%  irXtvdov)  not  merely  a 
temple  roofed  with  baked  tiles  (for  it  stood  within 
another  building  originally  itself  roofed,  although 
in  ruins  when  Pausanias  saw  it),  but  actually 
a  terra-cotta  temple.  The  fragments  of  this 
building  may  yet  be  discerned  ;  although  we 
could  find  no  part  of  it  so  entire  as  the  beau- 
tiful terra-cotta  cornice  and  frieze  we  had  been 
so  fortunate  as  to  discover  in  Epidauria.  Thence 
entering  Argosy  by  the  Gate  of  Lucina,  the  same 
author  notices  in  the  lower  city,  as  the  most 
conspicuous1  of  all  the  temples,  that  of  Apollo 
Lycias.  Afterwards,  it  is  difficult  to  enumerate 
all  the  other  temples  mentioned  by  him,  because 
we  do  not  distinctly  know  what  he  intends  by 
the  word  'hpov,  as  distinguished  from  Naoc. 
Thus,  for  example,  he  mentions  the  most  antient 


(2)  'BTi+avkerarov  lib.  ii.  c   19.  p.  152.    ed.  Kuhnii. 


472  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.    Temple1   of    Fortune,   and    the  Hieron   of    the 

VIII. 

Hours*.  We  have  proved  already  that  Hieron 
does  not  necessarily  signify  a  Temple,  nor  even 
a  building :  any  thing  containing  what  was  sacred 
received  this  appellation  ;  a  Cave ;  a  Grove ;  a 
portable  Shrine ;  and  perhaps  a  Clepsydra.  There 
were,  however,  many  Temples  in  Argos.  There 
were  also  Sepulchres  and  Canotaphs ;  a  Theatre  ; 
a  Forum  ;  a  Mound  of  Earth*,  believed  to  be  the 
Tomb  of  the  head  of  the  Gorgon  Medusa;  a 
Gymnasium ;  and  a  subterraneous  edifice.  After 
this,  beginning  his  ascent  towards  the  Acropolis, 
Pausanias  notices  the  Hieron  of  Juno  Acraa,  and 
a  Temple  of  Apollo,  situate  upon  a  ridge  called 
Diras*.  Here  was  an  Oracle,  where  answers 
were  given  so  lately  as  the  time  when  Pausanias 
saw  the  temple.  Close  to  this  temple  there 
was  also  a  Stadium5;  and  this  circumstance  is 
enough  to  prove  that  by  '  Diras'  Pausanias  does 
not  mean  the  summit  of  the  hill  ;  for  after 
leaving  the  Stadium,  he  continues  his  ascent  by 


( 1 )  TvxflQ  Ivtiv  Ik  TraXatordrev  N  A02.     Ibid.  e.  20.  p.  1 64. 
(2),Qpuiv,IEP0Ni(Triv.     Ibid.  p.  155. 

(3)Xwpa  yrjc  laTiv,  ix>  H  avrif  KtlaOai  rt)v  MtSovcrtjc  \i yovai  rijc 
VopyovocKKpaXrjv.     Ibid.  p.  159. 
(4)"Ort  Kai  6  tottoq  ovtoq  caXeirat  AEIPA2.     Ibid.  c.  24.  p.  105. 
(5)    Ibid. 


A  R  G  o  s.  473 

the  monument  of  the  sons  of  JEyyptas,  on  the  left-    chap. 
hand  side  of  his  road,  until  he  arrives  (hf  aicp?) 


upon  the  summit  called  Larissa,  where  he  finds 
the  temples  of  Jupiter  Larisscsus  aud  of  Minerva. 
And  in  the  subsequent  part  of  his  description, 
speaking  of  the  roads  from  Argos  to  Mantin&a*, 
and  to  Lyrcea1,  he  says  they  began  from  the  gates 
near  Diras ;  consequently  the  Oracular  Temple 
most  have  been  lower  than  the  summit,  although 
upon  the  hill  of  the  Acropolis.  With  so  much 
information,  and  some  of  the  monuments  yet 
remaining  in  Argos,  it  would  not  be  difficult  for 
a  traveller,  having  leisure  and  opportunity,  to 
complete  the  plan  of  the  antient  city.  This  our 
time  would  not  permit  ;  but  we  ascertained 
some  of  the  antiquities :  and  first  the  Theatre,  AnUqui- 
upon  the  south-eastern  side  of  the  hill  of  the 
Acropolis ;  one  of  the  principal  objects  no- 
ticed by  Pausanias  upon  entering  the  city. 
Some  of  the  sepulchres  also  may  be  ob- 
served. 

The  Theatre  is  a  very  remarkable  structure.  Theatre. 
As  usual,  it    is   entirely  an   excavation  of  the 


(6)  Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  25.  p.  107. 

(7)  Ibid. 


474  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,   rock ;  but  it  differs  from  every  other  theatre  we 

VI IL  .  • 

saw  in  Greece,  in  having  two  wings,  with  seats, 


one  on  either  side  of  the  Cavea ;  so  that  it  might 
be  described  as  a  triple  Cation.  We  could  not 
conceive  for  what  purpose  these  side  cavities 
were  designed  ;  unless  for  minor  representa- 
tions, or  as  steps  in  ascending  to  the  central 
sweep :  but  if  the  latter  were  intended,  there 
would  have  been  no  necessity  for  the  curved 
shape  that  has  been  given  to  them ;  making  the 
whole  structure  wear  the  appearance  rather  of 
three  theatres  than  of  one.  Within  the  centre 
Cavea  there  were  sixty-four  seats  remaining; 
the  height  of  each  seat  being  thirteen  inches. 
Opposite  to  this  structure  are  the  remains  of  a 
very  large  edifice,  built  entirely  of  tiles  ;  pro- 
bably a  part  of  the  Castellum  (x*>pfov)  which  was 
near  to  the  Theatre,  called  Criterion,  once  a 
court  or  tribunal  of  judgment  Above  the 
Venu*.  Theatre1  was  the  Hieron  of  Venus ;  and  this  we 
certainly  found.     Within  this  temple  there  was 


(1)  The  expression  l*,vxlp il  rb  Biarpov :  and  this  by  Amounts  (md. 
Pout.  Cor.  e.  20.  p.  166.  ed.  Kuhnii)  is  render  supra  theatntm  ;  bat 
virlp,  in  many  instances,  is  by  Pausanias  used  to  signify  beyond ;  that 
is  to  say,  the  next  object  occurring  in  the  line  of  his  observation.  In 
this  instance,  the  building  alluded  to  was  above  the  Theatre,  upon  the 
hill  towards  the  Acropolis. 


A  R  G  o  s.  475 

a  statue  of  the  Poetess  Telesilla,  the  Manublla   chap. 

vin. 
Sancho  of  her  day  ;    who,   like  the    modern 


of  Saragossa  at  the  head  of  a  band  of 
female  warriors,  repelled  from  the  walls  of  the 
city  the  enemies  of  her  country,  when  the 
Lacedemonians  attacked  Argos.  "  She  was  re- 
presented/' says  Pausanias*,  "  standing  upon  a 
pillar,  with  the  books  of  her  poetry  scattered 
at  her  feet,  in  the  act  of  regarding  a  helmet 
which  she  was  about  to  put  upon  her  head." 
And  when  the  Spanish  Telesilla*  who  has  so 
nobly  followed  the  example  offered  by  her 
Grecian  predecessor,  shall  have  a  monument 
consecrated  to  the  memory  of  her  illustrious 
achievements,  her  countrymen  may  find  in  this 
description  a  classical  model  for  its  design.  The 
site  of  the  Hieron  is  now  occupied  by  a  Greek 
chapel,  but  it  contains  the  remains  of  columns 
whose  capitals  are  of  the  most  ancient  Corinthian 
order  ;  a  style  of  building  unknown  in  our 
country,  scarcely  a  model  of  it  having  ever 
been  seen  in  England;  although  it  far  exceeds 
in  beauty  and  simplicity  the  gaudy  and  crowded 
foliage  of  the  later  Corinthian.  The  temples  of 
Venus  being  generally  of  the  Corinthian  order, 


(2)  Vid.  Paus.  in  Corinth,  c  20.  pp.  156, 167.  ed. 


476  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  we  have  reason  to  believe  that  the  Hieron,  in 

VIII 

i  j  this  instance,  was  one  of  them ;  and  we  have 
therefore,  in  this  chapel,  another  point  of 
observation,  as  a  beacon,  in  ascertaining  the 
antiquities  enumerated  by  Pausanias.  We  ob- 
served this  building  in  our  way  down  from  the 
Citadel  towards  the  sea;  therefore  it  will  be 
better  to  describe  the  objects  first  noticed  in  our 
ascent  from  the  modern  town. 

Going  up  to  the  fortress,  we  saw  towards  our 
left  j  that  is  to  say,  upon  the  north-eastern  side  of 
mra*'  the  hill  of  the  Acropolis,  the  ridge  called  Diras  by 
Pausanias,  where  the  Temple  of  Apollo  Diradiotes 
was  situate.  A  monastery  now  occupies  the  site  of 
the  temple,  standing  upon  a  high  rock,  with  pre- 
cipices above  and  below.  It  is  said  to  contain  a 
cavern,  well  suited  to  the  contrivance  necessary 
for  the  oracles1  delivered  here  in  the  time  of  that 
author.  Afterwards,  as  we  proceeded,  we  saw 
the  remains  of  antient  works  also  upon  our  left ; 
and  it  was  upon  his  left  hand  in  ascending  to 
the  Acropolis  that  Pausanias  observed  a  monu- 


(1)  See  Qell'i  Itin.  of  Greece,  p.  67.  Sir  W.  Gell  says,  there  is  here 
also  space  enough  for  a  Stadium ;  and  this  agrees  with  the  description 
of  Pausanias,  who  says,  the  Stadium  adjoined  the  Temple  of  Apollo* 


ARG08.  477 

ment  of  the   sons  of  JEgyptus*.     The  way  up    en  a  p. 

a   mountain  is  little  liable  to  alteration  ;   and  \ ^—> 

probably  the  track  we  pursued  was  nearly,  if 
not  entirely,  the  same  that  was  trodden  by 
him.  The  fortress  itself  is  evidently  a  modern 
building ;  its  walls  contain  fragments  of  anti- 
quities, used  as  materials  in  building  them3;  but 
on  the  sides  and  lower  part  of  it  we  observed 
the  remains  of  Cyclopian  architecture,  as  antient  Cyclopia. 
as  the  Citadel  of  Tiryns,  and  built  in  the  same 
style.  This  structure  is  mentioned  by  Pau- 
sanias,  in  his  seventh  book  ;  where  he  states  that 
the  inhabitants  of  My  cents  were  unable  to  de- 
molish the  wall  of  the  Ar gives,  built,  like  that 
of  Tiryns,  by  the  Cyclops4.  The  Cyclopian  walls 
and  towers  of  Argos  are  also  noticed  by  Euripides, 
Polybius,  and  Seneca.  Hence  we  had  a  glorious 
view  of  almost  all  Argolis,  and  great  part  of 
the  Arcadian  territory,  even  to  the  mountains  of 
Laconia,   visible  from  this   eminence5.     Placed 


(2)  'Eg  ik  rrjv  drpoxoXtv  lovniv  loriv  Iv  aptortpf  ttiq  otov  r&v 
Aiyvwrov  xaitvvKal  ravry  fivrjfia.  Pausan,  in  Corinth,  c.  24.  p.  165. 
ad.  Kuhnii. 

(3)  Sir  W.  Gell  found  here  a  very  antient  Inscription;  and  says  that 
ViBoison  intimates  the  existence  of  a  ?ery  curious  one  at  Argos.  See 
Itin.  of  Greece,  p.  68.     Land,  1810. 

(4)  Pausan.  in  Corinth,  lib.  rii.  c  £5.  p.  689.    ed.  Kuhnii. 

(5)  See  this  prospect  as  engraved  from  a  most  accurate  drawing 
made  upon  the  spot  by  Sir  W.  Oell.  ltin,  of  Greece,  Plate  six.  p.  68. 
land.  1810. 


478  PELOPONNB8U8. 

chap,  centrally  with  regard  to  the  Sinus  ArgoUcusy  the 
v  y  *  eye  surveys  the  Laooman  and  Argotic  Promon- 
tories ;  and  looks  down  upon  Nauplia,  Tiryns, 
and  all  the  south-western  side  of  the  gulph9 
almost  with  the  same  facility  as  it  regards  the 
^jfoman  streets  of  Argos.  We  saw  the  Alcyonian  Lake 
in  the  last  direction,  now  a  weedy  pool1:  the 
natives  of  Argos  relate  of  it,  as  did  Pausamas*, 
that  nothing  swims  upon  its  waters.  On  this 
side  of  the  Gulph  we  saw  also  the  Plain  of 
Lerna,  once  fabled  to  be  infested  with  the 
Hydra;  and,  in  the  same  direction,  the  road 
leading  to  Tripolizza,  until  it  lost  itself  in  the 
mountains  ;  following  with  our  eyes  great  part 
of  a  journey  we  were  desirous  to  accomplish 
more  effectually. 

Hence  we  descended  towards  the  sea;   and 


(1)  There  cannot,  however,  be  much  alteration  in  this  piece  of 
water  since  the  time  of  Pausanias  ;  who  describes  it  as  a  pooi,  mea- 
suring in  diameter  only  one  third  of  a  stadium  (about  seventy-tkrt* 
yards),  and  lying  amongst  grass  and  bulrushes.  (VitL  Paustnu  in 
Corinth,  c  87.  p.  200.  erf.  Kuhnii.)  As  to  its  prodigious  depth,  it 
would  be  curious  to  ascertain  what  foundation  there  was  for  the 
account  given  of  its  fathomless  nature,  by  the  same  author;  who 
relates  that  Nero  could  not  reach  the  bottom  with  lead  fastened  to  ropes 
many  stadia  hi  length. 

(8)  The  account  given  of  it  by  Pausanias  is,  that  it  draw*  persons 
to  the  bottom  who  venture  to  swim  upon  its  surface.  The  tame  sort 
of  story  is  often  related,  by  the  common  people  In  this  coontry,  of 
any  deep  water. 


ARGOS.  4>79 

came  to  the  remains  of  the  Temple  of  Venus  cJJnP" 
before  mentioned,  above  the  Theatre,  where  the  ^ — ' 
Greek  chapel  is  situate3.  We  were  unable  to 
discover  any  remains  of  the  Stadium ;  but  this 
in  all  probability,  will  not  elude  the  researches 
of  other  travellers.  After  again  visiting  the 
Theatre,  we  found,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  of  the 
Acropolis,  one  of  the  most  curious  tell-tale 
remains  yet  discovered  among  the  vestiges  of 
Pagan  priestcraft :  it  was  nothing  less  than  one 
of  the  Oracular  Shrines  of  Argos  alluded  to  by  oracular 

.  .  Shrine. 

Pausanias,  laid  open  to  inspection,  like  the  toy  a 
child  has  broken  in  order  that  he  may  see  the  con- 
trivance whereby  it  was  made  to  speak.  A  more 
interesting  sight  for  modern  curiosity  can  hardly 
be  conceived  to  exist  among  the  ruins  of  any 
Grecian  city.  In  its  original  state  it  had  been  a 
temple;  the  farther  part  from  the  entrance,  where 
the  altar  was,  being  an  excavation  of  the  rock 
and  the  front  and  roof  constructed  with  baked 
tiles.  The  altar  yet  remains,  and  part  of  the 
fictile  superstructure :  but  the  most  remarkable 


(3J  Sir  W.  Gell  afterwards  found  here  a  broken  Inscription, 
-  evidently,"  he  says  "  relating  to  Venus."  It  were  to  be  wlibed, 
although  a  fragment,  that  he  had  prefer? ed  and  published  it ;  as  an 
imseriptum  so  decidedly  identifying  one  of  the  beacons  mentioned  by 
Pernr-fr"  would  materially  tend  to  facilitate  future  researches  upon 
the  spoc— See  QeWs  Itin.  of  Greece,  p.  64.    Lond.  1810. 


480  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  part  of  the  whole  is  a  secret  subterraneous 
passage,  terminating  behind  the  altar ;  its 
entrance  being  at  a  considerable  distance 
towards  the  right  of  a  person  facing  the  altar; 
and  so  cunningly  contrived  as  to  have  a  small 
aperture,  easily  concealed,  and  level  with  the 
surface  of  the  rock.  This  was  barely  large 
enough  to  admit  the  entrance  of  a  single  person; 
who  having  descended  into  the  narrow  passage, 
might  jcreep  along  until  he  arrived  immediately 
behind  the  centre  of  the  altar;  where,  being 
hid  by  some  colossal  statue  or  other  screen,  the 
sound  of  his  voice  would  produce  a  most 
imposing  effect  among  the  humble  votaries 
prostrate  beneath,  who  were  listening  in  silence 
upon  the  floor  of  the  sanctuary.  We  amused 
ourselves  for  a  few  minutes,  by  endeavouring  to 
mimic  the  sort  of  solemn  force  acted  upon  these 
occasions :  and  as  we  delivered  a  mock  oracle, 
ore  rotundo,  from  the  cavernous  throne  of  the 
altar,  a  reverberation,  caused  by  the  sides  of 
the  rock,  afforded  a  tolerable  specimen  of  the 
"  will  of  the  Gods,"  as  it  was  formerly  made 
known  to  the  credulous  votaries  of  this  now- 
forgotten  shrine.  There  were  not  fewer  than 
twenty-flve  of  these  juggling  places  in  Pelopon- 
nesus, and  as  many  in  the  single  province  of 
Bceotia :  and  surely  it  will  never  again  become  a 


ARGOS.  481 

question  among  learned  men,  whether  the  chap. 
answers  in  them  were  given  by  the  inspiration  ^v^# 
of  evil  spirits,  or  whether  they  proceeded  from 
the  imposture  of  priests:  neither  can  it  again 
be  urged  that  it  ceased  at  the  birth  of  Christ  i 
because  Pausanias  bears  testimony  to  their 
existence  at  Argos  in  the  second  century1.  Per- 
haps it  was  to  the  particular  shrine  now  de- 
scribed that  his  evidence  refers :  its  position, 
however,  does  not  exactly  warrant  this  opinion ; 
for  the  oracle  he  mentions  corresponded  rather 
with  the  situation  of  the  monastery  upon  a 
ridge  of  the  hill  of  the  Acropolis.  In  this  situa- 
tion he  places  other  shrines ;  namely,  the  Hieron 
of  Jupiter  Saviour,  together  with  a  cell  (otrni/no) 
or  abiding  place  where  the  Argive  women  were 
wont  to  mourn  the  death  of  Adonis2 :  and  as  not 
only  Heathen  deities,  but  also  heroes,  were  ren- 
dered subservient  to  these  purposes  of  priest* 
craft,  the  worship  of  Adonis  might  have  con- 
tributed to  swell  the  list  of  temples  where 
oracles  were  delivered.     Near  to  the  same  spot  other  Re- 

.    mains  of 

we  sa  w  the  remains  of  an  Aqueduct:  and  to  this  the  city 


(1)  MavTtirirtu  yap  In  Kai  ic  >}***£•  Vld.  Pausan.  in  Corinth,  c.  24. 
p.  165.  ed.  Kuhnii. 

(9)  Kai  Ai<$£  lariv  IvravBa  Upbv  adtrijpoQ.  cat  vaptovciv  ct'c  t6 
tfrypa,  ivraw$a  rbv  "A&tfvty  at  yvvaUuQ  'kpyiiuv  dtivpovrai*  Ibid, 
c  90.  p.  156. 

VOL.  VI.  I    I 


VIII. 


482  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,   there  seems  also  an  allusion  by  Pausanias,  in  the 
obscure  account  he   gives  of    a  channel   con- 
ducting the  water  of  the  Cephissus  beneath  a 
temple  dedicated  to  that  river1.     But  there  are 
other    appearances    of   subterraneous  structures 
requiring  considerable  attention ;  some  of  these 
are  upon  the  hill:  they  are  covered,  like  the 
Cyclopian  gallery  of  Tiryns,  with  large  approach- 
ing stones,  meeting  so  as  to  form  an   arched 
way  which   is  only  visible  where  these  stones 
are  open8.     Among  them  the  traveller  may  look 
for  the    subterraneous  edifice   with    the   brazen 
Thalamus  constructed  by  Acrisius  for  his  daugh- 
ter3.    There  is  also  a  large  church  at  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  town,  containing  fragments  of 
Ionic  columns    and   inscriptions4.      One  of  the 
mosques  is   said    to    have    been    erected    with 
blocks  brought  from  the  Grove  of  JEsculapius,  in 
Epidauria5 :    the   same  circumstance   was    also 
alluded    to    by    Chandler*.      Perhaps  the  time 
may  arrive  when  a  more  enlightened  people  than 


(1)  Pausan.  in  Corinth,  c.  20.  p.  166.  ed.  KuhniL 

(2)  GelVs  I  tin.  of  Greece,  p.  66.    Lond.  1810. 

(3)  Pausan.  at  supra,  c.  23.  p.  164. 

(4)  GelVs  Itin.  of  Greece,  p.  69. 

(5)  Ibid. 

(6)  See  Chandler's  Trar.  io  Greece,  p.  226.    Oqf.  1776.    Alto  the 
preceding  Chapter  of  this  Volnme. 


aroos.  483 

the  Turks  will  again  bring  to  light  the  valuable  chap. 
antiquities  there  concealed  ;   although  the  ac-  v^v^ 
quisition  should  be  obtained  even  at  so  great 
an  expense  as  that  of  taking  down  and  rebuild- 
ing a  Moslem  place  of  worship. 

We  have  now  concluded  our  very  cursory  Character 
survey  of  Argas :  but  we  shall  not  quit  the  relics  Antient 
of  this  memorable  city,  without  briefly  noticing  rfn°e§' 
a  circumstance  in  its  history,  to  which  little 
attention  seems  to  have  been  paid  by  the  com- 
pilers of  Grecian  annals ;  namely,  its  illustrious 
character,  as  founded  on  the  noble  examples 
offered  in  the  actions  of  its  citizens.  If  Athens, 
by  arts,  by  military  talents,  and  by  costly 
solemnities,  became  "one  of  the  Eyes  of 
Greece/'  there  was  in  the  humanity  of  Argos, 
and  in  the  good  feeling  frequently  displayed  by 
its  inhabitants,  a  distinction  which  comes  nearer 
to  the  heart.  Something  characteristic  of  the 
people  may  be  observed  even  in  a  name  given 
to  one  of  their  Divinities ;  for  they  worshipped 
a  u  God  of  Meekness1.99  It  may  be  said, 
perhaps,  of  the  Argive  character,  that  it  was 
less  splendid  than  the  Athenian,  and  less  rigid 


(7)  The  Argive*  gave  to  one  of  their  Gods  the  name,  MuAtxtov  Aide, 
of  the  Meek  God,  or  Mild  Jupiter.    Vid.  Pausan.  iii  Cor.  c.  20.  p.  154. 

i  i2 


484  PELOPONNE9US. 

chap,  than  the  Lacedamonian,  but  it  was  also  less 
artificial :  and  the  contrast  it  exhibited,  when 
opposed  to  the  infamous  profligacy  of  Corinth, 
where  the  manners  of  the  people,  corrupted 
by  wealth  and  luxury,  were  further  vitiated 
by  the  great  influx  of  foreigners1,  rendered 
Argas,  in  the  days  of  her  prosperity,  one  of  the 
most  enviable  cities  of  Greece.  The  stranger 
who  visited  Athens  might  indeed  regard  with 
an  eager  curiosity  the  innumerable  trophies 
everywhere  suspended,  of  victors  in  her  splen- 
did games ;  might  admire  her  extensive  por- 
ticoes, crowded  with  philosophers ;  might  gaze 
with  wonder  at  the  productions  of  her  artists ; 
might  revere  her  magnificent  temples ; — but 
feelings  more  affecting  were  called  forth  in  be- 
holding the  numerous  monuments  of  the  Argives, 
destined  to  perpetuate  the  memory  of  indi- 
viduals who  had  rendered  themselves  illustrious 
only  by  their  virtues2. 


(1)  "  Ex  hac  peregrinorum  homiuum  collurie,  necesse  erat  et  ciriam 
mores  corrampi.  Quapropter  Laceds&mouli,  quorum  graris  et  seven 
semper  fuit  Resp.  nollos  ad  se  peregrinos  recipiebant,  ne  alienigenit 
ritibufl  urbis  optime  constitutes  status  eTerteretar."  Gtrbtlius  in 
Corinth,  Descript.  ap.  Gronov.  The$.  Gr<Bc.  Antiq.  torn,  IV.  p.  51. 
L.  Bat.  1699. 

(2)  Witness  the  filial  piety  of  Cleobis and  Biton,  to  whom  the  Argivet 
also  erected  statues  at  Delphi;  the  heroism  of  TeletUla,  in  reacting 

the 


AROOS   TO    MTCENJE.  485 

On  Tuesday  morning,  November  the  tenth,  we  chap. 
took  leave  of  the  hospitable  Baratary,  fraught  \^v^ 
with  a  rich  cargo  of  Grecian  pottery ;  and  set  out 
for  Mycence,  the  city  of  Agamemnon,  anticipating 
a  treat  among  those  Ruins,  for  which  Lusieri  had 
already  prepared  us.  We  entered  the  spacious 
Plain  of  Argos,  level   as   the  still   surface  of  view  of 

the  Argiv 

a  calm  sea,  and  extending  in  one  rich  field,  Plain, 
with  the  most  fertile  soil,  from  the  mouths  of 
the  Inachus  towards  the  north.  Having  again 
crossed  the  dry  channel  of  the  XAPAAPOAHS 
nOTAMOS,  and  looking  back  towards  the 
Larissean  Citadel,  the  lofty  conical  hill  of  the 
Acropolis  appeared  rising  in  the  midst  of  this 
plain,  as  if  purposely  contrived  to  afford  a  bul- 
wark for  dominion,  and  for  the  possession  of 
this  valuable  land ;  which,  like  a  vast  garden, 
is   walled   in   by    mountains3.      Such   was   the 


the  city  fiom  its  enemies;  the  conduct  of  another  A  r give  woman,  who 
faved  her  sou's  life  by  slaying  Pyrrkus ;  Sec.  &c.  "  Hoc  urbs  plurimis 
exempli*  ad  virtutem  not  excitantibut  abundtvit."  GerbeLzp  Gronov. 
fee.  p.  52.  Yet  these  rewards,  of  statues  and  trophies  erected  as 
public  records  of  private  virtues,  according  to  a  recent  discovery  in 
moral  philosophy  {See  Quarterly  Beview.No.  33.  p.  187.  Augvst,1$W) 
afford  "  an  inference,  that  these  virtues  were  of  rare  occurrence  in 
the  cities  where  such  numerous  testimonies  were  commemorated ! ! !" 

(3)  See  Vol.  III.  of  the  Octavo  Edition  of  these  Travels,  Chap.  IV. 
p.  07,  on  the  allurements  offered  to  the  early  settlers  in  Greece  by  the 
appearance  of  the  country. 


486  PELOPONNESUS 

chap,   inviting  aspect  exhibited  by  the  Argwe  terri- 


vm. 


tory  to  the  earliest  settlers  in  this  country.     No 
labour  was  necessary,  as  amidst  the  forests  and 
unbroken  soil  of  the  North  of  Europe  and  of 
America  :  the  colonies,  upon  their  arrival,  found 
an  open  field,  with  a  rich  impalpable  soil,  already 
prepared  by  Providence  to  yield  an  abundant 
harvest  to  the  first  adventurer  who  should  scatter 
seed   upon   its  surface.     We  cannot   therefore 
wonder,  that    within    a   district  not  containing 
more  square  miles  than  the  most  considerable 
of    our    English    parishes,    there    should  have 
been  established,  in  the  earliest  periods  of  its 
history,  four  capital  cities,  Argos,  Mycence,  Ttryns, 
and  Nauplia,  each  contending  with  the  other  for 
superiority  ;  or  that  every  roaming  colony  who 
chanced   to  explore  the  Argolic  Gulph  endea- 
voured to   fortify   a  position   upon   some   rock 
near  to  the  plain,  and  struggle  for  its  posses- 
sion.     This    is    all    that    seems    necessary   to 
illustrate  the  first  dawnings  of  government,  not 
only  within  this  district,   but   in   every  part  of 
the  Hellenian  territories :  and  the  fables  trans- 
mitted  from   one   generation   to   another,   con- 
Fabulous    cerning     the     contest     between    Neptune    and 
between     Juno  for  the  country,  as  between  Neptune  and 
nod  Juno.  Minerva   for   Attica9    may  be   regarded   as  so 
many  records  of  those  physical  revolutions,  in 


AROOS  TO   MYCBNjE. 


487 


preceding  ages,  which  gave  birth  to  these  fertile  chap. 
regions;    when  the  waters  of  the  sea  slowly 
retired  from  the  land ;  or,  according  to  the  lan- 
guage of  poetry  and  fable,  were  said  to  have 
reluctantly  abandoned  the  plains  of  Greece1. 

About  five  miles  from  Argos,  on  the  left  side 
of  the  road,  we  found  the  remains  of  an  antient 
structure,  which  at  first  we  supposed  to  be 
those  of  the  Herceum,  a  temple  once  common 
to  the  two  cities  of  Mycenae  and  Argos ;  when 
the  twin  brothers,  Acrisius  and  Prcetus,  who 
were  grandsons  of  Beltis,  possessed  the  two 
capitals,  and  worshipped  the  same  tutelary 
Deity*.  This  position  of  it  corresponds,  in 
some  degree,  with  its  situation,  according  to 
Pausamas ;  but  not  in  all  respects.  He  de- 
scribes the  distance  from  Mycence  to  Argos  as 
equal  to  fifty  stadia  (6£  miles),  and  the  Heraeum 
as  being  at  the  distance  of  fifteen  stadia  (one 


(1)  By  attention  to  natural  phenomena  upon  the  spot,  some  light 
may  certainly  be  thrown  upon  the  antient  fables  of  the  country.  A 
▼cry  happy  illustration  of  the  origin  of  the  Hydra,  which  infested  the 
Flam  of  Lima,  near  Argot,  as  taken  from  the  MS.  Journal  of  the 
Barl  of  Aberdeen,  by  Sir  IF.  Gell,  and  is  found  in  a  Note  to  his  Work. 
See  Itin.  of  Greece,  p.  79.     Lond.  1810. 

(9)  CaJ  rb  'Hpaltfv  tlvai  Koivbv  itpov  rb  irpbgralc  Mt/rjr/vatf  d/ifoiv, 
*.  r.  X.    Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  ? iii.  p.  539.    Ed.  Oxon. 


488  PSI,0?ONNESV9, 

chap,  mile  and  seven  furlongs)  from  that  city.  But 
WvV  he  places  it  to  the  left1  of  the  city,  and  upon 
the  lower  par?  of  a  mountain  near  a  flowing  stream 
called  Eleutherxon.  The  last  observations  do 
not  permit  us  to  consider  the  remains  of  this 
structure  as  being  any  part  of  the  Herceum ;  as 
they  are  situate  in  the  plain,  and  not  close  to 
any  rivulet  or  water-course.  But  near  to  this 
Structure  there  was  another  Ruin,  whose 
foundations  more  resembled  the  oblong  form 
of  a  temple'-  it  was  built  with  baked  bricks, 
and  originally  lined  with  marble.  Here, 
then,  there  seems  every  reason  to  believe  we 
otceres  discovered  the  remains  of  the  whole  Hieron 
Mytias.  Qf  (foes  Mysias,  noticed  by  Pausanias  in  his 
road  from  Mycence  to  Argos,  by  a  description 
very  applicable  to  these  Ruins.  He  says3  the 
building  had  no  roof,  but  contained  within  it 
another  temple  of  brick-work ;  and  that  the 
traveller  going  thence  towards  Argos,  arrived 
at  the  river  Inachus.  In  the  different  facts  the 
Reader  may  have  collected  from  this  and  the 
preceding  Chapter  concerning   the  remains  of 


(1)  Vid.  Pausan.  iu  Corinth,  c.  17.  p.  147.    Ed.  KuhniL 

(2)  Ibid. 

(3)  Ibid. 


ARGOS   TO    XYCBK-1S.  4Stf 

antient  art  in  Argolis,  he  will  have  porwivtnl    K*\)? 
the  very   general  prevalence   of  terra  wtta  in  *•*■ 
works  of  much  higher  antiquity  than  it  is  usual 
to  suppose  were  constructed   of  thin  material. 
A  vulgar  notion   has  prevailed,  that  this  style 
of    building    was    for    the    most   part   Roman. 
When  tiles  or  bricks  have    been    found    in    the 
walls  and   foundations  of    edifices,  among  the 
ruins   of  Eastern  cities,   it   has   been   uhiiuI    hi 
attribute  to  the  structure  a  Roman  origin  ;  and, 
consequently,  to  consider  works  of  this  kind  us 
of  a  date  posterior  to  the  decline  of  the  Eastern 
Empires.     That  this  mode  of  ascertaining  tin: 
age  of  buildings  is  liable  to  error,  may  perhaps 
now    be   evident.     The   statement  of  a  single 
fact,  if  other  satisfactory  evidence  could  not  be 
adduced,   would  be  sufficient  to  prove  the  anti- 
quity of  such  works ;  for  example,   that  of  the 
tilt  or  brick*,  whereby  the  wull  of  Ryrrhu*  wan 
fractured,  when  he  attempted  to  take  the  eity  of 
Argos  by  storm.     Indeed,   in   tome    i/jfctarj<;e», 
the  Raman*,  finding  ziA:*fh\  h\r<j';\vr<;>,  \n  (irwA 
had  gone  to  decay  beotvw;  tf-ey  »!;•*  *^Jt  *jth 
baked  or  crude  tilt*  *&<i  Uri/Jut   s+yi.rt/i    tr^-r^ 
with  different  maenttk.      Of  tbi*  *^ere  it  *-j 


(4)1^4.    VJA./*flM«n.4iM».*.  »■  *  W     JU    Jt*~+ 


490  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  example  recorded  by  Pausamas,  and  already 
v^vw  alluded  to  in  the  account  of  Epxdauria1.  After 
leaving  this  Ruin,  yre  returned  into  the  road; 
and  quitting  the  plain,  bore  off  upon  our  right, 
towards  the  east,  by  a  rocky  ascent  along  the 
channel  of  a  water-course,  towards  the  regal 
Jtywit*.  residence  of  Agamemnon*  and  city  of  Perseus, 
built  before  the  War  of  Troy,  full  thirteen 
centuries  anterior  to  the  Christian  sera.  Already 
the  walls  of  the  Acropolis  began  to  appear 
upon  an  eminence  between  two  lofty  conical 
mountains :  the  place  is  now  called  Carvato. 
Even  its  Ruins  were  unknown  eighteen  hundred 
years  ago,  when  Strabo  wrote  his  account  of  the 
Peloponnesus :  he  says  of  Mycence,  that  not  a 
vestige  of  the  city  remained8.  Eighty  of  its 
heroes  accompanied  the  Spartans  to  the  defile 
of  TTiermopyke,  and  shared  with  them  the  glory 
of  their  immortal  deed3:  this  so  much  excited 
the  jealousy  of  the  sister  city,  Argos,  that  it 
was  never  afterwards  forgiven:  the  A  r gives, 
stung  by  the  recollection   of  the   opportunity 


(1)  Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  27.    See  also  the  preceding  Chapter  of  this 
Volume. 

(2)  "Qert  vvv  fiijd'  tgyo?    tvpicKiaOai    rije  Mvcqvaiwv    voXcitf. 
Straboru  Geog.  lib.  viii.  p.  540.    Ed.  Oxon. 

(3)  Patijan.  Corinth,  c.  16.  p.  146. 


MYCEHM.  491 

they  had  thus  lost  of  signalizing  themselves,  chap. 
and  unable  to  endure  the  superior  fame  ofv^v^ 
their  neighbour,  made  war  against  Mycence,  and 
destroyed  the  city4 :  this  happened  in  the  first 
year  of  the  seventy -eighth  Olympiad5,  nearly  five 
centuries  before  the  birth  of  Christ.  "  In  that 
region,"  says  Pausanias,  "  which  is  called  Argolis, 
nothing  is  remembered  of  greater  antiquity 
than  this  circumstance6/9  It  is  not  merely  the 
circumstance  of  seeing  the  architecture  and  the 
sculpture  of  the  heroic  ages,  which  renders  a 
view  of  Mycerue  one  of  the  highest  gratifications 
a  literary  traveller  can  experience :  the  con- 
sideration of  its  remaining,  at  this  time,  exactly  state  of 
as  Pausanias  saw  it  in  the  second  century,  and 
in  such  a  state  of  preservation  that  an  alto- 
relievo  described  by  him  yet  exists  in  the 
identical  position  he  has  assigned  for  it,  adds 
greatly  to  the  interest  excited  by  these  re- 
markable Ruins :  indeed,  so  singularly  does  the 
whole  scene  correspond  with  his  account  of 
the  place,   that,  in  comparing  them  together, 


(4)  M mnfwag  ik  'Apytloi  caBiCkov  v*6  gjfXorviriac.  Pausan.  ibid. 
(*)  B.  C.  406.    See  Chandler's  Trar.  in  Greece,  p.  290.   Oaf.  1776. 
(6)  'Bv  yap  rjrvw  'ApyoKUt  ovopaZoutvp  rapkv  in  waXaUnpa  oh 
Jftrjjwi'fvovtfiy.    Pausan*  at  tapra,  c  15.  p.  144. 


492  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,   it    might    be    supposed    a    single    hour    had 
»V"J'  'Tint  elapsed    since    he   was  himself  upon    the 
spot. 

The  first  thing  that  we  noticed,  as  we  drew 
Bxtreor-  nigh  to  the  gate  of  the  city,  was  an  antient 
poichre;  Tumulus  of  immense  size,  upon  our  right, 
precisely  similar,  in  its  form  and  covering,  to 
those  conical  sepulchres  so  frequently  the 
subject  of  allusion  in  these  Travels ;  whether 
called  barrows,  cairns,  mounds,  heaps,  or  by 
whatever  other  name,  (as  for  example,  Ttpe 
by  the  Turks,  and  rctyoc  and  x^a  by  the 
Oreeks,)  they  are  now  pretty  well  understood 
to  have  all  of  them  reference  to  a  people  of 
the  most  remote  antiquity  (possibly  the  Cellte), 
and  to  have  been  raised  for  sepulchral  purposes. 
Particular  stress  is  now  laid  upon  this  circum- 
stance, for  reasons  that  will  presently  appear. 
This  Tumulus  has  evidently  been  opened  since 
it  was  first  constructed,  and  thereby  its  interior 
has  been  disclosed  ;  but  at  what  time  this 
happened  is  quite  uncertain ;  probably  in  a 
very  remote  age,  from  the  appearance  it  now 
exhibits.  The  entrance  is  no  longer  concealed : 
like  that  of  a  Tomb  described  in  the  First  Part 
of  these  Travels,  as  found  upon  the   Cimmerian 


MYCBN.fi.  493 

Bosporus,  the  door  is  in  the  side  of  the  sepulchre :    chap. 
md   there  are   steps   in  front  of  it.     A  small 


iperture  in  the  vertex  of  the  cone  has  also 
>een  rendered  visible,  by  the  removal  of  the 
oil;  but  this,  as  well  as  the  entrance  in  the 
tide,  was  once  closed,  when  the  mound  was 
in  tire,  and  the  Tumulus  remained  inviolate.  All 
he  rest  of  the  external  part  is  a  covering  of 
»arth  and  turf ;  such  as  we  see  in  every  country 
inhere  the  Tumuli  appear.  We  ascended  along 
lie  outside  to  the  top :  and  had  it  not  been  for 
lie  circumstances  now  mentioned,  we  should 
lave  considered  it  in  all  respects  similar  to  the 
Tombs  in  the  Plain  of  Troy,  or  in  the  South  of 
Russia,  or  in  any  of  the  Northern  countries  of 
Europe.  But  this  Sepulchre,  among  modern  tra- 
vellers, has  received  the  appellation  of  The  brazen 
Treasury  of  Atreus  and  his  Sons ;  an  assumption  not  the 
requiring  more  of  historical  evidence  in  its  ot  Atreus. 
lupport,  than  has  yet  been  adduced  to  sub- 
stantiate the  fact.  In  the  first  place,  it  may 
)e  asked,  What  document  can  be  urged  to 
wove,  either  that  the  treasury  of  Atreus  was 
frozen,  or  that  this  was  the  treasury?  The 
nrhole  seems  to  rest  upon  the  discovery  of  a 
Pew  bronze  nails  within  the  Sepulchre ;  used  evi- 
dently for  the  purpose  of  fastening  on  something 


494  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,    wherewith  the  interior  surface  of  the  cone  was 

VIII* 

formerly  lined.     But  allowing  that  the  whole  of 
the  inward  sheathing  consisted  of  bronze  plates, 
what  has  this  fact  to  do  with  the  subterraneous 
cells  or  dwellings  (yw6yaia  oiroSofciiftora)  where  the 
treasures  of  Atreus  were  deposited?     Cells  of 
bronze  were  consistent  with  the  antient  customs 
of  dMArgolis ;  there  was  a  Cell  of  this  description 
at  Argos,  used  for  the  incarceration  of  Danae1: 
a  similar  repository   existed  in  the  Citadel  of 
MyceruBj  said  to  have  been  the  hiding-place  of 
Eurystheusj  when  in  fear  of  Hercules9.     But  this 
Sepulchre  is  without  the  walls  of  the  Acropolis ; 
nor  can   it  be  credited  that  any  sovereign  of 
Myceme  would  construct  a  treasury  without  his 
Citadel,  fortified  as  it  was  by   Cyclopean  walls. 
Paicsanias,   by   whom   alone   this  subterraneous 
treasury  of  Atreus  is  mentioned,  clearly  and  in- 
disputably places  it  within  the  Citadel,  close  by 
the   Sepulchre  of  the  same  monarch.     Having 
passed   the  gate  of  the  city,  and  noticed  the 
Lions  over  the  lintel,  he  speaks  of  the  Cyclop6an 
wall  surrounding  the  city,   and   describes  the 


(1)  VM.  Pautan.  in  Corinth,  c.  23.  p.  ie4.    Ed.  KuMniL 
(%)  ApoUodonu,  lib.  ii.  c.  4.    GSett.  1782. 


M  Y  C  E  N  JE.  495 

antiquities  it  enclosed.  "  Among  the  Ruins  of  chap. 
MycentB,"  says  he*,  "  there  is  a  spring  called 
Persia,  and  the  subterraneous  Cells  of  Atreus  and 
of  his  Sons,  where  they  kept  their  treasures: 
and  there  indeed  is  the  Tomb  of  Atreus,  and  of 
all  those  whom,  returning  with  Agamemnon  from 
Troy,  JEgvsthus  slew  at  supper."  Cassandra 
being  of  course  included  among  the  number, 
he  observes,  that  this  circumstance  had  caused 
a  dispute  between  the  inhabitants  of  Mycena 
and  those  of  Amyclce  concerning  the  Monument 
{Mtnjfia)  of  Cassandra,  which  of  the  two  cities 
really  possessed  it.  Then  he  adds,  that  another 
Monument  is  also  there,  that  of  Agamemnon 
himself,  and  of  his  charioteer  Eurymedon :  and 
he  closes  the  chapter,  saying8,  "  The  Sepulchres 
of  Clytcemnestra  and  JEgisthus  are  without  the 
walls;  not  being  worthy  of  a  situation  where 
Agamemnon  and  those  slain  with  him  were  laid/9 
From  these  observations  of  Pausanias  we  learn 


(S)  Mvkiivmv  ik  Iv  toiq  ipf  iirlotf  cpifyif  rk  l<rri  caXov/iiy*  Uipmla, 
gal  *Arpiw£  *ai  rmv  xaiiuv  vw6y<ua  olKodoprjfiara,  iv$a  ol  Oqvavpol 
fffcfft  t&v  gpif/tari*?  ^vav,  t&+oq  &i  l<rrt  /xiv  'Arpiwf,  ilol  Zl  mal  5<rovf 
civ  'Ay a fiipvovt  ixavfjKovrac  IK  'IXiotr  tiuxviffac  tartfdvtvaiv 
AlyieOoQ.    Fautan.  Corinth,  c  \Q.p.  147. 

(4)  KXvraipv  far  pate  4ra^ij*aJ  AlyicBoQ6\iyovair*ripvrov  rti%ovc. 
Irrbc  9k  <ixf^i«W//<rav,  IvOa  'Ayapipvw  rt  avrbc  Utiro  *ai  oi  adv 
iru'vy  fovtvOimc.    Pausan.  ut  supra. 


496 


PELOPONNESUS. 


CvifiP#  two  ^^S8  *  fir8t*  '^at  t*1*8  Sepulchre  could  not 
K~* — '  have  been  the  Treasury  of  Atreus,  because  it  is 
without  the  walls  of  the  Acropolis ;  secondly,  that 
it  cannot  be  the  Monument  (Mvrjpa)  of  Aga- 
memnon, according  to  Pausanias,  because  this 
was  within  the  Citadel.  If  the  names  assigned 
by  him  to  the  different  monuments  of  Mycenm 
may  be  considered  as  duly  authorised  by 
history,  which  perhaps  is  doubtful,  we  might 
Heroum  of  consider  it  as  the  Heroum  of  Perseus,  with  whose 

Perseus.       ...  , 

situation  it  seems  accurately  to  correspond.  As 
soon  as  Pausanias  leaves  the  Citadel,  and  begins 
his  journey  towards  Argos,  the  first  object  no- 
ticed by  him  is  the  Heroum  ;  describing  it  as 
upon  his  left  hand1.  His  account  therefore 
agrees  with  the  position  of  this  magnificent 
Sepulchre,  which  is  worthy  of  being  at  once  both 
the  Tomb  and  the  Temple  of  the  consecrated 
founder  of  Mycence.  Here,  if  we  had  no  other 
document  to  consult  than  the  description  of 
Greece  by  that  author,  we  should  be  compelled 
to  terminate  our  inquiry;  but,  fortunately  for 
our  subject,  we  are  able  to  select  as  a  guide 
upon  this  occasion  a  much  more  antient  writer 
than  Pausanias;  one,  indeed,  who  has  cast  but  a 


(2)  'Ric  Mvnyvfiy  9k  ic'Apyo?  ipgofiivotc  lv  dpurrtpf  U(p4fi*c  wap& 
ri)v  6S6v  itrriv  HPQON.  Pauiamm  Corinthiaca,  c.  18.  |*.  149.  ft 
Kuhnii. 


M  Y  C  E  N  JR.  497 

glimmering  light  among  the  Ruins  of  Mycenae,   chap. 

V  XX  la 

but  every  ray  of  it  is  precious.  It  was  here  ^-v-* 
that  Sophocles  laid  the  scene  of  his  Electra ;  SophoeUs. 
and  evidence  is  afforded,  in  the  present  ap- 
pearance of  the  place,  to  prove  that  his  allusions 
to  the  city  were  founded  upon  an  actual  view  of 
its  antiquities.  When  it  is  recollected  that  these 
allusions  were  made  nearly  six  centuries  before 
the  time  of  Pausanias,  every  inference  fairly 
deducible  from  them  is  entitled  to  consideration. 
It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  Sophocles  was  thirty- 
one  years  of  age  when  Mycenm  was  laid  waste 
by  the  Argives*;  consequently  he  had  ample 
opportunity  of  visiting  the  city  prior  to  that 
event,  and  of  gathering  from  its  inhabitants  the 
circumstances  of  its  antient  history ;  but  Pau- 
Manias  writing  so  long  afterwards,  although  upon 
the  spot,  could  only  collect  from  oral  testimony, 
and  tradition,  his  account  of  the  antiquities: 
indeed  it  has  been  already  shewn,  that,  when 
speaking  of  Mycenae,  he  says  the  inhabitants  of 
Argolis  remembered  nothing  more  antient  than 
the  circumstances  attending  its  downfall3. 


(3)  According  to  the  Arundel  Marbles,  Sophocles  died  B.C.  406,  at 
the  age  of  ninety-one,  sixty  yean  after  the  capture  and  destruction  of 
JfjpttJta  by  the  Ar gives. 

(3)  VkL  Paumn.  Corinth,  c.  15.  p.  144. 

VOL.    VI.  K    K 


498  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.        In  the  beginning  of  the  Electra,  the  prospect  is 
wv^/  described  as  it  was  viewed  by  a  spectator  upon 

Iuteroal  .  . 

ETideoce  hi?  arrival  at  Mycenae ;  and  the  beauties  of  the 
cUs  having  poet  can  only  be  adequately  estimated  by  per- 
spot.  sons  who  have  been  upon  the  spot.  The  best 
commentary  upon  the  drama  itself  would  be  an 
accurate  representation  of  the  very  scene,  as  it 
is  exhibited  to  a  spectator  who  is  placed  before 
the  Propylcea  of  the  Acropolis  of  Mycence.  When 
the  companion  of  Orestes  is  made  to  say,  upon 
coming  to  the  gates,  that  "  Argos  is  present  to 
the  view1,  and  that  the  Herceum  is  upon  the  left 
hand9/'  the  Scholiast  has  been  so  confounded 
as  to  make  of  Argos  and  Mycence  one  city; 
whereas  the  speaker  is  only  describing  what 
the  eye  commands  from  that  situation.  Argos 
is  thence  in  view ;  making  a  conspicuous 
object  upon  the  right  hand3 ;  as  the  Her  (Bum, 
according  to  Pausanias,  also  did  upon  the  left4. 


(1)  Td  y&p,  iraXaibv  "Xpyogt  ov  'wdQttc.,  r6St. 

Sophocl.  Elect,  v.  4.  torn.  I.  p.  176.   Pari*,  1781. 

(2)  ovl  dpiartpac  d'  8£«, 
"Hpac  o  xXttvbc  vafc. 

Ibid.  tt.  11,12.  p.  178. 

(3)  See  Plates  vin.  ix.  facing  pp.  30,  38,  of  G<U'$  Ilin.  of  Greea. 
Land.  1810.  Sir  W.  OelVt  drawing*  afford  a  valuable  commentary 
upon  the  text  of  Sophocles,  in  the  opening  of  the  Blectra. 

(4)  M VKqv&ftr  8k  iv  Apivrtpf,  niim  ^frigci xal  Sixa  ordtta  rd  'Hpa*w- 
Pausania  Corinthiaca,  c.  17.  p.  147.    ed.  Kuhniu 


MYCENJE.  499 

These  were  objects,  naturally  striking  the  chap. 
attention  in  the  noble  prospect  from  the  en-  *^~ 
trance  to  the  city  ;  and  there  could  not  have 
been  an  individual  within  the  Theatre  at  Athens 
when  this  Tragedy  was  presented,  who  had 
ever  visited  Mycence,  that  would  not  have  been 
sensible  of  the  taste  and  accuracy  of  Sophocles, 
in  making  these  remarks.  We  may  now  see 
whether  this  Tumulus  is  not  alluded  to  by 
Sophocles,  and  by  Euripides,  and  its  situation 
distinctly  pointed  out  as  being  on  the  outside 
of  the  gates,  according  to  the  usual  custom 
respecting  Grecian  sepulchres.  But,  previous 
to  this,  it  will  be  necessary  to  state,  that  when 
Sophocles  mentions  the  regal  seat  of  the  Kings  of 
Mycena>>  he  is  not  speaking  of  a  single  building 
answering  to  the  vulgar  notion  of  a  house,  but  of 
the  whole  structure  of  the  fortress,  wherein  they 
resided  ;  a  Citadel ;  resembling  that  of  the 
Krevdin  at  Moscow,  formerly  inhabited  by  Russian 
sovereigns ;  or,  like  the  Tower  of  our  metro- 
polis, where  the  English  monarchs  once  resided. 
It  is  in  this  sense  that  he   uses  the  word   AwjLia*, 


(5) ttfia  TltXowaZv Sopkocl.  Sleet,  w.  10.  Pari$,  1781 . 

?.v  t*  <i  Tarpifov  twpa. Ibid  •  v.  69. 

Ki  rov  rvpdvvov  imfiar   AiyiaOov  raft :     Ibid.  v.  063. 

A'7**»v  Itrut  ru>v&' Ibid.  w.  40. 

« Kara9T&rifiv  tofiw.  Ibid.  v.  72. 

K    K    2 


500  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  with  reference  to  all  the  buildings  inclosed  by 
\^^j  the  Acropolis ;  and  the  gates  of  it  are  called 
A^and  Prapyfa&\  as  in  the  instance  of  the  Athenian 
xIZ*     Citadel     This  will  be  further  evident  when  we 
proceed  to  a  description  of  the  entrance  to  the 
Acropolis;   for  the  gate  is  not  more  distinctly 
alluded  to  by  Pausanias  than  by  Sophocles  him- 
self, as  will  presently  appear.     Orestes,  desirous 
of  bearing  his  vows  to  his  father's  tomb,  repairs 
thither   before  he   enters  the  Propyhsa  ;    and 
JElectra,   who  is  only   permitted  to   leave   the 
Citadel  \n  the  absence  of  JEgisthus,  meets  Chryso- 
thetnis  upon  the  outside  of  the  gates,  carrying  the 
offerings  sent  by   her  mother  to   appease   the 
Tombqf  Manes  of  Agamemnon*.      The   position  of  the 

Agamem-  *  r 

non.  Sepulchre  seems,  therefore,  in  all  respects,  to 
coincide  with  that  of  the  Tumulus  we  are  now 
describing  ;  but  the  words  of  Sophocles  are  also 
decisive  as  to  its  form  ;  for  the  Tomb  of  Aga- 
memnon is  not  only  called  r«tyoc,  but  also  koA*5viis: 
and  as,  in  this  Tragedy,   the  poet  adapted  bis 


(1)  Sophocl.  Elect,  v.  1391.     Id  v.  I486,  &gitthus  commands  the 
gates  (xvXac)  to  be  thrown  open. 

(3)  TiV  av  <tv  ri}vli  IIP02  6YPQN02  llotoic 

' EX 9  ova  a  fwvtlc,  w  ca<riyvr)rij,^artv; 

Ibid.  vv.  330,  331.  torn.  I.  p.  SIS. 
(3)  'Ejt«  yap  r,\9oy  irarpoc  APXAION  rafov, 

'Op*  KOAQXHS  IK  dcpac  vcofSpvrot* 
Ufiytkf  yakaKToc,  rai  TtpuTTifij  rvcXy 
USlvtuv  &<r'  ivriv  AvQimv  9^*  rarpk.  Ibid.  r.  800.  p.  ***• 


MYCENJL  501 

description  to  a  real  scene,  and  to  existing  chap. 
objects,  there  seems  reason  to  believe  that,  in  \^w 
his  time  at  least,  this  remarkable  Sepulchre  was 
considered  by  the  inhabitants  of  Mycence  as  the 
Tomb  of  Agamemnon;  although  described  by 
Pausanias  rather  as  the  Heroum  of  Perseus.  But 
the  most  striking  evidence  for  the  situation  of 
the  Tomb  of  Agamemnon  occurs  in  the  Electra  of 
Euripides.  When  Orestes,  in  that  tragedy,  relates 
to  Py lades  his  nocturnal  visit  to  the  sepulchre  of 
his  father,  it  is  expressly  stated  that  he  repaired 
thither  without  entering  within  the  walls4.  Possibly, 
therefore,  the  known  existence  of  this  Tumulus, 
and  of  its  form  and  situation,  suggested  both  to 
Sophocles  and  to  Euripides  their  allusions  to  the 
Tomb  of  Agamemnon,  and  to  the  offerings  made 
by  Orestes  at  his  father's  sepulchre.  The  Reader, 
after  a  perusal  of  the  facts,  will,  of  course, 
adopt  his  own  conjecture.  We  shall  now  pro- 
ceed to  a  further  description  of  the  Monument 
itself. 

Having  descended   from   the   top   of    it,    we  interior 
repaired  to  the  entrance,  upon  its  eastern  side.  Tumuiu*. 


(4)  Nvrrorfi  rrjcdi  irpof  r&Qov  fioXwv  warpbc, 

k  .  r.  X. 

KAI  TEIXEQN  MEN  ENT02  OY  BAINQ  nOAA  .  .  . 
Euripidit  Electra,  y.  90.  p.  409.  ed.  Barnes  Cantab.  1604. 


502  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.    Some    steps,   whereof    the    traces    are   visible. 

VIII.  . 

v^^z-O  originally  conducted  to  the  door.  This  entrance, 
built  with  all  the  colossal  grandeur  of  Cyclopean 
architecture  is  covered  by  a  mass  of  breccia,  of 
such  prodigious  size,  that  were  it  not  for  the 
testimony  of  others  who  have  since  visited  the 
Tomb,  an  author,  in  simply  stating  its  dimen- 
sions, might  be  supposed  to  exceed  the  troth. 
The  door  itself  is  not  more  than  ten  feet  wide ; 
and  it  is  shaped  like  the  windows  and  doors  of 
the  Egyptian  and  earliest  Grecian  buildings, 
wider  at  the  bottom  than  at  the  top  ;  forming  a 
passage  six  yards  long,  covered  by  two  stones. 

Enormous  The  slab  now  particularly  alluded  to,  is  the 
innermost  entablature  ;  lying  across  the  uprights 
of  the  portal  ;  extending  many  feet  into  the 
walls  of  the  Tomb,  on  either  side.  This  vast 
lintel  is  best  seen  by  a  person  standing  within 
the  Tomb,  who  is  looking  back  towards  the 
entrance1  :  it  consists  of  a  coarse-grained 
breccia,  finished  almost  to  a  polish  :  and  the 
same  siliceous  aggregate  may  be  observed  in 
the  mountains  near  MycencB,  as  at  Athens.  We 
carefully  measured  this  mass,  and  found  it  to 
equal  twenty-seven  feet  in  length,  seventeen, 
feet   in    width,   and    four   feet  seven   inches  in 


(1)  See  Plate  VI.  of  Gell's  I  tin.  of  Greece,  facing  p.  34.  Lond.  1810. 


MYC  £K£.  503 

thickness.     There  are  other  stones  also  of  im-  chap. 

VIII- 

mense  size  within  the  Tomb;  but  this  is  the 
most  considerable  ; .  and  perhaps  it  may  be 
mentioned  as  the  largest  slab  of  hewn  stone  in 
the  world*.  Over  this  entrance  there  is  a  tri- 
angular aperture ;  the  base  of  the  triangle  co- 
inciding with  the  lintel  of  the  portal,  and  its  ver- 
tex terminating  pyramidically  upwards,  so  as  to 
complete,  with  the  inclining  sides  of  the  door, 
an  acute,  or  lancet  arch.  This  style  of  archi- 
tecture, characterizing  all  the  buildings  of 
MyceruB  and  of  Tiryns,  is  worthy  of  particular 
attention  ;  for  without  dwelling  upon  any  nuga- 
tory distinctions  as  to  the  manner  wherein 
such  arches  were  constructed  ;  whether  by 
projecting  horizontal  courses  of  stone,  or  by 
the  latter  invention  of  the  curvature  exemplified 
in  all  the  older  Saracenic  buildings',  it  is  evident 
that  the  acute  or  lancet  arch  is,  in  fact,  the  oldest 
form  of  arch  known  in  the  world ;  and  that 
examples  of  it  may  be  referred  to,  in  buildings 


(2)  Excepting  only  Pompey's  Pillar:  bat  this  is  of  a  different  form, 
being  not  to  wide  although  much  longer.  The  famous  pedestal  of  the 
statue  of  Peter  the  Great,  at  Petersburg,  often  described  as  an  entire 
mass  of  granite,  consists  of  several  pieces. 

(3)  See  "  Two  Letter*  on  the  subject  of  Gothic  Architecture,"  bj  the 
Her.  John  Haggitt ;  Camb.  1813 ;  wherein  the  Eastern  origin  of  the 
"  Pointed  Style*1  is  clearly  demonstrated. 


504  PELOPONNBflUS. 

chap,   erected  before  the  War  of  Troy.    The  use  of 
vin. 

the  triangular  aperture  above  the  portal  is  satis- 


factorily  explained  by   the   appearance  of  the 
Gate  of  Mycena,  where  a  similar  opening  is 
filled  by  a  triangular  piece  of  sculpture  in  alUh 
uteofthe  relievo.     The   cause  of  placing  such  tablets  in 
Caritj11"  such   situations   may  be  shewn  by  reference  to 
Stance!  exiting  superstition  ;  they  were  severally  what 
a  Russian  of  the   present  day  would   call  the 
Obraze  or  Bogh ;  an  idolatrous  type  or  symbol 
of  the  mythology  of  the  country.     Sophocles,  in 
the  description  he  affords  of  Mycena,   alludes 
to    this    ancient    custom,    as    will     afterwards 
appear.      Having    passed    the     entrance,    and 
being  arrived  within  the  interior  of  the  tomb, 
we   were  much  struck   by  the  grandeur  of  its 
internal  appearance.     Here  we  found  that  what 
appears  externally  to  be  nothing  more  than  a 
high  conical  mound  of  earth,  contains  within  it 
a  circular  chamber  of  stone,  regularly  built,  and 
chamber,  terminating   above  in  a    conical   dome,    corre- 
sponding with  the  exterior  shape  of  the  tumulus. 
Its  form  has  been  aptly  compared  to  that  of  an 
English  bee-hive1.      The  interior   superficies  of 
the  stone  was  once  lined  either  with   metal  or 


(l)TTie  Greek  bee-hives  have  a  different  form:  they  are  generally 
cj  lindrical. 


If  YCEKiL  505 

with  marble  plates,  fastened  on  by  bronze  nails :    chap. 

.  .  VIII, 

many  of  which  now  remain  as  they  were 
originally  driven  into  the  sides.  These  nails 
have  been  analyzed,  and  proved  to  consist  of 
capper  and  tin* :  the  metal  is  therefore,  properly 
speaking,  the  \a\*oc  of  Homer*  or  bronze;  a 
compound  distinguished  from  the  orichalcum*, 
or  brass  of  later  ages,  which  consisted  of  copper 
and  zinc  We  had  scarcely  entered  beneath  the 
dome,  before  we  observed,  upon  the  right  hand, 
another  portal,  leading  from  the  principal 
chamber  of  the  tomb  to  an  interior  apartment 
of  a  square  form  and  smaller  dimensions.  .The 
door- way  to  this  had  the  same  sort  of  triangular 
aperture  above  it  that  we  had  noticed  over  the 
main  entrance  to  the  sepulchre;  and  as  it  was 
nearly  closed  to  the  top  with  earth,  we  stepped 


(2)  In  the  proportion  of  eighty- eight  parts  of  copper  added  to 
twelve  of  tin,  according  to  their  analysis  by  Mr.  Hatchett.  The  same 
constituent*,  nearly  in  the  same  proportion,  exist  in  all  very  antient 
bronze.  The  celebrated  W.  H.  Wollaston,  M.D.  Secretary  to  the 
Royal  Society,  analyzed  some  bronze  arrow-heads  of  great  antiquity 
farad  near  KremencMck  in  the  South  of  Russia,  and  observed  the 
same  compound  of  copper  and  tin.  Possibly  the  most  antient  brorae 
may  be  derived  from  a  native  alloy  consisting  of  the  two  metals  in  this 
state  of  combination. 

(3)  See  Watson's  Chemical  Essays,  vol.  IV.  p.  85,  et  seq.  Camb. 
1766,  where  the  learned  author  ingeniously  proves  that  the  orichalcum 
of  the  Romans  was  a  metallic  substance  analogous  to  our  compound 
of  copper  and  sine ;  or  brass. 


606  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  into  the  triangular  cavity  above  the  lintel,  that 
we  might  look  down  into  the  area  of  this  inner 
chamber ;  but  here  it  was  too  dark  to  discern 
any  thing.  Being  afraid  to  venture  into  a  place 
of  unknown  depth,  we  collected  and  kindled  a 
fagot  of  dry  bushes,  and,  throwing  this  in  a 
blaze  to  the  bottom,  we  saw  that  we  might 
easily  leap  down  and  examine  the  whole  cavity. 
The  diameter  of  the  circular  chamber  is  sixteen 
yards ;  but  the  dimensions  of  the  square 
apartment  do  not  exceed  nine  yards  by  seven. 
We  did  not  measure  the  height  of  the  dome ; 
but  the  elevation  of  the  vertex  of  the  cone, 
from  the  floor  in  its  present  state,  is  said  to  be 
about  seventeen  yards1. 

After  leaving  this  sepulchre,  the  Cyclopia* 
walls  of  Mycenae,  extending  to  a  short  distance 
in  a  parallel  projection  from  the  entrance  to  the 
Citadel,  pointed  out  to  us  the  approach  to  the 
gate  on  this  side ;  which  is  built  like  Stonehengt, 
with  two  uprights  of  stone,  and  a  transverse 
entablature  of  the  same  massive  construction. 
Above  this  is  a  triangular  repository  similar  to 
those  already  described  within  the  tomb ;  but 


( 1)  See  GelVt  I  tin.  of  Greece,  p.  30.    Land.  1810. 


MYC£N£.  507 

instead    of    being    empty    as    in    the   former   chap. 

VIII. 

instances,  it  is  entirely  filled  by  a  enormous  alto-  v^v**' 
relievo,  upon  a  stone  block  of  a  triangular  form ; 
exhibiting  two  Lions,  or  rather  Panthers,  standing  LmmUu 
like  the  supporters  of  a  modern  coat  of  arms. 
This  is  the  identical  piece  of  sculpture  noticed 
■by  Pausanias  as  being  over  the  gate  of  the 
Citadel*.  But  the  mention  he  has  made  of  it 
does  not  appear  to  have  been  the  only  instance 
where  this  curious  specimen  of  the  sculpture  of 
the  heroic  ages  is  noticed  by  antient  writers. 
The  allusions  to  a  real  scene  in  the  Electro,  of 
Sophocles  have  beeu  recently  stated ;  and  while 
we  now  shew  that  the  same  drama  has  also 
preserved  the  record  of  a  very  curious  super- 
stition, it  will  likewise  appear  that  this  re- 
markable monument  of  the  antient  mythology 
of  Mycence  did  not  escape  his  notice.  Orestes, 
before  entering  the  Citadel,  speaks  of  worship- 
ping the  statues  of  the  Gods  of  the  country 
which  are  stationed  in  the  Propyloea*.  The 
antient  custom  of  consecrating  gates,  by  placing 


(4)  Aiiwtrai  8k  8/iwg  In  xal  dXKa  rov  TtpifiSXov,  *ai  17  jrvX?- 
A  BOOTES  ik  l+t<rrijKa<Tiv  airj.  Pautan.  Corinth,  c.  16.  p.  146. 
ed.  KuhniL 

(5)  xarpifa  xpooKvaavO'  Itq 

Oiwv,  8 (to t Tip  wp6irv\a  vaiovoivratt. 

Sophocl.  EUct.  t.  1901.  torn.  I.  p.  328.    Par.  1781. 


608  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,   sacred  images  above  them,  has  existed  in  ever 

VIII.  . 

v^v^,  period  of  history  ;  and  it  is  yet  retained  in  some 
countries.  There  is  still  a  holy  gate  belonging 
to  the  Kremlin  at  Moscow;  and  the  practice 
here  alluded  to  is  daily  exemplified  in  the 
Russian  city,  by  all  who  enter  or  leave  the 
Citadel  through  that  gate.  Every  thing  there- 
fore;  conspires  to  render  the  Ruins  of  Mycena, 
and  especially  of  this  entrance  to  the  Acropolis, 
preeminently  interesting  ;  whether  we  consider 
their  venerable  age,  or  the  allusions  made  to 
them  in  such  distant  periods  when  they  were 
visited  by  the  Poets  and  Historians  of  Greece 
as  the  classical  antiquities  of  their  country; 
or  the  indisputable  examples  they  afford  of 
the  architecture,  sculpture,  mythology,  and 
rioMMd  customs  of  the  heroic  ages.  The  walls  of 
Sonofthe  Mycence,  like  those  of  the  Citadels  of  Argos 
Propyiasa.  ancj  Tiryns,  were  of  Cyclopean  masonry,  and 
its  gates  denote  the  same  gigantic  style  of 
structure.  Any  person  who  has  seen  the  sort 
of  work  exhibited  by  Stonehenge,  and  by  many 
other  Celtic  remains  of  a  similar  nature,  will  be 
at  no  loss  to  figure  to  his  imagination  the 
uprights  and  the  lintels  of  the  Gates  of  Mycenm. 
We  endeavoured  to  measure  those  of  the  prin- 
cipal entrance,  over  which  the  leonine  images  are 
placed.     The  length  of  the  lintel  equals  fifteen 


MYCENiE.  509 

feet  two  inches ;  its  breadth,  six  feet  nine  chap. 
inches ;  and  its  thickness,  four  feet :  and  it  is  v^vw 
of  one  entire  mass  of  stone.  The  two  uprights 
supporting  this  enormous  slab  might  afford  still 
ampler  dimensions  ;  but  these  are  almost  buried 
in  the  soil  and  rubbish  which  have  accumulated 
below  so  as  to  reach  nearly  to  the  lintel.  Above 
this  lintel  stands  the  remarkable  piece  of  sculp- 
ture alluded  to  by  Sophocles1  and  by  Pausanias1. 
It  therefore  requires  a  distinct  examination,  and 
a  very  particular  description.  The  last  of 
these  authors,  in  the  passage  before  cited,  has  Mytho- 
called  the  two  animals,  there  represented,  Symbols. 
loans;  but  they  are  evidently  Panthers,  or 
Tigers ;  the  more  appropriate  emblems  of  that 
branch  of  the  Heathen  Mythology  which  was 
peculiarly  venerated  by  the  inhabitants  of 
Mycenat.  This  piece  of  sculpture  is,  as  before 
stated,  an  alto-relievo  of  a  triangular  form ;  the 
base  of  the  triangle  resting  upon  the  lintel  of 
the  gate j  and  its  top  pointing  upwards,  in  such 
a  manner,  that  a  perpendicular  line  bisecting 


(1)  Vid.  Sopkocl.  Elect.  ▼.  1391. 

(«)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinth,  c.  16.  p.  14G.  ed.  KuhniL 

(3)  Ibid.    See  the  words  of  Pausanias  in  a  former  Note. 

(4)  Vid.  Sophocl.  Elect,  passim. 


510  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,   the  angle  of  the  vertex   would  also  divide  the 

VJ11. 

— ^^  lintel  into  two  equal  pajts.  Such  a  line  has 
been  used  by  the  antient  sculptor  for  the  po- 
sition of  a  pillar  exactly  resembling  a  sepulchral 
Stile y  resting  upon  a  pedestal  over  the  lintel; 
but  this  pillar  is  most  singularly  inverted,  the 
major  diameter  of  the  shaft  being  placed  up- 
permost ;  so  that,  contrary  to  every  rule  we 
are  acquainted  with  respecting  antient  pillars, 
its  diameter  is  less  towards  the  base  than  at 
the  capital.  As  to  the  order  of  architecture 
denoted  by  this  pillar,  it  is  rather  Tuscan  than 
Doric ;  and  it  is  remarkably  ornamented  by  four 
balls,  placed  horizontally  above  the  Abacus. 
There  is  also  a  circular  ornament,  or  Orb,  in 
the  front  of  the  pedestal,  which  is  a  double 
Torus.  The  pillar  is  further  supported  by  two 
Panthers  ;  one  standing  erect  on  either  side  of 
it,  with  his  hinder  feet  upon  the  lintel,  but  with 
his  two  fore-paws  upon  the  pedestal  of  the 
pillar.  The  heads  of  these  animals  seem  to  have 
been  originally  raised,  fronting  each  other, 
above  the  capital ;  where  they  probably  met, 
and  occupied  the  space  included  by  the  vertex 
of  the  triangle  ;  but  they  have  been  broken  off, 
and  no  part  of  them  is  now  to  be  seen.  The 
two  Panthers,  thus  placed   on   the  two  sides  of 


MTCEKJ2.*  511 

the  pillar,  exactly  resemble  the  supporters  used  chap. 
in  heraldry  for  an  armorial  ensign1.     The  di-  v^^, 
mensions  of  this  alto-relievo  are  as  follows :  the 
height  nine  feet  eight  inches ;  the  width,  in  the 
broadest  part  towards  the  base  of  the  triangle, 
eleven   feet  nine   inches ;    the  thickness  of  the 
slab,  one   foot   ten   inches.       The  stone  itself 
exhibits  upon  one  side  of  it,  evident  marks  of 
a  saw  ;  but  it  is  in  other  respects   extremely 
rude.     As  it  has  been  fortunately  preserved  in 
its  pristine  situation,  it  serves  to   explain  the 
nature  of  the  triangular  cavities  above  the  doors 
in  the  tomb  we  have  so  lately  described  ;  proving 
that  they  were   each   similarly   occupied  by   a 
sacred  tablet  of  the  same  pyramidal  or  triangular 
form.      We   have   before  seen   that  the  whole 
inclosure  of  the  Acropolis  of   Athens  was  one 
vast   shrine  or    consecrated  peribolus;   and    the 
Citadel  of  Mycencs  upon   a  smaller  scale   was 
probably   of   the  same  nature.      These  <€t&fete9  SSST 
therefore,  were  the  Hiera,  at  the  Gates  of  the  holy  Gltei' 
places  before  which  the  people  worshipped.     Of 
the  homage  so  rendered  at  the  entering  in  of 
sanctuaries,  we   find   frequent    allusion   in   the 
Scriptures.     It  is  said  in  JSzekiel*,  that  "the 


(1)  See  the  Vignette  to  thU  Chapter. 

(2)  Etekiei  xhi.  3. 


512  Peloponnesus, 

chap.   people  of  the    land  shall    worship    at  the 

VIII.  T 

DOOR    OF   THE    GATE    BEFORE   THE    LORD,    IN    THE 

SABBATHS,    AND    IN     THE     NEW    MOONS:"     and    in 

the  sublime  song  of  the  sons  of  Korah1,  the  Gates 
of  the   Acropolis  of  Jerusalem,  owing  to  their 
sanctity,  are  described  as  of  more  estimation  in 
the  sight  of  God,    "than    all  the  dwellings  of 
Jacob/'      Mycence  has  preserved  for  us,    in  a 
state  of  admirable  perfection,  a  model   of  one 
of  the  oldest    Citadels  of  the  world  j    nor  can 
there  be  found  a  more  valuable  monument  for 
the   consideration     of    the   scholar    profoundly 
versed  in  the  history  of  antient  art,  than  these 
precious   relics    of    her    Propylcea,    exhibiting 
examples    of  sculpture   more   antient  than   the 
Trojan   War,  and  of  the    style   of  fortification 
used  in   the   heroic    ages ;  and   also   a  plan  of 
those  Gates,  where  not  only  religious  ceremonies 
were   performed,  but  also    the     courts   of  judi- 
cature were   held*.     For  this    purpose,    it   was 
necessary  that   there  should   be  a  paved  court, 
or  open    space,   in   front  of  the  Propylcea ;    as 


(I)  Psalms  \xxx\W.  2. 

(3)  Vide  Chronicon  Par  turn,  Epoch  5.  where  the  place  of  Council 
for  the  A  mphictyones  is  called  UvXaia.  Suidas  pays,  that  not  only  the 
place  (6  tSttoc.,)  but  the  Assembly  itself,  had  this  name.  ( Vid.  SuuL  in 
voc.  UvXayopai  )    See  also  Job  xxix.  7.  Pf.lxix.  12,  &c. 


HTCBNA.  513 

it  was  here  that  kings  and   magistrates  held   chap. 

VIII. 

their  sittings    upon     solemn    occasions.      It  is   %^vw 
said  of  the  kings  of  Israel  and  Judah,  that  they 
sat  on  their  thrones  in   a  void  place?,  in  the 

ENTRANCE    OF    THE    GATES    OP    SaMARIA,    where 
ALL    THE     PROPHETS     PROPHESIED   BEFORE   THEM. 

The  Gate  of  Mycenee  affords  a  perfect  commen- 
tary upon  this  and  similar  passages  of  Scripture ; 
the  walls  of  the  Acropolis  project  in  parallel 
lines  before  the  entrance,  forming  the  sort  of 
area,  or  oblong  court,  before  the  Propykea,  to 
which  allusion  is  thus  made  ;  and  it  is  in  this 
open  space  before  the  Citadel  that  Sophocles  has 
laid  the  scene  in  the  beginning  of  his  Electra. 
The  Markets  were  always  in  these  places4,  as  it 
is  now  the  custom  before  the  Gates  of  Acre,  and 
many  other  towns  in  the  East:  hence  it  is 
probable,  that,  in  the  mention  made  by  So- 
phocles of  the  Lycean  Fonim5,  he  is  not 
alluding  to  one  of  the  public  Fora  of  Argos, 
but  to  the  Py  lag  or  a  or  Market-place  at  the  Gate  or  the 
of  Mycenee,  whose  inhabitants,  in  common  with  v 
all  the  Argives,  worshipped  the  Lycean  Apollo. 


(9)  Or  floor,  according  to  the  Hebrew.    See  1  Kings  xxil.  10. 
(4)  Set  2  Kings  I.  18. 

(6)         Afirif  £*,  'Opiora  rov  \vko*tovov  0§ov 
'Ayopd  A  $««>£.— 

Soph.  Elect.  ▼.  fl.  pp.  176, 178.  torn.  I.  Paris,  1781. 

VOL.    VI.  I-    L 


614  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.   The  same  author  makes  the  worship  of  Apollo, 

VIII* 


>/^r  or  the  Sun,  the  peculiar  mythology  of  the  city1; 
of  th*  Sun.  and  it  is  confirmed  by  the  curious  symbols  of 
the  Propyfea,  before  which    Orestes  pays  his 
adoration*.    Apollo,  as  a  type  of  the  Sun,  was  the 
same  divinity  as  Bacchus ;  and  the  two  Panthers 
supporting    the  pillar  represent    a  species    of 
animal  well  known  to  have  been  sacred  to  the 
S^  Indian  Bacchus.     This  divinity,  also,  the  Osiris 
rtot,C8,      of  Egypt,  was  often  represented  by  the  simple 
type  of  an  orb ;  hence  the  introduction  of  the 
orbicular    symbols :  and    among    the    different 
forms  of  images  set  up  by  antient  nations  in 
honour  of  the  Sun,  that  of  a  pillar  is  known  to 
have  been  one.     There  was  an  image  of  Apollo 
which  had  this  form  at  Amycke*;  and  the  Sun- 
images  mentioned  in  the  Sacred  Scriptures  seem 
to  have  been  of  the  same  nature.     In  the  book 
of  the  Jewish  Law,  immediately  preceding  the 
passage  where  the  Israelites  are  commanded  to 
abstain  from  the  worship  of  "  the  sun,  or  moon, 
or  any  of  the  host  of  heaven,"  it  is  forbidden 
to  them  to  set  up  any  idolatrous  pillar*.    All 


(1)  8oph.  Bled.  ▼.  HKB,  c  r.  X. 

(2)  Ibid.  t.  1801. 

(8)  Vid.  Pautan.  in  Laconic,  c.  19.  p.  857.  ed.  KuhnU. 
(4)  Deuteronomy,  xwi.  22 ;  x?U.  3. 


MTCKNJfi.  616 

the  superstitions  and  festivities  connected  with  chap. 
the  JDionysia  came  into  Ghreece  with  Danaus  from  ^v^/ 
Egypt?.  The  cities  of  Argolis  are,  consequently, 
of  all  places  the  most  likely  to  retain  vestiges 
of  these  antient  orgies ;  and  the  orbicular  sym- 
bols consecrated  to  the  Sun,  together  with 
the  pyramidal  form  of  the  tablets,  the  style 
of  architecture  observable  in  the  walls  of 
Mycena,  and  the  magnificent  remains  of  the 
sepulchres  of  her  kings,  all  associate  with  our 
recollections  of  Egypt,  and  forcibly  direct  the 
attention  towards  that  country.  That  the  rites 
of  Apollo  at  Mycence  had  reference  to  the 
worship  of  the  Sun  is  a  circumstance  beau- 
tifully and  classically  alluded  to  by  Sophocles ; 
who  introduces  Electra  hailing  the  holy  light?, 
and  calling  the  swallow  Messenger  of  the  God7, 
because,  being  the  herald  of  the  coming  spring, 
it  was  then  held  sacred,  as  it  now  is  in  that 
country. 


(6)  According  to  Plutarch,  the  Dionysia  were  the  nme  with  the 
Egyptian  Pamylia.  Tj)v  9k  r£v  HAMYAIQN  loprjv  dyovrte, 
(£**cp  uptjrai)  faXXuri)v  t&aav,  c.  r.  X.  Plat,  de  Itid.  et  Otir.  cap. 
86.  Franco/.  1590.  For  the  ^Egyptian  origin  of  these  festivals,  see 
also  Herodot.  lib.  ii.  The  Orgia,  and  Triettrica,  come  from  Thrace,  hat 
they  were  originally  from  JEgypt.    See  Diod.  Sic,  vol.  J.  pp.  239,  848.  * 

(6)  TQ  faoc.  ayvor.  Sophod.  BUct.  ▼.  SO.  p.  1S6.  torn.  I.  Paris,  1781. 

(7)  A<*c  ayyiXog.     Ibid.  r.  149. 

L    L    2 


Walls  of 


5 16  P  BLOPONNESUS. 

vmP'       This  gate    faces    the  north-wesL     After  we 
had   passed   it,  we  followed  the  circuit  made 
bv  the   walls  around   the  hill  of  the    CUadeL 
These  consist  of  huge  unhewn  masses  of  stone, 
so  fitted  and  adapted  to  each  other  as  to  have 
given  rise  to  an  opinion  that  the  power  of  man 
was    inadequate    to    the    labour    necessary   in 
building  them.     Hence  the  epithet  of  CyclopSan, 
bestowed    upon    them     by    different    authors1. 
The  Peribolus  they  inclose  is  oblong,  and  about 
three    hundred    and    thirty    yards    in   length. 
Upon    the    northern  side   are  the   remains  of 
another  portal,  quite    as    entire    as    that    we 
have  already  described,  and  built  in  the  same 
manner ;  excepting  that  a  plain  triangular  mass 
of  stone  rests  upon  the   lintel  of   the  gateway, 
instead  of  a  sculptured  block  as  in  the  former 
Antient     instance.       We  saw   within  the   walls  of   the 
Citadel   an   antient    cistern,    which    had   been 
hollowed   out  of   the   breccia  rock,   and   lined 
with  stucco.     The  Romans  had  no  settlement  at 
Mycencs ;    but  such  is  the  state  of  preservation 


Cittern. 


(1)  KvcXwvcuxv  fcokiv  (in  EwrtpidL  HtrcuU  Furcnte).  KmcXw*" 
Bv/dkag  (Ipkigen.  in  Aul.)  KvcXttirua  ovpavia  rei^ij  (in  Sofkod* 
JSUct.)  Kvk\*w*v  H  cai  ravra  ipya  tlrai  Xiyoveiv.  Paul***  ** 
Coring,  c.  16.    p.  146.  ed.  Kukniu 


MTCENJB.  5 17 

in  which  the  cement  yet  exists  upon  the  'sides  chap. 
of  this  reservoir,  that  it  b  difficult  to  explain  the 
cause  of  Its  perfection  after  so  many  centuries. 
Similar  excavations  may  be  observed  in  the 
Acropein  of  Argot ;  also  npon  the  Mount  of 
Olives  near  to  Jerusalem ;  and  among  the  remains 
of  the  antient  cities  of  Taurica  Chersonesus, 
particularly  in  the  rocks  above  the  Portus  Sym- 
bolorum.  The  porous  nature  of  breccia  rocks 
may  serve  to  explain  the  use  and  perhaps  the 
absolute  necessity  of  the  stucco  here ;  and  it 
may  also  illustrate  the  well-known  fable  con- 
cerning those  porous  vessels  which  the  Dandides 
were  doomed  to  fill  ;  probably  alluding  to  the 
cisterns  of  Argos  which  the  daughters  of  Danaus 
were  compelled  to  supply  with  water,  according 
to  the  usual  employment  of  women  in  the  East. 
The  other  antiquities  of  Mycenae  must  remain 
for  the  more  attentive  examination  of  future 
travellers ;  who,  as  it  is  hoped,  will  visit  the 
Ruins  provided  with  the  necessary  implements 
for  making  researches,  where,  with  the  slightest 
precaution,  they  will  be  little  liable  to  inter- 
ruption on  the  part  of  the  Turks :  the  place 
being  as  destitute  of  inhabitants,  and  almost 
as  little  known  or  regarded,  as  it  was  in  the 
time    of    Strabo ;    when  it   was   believed  that 


518  M  Y  C  E  N  jE. 

chap,  not  a  vestige  of  MyceruB  could  be  found.  The 
inducement  towards  such  inquiries  is  of  no 
common  nature:  whatever  may  be  discovered 
will  relate  to  the  history  of  a  city  which  ceased 
to  be  inhabited  long  before  the  Macedonian 
conquest,  and  to  the  manners  of  a  people 
coeval  with  JEschylus>  with  Sophocles,  and  with 
Euripides. 


CHAP.  IX. 


PELOPONNESUS. 


Journey  to  Nemea — Defile  of  Tretus — Cave  of 
the  Nemesean  Lion — Fountain  of  Arcbemorus 
— Temple  of  the  Nemeaean  Jupiter — Alba- 
nians— Monument  of  Lycurgus — Neraeaean 
River — Apesas — Sicyonian  Plain  — Sicyon— 
Theatre — Prospect  from  the  Coilon — Stadium 
— Temple  of  Bacchus — Other  Antiquities — 
Medals — Paved  Way — Fertility  of  the  Land 
— Corinth — Fountain  of  the  Nymph  Pirene — 
Sisypbeum — Temple  q/'Octavia — Visit  to  the 
Governor — Odeum — Climate  of  Corinth. 

After  leaving  Mycenae,    we  again  descended   chap/ 
towards  the  Plain  of  Argos1,  lying  westward;  v^yv 
and  coming  to  a  village  called   Carvati,  made  a  ^JJJJJJjJ  to 


(1)  "We  descended  from  Myeetut  into  the  rich  plain  of  Argot ;  not 
now  deterring  the  epithet  of  i*-ro'/3oroc,  for  the  hones  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood are  beyond  measure  miserable."—  CoUmil  Squirt's  MS.  Cor- 
retponcUnce. 


520 


PELOPONNESUS. 


CHAP. 
IX. 


Defile  of 
Tretus. 


hearty  meal  upon  eggs  and  coffee.     We  carried 
with  us  an  introductory  letter  to  a  person  named 
Andriano,    who  had   discovered,   as  we  were 
informed,  another  Tomb  at  MyceruB,  similar  to 
the  one  we  have  described ;   but  we  could  not 
find  him,  and  the  people  of  the  village  knew 
nothing  of   it      We    therefore  continued  our 
journey  northward  for  Nemea.     As  this  route 
lies   out    the    antient    road    from    Corinth    to 
Argos,  (which  did  not  pass  through  Nemea,)  the 
objects  noticed   by  Pausanias,  in  the  beginning 
of  that  part  of  his  second  book  which  he  calls 
Argolica,  do  not  occur.     The  city  of  Ckona 
was    ooe    of    this    number1 ;     whose     remains 
have  been  observed  in  the  road  to  Corinth,  and 
at  ten  miles  distance  from  that  city9.     The  road 
from  Mycence  to  Nemea  coincides  with  the  road 
to  Corinth  for  a  short  distance    after   leaving 
Carvati ;    but    upon    reaching  the   mountains, 
which  separate   the  two    plains  of    Argos  and 
Nemea,    it    bears    off    by    a    defile    across   a 
mountain  towards  the  west.     Some   allusion  to 


(1)  'E*  KopivQov  £'  tig  "Apyoc  Ipxopivy  K\i*val  voXif  lerlv  oh 
usyaKn.    Pausan.  in  Corinth,  c.  15.  p.  143.    ed.  KuhmL 

(3)  Chandler  found  them  upon  a  hill  in  the  direct  road  from  Arget  to 
Corinth.    See  Chandler's  Travels  in  Greece,  eh.  67.  p.  834.     Offer* 
1776. 


JOURNEY  TO  NUIBA.  521 

its  defile  occurs  in  Pausanias,  and  to  its  devia-  chap. 
od  from  the  main  road :  he  says  there  were 
wo  ways  of  going  from  CleoruB  to  Argos;  one 
f  them  by  Tretus*  a  narrow  and  a  circuitous 
ray,  but  the  best  carriage  road  of  the  two*. 
uB  we  entered  this  defile,  we  travelled  by  the 
ide  of  a  rivulet  of  very  clear  water,  through 
roods  which  were  once  the  haunts  of  the 
imoas  Nememan  Lion,  The  only  animals  we 
aw  were  some  very  fine  tortoises.  We  passed 
ne  or  two  huts,  inhabited  by  wild-looking 
dlows,  who  told  us  they  were  the  guards  of 
lie  pass.  They  offered  us  water,  and  we  gave 
besi  a  few  paras.  Near  this  place  we  observed 
be  remains  of  the  old  road  alluded  to  by 
*au$anias,  in  his  account  of  this  defile  :  the 
aarks  of  wheels  were  yet  visible ;  the  surface 
f  the  stone  being  furrowed  into  ruts;  which 
aust  have  been  worn  by  the  wheels  of  antient 
arriages4 ;    because   vehicles  of  this  kind  are 


(8)  'E*  KXimvmv  £c  tlfftv  lc  "Apyoc  &toi  Avo*  ij  piv  dydpdeiy 
»£«yoi£  cat  iortv  Iwiropoc,  >/  9k  kwi  rov  KaXovpivov  Tpijrov,  <rrcvi) 
iy  Kal  avril  irtpuxovrutv  6puv,  <Jx»7/*a<r»  9i  ioriv  5/iwc  iiririffocorcpa. 
'aauaa.  ibid.  p.  144. 

(4)  Sir  W.  Qell  measured  the  distance  between  the  fnrrowi.  Ac- 
ording  to  hi*  observation,  the  wheels  of  antient  carriages  "  were 
faced  at  about  the  same  distance  from  each  other  as  in  those  of 
lodern  times."    See  Itin.  of  Greece,  p.  47.    LoncL  1801 . 


522  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,   not  now  used  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  Pefo- 

ix.  J 

^w  ponnesus.     The  mountain  over  which  the  defile 
leads  is  still  called   Treto  by   the   natives  ;  it 
extends  from  east  to  west,  along  the  southern 
side  of  the  Plain  of  Nemea.     And  this  defile  is 
all  that  Pausanias  means  by  "  Tretus ;"  but  some 
persons  have  believed  that  there   was  a  town 
called   Tretum,  lying  to  the  north  of  ArgosK   We 
Care  of  the  made   diligent   inquiry   after   the   Cave  of  the 
zaZZ**™  Nemeaan  Lion,  mentioned  by  the  same  author ; 
being  well  assured  that  in  a  country  famous  for 
the   caverns  contained   in  its  limestone  moun- 
tains, an  allusion  of  this  kind  would  not  have 
been   made   by  so  accurate  an  author  without 
actual  reference  to  some  cave  having  borne  this 
appellation.     The  guides  from  Argos  knew  no- 
thing of  it ;  but  the  people  of  Nemea  afterwards 
brought  us  back  again  to   visit  a  hollow  rock 
hardly  deserving  the  name  of  a  cave,   although 
no   unlikely  place  for  the  den  of  a  lion.     As 
other  travellers  may  be  curious  to  visit  it,   we 
shall   describe  its  situation  in   such  a   manner 


(l)  "Trbtum,  petite  ville  de  1'Argolide,  presqu'au  nord  aVArgas. 
Dans  let  montagnes  pret  de  eette  tille,  on  montrolt  une  cavent*  oil  te 
retlroit,  disoit-on,  le  lion  feroce  dont  les  poetos  ont  attribne  la  mort  a 
Hercule/'&c.  Bnq/cloptdie  Mttkodique.  GeoarapMU  Ancienne, par 
MentelU.     Tome  troisieme,  p.  373.    a  Paris,  1792. 


CAVE   OF   THE   NEMEiEAN    LION.  523 

that  they  may  be  easily  guided  to  the  spot.  It  chap. 
is  situate  upon  the  top  of  the  mountain,  just  ^ ' 
before  the  descent  begins  towards  Nemea,  but 
upon  the  side  of  it  which  regards  the  Gulph 
of  Argot ;  commanding  a  view  of  all  the  country 
in  that  direction.  If  it  be  visited  from  Nemea, 
its  bearing  by  the  compass,  from  the  three 
columns  of  the  Temple  of  Jupiter,  is  due  south- 
east ;  those  columns  being  on  the  north-west  side 
of  Tretus,  and  at  the  base  of  the  mountain ;  and 
this  cave  at  the  summit,  on  the  contrary  side, 
facing  Argos  and  Nauplia.  It  consists  simply  of 
an  overhanging  rock  in  the  midst  of  thickets, 
on  the  left  side  of  the  road  from  Nemea  to 
Argos  ;  forming  a  shed,  where  the  shepherds 
sometimes  pen  their  folds.  As  the  situation  is 
lofty,  we  made  the  following  observations  by  a 
small  pocket  compass. 

A  pointed  summit,  called  the  Peak  of  Giria,  or 
Gerio,  antiently  Mons  Gerania,  the  most  dis- 
tant object s.  w.  &  by  w. 

Citadel  of  Argos s.  s.  w. 

Citadel  of  Nauplia      .     .     .     .    s. 

Citadel  of  Corinth      .     .     .     .    e.  n.  e. 

Below  the  eye,  in  this  direction,  the  site  of 
CleowB  may  be  discerned  in  the  few  remaining 
vestiges  of  that  city. 


524  PELOPONNESUS. 


chap.  This  is  the  only  cave  of  any  description  that 
v^v^/  we  could  hear  of  in  the  neighbourhood ;  the 
people  of  the  country  knew  of  no  other ;  and 
we  may  consider  it  as  identified  with  the  cme 
mentioned  by  Pausanias,  from  the  circumstance 
of  its  position  upon  a  mountain  still  bearing 
the  name  of  the  place  assigned  by  him  for  its 
situation1.  Its  distance  also  from  the  ruins 
of  the  Temple,  being  about  a  mile  and  a  half, 
agrees  with  that  which  he  has  stated,  of  fifteen 
stadia2. 

After   regaining  the  road,  the  descent  froto 

this  place  soon   conducts  the  traveller  into  (be 

Fountain  plain    of    Nemea.      We    passed    the    fountain 

of  A.TChCm 

monu.  .of  Archemorus,  once  called  Langia,  and  now 
lAcoria.  Near  to  it  we  saw  the  Tomb  of  OpkeUef* 
at  present  nothing  more  than  a  heap  of 
stones.  Pausanias  calls  the  fountain  the  Adra- 
stSan  spring4:  a  superstition  connected  with  it 
•gave  rise  to  all  the  sanctity  and  celebrity  of  the 


(1 )  Vid.  Pausau.  in  Corinte.  e.  15  p.  144.    ed. 

(2)  'Ev  Tovroig  Tciig  opeai  rb  <nrf)\awv  in  iiunnfttu  row  XioPTfftd 
if  Nc/ica  rb  \ittpiov  airkxii  aratiiovQ  trtvri  trov  rat  tiixa.  Iv  Uavrj 
Siptlov  rov  Ardg  va6c  lirri  Bkaq  £gcog.     Ibid. 

(3)  'BvravBd  iortpiy  OfiXrov  rafoc.    Ibid. 

(4)  Tifv  U  irtiy^v  'A$pd<rrtiav  oVo/ta£<.u<riv,  fZrf  irr'dWy  nvi  atria, 
un  Kai  AvivpSvroc  avr^v  'AtpdvTov.     Ibid. 


RUINS  OF   NEMEA.  525 

surrounding  Grove:  victors  in  the  Nemecean  C^£P' 
Games  received  no  other  reward  than  a  chaplet  ^vw 
made  of  the  wild  parsley5  that  grew  upon  its 
margin ;  and  the  herb  itself,  from  the  circumstance 
of  its  locality,  was  fabled  to  have  sprung  from  the 
blood  of  Archemorus,  in  consequence  of  whose 
death  the  spring  is  said  to  have  received  its 
name0.     We   then  came  to    the   Ruins  of  theT«mpte 

of  the 

Temple  of  the  Nemejean  Jupiter,  which  form  ffememan 

Jupiter* 

a  striking  object  as  the  plain  opens.  Three 
beautiful  columns  of  the  Doric  order,  without 
bases,  two  supporting  an  entablature,  and  a 
third  at  a  small  distance  sustaining  its  capital 
only,  are  all  that  remain  of  this  once  magnificent 
edifice ;  but  they  stand  in  the  midst  of  huge 
blocks  of  marble,  lying  in  all  positions;  the 
fragments  of  other  columns,  and  the  sumptuous 
materials  of  the  building,  detached  from  its 
walls  and  foundations.     The  mountain   Tretus 


(6)  Victors  at  the  Nememan  Game*,  according  to  Plutarch  (in  Timo- 
Uom),  were  crowned  with  parsley  said  to  have  sprung  out  of  the  blood  of 
Archemorus.    "  This  it  the  very  herb/  says  Plutarch,  '<  wherewith  wt 
adorn  the  sepulchres  of  the  dead."  The  Nemeaan  were  funereal  games: 
the  Presidents  were  clothed  in  black  garments. 
(6)        a<  Una  tamen  tacitas,  sed,  jussa  numinis,  andas 
Hsbc  qnoque  secreta  nutrit  Langia  sub  umbra, 
Nondam  ill!  raptas  dederat  lacrymabile  nomen 

Archemorus,  nee  fama  Dese." 

Statius  Thebaid.  Kb.  if. 


526  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  makes  a  conspicuous  figure,  as  seen  from  this 
temple  towards  the  south-east.  A  poor  village, 
consisting  of  three  or  four  huts,  somewhat 
farther  in  the  plain  to  the  north  of  this  moun- 
tain, and  north-east  of  the  temple,  now  occupies 
the  situation  of  the  antient  village  of  Nemea. 
It  bears  the  name  of  Colonna;  probably  be- 
stowed upon  it  in  consequence  of  these  Ruins. 
One  of  its  inhabitants,  coming  from  those  huts, 
joined  our  company  at  the  Temple.  He  told 
us  that  there  were  formerly  ninety  columns  all 
standing  at  this  place;  and  the  other  inhabitants 
of  his  little  village  persisted  in  the  same  story. 
The  columns  now  remaining,  and  the  broken 
shafts  of  many  other  lying  near  to  them, 
are  grooved :  they  measure  four  feet  ten 
inches  in  diameter.  The  stones  of  the  foun- 
dation of  the  Temple  are  of  very  great  size. 
We  observed  the  wild  pear-tree,  mentioned 
by  Chandler1  so  many  years  before,  still 
growing  among  the  stones  on  one  side  of  the 
Ruin.  He  pitched  his  tent  within  the  cell  of 
the  Temple,  "  upon  its  clear  and  level  area/' 
Not  having  such  comfortable  means  of  accom- 
modation   for  the  night,   we   accompanied  the 


(1)  See  Chandler* $  Travels  in  Greece,  p.  333.     Oxford,  1776. 


RUINS   OF   NEMBA.  527 

peasant  who  had  joined  us,  to  the  village,  where  c^p- 
the  Tchohadar  had  already  arrived  and  engaged  v***v*w 
one  of  the  huts  for  our  reception.  The  poor 
Albanians,  to  whom  this  little  habitation  be-  Albanian*. 
longed,  had  swept  the  earth  floor  and  kindled  a 
fire  upon  it ;  the  smoke  escaping  through  a  hole 
in  the  roof:  one  end  of  the  hut  being  occupied 
by  their  cattle  and  poultry,  and  the  other  by 
the  family  and  their  guests.  Having  killed  and 
boiled  a  large  fowl,  we  made  broth  for  all  the 
party  ;  sitting  in  a  circle  round  the  fire.  After- 
wards, imitating  the  example  offered  to  us  by 
oar  host  and  his  family,  we  placed  our  feet 
towards  the  embers,  and  stretched  ourselves 
upon  the  floor  of  the  cottage  until  the  morning. 
We  perceived  during  the  night,  that  the  women, 
instead  of  sleeping,  were  always  tending  the 
fire ;  bringing  fresh  fuel  when  it  was  wanted, 
and  spreading  out  the  embers  so  as  to  warm  the 
feet  of  the  men,  who  were  lying  around  the 
hearth.  When  these  peasants  had  taken  a  short 
nap,  they  sate  up,  and  began  talking.  The  con- 
versation turned  upon  the  oppressions  of  their 
Turkish  masters.  The  owner  of  the  hut  told  us 
that  each  male  is  compelled  to  pay  a  tax  of 
seventy  piastres ;  that,  for  himself,  having  three 
sons,  they  demanded  of  him  an  annual  payment 


528  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,    of  two  hundred  and  eighty  piastres,  besides  other 
v^w  contributions;    that  he   toiled  incessantly  with 
his  children   to  gain  enough    to  satisfy   their 
demands,  but   found   himself  unable,    after  all 
his   endeavours.      Having   said   this,   the   poor 
man  shed  tears ;  asking  us  if  the  time  would 
ever  arrive  when  Greece  might  be  delivered  from 
the  Moslem  tyranny  :  and  adding,  "If  we  had 
but    a    leader,     we    should   flock   together   by 
thousands,   and   soon    put  an    end    to    Turkish 
dominion. "     Towards  morning,  the  braying  of 
their  donkies  set  them  all  in  motion.     Having 
asked  the  cause  of  the  stir,  they  told  us  that 
the  day  was  going  to  break  ;  and  upon  further 
inquiry  we  learned  that  the  braying  of  an  ass 
was     considered    a    better    indication    of    the 
approaching  dawn  than  the   crowing  of  a  cock. 
In  the  present  instance  they  were  certainly  not 
deceived,    for    we   had    no  sooner    boiled   our 
coffee  than  day-light  appeared. 

We  then  returned  to  the  Ruins.     Near  to  the 

remains  of  the  Temple,  and  upon  the  south  side  of 

it,  we  saw  a  small  chapel,  containing  some  Doric 

fragments,  standing   upon   an  antient  tumulus; 

Monu-      perhaps  the  Monument  of  Lycurous,  father  of 

Zyeur^us.  Opheltes ;  for  this  is  mentioned  by  Pausanias  as  a 


RUINS   OF   NEMEA. 


529 


mound  of  earth.  Scarcely  a  vestige  of  the  chap. 
grove  remains  where  the  triennial  games  were 
celebrated ;  unless  a  solitary  tree,  here  and 
there,  may  be  considered  as  relics1.  The  plain 
all  around  the  Temple  exhibits  an  open  surface 
of  agricultural  soil.  We  could  discover  no  trace 
either  of  a  Stadium  or  of  a  Theatrf ;  both  of 
which  are  found  in  every  other  part  of  Greece 
where  solemn  games  were  celebrated.  When 
every  other  monument  by  which  Nemea  was 
adorned  shall  have  disappeared,  this  tomb,  with 
that  of  Opheltes,  and  the  fountain  of  Archemorus 
upon  the  slope  of  the  neighbouring  hill,  will 
be  the  only  indications  of  the  situation  of  the 
sacred  grove.  The  three  remaining  columns  of 
the  Temple  of  Jupiter  are  not  likely  to  continue 
long  in  their  present  place:  some  diplomatic 
virtuoso,  or  pillaging  Pasha,  will  bear  away  these 


(1)  Pauoanias  says  that  the  temple  was  surrounded  by  a  grove  of 
cypresses.  Kvfcapiooiav  r<  oXooq  tarty  irtpi  rbv  vaov.  ( Vid.  Pausan.  in 
Cor.  e.  Id. p.  144.)    No  cypress-tree  is  now  to  be  seen  near  the  Rains. 

(2)  Tt  does  not  necessarily  follow,  that  if  this  be  the  Temple  of 
Ntmeman  Jove,  the  Games  were  celebrated  close  to  the  spot  where  the 
Tempt*  stands.     8ir  TV.  Gell  found  the  remains  of  a  Theatre  in  his 

journey  from  Corinth  to  Nemea ;  which,  although  he  does  not  seem  to 
be  aware  of  the  circumstance,  may  be  that  of  the  Nemeaan  Games. 
He  is  just  entering  the  Nemeaan  Plain  or  valley ;  and  be  says, 
"  Here  joins  the  road  leading  from  Mycenai  to  Nemea,  which,  turning 
to  the  right,  falls  into  the  Valley  of  Nemea,  between  the  site  of  a 
Theatre  on  the  right,  and  a  fount  on  the  left,  now  dry."  See  QelVe 
Itin.  of  Greece,  p.  22.    Land.  1801 . 

VOL.    VI.  M  M 


530  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  marble  relics;  and  then,  notwithstanding  the 
wvw  boast  of  Statins1,  the  very  site  of  the  consecrated 
games,  whether  instituted  to  commemorate 
Uypsipyles  loss,  or  the  first  labour  of  Hercvlef, 
may  become  a  theme  of  dispute.  Perhaps, 
indeed,  the  Temple  is  not  of  the  high  antiquity 
that  has  been  assigned  to  it.  The  columns  are 
said  not  to  bear  the  due  proportion  which  is 
usually  observed  in  the  early  examples  of  Doric 
architecture8.  This  edifice  may  have  been 
erected  by  Hadrian,  when  that  emperor  restored 
to  the  Nemeaan  and  to  the  Isthmian  Games  their 
original  splendour. 

Early  this  morning,  Wednesday,  November  the 

eleventh,  we  began  our  journey  towards  Sic  yon, 

now   called  Basilico ;    following  the  course    of 

ww*80*  ^e  Nemecean  rivulet.     This  stream  is  alluded  to 

by  Statins,  with  reference  to  the  fountain  before 

(1)        "  manetingens  gloria  Nympham, 

Cam  tristem  Hypsipylem  ducibus  eudatus  Achttis 
Ludus,  et  atra  sacrum  recolit  Trieteris  Ophelten." 

Statute,  ThebauL  lib.  It. 

(2)  According  to  JElum,  lib.  ir.  c.  5,  Hercules  transferred  to 
Cleoncs  the  honours  bestowed  upon  him  by  the  Nemeane,  for  subduing 
the  lion. 

(3)  Sir  W.  Qell  makes  the  diameters  of  the  columns  of  the  peristyle 
equal  five  feet  two  inches  and  a  half,  and  observes  that  the  columns 
are  higher  in  proportion  to  their  diameters  than  is  usual  iu  the  Doric 
Order.    See  Itin.  of  Greece,  p.  23.    Lond.  1801. 


RUINS  OF  NEMEA.  531 

mentioned4.     It  flows  in   a  deep  ravine  after    chap. 
leaving  the  plain,  and  then  passes  between  the  \**J—s 
mountains  which  separate  the  Nemecean  Plain 
from    that  of    Sicyon.     On   either  side   of  the 
rivulet    the   rocks    appeared    to   consist    of   a 
whitish   chalky  limestone.     As  we   rode  along 
the  left  bank  of  the  rivulet,  we  saw,  upon  our 
right,  a  table  mountain,  believed  by  Chandler*  to 
be  the  Apesas  of  Pausanias,  where  Perseus  was  Apesas. 
said  to  have  sacrificed  to  Jupiter.     Its  flat  top, 
he  says,  is  visible  in  the  Gulph  of  Corinth.     We 
passed    some    ruined    Chapels  upon    our  left. 
Almost  every  building  of  this  kind  in  Greece  has 
been  erected  upon  the  ruins  of  some  Pagan 
sanctuary;    for  which  reason  they  are  always 
worthy    of   a   particular    examination.      After 
riding  about    two   hours  along   the   Nemecean 
rivulet,  we  suddenly  quitted  its  course  upon  our 
right,  and  beheld  Sicyon,  occupying  an  elevated 
situation   upon  some  whitish  cliffs.      Here  we 
noticed  a  Tomb  and  Ruins  upon  our  right  hand, 
and  immediately  descended  into  the  great  fertile 
plain   which  extends  along    the    Sinus    Corin- suyonian 
tfnacus,  between  Sicyon  and  Corinth.     Soon  after  plain* 


(4)  "tamen  aviaser?at 

Et  nemui,  et  flovium."       Stat.  Theb.  lib.  iv. 
(6)  Trav.  In  Greece,  p.  233.    Oxf.  1 776. 

M    M    2 


532  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  entering  into  this  plain,  we  observed  upon  our 
wirnriw  right  hand,  a  Chapel,  containing  Ionic  capitals, 
and  other  marble  fragments.  Hence  we  con- 
tinued our  journey  upon  a  level  and  highly  fer- 
tile soil,  cultivated  like  a  garden  :  after  crossing 
a  river,  we  observed,  in  several  places  upon 
our  lefty  the  ruins  of  antient  buildings.  We 
sieym.     then  came  to  the  site  of  the  city  of  Sicyon. 

So  little  is  known  concerning  this  antient  seat 
of  Grecian  power,  that  it  is  not  possible  to  ascer- 
tain in  what  period  it  dwindled  from  its  high 
pre-eminence,  to  become,  what  it  now  is,  one  of 
the  most  wretched  villages  of  the  Peloponnesus. 
The  remains  of  its  former  magnificence  are  still 
considerable ;  and,  in  some  instances,  they 
exist  in  such  a  state  of  preservation,  that  it  is 
evident  the  buildings  of  the  city  either  survived 
the  earthquakes  said  to  have  overwhelmed 
them,  or  they  must  have  been  constructed  in 
some  later  period.  In  this  number  is  the 
Theatre.  Theatre ;  by  much  the  finest  and  the  most  per- 
fect structure  of  the  kind  in  all  Greece.  The 
different  parts  of  the  city,  whereof  traces  are 
yet  visible,  serving  as  land-marks  in  pursuing  the 
observations  ofPausanias,  may  be  comprehended 
under  the  following  heads : 


8ICYON. 


533 


1.  A  Fountain.  CIj£p- 

2.  The  Acropolis.  v^.^ 

3.  Foundations  of  Temples  and  other  build- 

ings ;  some  of  these  constructed  in  a 
style  as  massive  as  the  Cyclopian. 

4.  Very  grand  Walls,  although  built  of  brick 

tiles. 

5.  Remains  of  a  Palace,  with  many  chambers. 

6.  The  Theatre. 

7.  The  Stadium. 

8.  Remains  of  a  Temple  near  to  the  Theatre. 

9.  Antient  Caves. 

1 0.  Antient  Paved  Way. 

11.  Ruins  in  the  plain  below  Sicyon,  towards 

the  sea. 

With  respect  to  some  of  these  remains,  hardly 
any  thing  can  be  said,  but  the  mere  enumera- 
tion of  the  names  they  bear  in  this  list ;  but  of 
others,  a  more  particular  description  may  be 
given.  The  whole  city  occupied  an  elevated 
situation  j  but  as  it  did  not  possess  one  of  those 
precipitous  rocks  for  its  Citadel  which  sustained 
the  bulwarks  of  Athens,  Argos,  Corinth,  and 
many  other  Grecian  States,  no  vestige  of  its 
Acropolis  can  now  be  discerned,  excepting  only 
the  traces  of  its  walls.  It  is  situate  above  a 
place  now  called  Pakeo- Castro ;  occupying  that 
part  of  the  Ruins  of  Sicyon  which  lies  upon  the 
south-east  side,  towards  Corinth.  Before  we 
enter  upon  any  further  detail  of  the  Ruins  here, 
it  may  be  proper,  for  the  advantage  of  other 


534  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  travellers,  as  well  as  for  perspicuity  of  description, 
to  state  the  bearings  of  some  principal  objects. 

From  the  village  of  Basilico,  the  Theatre  bears 

W^»  N.  W« 

The  Acro-Corinthus,  or  Citadel  of  Corinth, 

s.  e.  and  by  s.1 

The  mountain  Parnassus,  as  seen  in  Phocu  .  n. 

Thebes  in  Boeotia e«n.e. 

Whether  this  last  object  be  visible  or  hot  is  very 
doubtful ;  but  it  was  a  place  called  Thiva  by 
the  inhabitants,  lying  in  the  direction  of  Thebes*. 

Hence  it  will  be  evident  that  the  Ruins  of 
Sicyon  occupy  a  prominent  part  of  the  Sicyonian 
territory,  extending  towards  the  n.  n.  e.  into 
the  Corinthian  Gulph;  and  that  they  lie  along  a 
ridge  above  the  Plain  of  Sicyon,  in  a  direction 
from  w.  n.w.  to  e.  s.  e.  having  Parnassus  due 
north.  The  Acropolis,  upon  the  s.  e.  side  of 
the  city,  may  be  recognised,  both  in  the  nature 
of  its  walls,  which  are  very  antient,  and  in  its 
more  elevated  situation.  Near  this  place 
we    observed    the    fragments    of    architectural 


(1)  It  was  highly  satisfactory  to  the  author  to  find  his  obserrationsby 
the  compass  accidentally  confirmed  by  such  respectable  authority  as  that 
of  Sir  George  Wheler,  who,  observing  the  bearing  of  Basilico  from  the 
Acro-Corinthus  (SeeJourn.  into  Greece,?.  442.  Land.  1682)  exactly 
in  the  opposite  direction,  states  it  to  be  North-west  and  by  North. 

(2)  Mr.  Hawkins  is  of  opinion,  that  the  object  referred  to  in  this 
instance  may  possibly  be  the  very  remarkable  conical  mountain  called 
CorombUa,  which  •verlooks  the  Gulph  of  Livodcstro. 


s  i  c  y  o  n.        •  535 

ornaments,  and  some  broken  columns  of  the  Ionic  chap. 
order.  Hard  by  the  Acropolis  may  also  be  seen 
the  Caves  before  mentioned,  as  in  the  vicinity 
of  Athens :  in  all  probability  they  were  rather 
the  sepulchres3  than  the  habitations  of  the 
earliest  inhabitants,  although  this  cannot  now 
be  ascertained :  they  are  all  lined  with  stucco : 
and  Pausanias  mentions  certain  secret  recesses* 
belonging  to  the  Sicyonians,  in  which  particular 
images  were  kept  for  their  annual  processions 
to  the  Temple  of  Bacchus  beyond  the  Theatre. 


(3)  The  Sepulchres  of  the  Sieyonians  in  the  second  century  consisted 
of*  hemp  of  earth,  above  which  stood  a  st£l£,  resting  upon  a  stone  bate, 
and  •nrmonntcd  by  a  species  of  ornament  resembling  the  pediment  of  a 
temple;  or  that  part  of  the  roof  which  was  called  "the  Eagle."  (Vid. 
Pane.  Cor.  c.  7.  p.  126.  ed.  Kuhn.)  The  history  of  the  Eagle  npon 
the  Grecian  temples  is  briefly  this.  The  souls  of  kings,  orer  whose 
sepulchres  temples  were  originally  erected,  were  believed  (6xcl<r0<u)  to  be 
carried  to  heaven  upon  eagles*  wings.  At  the  ritoal  of  the  deification  of 
Roman  Emperors,  after  the  funeral  ( Vid.  Herodian.  lib.  ir.  cap.  3. 
t&m.  1.  p.  ISO.  Argentorati,  1694)  it  was  customary  to  let  an  eagle  fly 
from  the  Campus  Martins;  and,  in  allusion  to  a  similar  custom,  Lyco- 
pkron  calls  Achilles  atrbv  an  eagle,  because  he  carried  about  Hector's 
body.  An  eagle f  therefore,  with  expanded  wings,  was  formerly  repre- 
sented upon  the  tympanum  of  the  pediment  in  all  temples;  and,  ulti- 
mately, this  part  of  the  edifice  itself  received  the  appellation  of  AET02, 
the  Eagle.  Ornaments  of  the  same  trilateral  shape  are  often  seen 
surmounting  the  entrances  of  antient  sepulchres,  hewn  in  the  rocks  of 
Syria,  and  of  Asia  Minor. 

(4)*AXXa  Ik  ayakuara  Iv  'AIIOPPHTQI  Sicvfcivfoic  lari.  Pausar. 
Cor.  c.  7.  p.  197.  ed.  Kuhnii. 


636  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.  There  is  still  an  antient  paved  road  that  con- 

IX 

ducted  to  the  Citadel  by  a  narrow  entrance 
between  rocks,  so  contrived  as  to  make  all  who 
approached  the  gate  pass  through  a  defile  that 
might  be  easily  guarded.  Within  the  Acropolis 
are  the  vestiges  of  buildings,  perhaps  the  Hieron 
of  Fortuna  Acr^a,  and  of  the  Dioscmu1 ; 
and  below  it  is  a  fountain,  seeming  to  correspond 
with  that  of  Stazusa,  mentioned  by  Pausamas 
as  near  the  gate2.  The  remains  of  a  temple,  built 
in  a  very  massive  style  of  structure,  occurs  on 
the  western  side  of  the  village  of  Basilico ;  and  in 
passing  the  fosse  of  the  Citadel  to  go  towards  the 
Theatre,  which  is  beyond  the  Acropolis?,  a  sub- 
terraneous passage  may  be  observed,  exactly 
above  which  the  Temple  seems  to  have  stood ; 
as  if  by  means  of  this  secret  duct  persons 
belonging  to  the  sanctuary  might  have  had 
ingress  and  egress  to  and  from  the  Temple, 
without  passing  the  gate  of  the  Citadel.  This 
was,  perhaps,  the  identical  place  called  Cosme- 
terium  by  Pausanias\  whence  the  mystic  images 


(1)  'Ev  $i  ry  vvv  arpoxoXn  TvxiC  upov  lonv  acpalac,  furd  Si  a&rt 
AaovKovpwv.     Fautan.  Car.  c.  7.  p.  127.  ed.  Kuhnii. 

(2)  Ilpog  &  ry  irvXy,  wqyii  fori,  c.  r.  X.     Ibid. 

(3)  Pausaniat  says,  vtrb  rffv  aKpoxoKiv.    Ibid. 

(4)  Tavra  fiif  taff  Itaorov  croc  vvktI  ig  to  Atoyvoov  U  rov  coXo»- 
pivov  KOSMHTHPIOY  KOpiZovct.    Ibid. 


sic  yon.  537 

were  annually  brought  forth  in  the  solemn  chap. 
procession  to  the  Temple  of  Bacchus,  situate 
near  the  Theatre  and  the  Stadium.  Some  of  the 
remains  enumerated  in  the  list  may  be  those  of 
Venetian  edifices ;  as,  for  example,  the  ruin  of 
the  Palace :  the  palaces  of  antient  Sicyon  being 
highly  splendid,  and  all  built  of  marble.  Indeed 
an  expression  used  by  Pausanias  seems  to  imply 
that  the  Acropolis*  as  it  existed  in  his  time5,  was 
not  the  most  antient  Citadel.  The  sea  is  at  the 
distance  of  about  a  league  from  Basilico;  but 
the  commanding  eminence  upon  which  the  Ruins 
are  situate  affords  a  magnificent  view  of  the 
Corinthian  Gulph  and  of  all  the  opposite  coast 
of  Phocis.  There  is,  however,  no  part  of-  the 
antient  city  where  this  prospect  is  more  striking 
than  from  the  Theatre.  This  structure  is 
almost  in  its  entire  state  ;  and  although  the 
notes  we  made  upon  the  spot  do  not  enable  us 
to  afford  a  description  of  its  form  and  dimensions 
equally  copious  with  that  already  given  of  the 
famous  Theatre ofPolycletus  mEpidauria,yet  this 
of  Sicyon  may  be  considered  as  surpassing  every 
other  in  Greece,  in  the  harmony  of  its  propor- 
tions, in  the  costliness  of  the  workmanship,  in 
the  grandeur  of  the  Onion,  and  in  the  stupendous 


(6)  'E*  to  tj  pvp  'A*poinJX*i,  c.  r.  X.    Paut.  ibid. 


538  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  nature  of  the  prospect  exhibited  to  all  those 
s^vw'  who  were  seated  upon  its  benches.  If  it  were 
freed  from  the  rubbish  about  it,  and  laid  open 
to  view,  it  would  afford  an  astonishing  idea  of 
the  magnificence  of  a  city  whose  luxuries  were 
so  great  that  its  inhabitants  ranked  among  the 
most  voluptuous  and  effeminate  people  of  all 
Greece.  The  stone- work  is  entirely  of  that 
massive  kind  which  denotes  a  very  high  degree 
of  antiquity.  Part  of  the  Scene  remains,  together 
with  the  whole  of  the  seats,  although  some  of 
the  latter  now  lie  concealed  by  the  soil.  But 
the  most  remarkable  parts  of  the  structure  are 
two  vaulted  passages  for  places  of  entrance ;  one 
being  on  either  side,  at  the  two  extremities  of 
the  Coilon,  close  to  the  Scene,  and  about  half  way 
up  ;  leading  into  what  we  should  call  the  side* 
boxes  of  a  modern  theatre.  Immediately  in 
Prospect  front,  the  eye  roams  over  all  the  Gulph  of 
CoUen.  Corinth,  commanding  islands,  promontories,  and 
distant  summits  towering  above  the  clouds.  To 
a  person  seated  in  the  middle  of  the  Cavea,  a 
lofty  mountain  with  bold  sweeping  sides  ap- 
pears beyond  the  Gulph,  placed  exactly  in  the 
centre  of  the  view  j  the  sea  intervening  between 
its  base  and  the  Sicyonian  coast :  and  this  moun- 
tain marks  the  particular  part  of  JBceotia  now 
pointed  out  by  the  natives  of  Basilico  a&^Thwa) 


S I  C  Y  O  N.  639 

Thebes  :  but  to  a  person  who  is  placed  upon  chap. 
the  seats  which  are  upon  the  right  hand  of  s*^w 
those  in  front,  Parnassus,  here  called  Lakura, 
from  its  antient  name  Lycorea,  most  nobly 
displays  itself:  this  mountain  is  only  visible  in 
very  clear  weather.  During  the  short  time  we 
remained  in  the  Theatre,  it  became  covered  with 
vast  clouds,  which  at  first  rolled  majestically 
over  its  summit,  and  afterwards  concealed  it  from 
oar  view. 

The  Stadium  is  on  the  right  hand  of  a  person  stadium. 
facing  the  Theatre :  it  is  undoubtedly  the  oldest 
work  remaining  of  all  that  belonged  to  the 
antient  city.  The  walls  exactly  resemble  those 
of  MyceruB  and  Tiryns :  it  may  therefore  class 
among  the  examples  of  Cyclopean  masonry.  In 
other  respects,  it  is  the  most  remarkable  struc- 
ture of  the  kind  existing ;  because  it  is  partly  a 
natural,  and  partly  an  artificial  work.  The 
persons  by  whom  it  was  formed,  finding  that 
the  mountain  upon  which  the  Coilon  of  the 
Theatre  had  been  constructed  would  not  allow  a 
sufficient  space  for  another  oblong  Cavea  of  the 
length  requisite  to  complete  a  Stadium,  built  up 
an  artificial  rampart,  reaching  out  into  the  plain 
from  the  mountain  towards  the  sea:  so  that 
this  front-work  resembles  half  a  Stadium  thrust 


540  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  into  the  semi-circular  cavity  of  a  Theatre ;  the 
w»vL/  entrances  to  the  area,  included  between  both, 
being  formed  with  great  taste  and  effect  at  the 
two  sides  or  extremities  of  the  semicircle.  The 
antient  masonry  appears  in  the  front-work  so 
placed.  The  length  of  the  whole  area  equals 
two  hundred  and  sixty-seven  paces ;  the  width 
of  the  advanced  bastion  thirty-six  paces ;  and 
its  height  twenty-two  feet  six  inches.  In  front 
of  the  projecting  rampart  belonging  to  the 
outer  extremity  of  the  Stadium,  and  at  a  short 
distance  below  it,  in  the  plain,  are  also  the 
Temple  of  remains  of  a  Temple ;  completing  the  plan  of 
this  part  of  the  antient  city ;  which  was  here 
terminated,  on  its  western  side,  by  three  magnifi- 
cent structures,  a  Theatre,  a  Stadium,  and  a 
Temple ;  as  it  was  bounded  towards  its  eastern 
extremity  by  its  Acropolis.  We  can  be  at  no 
loss  for  the  name  of  this  Temple,  although 
nothing  but  the  ground  plot  of  it  now  remain  : 
it  is  distinctly  stated  by  Pausanias  to  have  been 
the  Temple  of  Bacchus,  which  occurred  beyond 
the  Theatre  to  a  person  coming  from  the  Citadel1 ; 
and  to  this  Temple  were  made  those  annual 
processions  before  alluded  to,  which  took  place 


(1)  Mcrd  U  rb  Bkarpov,  Aiovvoov  va6g  fore.    Paus.  Car.  c.  7.  p.  127. 
ed.  Kuhnii. 


SIC  YON.  541 

at  night,  and  by  the  light  of  torches,  when  the  chap. 
Sicyoniam  brought  hither  the  mystic  images,  called  ^^^j 
Baccheus  and  Lysius,  chanting  their  antient 
hymns8.  Around  the  Theatre  and  Stadium,  other  An- 
besides  the  traces  of  this  Temple,  other  ruins 
may  be  noticed,  but  less  distinct  as  to  their 
form.  In  the  plain  towards  the  sea  are  many 
more,  perhaps  extending  to  the  Sicyonian  haven, 
which  we  did  not  visit.  The  Theatre  itself  was 
of  a  much  more  extensive  nature  than  other 
edifices  of  the  same  kind  commonly  are :  its 
sides  and  front  projected  far  into  the  plain.  We 
were  not  successful  in  our  search  for  inscrip- 
tions ;  but  the  peasants  sold  to  us  many  medals 
and  small  terracotta  vessels,  which  they  said 
they  had  found  in  caves  near  the  spot.  Among 
the  latter  we  collected  lachrymatories  of  more 
antient  form  and  materials  than  anything  we 
had  ever  before  observed  of  the  same  kind. 
These  vessels,  as  it  is  well  known,  were  often 
made  of  glass,  and  more  antiently  of  earthen- 
ware ;  being  diminutive  as  to  their  size,  and  of 
delicate  workmanship :  but  the  lachrymatory 
phials,  in  which  the  Sicyonians  treasured  up  their 


fUp  oir  8v  BAKXEION  IvopdZovaiv,  k,  r.  X.  Intrai  dk  6  jeaXovpcvaf 
AY2IOS.     Pout.  ibid. 


642  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  tears,  deserve  rather  the  name  of  bottles1:  they 
are  nine  inches  long,  two  inches  in  diameter, 
and  contain  as  much  fluid  as  would  fill  a  phial 
of  three  ounces  ;  consisting  of  the  coarsest  mate- 
rials, a  heavy  blue  clay  or  marl.  But  we  also 
collected  little  circular  cups  like  small  salt- 
cellars, two  inches  in  diameter,  and  one  inch  in 
height,  (which  are  said  to  be  found  in  great 
abundance  at  Sicyon,)  of  a  much  more  elegant 

(1)  It  is  observed  by  the  Author's  friend,  the  learned  Editor  of 
"  Memoirs  relating  to  European  and  Asiatic  Turkey"  in  a  Note  of  his 
valuable  work,  that  "  the  supposition  respecting  Lachrymatories,  as 
intended  to  receive  the  tears  of  the  relatives  of  the  deceased,  Is  now 
rejected  by  tlte  most  intelligent  Antiquaries."  See  Walpole's  M§msirst 
p.  323.  (Note.)  London,  1817.  Tet  this  custom  was  well  known 
among  the  Romans,  and  was  more  antiently  in  use  among  the 
Eastern  nations,  especially  among  the  Hsbrews.  The  ampullm,  or 
umaf  laehrymales,  were  of  different  materials;  some  of  glass,  some 
of  earth.  (See  Chandler's  Life  of  David,  Vol.  I.  p.  106.  Land.  1766.) 
Their  various  forms  and  magnitude  are  represented  by  Montfaucon.  In 
his  treatise  "  De  umulis  seu  phialis  in  queis  lachrymm  eondebantur,  quas 
passim  ex  sepulehris  eruunt,"  he  maintains,  from  antient  Inscriptions, 
that  this  custom  existed  among  the  Antients.  In  one  of  those  Inscrip- 
tions, the  following  words  occur :  "  Fusca  Matkr,  ad    luctuk  it 

OBMITUK   RBLICTA,  GUM  LACHRYKIB  ET  OPOBALSAMO  CDDM."  VuU 

Antiq.  Explanat.  torn.  V.  Part.  Prim.  cap.  7.  p.  117.  Paris,  1710. 
Sometimes  the  vessels  found  in  antient  sepulchres  are  of  such  dimi- 
nutive size,  that  they  are  only  capable  of  containing  a  lew  drops  of 
fluid :  in  these  instances  there  seems  to  be  no  other  use  for  which  they 
were  fitted.  Small  lachrymal  phials  of  glass  have  been  found  in  the 
tombs  of  the  Romans  in  Great  Britain ;  and  the  evident  allusion  to  this 
practice  in  the  Sacred  Scriptures,  "  Put  thou  my  tears  into  thy  bottle," 
(Ps.  viii.  8.)  seems  decisive  as  to  the  purpose  for  which  these  vessels 
were  designed. 


sicyon.  543 

anufacture,  although  perhaps  nearly  as  antient.    chap. 

lien  we  first  saw  them,  we  believed  that  they  v^v 

id   been  made  of  pale   unbaked  clay,  dried 

ily  in  the  sun  :  upon  a  nearer  examination,  we 

trceived  that  they  had  once  been  covered  with 

red  glazing,  but  that  this  varnish  having  been 

tually   decomposed,   had  almost  disappeared. 

ence  some  inference  may  be   deduced  as   to 

eir  great  antiquity ;  instances  being  hitherto 

iknown  of  the  spontaneous  decomposition  of 

e    varnish   upon   antient    terra-cotta    vessels. 

rery    person,    acquainted    with    the    subject, 

lows,   that  the  most  powerful  acids  produce 

*  effect  whatsoever  upon  their  surfaces,  and 

it  some  of   the  oldest  terra-cottas    yet    dis- 

rered  in  Greece  are  remarkable  for  the  high 

Tee  of  perfection  and  lustre  exhibited  by  the 

4  varnish   upon   their  surfaces.    The  case 

'  be  otherwise   with   the  red  varnish;  and 

aps    the    examples    of     pottery    found  in 

ian  sepulchres,  and  believed  to  have  been 

of   unbaked   clay,    with  surfaces  which 

ler    beneath   the    fingers,   having  a  pale 

r  aspect,  may  owe  this  appearance  entirely 

degree  of  decomposition  they  have  sus- 

The  medals  which  we  collected  hereifadaii. 
*d  principally  of  the  bronze  coinage  of 
;  having  on  one  side  a  Dove  represented 


544  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  flying,  and  upon  the  other  the  letters  2,  SI,  or 
2IK.  Others  were  also  brought  to  us  of  the 
Roman  Emperors :  among  these,  there  was  one 
with  the  head  of  Severn*:  exhibiting  upon  the 
obverse  side,  a  boy  upon  a  dolphin,  with  a  tree. 
The  whole  illustration  of  this  subject  may  be 
deduced  from  Pausanias:  it  relates  to  a  fable 
on  which  the  Isthmian  Games  were  said  to  have 
been  founded.  The  tree  is  the  Pine  which  was 
shewn  near  to  the  town  of  Cromion,  as  a  memo- 
rial of  one  of  the  exploits  of  Theseus.  Near  to 
it  stood  an  altar  of  Melicerta,  who  was  brought 
thither  by  a  dolphin,  and  afterwards  buried  upon 
the  spot  by  Sisyphus ;  in  honour  of  whom  the 
Isthmian  Games  were  said  to  have  been  insti- 
tuted1. It  is  always  easy  to  procure  bronze 
medals  in  Greece;  but  the  Albanian  peasants  do 
not  readily  part  with  those  which  are  of  silver; 
because  they  decorate  the  head-dresses  of  their 
women  with  these  pieces.  They  may,  how- 
ever, be  tempted  by  newly  coined  paras,  which 
answer  the  same  purpose  :  we  had  accordingly 
provided  ourselves  with  a  small  cargo,  fresh 
from  the  mint.  In  exchange  for  this  base  but 
shining  coin,  we  obtained  a  few  silver  medals 
of  Sicyon,  and  one  of  uncommon  rarity  of  Pylus 


(1)  Vid.  Pausan.  C&r.  c.  1.  p.  111.    ed.  Kuhmi. 


s  i  c  y  o  w.  545 

in  Elis.  A  single  but  imperfect  impression  of  chap. 
this  last  coin  exists  in  the  Collection  at  Paris. 
That  which  we  obtained  exhibited  in  front  a  bull 
standing  upon  a  dolphin,  with  the  letters  VH Y ; 
and  for  the  obverse  side  an  indented  square. 
Any  silver  medal  belonging  to  these  Albanians 
might  be  bought  of  them  for  a  few  new  paras, 
not  worth  a  penny  ;  but  if  paid  in  old  coin,  tljey 
would  not  part  with  one  for  the  same  number 
of  piastres.  Ibrahim,  it  is  true,  had  a  summary 
way  of  settling  these  matters  :  by  demanding 
every  thing  d  coup  de  baton,  he  shortened  all 
treaties,  whether  for  horses,  food,  lodging,  or 
antiquities,  by  the  speedy  dispersion  of  all 
whom  he  approached.  For  this  reason,  when- 
ever we  wished  to  deal  with  the  natives,  we 
took  especial  care  to  send  him  our  of  the  way. 
After  our  return  to  the  village  of  Basilico,  we 
dismissed  Ibrahim  with  the  baggage ;  and  the 
people  finding  themselves  secure  from  Turkish 
chastisement,  came  round  us  with  their  wives 
and  children,  bringing  all  the  antiquities  they 
could  collect. 

We    then  set   out  for  Corinth.      As  we   de- 
scended  from    the   Acropolis,   we   plainly   per- 
ceived the  situation  of  the  gate  to  have  been  in  the 
fosse,  above  the  place  where  the  fountain  now  is. 
Here  we  noticed  the  remains  of  the  old  paved 

VOL.    VI.  N    N 


546  PELOPONNESUS. 

way  ;  and  saw  upon  our  right,  close  to  the  road, 
that  the  rock  had  been  evidently  hewn  into  a 
square  pedestal,  for  the  base  of  some  colossal 
statue,  or  public  monument.  Thence  we  con- 
tinued our  route  across  the  wide  and  beautiful 
plain  which  extends  between  Sicyon  and  Corinth, 
bounded  by  the  sea  towards  the  north ;  a 
journey  of  three  hours  and  a  half,  over  the 
finest  corn  land  in  Greece,  and  through  olive- 
plantations  producing  the  sweetest  oil  in  the 
Fertility  of  world.     This   district  has   been   justly  extolled 

the  Land.   ...  J         J 

by  antient1  and  by  modern  authors8.  The  well- 
known  answer  of  an  antient  Oracle  to  a  person 
who  inquired  the  way  to  become  wealthy,  will 
prove  how  famous  the  soil  has  ever  been  for 
its  fertility  :  he  was  told  to  "  get  possession  of 
all  the  land  between  Corinth  and  Sicyon." 
Indeed,  a  knowledge  of  the  country  is  all  that 
is  necessary  to  explain  the  early  importance  of 
the  cities  for  which  it  was  renowned.  Both 
Sicyon  and  Corinth  owed  their  origin  to  this 
natural  garden :  and  such  is  even  now  its  value, 
under  all  the  disadvantageous  circumstances  of 
Turkish  government  and  neglected  cultivation, 
that  the  failure   of    its  annual   produce  would 


(1)  See  the  authors  cited  by  JBarthelemy;  A  then.  lib.  r.  cap.  19. 
p.  810.    Liv.  lib.  xxtU.  cap.  81.    Sehd.  Arittoph.  in  Av.  ?.  009. 
(3)  Wheier$s  Journey  Into  Greece,  Book  VI.  p.  443.     Land.  1689. 


CORINTH. 


547 


cause  a  famine  to  be  felt  over  all  the  surround-   cf^p* 
ing  districts3.  w-v^. 

Within    a    mile    of   Corinth   we   passed  a 

Fountain  in  a  cavern  upon  our  right ;  formed  by 

a  dropping  rock  consisting  of  a  soft  sand-stone. 

Farther  up  the  hill,  and  upon  the  same  side  of  corwth, 

the  road,   as   we   entered  the  straggling  town 

now  occupying  the  site  of  the  antient  city,  we 

observed  some  Ruins,  and  a  quantity  of  broken 

pottery  scattered  upon  the  soil.     The  old  city 

occupied  an  elevated  level  above  the  rich  plain  we 

had  now  passed.     Upon  the  edge  of  this  natural 

terrace,  where  it  begins  to  fall  towards  the  corn 

land,  we  found  the  fluted  shaft  of  a  Doric  pillar 

of  limestone,  equal  in  its  dimensions  to  any  of  the 

columns  of  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympius  at 

Athens :  it  was  six  feet  and  one  inch  in  diameter. 

Close  to  this  we  observed  the  ground-plot  of  a 

building,  once  strongly  fortified  ;  that  is  to  say, 

a  square  platform  fronting  the  plain  and  the  sea  : 

on  this  side  of  it  is  a  precipice,  and  its  three 

other  sides  were  surrounded  by  a  fosse.     The 

area    measures   sixty- six  paces   by   fifty  three ; 

its  major  diameter  being  parallel  to  the  sea-shore. 

Upon   the  opposite  side,   within  the  fosse,  are 


($)  a  And  its  plenty  failing,  brings  most  certainly  a  famine  upon  thejr 
adgnbonrs  round  about  them."  Wheler9*  Journey  into  Greece,  p.  443. 
Xm&lftt. 

N    N    2 


548  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  also  the  remains  of  other  foundations :  possibly 
of  a  bridge  or  causeway,  leading  into  the  area 


on  that  side.  The  remarkable  fountain  before 
mentioned  does  not  here  guide  us,  amidst  the 
mazy  description  of  Pausanias,  to  the  original 
name  of  this  building.  Corinth  was  full  of 
fountains  ;  there  was  no  city  in  Greece  better 
supplied  with  water1 :  many  of  those  fountains 
were  supplied  by  means  of  aqueducts9.  But  if 
we  find  a  passage  in  Pausanias  that  seems  to 
2^51^  allude  to  the  remarkable  circumstance  of  a  drop* 
J£jJPh  ping  spring  within  a  cavern,  we  may  perhaps 
succeed  in  establishing  a  point  of  observation 
for  ascertaining  other  objects  in  its  neigh- 
bourhood. An  allusion  of  this  nature  occurs 
where  he  mentions  the  water  of  the  Nymph 
Pirenef  who  poured  forth  such  abundance 
of  tears  for  the  loss  of  her  son  Cenchrias, 
when  slain  by  Diana,  that  she  was  metamor- 
phosed   into   a   fountain3.      Even  the   circum- 

(1)  Kpj/vai  Sk  voWai  /iiv  ava  ti)v  v6\iv  iwroitivrcu  iraoavt&T* 
afQbvov  piovrbg  oftotv  Maroc.      Pans.  Cor.  c.  3.  p.  118.    ed.  XnA». 

Bare  H  teal  rwv  fptartuv  ti/wopia  Kara  rt)v  ttoXiv.     Strabon.  Gsog. 
lib.  Till.  p.  650.  ed.  Oxon. 

(2)  The  Emperor  Hadrian  brought  water  to  Corinth  from  Stympha- 
lus,  written  Stemphylus  in  the  edition  of  Pausanuu  above  cited.  Vid. 
Pout.  Cor.  ut  supra. 

(3)  Men*  rb  aiirb  ioobog  kori  trig  UeiptjvrjQ  Iq  to  Mvp.  'Exi  & 
airy  Xiyovoiv,  *g  if  Uiipi)vtj  ykvotro  vnb  baicpvvr  IK  avOpvirov  wirf* 
rbv  iralZa  bivpofuvn  Kiy%piav  vicb  'ApripuSog  aKOvoqs  awoOavovra- 
Paut.  ibid.  p.  117. 


CORINTH.  549 

stance    of    the    cellular    cavity    whence    the   chap. 

J  .  IX. 

water  flows  appears  to  have  been  noticed  by 
Pausanias ;  in  whose  time  it  was  beautified  with 
white  marble*.  This  weeping  spring  may  there- 
fore be  considered  the  same  with  that  which 
he  has  denominated  the  fountain  of  the 
Nymph  Pirene  :  as  it  occurs  in  the  road  lead- 
ing from  Corinth  to  LechtBum  on  the  Sicyonian 
side  of  the  Isthmus,  precisely  where  that  fountain 
was  situate.  This  point  being  established,  we 
might  expect  to  make  the  fountain  a  land-mark 
for  ascertaining  the  relative  position  of  other 
objects.  But  Strabo  has  given  the  same  name 
to  another  spring  at  the  base  of  the  Aero- 
corinthus:  and  Pausanias  allows  that  this  was 
not  the  only  fountain  called  PireneP.  The 
spacious  area  belonging  to  the  fortress  where 
the  Doric  pillar  lies,  relates  to  a  structure  so 


(4)  Pans.  ibid.    The  water  of  this  spring  was  laid  to  be  wuiv  iJW. 
Upon  these  words  Kuhnhu  adds  the  following  note:  "  Unde  ex  hoe 

fonte  aquam  petebant  in  ususdomesticos  puelU  Corinthiorum,  uti  patet 
exetnplo  Laidos  adhuc  puelUt  vdpofopovatig  curb  rfc  Uitprjvrjs ;  lib.  xlii. 
Atheruci.  Idem  hie  lib.  ii.  de  fontu  hujut  aquA :  <rraOpi)<rag  rb  &irb  rifg 
lp  KopivOy  Uiipi)vtic  KaXovfiivtjc  tifop,  KovfSrepov  t&vtvv  tdpov 
rmv  Kara  r$v  *EXXa£a,  quum  ad  libram  exeoissem,  Inquit,  aquam 
Phones  fontis  Corinthii,levissimameam  omnium  in  totd  Orsecia  depre- 
hmd"    VUL  Annot.  KuhnU  in  Paus.  lib.  Ii.  e.  3.  p.  117.    Zips.  1606. 

(5)  Vid.  Paus.  in  Corinth,  c.  6.  p.  122.  ed.  Kuhn.    Strabon.  Oeog. 
lib.  riii.  p.  660.    ed.  Oxon. 


560  PELOPONNESUS. 

long  rased,  that  it  may  have  been  overlooked 
by  Pausanias,  as  it  was  by  modern  travellers 
until  our  arrival :  and  if  this  be  the  case,  it  may 
be  a  relic  of  the  Sisyphium ;  a  mole,  or  bulwark, 
not  mentioned  by  that  writer,  but  noticed  by 
Diodorus  Siculus  and  by  Strabo.  As  Chandler 
has  placed  the  Sisyphhim  elsewhere,  we  shall 
presently  have  occasion  to  say  something  fur- 
ther concerning  this  structure.  The  Corinthians 
had  also  a  Hieron  to  all  the  Gods1,  where  there 
was  a  statue  of  .Neptune  with  a  Dolphin  spouting 
forth  water ;  but  the  water  of  the  dolphin  was 
conveyed  by  means  of  an  aqueduct,  and  was 
not  a  natural  spring2. 

In   going   from    the    area  of    this   building 


(1)  QioTq  naoiv  'Iepov.  Pausan.  in  Corinth,  c.  2.  p.  116.  Ed.  Ktihn'tL 

(2)  The  carious  marble  discovered  by  the  Earl  of  Aberdeen  at  Corinth, 
and  since  brought  to  England,  which  was  found  covering  the  mouth  of  an 
antient  well,  may  have  been  the  identical  Hieron  here  alluded  to  by  Pm- 
sanias.    The  word  'If  pdv,  it  is  true,  is  translated  Templum  by  Amatmut ; 
bat  it  does  not  appear  probable  that  this  could  be  the  author's  meaning; 
because  he  is  actually  speaking  of  a  Temple  (Tt>x>?c  vabg),  by  which  he 
says  the  Hieron  stood.     Uapd  H  avrb  0<ocg  iraoiv  loriv  Upov.    It  is 
therefore  at  least  probable  that  all  he  intends,  in  this  passage,  by  the 
word  Hieron  is  the  representation  of  the  Heathen  Deitiet  upon  the  mar- 
ble bas-relief  that  covered  the  mouth  of  a  well  by  which  the  Temple  of 
Fortune  stood.     If  all  the   Hiera  of  Pautaniat  were  to  be  translated 
Temples,  there  would  have  been  more  templet  in  Greece  than  the  whole 
world  besides. 


CORINTH. 


551 


towards  the  magnificent  remains  of  a  temple  c*£p* 
now  standing  above  the  Bazar  whence  perhaps 
the  Doric  pillar  already  mentioned  may  have 
been  removed,  we  found  the  ruins  of  antient 
buildings;  particularly  of  one  partly  hewn  in 
the  rock  opposite  to  the  said  Temple.  The  out- 
side of  this  exhibits  the  marks  of  cramps  for 
sustaining  slabs  of  marble  once  used  in  covering 
the  walls;  a  manner  of  building,  perhaps,  not 
of  earlier  date  than  the  time  of  the  Romans. 
Pliny  mentions  the  time  when  this  kind  of  orna- 
ment began  to  be  introduced  at  JRonuP.  The 
Greeks  sometimes  decorated  marble  edifices 
after  the  same  manner,  but  with  plates  of 
metal4.  In  this  building  were  several  cham- 
bers all  hewn  in  the  rock,  and  one  of  them  has 
still  an  oblong  window  remaining.  We  then 
visited  the  Temple.  It  has  been  described  by 
all  travellers  for  near  a  century  and  a  half.  In 
Wheler'a  time  it  had  eleven  Doric  pillars  stand- 
ing5: the  same  number  remained  when  Chandler 


(S)  "  Primum  Romse  parietet  crust&  mannoris  operoiue  totiui  dom&a 
in  Ccelio  monte  Cornelius  Nepos  tradidit  Mamarram  Formils 
natmn,  eqnitem  Romanum,  preefectara  fabrorom  C.  CflBsaris  in  Gallia,** 
PUm.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  zzxri.  e.  6.  torn.  III.  p.  477.    L.  Bat.  1635. 

(4)  See  the  description  given  of  the  Gymnarium  at  Alexandria  Troas, 
in  the  former  Section. 

(5)  See  Wheler>s  Jo  urn.  into  Greece,  p.  440.    Lond.  1682. 


552  -  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  visited  the  place1.  We  found  only  seven 
remaining  upright :  but  the  fluted  shaft  before 
mentioned  may  originally  have  belonged  to  this 
building,  the  stone  being  alike  in  both  ;  that  is 
to  say,  common  limestone,  not  marble :  and  the 
dimensions  are,  perhaps,  exactly  the  same  in 
both  instances,  if  each  column  could  be  mea- 
sured at  its  base.  When  Wheler  was  here,  the 
pillars  were  more  exposed  towards  their  bases ; 
and  being  there  measured,  he  found  them  to 
equal  eighteen  feet  in  circumference,  allowing 
a  diameter  of  six  feet  for  the  lower  part  of  the 
shaft  of  each  pillar.  Only  five  columns  of  the 
seven  now  support  an  entablature*  We  mea- 
sured the  circumference  of  these,  (as  we  con- 
ceived, about  three  feet  from  their  bases,)  and 
found  it  to  equal  seventeen  feet  two  inches. 
Each  column  consists  of  one  entire  piece  of 
stone,  but  their  height,  instead  of  being  equal 
to  six  diameters,  the  tine  proportion  of  the 
Doric  shaft  according  to  Pliny,  does  not  amount 
to  four.  The  destruction  that  has  taken  place, 
of  four  columns  out  of  the  eleven  seen  by 
Wheler  and  Chandler,  had  been  accomplished  by 
the  Governor,  who  used  them  in  building  a 
house ;  first  blasting  them  into  fragments  with 


(1)  trar.  in  Greece,  p.  230.     Ox/.  1776. 


CORINTH.  553 

npowder.     Chandler  suspected  this  temple  to   chap. 
ire  been  the  Sisyphtum  mentioned  by  Strabo* f 


t  without  assigning  any  reason  for  this  con-  sjwm 
ture.  Nothing  can  be  easier  than  an  arbi- 
ry  disposal  of  names  among  the  scanty  relics 
a  city  once  so  richly  adorned ;  nor  can  any 
ng  be  more  difficult  than  to  prove  that  such 
nes  have  been  properly  bestowed.  The  Sisy- 
ft/m  was  a  building  of  such  uncertain  form, 
t  Strabo,  eighteen  centuries  ago,  could  not 
itively  pronounce  whether  it  had  been  a 
pie  or  a  palace? ;  whereas  the  first  sight  of 
s,  even  in  its  present  dilapidated  state,  would 
re  been  sufficient  to  put  that  matter  beyond 
pute.  The  Sisyphhim  was  situate  below  the 
ratain  Pirene,  and  built  (Acwcy  A(0<p)  with 
Ite  stone;  an  expression  generally  used  to 
aify  marble,  both  by  Strabo  and  by  Pausardas. 
5  present  building  does  not  answer  this 
cription.  The  Sisypheum  is  not  once  men- 
led  by  Pausanias ;  which  could  not  have  been 
case,  if  its  remains  were  of  this  magnitude. 
»  only  antient  author  by  whom  the  Sisyph&um 
been    noticed,    excepting     by    Strabo,    is 

)  *Yir&  Zl  r§  Utiprjvy  rb  ^KrOfuSv  l<rriy,  Upov  tivoq,  %  fiaaSknovt 
f\iOtf  wtir(HrjfJuvovt(sic  leg.  Cataub.)  liaoitTfiv  Iptlwta  ofc  6\lycr 
km.  Geog.  lib.  till.  p.  550.    ed.  Oxon. 
)lbid. 


654  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.  ZHodorus  Siculus ;  who  describes  it  as  a  place 
wrv^t  strongly  fortified,  near  to  the  Citadel1.  As  to  the 
real  history  of  this  very  antient  temple,  the  style 
and  the  materials  of  its  architecture  have  in- 
duced some  to  refer  its  origin  to  the  earliest 
periods  of  the  Dorian  power  in  Peloponnesus. 
We  confess  we  are  not  quite  of  this  opinion : 
the  disproportion  of  the  length  of  the  pillars  to 
their  diameters,  is  with  us  an  argument,  rather 
against,  than  for,  their  high  antiquity.  If  we 
may  credit  the  testimony  afforded  by  so  late  a 
writer  as  Martin  Crusius*,  founded  probably 
upon  tradition,  this  building  was  the  Temple  of 
Juno  ;  and  his  statement  agrees  with  JPausamas, 
who  mentions  a  Hieron  of  Buncean  Juno*,  below 
the  Acrocorinthics :  but  as  it  amounted  almost  to 
a  certainty,  that  so  considerable  a  structure 
must  have  been  mentioned  by  the  latter  writer 
with  a  more  distinct  clue  as  to  its  situation, 
there  seems  to  be  no  edifice  noticed  by  him 
with  which  it  more  accurately  corresponds, 
Temple  of  than  with   the  Temple    of  Octavia,   sister  of 

Octavid* 

Augustus;  unto    whom    the    Corinthians    were 


(1)  Diodor.  Sicul.  lib.  zx.  p.  480.    ed.  Wesseling. 
(3)  Mart.  Cms.  Turtograeia. 

(3)  Tavrtj  icai  rb  rijc  Bovvaiac  ttrnv^Rpag  Up6v.    Pout.  Cor.  c.  4. 
p.  121.    ed.  Kuhn. 


CORINTH.  555 

indebted  for  the  restoration  of  their  city :  this 
temple  occupied  the  same  situation  with  respect 
to  the  ,Agora4  that  the  present  Ruin  does  with 
regard  to  the  Bazar ;  and  it  is  well  known,  that 
however  the  prosperity  of  cities  may  rise  or 
fall,  the  position  of  a  public  mart  for  buying 
and  selling  usually  remains  the  same.  We  do 
not,  however,  bestow  this  name  upon  it;  but 
leave  its  history  to  be  hereafter  determined; 
when  future  discoveries,  upon  the  spot,  shall 
have  made  the  antiquities  of  Corinth  better 
known  than  they  are  at  present. 

While  we  were  occupied  in  examining  this 
building,  and  in  collecting  the  different  frag- 
ments of  antient  pottery  scattered  among  the 
Ruins,  the  Governor  sent  to  desire  that  we 
would  visit  him.     We  found  him  sitting   in  aviiittoth* 

..    ,  lit  Go?ernor. 

mean  little  open  apartment,  attended  by  one 
of  those  French  agents,  who,  under  the  name  of 
apothecaries,  carried  on,  at  this  time,  a  very 
regular  system  of  espionnage  throughout  the 
Turkish  empire  ;  and  especially  in  Greece.  This 
gentleman  offered  to  be  our  interpreter:  we 
told    him  that   we   had   with  us  a  person  who 


(4)  "Trip  Si  ri)v  'ArOPAN  Iftriv  '0KTABIA2  NA02,  *.r.  X.  Pom. 
Cor.  c.  9.  p.  116.    ed.  Kuhnii. 


556  PELOPONNE8U9. 

chap,  always  acted  in  that  capacity;  bat  as  the 
Governor  seemed  to  prefer  the  Frenchman,  we 
acquiesced ;  and,  after  the  usual  ceremony  of 
pipes  and  coffee,  a  parley  began.  The  firet 
questions  put  to  us  related  to  our  travels; 
accompanied  by  many  shrugs  and  shrewd  sar- 
casms as  to  the  vagrant  life  led  by  Ujowrs  in 
general.  All  this  was  interpreted  to  us  by  the 
Frenchman,  interlarded  with  every  scurrilous 
epithet  he  could  pour  forth  against  the  old  Turk, 
but  bowing  his  head  all  the  while  with  great 
seeming  gravity  and  decorum,  as  if  he  were 
bestowing  upon  him  the  most  honourable  titles. 
The  Governor  was  evidently  out  of  temper;  and 
presently  the  cause  was  manifest.  "  Your 
Tchohadar  has  been  here/'  said  he,  "  and  tells 
me  you  intend  to  take  up  your  abode  in  this 
place,  that  you  may  repose  and  take  your  caif1 ; 
but  you  have  brought  me  no  present."  We  said 
that  we  neither  gave  nor  received  mere  gifts  of 
ceremony.  "Then  who  are  ye?"  added  he, 
somewhat  sharply.  "  English  (Effendies)  Gen- 
tlemen," was  the  answer.  •* Effendies  truly! 
and  is  it  like  an  Effendi  to  be  seen  picking  up 


(1)  Caify  (or  Kafy)  is  aliment  or  nourishment  In  Arab.  Diet;  bel 
in  Turkey y  the  word  Catf  is  often  used  to  denote  enUrimmmaU  or 
comfort. 


CORINTH.  557 

pieces  of  broken  pots,  and  groping  among  heaps 
of   rubbish  V9    There    was    so    much  apparent 
reason  in  this  remark,   and   it  was   so   utterly 
impossible  to  explain  to  a  Turk  the  real  nature 
or  object  of  such  researches,   that   we  agreed 
with  the  Frenchman  it  was  best  to  let  him  have 
his  opinion9  and,    passing   quietly   for  paupers 
beneath   his  notice,    make   our  obeisance   and 
retire.      This  was   the  first  instance,  since  we 
quitted  the  Turkish  frigate,  in  which  ourjirmdn, 
and  the  letter  from  the  Capudan   Pasha,  had 
failed  in  procuring  for  us  a  favourable  reception ; 
and  we  began  to  fear  that  among  the  Turks, 
especially  in  the  distant  provinces,  our  creden- 
tials would  have  little  weight,   unaccompanied 
by  bribes.     Ibrahim,  however,  maintained  that 
it  was  all  owing  to  his  not  being  present  upon 
the  occasion ;  and  desired  us  in  future  to  make 
no  visits  unaccompanied  by  him.     A  few  cere- 
monial expressions,  and  a  little  etiquette,  were 
alone  wanting,  he  said;    and   perhaps   he  was 
right 

There  is  a  considerable  Ruin,  consisting 
entirely  of  brick-work,  which  may  have  been 
a  part  of  the  Gymnasium.  We  were  unable  to 
find  the  Theatre,  or  any  remains  of  a  Stadium ; 
but  close  to  the  Bazar  we  saw  part  of  a  very 


558  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,   large  structure,  built  entirely  of  tiles,  or  thin 
w^w   bricks.     The  people  of  the  place  remembered 

Odium.  *       r  r 

this  more  perfect;  and  they  described  it  as  a 
building  full  of  seats,  ranged  one  above  the 
other.  Possibly,  therefore,  it  may  have  been 
the  0<Uumx\  unless,  indeed,  it  were  an  Amphi- 
theatre, or  a  Theatre  raised  entirely  from  the 
ground,  like  the  Coliseum  at  Rome;  without 
being  adapted  to  any  natural  slope.  When  we 
reached  the  house  where  we  were  to  pass  the 
night,  the  author  was  again  attacked  with  a 
violent  paroxysm  of  fever,  and  remained  until 
the  morning  stretched  upon  the  floor  in  great 
climate  of  agony.  The  air  of  Corinth  is  so  bad,  that  its 
inhabitants  abandon  the  place  during  the  sum- 
mer months.  They  are  subject  to  the  malaria 
fever,  and  pretend  to  remove  it  by  all  those 
superstitious  practices  which  are  common  in 
every  country  where  medical  science  is  little 
known.  We  procured  some  terra-cottas  of  very 
indifferent  workmanship,  much  inferior  to  those 
found  near  Argos;  also  a  few  medals  and  gems. 
There  were  no  Inscriptions ;  nor  was  there  to  be 
seen  a  single  fragment  of  antient  sculpture. 
Such  is  now  the   condition   of  this  celebrated 


(1 )  Vid.  PauMan.  Corinth,  c.  3.  p.  1 18.    ed  Kuhniu 


CORINTH.  559 

seat  of  antient  art — this  renowned  city,  once  so   chap. 
vain  of  its  high  reputation,  and  of  the  rank  it 
held  among  the  States  of  Greece. 

We  resolved  to  devote  as  much  of  our  time 
as  possible  to  the  examination  of  the  Isthmus ; 
for  although  but  a  small  district,  it  had  been 
hitherto  so  imperfectly  surveyed  by  modern 
travellers,  that  the  site  of  the  Isthmian 
Games  had  never  been  accurately  ascertained. 
Chandler,  and  his  successors,  had  affirmed  that 
u  neither  the  Theatre  nor  the  Stadium  were 
visible*."  The  mischief  arising  from  such 
assertions  is  this ;  that  the  persons  who  come 
afterwards,  being  thereby  persuaded  that  all 
due  diligence  has  been  used  in  a  research  which 
has  proved  fruitless,  willingly  avoid  the  trouble 
of  making  any  further  inquiry.  We  shall  pre- 
sently shew,  not  only  that  remains  of  the 
Stadium,  of  the  Temple,  and  of  the  Theatre,  do 
yet  exist,  but  that  very  considerable  traces  of 
the  Isthmian  Town  itself  may  be  discerned ; 
plainly  denoting  the  spot  once  consecrated  to 
the  Isthmian  solemnities,  which  continued  to  be 
celebrated  long  after  the  destruction  of  the 
city  of  Corinth*. 


(S)  8m  Chandler" $  Tra?.  in  Greece,  p.  243.    Oirf.  1776,  *c 
(S)  Vld.  Pau$an.  ibid.  p.  114 


CHAP.  X. 


PELOPONNESUS  AND  ATTICA. 

Visit  to  the  Isthmus — Remains  of  the  Antient 
Vallum —  Canaloj 'Nero — Lechse  um —  Cinerary 
receptacles  in  the  rocks — Remarkable  Tumulus 
— Acrocorinthus — Ascent  to  the  Citadel — Hiera 
■ — Prospect  from  the  Summit — Ilexamillia — 
Discovery  of  the  town  oj 'Isthmus — Port  Schceous 
—  Temple  of  Neptune — Theatre — Stadium— 
Sepulchreqf  Palsemon — TreesfromwhichVictors 
in  the  Isthmia  were  crowned — Extraordinary 
Mart  for  Grecian  Medals — Dress  •£■  ike 
Levant  Consuls — PandceanHorn — Cenchreae— 
Bath  of  Helen  —  Convangee  —  Cromyon — 
Manners 


CORINTH. 


561 


Manners  of  the  Peasants — Scironian  Defile — 
Boundary  between  Peloponnesus  and  Hellas — 
K  AKH  SKAAA — Entrance  of  Hellas—  Causes  of 
the  celebrity  of  Megara — The  modern  town — 
Inscriptions— Journey   to    Eleusis — Kerata — 
JEleustnian    Plain  —Acropolis    of    Eleusis — 
Marble  Torso — The  Flowery  Well — Aqueduct 
— Temple  of  Ceres— Statue  of  the  Goddess — 
Superstition  of  the  Inhabitants — Inscription — 
Sudden  departure  for    Athens — Via  Sacra — 
Vast  extent  of  Antient  Thrace— The  Rh£ti— 
Eleusinian  Cephissus — Salt  Lake — Defile  of 
Daphne— The  Rock  called  Poecile— Temple  of 
Venus — Monastery    of  Daphne — Hieron    of 
Apollo—  View  of  Athens  at  sunset — Athenian 
Cephissus — Site  of  the  Academy — Arrival  at 
Athens — Negotiation  with  the  Waiwode — Re- 
turn  to  Eleusis — Method  devised  for  removing 
the  Statue  of  Ceres — Difficulties  encountered — 
Success  of  the  undertaking — Further  account  of 
Eleusis — Long  Walls — Of  the  Rharian  and 
Thriasian    Plains — Temples   of  Triptolemus, 
of  Neptune,  and  of  Diana  Propyleea — Temple 
of  Ceres — Port  of  Eleusis — Antient  Theatre 
— Acropolis — Return  to  Athens. 

XJpon  the  thirteenth  of  November  we  set  out  for   chap. 

x. 
the  Isthmus.     Before  leaving  the  town,  there  v^sj*^/ 

is  a  fountain  upon  the  left  hand  ;  and  opposite  to  JJJJJS^*' 

it  there  are  the  ruins  of  some  antient  building. 

Soon  after,   we  noticed  another  fountain  upon 

our  right :  and  here  may  be   observed  the   old 

paved   road  leading  from  the  natural  platform 

vol.  vi.  o  o 


562  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,    whereon  the  city  stood,  into  the  plain  of  the 
s^j    Isthmus,  which  lies  below  this  level.     We  de- 
scended  towards  it      The   vestiges  of  antient 
buildings  are  visible  the  whole  way  down.     We 
presently  arrived  at  the  neck  of  the  Isthmus,  and 
came  to  the  remains  of  the  antient  wall  erected 
by  the  Peloponnesians,  from  the  Gulpk  of  Corinth 
to  the  Sinus  Saronicus.    The  ground  here   is 
formed  in  such  a  manner  as  to  present  a  natural 
Remain  of  rampart ;  but  there  are  distinct  traces  of  the  old 
va  num.    Vallum ;  and  we  saw  the  ruins  of  a  fortress,  or  of 
some  other  building,  at  its  termination  upon  the 
Corinthian  side  of  the  Isthmus.    The  remains  of 
another  wall  may  be  also  traced  beyond  this, 
towards   the  north-east.     Here  we  found  what 
Cuaiof    interested  us  much  more,  the  unfinished  Canal 

Hero 

began  by  Nero,  exactly  as  the  workmen  had  left 
it,  in  a  wide  and  deep  channel,  extending  n.  w# 
Uth*um.  an(j  s#  E  an(j  reaching  from  the  sea  to  the  s.  e.  of 
Lechceum,  about  half  a  mile  across  the  Isthmus.  It 
terminates  on  the  s.  e.  side,  where  the  solid  rock 
opposed  an  insurmountable  obstacle  to  the  work; 
and  here  the  undertaking  was  abandoned.  Close 
to  the  spot  where  the  Canal  ceases,  are  two  im- 
mense tumuli1 ;  and  these,  in  the  general  sacking 


(1)  See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter. 


isthmus  of  cobinth.  663 

of  Corinthian  sepulchres  mentioned  by  Strabo*,  chap. 
seem  to  have  escaped  violation ;  for  their 
entrances,  although  visible,  appear  never  to  have 
been  opened  since  they  were  closed,  and  are 
almost  buried.  Beneath  these  tombs  there  are 
caves  in  the  rocks  ;  and  one  of  the  tumuli  seems 
to  be  stationed  over  a  sepulchral  cavern  of  this 
kind.  The  remarkable  accuracy  of  Pausanias 
is  perhaps  in  no  instance  more  strikingly  mani- 
fested than  in  the  description  he  has  given  of  the 
Canal ;  corresponding,  even  to  the  letter,  with  its 
present  appearance3.  We  followed  the  Canal  to 
the  shore.  Here  we  observed  that  the  rocks 
had  been  hewn  into  steps,  for  landing  goods  from 
the  port  towards  the  Canal  and  other  works. 
The  remains  of  the  Temple  of  Neptune  are  very 
considerable.  It  has  not  yet  ceased  to  be  a  place 
of  worship.  We  found  here  one  of  the  idol 
pictures  of  the  Greek  Church,  and  some  antient 
vases,  although  in  a  broken  state,  serving  as 
vessels  and  offerings  upon  the  present  altar. 
There  is  a  bath  to  which  they  still  bring  patients 
for  relief  from  various  disorders.     A  short  time 


(2)  Vid.  Stratum.  Geog.  lib.  viii.  pp.  553,  554.    ed.  Oxon.  1807. 

(3)  Kal  %9tv  fik%> iiopvoouv  rjpZavro,  Srj\6v  tarip,  ic  ti  rbwtrptMic 
oh  wpoixmpiivav]  <&px)?v.  Pausan.  in  Corinthiac.  c.  1.  p.  112.  ed. 
JKvJbm.   See  also  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter. 

O   O   2 


564  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  before  our  arrival,  this  antient  bath  was  covered ; 
^tv  but  wanting  materials  for  building  a  mill,  the 
inhabitants  of  a  neighbouring  village  blasted  the 
rocks;  and  these  foiling  into  the  bath,  have 
almost  filled  it.  The  water  of  it  is  very  clear 
and  brilliant ;  its  taste  slightly  brackish,  but  the 
saline  flavour  scarcely  perceptible.  It  comes 
out  of  the  rock  from  two  holes  into  the  bath,  and 
thence  foils  into  the  sea.  Great  part  of  the 
ruined  buildings  and  walls  about  the  bath  were 
carried  off  when  the  mill  was  built.  At  noon 
we  made  the  following  estimate,  by  means  of 
our  thermometer,  of  the  temperature  of  the  at- 
mosphere ;  of  the  water  of  this  warm  chalybeate 
spring  ;  and  also  of  the  water  of  the  sea. 

Atmosphere,  in  the  shade      •     68°  of  Fahrenheit. 
Water  of  the  bath,  in  the  shade,  88°. 
Water  of  the  sea      ....     75°. 

Cinerary    All  around  this  place  are  sepulchral  caves  hewn 

Reoepta-  * 

cies  iu  the  m  the  rocks  near  the  sea,  resembling:  the  burial- 
Rocks.  . 

places  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Jerusalem;  but 
the  caves  here  are  much  smaller  ;  and  the  re- 
cesses within  them,  instead  of  being  intended 
as  receptacles  for  bodies,  were  evidently  niches 
for  cinerary  urns1 ;  a  mode  of  sepulture  relating 

(1)  There  is  an  engraved  representation  of  these  Care*  in  Montfem- 
eon's  Antiquities,  taken  from  the  Travels  of  M.  de  Moncecnu:  ;  bat  the 
niches  are  inaccurately  delineated,  and  they  are  filled  with  imaginary 
urns. 


PELOPONNESUS.  565 

rather  to  the  Romans  than  to  the  Gereks :  whence    chap. 

x    x 
it  may  be  proved  that  these  excavations  cannot  ^ 

be  more  antient  than  the  restoration  of  Corinth 

by  Julius  Ccesar,  and  in  all  probability  they  are 

of  a  much  later  age. 

In  the  second  century  the  inhabitants  of 
Corinth  consisted  entirely  of  the  remains  of  that 
colony  which  had  been  sent  thither  by  the  Bo- 
mans2.  The  original  race,  with  all  their  customs 
and  habits,  had  long  been  removed.  In  general, 
we  found  three  niches,  placed  in  a  row,  in  every 
cave ;  but  in  some  instances  the  caves  were  double; 
and  within  each  of  the  chambers  there  appeared 
a  double  row  of  recesses  of  different  forme,  pro- 
bably adapted,  in  every  instance,  to  the  shape 
of  the  vessel  intended  to  contain  the  ashes  of  a 
deceased  person  ;  many  of  them  being  little 
arched  recesses,  and  others  oblong  rectangular 
cavities  suited  to  the  shape  of  those  cinerary 
receptacles  which  have  been  occasionally  found, 
made  of  marble  or  of  terra-cotta,  modelled  after 
the  form  of  a  Grecian  Soros,  but  of  a  diminu- 
tive  size.      Several  of  these   caves  remain  yet 


(2)  K6piv9ov  dk  otKotxTi  KopivOiuv  pkv  ov8iIq  in  rwv  dpgaiwi/, 
iwoucoi  H  dtr*  rraXivrcg  vvb  'Putpalutv.  Pausan.  CorintfUaea,  c.  1.  p. 
lU.o&.KuhnU. 


566  PELOPONNESUS. 


X. 


chap,  unopened  ;  and  some  are  entirely  concealed,  the 
entrances  being  either  buried  beneath  large 
stones,  or  covered  by  soil  and  vegetation. 

We  spent  the  rest  of  this  day  in  the  examina- 
tion of  the  Isthmus,  but  observed  nothing  which 
could  be  considered  as  the  slightest  indication 
of  the  place  where  the  Games  were  celebrated. 
Chandler  had  evidently  laid  down  the  spot  from 
an  erroneous  conjecture1,  founded  upon  the 
observations  of  Wheler :  and  as  he  positively 
asserts**  that  neither  the  Theatre  nor  the  Stadium 
were  visible,  it  is  plain  he  never  visited  the  part 
of  the  Isthmus  to  which  Wheler  has  alluded3. 
We  determined,  therefore,  to  renew  our  search 
upon  the  morrow  ;  and  returned  to  Corinth,  to 
enjoy  the  prospect  from  the  Acrocorinthus  at  the 
setting  of  the  sun.  From  the  place  where  the 
work  of  cutting  the  Canal  was  abandoned,  going 
towards  Corinth,  the  ground  rises  the  whole  way 
to  the  old  Vallum ;  and  there  are  tombs  in  the 
whole  acclivity  towards  the  Acrocorinthus.  Be- 
fore arriving  at  the  wall  in  this  direction,  there  is 


(1)  See  the  "  Chart  of  the  Isthmus  of  Corinth"  facing  p.  234.  of 
Chandler'*  Trav.  in  Greece.  Oxf.  1770. 

(2)  See  Chandler,  ibid.  p.  243. 

(3)  See  Wheler'*  "  Journey  into  Greece,"  Book  vi.  p.  437.    Loud. 
1682. 


ACR0C0B1NTHUS.  567 

a  lofty  and  very  entire  Tumulus,  which  is  covered   chap. 
with  a  whitish  earth  and  with  stones.     This,  ^vw 
owing  to  its  magnitude  and  situation,  it  would  m?twI 
be  very  desirable  to  have  opened.    According lui> 
to  Pausanias,  the  sepulchre  of  Sisyphus  was  in 
the  Isthmus,  although  his  tomb  could  not  be 
pointed  out1.     We  crossed  the  wall  again,  and 
observed  in  the  more  antient  parts  of  it  some 
stones  of  immense  size ;  but  where  the  masonry 
was  more  modern  the  parts  were  of  less  mag- 
nitude.    We  visited  several  antient  stone  quar- 
ries which  were  very  large ;  all  the  hills  to  the 
left    were  covered  with  these  quarries  :    they 
extend  principally  in  a  straight  line,  east  and 
west. 

The  stupendous  rock  of  the  Acrocorinthus,  thus. 
from  whatever  part  of  the  Isthmus  it  is  viewed, 
appears  equally  conspicuous :  opposing  so  bold 
a  precipice,  and  such  a  commanding  eminence 
high  above  every  approach  to  the  Peninsula,  that 
if  properly  fortified,  it  would  render  all  access 
to  the  Morea,  by  land,  impracticable ;  and  as  a 
fortress,  it  might  be  rendered  not  less  secure 


(4)  Vid.  Pautan.  in  Corinthiac.  c.  2.  p.  114.    ed.  Kuknii.    See  the 
Vignett*  for  the  situation  of  this  tomb. 


588  PELOPomrBBus. 

crap,  than  that  of  Gibraltar.  It  was  therefore  very 
^v'w  aptly  named  by  an  antient  Oracle  (and  in  times 
when  the  art  of  war  was  incapable  of  giving  to 
it  the  importance  it  might  now  possess)  one  of 
the  horns  which  a  conqueror  ought  to  lay  bold 
upon,  in  order  to  secure  that  valuable  heifer* 
the  Peloponnesus. 

When  we  returned  to  Corinth,  we  found  that 
the  Governor,  who  began  to  be  uneasy  at  our 
scrutinizing  observations,  and  considered  us 
as  nothing  better  than  spies,  would  not  grant 
us  permission  for  entering  within  the  Citadel  i 
all  that  we  could  obtain  was,  a  privilege  of 
ascending  to  the  summit  of  the  rock,  as  far  as 
the  outside  of  the  gate  of  the  fortress1.  The 
Ascent  to  whole  of  this  ascent,  in  the  time  of  Pausanias, 

the  Citadel. 

Biera.  was  distinguished  by  Hiera  stationed  at  certain 
intervals2,  after  the  manner  in  which  little  shrines 
and  other  sanctuaries  now  appear  by  the  way 


(1)  Lusieri  afterwards  obtained  access  to  the  interior,  through  the 
interest  of  the  British  Minister  at  the  Porte ;  but  he  was  narrowly 
watched  the  whole  time :  and  during  the  short  stay  he  made,  under 
the  pretence  of  directing  any  improvement  that  might  be  necessary 
in  the  fortifications,  he  observed  no  remains  of  antiquity,  excepting 
the  shaft  of  a  small  pillar,  which  perhaps  might  hare  belonged  to  the 
Temple  of  Venue. 

(2)  Vid.  Pausan*  in  Corinthiac.  c.  4.  p.  121.    ed.  Kuknii.    'Aviovtri 
&  £i£  tqv  'Kkqok6qiv9ov,  k.  t.  X. 


ACROCORINTHU8.  569 

side,  in  the  passes  and  heights  of  mountains  in  chap. 
Catholic  countries.  A  person  unacquainted  with 
the  nature  of  such  an  ascent,  reading  his  cata- 
logue of  the  different  objects  as  they  occurred, 
might  suppose  they  were  so  many  temples,  in- 
stead of  niches,  shrines,  and  votive  receptacles.  In 
the  different  contests  which  Neptune  is  said 
to  have  had  for  the  Grecian  territories,  one 
was  also  assigned  to  him  for  the  Isthmus  and 
Acropolis  of  Corinth :  and  as  the  watery  god 
disputed  with  Juno  and  with  Minerva  for  the 
possession  of  the  Argive  and  of  the  Athenian 
plains,  so,  in  his  struggle  to  maintain  the  sove- 
reignty of  the  Corinthian  region,  he  is  fabled 
to  have  retained  possession  of  the  Isthmus,  when 
the  lofty  rock  of  the  Citadel  was  adjudged  to 
the  Sun;  a  fable  founded  on  no  very  dark 
tradition  respecting  the  existence  of  this  moun- 
tain above  the  waters  of  the  sea,  long  before 
they  had  entirely  abandoned  the  plain  of  the 
Isthmus.  That  the  Peloponnesus  had  been  once 
an  island,  was  not  only  an  opinion  of  the  Antients 
concerning  it,  but  a  memorial  of  the  fact  is 
preserved  in  the  name  it  always  retained3  of 


(3)  IIEAOIIOE  NH202.  (Vid.  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  vil.  p.  466.  Oxon. 
1807.)  niXotrof  pkv  U  rijg  Qpvytac  iirayofiivov  Xabv  tic  rrjv  Air' 
ai»rovrXi|0€uravIIEAOlIONNH2ON,*c.  r.  X. 


570  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.  <<  the  Island  of  Pelops."  The  antiquities,  as  they 
were  noticed  by  Pausanias\  in  the  ascent  of  the 
Acrocorinthus,  are  as  follow :  two  shrines  of  Ins ; 
two  of  Serapis ;  the  altars  of  the  Sun ;  and  a 
Hieron  called  that  of  Necessity  and  Violence 
wherein  it  was  not  lawful  to  enter.  It  is  diffi- 
cult to  understand  what  was  meant  by  this 
last ;  unless  it  were  a  place  of  refuge*  like  some 
of  the  sanctuaries  in  Italy,  into  which  it  is  un- 
lawful to  follow  any  fugitive  offender  who  has 
there  sheltered  himself  from  pursuit.  Above 
this  was  a  Temple  (vao?)  of  the  Mother  of  the 
Gods;  a  StiU ;  and  a  Seat  (0p<Jv©c)  of  stone.  There 
seem  also  to  have  been  fanes  consecrated  to  the 
Parca,  containing  images  which  were  not  ex- 
posed to  view ;  and  near  to  the  same  spot,  a 
Hieron  of  Juno  Buncea.  Upon  the  summit  itself 
stood  another  Temple  (vaoc)  of  Venus.  In  all 
this  list,  there  is  mention  made  of  two  structures 
only  which  can  properly  be  considered  as 
temples;  that  is  to  say,  the  Temple  of  Venus 
upon  the  summit  of  the  rock ;  and  that  of  the 
Mother  of  the  Gods  at  some  resting-place  where 
there  was  a  seat,  perhaps  about  half  way  up. 
Fragments    of    the   former    will    probably    be 


(1)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinthiac.  cap.  4.  p.  121.  ed.  Kuhnii. 


ACROCORINTHUS.  571 

discovered  by  future  travellers  who  have  liberty    chap. 
to  inspect  the   materials   used  in  constructing  v^vw 
the  foundations  and  walls  of  the  citadel.     All 
that  we  observed,  in  going  up,  were  the  remains 
of  an  antient  paved  way  near  the  gate  of  the 
fortress,  and  the  capital  of  an  Ionic  pillar  lying 
near   the  same   place.     We   reached  this  gate  Prospect 
just  before  sun-set;  and   had,  as  it  is  always  summit  of 
usual  from  the  tops  of  any  of  the  Grecian  moun-  coHnthut. 
tains,    a  more  glorious   prospect  than   can  be 
seen  in  any  other  part  of  Europe.     Wheler  calls 
it  "  the  most  agreeable  prospect  this  world  can 
give*."    As  from  the  Parthenon  at  Athens  we  had 
seen  the   Citadel  of  Corinth,  so  now  we  had  a 
commanding  view,  across  the  Sinus  Saronicus  of 
Salamisy  and  of  the  Athenian  Acropolis.    Looking 
down    upon   the    Isthmus,   the   shadow   of   the 
Acrocorinthus,  of  a  conical  shape,  extended  ex- 
actly half  across  its  length,  the  point  of  the  cone 
being  central  between  the  two  seas.     Towards 
the  north  we  saw  Parnassus  covered  with  snow, 
and  Helicon,  and  Cithcsron.     Nearer  to  the  eye 
appeared  the  mountain  Gerania,  between  Megara 
and  Corinth.     But  the  prospect  which  we  sur- 
veyed was  by   no  means  so  extensive  as  that 


(2)  See  u  Journey  into  Greece;*  Book  ti.  p.  422.    Land.  1683. 


572  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.    8een  by  Wheler ;  because  we  were  denied  admis- 
\#vv    gjon  to  the  fortress,  which  concealed  a  part  of 
the  view  towards  our  right.     We  noted,  how- 
ever,  the  following   bearings   by  the    compass 
from  an  eminence  near  the  gate : 

North        Point     of      Obme 

Promontory. 

North  and  by  East      .      .  Helicon. 

North-East  and  by  North,  Summit  of  Gerania. 

East  North  East  .  .  .  The  Isthmus  of 
Corinth,  lying  e.  n.  e.  and  w.  s.  w.  And 
beyond  it,  in  the  same  direction,  the  sum- 
mit of  dthasron. 

East Port  Schoenus ;  and 

beyond  it,  exactly  in  the   same  direction, 
Athens. 

North  and  by  West       .     .  Parnassus. 

North- West  and  by  North,  Sicyonian  Promon- 
tory. 

On  Saturday \  November the  fourteenth,  we  again 
mounted  our  horses,  and  set  out  for  a  village 

HexomiMa.  still  bearing  the  name  of  Hexamillia,  being 
situate  where  the  Isthmus  is  six  miles  over,  and 

Discovery  where  the  antient  town  of  the  same  name  for- 

of  the 

Town  of  merly  stood.  We  had  been  told  that  we  should 
be  able  to  purchase  medals  here  of  the  Albanians ; 
accordingly,  we  provided  ourselves  with  a 
quantity  of  newly-coined  paras,  to  barter  in 
exchange  for  them.  When  we  arrived,  the 
number  of   medals  brought  to   us,    and  their 


573 

ISTHMUS   OF   COR1HTH. 

variety,  were  so  great,  that  we  demanded  of  the   c  j£ p" 
peasants  where  they  had  found  them  in  such  «^v-w 
abundance  ?    One  of  the  inhabitants,  who  spoke 
the  Modern  Greek,  said  they  all  came  from  a 
Pakeo- Castro  to  which  they  often  drove  their 
flocks ;    described  by  them  as  being   near  to  a 
small  port  at  the  extremity  of  the  Isthmus  upon  sck*n4s. 
the  side  of  the  Chilph  of  Egina,  towards  Megara. 
This  could  be  no  other  than  the  Port  Schcenus ; 
and  the  mere  mention  of  this  important  appel- 
lation, Pakeo- Castro,  filled    us  with  the  most 
sanguine  expectations  that  we  should  here  find, 
what  we  had  sought  with  so  much  earnestness, 
the  site  of   the   Isthmian  solemnities.      Such  a 
variety  of  coins  belonging   to  different  and  to 
distant  States  of  Greece,  all  collected  upon  one 
spot,   could  only   be  accounted  for  by  a  refe- 
rence to  the  concourse  so  often  assembled,  in 
consequence  of  the  Sacred  Games,  from  all  parts 
of  Hellas  and  of   Peloponnesus.     We  therefore 
took   one  of  the  peasants  as  our  guide   to  the 
Pakeo- Castro ;  and  leaving  the  others  to  collect 
medals  from  the  different  cottages,  promised   to 
return  in  the  evening,  and  to  purchase  all  they 
might  be  able  to  procure.     Antient  stone  quar- 
ries are  numerous  in  the  hills  above  Hexamillia. 
Beyond    this  village,    towards   Mount    Oneius, 


574  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  which  rises  to  the  north  of  Schtenus  Port,  we 
thought  we  observed  the  form  of  an  antient 
Theatre,  of  which  nothing  but  the  Cation  exists ; 
neither  a  seat  nor  a  stone  remaining.  We  then 
rode  directly  towards  the  port  and  the  moun- 
tain ;  and,  crossing  an  artificial  causeway  over 
a  fosse,  we  arrived  in  the  midst  of  the  Ruins. 
A  speedy  and  general  survey  of  the  antiquities 
here  soon  decided  their  history ;  for  it  was 
evident  that  we  had  at  last  discovered  the  real 
site  of  the  Isthmian  Town,  together  with  the 
Ruins  of  the  Temple  of  Neptune,  of  the  Stadium, 
and  of  the  Theatre1.  The  earth  was  covered 
with  fragments  of  various-coloured  marble,  grey 
granite,  white  limestone,  broken  pottery,  dis- 
jointed shafts,  capitals,  and  cornices.  We 
observed  part  of  the  fluted  shaft  of  a  Doric 
column,  which  was  five  feet  in  diameter.  A 
more  particular  examination  was  now  neces- 
sary ;  and  we  proceeded  immediately  to  trace 
the  different  parts  of  this  scene  of  desolation, 
and  to  measure  them  in  detail. 

We  began  first  to  mark,  with  as  much  precision 


(I)  Vid.  Pauttm.  in  CoriirfA.cap.  1  &2.  pp.111. 112, 113, 114.    fid. 
Kuhnii. 


ISTHMUS   OF   CORINTH.  575 

as  possible,  the  site  of  these  Ruins,  with  re-  chap. 
ference  to  other  objects,  that  future  travellers  v***^ 
(in  direct  contradiction  to  the  statement  made 
by  Chandler)  may  be  guided  to  the  spot,  and 
become  satisfied  of  their  existence.  The  best 
method  of  finding  their  precise  situation  is  to 
attend  to  the  course  of  the  wall  which  traverses 
the  Isthmus ;  for  this,  if  it  be  traced  from  the 
Corinthian  Gulph,  will  be  found  to  make  a  sudden 
turn  before  it  reaches  the  shore  of  the  Sinus 
Saronicus,znd  to  bear  away  towards  MonnlOneius, 
embracing  the  whole  of  the  Port  of  Schcenus,  and 
closing  it  in  upon  the  Corinthian  side.  The  ruins 
of  the  Temple,  Stadium,  Theatre,  together  with 
wells,  and  other  indications  of  the  Isthmian  Town, 
surround  this  port ;  and  they  are,  for  the  most 
part,  situate  upon  its  sides,  sloping  towards 
the  sea.  The  remains  of  the  Temple  of  iVep tone  Temple  of 
are  to  the  west  of  the  Isthmian  Wall;  upon  an  tptvne* 
area  which  is  two  hundred  and  seventy-six 
paces  in  length,  and  sixty-four  in  breadth* 
A  Greek  Chapel,  also  in  a  ruined  state,  now 
stands  upon  the  area  of  the  temple ;  and  this 
seems  to  have  been  the  identical  building  men- 
tioned by  Wheler,  near  to  which  he  found  the 
Inscription  published  by  him,  relative  to  many 
edifices,  not  mentioned  by  Pausanias,  that 
were    repaired    by    Publxus    Licinius    Priscus 


576  PBL0P0NNB8US. 

chap.  Juventianus1.  Indeed  it  is  wonderful,  considering 
the  notice  given  by  him  of  the  Ruins  here,  that 
the    site    of  them  should    afterwards   he    lost. 
The  materials  of  the    temple    are    of  a  white 
limestone2 ;  and  the  workmanship  of  the  capitals, 
the  fluting  of  the  columns,  and  of  other  orna- 
mental   parts  of  the    structure,   are  extremely 
beautiful.     Not  a  single  pillar  remains  erect: 
the  columns,  with   their  entablatures,  have  all 
fallen.     The  building,  by  its   ruins,  appears  to 
have  been  of  the  Corinthian  order ;  but  there  are 
remains  of  other  edifices  in  its  neighbourhood, 
where  the  Doric  order    may  be  observed,  and 
where  the  columns  are  of  greater  magnitude 
than  at  this  temple.     We  measured  some  of  die 
shafts  of  columns  here  that  were  only  two  feet 
nine  inches  in  diameter:  and  this  agrees  with 
a  remark  made  by  Pausanias,  who  states  that 
the  dimensions  of  the  Temple  were   not  extra- 
ordinary3.    The  capitals  are  for  the  most  part 
destitute   of   the   rich  foliage    of  the   acanthus, 
although   finished    with    exquisite  taste  and  in 


(1)  "Journey  into  Greece,"  Book  vi.  p.  438.    LoncL  1682. 

(2)  Called  by  Pausanias  XiOoc  Xevcoc  (vid.  p.  112.  Cormthiae.  c  h 
ed.  Kuhnii) ;  but  this  is  an  expression  often  applied  by  him  where 
marble  has  been  used. 

(3)  T<fi  vai$  8k  ovti  fiiyt9o£  ov  /m'£ovi,  k.  r.  X.     Ibid. 


ISTHMUS  OF   CORINTH.  577 

the  most  masterly  style  of  sculpture.     Among    chap. 
seven  or  eight  of  these  capitals,  we  found  only  *     ¥  *  ' 
one  with  the  acanthus  ornament :  yet  the  edges 
of    the    canelure    upon    all   the  shafts    of   t\\e 
columns  at  this  temple  were  flattened,  and  not 
sharp    as    in    much    larger    pillars    which    we 
observed    higher  up   towards    the    wall.      We 
found  also   a   pedestal,    which  measured  at  its 
base   four   feet    and   four  inches.     The    fallen 
architraves  and  other  parts  of  the   entablature 
also  remain.     To  the  south   wall  of  the  area  of 
the  Temple  adjoined  the  Theatre ;  the  Coilon  of  Theatre. 
which,  almost   filled  and   overwhelmed  by  the 
ruins  of  the  Temple  and  by  the  effect  of  earth- 
quakes, yet  remains,  facing  the  Port  Schcenus. 
West  of  the    Theatre  is  the  Stadium4,  at  right  stadium. 
.  angles  to  the  Isthmian  Wall :  it  has  very  high 
sides ;  and  even  in  its  present  state,  the  stone 
front- work  and  some    of  the   benches   remain 
at    its    upper    end,    although    earthquakes  or 
torrents  have  forced    channels  into  the    arena. 
It  extends  east  and  west,  parallel  to  one  side  of 
the  area  of  the  Temple,  to  which  it  was  adjoined. 
Just  at  the  place  where  the  Isthmian  Wall  joins 


(4)  Ota?  U  ahrWt  &l%a  tVn  plv  GEATPON,  fore  *£  £TA A10N  XiOov 
Xivkov.  PauHtn.  in  Corinth,  c.  1.  p.  112     ed.  Kuhnii, 

VOL     VI.  P    P 


578  PELOPOHNE8US. 


.  chap.  Mount  Oneitcs,  is  a  Tumulus,  perhaps  that  which 
i^v^  was  supposed  to  contain  the  body  of  Mbu- 
BtpnU       certes  ;  in  honour  of  whose  burial  the  Isthmian 

ehre  of  7 

Paiamon.  Games  were  instituted,  above  thirteen  hundred 
years  before  the  Christian  sera.  It  stands  oa  a 
very  conspicuous  eminence  above  the  wall, 
which  here  passes  towards  the  south-south-east, 
quite  to  the  port,  after  reaching  the  mount. 
There  was  within  the  sacred  Peribohis,  ac- 
cording to  Pausaniaf,  a  temple  dedicated  to 
Melicertes,  under  his  posthumous  name  of 
Pakemon* ;  and  it  contained  statues  of  the  boy 
and  of  his  mother  Leucothea,  and  of  Neptune. 
The  situation,  therefore,  of  the  Tomb,  being 
almost  contiguous  with  the  Peribolus,  is  very 
remarkable;  the  whole  of  these  magnificent 
structures,  the  Temples,  the  Theatre,  the  Sta- 
dium, and  the  Isthmia  themselves,  having 
originated  in  the  honours  paid  to  his  sepulchre* 
Going  from  the  Stadium  towards  this  wall,  we 
found  fragments  of  Doric  columns,  whose  shafts 
were  near  six  feet  in  diameter;  the  edges  of 
the   canelure  being  sharp :   these   were  of  the 


(1)  Vid.  Pautan  in  Corinthiac.  c.  2.  p.  US.    ed.  Kuhnii. 

(2)  'EUvtxMvrog  Si  Lg  rbv  KopivBiw  'leQfiby  vicb  BiXfivoQ  («C 
Xkytrat)  rov  irattbc,  rt/iai  cat  aXkai  rif  MEAIKEPTHI  tiiZovrai  pt~ 
rovofia<r9ipri  IIAAAIMONI,  icai  TON 'I2GMIQN  En'  AYTQI  TON 
ATQNA  ArOYZI.    Pausan.  Attica,  c.  44.  p.  108.    ed.  KuhniL 


ISTHMUS  OF  CORINTH.  579 

same  white  limestone  as  the  rest.     But  among  all  chap. 
die  remains  here,  perhaps  the  most  remarkable, 


as  corresponding  with  the  indications  left  us  by  JJSi  vE 
Pausanias  of  the  spot,  is  the  living  family  of  gjjjjjjjj* 
those    Pine-trees,    sacred    to    Neptune,  which, W€fe   _, 

*  crowned. 

he  says,  grew  in  a  right  line,  upon  one  side,  in 
die  approach  to  the  Temple;  the  statues  of 
victors  in  the  Games  being  upon  the  other  side3. 
Many  of  these,  self  sown,  are  seen  on  the 
outside  of  the  wall,  upon  the  slope  of  the  land 
feeing  the  port4.  They  may  also  be  observed 
farther  along  the  coast;  exactly  corresponding 
with  a  remark  made  by  the  same  author,  who 
relates,  that  in  the  beginning  of  the  Isthmus 
there  were  Pine-trees,  to  which  the  robber  Sims 
used  to  bind  his  captives5.  Every  thing  con- 
spires to  render  their  appearance  here  parti- 
cularly interesting:  the  victors  in  the  Isthmia 
were  originally  crowned  with  garlands  made 
of  their  leaves,    although  chaplets  of  parsley 


(9)  'EXflfvri  it  ig  rod  Btov  rb  hpbv,  rovro  piv  AQknrSv  vurnoavruv 
ri'loffua  iarfyuunr  tuc6v*ct  towt*  ii  DITTON  AENAPA  ivrl  *t}v- 
rtvfiiva  Ixi  oroixpv  rd  reXAd  ig  tv6v  avr&v  avijKovra.  Pausaiu 
Corinth,  e.  1.  p.  112.    ed.  Kuhnti. 

(4)  This  pins  is  a  tariety  of  the  Pinus  tytoettrit,  commonly  called 
PvmM  wutritima.  Wheler  called  these  trees  "  Sea  Pines  with  small 
cones."    See  Journey  into  Greece,  p.  446.    Lond,  1682. 

(fi)Vid.  P tutsan,  ibid.  p.  HI. 

P  P   2 


580  PELOPONNESUS.      ' 

chap,  were  afterwards  used  instead  of  them1 :  they 
are  particularly  alluded  to  by  Pausanias,  as  one 
of  the  characteristic  features  of  the  country: 
and  that  they  were  regarded  with  a  superstitious 
veneration  to  a  late  age,  appears  from  the 
circumstance  of  their  being  represented  upon 
the  Greek  colonial  medals,  struck  in  honour  of 
the  Roman  Emperors.  Allusion  was  made  in 
the  last  Chapter  to  a  bronze  mdal  found  at 
Sicyony  whereon  one  of  these  trees  is  represented 
with  the  boy  Melicertes  upon  a  dolphin. 

The  vicinity  of  these  Ruins  to  the  sea  has 
very  much  facilitated  the  removal  of  many 
valuable  antiquities,  as  materials  for  building; 
the  inhabitants  of  all  the  neighbouring  shores 
having  long  been  accustomed  to  resort  hither, 
as  to  a  quarry  :  but  no  excavatious  have  hitherto 
taken  place.  Persons  have  been  recently  sent 
from  England  to  carry  on  researches,  by  digging 
upon  the  site  of  the  antient  cities  and  temples 
of  Greece,  and  it  may  therefore  be  hoped  that 
this  spot  will  not  remain  long  neglected.  There 
is  no  part  of  the  country  which  more  especially 


(1 )  Archbishop  Potter  observes,  that  "the  use  of  parsley  was  after- 
wards left  off,  and  the  Pine-tree  came  again  into  request ;  which  altera- 
tion Plutarch  has  accounted  for  in  the  fifth  book  of  hb  SymporiaM* 
(Queest.  3.)  A rcJueologia,  vol.  I.  c.  $5.  p.  467.    land.  1 751 . 


ISTHMUS   OF   CORINTH.  581 

requires  this  kind  of  examination.  The  con- 
course to  the  Isthmia  was  of  such  a  nature, 
and  continued  for  so  many  ages,  that  if  there 
be  a  place  in  all  Greece  likely  to  repay  the  labour 
and  the  expense  necessary  for  such  an  under- 
taking, it  is  the  spot  where  these  splendid 
solemnities  were  held.  Indeed  this  has  been 
already  proved,  in  the  quantity  of  medals  found 
continually  by  the  peasants  of  Hexamillia  among 
the  Ruins  here :  and  the  curious  Inscription 
which  Wheler  discovered  lying  upon  the  area  of 
the  temple9  affords  reasonable  ground  for  be- 
lieving that  many  other  documents,  of  the 
same  nature,  might  be  brought  to  light  with 
very  little  difficulty. 

In  returning  from  the  site  of  these  antiquities 
to  Hexamillia,  we  observed  several  tombs  by  the 
side  of  the  old  road  which  led  from  Corinth  to 
the  town  of  Isthmus,  exactly  similar  to  the 
mounds  we  had  seen  in  Kuban  Tahtary.  This 
primeval  mode  of  burial,  originally  introduced 
into  Greece  by  the  Titan- Celts,  continued  in  use 
among  the  Corinthians ;  for  Pausanias,  speaking 
of   the    antient    inhabitants,    says,    that    they 


(a)  See  Whder'i "Journey  into  Greece"  Book  ?i.  p.  438. 

GB0I2  •  1IATPI0IS  '  KAI  •  THI  •  DATPIAI  •  «r.  r.  X. 


582  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  interred  their  dead  always  beneath  a  heap  of 
* v — >  earth. 

As  soon  as  we  arrived  at  tfexamillia,  the  inha- 
bitants of  both  sexes,  and  of  all  ages,  tempted 
by  the  sight  which  they  had  already  gained  of 
the  new  paras,  flocked  around  us,  bringing  car- 
pets for  us  to  sit  upon  in  the  open  air ;  and  a 
S^Mart"  very  curious  market  was  opened  for  the  sale  of 
M^oT™  a  B^nS^e  commodity  ;  namely,  the  antient  medal* 
found  at  different  times  among  the  Ruins  we 
had  visited.  The  young  women  wore  several 
silver  medal*  mixed  with  base  coin,  as  orna- 
ments, in  a  kind  of  cap  upon  their  foreheads, 
and  among  their  hair.  These  they  were  not  very 
willing  to  dispose  of ;  but  the  temptation  offered 
by  the  shining  paras  was  not  to  be  resisted,  and 
we  bought  almost  all  we  saw.  The  bronze 
coins  were  in  great  number :  but  we  obtained 
many  very  curious  medals  in  silver  ;  and  among 
these,  the  most  antient  of  the  city  of  Corinth,  in 
rude  globular  forms,  exhibiting  the  head  of 
Pallas  in  front,  within  a  square  indented  cavity ; 
and  upon  their  obverse  sides,  those  antique 
figures  of  Pegasus,  in  which  the  wings  of  the 
horse  are  inflected  towards  the  mane.  The 
medals  with  this  die  have  been  sometimes  con- 
founded with  those  of  Sicily;  but  we  obtained 


\ 

\ 


\ 


\ 


CORINTH.  583 

one  on  which  appeared,  in  Roman  characters, 
the  letters  cor.  One  of  the  most  curious 
things  which  we  noticed  among  our  acquisi~ 
tions,  was  an  antient  forgery ;  a  base  coin  of 
Corinth,  made  of  brass,  and  silvered  over.  The 
others  consisted  of  silver  and  bronze  medals,  of 
Alexander  the  Great ;  of  Phocis ;  of  Tanagra  in 
Bcsotia;  oiMegara;  of  A  lea  in  Arcadia ;  Argos; 
Sicyon;  JEgina ;  and  Chalcis;  together  with  * 
few  Roman  coins,  and  some  of  less  note.  We 
were  surprised  by  not  finding  among  them  any 
of  Athens  ;  which  are  common  enough  elsewhere. 
When  we  had  concluded  our  business  in  Hexa- 
mUlia,  we  returned  again  to  Corinth ;  and  saw, 
in  our  road,  the  remains  of  some  buildings, 
evidently  Moman,  from  the  appearance  of  the 
opus  reticulatum  in  the  masonry :  among  these 
was  the  Ruin  of  a  large  structure,  which  seemed 
to  have  been  an  aqueduct. 

It  was  late  when  we  reached  our  quarters. 
Two  of  the  Levant  Consuls  sate  with  us  during 
the  evening.  Their  uniform  combines,  in  aj)^^ 
singular  manner,  the  habits  of  Eastern  and^^*1 
Western  nations :  it  is  a  long  dress,  with  a 
three-cornered  hat,  a  bag-wig,  and  an  anchor 
on  the  button  of  the  hat. 


i 


584  PELOPONNESUS. 

On  Sunday,  November  the  fifteenth,  there  was 
a  fair  in   Corinth.      We    saw    nothing    worth 

Hon.  notice,  except  an  Arcadian  pipe,  upon  which  a 
shepherd  was  playing  in  the  streets.  It  was 
perfectly  Pandcean ;  consisting  simply  of  a  goat's 
horn,  with  five  holes  for  the  fingers,  and  a 
small  aperture  at  the  end  for  the  mouth.  It  is 
exceedingly  difficult  to  produce  any  sound  what- 
ever from  this  small  instrument ;  but  the  shep- 
herd made  the  air  resound  with  its  shrill  notes : 
and  we  bought  his  pipe.  This  day  we  left 
Corinth  entirely.  The  Bey  positively  refused  to 
allow  us  to  proceed  by  land  to  Megara :  we 
therefore  engaged  with  a  couple  of  men  who 
had  a  boat  stationed  in  the  harbour  of  Cenckrem, 
to  take  us  along  the  coast.  In  our  way  to  that 
harbour,  we  again  visited  the  village  of  Hexa- 
millia ;  and,  after  passing  the  same,  we  per- 
ceived that  the  Stone  Quarries,  the  remains  of 
the  Isthmian  Wall,  and  of  the  Town  of  Isthmus 
at  its  eastern  extremity,  are  seen  forming  a  high 
ridge  upon  the  left  hand,  parallel  to  the  moun- 
tains upon  the  right.      The  Remains  at  Cen- 

Cenchre*.  cHREiE  faithfully  correspond  with  the  descrip- 
tion  given  by  Pausanias  of  the  place1.      We 

(1)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinth,  c.  2.  p.  114.    ed.  Kuhn. — The  place  U 
now  called  by  its  antient  name,  pronounced  Cenehru 


ISTHMUS   OF   CORINTH.  585 

visited  the  Bath  of  Helen :  it  is  formed   by  a  chap. 
spring,  which  here  boils  up  with  force  enough    wyJ 
to  turn  a  mill  close  to  the  sea.     We  found  no  muZ 
difference  of  temperature,  whether  the  thermo- 
meter were  placed  in  the  water  of  this  spring, 
or  in  the  sea,  or  exposed  in  the  shade  to  the 
air  of  the  atmosphere  at  mid-day.     The  three 
trials  gave  exactly   the   same  result ; —  64°  of 
Fahrenheit.      The  men  we  had  hired  did  not 
return  from   the    fair :    so,  after    waiting    for 
some  time,  we  procured  another  boat,  and  went 
to  a  village,  the  name  of  which  was  pronounced 
Convangef,  where  we  passed  the  night.     The  Convange*. 
next    morning,     at    sun-rise,    we     embarked 
again.    The  wind  proved  contrary.     We  landed 
and  reached  a  miserable  hamlet,  consisting  only 
of  six  houses,  called   Carneta  or  Canetto,  upon 
the  site  of  the  antieat  Cromyon.     Its  wretched  Cnm^on' 
inhabitants,    a    set    of   sickly-looking    people, 
in  the  midst  of  very  bad  air,  had  never  seen  a 
glove,  and  expressed  the  utmost  astonishment  at 
seeing  a  person  take  one  off  his  hand.     Notwith- 
standing the  insalubrity  of  the  situation,  and  the 
unhealthy  looks  of  the   people,   there  was   no 


(9)  This,  in  all  probability,  it  very  remote  from  the  manner  in 
which  this  word  ought  to  be  written.  If  it  be  a  Greek  name,  the  V  la 
always  p. 


586  PBLOPOHNESU*. 

chap,  appearance  of  poverty  or  misery  within  their  cot- 
tages. The  houses,  like  those  of  the  Albanians 
in  general,  were  very  neat,  although  the  cattle 
lodged  with  their  owners  beneath  the  same 


Kanom    The  resemblance  which  the  Albanians  bear  to 
ofthe  Pea- 
ts,      the  Highlanders  of  Scotland,  in  their  dress,  habits, 


and  mode  of  life,  is  said  to  be  very  striking  in 
a  land  which  is  more  peculiarly  their  own1,  and 
where  their  employments  are  less  agricultural 
than  in  the  Morea ;  but  even  here  we  could  not 
avoid  being  struck  with  appearances,  forcibly 
calling  to  mind  the  manners  and  customs  we 
had  often  witnessed  among  Caledonian  heaths 
and  mountains.  The  floors  were  all  of  earth ; 
and  instead  of  chimnies  there  waa  in  every 
cottage  a  hole  through  the  roof ;  but  the  walls 
were  neatly  white-washed,  and  the  hard  earthen 
floors  were  swept,  and  made  as  clean  as  pos- 
sible. Every  house  had  its  oven,  which  was 
kept  remarkably  clean ;  and  the  whitest  bread 


(1)  There  if  an  observation  upon  this  subject  by  Lord  Byron,  ia 
the  Note*  to  hit  deathless  Poem, "  Child*  HoroUt*  Pilgrimages'  "  The 
ArnaouiSy  or  Albanesey  struck  me  forcibly  by  their  resemblance  to  the 
Highlanders  of  Scotland,  in  dress,  figure,  and  manner  of  living.  Their 
very  mountains  seemed  Caledonian,  with  a  kinder  climate.  The  kilt, 
though  white ;  the  spare,  active  form ;  their  dialect,  Celtic  in  its 
sound ;  and  their  hardy  habits,  all  carried  me  back  to  Morveo."  CkUde 
VaroUTs  Pilgrimage,  Notes  to  Canto  II.  p.  125.    hand.  1812. 


ISTHMUS  OF  CORINTH.  587 

was  set  before  us,  with  the  richest  and  most  chap. 
highly-flavoured  honey.  The  fire  being  kindled 
in  the  middle  of  the  floor,  the  peasants  form  a 
circle  around  it,  sitting  or  lying  with  their  feet 
towards  the  hearth.  Their  conversation  is 
cheerful  and  animated;  and,  as  it  was  inter- 
preted to  us,  it  seemed  to  be  filled  with  as 
lively  sallies  of  wit  against  the  faults  of  their 
Governors,  as  it  is  usual  to  hear  among  nations 
boasting  of  the  freedom  they  enjoy.  We  could 
not  hear  of  any  antiquities  in  the  neighbour- 
hood ;  nor  did  we  expect  even  a  tradition  of  the 
Crovtyoman  sow,  or  any  other  exploit  of  Theseus 
in  the  Straits  of  Peloponnesus,  among  a  people 
who  are  not  the  indigenous  inhabitants  of  the 
country.  A  single  black  terra-cotta  vessel,  of 
small  size,  and  shaped  like  a  bottle,  found  in 
some  sepulchre,  near  the  place,  was  the  only 
relic  of  antient  Crotnyon  that  we  were  able  to 
procure. 

Monday,  November  the  sixteenth,  the  wind 
continuing  still  contrary,  we  hired  asses,  and 
determined  to  proceed  by  land  :  being  now  safe 
from  interruption  on  the  part  of  the  Governor 
of  Corinth,  and  relying  upon  the  Albanians  for 
protection,  who  are  generally  considered  as  the 
only  persons  exercising  the  Scironian  profession 


588  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,  in  these  parts.     At  the  same  time,  we  sent  the 
%*w    boat  to  Megara  with  our  baggage.     In  our  road 
we  saw  a  great  number  of  those  pines,  or  pitch- 
trees,  alluded  to  by  authors  with  reference  to  the 
history  of  the  famous  robber  Sinis1 ;  who,  first 
bending  their  stems  to  the  earth,  fastened  his  pri- 
soners to  the  branches,  soJhat  when  the  trees, 
by  their  elasticity,  sprang  up  again,  the  bodies 
tdro*-      °^  *"8  captives  were  torn  asunder.     We  passed 
defile.      under  the  Sciranian  rocks  :  their  appearance  is 
very   remarkable,  and  likely  to  give   rise   to 
fabulous  tales,  if  they  had  been  situate  in  any 
other  country.     They  consist  of  breccia,  which 
here,  as  in  the  Isthmus  of  Corinth,  and  indeed 
over  all  the  north  of  Peloponnesus,  and  in  Attica, 
lies  upon  a  stratum  of  limestone.     The  breccia 
of  the  Sciranian  rocks  presents,  towards  the  sea,  a 
steep  and  slippery  precipice,  sloping  from  the 
narrowest  part  of  the  Isthmian  Strait  towards 
the  Sinus  Saronicus.     It  is  so  highly  polished, 
either  by  the  former  action  of  the  sea  to  which 
it  is  opposed,   or   by   the  rushing  of  torrents 
occasionally   over  its  surface,   that  any  person 
falling  from  the  heights  would  glide  as  over  a 


(l)*E<m&  Iri  rov 'IvQpov  rijc  apxw*ZyO<*o  XyrriiQ  21  Nil  Xop- 
fiavoptvoc  KiTv*v?iytv  Iq  rb  sort*  fffac*  Pmaan,  Corimih.  •.  1.  p.  HI. 
ed.  Kuhnii. 


SC1RONIAN    ROCKS.  589 

surface  of  glass;  and  be  dashed  to  pieces  upon  chap. 
the  "shore,  or,  in  some  parts  of  the  precipice, 
fall  into  the  waves.  The  Story  of  Sappho  has 
given  the  name  of  "  The  Lover's  Leap,"  to  at 
least  a  dozen  precipices,  in  as  many  different 
parts  of  the  world ;  and  this  is  one  of  the 
places  whence  Ino  i|  said  to  have  precipitated 
herself,  with  her  son  MeUcertes*.  Hence  also 
the  old  stories  of  the  dangers  to  which  travellers 
were  exposed  in  the  narrow  pass  above  the 
Scirotua  Saxa,  from  the  assaults  of  Sciron, 
who,  it  was  said,  compelled  them  to  wash 
his  feet,  and  then  kicked  them  down  these 
precipices  into  the  sea.  Not  only  were  the 
rocks  called  Scironian,  but  the  road  itself  was 
named  Sciron.  It  was  said  to  have  been 
enlarged  by  the  Emperor  Hadrian;  but  we 
found  it  to  be  so  narrow,  after  we  had  gained 
the  heights,  that  there  was  barely  room  for 
two  persons  on  horseback  to  pass  each  other. 
A  lofty  mountain  above  the  pass,  covered  with 
snow  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  is 
called  Gerao,  the  antient  Geranicf.  We  had 
seen  it  from  the  Pass  of  Tretus,  near  the  Cave  of 


(S)  Vid.  Pmuaiu  in  Attic,  c.  44.  p.  106.  ed.  Kuk*ii. 
(3)  Wkeler  *ays  the  modern  name  of  Gerania  it  Pal*orxm*u    See 
Jour,  imto  Greece,  p.  430      Ltmd.  1081. 


590  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap,   the  Nemeaan  Lion,  in  oar  journey  from  Mycena 
a^J    to  Nemea.    There  is  a  town  near  this  mountain, 
called  Calaverti.     We  soon  came  to  the  antient 
Paved  Way  leading  from  Attica  into  Peloponnesus; 
and  arrived  at  the  Wall  and  arched  Gate,  high 
above  the  sea ;  where,  in  the  narrow  strait,  is 
Boundary  still  marked  the  antient  boundary  between  the 
Pdopon-  two  countries.     The  old  portal,  once  of  so  much 
hellas.  importance,  in  now  a  ruin ;  but  part  of  the  stone- 
work, mixed  with  tiles,   which  was  above  an 
arch,  yet  remains  on  the  side  of  the  mountain ; 
and  beyond  it,  on  the  side  of  Attica,  we  saw 
more    of  the   old  paved  road.     The  place  is 

KAKH 

skaaa.  now  called  Katche  Scala;  a  modern  method 
of  pronouncing  KaxH  £*<$Aa,  the  Bad  Way. 
The  defile  was  always  considered  as  full  of 
danger  to  the  traveller;  and  it  maintains  its 
pristine  character.  The  Turks  never  pass  it 
without  the  most  lively  apprehensions ;  expect- 
ing to  be  attacked  here  by  banditti.  Ibrahim, 
that  he  might  avoid  this  pass,  had  preferred  a 
tedious  and  turbulent  passage  in  the  boat  with 
our  baggage.  For  our  parts,  we  reposed  so 
much  confidence  in  our  worthy  Albanians,  that 
we  never  bestowed  a  thought  upon  the  chance 
of  meeting  robbers ;  and  they  liked  our  society 
the  better  because  we  were  not  accompanied 
by  a  Turk.     Close  to  the  Sdronian  Gate  we 


ENTRANCE   OF   HELLAS.  691 

observed  a  prodigious  block  of  white  marble*  chap. 
lying  out  of  the  road,  upon  the  brink  of  the  t  '  j 
precipice ;  which  had  been  thrown  down,  and 
had  very  nearly  fallen  from  the  heights  into 
the  sea.  There  was  an  inscription  upon  it,  perhaps 
relating  to  the  widening  of  the  pass,  and  to  the 
repairs  of  the  road  by  Hadrian ;  but  we  could 
only  trace  a  semblance  of  the  following  letters : 

OA 

oiONAiAenNAnio 

At  the  place  where  the  Arch  stood,  was  perhaps 
formerly  the  StiU  erected  by  Theseus  ;  inscribed 
on  one  side,  "Here  is  Peloponnesus,  not 
Ionia;99  and  upon  the  other,  "Here  is  not 
Peloponnesus,  but  Ionia.99  Having  passed  Entrance 
the  spot,  we  now  quitted  the  Morea,  and  once 
more  entered  Hellas1,  by  the  Megarean  land. 

We  began  to  descend  almost  immediately ; 
and,  as  we  had  expected  from  the  frequent 
instances  which  characterize  the  Grecian  cities, 
we  no  sooner  drew  nigh  to  Mega  r a,  than  the 
prospect  of  a  beautiful  and  extensive  plain 
opened  before  us,  walled  on  every  side  by 
mountains,     but    in    this    example    somewhat 


(l)"AbIfthmi  anguttiii  Hellas  incipit,  noitris  Grecia  appellata." 
PHm.  Hi*.  Nat.  Hb.  It.  c.  7.  torn.  I. p.  910.    L.  Bat.  1036. 


592  MEGARA. 

elevated  above  the  usual  level  of  such  campaign 
territories.     From  a  view  of  this  important  field, 
Seeded  ft  mu8t  be  evident  that  the  town  of  Megara  owed 
Jtfeoora.    *t8  celebrity  more  to  its  fertile  domain,  than  to 
its  position  with  respect  to  the  sea ;    yet  it  is 
natural  to  suppose  that  the  inhabitants  of  this 
country  were  fishermen  and  pirates,  before  they 
turned   their   attention  towards  the  produce  of 
the  soil.     Plutarch  believed,  that  the  fabled  con- 
test between  Neptune  and  Minerva,  for  Attica, 
was  an    allusion    to  the    efforts   made   by  the 
antient  kings  of  the  country,  to  withdraw  their 
subjects  from   a  sea-faring  life,  towards  agricul- 
tural employments1.     Be  this  as  it  may :  whea 
both   were  united,    and    the  convenience  of  a 
maritime  situation  was  superadded  to  the  advan- 
tages of  inland  wealth,   it   might   be  expected 
that  Megara  was  able  to  make  so  distinguished  a 
figure  as  she  formerly  did,  in  the  common  cause. 
At  the  battle  of  Salamis  she  furnished  twenty 
ships  for  the  defence  of  Greece ;  and  at  PlaUtc 
numbered  her   three  hundred    warriors   in  the 
army  of   Pausanias.     The  city    existed    above 
eleven  centuries  before  the  Christian  sera ;  and, 
in    the   days   of  its  splendour,    it    boasted   it* 


(1 )  Vid.  Plutarch,  in  Then.  p.  87. 1. 23. 


MEQARA.  503 

peculiar  sect  of  philosophers.     Its  situation  also  chap. 
with  respect  to  Peloponnesus  added  to  its  conse- 


quence ;    being  the  depository  of  all  goods  in- 
tended for  conveyance  over  the  Scironian  defile. 
As   the   traveller  descends   from   this    pass,   it 
appears  upon  a  rock,  which  is  situate  upon  the 
edge  of  an  immense  quadrangular  plain  extend- 
ing towards  the  left  of  the  spectator ;  the  site  of  The 
the  present  town  being  close  to  that  corner  of  it  Town. 
which  is  towards  the  sea,  and  nearest  to  JEleusis. 
Upon  our  left,  just  before  we  arrived,  we  saw  a 
large   Tumulus,  on  which  there  seems  to  have 
stood  some  considerable  monument.     The  place 
is  much  altered,  even  since  Wheler's  time ;  but 
the  inhabitants  retain  many  old  Grecian  customs. 
We  saw  them  roast  a  large  goat  entire,  upon  a 
pole,  in  the  middle  of  the  public  street.     It  was 
from  Meggra  that  Cicero,  in  his  letters  to  A  tticus, 
desired  his  friend  to  send  him  two  specimens  of 
Grecian  sculpture.     Formerly  it  was  famous  for 
its    earthenware  ;    and    fine  vases    have    been 
found  here  by  modern  travellers :  but  we  were 
not  fortunate  in  our  inquiry  after  terra-cottas :  wc 
procured  only  a  few  fragments  of  a  bright  red 
colour,  beautifully  fluted,  that  we  found  lying 
among  the  ruins  of  the  city.     We  had  better 
success  in  our  search  for  Inscriptions :  although  iMtrip- 
it  may  be  said  of  Megara,  (whose  antiquities  in 

VOL.    VI.  Q    Q 


694  MEOARA. 

chap,  the  second  century  occupied,  in  their  mere  enu- 
meration, six  chapters  of  *  Pausanias  description 
of  Greece,)  that,  excepting  its  name,  it  retains 
hardly  anything  to  remind  us  of  its  former  con- 
sideration. The  first  Inscription  that  we  found 
here  was  "  in  honour  of  Callinicus,  Scribe  and 
Gymnasiarch."  It  was  written  upon  a  large 
stone,  twelve  feet  in  length,  placed  in  front  of 
an  antient  gateway  leading  from  the  city, 
towards  the  sea.  This  is  the  identical  Inscrip- 
tion which  Whcler  has  published8 ;  and  we  dis- 
covered it  exactly  as  it  was  left  by  him.  The 
next  is  an  Inscription  which  he  did  not  observe ; 
and  it  is  much  worthy  of  notice.  We  saw  it  at 
the  house  of  the  Archon  where  we  lodged ;  it  is 
in  honour  of  Hadrian,  whose  usual  titles  are 
added.  From  the  title  of  Olympius,  once  be- 
stowed by  the  Athenians  upon  Periclef,  and 
answering  to  A 10  S,  we  are  able  to  ascertain  the 
date  of  this  Inscription ;  which  is  of  the  year  of 
Christ  1324.  It  sets  forth  that  under  the  care 
of  Julius  the  Proconsul,  and  in  the  Proctorship  of 


(1)  Fragment!  of  the  Lapis  Gmchites  mentioned  by  Pausamss 
(Attic,  c.  44.  p.  107.  ed.  Kuknu),  and  resUgea  of  the  "  long  waits ' 
were  obserred  at  Megara  by  Mr.  Walpoie  and  Professor  Palmer, 

(2)  See  Wkeler's  "  Journey  into  Greece,"  p.  434.    ZcmeU  1682. 

(3)  Vid.  Plutarch,  in  fin.  Pericl. 

(4)  Vid.  Corsini  Fast  Att.  Dim.  xi. 


MBOARA.  595 

Aisehron,  this  (monument  or  statue)  is  raised  by  chap. 
the  Adrianida  to  Adrian."  3". 

TONAIZAYTOKPATOPAKAIZAPA 

TPAIANON 

AAPIANONZEBAZTONOAYMniON 

nYOION 

nANEAAHNIONTONEAYTQNKTIZ 

THNKAINO 

MO0ETHN  KAITPO+EAAAPI A 

NIAAIYnO 

TWNEni  MEAEIANIOYAIOYKAN 

A  TOYTOY 

KPAnZTOYANeYnATOYTTPATH 

TOYN 
TOZA1ZXPANOETOYAA  MOK 

AEOYZ 

We  copied  a  few  other  Inscriptions ;  but  some  of 
them  are  already  published8,  and  the  others  are 
in  too  imperfect  a  state  to  be  rendered  intelli- 
gible. The  medals  brought  by  the  inhabitants 
were  few  in  number,    and  badly  preserved6. 


(ft)  See  Wheltr'$  "  Journey  into  Gretee,"  p.  433,  &c. 

(6)  Bronte  coin*,  with  an  entire  legend,  MBrAPEQN,  ere  in  the 
eoUeetton  at  Parii,  exhibiting  the  bead  of  Apollo  in  front,  and  for 
rererte  tLyre;  bot  theie aeemed  to  have  belonged  to  a  dty  of  Sictfy. 
The  medab  of  the  Attie  Mtgar*  exhibit  in  front  the  prow  of  a  Mp; 

Q  Q  2  •■* 


596  m  eg  a  n  A. 

chap.  Ionic  and  Doric  capitals,  of  white  limestone  and 
x*  of  marble,  lie  scattered  among  the  Ruins^uA 
in  the  courts  of  some  of  the  houses.  The 
remains  of  the  "  long  walls"  which  inclosed  the 
land  between  Megara  and  the  sea,  and  con- 
nected the  city  with  its  port,  are  yet  visible ;  and 
within  this  district,  below  the  present  town, 
some  pieces  of  fine  sculpture  were  discovered, 
and  long  since  carried  away*  Here  is  also  a 
Welly  supposed  to  be  that  fountain  mentioned  by 
Pausanias1,  as  adorned  by  Theagenes,  and  sacred 
to  the  Sithnides ;  near  to  which  there  was  a 
Temple,  containing  the  works  of  Praxiteles.  A 
modern  superstition  belonging  to  this  WelP 
seems  to  agree  with  the  circumstances  of  its 
antient   history,   and  thereby    to    identify    the 


and  for  their  obverse,  either  a  Tripod  between  two  dolphins,  or  the  1*100 
Dolphins  without  the  Tripod.  The  author  hut  never  seen  a  silver 
medal  answering  this  description;  but  as  a  proof  that  these  are  medals  of 
the  Attic  and  not  of  the  Sicilian  Megara,  it  should  be  mentioned,  that 
they  are  found  here  upon  the  spot ;  and  the  circumstance  of  his  having 
found  them  in  abundance  upon  the  neighbouring  Isthmus  of  Corinth 
may  be  olso  alleged  as  presumptive  evidence  of  the  fact.  The  olden 
medals  of  Megara  that  he  has  seen,  exhibit  two  Dolphins  in  front ;  and 
for  reverse  merely  a  square  indentation :  and  these  were  found  by  him 
at  HexamUlia  in  the  Isthmus. 

(1)  "E<rr«&  kv  rij  flroXii  Kptjytj  *ai  ofuriv  t^Koid/intrt  Oeayiwnc, 
*.  r.  X.  rai  ft£wp  lc  avrt)v  pet  takovpivov  ZiQviSwv  vvfif&v.  Pausanim 
Attica,  c.  40.  p.  06.  ed.  KuhniL 

(2)  See  Hothouses  Travels. p.  482.    Lond.  1813.    . 


MEGARA    TO    ELEUSI8.  597 

spot;  which  may  be  of  consequence  to  future   chap. 
travellers,  who  visit  Megara  for  the  purpose  of  ^^^, 
making  excavations. 

Thursday,  November  the  seventeenth,  we  began  journey 
our  journey  from  Megara  towards  JEleusis  and 
Athens,  filled  with  curiosity  to  examine  the 
vestiges  of  the  Eleusinian  Temple,  and  over  a  tract 
of  land  where  every  footstep  excites  the  most 
affecting  recollections.  By  every  antient  well 
and  upon  every  tomb  at  which  the  traveller  is 
induced  to  halt,  and  to  view  the  noble  objects  by 
which  he  is  surrounded,  a  crowd  of  interesting 
events  rush  into  his  mind  ;  and  so  completely 
fill  it,  that  even  fatigue  and  fever,  from  which 
he  is  seldom  free,  are  for  a  moment  forgotten. 
As  we  left  Megara,  we  had  a  magnificent  view 
of  the  Saronic  Gulph,  and  of  the  Island  Salamis, 
the  scene  of  the  great  naval  engagement,  where 
three  hundred  and  eighty  sail  of  the  Grecian 
fleet  defeated  the  vast  armament  of  Xerxes, 
amounting  to  two  thousand  ships.  The  distance 
between  Megara  and  JEleusis,  according  to  the 
Antonine  Itinerary,  is  thirteen  miles*  After  tra- 
velling half  an  hour,  we  observed,  in  the  plain 
upon  our  right,  the  remains  of  a  building  which 
seemed  to  have  been  an  antient  Temple ;  and  one 


598  APPROACH  TO   BLEUSIS. 


chap,  mile  farther,  we  saw  a  similar  rain  upon  an 
eminence  by  the  same  side  of  our  road.  The 
plain  here  is  beautiful  and  fertile.  When 
Whaler  passed  it  was  covered  with  ammonia?. 
Another  ruin  appeared  also  upon  a  hill  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  nearer  to  JEleims  ;  and  a  little  beyond 
this,  upon  the  left,  close  to  the  road,  we  saw 
two  Tombs  opposite  to  each  other.  Afterward* 
we  came  to  a  Well,  at  which  our  guides  stopped 
to  water  their  mules.  Soon  after  passing  this 
well,  we  saw  another  Tomb,  and  many  heaps  of 
stones,  as  of  ruined  structures,  upon  our  lefL 
The  Reader,  comparing  these  remains  with  the 
account  given  by  Pausanias,  may  affix  names  to 
them  according  to  his  own  ideas  of  their  coinci- 
dence with  his  description.  An  author  would 
not  be  pardoned  who  launches  into  mere  con- 
jecture with  regard  to  any  one  of  them.  We  then 
began  to  ascend  a  part  of  the  mountain  Kerata, 
so  named  from  its  double  summit,  and  now 
called  Gerata.  We  saw  upon  the  shore  below 
us  a  few  houses,  and  an  appearance  as  of  an 
antient  MoU>  projecting  into  the  sea;  yet  no 
author    has    mentioned    the    existence  of  any 


(1)  Journey  into  Greec*,  p.  430.    Lond.  1682* 


BLBUSIfi.  599 

maritime  establishment  between  the  two  cities  of  chap. 
Meaara  and  Eleusis.  Hence  we  descended  into  the 


Eleusinian  Plain;  spreadingout  with  indescribable  Eieusinia* 

beauty,  as  in  the  instances  so  often   noticed; 

the  surrounding  mountains  seeming  to  rise  out 

of  it :  this  was  that  fertile  land  which  is  said  to 

have  invited  the  first  labours  of  the  plough ; 

and  where  the  first  wheat  was  sown   by  the 

instructions  of  the  Goddess  of  Agriculture.     We 

had  no  sooner  descended  into  it,  than,  turning 

round  the  mountain  towards  the  left,  we  found 

the  distinct  traces  of  a  Temple,  and,  farther  on, 

of  another  similar  structure.     We  observed  9LArTM§> 

of  EleutU. 

tower  upon  a  hill  towards  our  right ;  and,  soon 
after,  we  saw  lying  in  the  plain  the  marble  Marble 
Torso  of  a  colossal  statue,  which,  with  some  dif- 
ficulty, we  divested  of  the  soil  that  had  accumu- 
lated round  it  This  torso  seemed  to  be  that  of 
a  Sphinx,  or  of  a  Lion  :  the  latter  animal  is  some- 
times  represented  as  drawing  the  Car  of  Cares. 
It  consisted  of  the  white  marble  of  Mount  Pen- 
telicus.  Still  advancing,  we  perceived  upon  the 
left  the  vestiges  of  a  Temple,  and  a  Well,  at  which 
women  were  washing  linen.  This  Well  appeared 
to  us,  in  all  respects,  to  correspond  with  the 
situation  of  that  famous  Well,  called  'AvOivov,  or,  JjjJ^ 
the  flowery,  where  Ceres  is  fabled  to  have  rested  w$u- 


600  E  L  E  U  8  I  S. 

chap,   from  the  fruitless  search  of  her  daughter  Pro- 
serpine1. 


Arriving  upon  the  site  of  the  city  of  Eleusis, 
we  found  the  plain  to  be  covered  with  its  Ruins. 

Aqueduct  The  first  thing  we  noticed  was  an  Aqueduct,  part 
of  which  is  entire.  Six  complete  arches  are  yet 
to  be  seen.     It  conducted  towards  the  Acropolis, 

Tggfof  by  the  Temple  of  Ceres.  The  remains  of  this 
Temple  are  more  conspicuous  than  those  of  any 
other  structure,  excepting  the  Aqueduct.  The 
paved  road  which  led  to  it  is  also  visible,  and  the 
pavement  of  the  Temple  yet  remains.  But  to 
heighten  the  interest  with  which  we  regarded 
the  relics  of  the  Eleusinian  fane,  and  to  fulfil 
the  sanguine  expectations  we  had  formed,  the 

8?h*      fragment  of  a  Statue,  mentioned  by  many  authors 

uoddeu.  as  that  of  the  Goddess  herself,  appeared  in 
colossal  majesty  among  the  mouldering  vestiges 
of  her  once  splendid  sanctuary.  We  found  it, 
exactly  as  it  had  been  described  to  us  by  the 


(1)  Wheler  has  placed  this  well  farther  from  Eleusis,  on  the  road  to 
Megara :  and  he  mentions  a  small  plain  which  he  bettered  to  hare 
been  the  Rharian,  as  distinct  from  Eleusis,  (see  "  Journ.  into  Grater," 
p.  430.  Lond.  1G82.)  which  we  failed  to  observe.  The  Plain  of  Eleutii 
is  about  eight  miles  long,  and  four  in  breadth.  Wheler  makes  the 
Rharian  Plain,  "  a  ralley  only  three  or  four  miles  jn  compass." 


E  L  E  I)  6  I  8.  601 

Consul  at  Nauplia,  on  thesideof  the  road,  immedi-  chap. 
ately  before  entering  the  village,  and  in  the  midst   -J^^ 
of  a  heap  of  dung,  buried  as  high  as  the  neck,  a 
little  beyond  the  farther  extremity  of  the  pave- 
ment of  the  Temple.  Yet  even  this  degrading  situa- 
tion had  not  been  assigned  to  it  wholly  indepen- 
dent of  its  antient  history.     The  inhabitants  of 
the  small  village  which  is  now  situate  among  the 
ruins  of  JSleusis  still  regarded  this  Statue  with 
a  very  high  degree  of  superstitious  veneration. 
They  attributed  to  its  presence  the  fertility  of  sopenu- 
their  land  ;  and  it  was  for  this  reason  that  they  {Slbl! the 
heaped  around  it  the  manure  intended  for  their  tent8a 
fields.     They  believed  that  the  loss  of  it  would  be 
followed  by  no  less  a  calamity  than  the  failure  of 
their  annual  harvests ;  and  they  pointed  to  the 
ears  of  bearded  wheat,  among  the  sculptured  orna- 
ments upon  the  head  of  the  figure,  as  a  never- 
failing  indication  of  the  produce  of  the  soil.    To 
this  circumstance  may  perhaps  be  attributed  a 
main  part  of    the    difficulties  opposed   to    its 
removal  in  the  various  attempts  made  for  the 
purpose,  during   the  years  that    have   elapsed 
since  it  was  first  noticed  by  an  English  traveller8. 
With  regard  to  the  allusions  subsequently  made 
to  it  by  other  writers,  as  the  author  has  already 


(2)  Sir  George  Wheler  in  1676. 


602  E  L  E  U  S  I  8. 

chap,  concentrated  every  testimony  of  this  nature1,  it 
will  not  be  necessary  to  repeat  them  here. 
It  is  sufficient  merely  to  state,  that  this  Statue, 
consisting  of  the  white  marble  of  Pentelicus, 
which  also  afforded  the  materials  of  the  Temple, 
bears  evident  marks  of  the  best  age  of  the 
Grecian  sculpture :  but  it  is  in  a  very  ruined 
state.  A  vein  of  schistus,  one  of  the  extraneous 
substances  common  to  the  PenteUcan  marble, 
traversing  the  whole  mass  of  the  stone  in  a 
direction  parallel  to  the  back  of  the  Statue,  has 
suffered  decomposition  during  the  lapse  of  ages 
in  which  it  has  remained  exposed  to  the  action 
of  the  atmosphere ;  and  by  its  exfoliation,  has 
caused  the  face  and  part  of  the  neck  of  the 
Statue  to  fall  off;  but  in  the  Calathus,  which 
yet  remains  as  an  ornament  of  the  head,  the 
sculpture,  although  much  injured,  is  still  fine ; 
and  that  it  was  originally  finished  with  the 
greatest  elegance  and  labour,  is  evident ;  because, 
in  the  foliage  of  a  chaplet  which  surrounds  the 
whole,  a  small  poppy  or  pomegranate  is  repre- 
sented upon  every  leaf,  carved  and  polished 
with  all  the  perfection  of  a  CamSo.    The  remains 


(1)  "  Greek  Marble*,"  Cambridge,  1809.  To  which  may  also  be  added 
the  testimony  of  Perry,  as  given  in  his  "  View  qf  the  Levant,"  printed 
in  1743. 


ELEUSIS*  603 

of  the  Temple  have  been  described  by  almost  chap. 
all  the  authors  who  have  mentioned  the  Statue ;    v*0*/ 
and  its  dimensions  are  given  by  Chandler*.   The 
broken  shafts  and  capitals  of  the  columns  lie 
around  in  promiscuous  heaps   of   ruin.     We 
sought,  without  success,  the  pedestal  believed  by 
Whela*  to  have  been  the  base  of  the  Statue :  but 
we  discovered  the  following  Inscription  upon  a  **"**?" 
marble  pedestal  of  no  considerable  magnitude. 

HEZAPElOnATOY 

BOYAHKMHBOYAH 

TX2N+K/UOAH  MOI 

OA0HNAIONKAAYAI 

ANMENANAPANKAAY 

AIOV*lAinnOYTOY 

AAAOYXHZANTQZeVTATE 

PA  KA  A  YAE  MOZTPATOYET 

rONONAUnPAEArOPOYA 

nOTONONAPETHZENEKEN 

"  In  humour  of  Claudia  Menandra,  the  daughter 
of  Claudius  Philippus,  who  had  been  Torehrheartr 
at  the  Mysteries,  the  Senate  of  the  Areopagus,  the 
Council  of  Five  hundred,  and  People  of  Athens, 
erect  this." 


(1)  Tnvcfa  i»  Grmoe,  p.  ISO.    Orf.  177S. 
(S)j0me7inU>0rMor,  p.4S6«    Lomd.  1082. 


(J04  ELEU8I9. 

chap.       We  found  also  another,  "  in  honour  of  one  of 
x  ... 

the  Eumolpida"  inscribed  upon  the  same  kind  of 

bluish  limestone  which  was  used  for  the  frieze 

of  the  Erecthhim  at  Athens,  and  of  which  the 

Cella  of  the  Temple  here  also  consisted.    The 

stone  being  partly  buried,  we  could  only  read 

the  following  characters : 


•  • 


EY  MOAniAONAYKO  Ml 

AIABIOYENEAEYZINIME  .  .  . 

AAftftNENZA  HQAETHZ 

EYXEBEIAXENEKATHX  .  .  PO.  AX 
«  «  *  *  * 

EMIIEPEIAZ+AAOYIAZAAOAA  ME1AZ 

THZKAEITOY^AYEQZOYrATPOI 

Upon  a  very  large  cylindrical  pedesxal  d 
marble,  before  a  small  church  now  occsjyaf 
part  of  the  site  of  a  Temple1*  perhaps  &&  d 
Diana  Propyl&a,  upon  the  brow  of  ti*e  LL1  « 
fouud  another  Inscription :  this  was  ofaserros  a 
die  same  place  by  Span,  and  it 
published  in  his  work*. 


vly  5i«  tb<  Enfnrou:  ivnt.  Sv^  w.  ~-(&f  hxunai  TCT 
*»  jn:>Ctfihct  it  *Sftf*.  -i»-wi  Mcrh^.*  j.,  I:. 


ELEU8IS.  605 

We   must    now    break    the    thread    of   our  chap. 
narrative  respecting  the  Antiquities  ofEletisis,  by  v^y-w 
a  transition  as  sudden  as  was  the  cause  of  it. 
Having  made  some  proposals  to  the  priest  of 
the  village  for  the  purpose  of  purchasing  and 
removing  the  mutilated  fragment  of  the  Statue  of 
Ceres,  and  of  using  his  influence  with  the  people 
to  this  effect,  we  were  informed  that  the&e  mea- 
sures could   only   be    pursued  by   obtaining  a 
firman  from  the  Waiwode  of  Athens ;  to  whom,  as 
lord  of  the  manor,  all  property  of  this  descrip- 
tion   belonged.      We   no  sooner  received   the 
information,  than  we  resolved  to  set  off  instantly 
from  Eleusis ;   and  endeavour  to  accomplish  so 
desirable  an  object,     For  the  present,  therefore, 
our  observations  must  be  principally  confined 
to  the  subject  of  this  undertaking. 

It  has  been  before  stated,  that  Ibrahim,  our 
Tchohadar,  was  himself  a  kinsman  of  the  Gover- 
nor of  Athens;  the  very  person  to  whom  an 
application  in  this  instance  was  necessary.  This 
man  promised  all  the  assistance  in  his  power ; 
«nd  it  was  agreed,  that  the  whole  management 
of  the  affair,  as  far  as  it  related  to  the  Waiwode, 
should  be  left  to  his  discretion.  We  gave  up  Sudden de- 
the  design  we  had  formed,  of  remaining  for  the  !Ttw  °r 
present  at  Eleusis,  and  set  out  for  Athens. 


606  ELEUSI8  TO  ATHENS. 

cfcAP.      A  part  of  the  pavement  of  the  Via  Sacra  is 
*'      still  visible  after  quitting  the  site  of  the  Temple 


v%a  saem.  0f  Ceres,  and  the  remains  of  several  monuments 
appear  upon  either  side  of  it.    The  great  ruins 
of  the  Aqueduct  are  upon  the  left.    Soon  after- 
wards, close  to  the  road,  on  the  same  side  of 
the  way,  appears  an  oblong  quadrangular  base 
of  some  fine  structure,  consisting  of  large  blocks 
of  white  marble,  neatly  fitted  together.     There 
are  other  works  of  the  same  kind.      Perhaps 
every  one  of  these  might  be  ascertained,  by  a 
careful  attention  to  the  description  given  of  the 
objects  in  this  route  by  Pausankuf.    Soon  after 
leaving  JEleusis,  the  road  bears  eastward  across 
the  Thriasian  Plain,  which  is  marshy  towards 
the  sea ;  and  the  Temains  of  the  old  causeway, 
consisting    of   large    round  stones,    overgrown 
with  rushes,  along  which  the  annual  procession 
moved   from   Athens,  is   conspicuous  in  many 
places.      Here  we  crossed  the  bed   of  a  river 
almost  dry,   and    saw  by  the  side  of   it    the 
vestiges  of  a  Temple.     Another  superb  basement 
appeared  in   this    part  of   the  road,  similarly 
constructed,  and  of  the  same    materials    with 


(1)  *Iov<rt  &  lir*  'EXtv&iva  Jf  'AOtiv&v,  $v  *A9ijvaXoi  koXovciv  o^v 
Upav,  c.  r.  X.    Pausan.  Attica,  c.  36.  p.  88.    ed.  KmhmL 


ELEU8I8  TO  ATHBN8.  607 

that  we  had  just  noticed.  We  also  observed  chap. 
the  Ruins  of  another  Temple,  close  to  the  sea,  v^v^^ 
upon  our  right;  of  which  one  column  yet 
remained ;  and  some  of  the  stones  were  still 
standing.  This  district,  lying  towards  the  bor- 
ders of  Attica ,  in  a  very  remote  age  constituted 
the  regal  territory  of  Crocon*.  But  there  is  a 
circumstance,  connected  with  the  most  antient 
geography  of  these  regions,  which  does  not 
appear  to  have  been  duly  regarded.  It  was 
first  pointed  out  by  a  learned  ancestor  of  the 
author  of  these  Travels :  and  as  it  is  of  im- 
portance to  the  establishment  of  an  historical 
fact,  namely,  the  common  origin  of  the  Goths 
and  the  Greeks,  it  may  be  here  briefly  stated;  as 
deduced  from  his  observations  and  founded 
upon  the  authorities  he  has  cited* :  it  is  this, 
that  the  whole  of  the  Eleusinian  Plain,  together 
with  a  part  of  Attica4,  were  once  included  vutextent 
within  the  limits  of  Thrace,  whose  southern  Thrace. 
frontier  extended,  as  Thucydides  informs  us6,  even 
to  the  Gulph  of  Corinth.    In  the  dispute  between 


(S)  Vid.  Pausan.  ibid.  p.  91. 

(8)  See  the  <' Connexion  of  the  Roman,  Saxon,  and  English  Coins" 
fcc.  by  WUUam  Claris,  M.A.  Zand.  1767.  pp.  65, 66, 67. 

(4)  Ti)v  fitv  'Arrun)?  o\  ptra  E6/i4Xirov  Op?ccf  l<J%ovt    Strabon. 
Geog.  lib.  Til. 

(5)  Tkvcpd.  1.  ii.  c.  *9.  p.  100. 


608  ELEUSIS   TO    ATHENS. 

chap.  Eumolpus  the  Thracian,  and  Erectheus  king  of 
v— v-'  Athens,  the  former  laid  claim  to  Athens1  itself, 
as  part  of  his  father's  dominions.  The  capitals 
of  these  two  princes  were  not  more  than  fifteen 
miles  distant  from  each  other ;  and  there  was 
as  little  difference  in  their  manners  as  their 
situation.  This  appears  by  the  issue  of  the 
war,  which  was  so  amicably  concluded.  The 
terms  were,  that,  for  the  future,  the  inhabitants 
of  both  cities,  Athens  and  Eleusis,  should  be 
considered  as  one  people9;  that  the  religion 
of  Eleusis,  the  mysteries  so  long  known,  and 
so  much  revered  under  that  name,  should  be 
received  at  Athens ;  the  descendants  of  Eumolpus 
being  entitled  to  the  priesthood,  and  the  family 
of  Erectheus  to  the  crown8. 

The  HUH.  Two  streams  of  salt  water,  called  Rhiti  by 
Pausanias,  are  described  by  him  as  the  limits 
between  the  Eleusinian  and  the  Attic  territories. 


(1 )  Hygin.  c.  46. 

(2)  Pausan.  lib.  i.  'Air b  rov  (i.  e.  E6/i6Xirov)  EiffioXwUai  KaXovvrai 
Trap'  'AOrjvaioig.  Diog.  Laert.  in  prooem.  p.  4..  Tkueyd.  p.  496. 
Hesych.  et  Suidas  in  v.  'EbfioXtriSai.  These  mysteries  were  supposed  to 
come  originally  from  Orpheus.  Twv  'Ektwiviuv  rag  nXtrdQ 
'OP*EY2,  avrjp  'Ofywijc,  «fc  rdg  'AOrivag  Uopurtv.  Theodoret. 
Therapeut,  u  Eleusiniorum  sacra  mystica  Orpheus,  natione  Tbrax, 
In  Athena*  importavit/'     See  also  Pausanias. 

(3)  Ibid.    Clarke's  Connexion,  &c.  p.  6G.  Lond.  1767. 


ELEUSIS   TO    ATHENS.  609 

• 

Before  we  .reached  them,  and  near  to  Eleusis, 
we  had  passed,  as  we  have  stated,  the  bed  of 
a  river  whose  dry  and  pebbled  channel  was 
almost  exhausted  of  water.  By  the  side  of  it 
we  observed  the  remains  of  a  Temple  before 
mentioned,  about  an  hundred  and  fifty  paces 
from  the  road ;  and  this  stream  was  doubtless 
the  Eleusinian  Cephissus  of  Pausanias*.  As  we  Efeiufeum 
drew  near  to  the  Rhtti,  the  road  passes  close  to 
the  sea ;  and  here,  upon  our  left  hand,  we  saw 
a  small  lake,  which  owes  it  origin  to  a  dam  that  Salt  Lake, 
has  been  constructed  close  to  the  beach,  banking 
a  body  of  salt  w&ter :  this  water,  oozing  con- 
tinually from  a'  sandy  stratum,  fills  the  lake,  and 
becomes  finally  discharged,  through  two  channels, 
into  the  Gulph.  These  appear  to  have  been  the 
ducts  to  which  Pausanias  alludes  under  the 
appellation  of  the  Rhtti,  which  were  severally 
sacred  to  Ceres  and  to  Proserpine :  and  there  is 
every  reason  to  believe,  that  the  lake  itself  is, 
at  the  least,  as  antient  as  the  time  when  the 
Hiera  of  those  Divinities  stood  upon  its  bor- 
ders ;  else  it  were  difficult  to  conceive  how  the 
fishes  could  have  been  preserved,  which  the 
priests  alone  were  permitted   to  take  from  the 


(4)  Paus.  Attic,  c  38.  p.  03.    ed.  Kuhnii. 
VOL.    VI.  R    R 


610  ELEU8IS   TO    ATHENS. 

chap,  consecrated  flood1.  It  is  hardly  credible,  that  a 
supply  of  this  nature  was  afforded  by  any  of 
the  shallow  streams  which  might  have  been 
found  near  to  this  spot,  struggling  for  a  passage 
through  their  now  exhausted  channels.  There 
is  something  remarkable  in  the  natural  history 
of  the  lake,  besides  the  saline  property  of  its 
water.  Our  guides  informed  us,  that  petroleum 
or,  as  it  is  vulgarly  called,  mineral  far,  is  often 
collected  upon  its  surface ;  which  is  extremely 
probable,  owing  to  the  nature  of  the  sand-stone 
stratum  whence  the  water  flows,  and  to  the 
marshy  nature  of  the  land  in  its  vicinity.  Two 
mills  are  now  turned  by  the  two  streams  issuing 
from  this  lake.  After  having  passed  the  RfUti, 
we  came  to  a  narrow  pass,  skirting  the  base  of  a 
marble  rock  towards  the  shore,  and  cut  out  of 
the  solid  stone,  having  the  sea  close  to  us 
upon  our  right  hand.  This  narrow  pass  was 
evidently  the  point  of  separation  between  the 
two  antient  kingdoms  of  Eumolpus  and  Erec- 
theus*.    Hence,  turning  from  the  shore  towards 


(1)  Aiyovrai  H  01  'PE1T01  K6ptjgUpoi  xai  Aijunrpoc  tlvar  coirovc 
t'x^C  ^€  avr&v  rolg  Uptvalv  lariv  alptiv  uSvoig.  Paus.  Attic,  e.  37. 
p.  91.     ed.  K uhii. 

(2)  According  to  the  valuable  work  of  Mr.  Hothouse,  it  bean  the 
appellation  usually  bestowed  upon  such  passes,  of  Kahe  Scala— 
the  evil  tray.  See  Hothouse's  Journey  through  Alhania,  frcp.  373 
Lond.  1813. 


» 


ELEUSIS   TO    ATHENS.  611 


the  left,  we  entered  a  narrow  valley  by  a  gentle    chap. 
ascent,  which  is  the  entrance  to  the  defile  ofx^^^ 
Daphne.      We  perceived,  that  the  perpendicular  Dcfile  of 
face  of  the  rock,  upon  the  side  of  the  road,  had 
been  artificially  planed,  and  contained  niches 
for  votive  tablets,  as    they    have    been    before 
described  in  this  work.     Such  appearances  are 
always  of  importance  in  the  eyes  of  the  literary 
traveller,  because  they  afford  indisputable  proofs 
of  the  former  sanctity  of  the  spot :  and  although 
it  may  be  difficult  to   state  precisely  what  the 
nature  of  the  Hieran  was  where  the  original  vows 
were  offered,  it  will,  perhaps,  be  easy  to  explain 
why  these   testimonies   of   Pagan  piety  distin- 
guish this  particular  part  of  the  Sacred  Way : 
the  niches  being  situate  near  the    spot   where 
the  first  view  of  JEleusis  presented  itself  to  the 
Athenian  devotees,   in  their  annual  procession 
to  the  city.    This  seems  to  have  been  the  rock 
which  is  mentioned  by  Pausanias,  under  the  ap- 
pellation of  Pcecile  :  in  his  Journey  from  Athens  rhe  j^ 
he  mentions  its  occurrence  before  his    arrival  ^J 
at    the    Rhiti,    and   at  this   extremity   of  the 
defile3.     After  this    we  came   to  a  wall,  which 


(3;  T6  UouciXov  taXovfievov  6pog,  c.  r.  X.    Vid.  Pautan.  Attic.  C.  37. 
p.  91.    ed.KuhniL 

R    R    2 


612  ELEUSIS  TO   ATHENS. 

chap,  is  supposed  to  be  alluded  to  by'  Pausamas  as 

v^n^w/  marking  the  site  of .  a   Temple  of  Venus1 ;  and 

^^ of  presently,    in   the   very    centre  of  the    defile, 

we  noticed   a  large  antient  Tomb%,  and  arrived 

Monastery  at  the  Monastery  of  Daphne,  whose  romantic 

of  Daphne.    #  f     J  r 

situation  and  picturesque  appearance,  in  the 
midst  of  rocks  and  overshadowing  pines,  has 
been  a  theme  of  admiration  amongst  all  tra- 
vellers. Part  of  its  materials  are  said  to  have 
been  derived  from  the  ruins  of  the  Temple  of 
Venus,  now  mentioned.  The  Monastery  itself 
seems  to  occupy  the  situation  assigned  by 
jj"2J£  *t  Pausanias  to  a  Hieron,  containing  the  images 
of  Geres,  Proserpine,  Minerva,  and  Apollo  ;  and 
which  had  been  originally  consecrated  to  the 
last  of  these  divinities*.  We  found  the  building 
in  a  ruined  state,  and  altogether  abandoned. 
Our  Ambassador  had  already  removed  some  of 
the  antiquities  which  the  place  formerly  con- 
tained ;  but  we  saw  some  broken  remains  of 
Ionic  pillars  of  white  marble,  and  other  frag- 
ments    of    architectural      decorations,     whose 


(1)  M*rd  &l  tovto  'AfpotitTTjG  vaog  len,  Kcd  npb  avrov  rfix°C  apyAr 
XiOutv  Oiag  alwv.     Pautan.  Attic,  c.  87.  p.  91.    cd.  Kuknii. 

(2)  Pau$aniat  mentions  the  rafog  of  Theodectet,  of  Phaseliiat,  and 
Mnesithevs ;  and  other  monuments  remarkahle  for  their  magnitude  and 
the  magnificence  of  their  construction.    Ibid.  p.  90. 

(3)  Ibid. 


ELEUSIS   TO   ATHENS.  613 

workmanship  denoted  the  best  age  ofihe  Grecian   chap. 
sculpture ;     and  in   all  the   pavements  of  the  v^v*^ 
Monastery  there  were  pieces  of  the  finest  verd- 
antique    breccia,   some  of  which   we  removed, 
and  sent  afterwards  to  England.    The  remains 
of  a  Theatre  are  also  visible  before  leaving  this 

defile  upon  the  right  hand;  and  as  the  hills  view  of 

ill  •  i  Athent  at 

opened  at  the  other  extremity  towards  sunset,  unset. 

such  a  prospect  of  Athens  and  of  the  Athenian 

Plain,  with  all  the  surrounding  scenery,  burst 

upon  our  view,  as  never  has  been,  nor  can  be 

described.     It  is  presented  from  the  mouth  or 

gap,  facing  the  city,  which  divides  Corydallus 

upon  the  south,  now  called  Laurel  Mountain, 

from  JEgaleon,    a   projecting    part    of  Mount 

Parties  upon  the   north*,    immediately    before 

descending  into  the  extensive  olive-plantations 

which  cover  all   this  side  of  the  plain,   upon 

the  banks  of  the   Cephissus.     There  is  no  spot 

whence  Athens  may  be  seen  that  can  compare 

with  this  point  of  view ;  and  if,  after  visiting  the 

city,  any  one  should  leave  it  without  coming 

to  this  eminence  to   enjoy  the    prospect  here 

afforded  he  will  have  formed  a  very  inadequate 

conception  of  its  grandeur ;  for  all  that  Nature 

and  Art,  by  every  marvellous  combination  of  vast 


(4)  See  Hobhou$ty$  "  Journey  through  Albania,"  Sec.  pp.  370,  371 
Land,  1813. 


614  RLEUSIS   TO   ATHENS. 

chap,  and  splendid  objects,  can  possibly  exhibit, 
v^v^/  aided  by  the  most  surprising  effect  of  colour, 
light,  and  shade,  is  here  presented  to  the 
spectator.  The  wretched  representations  made 
of  the  scenes  in  Greece,  even  by  the  best 
designs  yet  published  in  books  of  travels,  have 
often  been  a  subject  of  regret  among  those  who 
have  witnessed  its  extraordinary  beauties ;  and, 
in  the  list  of  them,  perhaps  few  may  be  con- 
sidered as  inferior  to  the  numerous  delineations 
which  have  appeared  of  this  extraordinary  city. 
But  with  such  a  spectacle  before  his  eyes 
as  this  now  alluded  to,  how  deeply  does  the 
traveller  deplore,  that  the  impression  is  not 
only  transitory  as  far  as  he  is  concerned  in  its 
enjoyment,  but  that  it  is  utterly  incapable  of 
being  transmitted  to  the  minds  of  others.  With 
such  reflections,  we  reluctantly  quitted  the  spot ; 
and  passing  downwards  to  the  plain,  crossed 
^fJj^L.  the  Cephissus,  and  entered  the  olive-groves  ex- 
tending towards  our  left,  over  the  site  of  the 
Academy.  Academy.  If  we  may  trust  the  account  given 
us  by  our  Tchohadar,  there  are  not  less  than 
forty  thousand  of  these  trees ;  the  largest  and 
finest  of  the  kind  we  had  seen  in  Greece1.     The 


(1)  The  most  beautiful  wood  perhaps  efer  seen  in  England  is  that  of 
Athenian  Olive,  when  polished.  A  table  made  of  this  wood  is  in  the 
possession  of  the  Earl  of  Egrenwnt.    It  has  been  cut  from  tome  logs  of 

the 


ATHENS.  615 

air    here    is    very    unwholesome    during    the   chap. 
summer  months,  owing  to  the  humidity  of  the    %J^0 
soil,  and  perhaps  principally  to  its  not  being 
properly  drained.     After  descending  from  the  Return  to 
defile  of  Daphne,   we  observed  a   large  Tomb Ath€M' 
upon  our  left :  and  before  arriving  at  the  site  of 
the  Sacred  Gate,  there  are  two  other  Tumuli ;  and 
the  remains  of  an  Aqueduct  may  be  observed, 
extending  in  the  direction  of  the  Academy.  The 
Tombs    are    mentioned  by  Pausanias,   in    his 
journey  to  JEleusis. 

In  the  evening,  we  arrived  once  more  in 
Athens  ;  and  calling  upon  our  former  compa- 
nion, jLusieri,  were  hailed  by  him  with  the  first 
news  of  peace  between  France  and  England ; — 
a  joyful  intelligence  for  us,  as  we  instantly 
resolved  to  pass  through  France,  in  our  journey 
home.  He  also  told  us  of  the  valuable  acquisi- 
tions, in  vases,  gems,  and  medals,  which  he  had 
made  in  JEgina,  after  we  had  left  him  upon  that 
island. 

The  next  morning  our  Tchohadar  waited  upon  NegotIa. 
his  relation  the  Waiwode,  and  communicated  to  S^tf^ 
him   the  subject  of  our  wishes  respecting  the teode- 


the  oliTe-tree,  intended  at  fuel  in  Athens ,  which  the  anther's  brother, 
the  late  Captain  Clarke,  of  the  Braakel,  brought  to  thif  country. 


616  ATHENS. 

Eleusinian  marble.  After  some  deliberation, 
the  Governor  acceded  to  our  request ;  but  upon 
the  express  condition,  that  we  would  obtain  for 
him  a  small  English  telescope  belonging  to 
Signor  Lusieri.  This  request  opposed  a  very 
serious  obstacle  to  our  views ;  because  it 
became  necessary  to  divulge  the  secret  of  our 
undertaking  to  a  person  indeed  in  whom  we 
could  confide,  but  who  was  at  the  moment 
actually  employed  in  collecting  every  thing  of 
this  kind  for  our  Ambassador;  who  had  pro- 
hibited the  removal  of  any  article  of  antient 
sculpture  on  the  part  of  his  countrymen,  ex- 
cepting into  his  own  warehouses,  as  an  addition 
to  the  immense  Collection  he  was  then  forming, 
in  the  name  and  with  the  power,  of  the  British 
Nation.  Yet  there  was  no  time  to  lose :  the 
Waiwode  might  soon  mention  the  matter  himself 
to  an  intriguing  Consul,  who  paid  him  a  daily 
visit ;  and  then,  (although  the  Statue  were  the 
Waiwode's  property,  and,  of  course,  the  right  to 
dispose  of  it  belonged  exclusively  to  him)  we 
had  reason  to  believe  that  our  project  would  be 
instantly  frustrated.  Accordingly,  we  made 
Lusieri  acquainted  with  the  whole  affair;  and 
our  generous  friend,  disdaining  every  unworthy 
consideration,  not  only  resigned  the,  telescope 
upon  our  promise  of  sending  him  another  from 


RETURN    TO   ELEUSIS.  617 

England1,  but  very  kindly  undertook  to  present  chap. 
it  himself  to  the  Waiwode,  and  persuade  him  to 
observe  silence  with  the  Consul  respecting  the 
measures  we  were  then  pursuing.  The  desired 
firm&n  was  therefore  obtained.  To  complete 
the  whole,  it  was  now  necessary  to  apply  to  the 
Consul  himself,  for  the  use  of  the  ferry-boat 
plying  between  Salami*  and  the  main  land  ;  as 
the  only  means  of  conveying  this  enormous 
piece  of  marble  to  the  Piraeus,  if  we  should  be 
so  fortunate  as  to  succeed  in  our  endeavours  of 
moving  it  from  its  place  towards  the  shore. 
Such  an  application,  as  it  might  be  expected, 
excited  the  Consul's  curiosity  to  the  highest 
degree:  but  after  many  questions,  as  to  the 
object  for  which  the  boat  was  required,  we 
succeeded  in  lulling  his  suspicions;  or,  if  he 
had  any  notion  of  our  intention,  he  believed 
that  all  attempts  to  remove  the  Statue  would  be 
made  in  vain.  A  messenger  was  accordingly 
dispatched  to  put  the  boat  under  our  orders. 
Every  thing  being  now  ready,  we  set  out  again 
for  Elensis :  and  perhaps  a  further  narrative  of 


(I)  Wc  bad  the  satisfaction  of  hearing  that  he  hat  since  received  it 
safe.  It  was  a  very  fine  telescope  made  by  Banuden :  and  it  was  con- 
▼eyed  to  him  by  the  author's  friend,  Mr.  Waipole,  whose  Manuscript 
Journal  has  afforded  a  valuable  addition  to  this  work. 


618  B  LB  US  IB. 

chap,  the  means  used  by  private  individuals,  unaided 
w^/  by  diplomatic  power  or  patronage,  to  procure 
for  the  University  of  which  they  are  members 
this  interesting  monument  of  the  Arts  and 
Mythology  of  Greece,  although  a  part  of  it  has 
been  already  before  the  public,  may  not  be 
deemed  an  unwelcome  addition  to  this  volume. 

Method  The  difficulties  to  be  encountered  were  not 
removing  trivial ;  we  carried  with  us  from  Athens  but  few 
ofCerti!" implements:  a  rope  of  twisted  herbs,  and  some 
large  nails,  were  all  that  the  city  afforded,  as 
likely  to  aid  the  operation.  Neither  a  wheeled 
carriage,  nor  blocks,  nor  pulleys,  nor  even  a 
saw,  could  be  procured.  Fortunately,  we  found 
at  JEleusis  several  long  poles,  an  axe,  and  a  small 
saw  about  six  inches  in  length,  such  as  cutlers 
sometimes  adapt  to  the  handle  of  a  pocket  knife. 
With  these  we  began  the  work.  The  stoutest 
of  the  poles  were  cut,  and  pieces  were  nailed  in 
a  triangular  form,  having  transverse  beams  at 
the  vertex  and  base.  Weak  as  our  machine  was, 
it  acquired  considerable  strength  by  the  weight 
of  the  Statue,  when  placed  upon  the  transverse 
beams.  With  the  remainder  of  the  poles  were 
made  rollers,  over  which  the  triangular  frame 
might  move.  The  rope  was  then  fastened  to 
each  extremity  of  the  transverse  beams.     This 


EL  BUS  IS.  619 

simple  contrivance  succeeded,  yhen  perhaps  chap. 
more  complicate  machinery  might  have  failed : 
and  a  mass  of  marble  weighing  near  two  tons 
was  moved  over  the  brow  of  the  hill  or  Acropolis 
of  JEleusis,  and  from  thence  to  the  sea,  in  about 
nine  hours. 

An  hundred  peasants  were  collected  from  the 
village  and  neighbourhood  of  JEIeusis,  and  near 
fifty  boys.  The  peasants  were  ranged,  forty  on 
each  side,  to  work  at  the  ropes;  some  being 
employed,  with  levers,  to  raise  the  machine, 
when  rocks  or  large  stones  opposed  its  progress. 
The  boys  who  were  not  strong  enough  to  work 
at  the  ropes  and  levers,  were  engaged  in  taking 
up  the  rollers  as  fast  as  the  machine  left  them, 
and  in  placing  them  again  in  the  front. 


But  the  superstition  of  the  inhabitants  ofDlfficllUtoi 
Eleusis,  respecting  an  idol  which  they  all  re- tered- 
garded  as  the  protectress  of  their  fields,  was  not 
the  Heast  obstacle  to  be  overcome.  In  the 
evening,  soon  after  our  arrival  with  the  firm&n> 
an  accident  happened  which  had  nearly  put  an 
end  to  the  undertaking.  While  the  inhabitants 
were  conversing  with  the  Tchohadar,  as  to  the 
means  of  its  removal,  an  ox,  loosed  from  its 
yoke,  came  and  placed  itself  before  the  Statue ; 


620  E  L  E  U  8  I  8. 

chap,  and,  after  buttjng  with  its  horns  for  some  time 
against  the  marble,  ran  off  with  considerable 
speed,  bellowing,  into  the  plain  of  Eleusis. 
Instantly,  a  general  murmur  prevailed  ;  and 
several  women  joining  in  the  clamour,  it  was 
with  difficulty  any  proposal  could  be  made. 
"  They  had  been  always,"  they  said,  "famous for 
their  corn ;  and  the  fertility  of  the  land  would 
cease  when  the  Statue  was  removed."  Such  were 
exactly  the  words  of  Cicero  with  respect  to  the 
Sicilians,  when  Verres  removed  the  Statue  of 
Ceres : — "  Quod,  Cerere  vioi^lta,  omnes  cul- 

TUS  FRUCTUSQUE  CeRERTS  IN  HIS  LOCIS  INTERIISSB 

arbitrantur1."  It  was  late  at  night  before 
these  scruples  were  removed.  On  the  following 
morning,  November  the  twenty -second,  the  boat 
arrived  from  Salamis,  attended  by  four  monks, 
who  rendered  us  all  the  service  in  their  power ; 
but  they  seemed  perfectly  panic-struck  when 
we  told  them  that  it  was  our  intention  to  send 
the  Statue  in  their  vessel  to  the  Piraeus ;  and 
betrayed    the    helplessness    of    infants     wnon 


(1)  Cicero  in  Verr,  lib.  4,  c.  51.  The  circumstances  which  attended 
the  removal  of  the  Statues  of  Ceres  and  THptolemus  from  the  Temple 
at  Enna,  by  Verres9  were  very  similar  to  those  which  opposed  them- 
seWes  to  our  undertaking.— '\ffis  pulchrUudo  periculo,  amplUudo  safer* 
/ui*,  qvdd  eorum  demolitio,  atque  asportatio,  perd\fficil'u  videbatur." 
Vid.  lib.  iT.  c.  49. 


E  LEU  SIS.  621 

persuaded  to  join  in  the  labour.     The  people  had    chap. 
assembled,  and  stood  around  the  Statue  ;  but  no 
one  among  them  ventured  to  begin  the  work. 
They  believed  that  the  arm  of  any  person  would 
fall  off  who  should  dare  to  touch  the  marble,  or 
to  disturb  its  position.     Upon  festival  days  they 
had  been  accustomed  to  place  before  it  a  burn- 
ing  lamp.      Presently,  however,   the  Priest  of 
Eleusu,  partly  induced  by  entreaty,  and  partly 
terrified  by  the  menaces  of  the  Tchohadar,  put 
on  his  canonical  vestments,  as  for  a  ceremony 
of  high  mass,  and,  descending  into  the  hollow 
where  the   Statue  remained  upright,  after  the 
rubbish  around   it  had  been  taken  away,  gave 
the  first  blow  with  a  pickaxe  for  the  removal  of 
the  soil,  that  the  people  might  be  convinced  no 
calamity  would  befal  the  labourers.     The  work 
then    went   on    briskly    enough:    already    the 
immense  mass  of  marble  began  to  incline  from 
its  perpendicular  ;  and  the  triangular  frame  was 
placed    in    a    situation,    that,    as  the    Statue 
fell,9 it    came    gradually    upon    the   transverse 
beams.     The  rope  was  then   cut,  and  fastened 
as  traces  ;  one  half  of  it  upon  either  side  ;  and 
our  machine,  supported  by  wooden  rollers,  was 
easily  made  to  move.     In   this  manner,  at  mid- 
day, it  had  reached  the  brow  of  the  hill  above 
the  old  port; 'whence  the  descent  towards  the 


622  E  L  E  U  S  I  8. 

chap,  shore,  although  among  ruins,  and  obstructed  by 
large  stones,  was  more  easy. 

New  difficulties  now  occurred.     It  was  found 
that  the  water  near  to  the  shore  was  too  shallow 
to  admit  the  approach  of  the  boat  from  Salami*, 
for  the  conveyance  of  the  Statue  on  board ;  and 
the    old   quay  of  JEleusis,   which   consisted    of 
immense  blocks  of  marble  stretching  out  into 
deeper  water,  was  in  such  a  ruined  state,  that 
several  wide  chasms  appeared,  through  which 
the    water    flowed.      Across    these    chasms    it 
would     be    necessary   to    construct    temporary 
bridges,  for  which  timber  would  be  required ; 
and   even  then  the  boat  could  not  be  brought 
close    enough   to  the    extremity   of  the    quay 
to  receive  the  Statue.     Here  the  whole  of  our 
project  seemed    likely    to   meet    with    its  ter- 
mination ;  for  it  was  quite  impossible,  without 
any  mechanical  aid,   to  raise  a  mass  of  marble 
weighing  nearly  two  tons,  so  as  to  convey  it 
into  the  boat.     At   this  critical  moment,  tf  hen 
we  were  preparing  to  abandon  the  undertaking, 
a   large    Casiot  vessel   made    her    appearance, 
sailing  between  Salamis  and  the  Eleusinian  coast. 
We  instantly 'pushed  off  in  the  boat,  and   hailed 
her;  and  the   Captain   consenting  to  come  on 
shore,   we  not  only  hired  his  ship  to  take  the 


E  L  E  U  S  I  s.  623 

Statue  to  Smyrna,  but  also  engaged  the  assistance  chap. 
of  his  crew,  with,  their  boats  and  rigging,  to 
assist  in  its  Removal: /  T-hi#e>. men  worked  with 
spirit  and* skill ;  and  made  the  rest  of  the  ope- 
ration a  ffl^re  ahmswi€gi£\%At- sunset,  we  saw 
the  Statue  s.ta^^edl-at^^tery  utmost  extre- 
mity of  thK"^2r-fiSuf^*^a-;:  *.  v- . 


*r\ 


EarljU^n  the  followiHg  day,  November  the****** 
twenty -thbrdj4#fQ  boats  belonging  to  the  vessel,  taking, 
and  the  Salamis  ferry-boat,  were  placed  along- 
side of  each  other,  between  the  ship  and  the 
'pier;  and  planks  were  laid  across,  so  as  to  form 
a  kind  of  stage, ,  uppn  which  the  Casiot  sailors 
.  might \.work  the  blocks  and  'ropes.  A  small 
cable  ;**s:also  warped  round  the  Statue ;  and 
twelve  blocks  being  brought  to  act  all  at  once 
upon  it,  the  Goddess  was  raised  almost  to  the 
yard-arm ;  whence,  after  remaining  suspended 
.  a  short" time,  she  was  lowered  into  the  hold  ;  and 
the  JBleusinians  taking  leave  of  her1,  the  vessel 
sailed  for  Smyrna.  Having  thus  ended  the 
narrative  of  our  adventure,  we  may  now  con-  . 
elude  our  observations  concerning  the  Ruins  of 

(1)  They  predicted  the  wreck  of  the  ship  which  should  convey  it : 
*    and  it  is  a  curious  circumstance,  that  their  augury  was  completely 
fulfilled,  in  the  loss  of  the  Princetta  merchantman,  off  Btachy  Heady 
baring  the  Statin  on  hoard. 


624  ELEUSI8. 

chap.  Eleusis.  These  have  been  since  surveyed  with 
v^n/-w/  so  much  attention  by  other  travellers,  that  we 
Farther  shall  merely  state  sach  things  as.  may  perhaps 
Bieutu.    have  escaped  their  notice.  „          •• 

Long  It  has  been  suppQSfcdi/fhat  the.//.£cmy  Walls' 

of  Athens,  which  axteficfod  from  the  'Acropolis  to 
the  sea,  and  inclosed  the!  Pirdkeus,  were  a  peculiar 
feature  of  the  Athenian  city ;  but  thi^is  by  no 
means  true.  Such  a  method  of  connecting  the 
harbours  with  the  citadels  of  Greece,  was  a  very 
general  characteristic  of  the  manners  of  the 
Grecian  people,  in  all  places  where  the  Acropolis 
was  not  actually  situate  upon  the  shore.  This, 
for  example,  was  the  case  at  Corinth :  it  may 
also  be  remarked  at  Megara,  and  at  +J$le%isis. 
The  Acropolis  of  Eleusis  is  half  a  mfte  distant 
from  the  harbour.  Between  the  base  of  the 
hill  upon  which  the  Citadel  stood,  and  the  sea, 
this  distance  is  occupied  by  a  small  plain  ;  and 
from  the  number  of  ruined  foundations,  the 
vestiges  of  temples,  and  of  other  Hiera,  all  jover 
this  plain  towards  the  sea,  we  were  inclined 
to  differ  from  Wheler,  and  from  every  other 
traveller,  by  considering  this  piece  of  land  as 
the  identical  spot  called  Rharium  ;  where, 
according  to  the  antient  traditions  of  Eleusis, 
corn  was  first  sown.     The   severe  illness  with 


626 


ELEUSI8. 


chap.  Upon  or  near  to  the  spot  which  is  now  occupied 
n-^v-w   by  a  small  Church  or  Chapel  upon  the  brow 

Temple  of  the  hill.  That  of  Ceres,  built  during  the 
administration  of  Pericles,  by  Ictinus  the  archi- 
tect of  the  Parthenon  at  Athens,  and  mentioned 
by  Plutarch1,  by  Strabo*,  and  by  Vtiruvwf,  was 
perhaps  destroyed  before  the  invasion  of  Alaric, 
at  the  end  of  the  fourth  century  ;  and  even 
before  the  time  of  Pausanias  in  the  second;  as 
it  is  not  mentioned  by  him.  But  as  Phidias 
presided  over  all  the  artists  employed  to  com- 
plete it4,  and  the  marble  of  Mount  Pentelicus 
was  employed  in  its  construction,  it  is  easily 
to  be  recognized  in  those  Ruins  among  which 
the  Statue  was  discovered ;  an  area  or  pave- 
ment, leading  to  it,  being  of  Pentetican  marble, 
and  still  existing  at  the  commencement  of  the 
Thriasian  Plain,  upon  the  western  side  of  the 

EUwit.  Acropolis.  The  antient  port  of  Eleusis  was 
entirely  artificial ;  being  inclosed  by  a  semicir- 
cular pier  of  white  marble.  Going  to  this  port 
from  the  modern  village  (which  does  not  con- 
tain  forty   houses),    along  the   remains  of  the 


(1)  Plutarch,  in  Pericl.  ?ol.  I.  p.  169. 

(2)  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  ix. 

(3)  Vitruv.  in  Praefat. 

(4)  Udvra   £1   Siiiirt  Kai  irdvrotv  £jrfo*oirof  tjv  avr<f  0EIAIA2. 
Plutarch,  in  Pericl. 


ELEUSIS.  627 

northern  wall,  you  come  to  the  ruins  of  another  chap. 
large  Temple,  consisting  of  prodigious  masses  of  «^-v^/ 
stone  and  marble.  Here,  then,  was  one  of  the 
temples  before  mentioned ;  perhaps  that  of  Nep- 
tune, being  so  near  to  the  port.  At  a  distance 
to  the  right  in  what  we  have  considered  as  the 
Rharian  Plain,  is  another  considerable  Ruin, 
a  part  whereof  is  yet  standing ;  and  the  founda- 
tions of  other  structures  may  be  discerned. 
All  this  plain,  between  the  Acropolis  and  the 
sea,  is  covered  with  the  fragments  of  former 
works ;  and  upon  this  side  was  the  Theatre ;  the  Antient 
form  of  which  may  be  distinctly  traced  upon 
the  slope  of  the  hill,  near  the  southern  wall 
leading  to  the  sea.  Upon  the  summit  of  the 
Acropolis  are  the  vestiges  of  the  Citadel;  also Acnpotu. 
some  excavations,  which  were  used  as  cisterns, 
similar  to  those  of  other  cities  in  the  Pelopon- 
nesus. Looking  down  upon  the  great  Thriasian 
Plain  from  the  top  of  this  rock  (whose  shape  is 
an  oblong  parallelogram,  lying  nearly  parallel 
to  the  shore),  the  back  of  the  spectator  being 
towards  the  sea,  the  remains  of  the  Temple 
of  Ceres  appear  at  the  foot  of  the  north-west 
angle  ;  and  to  the  left  of  this,  in  the  road  to 
Megara,  exactly  as  it  is  described  by  Pausanias, 
in  the  very  beginning  of  the  route,  is  the  Well 

s  s  2 


628  RETURN    TO     ATHENS. 

chap,  called  by  him*  ivOivovt  close  to  the  foundation 
of  some  Hieron  or  Temple.  A  little  farther 
towards  the  left  lies  the  colossal  marble  Torso 
of  a  Lion,  or  of  a  Sphinx,  which  was  before 
noticed  in  our  arrival  at  Eleusis  from  Meqara. 


Brtornto  Having  thus  amply  gratified  our  curiosity 
with  regard  to  the  remains  of  this  remarkable 
city,  and  accomplished  the  object  of  our  wishes 
by  the  removal  of  the  Statue  of  Ceres,  we  re- 
turned in  high  spirits  to  Athens,  to  prepare  for  a 
journey  through  Bgsotia,  Phocis,  Thessaly, 
Pieria,  Macedonia,  and  Thrace,  to  Constanti- 
nople. 


(1)  'Eripa  ik  6ibc  l£  'BXivtrivoc  Tpbc  Msyapa  dytu  Tavnjv 
IpXOiikvoiQTtjv  btibvy  tpiapk(rriv  dvQivov  KaXovfuvov.  Pausan.  Attica, 
c.  39.  p.  94.  ed.  Kuhniu 


APPENDIX. 


APPENDIX. 


No.  I. 
TEMPERATURE  of  the  ATMOSPHERE, 

ACCORD1NO  TO 

DIURNAL  OBSERVATION; 

WITH 

A   CORRESPONDING  STATEMENT  OF  TEMPERATURE  IN  ENGLAND 

During  the  same  Period : 

THE   LATTER  BEIN0  EXTRACTED  FROM  A  REGISTER   KEPT  IN  THE   APARTMENTS  OP  TBI   ROYAL. 
SOCIETY  OP   LONDON,   BT   ORDER  OP  THE  PR  ESI  DENT  AND  COUNCIL. 


N.B.  The  Observations  during  the  Journey  toere  alwayn  made  at  Noon  ;  thou  of  the 
Royal  Society  at  Two  P.  v.;  and  both  on  the  Scale  of  Fahrenheit. 


Obeerration  on  the 
Scale  of  Fahrenheit 

Where  made. 

Obterratton  In  London 
When  made.       on  the  same  day. 

82° 

Acre,  in  Syria,  N.  lat.  32°. 

57' July  17. 

66 

82 

Acre, 

July  18. 

69 

83 

Acre, 

July  19. 

77 

83 

Acre, 

July  20. 

73 

82 

At  sea,  off  Mount  Carmel, 

July  21. 

79 

81 

At  sea,     N.  lat.  33°.  24'. 

July  22. 

79 

81 

At  sea,    N.  lat,  33°.  48'. 

July  23. 

72 

81 

At  sea,     N.  lat  33°.  40'. 

July  24. 

C9 

032 

APPENDIX, 

p  *w. 

I. 

Obeerratlon  on  the 
Scale  of  Fahrenheit 

Where  made. 

Ooterraikm  la  London 
When  made.       on  the  tame  day. 

81 

At  sea,     N.  lat. 

33°, 

,6\ 

July  25. 

71 

81 

At  sea,     N.  lat. 

31°. 

32'. 

July  26. 

76 

81 

At  sea,     N.  lat. 

31°. 

47'. 

July  27. 

72 

80 

At  sea,     N.  lat. 

31°. 

59'. 

July  28. 

68 

81 

At  sea,     N.  lat. 

32°. 

4'. 

July  29. 

66 

81 

At  sea,     N.  lat.  32°. 

July  SO. 

74 

82 

At  sea,     N.  lat. 

31°. 

40'. 

July  31. 

72 

81 

r  Off  the  mouths  of  the  Nile 
I          N.  lat.  31°.  40'. 

'  V  August   1. 

74 

82 

Aboukir  bay, 

August  2 

74    . 

83 

Aboukir  bay, 

August   3. 

63 

83 

Aboukir  bay, 

August  4. 

71 

83 

Aboukir  bay, 

August  5. 

68 

83 

Aboukir  bay, 

August  6. 

72 

83 

Aboukir  bay, 

August  7. 

76 

83 

Aboukir  bay, 

August  8. 

73 

85 

Rosetta, 

August  9. 

68 

92 

Upon  the  Nile, 

near 

Metubis,August  10. 

74 

89 

rUpon  the  Nile,  near  El- 
L             Buredgiat, 

r  August  11. 

76 

89 

Upon  the  Nile, 

near 

Bulac 

,     August  12. 

76 

90 

Upon  the  Nile,  l 

near 

Bulac, 

August  13. 

70 

91 

Upon  the  Nile, 

near 

Bulac 

,    August  14. 

71 

91 

Cairo, 

August  15. 

70 

91 

Cairo, 

August  16. 

70 

93 

Cairo, 

August  17. 

75 

92 

Cairo, 

August  18. 

73 

91 

Cairo, 

August  19* 

74 

91 

Cairo, 

August  20. 

79 

91 

Cairo, 

August  21. 

71 

85 


APPENDIX,    N°.    I.  633 

Observation  on  the  Observation  in  Londoa 

Settle  of  Fahrenheit.  Where  made.  When  made.       ou  the  tame  day, 

90  Desert  east  of  the  Nile,  August  22.  71 
i  Pinnacle  of  the  Greater! 
t        Pyramid  of  Djiza,        jAugust2S.  69 

91  Cairo,  August  24.  73 

92  Cairo,  August  25.  7l 
90  Cairo,  August  26.  69 
92  Cairo,  August  27.  73 
87  Cairo,  August  28.  74 
87  Cairo,  August  29.  76 

86  Cairo,  August  30.  76 

87  Cairo,  August  31.  68 

89  Cairo,  Sept.   1.  68 

90  Cairo,  Sept.  2.  66 

83  Upon  the  Nile,  near  Amus,    Sept.  3.  69 

84  Upon  the  Nile, near  Machallet,Sept  4.  66 
84  Rosetta,  Sept.  5.  73 
82  *  Rosetta,  Sept.  6.  69 
81  Rosetta,  Sept  7.  66 
81  Aboukirbay,  Sept.  &  68 

81  Aboukir  bay,  Sept.  9.  70 

82  Alexandria,  Sept.  10.  66 

83  Alexandria,  Sept.  11.  65 
82  Alexandria,  Sept.  12.  62 
81  Alexandria,  Sept  13.  65 

81  Alexandria,  Sept.  14.  66 

82  Alexandria,  Sept  15.  70 
81  Alexandria,  Sept.  1 6.  68 
81  Alexandria,  Sept.  17.  68 
76  Aboukirbay,  Sept  18.  71 
76  Aboukirbay,  Sept.  19.  69 


634  APPENDIX,    N°.   I. 

Obturation  on  the  Oboarratioo  la  London 

Seal*  of  Fahrenheit  Whan  mado.  When  made,       on  fho  nm  Day . 

78  Aboukirbay,  Sept.  2a  67 

80  Aboukirbay,  Sept  21.  64 

80  Aboukirbay,  Sept,  22.  56 

{Atsea,offthemouthsofthe^  M 

Nile,  }  Sept  23.  63 

{At  sea,  off  the  mouths  of  the")  _ 

Nile,  }  Sept.  24.  61 

78  At  sea,     N.  lat.  33°.  30".        Sept  25.  59 

78  At  sea,     N.  lat.  34°.  50*.        Sept.  26.  6 1 

78  At  sea,    N.  lat  35°.  55'.        Sept  27.  70 

76  At  sea,    N.  lat.  35o.  50/.         Sept  28.  67 

74  At  sea,  Sept29.  69 

74  At  sea,  Sept  SO.  64 

72  At  sea,  near  Rhodes,  Oct    1 .  59 

71  At  sea,  near  Rhodes,  Oct   2.  65 

€  At  sea,  near  the   Island  > 

74  {  Episcopia,  }0ct-   S'  65 

75  At  sea,near  the  Island  Stanchio,Oct   4.  6l 

76  Stanchio,  Oct.   5.  61 

77  Stanchio,  Oct  6.  57 
77  Stanchio,  Oct.  7.  58 
76  Stanchio,  Oct.  8.  58 
76  At  sea,  near  Patmos,  Oct  9.  61 
76            At  Patmos,  in  the  port,           Oct  10.  65 

74  At  Patmos,  Ditto,  Oct  11.  61 
69            At  Patmos,    Ditto,                 Oct.  12.  58 

t  Ditto,  smaller  Harbour  of  7 

75  \  Ditto>  l  Oct.  13.  63 

{Ditto,  smaller  Harbour  ofS 

Ditto,  j0ct' 14'  * 


APPENDIX,  M°.  I.  635 


tmmjlau  on  the  OtifftUoa  to 

sate  of  Fahrenheit.                    When  made.  When  mad*.  oo  the  mm  Day. 

75  At  sea,  near  Naxos,  Oct  15.  GO 
72  Island  of  Naxos,  Oct  16.  00 
72  At  sea,  near  Naxos,  Oct  17.  58 

76  Island  of  Naxoe,  Oct  18.  59 
76  At  sea,  near  Paros,  Oct  19*  54 
76  Island  of  Paros,  Oct  20.  50 


C  Parian  marble  quarries  of  ") 

77  X  MarpeJs,  J0*'21'  « 
75  Harbour  of  Syra,  Oct  22.  47 

78  Harbour  of  Syra,  Oct  23.  53 

75  At  sea,  near  Zia,  Oct.  24.  50 
74  Island  of  Zia,  Oct  2d.  53 

76  Island  of  Zia,  Oct  26.  56 
80  Cape  Sanium,  Oct  2?.  56 
78  Near  Athens,  Oct.  28.  49 
80  Athens,  Oct  2ft  54 

66  Athens,  Oct  30.  59 
64  Athens,  Oct  31.  62 

60  Athens,  Nov.  ].  60 
62  Athens,  Nov.  2.  56 
48  Summit  of  Mount  Hymettus,  Nor.  3.  42 
70  Athens,  Nov.  4.  48 
68  At  sea,  near  JEgina,  Nov.  5.  38 
68  Epi&da,  Nov.  6.  42 

67  Hieron  of  JEsculapius,  Nov.  7«  40 
67  Nauplia,  Nov.  8.  47 
67  Argos,  Nov.  9.  48 

62  Carvati,  near  Mycenae,  Nov.  10.  48 

61  Sicyon,  Nov.  11.  53 

63  Corinth,  Nov.  12.  48 


636  APPENDIX,  N°.  I. 

Obturation  on  the  Obeerotknt  ia 

Scale  of  Fahrenheit  When  made.  When  made,       on  the  aame  Day. 


68  Isthmus  of  Corinth,  Not.  13.  44 

62  Stadium  of  the  Isthmia,  Not.  14.  43 
64  Bath  of  Helen,  at  Cenchrea,  Not.  15.  53 

63  Caneta,  Nov.  16.  55 

67  Eleusis,  Nov.  17.  54 

61  Athens,  Nov.  18.  50 

60  Athens,  Nov.  19.  42 

62  Athens,  Nov.  20.  41 

61  Athens,  Nov.21.  44 

68  Eleusis,  Nov.  22.  41 
74  Eleusis,  Nov.  23.  37 

64  Athens,  Nov.  24.  48 

60  Athens,  Nov.  25.  46 

61  Athens,  Nov.  26.  45 

65  Athens,  Nov.  27.  36 

62  Athens,  Nov.  28.  37 
68  Athens,  Nov.  29.  29 
67  Athens,  Nov.  30.  36 


APPENDIX,    N°.    II. 


637 


No.  II. 


NAMES  OF  PLACES 


VISITED  IN  THE  A  UTHOR'S  RO  UTE. 


N.B.  No  attempt  has  been  made  upon  the  present  occasion  to  state  the  Distances ; 
because  relating  principally  to  Sea  Voyage*,  they  are  not  precisely  known. 


1801. 

July  17*  Acre. 

18.  Acre. 

19.  Acre. 

20.  Acre. 

21.  Sailed  from  Acre. 

22.  At  sea. 

23.  At  sea. 

24.  At  sea. 

25.  At  sea. 

26.  At  sea. 

27.  At  sea, 

28.  At  sea. 


1801. 
July  29.  At  sea. 

30.  At  sea. 

31.  At  sea. 
Aug.   1.  Aboukir; 

2.  Aboukir. 

3.  Aboukir. 

4.  Aboukir. 

5.  Aboukir. 

6.  Aboukir. 
7«  Aboukir. 

8.  Voyage  to  the  Nile. 

9.  Rosetta. 


638 


APPENDIX,    N°.    II. 


1801. 
Aug,\Q.  Upon  the  Nile. 

1 1.  Upon  the  Nile1. 

12.  Cairo. 

13.  Cairo. 

14.  Cairo. 

15.  Cairo. 

16.  Cairo. 

17.  Cairo, 

18.  Cairo. 
19'  Cairo. 

20.  Cairo. 

21.  Cairo. 

22.  Heliopolis. 

23.  Pyramids  of  Djiza. 

24.  Cairo. 

25.  Cairo, 

26.  Cairo. 

27.  Sheik   Atman,  be- 

yond Cairo. 

28.  Pyramids   of  Sac- 


cara. 


29.  Cairo. 

30.  Cairo. 

31.  Cairo, 
Sept.  1.  Cairo. 

2.  Bulac,    upon     the 
Nile. 


1801. 
Sept.  3.  Teran6,  upon  th 
Nile. 

4.  Se'l   Hajar— Run 

of  Sais. 

5.  Berimbal. 

6.  Rosetta. 

7.  Rosetta. 

8.  Aboukir. 

9.  Aboukir. 
10.  Alexandria. 
U.  Alexandria. 

12.  Alexandria. 

13.  Alexandria. 

14.  Alexandria. 

15.  Alexandria. 

1 6.  Alexandria. 

17.  Aboukir. 

18.  Aboukir. 

19.  At  sea. 

20.  At  sea. 

21.  At  sea. 

22.  At  sea. 

23.  At  sea. 

24.  At  sea. 
35.  At  sea. 

26.  At  sea. 

27.  At  sea. 


(1)  A  voyage  of  200  mile*  against  the  whole  force  of  the  Inundation,  i 
36  hours. 


APPENDIX,   N°.   II. 


639 


1801. 
Sept.28.  At  sea. 

29.  At  sea. 

30.  At  sea. 
Oct.  1.  Off  Rhodes. 

2.  Coast  of  Asia  Mi- 

nor. 

3.  Island   Episcopia. 

4.  Island  Stanchio. 

5.  Stanchio. 

6.  Stanchio. 

7.  Stanchio. 

8.  Stanchio. 

9.  Island  Leria — Pat- 

mos. 
10.  Patmos. 
1 1  •  Patmos. 

12.  Off  Sanios,  Icaria, 

&c. 

13.  Western     Port    of 

Patmos. 

14.  Patmos. 

15.  Icaria — Naxos. 

16.  Naxos. 
17*  Naxos. 
18.  Naxos. 
19-  Paros. 

20.  Paros — Antiparos. 

21.  Paros. 

22.  Syra. 


1801. 
Oct.  23.  Syra. 

24.  Jura. 

25.  Zia. 

26.  Zia. 

27.  Cape  Sunium. 

28.  Sinus  Saronicus. 
29-  Athens. 

30.  Athens. 

31.  Athens. 
iVbr.  1.  Athens. 

2.  Athens. 

3.  Athens. 

4.  Athens. 

5.  iEgina. 

6.  Epiada — Ligurio. 

7.  Hieron  of  iEscula- 

pius — Nauplia. 

8.  Nauplia. 

9.  Tiryns — Argos. 

10.  Mycenae — Nemea. 

1 1 .  Sicyon. 

12.  Corinth. 

13.  Corinth. 

14.  Corinth. 

15.  Cenchreae  —  Cro- 

myon. 

16.  Megara. 

17.  Eleusis. 

18.  Athens. 


640 


APPENDIX,    »°.    II. 


1801. 
Nov.\9.  Athens. 

20.  Athens. 

21.  Athens. 

22.  Eleusis. 

23.  Eleusis. 

24.  Athens. 


1801. 
Nov.95.  Athens. 

26.  Athens. 

27.  Athens. 

28.  Athens. 

29.  Athens. 

30.  Athens. 


END   OP   VOLUME  THE   SIXTH. 


3'